Easily.
Do you think it's worth it to upgrade though? Reading that the 270x is quite a bit louder and also hotter at load. Not a huge deal..but I don't want it to be super loud or something. Can't decide..
Easily.
If you're not losing money on it and you're not worried by the slight increase in power consumption, why not? Your R4 is a quiet case after all.
I'm going to be buying a new video card in about 2 weeks for my birthday at the end of this month.
Current specs:
i5 2500k OC'd to 4.2
560Ti 1GB
8GB Corsair DDR3 1333 RAM
Samsung SSD 240GB
My budget is $300 and I'll be gaming at 1920x1080
There are R9 280x cards on Newegg right now for $320-$340 and I could squeeze that out however, the most recent reviews posted for that card are awful. Post after post of people complaining about artifacting. So I'm scared. The other option I'm thinking of is maybe a 4GB 760. Any recommendations?
3,5k$? holy moly! As long as you don't plan to get 3x 27" monitors and a 2-3way SLI, you should be fine with 1,5k$ and still have a beast of a machine.So I'm about 5-6 months away from building my PC from the ground up (I have nothing, currently), but by that time I'll have around $3,500 to sink into it.
Biggest thing I'm wondering is what the graphics card market will look like.
You want it. Do it. Dooooo iiiiiiit ! Ò_ó hahahttp://www.anandtech.com/show/7873/new-haswell-k-overclocking-enhancements
I want....but I have been spending so much money on water cooling stuff.....my wife is gonna stick my head in the oven like in Goodfellas.
Go for a GTX 770 2gb, 4gig on the 760 isn't worth it.I'm going to be buying a new video card in about 2 weeks for my birthday at the end of this month.
Current specs:
i5 2500k OC'd to 4.2
560Ti 1GB
8GB Corsair DDR3 1333 RAM
Samsung SSD 240GB
My budget is $300 and I'll be gaming at 1920x1080
There are R9 280x cards on Newegg right now for $320-$340 and I could squeeze that out however, the most recent reviews posted for that card are awful. Post after post of people complaining about artifacting. So I'm scared. The other option I'm thinking of is maybe a 4GB 760. Any recommendations?
Intake and exhaust are separate from push and pull.
I'm on mobile, otherwise I'd draw a diagram. But in words, it's about how the fans are moving air. You always want to push the air through the radiator, just as Sky Chief has it setup above. If you were to intake, you would have the fans oriented to the radiator in the exact same way, but above it.
For almost all setups though, you want to exhaust with push.
Do you think it's worth it to upgrade though? Reading that the 270x is quite a bit louder and also hotter at load. Not a huge deal..but I don't want it to be super loud or something. Can't decide..
Sigh, I need to work on not being so indecisive. But yea, bought it. Figured why not. Honestly don't think my R4 is that quiet but I won't mind a little more noise. Thank god for Shoprunner free return shipping
Time to switch all your fans to NF-A14s!
Which fan is this? The link didn't load properly on my phone.lol
Well I don't know about all but I plan on getting this fan and putting it in the exhaust, and moving the R4 fan to the front. I'll have 2 intake and 1 exhaust for positive pressure, which is best right?
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=8593024&CatId=494
Review I read said it's even better than Noctuas fans and its cheaper and in white lol
edit: I might also change the fan on my CM 212 evo to this. Might as well
Which fan is this? The link didn't load properly on my phone.
The Noctua NF-F12 is what I'd recommend for your 212 evo, it's focused flow which is better for heatsinks/radiators.
Here's the problem with the H440 and H100i: the top of the case is really closed off with small vents, while the frame you attach the H100i to is really open, with room for 140mm fans and huge holes for cable management. It's easier for exhaust to cycle back through the frame than to pass through the vents at the top of the case.
I saw straight away this would happen while migrating my build and closed off the top of the frame with posterboard. Sounds ghetto as fuck, I know.
I didn't test without the posterboard, but my max temp is only 3 degrees highers than my old case with it, which I don't think is significant.
EDIT: To be clear, I have an H100i also, and run it at very low speeds (default fans start growling at ~1300 RPM, not sure if it's just me but it's annoying as fuck)
Where is your h100i mounted? At the front? Would love to see a picture if you have one.
It's in the same position as yours. I just blocked these areas:
I need assistance!
I'm really into the hype of Watch Dogs but, until July, I'll be abroad for working with only my laptop and a 360 controller to fulfill my gaming needs.
This is my machine:
Notebook: Acer Aspire V5-573G (Aspire V5 Series)
Processor: Intel Core i5 4200U
Graphics Adapter: NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 4GB
RAM: 8GB
Do you think I can run Watch Dogs, based on the recommended specs released, on a decent way - as in better than Xbox 360/PS3 and close to Xbox One/Ps4?
Well, it isn't out yet, so nobody can for 100% sure say how the game will perform on whatever hardware. But you should be fine on mid settings, maybe even some highs?
It'll at least look like on PS360.
Guess I will just post this here seeing that it is the go-to hardware thread of NeoGAF. I'm building a new rig after quite a few years and I just got my new screen the other day (a Dell S2440L). Might sound weird but up until now I've gone along with my old 17" CRT. I'm out of the country right now, but I got someone to pick it up and give it a try for me. Turns out, they tell me, that it has a stuck/dead pixel of a quite strange kind. I'm told it is black, so one would assume that it is probably dead with no chance of reviving it, but somehow when using JScreenFix they can see it lighting up (on hindsight I should have asked whether intermitently or continuously). As soon as you stop the program though, it goes back to black.
Has anyone had a stuck pixel like this before? And any particular advice?
There are R9 280x cards on Newegg right now for $320-$340 and I could squeeze that out however, the most recent reviews posted for that card are awful. Post after post of people complaining about artifacting. So I'm scared. The other option I'm thinking of is maybe a 4GB 760. Any recommendations?
Yeah, I've been able to play recent games on high settings but the specs released seem to be demanding and we all know how Ubi is with PC ports...
If I am able to run the game on 1366 x 768 with a good framerate, I'll dive into it as it will be enough for me not to double dip with console then.
Guess I will just post this here seeing that it is the go-to hardware thread of NeoGAF. I'm building a new rig after quite a few years and I just got my new screen the other day (a Dell S2440L). Might sound weird but up until now I've gone along with my old 17" CRT. I'm out of the country right now, but I got someone to pick it up and give it a try for me. Turns out, they tell me, that it has a stuck/dead pixel of a quite strange kind. I'm told it is black, so one would assume that it is probably dead with no chance of reviving it, but somehow when using JScreenFix they can see it lighting up (on hindsight I should have asked whether intermitently or continuously). As soon as you stop the program though, it goes back to black.
Has anyone had a stuck pixel like this before? And any particular advice?
Does anyone know the maximum wattage an average DVD drive pulls?
That's weird. It is essentially a 7970 after all, and those have been around for a while. Are those reviews of all of them in general or just from a particular manufacturer...?
Hmmmmmmm interesting.Here's the problem with the H440 and H100i: the top of the case is really closed off with small vents, while the frame you attach the H100i to is really open, with room for 140mm fans and huge holes for cable management. It's easier for exhaust to cycle back through the frame than to pass through the vents at the top of the case.
I saw straight away this would happen while migrating my build and closed off the top of the frame with posterboard. Sounds ghetto as fuck, I know.
I didn't test without the posterboard, but my max temp is only 3 degrees highers than my old case with it, which I don't think is significant.
EDIT: To be clear, I have an H100i also, and run it at very low speeds (default fans start growling at ~1300 RPM, not sure if it's just me but it's annoying as fuck)
I see you have a Formula V, yes?Okay, that seems like a good idea
Yes, this is correct with every fan I know of.I am almost 100% the fans are in a push setup. The fan side, without any obstruction, sucks air in, while the other side, with arms support, push air out.
The reviews I read were of one particular card. The cheapest one at newegg right now is $319 and it's an Asus card. Seriously like the first page and a half solid of reviews are people complaining about artifacting issues.
$319 is stretching my budget to the max for a video card and the Asus card is the only R9 280x I can squeeze under my budget. I'll look at some of the other recommendations people have posted though. The gtx 770 2GB card looks like a possibility also.
I think I have everything fairly well locked in, but GPU's continue to baffle me.
Let's say I have a ballpark of around $300 with a little wiggle room on either side. I want to go Nvidia.
Is it better to get a 4GB 760 card or a 2GB 770 card? I will be running a single monitor setup if that matters.
I think I have everything fairly well locked in, but GPU's continue to baffle me.
Let's say I have a ballpark of around $300 with a little wiggle room on either side. I want to go Nvidia.
Is it better to get a 4GB 760 card or a 2GB 770 card? I will be running a single monitor setup if that matters.
770.
Completely stupid questions but I figure someone has an easy answer.I'm looking to pickup a 256gb SSD this afternoon. Any major difference between these brands - Samsung 840 Pro, ADATA SX900 or Sandisk Ultra Plus?
All the read/write speeds seem to be within 50 mb of each other. Prices are all about the same too. Any brand that's more reliable then the next?
How do you know whether a video card will be compatible with your computer? Is it based off your motherboard? I want to upgrade my video card but I don't know how to start.
I'm confused what you are saying here. I just compared the two on PC Parts Picker and that 660ti is a lot more expensive than a R9 270 is....why are you comparing those two?
You can get a Twin Frozr R9 270 for $179.99....and the cheapest 660ti is 239.99...Did you mean the vanilla 660 and not the TI...?
He could actually get a R9 270X for that much, which would beat the 660ti performance wise. To be frank...Nvidia is just not competitive price/performance wise in a lot of these price ranges.
I know the internets hates hearing this right now....because "my brothers roommates cousins neighbor had an ATI card in 1999 and it might have had driver problems....so I won't consider a completely different company staffed with completelydifferent people decades later." But on price/performance AMD GPUs are the price/performance winners at most price ranges now that the mining craze has subsided.
How do you know whether a video card will be compatible with your computer? Is it based off your motherboard? I want to upgrade my video card but I don't know how to start.
I'd recommend either an EVGA ACX like you've posted or a Gigabyte WindforceThanks for the tips!
Looking at 770 cards. Is the EVGA GeForce GTX770 Superclocked a good choice in terms of cards?
Anything I should know before going with it?
What PSU (Power Supply) do you have?
Edit: Also, what are your current specs?
PSU Corsair CX 500M 500W
MB MSI 970A-G46 AMD 970 950 AM3 + R
CPU AMD 6 Core FX-6300 3.5G 8M R
SAPPHIRE HD 5870 2G VAPOR-X
SSD 128G Samsung
MEM 4Gx2 GSKILL F3
CPUCOOL ARCTIC FREEZER
With that PSU, you could probably get an R9 270X (Can be found for ~$199, but I think TigerDirect has the XFX on sale for $159 after rebate right now). It's (stock) TDP is about 8W lower than your HD 5870 and the BF3 Benchmark has ~75% increase in FPS and it comes with 2 free games.
You should probably run that by one of the gurus here before buying though because I've heard conflicting opinions about that PSU...
A better GPU is going to increase overall framerates, but if you are used to experiencing some choppiness, stuttering, or general slowdows, that will not be fixed until you swap out the proc/mobo. I only say this to temper expectations of what a GPU upgrade will bring.Cool, thanks for the recommendation. Does anyone else have any thoughts on this. I don't have an issue spending 250-300 for the right card.
A better GPU is going to increase overall framerates, but if you are used to experiencing some choppiness, stuttering, or general slowdows, that will not be fixed until you swap out the proc/mobo. I only say this to temper expectations of what a GPU upgrade will bring.
That being said, I think the GTX 760 would be a great fit for your build at $250.
Cool, thanks for the recommendation. Does anyone else have any thoughts on this. I don't have an issue spending 250-300 for the right card.
Hey guys,
I need feedback for building a relatively portable gaming desktop for my buddy in college. Budget for everything is ~1000-1200 dollars.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H87N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($110.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($114.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($259.99 @ Amazon)
Case: BitFenix Phenom Midnight Black Mini ITX Tower Case ($79.99 @ TigerDirect)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($149.00 @ B&H)
Total: $1079.91