The 780 reference or the evga Acx are both cool and quiet without taking up extra room.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
As a follow up about fan selection I've just found this article which seems reasonably thorough.
It's worth bearing in mind that each fan has a slightly different sound signature within that db reading, so it may be worth watching youtube videos to see which hum bothers you the least!
It's worth bearing in mind that each fan has a slightly different sound signature within that db reading, so it may be worth watching youtube videos to see which hum bothers you the least!
4790K won't be out this week, TMK it was releasing around Computex.
No.
Send it back and get an H60
Buuut, always always always push. So, have them pushing out of the top of your case. Make sure you have other intake fans that pass the total CFM of those when obstructed for overall positive pressure though.
They're pretty great for case fans, but definitely don't pick a heatsink/radiator fan based on that data.
Of course not! The post I referenced when I was talking about static pressure fans was yours
Way to make me feel bad about my push/pull NF-F12s on my hyper 212 by the way
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Can you buy those coolers separately?
You're looking for a specific aftermarket cooler for your 680? I don't think there are any that will fit in your FT03 Mini.
SorryOf course not! The post I referenced when I was talking about static pressure fans was yours
Way to make me feel bad about my push/pull NF-F12s on my hyper 212 by the way
Noctua are great fans, but they're just overpriced. Nothing to regret other than maybe a little extra money lost.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
:[
Not a specific one, Just one that is quieter. My build will be two years old in a few months and I want to do some detailing/upgrading.
I'm just looking for any cooler that will be quieter than the reference blower I have in there. It works fine, but it can get a bit loud under duress. I'm not opposed to watercooling but that would be some AAA-pro-level-break-out-the-dremel type shit.
Second question: can you run a raid array through esata ports?
My small motherboard has some funkiness to it. I have
- two6gpbs Sata ports,
- two 3gbps sata ports and
- two 3gbps esata ports.
Currently I have 2 Samsung SSDs in Raid0 on the 6gbps slots, and a bluray drive on one of the 3gbps slots.
This leaves me with one internal sata slot and two esata slots. Whats the best way to make this work for me? Is it possible to hook the bluray drive up to an esata slot with an adapter? I would like to get two more SSDs in another RAID hooked up.
SneakyStephan
Banned
Bought the antec tricool fan instead of the coolermaster one.
Same as my old one, it's not inaudible but it makes the same noise and is pretty quiet so w/e I'm used to it. I didn't want to deal with the potentially much worse coolermaster one.
Going to a brand new hard drive after limping along with my broken damaged sectors ticking and rattling spinpoint f1 for 1.5 years out of sheer stubborness (I refused to pay more than 50 euros for a HDD with the stupid price inflation after the floods and it took until now for prices to return to pre flood baseline) is so great.
No more ticking, clicking and rattling noise, boot up in under a minute, everything opens instantly again.
That brand new PC feel without actually buying a new pc.
For once I decided to not be an idiot and actually make a seperate boot partition too, so I can actually format without having to back up all my shit now ...
Something I neglected to do with my previous 2 hard drives
Anyone here own an antec sonata III case?
If so maybe you can help me:
While looking in the manual for the first time ever (was making sure I hooked the fan up right) I discovered it actually has a dust filter in the front hidden behind the front panel...
How on earth do you remove the front panel to access to filter without removing the DVD drive as well? (which for some reason won't come out,all the drive bays use a simple convenient slide rail with 2 clamps that you can move to loosen them, but the dvd one won't come loose, the other ones go easy I didn't want to force it)
The front panel is held on by 6 plastic clamps inside the case that you have to unlock to get it off; But the 6th one is located directly next to the top drive bay on the right side of the case (not the side where you take the panel off to open the case)
It seems really silly that you'd have to remove any drives in the frontal drive bays just to get access to that clamp just to remove the washable filter (which I noticed through the gap has about half a cm of dust clogging it up), especially since the manual recommends cleaning the filter out every other month.
Surely they didn't make it such a pain to access
Same as my old one, it's not inaudible but it makes the same noise and is pretty quiet so w/e I'm used to it. I didn't want to deal with the potentially much worse coolermaster one.
Going to a brand new hard drive after limping along with my broken damaged sectors ticking and rattling spinpoint f1 for 1.5 years out of sheer stubborness (I refused to pay more than 50 euros for a HDD with the stupid price inflation after the floods and it took until now for prices to return to pre flood baseline
) is so great.No more ticking, clicking and rattling noise, boot up in under a minute, everything opens instantly again.
That brand new PC feel without actually buying a new pc.
For once I decided to not be an idiot and actually make a seperate boot partition too, so I can actually format without having to back up all my shit now ...
Something I neglected to do with my previous 2 hard drives
Anyone here own an antec sonata III case?
If so maybe you can help me:
While looking in the manual for the first time ever (was making sure I hooked the fan up right
) I discovered it actually has a dust filter in the front hidden behind the front panel...How on earth do you remove the front panel to access to filter without removing the DVD drive as well? (which for some reason won't come out,all the drive bays use a simple convenient slide rail with 2 clamps that you can move to loosen them, but the dvd one won't come loose, the other ones go easy I didn't want to force it)
The front panel is held on by 6 plastic clamps inside the case that you have to unlock to get it off; But the 6th one is located directly next to the top drive bay on the right side of the case (not the side where you take the panel off to open the case)
It seems really silly that you'd have to remove any drives in the frontal drive bays just to get access to that clamp just to remove the washable filter (which I noticed through the gap has about half a cm of dust clogging it up), especially since the manual recommends cleaning the filter out every other month.
Surely they didn't make it such a pain to access
They're releasing the NF-F12s under the "Industrial" grey theme, I thought?Yeah I can live with that
It's a shame that the Noiseblockers are discontinued. Are they looking to release a new revision or anything? It seems strange to not sell such a highly regarded and popular product!
I can't think of a way to do anything, because almost every aftermarket cooler for your card takes up 2.5 or more slots, which your case doesn't have enough room for. Even the ad-hoc watercooling kits like the NZXT... (I forget the name, something similar to Kraken I think) have large enclosures to house things like proper sized fans.
Not to be a dick, but I did point this issue out in the SFF guide, and warned you in particular
In terms of what kind of RAID support you have, RTFM for your motherboard.
Oh sorry, it's not the noiseblockers which were discontinued, it was the gentle typhoons!
That's what I meant, are they making a new version of those at all?
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
I've actually read my Mobo manual cover to cover! I have a p8z77i deluxe or whatevs.
It has really great raid support, I just for some reason was questioning whether or not you could raid drives from an esata slot. I guess I don't see why it would make a difference since its just a connector difference. Hmm. Fun.
Last night before I went to sleep I pictured getting a PCIe extension cable and moving the GPU out of the case. Which would be ridiculous.
It has really great raid support, I just for some reason was questioning whether or not you could raid drives from an esata slot. I guess I don't see why it would make a difference since its just a connector difference. Hmm. Fun.
Last night before I went to sleep I pictured getting a PCIe extension cable and moving the GPU out of the case. Which would be ridiculous.
Sword Of Doom
Member
Or, you could get a new case that houses everything nicely.
I did just think of something though. You might be able to contact EVGA support and see if you can buy an ACX 770 cooler directly from them. It's two slots, and the 770 is the same thing as the 680.
Derp, having a scattered morning.
Yeah, GTs discontinued, nothing will take their place.
I have the same board. A port is a port is a port. You're just more likely to have interruption/disconnection with the drives being outside of the case.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Thats a good idea! And I'm never changing cases!
Goody Goody. I think I'm going to find a way to move my BRD drive to the Esata slot. Then I can just run my SSDs over the internal ports. I never use it anyway.
I'm also going to route all my external cabling down through the case and out the bottom. Its gonna be hottt.
Think I'm going to take the plunge and look into getting a dedicated 2nd PC for streaming only.
I would only be streaming 720p/60FPS with AverMedia Live Gamer HD or the ExtremeCap U3, so hoping I can keep the cost low for a solid stream.
My Gaming PC can do both right now, but I want to be able to control the stream in the middle of gaming.
I would only be streaming 720p/60FPS with AverMedia Live Gamer HD or the ExtremeCap U3, so hoping I can keep the cost low for a solid stream.
My Gaming PC can do both right now, but I want to be able to control the stream in the middle of gaming.
If you have the Capture Card do the encoding, you shouldn't have to worry about it. But if you want some custom encoding, you'll need a pretty nice processor. You can go cheap on the motherboard though.
I'd even suggest looking at picking up some used parts, like a 2600 and some H67 motherboard.
So I have a Phenom X2 555 BE, a motherboard, a 500W Antec PSU, HDD, and 1GB 4870 lying around - someone at work just wanted to get rid of them and it cost me all of $30 for the lot.
From what I've been told, the performance I'd get assembling it wouldn't even be worth the $100 it would cost me for a case, CPU cooler, and 4GB of DDR3. Say I were to put in another $120 and get an R7 260X to replace the 4870 - would the system be worth the $250 total then?
Digital Foundry said the R7 260X was capable of creating an experience comparable to the Xbox One/PS4, and that's good enough for me, but my concern would be the CPU would be too much of bottleneck. That said, I can likely unlock it to four cores and get a sizable overclock on it, and it's not like the AMD Jaguar in the new consoles is a CPU powerhouse...
Opinions?
From what I've been told, the performance I'd get assembling it wouldn't even be worth the $100 it would cost me for a case, CPU cooler, and 4GB of DDR3. Say I were to put in another $120 and get an R7 260X to replace the 4870 - would the system be worth the $250 total then?
Digital Foundry said the R7 260X was capable of creating an experience comparable to the Xbox One/PS4, and that's good enough for me, but my concern would be the CPU would be too much of bottleneck. That said, I can likely unlock it to four cores and get a sizable overclock on it, and it's not like the AMD Jaguar in the new consoles is a CPU powerhouse...
Opinions?
Encoding will have to be done on CPU, so was thinking of an i5/i7 with a lower end GPU since it won't matter as much.
You can actually just use the onboard graphics. I helped a pal with the very same thing:
http://www.twitch.tv/kudochop
His streaming PC is a 2600 I had lying around from an office workstation and a B75 motherboard. If you need a bit more grunt, even the cheap $40-50 workstation discrete cards would be fine.
Sweet. I use that exact stream settings now, so if it works with the specs on the channel, I'll look at something similar.
AstuteClass
Banned
I'm really stuck here guys. This is my first time building remember, and I haven't slept in over 24 hours now, so really exhausted. Shouldn't be building this PC right now, but anyway...
I cannot figure out how to install the H105 in my Phantom 410. Rad goes on the outside, with the long screws coming from inside the case to hold the rad in place.
Trouble is, fans go on inside and need screws to come from the outside of the case to hold them.
Well obviously both the rad and the fans are blocking each other's screws from being reachable and able to get the screwdriver at them.
I'm probably missing something so simple, but I'm struggling to keep my eyes open here, so can somebody just make me feel like an idiot and blurt out the obvious?
EDIT: I am a first class idiot. As soon as I got posting this message, it clicked like a bolt out of the blue. Long screws go through fans and then into rad. Why I had it in my head that the long screws were as long as the fans were wide, I don't know. I knew I shouldn't have started this build exhausted!
EDIT 2: In my defense, the slightly shorter, stock case fan screws I took out, that look identical to the longer rad screws, somehow got mixed in together! So when I grabbed the shorter stock screw and it was as long as the fan was wide, no wonder it didn't click that you install the rad and fan with the same screw!
I cannot figure out how to install the H105 in my Phantom 410. Rad goes on the outside, with the long screws coming from inside the case to hold the rad in place.
Trouble is, fans go on inside and need screws to come from the outside of the case to hold them.
Well obviously both the rad and the fans are blocking each other's screws from being reachable and able to get the screwdriver at them.
I'm probably missing something so simple, but I'm struggling to keep my eyes open here, so can somebody just make me feel like an idiot and blurt out the obvious?
EDIT: I am a first class idiot. As soon as I got posting this message, it clicked like a bolt out of the blue. Long screws go through fans and then into rad. Why I had it in my head that the long screws were as long as the fans were wide, I don't know. I knew I shouldn't have started this build exhausted!
EDIT 2: In my defense, the slightly shorter, stock case fan screws I took out, that look identical to the longer rad screws, somehow got mixed in together! So when I grabbed the shorter stock screw and it was as long as the fan was wide, no wonder it didn't click that you install the rad and fan with the same screw!
InFamousRaiden
Banned
I been browsing for years but I decided to join.
Hello ! EVERYONE !
A good friend of mine traded me an almost brand new Sapphire R9 290x for XboxOne which was sitting since December. So I decided to build a computer.
I have run into a slight problem of Black Screen and I am quiet frustrated.
The Specs are:
1. Intel i7 4770k 3.5 ghz
2. Asus Maximus VI Formula (Thought the prob was motherboard, upgraded from HERO to FORMULA)
3. G.SKILL TridentX F3-2400C10D-16GTX 16GB 2X8GB DDR3-2400 CL10 240PIN 1.65V Dual Channel Memory Kit
4. Corsair AX1200 i (Upgraded from Corsair HX 750 throught that 8+2 PIN error - Also was thinking about CROSSFIRE R9 290x once base stuff starts to work).
5. OEM WIn7
6. Sapphire R9 290x 4 gb GDDR5 Edition.
(Purchase NZXT G10 + Krakel x60) because I heard the card runs HOT.
Using the rest of the crap from old Gateway computer.
Well I am running into black screen issues and a lot of the people suggest that it is the inconsistent voltage drops that are causing it. The rams by default show up as 1333 mhz frequency in the bios. The plan to build a computer was sudden but I am quiet frustrated. Yesterday I flashed it to Asus R9 290x Bios.
Has anyone ever run into a problem or anyone has any suggestions?
Asus motherboard BIOS has a lot of stuff in the menus. I have tried to take the take the CPU Voltage up to 1.22000 volts and the Rams up to 1.65 volts as suggested. An option mode 2 also gives similar values to timing values which bring up the frequency to 2400 mhz.
I would like suggestions. I have not over clocked the CPU at all. CPU is using stock heatsink and also the Rams are in SLOT 1 and 2 (closest to the CPU)
Hello ! EVERYONE !
A good friend of mine traded me an almost brand new Sapphire R9 290x for XboxOne which was sitting since December. So I decided to build a computer.
I have run into a slight problem of Black Screen and I am quiet frustrated.
The Specs are:
1. Intel i7 4770k 3.5 ghz
2. Asus Maximus VI Formula (Thought the prob was motherboard, upgraded from HERO to FORMULA)
3. G.SKILL TridentX F3-2400C10D-16GTX 16GB 2X8GB DDR3-2400 CL10 240PIN 1.65V Dual Channel Memory Kit
4. Corsair AX1200 i (Upgraded from Corsair HX 750 throught that 8+2 PIN error - Also was thinking about CROSSFIRE R9 290x once base stuff starts to work).
5. OEM WIn7
6. Sapphire R9 290x 4 gb GDDR5 Edition.
(Purchase NZXT G10 + Krakel x60) because I heard the card runs HOT.
Using the rest of the crap from old Gateway computer.
Well I am running into black screen issues and a lot of the people suggest that it is the inconsistent voltage drops that are causing it. The rams by default show up as 1333 mhz frequency in the bios. The plan to build a computer was sudden but I am quiet frustrated. Yesterday I flashed it to Asus R9 290x Bios.
Has anyone ever run into a problem or anyone has any suggestions?
Asus motherboard BIOS has a lot of stuff in the menus. I have tried to take the take the CPU Voltage up to 1.22000 volts and the Rams up to 1.65 volts as suggested. An option mode 2 also gives similar values to timing values which bring up the frequency to 2400 mhz.
I would like suggestions. I have not over clocked the CPU at all. CPU is using stock heatsink and also the Rams are in SLOT 1 and 2 (closest to the CPU)
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Trying to write evga an email that says "hook me up and I'll tell everyone on gaf how awesome you are" without actually saying that. I'm feeling pretty good about my chances though, I am going to be paying money for the cooler.
I'm also thinking that I could cut a window in the front panel of my case. Which is a scary prospect, but it could be really nice actually if I do it right. I'd have a mesh panel cover it for airflow right into the GPUs fan. That could be really nice..
You could even cut a window, add a mesh cover and then mount another piece of solid aluminum hovering like a 1/4 inch over it. That could be seriously cool looking.
I'm also thinking that I could cut a window in the front panel of my case. Which is a scary prospect, but it could be really nice actually if I do it right. I'd have a mesh panel cover it for airflow right into the GPUs fan. That could be really nice..
You could even cut a window, add a mesh cover and then mount another piece of solid aluminum hovering like a 1/4 inch over it. That could be seriously cool looking.
Just go to the EVGA support forums and ask there. They are awesome, which is why they will probably do it for you.
When do you get the black screens?
General stuff:
Put your RAM in the slots recommended by the motherboard manual.
Select "XMP Profile" for the RAM.
Update your motherboard BIOS.
Should have come here before buying, you overspent huge
cyen
Member
The black screen problem is probably related to the 290x, my first 290x had this problem and alot of first batch owners got one with this problem, mainly 290x with elpida rams. Just google 290x blackscreen and you will get your answer. I hope im wrong but i think you should Return it to your friend or RMA it if thats the case.
AstuteClass
Banned
Uhh guys, is there meant to be a slight gap in the tubing of my H105?
It's definitely there, albeit slight. Am I just being paranoid?
It's definitely there, albeit slight. Am I just being paranoid?
AstuteClass
Banned
Yeah I know what you mean, it's just it took so long to fit, and I'm so exhausted it's unreal.
Think I might just go to sleep and finish up tomorrow.
Edit: Also, I've noticed there's some gap in the tubing connected to the rad, too. I think this could possibly be just how it is, but I don't know for sure.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Question: can you buy super high-end bearings for all your fans? Like frictionless NASA bearings?
So recently my motherboard shutdown and would not power on again. I RMAd the board and got it repaired. The repaired board worked for awhile but the pc would randomly shutoff. Finally it shut down and would not power on again. I got a new motherboard today after giving up on the old one but the new board is not working either. When I power the board on the cpu fan spins for a second then shuts off. Could the new board be defective? Or could it be a cpu or ram problem now?(keeping in mind I've had the cpu and ram working fine well before the first problem board)
InFamousRaiden
Banned
Just go to the EVGA support forums and ask there. They are awesome, which is why they will probably do it for you.
When do you get the black screens?
General stuff:
Put your RAM in the slots recommended by the motherboard manual.
Select "XMP Profile" for the RAM.
Update your motherboard BIOS.
Should have come here before buying, you overspent huge
YES, I DID. I ONLY read GAF I am not familiar with other forms and poeple.
Well I wanted to get a CROSS FIRE Set up going with r9 290x so I think the other Corsair HX 750 was not going to be enough.
1. Motherboard Bios has been updated.
2. I have tried XMP profile.
3. I will also move the RAMs to different slots.
Dre_G_Writer
Member
So I been spending the last week or so picking out parts for a gaming PC, and this is what I came up with so far.
What you guys think of this build???
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3KB4N
CPU - Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler - Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard - Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory - G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage - Samsung 840 Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card - Asus GeForce GTX 780 3GB DirectCU II Video Card
Case - Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply - Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive - Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer
What you guys think of this build???
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3KB4N
CPU - Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler - Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard - Asus Z87-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory - G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage - Samsung 840 Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card - Asus GeForce GTX 780 3GB DirectCU II Video Card
Case - Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply - Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive - Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer
AstuteClass
Banned
Here's another pic of a similar gap, this one connected to the rad (same tube that connects to the CPU with a similar gap above):
Here's another pic of a similar gap, this one connected to the rad (same tube that connects to the CPU with a similar gap above):
Just wrap tons of kitchen paper around it and run it for a few minutes. Then turn off and check the paper. If its wet RMA, if its not you are good to go.
AstuteClass
Banned
Thanks LilJoka. However, I just tried moving the tube gently towards the gap and the tube wouldn't budge, so I doubt it's become loose.
Also, this is a picture from an official review of the H105
Notice a similar gap?
Also, this is a picture from an official review of the H105
Notice a similar gap?
Thanks LilJoka. However, I just tried moving the tube gently towards the gap and the tube wouldn't budge, so I doubt it's become loose.
Also, this is a picture from an official review of the H105
Notice a similar gap?
Yeah there wont be an issue, the seal is below the cap.
Dre_G_Writer
Member
On those gaps in the tubes, I would wrap those connector gaps with some sealing tape, its like a type of tape you can buy at hardware store that is used for wrapping water line pipes. and wrap those ends up real tight. Or just rub some rubber sealant around the ends, across the gaps.
I'd probably make one or two little changes myself but it's pretty solid:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.94 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($148.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($244.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked ACX Video Card ($479.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1426.86
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-15 15:35 EDT-0400)
- Don't really need the massive Noctua, a 212 EVO would do.
- Slightly improved motherboard.
- Slightly cheaper RAM.
- Samsung 840 EVO 500GB is a better drive at cheaper price.
- EVGA 780 Superclocked is a fantastic card and cooler.
- Much better quality power supply.
- Slightly cheaper DVD drive.
Here's another pic of a similar gap, this one connected to the rad (same tube that connects to the CPU with a similar gap above):
It's fine. They use a barb type fitting so that plastic cap is just to keep it neat and prevent you from trying to rip it off.
Sword Of Doom
Member
Uhh guys, is there meant to be a slight gap in the tubing of my H105?
It's definitely there, albeit slight. Am I just being paranoid?
If it's a bath type fitting that gap means absolutely nothing. It's just a plastic cover
Edit: beaten ^^^^
Dre_G_Writer
Member
See, this is why I fucks with NEOGAF, good fucking looking out dude. I need to revise some things and re-think my options.
Anyone else with some input would be greatly appreciated.
The CM JetFlos are sleeve bearing, and are basically inaudible at 1000 RPM.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.94 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($244.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 3GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($519.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 350D MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($77.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1462.86
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-15 16:47 EDT-0400)
This gives you a much nicer case with better airflow, which means overall quieter operation. It is also not nearly as open, which means less sound getting through.
The motherboard is a Z97, which is the newest chipset. If you want to hold off a month, or even resell the 4770K, then you can plop in a 4970K if they turn out to be the cat's pajamas. This is not an option with Z87 motherboards.
The PSU is plenty enough for what you need, and is stupid good quality.
The videocard I put in there will run quieter than the one you had selected, and is very fast out of the box. If you are thinking about buying today this 780 is only $439 and is a good one.
It increases the overall price a bit, but since you're already in baller territory (4770K + 780), might as well do it right.
The only other thing I might suggest is an increase in RAM. It isn't going to get any cheaper over the next year or two, and will actually increase in price.
Dre_G_Writer
Member
is there even a reason to get 16gb worth of memory??? Are there any games thats even using that much memory??? I thought 8 was the stardard and haven't seen any games go over that.
Your SSD has a tool that basically takes important files that are accessed often and stores it to your RAM, and your RAM ends up acting like a hybrid storage drive alongside the SSD. This is the huge benefit to the Samsung EVO over other SSDs.
That with general multitasking, lets say 10 chrome tabs, Dota client open watching TI3, some chat functions, maybe a stream or something. Then you get to a point where you want more memory.
*edit*
It is a luxury add-on, and nothing that will change your core gaming experience.
That with general multitasking, lets say 10 chrome tabs, Dota client open watching TI3, some chat functions, maybe a stream or something. Then you get to a point where you want more memory.
*edit*
It is a luxury add-on, and nothing that will change your core gaming experience.
Sword Of Doom
Member
Nope if you're just paying games
Edit: mkenyon makes a good point about using your ram for super fast data access
Dre_G_Writer
Member
You make a really good point there. Didn't really think of that, but on the flip side, this PC is purely for gaming. I got a web designing macbook that I do my browsing on and everyday computer on. The computer im building now, it will only be on when I want to play something. So with that in mind, I'm not sure if increased ram would help out, not sure.
- Status