xBladeM6x
Member
You won't find much better than what I linked there, for anything close in your price range. I have that ASUS monitor, and I can assure you it's amazing. Has specifically really nice color.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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You won't find much better than what I linked there, for anything close in your price range. I have that ASUS monitor, and I can assure you it's amazing. Has specifically really nice color.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Nope, it will be no big deal. Most games should automatically change the resolution down to something available upon start-up, but if not then it won't be hard to just go into the video options and pick 1080p. You're only losing 120 pixels vertically so you don't have to really worry about stuff appearing off-screen and not being able to see what you're doing.
maneil99
Member
Thanks, also since it will be 144hz anything over 144hz = screen tearing and anything under = less screen tearing right. Is there anyway to lock it to 144 without vsync. I hate vsync because of input lag. EVGA can only go up to 120. A good framerate limiter is what I am looking for I guess for nvidia. Frame Rate limiters don't add input lag from what I can tell
Dr. Kitty Muffins
Member
You won't find much better than what I linked there, for anything close in your price range. I have that ASUS monitor, and I can assure you it's amazing. Has specifically really nice color.
I also can get a 10 percent discount at Walmart if that helps.
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
Hey Mineshaft, I'm getting around the same score as that 780, with my 290. Since Unigine favors Nvidia (?), I find this odd and I am inclined to say something is up with your results even though I don't know what your clocks are.
Just to follow up, my old drive with all its files is now my E drive. I had several dozen game files there, but my fresh Steam install showed none as downloaded.
So what I did was choose a game to download, then pick the E drive, then navigate to the Steam folder E:\Program Files (x86)\Steam and start the download. When I looked back all my games showed up as installed.
So now I don't need a mover program. Just copy/paste from one drive to the other as long as you've "registered" the folder your games are in. Pretty ez.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Hi heyf00l!
eBay Huckster
Member
man, speaking of monitors, I really need to get around to replacing this Acer AL1715 so I'm not awkwardly running 1280x1024 next to my VH242H
maybe i'll get an Asus VG248QE or a QNIX QX2710
maybe i'll get an Asus VG248QE or a QNIX QX2710
in the far-off year of 2015
maneil99
Member
eBay Huckster
Member
By 2015 we will have newer better monitors
given that I'm building a system with a GTX 700 series GPU right before the 800 series is expected to drop, I don't exactly mind being below the absolute top of the line
maneil99
Member
given that I'm building a system with a GTX 700 series GPU right before the 800 series is expected to drop, I don't exactly mind being below the absolute top of the line
But if your buying a monitor in 2015 the monitors now will be placed with better ones for the same price
eBay Huckster
Member
good point. i'll just wait for the next round's equivalent of the VG248QE
Ooh, I thought you meant moving games from HDD to SSD, for performance, and back later once done. That's why I recommend Steam Mover. But, yeah, if you just want access to you old already installed games, just fire up steam and add directory where you want games you to be installed. In this case, your old steam game folder. Now, you have access to them again without needing to redownload.
Currently, thinking about building my first computer. I currently own a 2010 Macbook Pro which I honestly love. It still works great and its been heavily used every day since April 2010. I'm curious if you think I should just get a gaming laptop ultrabook or build my own computer. The thing is I have nothing except a monitor and a mouse. Any and all help will be appreciated since Im pretty new at this.
Budget: $1000-1200 - Canada
Main Use: 5 Gaming, 4 General Usage, 2 Emulation
Monitor Resolution: Unsure of current monitor. I used to use it for 360 gaming 5-6 years ago. May hook up to HDMI TV instead.
List SPECIFIC games MUST be able to run well: I currently own a 360. Im currently thinking of going PC + Ps4 for next-gen gaming but I'm unsure if I should. Basically, I'd loved to run games at high settings (my Macbook games plays games pretty terribly) for the next 4 years without having to replace parts. Am I being too ambitious?
When will you build?: Probably next few weeks to a month. I want to do my research.
Will you be overclocking?: No
Should I go ultrabook instead or just go with a desktop?
Budget: $1000-1200 - Canada
Main Use: 5 Gaming, 4 General Usage, 2 Emulation
Monitor Resolution: Unsure of current monitor. I used to use it for 360 gaming 5-6 years ago. May hook up to HDMI TV instead.
List SPECIFIC games MUST be able to run well: I currently own a 360. Im currently thinking of going PC + Ps4 for next-gen gaming but I'm unsure if I should. Basically, I'd loved to run games at high settings (my Macbook games plays games pretty terribly) for the next 4 years without having to replace parts. Am I being too ambitious?
When will you build?: Probably next few weeks to a month. I want to do my research.
Will you be overclocking?: No
Should I go ultrabook instead or just go with a desktop?
I have a monitor request that's perhaps a bit odd.
I currently have an ASUS VH238H 23-Inch (it's a 1080p TN monitor with 2ms response time and a 60 hz refresh rate).
I was wondering if there was a good monitor that:
1.) Is an IPS, was 1080p, and was 60 hz.
2.) Has a decent response time (would I notice the difference between a 5 ms and 2 ms monitor given 60 hz? I think those are not connected but was never entirely sure?)
3.) Has good black levels and ideally doesn't have backlight bleed (or at least not a noticeable amount).
4.) Would be a decent upgrade over the current monitor, if that would even exist given the constraints.
5.) If the colors were decent out of the box that'd be great. I seem to be really bad at this color adjustment thing.
Cost is not a huge issue if the upgrade is actually worthwhile.
I currently have an ASUS VH238H 23-Inch (it's a 1080p TN monitor with 2ms response time and a 60 hz refresh rate).
I was wondering if there was a good monitor that:
1.) Is an IPS, was 1080p, and was 60 hz.
2.) Has a decent response time (would I notice the difference between a 5 ms and 2 ms monitor given 60 hz? I think those are not connected but was never entirely sure?)
3.) Has good black levels and ideally doesn't have backlight bleed (or at least not a noticeable amount).
4.) Would be a decent upgrade over the current monitor, if that would even exist given the constraints.
5.) If the colors were decent out of the box that'd be great. I seem to be really bad at this color adjustment thing.
Cost is not a huge issue if the upgrade is actually worthwhile.
Hi. Thanks for the PC building help. This thing is amazing and tiny.
I'll want to move some around later, but yeah first I just wanted them to show up.
I am in Toronto. It'll be used primarily for gaming I imagine as I enjoy moving my laptop around and its not slow or unusable.
It's not the best, but it's totally great for probably 90% of FPS players.
How about the Eizo Foris FG2421? It's 120Hz and VA with great colors.
There is a lot of high praise for the FS2333 as well, which is a lot cheaper.
xBladeM6x
Member
I see. I typically don't play MMOs, but I love having the keypad on the side of the mouse for super fast weapon swapping. That, and I have absolutely huge hands, and it looks more bulky, which is a plus.
Wait, your defective hdd is causing problems with the games on an entirely different drive?
Dice
Pokémon Parentage Conspiracy Theorist
That has very common lightbleed and crosshatching issues, otherwise I probably would have sprung for it today.
The FS2333 seems to really align with your needs. It's a fantastic monitor.
maneil99
Member
Samsung S24D590PL?
Its got 5ms resonse timr but its a good price.
MWS Natural
Member
I have one for sale
Cool build. Can't wait to see how it turns out!
Thanks..tried to finish up tonight but bunch of crap went wrong.
1.A portion of the PSU is resting on top of the heatsink. I'm sure that's not good but I can't figure out a way to keep it up.
2. Can't mount my Noiseblocker M12-P 120mm fan in the back because it's all rubber. Tried to use some rubber mounts or rivets but nothing would keep it up there.
3. With HDD bay cage in I can't fit anything in the other side of the cage so I'm basically stuck with no more than 3 drives in the case total.
SHADES
Member
Need some trouble shooting help please GAF.
So last night I start assembling my 1st ever PC build and all seems to go well, connect everything up but before I start any cable management I do a POST and all I'm getting is the following "over current detected on USB device, your computer will shut off in 15 seconds!"
I'm using a CM storm scout 2 advanced & a MSi B85-G41 PC mate ATX MOBO.
I've checked the I/O plate to see if it's fitted properly and not making contact with anything it shouldn't and I've checked to see if the MOBO mounting screws aren't making contact anywhere they shouldn't, but still can't make head nor tale of it so packed it up for the night to leave for a fresh pair of eyes and a multimeter today.
Any suggestions please guys?
So last night I start assembling my 1st ever PC build and all seems to go well, connect everything up but before I start any cable management I do a POST and all I'm getting is the following "over current detected on USB device, your computer will shut off in 15 seconds!"
I'm using a CM storm scout 2 advanced & a MSi B85-G41 PC mate ATX MOBO.
I've checked the I/O plate to see if it's fitted properly and not making contact with anything it shouldn't and I've checked to see if the MOBO mounting screws aren't making contact anywhere they shouldn't, but still can't make head nor tale of it so packed it up for the night to leave for a fresh pair of eyes and a multimeter today.
Any suggestions please guys?
Unplug the front USB case connection and make sure nothing else is plugged in except the keyboard to the back.
If necessary take the mobo out of the case to be sure.
SHADES
Member
Thanks for the reply dude but found the issue 1st glance, for the life of me I just couldn't see it last night and was doing my nut thinking I'd cocked something up but it's true what they say about walking away then coming back to the problem.
USB front port had a bent pin.
I noticed if I use downsampling from 1440p to 1080p via nvidia settings I get a much darker image in games in contrast to the default 1080p. is there any way to get the same image quality (apart from resolution, just brightness, contrast etc) settings in normal 1080p w/o the downsampling?
I think some (desktop?) settings might be mixed up and if using downsampling they are returned to normal, not sure on this though.
I think some (desktop?) settings might be mixed up and if using downsampling they are returned to normal, not sure on this though.
Yeah, I had a hard choice between FS2333 and FG2421 when my last display suddently broke down. I ended up throwing in an extra ~150e and going with the FG2421, both because of 120Hz and because of the sick good black level. No regrets.
There were upsides to the FS2333 too, however. Proper VESA mount for display arm / pivot / etc. No crosshatching, which is slight but present on the FG2421. Integrated speakers might come in handy sometimes.
Perhaps your timings are not quite optimal? You could try a different interface type (DVI/DP/HDMI).
Demon Lizardman
Banned
So Haz's enthusiast build with a intel 4790K CPU? Anything else your recommend like graphics card? Because I plan on getting my parts this week.
SneakyStephan
Banned
About to buy a new HDD, WD blue 1TB WD10EZEX model is still the one to go for speed and reliability, right?
Did some searching a few months ago and then it was the best 1TB hdd but I was wondering if any new revisions or something akin to the good old samsung spinpoint f1 had come out in the meantime.
Also for case fans how loud is the Coolermaster Blade Master 120 (this is the same fan that is on the hyper212 cpu cooler that seems so popular on gaf)
It's the only 120mm case fan my local pc store has in stock (fml) but I heard it's not exactly quiet?
Ordering a different fan from the store I usually use isn't exactly an option right now as my case fan just died on me and even with the side of the case open I can hear my cpu fan throttle up a lot harder than usual trying to keep things cooled.
Did some searching a few months ago and then it was the best 1TB hdd but I was wondering if any new revisions or something akin to the good old samsung spinpoint f1 had come out in the meantime.
Also for case fans how loud is the Coolermaster Blade Master 120 (this is the same fan that is on the hyper212 cpu cooler that seems so popular on gaf)
It's the only 120mm case fan my local pc store has in stock (fml) but I heard it's not exactly quiet?
Ordering a different fan from the store I usually use isn't exactly an option right now as my case fan just died on me and even with the side of the case open I can hear my cpu fan throttle up a lot harder than usual trying to keep things cooled.
TC McQueen
Member
It's absolutely not quiet at 60%+ of max RPM. It is extremely noisy, although some of that might be additional flow noise from going through the Hyper 212 cooler.
Is there any way I can move my OS (inc. programs, all saved data etc) onto a new SSD so that's the primary drive? I've just picked up a new Samsung EVO 250GB SSD, and I currently run everything off a Crucial M4 128GB SSD. No idea what I did with my Windows 8 disk or key for that matter, so moving things across would (in theory) be easier.
Failing that, does anyone know a way of 'retrieving' my Windows 8 key? I don't really mind if I would be better off doing a fresh install but that's a chunk of my weekend gone lol.
Cheers fellas.
Failing that, does anyone know a way of 'retrieving' my Windows 8 key? I don't really mind if I would be better off doing a fresh install but that's a chunk of my weekend gone lol.
Cheers fellas.
Can anyone help with these?
As for transferring your OS.. I can't say for sure, but off the top of my head there aren't any red flags. You could just copy it to your new SSD, but keep your old one ready in case it doesn't work.
maneil99
Member
Better off reformatting then copying over windows files to a different HDD/SSD. Also you can view you windows key by opening windows explorer and viewing the properties of 'name of your pc'
I posted an article once about the differences in temps when adding fans, personally I have 2 front and 1 bottom intake with 1 rear and 1 top exhaust. However if I was building now I'd just use 2 front intake and 1 rear exhaust in the r4 for the silence.
It depends how much a few degrees means to you, how much you spend on quality fans and just how silent you want your build.
On an unrelated note, this new product could prove super popular. Gives the option to use a cpu aio water cooler on almost all of the current gpus!
NZXT Kraken G10 Review - overclock3d
It depends how much a few degrees means to you, how much you spend on quality fans and just how silent you want your build.
On an unrelated note, this new product could prove super popular. Gives the option to use a cpu aio water cooler on almost all of the current gpus!
NZXT Kraken G10 Review - overclock3d
SneakyStephan
Banned
Thanks
they had an antec tricool in stock that wasn't on their website so bought that instead (it's the same fan that broke for me but it lasted 5 years and was pretty quiet on the low setting so w/e)
Garou
Member
That's not the Windows Key.
Thanks for the answer. I don't really need my PC to be totally silent, but I don't want it to be loud either. I'm a little concerned about the temperature since my room temp is high in the summers, like 40+ celsius (104 fahrenheit).
What quality fans would you recommend? Do you know anything about the Arctic F14?
Well, that's news to me. Any idea how to get it, then?
Copying your partitions to a new disk like that can be done with partition management software. Most decent ones cost money, but there is GParted that you can run from a USB stick or DVD. Back up your data before you try it.
Alternatively, you could create a System Image using Windows' built in utility. You should store the System Image on separate disk of some kind. Then (once you have your key), you install your OS from scratch on the new disk and restore the System Image to it by following the system restore wizard.
This is not correct. The string shown there is your Product ID and not your key. The Product ID is derived from your key, but cannot be used to install the OS.
I recommend you look online for a key finder utility. There are several available for free.
I honestly haven't had experience with a great deal of fans. There was a great post in the last few pages comparing static pressure fans, perhaps there is a similar resource for general case fans.
I'd suggest trying the 2 fractal fans which come with the r4 in front-upper and rear (I think it ships like this) before you buy any others, you may find this sufficient. I have noctua nf-a14s for front and bottom and those fractal 140mm r2 fans rear and top.
The noctuas are very nice but overpriced for most people's taste (also strange colour scheme)
The corsair quiet editions are probably worth a look, I know there are more good choices in the US than the UK too.
AstuteClass
Banned
Ran into a bit of a snag as I'm constructing my PC here, guys.
H105 rad won't fit inside case because of motherboard clearance, so it has to go on the outside of my Phantom 410, but it thankfully fits under the top cover of my case.
The fans have to go inside (Corsair SP120 dual pack), but which direction? I'm thinking of having them push air out, but won't they be pushing warm air through the rad? But at the same time, how can they be in pull if they can't generate static pressure because the rad is at the back of them?
Picture for reference:
H105 rad won't fit inside case because of motherboard clearance, so it has to go on the outside of my Phantom 410, but it thankfully fits under the top cover of my case.
The fans have to go inside (Corsair SP120 dual pack), but which direction? I'm thinking of having them push air out, but won't they be pushing warm air through the rad? But at the same time, how can they be in pull if they can't generate static pressure because the rad is at the back of them?
Picture for reference:
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
I have an EVGA GTX680 rear exhaust card. I was wondering what options I'm going to have for coolers that are a bit quieter. I see some with two fans, etc.. it can't add any more bulk to the card since I do not have space.
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