phxxBullet
Banned
Looking at the specs, I'm pretty sure the only difference is that the "C" model is "Certified for Cisco Jabber"...whatever that means.
Cisco Jabber uses certificate validation to establish secure connections with servers.
Looking at the specs, I'm pretty sure the only difference is that the "C" model is "Certified for Cisco Jabber"...whatever that means.
Alright. So I posted my specs in this thread before asking for advice but that was ages ago and the post is buried. I wasn't able to build at the time because I was in the process of buying a house, moving, and then my wife had a baby, so you could say I was distracted and my priorities were elsewhere.
Anyway...
My Current Specs:
CPU - Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4 Ghz
RAM - 2x2GB DDR2 800
Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R
GPU - Radeon HD 4870 512MB
PSU - Antec Earthwatts 380W PSU (Maybe 500?)
Case - Antec Performance One P180B Case
HDD - SanDisk Extreme 120GB SATA III SSD
Budget: ~$1000, US - An important note is that although I have about $1000+ to spend, doesn't mean I want to spend that "just because" if I can get a cheaper part that will perform the same or just slightly worse than something that's hundreds more, I'd rather do that.
Main Use: Mostly internet browsing, although I do go through gaming "binges" where I'll play quite a few games in a short amount of time. I also do emulation here and there, although it's usually classic arcades and consoles. I have a PS2, Wii, etc, hooked up to a dedicated tube TV.
Monitor Resolution: Largely at 1080P although I may upgrade to a higher res monitor in the future. Currently, I have no desire to.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Probably my SSD and secondary HDD that I have in the case. I also have a Creative Labs X-Fi in there that will be moved to the new case. I may buy a new PSU but not sure. It's >380W since I had to return it at some point under warranty and I was "gifted" a larger watt replacement. I just can't remember what the higher wattage is.
When will you build?: Soon. No deadline.
Will you be overclocking?: No, unless it's a stupid easy one like the Q6600 is. I will not be overclocking if it means hours upon hours of testing to squeak out a few Mhz.
Yep. Just did. Updated to 2003 which was released yesterday/today.Well, did you try resetting the BIOS to default as mentioned in those posts, and then updating it again?
Your money would be better spent on whatever the maximum cpu for your motherboard. Crossfire wouldn't help you much.
I currently have 2x2gb DDR3 1600Mhz RAM and I seriously need an upgrade, cause the combination of Lightroom and Chrome just murders my Win 7 from time to time.
I'm thinking of adding another 8 gb, but there's always the talk of dual RAM sticks performing much better. So how much better? I'd rather just buy an 8 gb stick now and have the 2+2+8 for the time being, with someday adding another 8 gb stick and removing the 4 I have now.
I basically just need more RAM for Lightroom, not really concerned if I lose like 10% performance while gaming.
Also, any preferred brands/types? I have Kingston now.
Are the stock 780 coolers any good?
Getting a EVGA 780 nonTi Superclocked and I have an NZXT H440 which suffocates components with its less than ideal airflow.
Don't want to end up cooking it.
looking to build a rig for my friend, he'll be using it for basic stuff with light gaming.
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/dusktildawn48/saved/dsprxr
edit: doesnt need case or os
Asked about this earlier but here it goes again. Is overprovisioning necessary for SSD's? Samsung magician wants to partition off 10%.
He said he wanted an i7 lol. Which is clearly overkillIn that case, the CPU is definitely overkill unless you know sure he'll overclock it and upgrade the GPU eventually. Consider maybe the 4430/4570 instead.
If he does plan to upgrade the gpu eventually, he might need a bigger PSU.
So could anyone recommend any good PSUs that aren't too expensive? (>$80)
I'm out of the loop here, since where I buy my components most of the time I can't even look at the specs without the seller having to bring the box from the warehouse or something. Annoying.
Ok PcGaf I have designed this custom build to my liking.
Linked Here: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2K6YLk
A few questions
1. Is anything overkill, meaning can I select a cheaper part, or remove it from the build all together?
2. On a scale from 1-10 how good will this build be?
3. What kind of Gaming performance can I expect with CPU/GPU setup? Will I be able to run games on ultra at 60fps or will I have to temper my expectations.
This will be my first build, so thanks in advance for the help.
They are not too bad, mine runs up to 80c with a nice 1100/3200Mhz OC on stock volts, fan is probably similar noise as PS4 at a distance. If you are right next to PC youll notice it. The stock coolers will not cook your card if you arent worried about fan noise. I run 1250/3500 1.21v (max by default tools) with fan at 70% and hits about 85c. These are all measurements in Unigene Valley benchmark.
Ok PcGaf I have designed this custom build to my liking.
Linked Here: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2K6YLk
A few questions
1. Is anything overkill, meaning can I select a cheaper part, or remove it from the build all together?
2. On a scale from 1-10 how good will this build be?
3. What kind of Gaming performance can I expect with CPU/GPU setup? Will I be able to run games on ultra at 60fps or will I have to temper my expectations.
This will be my first build, so thanks in advance for the help.
Ok PcGaf I have designed this custom build to my liking.
Linked Here: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2K6YLk
A few questions
1. Is anything overkill, meaning can I select a cheaper part, or remove it from the build all together?
2. On a scale from 1-10 how good will this build be?
3. What kind of Gaming performance can I expect with CPU/GPU setup? Will I be able to run games on ultra at 60fps or will I have to temper my expectations.
This will be my first build, so thanks in advance for the help.
Why do you need a network adapter card with that motherboard?
Get the 4770k, even if you think you won't overclock. It's SO easy nowadays and it'd be a crying shame if you were stuck with one with no unlocked multiplier. Even if you don't do it now, you might want to in a few years for a free 15% performance boost.
If you insist on the 4770, I don't see a need for the after market cooler.
Other than that, get the cheapest named brand 1600Mhz RAM there is. You will get no performance boost from SUPER TURBO HYPER XXX TRIPLE BUFFERED MOUNTAIN DEW ULTRA RAM; it's like flushing money down the toilet.
Do you plan on going SLI some time down the line? If not, 750W is overkill on the PSU. 550w will do you fine.
As for performance, @1080p and assuming a decent PC port, expect 60fps with pretty much everything maxed out. Obviously you'll have to be sensible with the AA, as does anyone really but you should be set for a good couple of years if not more
Ok thanks, I'm pretty sure I won't overclock. I will check on the PSU. I thought the evga gtx 780 required 600w of power. At least thats what I read on Newegg. I may be mistaken though. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Ok thanks, I'm pretty sure I won't overclock. I will check on the PSU. I thought the evga gtx 780 required 600w of power. At least thats what I read on Newegg. I may be mistaken though. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
It helps performance when your drive is nearly full. SSDs drastically lose performance as the drive gets ~90% full so the over provisioning ensures that it never technically goes over that limit, even if you totally fill the drive.
It's worth having on.
If you are not going to overclock you might as well get a i7-4790 and a "modest" z97 motherboard, no real need to spend so much on a motherboard if you are not overclocking or using 2 gpu's.
If you are not going to overclock you might as well get a i7-4790 and a "modest" z97 motherboard, no real need to spend so much on a motherboard if you are not overclocking or using 2 gpu's.
I run a lot of CPU intensive programs like Photoshop, Premiere, AutoCAD and Maya so how will a 4790 against the 4770. This build is going to be a quiet beast. Really powerful, but I want as least noise as possible.
If I really don't get care about getting more than 60fps what monitor should I be getting? I was thinking of getting the 144hz Asus but I really dont care about that. Why get that when I can just get two monitors for the price of one?
So... I kind of want a Steam streaming box. What would be the cheapest route for 1080p60? I keep going back and forth if I want to go super cheap streaming only, or build ~$500 mini ITX machine that can do some decent gaming.
Because moving a cursor at 60hz feels awful after experiencing it at 144hz.If I really don't get care about getting more than 60fps what monitor should I be getting? I was thinking of getting the 144hz Asus but I really dont care about that. Why get that when I can just get two monitors for the price of one?
Any with not more than 2MS (at least if you're playing FPS, everything else shouldn't suffer much on 5MS).If I really don't get care about getting more than 60fps what monitor should I be getting? I was thinking of getting the 144hz Asus but I really dont care about that. Why get that when I can just get two monitors for the price of one?
What power rating? What kind of system is it for?
For bog standard reliablity and to maximise price/performance, take a look at the CXM series from Corsair. They're modular too, so you only use the cables that your system needs, letting you avoid unnecessary clutter.
My current specs are probably low power, GTX 650 doesn't drain much as far as I know, I wanna replace the generic one I have:
CPU: Intel Core i5-650 @ 3.20GHz
RAM: 1x Kingston 4GB DDR3-1333
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-H55M-S2V Micro ATX LGA1156
GPU: Geforce GTX 650 1GB GDDR5
PSU: Pixxo Jaguar 600W 24 pins SATA
I went shopping and saw the 650W NZXT HALE82-N, looking it up online saw that it is kinda old, but had good ratings, I think getting a more powerful one is going to be hard for me.
Except it seems like it is an older $30 PSU with fake specs (25A on all rails yeah right),500W would do you fine. 450 even. If you want a good chunk of breathing room in case of upgrades down the line or for extra hdds and other internal peripherals, 550w would be great. For your current build, you're really overdoing it with 600w.
Buying or have? Have is fine.Do you guys see any issues with this setup? The processor and 660ti are from another build so I can't switch those out.
.
intel i5 3570k
EVGA 2GB GTX 660ti
ASRock Z77 Extreme 4
16GB G Skills ripjaws x 1600 DDR3 (4x4)
WD 1TB HDD 7200rpm
Corsair CX600 power supply (its cheaper than the 500w)
Rosewell Challenger ATX mid tower
Thanks!
The CX is a bit of a lame PSU but it will do the job. I'd swap it out for an XFX 550W Core Edition if you can get it for a similar price, or something even nicer if you have extra cash.Do you guys see any issues with this setup? The processor and 660ti are from another build so I can't switch those out.
.
intel i5 3570k
EVGA 2GB GTX 660ti
ASRock Z77 Extreme 4
16GB G Skills ripjaws x 1600 DDR3 (4x4)
WD 1TB HDD 7200rpm
Corsair CX600 power supply (its cheaper than the 500w)
Rosewell Challenger ATX mid tower
Thanks!
The CX is a bit of a lame PSU but it will do the job. I'd swap it out for an XFX 550W Core Edition if you can get it for a similar price, or something even nicer if you have extra cash.
I don't know that case - again if you have some extra money to spend it might be worth it. Corsair 200R etc.
Get a better CPU cooler too if you don't have one, e.g Hyper 212 Evo. Then overclock that 3570K.
Tomorrow is the day I am finding out about the Devils canyon processor, if it does get delayed, I am getting the haswell 4790 instead. hopefully, I don't need to over-clock to play great graphical games on the highest setting and have them run smooth.