Support NeoGAF

[chaosblade]

Are there any downsides to using a multi rail PSU over a single rail. Found this BeQuiet! which I'm planning on using with a 770 and an overclocked 4670K: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/530w-be-quiet!-pure-power-l8-bn181-modular-80plus-bronze-87-eff-120mm-silentwings-fan-eps-12v-atx-v2?ProductId=48464. Would this be suitable as I'm worried about the dual rail 12V line, I'm assuming the rails are split over both PCI-E cables?

In real world situations I don't think it matters much as long as you have a good PSU. Some claim they can push a lot more amps on the +12 rails than they actually can (might say "28A per rail!" which may technically be true but the max for the +12 combined rails might only be 40A and not 56A), but as far as balancing between rails the cables should be color coded or otherwise marked, but you shouldn't even need to worry about that in a single GPU build.

Just got burned on shipping (package is seemingly lost and post office(s) can't/won't do anything about it) and I'm a little worried about buying the parts for my build online. What precautions, if any, do you all take when having stuff shipped to you?

Nothing really. When you order stuff you're putting faith in the seller to label it right and the people at whatever company is delivering it to do their jobs right.

With the thousands and thousands of packages going around there are bound to be some mistakes, I've had a couple pop up, but nothing that actually prevented me from getting my order in the end.

Ordering from somewhere like Amazon that has great customer support is good for peace of mind too.

 

[sproutella]

So the CM Hyper T4 was the only CM cooler available at the store when I was picking up my other parts (i7-4770k and GA z87x ud3h). I know the CM 212 evo was the ubiquitous budget cooler for basic overclocking, but will the hyper t4 perform at a similar level? I was pretty set on returning it (as the are pretty much no reviews or benchmarks of the hyper t4 I can find) and ordering the evo from somewhere until I saw the updated build sheet with it recommended.

Basically do any of you have more info on the hyper t4/ think I'll be able to get a decent overclock with it (not sure what that is, like 4.2/4.3 ghz)?

This is my first build so sorry if I am asking a dumb question.

 

[Bboy AJ]

If I'm only gaming 1080, is a 4GB card worth it?

Just got burned on shipping (package is seemingly lost and post office(s) can't/won't do anything about it) and I'm a little worried about buying the parts for my build online. What precautions, if any, do you all take when having stuff shipped to you?

I use my AMEX.

 

[chaosblade]

If I'm only gaming 1080, is a 4GB card worth it?

How much extra are you spending for 4GB, and how long do you intend to use the card? I'd say the answer is "probably" but if you know you're sticking with 1080p, and you're paying $50-$60 more, and you're going to dump the thing in a year and a half, it's probably not worth it.

So the CM Hyper T4 was the only CM cooler available at the store when I was picking up my other parts (i7-4770k and GA z87x ud3h). I know the CM 212 evo was the ubiquitous budget cooler for basic overclocking, but will the hyper t4 perform at a similar level? I was pretty set on returning it (as the are pretty much no reviews or benchmarks of the hyper t4 I can find) and ordering the evo from somewhere until I saw the updated build sheet with it recommended.

Basically do any of you have more info on the hyper t4/ think I'll be able to get a decent overclock with it (not sure what that is, like 4.2/4.3 ghz)?

This is my first build so sorry if I am asking a dumb question.

Apparently it's a little worse, but you should be able to OC with it decently enough.

 

[Xdrive05]

If I'm only gaming 1080, is a 4GB card worth it?



I use my AMEX.

FWIW, I've already seen well over 2GB usage with modded Skyrim @ 1080p on my 770 4GB. Don't have BF4, but I've heard it uses over 2GB too at same res.

Bottom line, depends on how long you plan to keep it. If you want it to last two or three years (or more), 4GB is probably the safest bet with next gen engines coming into full swing. If you think you might get a new card within a year or two, 2GB will be fine even if you have to lower some AA/texture setting to keep the vram usage lite on some theoretical yet to come out next gen behemoth game.

 

[kharma45]

I hate modded Skyrim being used as an example, its not representative of most titles since its user created content being added in.

 

[brentech]

I hate modded Skyrim being used as an example, its not representative of most titles since its user created content being added in.

To add to this, I have pretty much everything re-texurized and over 25 mods running. Absolutely no problem on 2GB card at max settings.

I happened to upgrade to a 4GB card, but not for this reason. I might not even have needed to at all, but I just wanted to be sure adding another monitor into the mix for streaming/using other programs while playing a game wouldn't be an issue.

 

[Xdrive05]

I hate modded Skyrim being used as an example, its not representative of most titles since its user created content being added in.

Correct, but it's also an old game and with the ENB/mods running it's probably closer to what we can expect in two to three years given new graphics engines designed take advantage of the larger ram pools of the new consoles.

To your point, it's probably more relevant that vanilla Crysis 3 and BF4 already use over 2GB at 1080p on highest settings, as an indicator of things to come.

 

[Mad Max]

Hey guys, I'm planning on buying a new monitor somewhere this month. I'm looking for a 24" screen, mostly for FPS/action gaming and office use. So I was mostly looking at the Asus VG248QE (€300) and the Benq XL2411T(/Z) (€280). And even though I have an R9 290 right now the promise of future Gsync compatibility made me lean towards the Asus at first.

However it seems that the VG248QE has a PWM controlled backlight which can cause flickering, which is the thing that made me quickly abandon CRT monitors in the first place :<. Now of course this might not be as bad as it was back then, but it still has me worried a bit. The Benq on the other hand has a different type of brightness control which is not supposed to have this problem.

Can anyone who has experience with the Asus comment on the flickering? Suggestions for other ~€300 monitors suitable for gaming are welcome too.

 

[riflen]

Frostbite games cache resources in vram, as do other engines. If you have free vram, the games will take advantage of it. It's disingenuous to suggest you'll have problems playing those games with 2GB vram. In fact I'd say that 4GB is a waste on GK104, as you'll be playing at poor frame rates if you use the resolutions needed to occupy that much vram.

In the end, it's a judgement call, but my advice when asked is that if you're buying a GK104-based board in Jan 2014 don't spend too much.

 

[mkenyon]

Hey guys,

posted this on page 2 but it was quickly drown under the sea of posts celebrating the new thread!

fter doing a bit of research, I decided against the idea of using Scan to build my computer and instead decided to go ahead and build it myself. This gives me more choices for the parts selection.

To briefly recapitulate my needs:
- Gaming machine first and foremost
- Has to be CUDA-compatible for GPU-accelerated work in MATLAB. So I am pretty much stuck with nVidia, not that it's necessarily a bad thing.
- I would like a long-lasting system without the need to upgrade for a while

Some random comments/questions:
- I opted for a GTX 780 Ti for now. Still undecided. Would the 780 be able to run most (all) games at 1080/60 and higher resolutions? It appears that the Ti has vastly superior CUDA performance though.
- I am not sure about the power supply. Seems ok but it doesn't appear in the OP? The Cool Master PSUs are much more expensive.
- I went for the corsair watercooling solution. Any disadvantage compared to more conventional fan-based cooling? Difficulty of assembly?
- Any must have tool to get to facilitate the build?

Here is the build:

[url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/2vpGB]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/2vpGB/by_merchant/]Price breakdown by merchant[/url] / [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/2vpGB/benchmarks/]Benchmarks[/url]

[b]CPU:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i74770k]Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor[/url]  (£250.43 @ Ebuyer) 
[b]CPU Cooler:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-cpu-cooler-h60cw9060007ww]Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler[/url]  (£52.73 @ Ebuyer) 
[b]Motherboard:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-maximusvihero]Asus Maximus VI Hero ATX LGA1150 Motherboard[/url]  (£149.81 @ Ebuyer) 
[b]Memory:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cml16gx3m2a1600c10]Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory[/url]  (£120.19 @ Scan.co.uk) 
[b]Storage:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te250bw]Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk[/url]  (£118.79 @ Amazon UK) 
[b]Storage:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/seagate-internal-hard-drive-st2000dm001]Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive[/url]  (£60.00 @ Aria PC) 
[b]Video Card:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-03gp42884kr]EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card[/url]  (£571.75 @ Amazon UK) 
[b]Case:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr4bl]Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case[/url]  (£77.70 @ Aria PC) 
[b]Power Supply:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-rm750]Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply[/url]  (£93.98 @ Dabs) 
[b]Optical Drive:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-optical-drive-sh224dbbebe]Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer[/url]  (£11.98 @ Ebuyer) 
[b]Operating System:[/b]  [url=http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-wn700615]Microsoft Windows 8.1 - OEM (64-bit)[/url]  (£79.08 @ Amazon UK) 
[b]Total:[/b] £1586.44
[i](Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)[/i]
[i](Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-04 11:26 GMT+0000)[/i]

I prefer the 780 because of the price point. Get an EVGA Classified or MSI Lightning for a little extra, and it will basically already be performing at 780Ti levels. It should handle games at 1440p/120fps for less demanding stuff and 1080/120 for just about everything.
Super solid. The PSU is great, one of the most quiet on the market. The reason we don't include it in the OP is because it is simply too new. You could go for a 650 unit to save money though.

The closed loop coolers are actually much easier to install than the big air heatsinks, and is a big reason why I prefer them.

My three favorite tools are a thick handled magnetized Phillips screwdriver, zip ties, and double sided industrial mounting tape (for SSDs).

A bit of a random tidbit, but if accurate has kind of blown my mind.

If I'm understanding correctly what a reviewer of PureOverclock.com wrote in the forums aftermarket fans on GPUs (such as dual ACX style fans) by default apparently don't reach lower temps than reference fans, and in fact they all will reach the same 'target' temp set for the card (adjustable via software).

From what they've said the reason the benchmarks for reference fans of say the 780 hit 80C while those of say the MSI hit 60C is that the manufacturer has shipped with 60C as the 'target' temperature of the card. Unless the user changes this target temp all cards will max out at the target temp as set when shipped, whether to 80C or 60C, etc, and adjust the fan speed accordingly.

The real difference, he says, comes from how the card handles lower temperatures, power consumption, as well as noise levels.

As I was tossing up a reference card fan vs an ACX variety this is eye-opening. Clearly I must be missing something here, right? Because if correct all new Kepler cards can reach whatever temp the user sets.

This is mostly true. It's very much all about noise levels.

Is this Monitor G-Sync compatible? On sale for $449! Good deal? What's the consensus on this monitor? http://m.ncix.com/products/sku/91330

Can it be OCd to 120hz?

Guess my dream monitor would be 1440p IPS 120hz capable G-Sync compatible with built in speakers. Guessing there's nothing like that haha?

No, it isn't G-Sync compatible unfortunately. The VG248QE is the only G-Sync monitor right now.

The QNIX and the Overlord Tempest are the only two 1440p panels that will be generally reliable to over clock to 120Hz.

 

[Diablos]

So, I'm really near to pull the trigger and finally buy everything needed to build my first rig since early 2000s!

...

GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 OC Core 1033/1098MHz, GDDR5 6008MHz 2GB (149.50&#8364

...

I don't know. I have a 660 and wish I went with a 760 or similar at least. You want something with at least a 256-bit memory bus in 2014 for sure.

 

[mkenyon]

I kind of agree, and you should be able to squeeze it into your budget by going with a PSU like the XFX Core 450.

 

[LCGeek]

Happy new year, I'm back in town. Thanks for the help last years guys upgraded my 3570 build in a lot of ways that helped ram, software, and gpu. You also helped me convince 4 friends to build machines instead of wasting money.

 

[kharma45]

Correct, but it's also an old game and with the ENB/mods running it's probably closer to what we can expect in two to three years given new graphics engines designed take advantage of the larger ram pools of the new consoles.

To your point, it's probably more relevant that vanilla Crysis 3 and BF4 already use over 2GB at 1080p on highest settings, as an indicator of things to come.

They scale on the amount of VRAM available iirc, you're not disadvantaged really by using a 2GB card.

Are there any downsides to using a multi rail PSU over a single rail. Found this BeQuiet! which I'm planning on using with a 770 and an overclocked 4670K: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/530w-be-quiet!-pure-power-l8-bn181-modular-80plus-bronze-87-eff-120mm-silentwings-fan-eps-12v-atx-v2?ProductId=48464. Would this be suitable as I'm worried about the dual rail 12V line, I'm assuming the rails are split over both PCI-E cables?

That PSU will easily run a 770.

This seems kind of fishy and unsavory. Is this a legit way to get it?

Yes, they're retail keys. The guy selling them is sourcing the keys from his friends PC shop.

 

[BrLvgThrChmstry]

I went ahead and pull the trigger on a partial purchase, I used mkenyon's SFF build guide mostly. Bought everything from Microcenter, here:

Fractal Node 304
Intel i5 4670K
Gigabyte Z87N Wifi
Samsung EVO 840 SSD 120GB
Crucial Ballistix 1600 2x4 8GB
550 Watt PSU (Will definitely need to swap out for a modular...)

Either going to go for a 760 4GB or 770 this week.

 

[kennah]

Solid choices

 

[QuickSilverD]

Are intel CPU still better than AMD ones? if I decide to build a gaming PC based around the R9 270 (not 270x) would it be better to pair it with an AMD CPU or an Intel one, does it matter at all?

 

[Dictator93]

Are intel CPU still better than AMD ones? if I decide to build a gaming PC based around the R9 270 (not 270x) would it be better to pair it with an AMD CPU or an Intel one, does it matter at all?

Intel ones perform better in every category except for price performance (usually).

I find it hard to recommend AMD CPUs unless you are looking to save some money.

 

[kharma45]

Yep stick to Intel. 4670K paired with a Z87 motherboard is a lovely sweetspot if you can afford it.

 

[nicjac]

I prefer the 780 because of the price point. Get an EVGA Classified or MSI Lightning for a little extra, and it will basically already be performing at 780Ti levels. It should handle games at 1440p/120fps for less demanding stuff and 1080/120 for just about everything.
Super solid. The PSU is great, one of the most quiet on the market. The reason we don't include it in the OP is because it is simply too new. You could go for a 650 unit to save money though.
The closed loop coolers are actually much easier to install than the big air heatsinks, and is a big reason why I prefer them.

My three favorite tools are a thick handled magnetized Phillips screwdriver, zip ties, and double sided industrial mounting tape (for SSDs).

Thanks for reply!

I decided on the EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Dual Classified w/ EVGA ACX Cooler, seems like a great card. I was wondering if a PSU like the Corsair RM 750 could run two of those in SLI if I ever need it? If SLI is not necessary, what would be a good compromise on the wattage?

While discussing the PSU, I saw quite a few builds with a EVGA SuperNOVA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply. Any recommendation between that one and the Corsair RM?

Also how does the Noctua D14 fares against the liquid cooling solutions? I've read a few articles and it seemed to be pretty good. I don't know why but I tend to be more at ease with just air cooling for some reason...

Sorry for all the questions

 

[Cmerrill]

Computer parts purchased & built:

-CPU-Intel core i5 4670k 3.4(3.8 turbo)
-MotherBoadrd-Asus Z87-k-Z87
-CPU Fan-Coolmaster hyper 212 evo
-RAM-G.Skill sniper 8gb
-Graphics Card-Zotac Gtx 770 2 gb
-Case-Antec one system cabinet
-PSU-Coolmaster extreme 2 725w
-LG optical drive.
-500gb and 200gb hd.

Going to download DayZ soon!

 

[kharma45]

I prefer the 780 because of the price point. Get an EVGA Classified or MSI Lightning for a little extra, and it will basically already be performing at 780Ti levels. It should handle games at 1440p/120fps for less demanding stuff and 1080/120 for just about everything.
Super solid. The PSU is great, one of the most quiet on the market. The reason we don't include it in the OP is because it is simply too new. You could go for a 650 unit to save money though.

The closed loop coolers are actually much easier to install than the big air heatsinks, and is a big reason why I prefer them.

My three favorite tools are a thick handled magnetized Phillips screwdriver, zip ties, and double sided industrial mounting tape (for SSDs).

Thanks for reply!

I decided on the EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Dual Classified w/ EVGA ACX Cooler, seems like a great card. I was wondering if a PSU like the Corsair RM 750 could run two of those in SLI if I ever need it? If SLI is not necessary, what would be a good compromise on the wattage?

While discussing the PSU, I saw quite a few builds with a EVGA SuperNOVA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply. Any recommendation between that one and the Corsair RM?

Also how does the Noctua D14 fares against the liquid cooling solutions? I've read a few articles and it seemed to be pretty good. I don't know why but I tend to be more at ease with just air cooling for some reason...

Sorry for all the questions

I'd have no worries running two of those 780s on that PSU, it's a great quality unit.

I'd stick to the Corsair PSU. Novatech do it slightly cheaper than Dabs http://www.dabs.com/products/corsair-750w-rm750-rm-series-power-supply-8XVR.html?q=750w&src=16

D14 is good, but fucking huge.

 

[nicjac]

I'd have no worries running two of those 780s on that PSU, it's a great quality unit.

I'd stick to the Corsair PSU. Novatech do it slightly cheaper than Dabs http://www.dabs.com/products/corsair-750w-rm750-rm-series-power-supply-8XVR.html?q=750w&src=16

D14 is good, but fucking huge.

I will stick with the Corsair then.

Concerning the D14, is there any disadvantage to its size other than taking more room in the case? It seems to be a very good performance/noise/cost choice according to most of the reviews I read.

I was wondering if anyone happened to know whether Dabs (UK) was still doing the 3 games promotion for those nVidia cards? The product page of the card I want to purchase (here) does specify that you can get a 3 games bundle but the actual offer page (here) doesn't list the card in question (though it doesn't list most of the cards that supposedly quality for the offer) and mentions that it is both time and stock limited.

 

[Copons]

I don't know. I have a 660 and wish I went with a 760 or similar at least. You want something with at least a 256-bit memory bus in 2014 for sure.

Eh, a 760 is something around 50€ more than the 660.
I could ditch the SSD for now, but I don't really know what would be best for me.
I never had neither an SSD neither a powerful GPU (right now I'm on a mid 2009 MBP, with a 5400rpm HDD and a 256MB GT9600M), so I really can't tell.

Also, if I ditch the SSD for a 760, should I upgrade the PSU too?
Right now I'm thinking about a (non modular) be quiet! Pure Power L8-500W 80+ Bronze. I guess it should be able to power a 760, but I really really don't know.

Aaah, decisions decisions... :'(

 

[chaosblade]

I have a NH-D14. It is indeed massively massive (but cools really, really well). Will probably go with a closed loop cooler when I upgrade my CPU/motherboard in who-knows-how-long, the thing is just way too big. Impossible to really do anything on the motherboard around the CPU with that thing in there, including changing/adding RAM.

 

[kharma45]

Eh, a 760 is something around 50€ more than the 660.
I could ditch the SSD for now, but I don't really know what would be best for me.
I never had neither an SSD neither a powerful GPU (right now I'm on a mid 2009 MBP, with a 5400rpm HDD and a 256MB GT9600M), so I really can't tell.

Also, if I ditch the SSD for a 760, should I upgrade the PSU too?
Right now I'm thinking about a (non modular) be quiet! Pure Power L8-500W 80+ Bronze. I guess it should be able to power a 760, but I really really don't know.

Aaah, decisions decisions... :'(

You could run a 760 on this http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005FPT38U/

 

[Copons]

You could run a 760 on this http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005FPT38U/

Ok, so power won't be a problem. (sadly the store where I'll buy everything doesn't have that XFX, and I'll avoid buying from Amazon.co.uk because it has shipping costs to Italy).

Problem is that right now my store doesn't have 760 cheaper than 200€ anymore, so it's going to be more than 50€ of difference with the 660, and I'll need to check and study every single one of them to know which is the best one. The cheaper right now (around 205€) is a Zotac for which I can't find any review around. :/

My god, anyway, every single day I wait, there is someone telling me something that ends increasing the total price of 50€...
Shut up everybody!

 

[Bboy AJ]

Hurry up, Steam Machine news. I want to know what's coming, how much, and when.

I went ahead and pull the trigger on a partial purchase, I used mkenyon's SFF build guide mostly. Bought everything from Microcenter, here:

Fractal Node 304
Intel i5 4670K
Gigabyte Z87N Wifi
Samsung EVO 840 SSD 120GB
Crucial Ballistix 1600 2x4 8GB
550 Watt PSU (Will definitely need to swap out for a modular...)

Either going to go for a 760 4GB or 770 this week.

Hey, that's my build, heh. How much did it run you?

 

[kharma45]

Ok, so power won't be a problem. (sadly the store where I'll buy everything doesn't have that XFX, and I'll avoid buying from Amazon.co.uk because it has shipping costs to Italy).

Problem is that right now my store doesn't have 760 cheaper than 200€ anymore, so it's going to be more than 50€ of difference with the 660, and I'll need to check and study every single one of them to know which is the best one. The cheaper right now (around 205€) is a Zotac for which I can't find any review around. :/

My god, anyway, every single day I wait, there is someone telling me something that ends increasing the total price of 50€...
Shut up everybody!

Is it the Zotac AMP! one?

 

[tr4656]

I have a NH-D14. It is indeed massively massive (but cools really, really well). Will probably go with a closed loop cooler when I upgrade my CPU/motherboard in who-knows-how-long, the thing is just way too big. Impossible to really do anything on the motherboard around the CPU with that thing in there, including changing/adding RAM.

You may not see a big improvement with closed loops in terms of cooling performance though, because the NH-D14 is already really good.

 

[chaosblade]

You may not see a big improvement with closed loops in terms of cooling performance though, because the NH-D14 is already really good.

I'd be fine with the same cooling performance and not having a giant hunk of metal taking up most of the top of my case. Plus a closed loop will probably be a lot easier to install (unless it's push-pull, installing a old H50 in push-pull with no help was a huge pain).

 

[nicjac]

I'd be fine with the same cooling performance and not having a giant hunk of metal taking up most of the top of my case. Plus a closed loop will probably be a lot easier to install (unless it's push-pull, installing a old H50 in push-pull with no help was a huge pain).

Is the NH-D14 difficult to install? I watched a few videos and didn't appear to be overly complicated?

 

[mkenyon]

Hurry up, Steam Machine news. I want to know what's coming, how much, and when.

If you know how to build, there's no way they will be worth it.

I think they are more or less bikes with training wheels for the uninitiated.

 

[chaosblade]

Is the NH-D14 difficult to install? I watched a few videos and didn't appear to be overly complicated?

Nah, not really as long as you know what you're doing. I had installed a pretty big cooler (Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme) before so I had a general idea of what I was getting into. And the NH-D14 was actually easier than that one, IIRC.

Got that over a Silver Arrow, now there is a Silver Arrow Extreme which looks pretty insane.

 

[Bboy AJ]

If you know how to build, there's no way they will be worth it.

I think they are more or less bikes with training wheels for the uninitiated.

I hope it's something more than Alienware. The reveal is soon so at least we'll have all the information, especially for those of us about to build a new rig. I'm really interested in the controller, too.

 

[Exuro]

If you know how to build, there's no way they will be worth it.

I think they are more or less bikes with training wheels for the uninitiated.

Even if you know how to build, Steam Machines are going to come in even smaller form factors that you can't really get atm. I'd love to build a PC with Valve's case.

 

[tr4656]

I'd be fine with the same cooling performance and not having a giant hunk of metal taking up most of the top of my case. Plus a closed loop will probably be a lot easier to install (unless it's push-pull, installing a old H50 in push-pull with no help was a huge pain).

I guess. I personally didn't see much of a point in spending ~100$ for the same performance so I just upgraded to an open loop.

Even if you know how to build, Steam Machines are going to come in even smaller form factors that you can't really get atm. I'd love to build a PC with Valve's case.

Make the case yourself

 

[Dolken]

Even if you know how to build, Steam Machines are going to come in even smaller form factors that you can't really get atm. I'd love to build a PC with Valve's case.

There's the upcoming SilverStone RVZ01 which is similar in size.

 

[kennah]

Even if you know how to build, Steam Machines are going to come in even smaller form factors that you can't really get atm. I'd love to build a PC with Valve's case.[/QUOTE]
You can. Third case in the SFF build sheets in the OP.

 

[Exuro]

There's the upcoming SilverStone RVZ01 which is similar in size.

Looks pretty bad aesthetically but good to see more of this size on the market.

You can. Third case in the SFF build sheets in the OP.

That's one case. and it looks pretty bad aesthetically.

I guess. I personally didn't see much of a point in spending ~100$ for the same performance so I just upgraded to an open loop.



Make the case yourself

heh if I had a 3d printer I would

 

[BrLvgThrChmstry]

Hurry up, Steam Machine news. I want to know what's coming, how much, and when.



Hey, that's my build, heh. How much did it run you?

About $658.xx. Not too bad considering the percent we're taxed here in NYC/Westchester county. The videocard purchase will bring my total to around $1000 or less.

 

[kennah]

But yes. Nice to see the SFF revolution right now.

 

[TerryLee81]

Damn I'd love to build a new rig in a Air 540 case.

But it would be totally unreasonable, my current one is still running everything with no problems.

Maybe I should stop reading this thread!

Moved my parts from the Prodigy to a Define R4 I had lying around, just for fun.

 

[kennah]

Moved my parts from the Prodigy to a Define R4 I had lying around, just for fun.

Like throwing a hot dog down a hallway.

 

[Bboy AJ]

I can't find a reference cooled 4GB GTX 760. I can only find 2GB ones and this EVGA one, but it's OOS and replaced by an open air one. Can anyone help? I emailed EVGA to see if there are any options out there for me.

 

[TerryLee81]

Like throwing a hot dog down a hallway.

Yeah it looks empty in there. And the placement of the sata, usb3 etc. connectors on the mb are not ideal, it's empty in the case but still cramped in one corner.

Btw Anandtech posted a Rampage IV Black Edition review, there was someone a few pages back who wanted to buy one iirc:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7612/asus-rivbe

 

[metareferential]

New year, new thread, a new build for me!

The new specs are as follows (ram, gpu, hdd reused):

- i5 4670k
- corsair h60
- Asus Z-87 A
- 16gb ram
- Nvidia GTX Titan
- samsung ssd 840 basic 256gb (coupled with my old 1tb drive)
- coolermaster v700
- fractal define R4 (titanium gray)

Really happy so far.

 

[Copons]

Is it the Zotac AMP! one?

Don't think so.

It's this one anyway: http://www.e-key.it/prod-vga-zotac-...emory-gddr5-6008mhz-2gb-dvi-hdmi-dp-39117.htm (Italian site, but card specs are in English)

 

[mkenyon]

Even if you know how to build, Steam Machines are going to come in even smaller form factors that you can't really get atm. I'd love to build a PC with Valve's case.

Not totally true. The RVZ01 in the SFF guide is about the same size. There's a number of chassis like that.