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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Yeah, there's no difference (outside of high frequency/voltage temperatures) between the two.
They're already out. 5960X.
What are your plans for the PC for why you would need one? VMs or multimedia creation?
Iacobellis
Junior Member
Got it. Thanks.
fifasnipe2224
Member
Seems like both only go up to 512GB, not big enough for my steam library.
Do you really need the whole steam library installed? No high speed internet?
I used to enjoy it too, but then I dumped my mechanical HDDs for SSD only. Haven't regretted it since, and thats with only 240GB.
Crucial MX100 is like £300 for 1TB.
EmptySpace
Banned
gosh i soo want to build a pc now but seeing the mordor performance thread even the 970 is only 60 fps on high settings. ugh. not good enough even for the price. 780 was what, a couple of months back? i don't think it was worth 500 this year yet nvidia charged premium price only to come out a couple of months after with a card that's way better perf/watt.
Hmm I have a dilemma. I was set on the 4790K/Z97 combo for my needs, which is mostly gaming, regular usage, and Oculus Rift Development. However, I loaded up Unreal 4 for some development and it has been destroying my puny laptop processor. That's expected, but I'm wondering if engine development and coding would fall under multimedia creation, and I should go with the 5820K/X99 combo, or my current build would be sufficient for this.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
If you really really need/want all those games installed, leave them on your mechanical and only move the ones to the SSD that you are currently playing.
Just because 1 game doesnt run as well as you expect it doesnt mean you are going to have the same perforrmance in every other game coming.
Have you seen the Alien Isolation benchmarks? 100fps+ for some configs.
Now is a great time to build a Z97 GTX 970 machine.
fifasnipe2224
Member
Where? Max I see is 512
The 970 runs the game at more than 60fps on ultra with high textures. It's a killer card but as usual something better is always on the horizon.
http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Mittelerde-Mordors-Schatten-PC-258069/Specials/Test-Technik-1137829/
They are benchmarking actual gameplay apparently. As long as you have a decent CPU to feed it Mordor runs amazingly well, the PS4 is certainly not a 60fps average.
yeah just be careful about temps, that chip runs hot
Iacobellis
Junior Member
Say I want to boost it to 4.0-4.5 GHz, would an H60 be sufficient?
Ah wasnt the MX100, but M500
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-CT960M500SSD1-960GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B00BQ8RGL6
Its no simple answer anymore since the quality of the paste between the die and heatspreader is another lottery. Some chips run ridiculously hot even at sotck and no matter the cooling it doesnt help.
Remember the 4790K is 4Ghz all core turbo, 4.4Ghz single core turbo. So even if you can run something like 4,2Ghz all core turbo you are going to be faster.
On auto, it actually turbos all four cores to 4.4 Ghz.
Iacobellis
Junior Member
I decided to go with the 4770K instead to ensure compatibility with my board. I'm guessing the same applies there?
Oh, but that is against Intel spec and down to the motherboard then, i guess it also pushes excess Vcore here too? I havent had my hands on Haswell or DC to know for sure. Also if a board is doing this on DC, then it should do the same for 4770K at the respective clocks?
Either way i cant see this feature being optimum with how hot these chips run.
Yeah same applies.
Iacobellis
Junior Member
So what cooling solution (preferably Corsair) would be best to OC the chip to 4 GHz? And is there a way to disable Turbo Boost and keep it running at a single clock speed during any task? Unless that'd be a dumb thing to do.
It does not do the same with the 4770K, for whatever reason. Max boost is 3.9GHz.
Yes, it is dependent upon motherboards, but all Z87 (with DC BIOS update) and Z97 boards do it, TMK. Temps are fine since they improved the packaging materials. High, but fine.
Google "Sin's Z87 Overclocking Guide", and that'll give you some good information on how to tweak everything to be how you want it.
H60 is plenty for a 4.2-4.4GHz overclock, which is a pretty standard expectation of 4770Ks.
So what happens with stock cooler, 4790k all core turbo 4.4Ghz Video Encoding/Folding@Home? lol.
Iacobellis
Junior Member
I'll give it a look, thanks again. I assume most of this is BIOS based and would be fine on an OS X machine?
Should be OK, on my Hackintosh with X79 platform, the overclock doesnt apply on the Multiplier unless power managment is fixed.
Iacobellis
Junior Member
So what does that translate to in terms of clock speed?
I think they actually reduce speed if temps get too hot. To be honest though, I have no idea.
Yep.
Hey guys,
This is going to be my first time building a gaming PC by myself, so I need some advice.
Ive picked out most of my parts already except for a motherboard. There seems to be a lot of motherboards out there and I dont really know which one I should pick. Which one should I get based on the parts Im thinking of getting?
Also, any opinions on my current selection of parts would be greatly appreciated. If it helps, I have about a $2000 budget and can go a little more if I need to. I plan on getting ready to play Witcher 3.
My proposed build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($336.77 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($82.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($208.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($88.97 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($355.91 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Professional (OEM) (64-bit) ($142.97 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1466.55
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-03 15:07 EDT-0400
This is going to be my first time building a gaming PC by myself, so I need some advice.
Ive picked out most of my parts already except for a motherboard. There seems to be a lot of motherboards out there and I dont really know which one I should pick. Which one should I get based on the parts Im thinking of getting?
Also, any opinions on my current selection of parts would be greatly appreciated. If it helps, I have about a $2000 budget and can go a little more if I need to. I plan on getting ready to play Witcher 3.
My proposed build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($336.77 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($82.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($208.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($88.97 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($355.91 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Professional (OEM) (64-bit) ($142.97 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1466.55
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-03 15:07 EDT-0400
CreepingFear
Member
My PC wouldn't boot this morning. It would get to the windows loading screen and just hang. I opened up my computer and heard a clicking sound. We all know that is a bad sign to hear for hard drives. I have a Samsung 830 SSD as my boot/OS drive, 2TB Hitachi Drive, and a 2TB Seagate drive. I suspected it was the Seagate drive, since a report came out recently that their failure percentage was higher than WD and Hitachi. I unplugged the Seagate, but the clicking sound was still there and Windows still wouldn't boot. I re-plugged the Seagate and this time I unplugged the Hitachi drive. Bam, Windows booted! So, it was the Hitachi drive that went dead and was causing my computer not to boot. I'm pretty sad. The Hitachi drive was the first drive I put into this computer, before I could afford a SSD. It lasted me 3 and a half years though, which I guess is decent as far as Hard Drives go. Lesson learned though is that a dead hard drive, even if it isn't your boot drive, can cause a computer not to boot.
If the native power management doesnt work, then your CPU runs at All Core Turbo speed all the time. If you can patch the AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement.kext then you can have various results:
-Max Overclock Speed and Minimum CPU Speeds work
-Stock All Core Turbo Speed and all P (Power) States (Lower Frequencies) below it.
-Min speeds, P States work all the way up to the Overclock speed on all cores
Obviously you would strive for the last result. Usually there is some patch to make it work, and usually as soon as the standard Stock functionality is restored by AICPUPM patch then the overclock P States also function.
Patching usually involves replacing this Kext file (driver package) with a working solution for your platform.
Iacobellis
Junior Member
Man... it sounds like so much work!
It kind of takes some understanding on whats happening, ive been doing it for years now, so i can help you get it sorted for sure, i wouldnt worry too much.
Insanelymac forums is a really good resource, its very likely that all the Z87 boards use the exact same solution for the power management driver, so should be fine.
It definatly takes a little while to get all the kinks sorted.
Things to fix are usually, Audio, Blutooth/Wifi, LAN, 3rd Party SATA, Power Management.
But all of this usually requires replacement Kext files (drivers) to be copied over the originals or just added to the system.
I hope i dont scare you too much, but this is what youll need to read over
http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/295587-power-management-for-sandyivy-bridgehaswell-cpus/
Just involves copying some commands into the Terminal to patch these files inline, and also running the SSDT Generator script to make a custom SSDT for proper C/P States.
Made some changes. 550W PSU is more than enough. H100i is overkill on the consumer socket processors. H60 plenty for a realistic 4.2-4.6 overclock. This made room in the budget to go to 16GB of RAM while still saving money.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($336.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($62.62 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($136.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($144.49 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($143.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Rosewill Hive 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Professional (OEM) (64-bit)
Total: $1513.05
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-03 15:27 EDT-0400
Iacobellis
Junior Member
It definitely sounds worth it in the end, though. I love OS X too much to go back to Windows, and having a machine I can modify freely at anytime for a fraction of the cost sounds great.
One thing, would the onboard Bluetooth and Wi-Fi on my mobo work? I'm just hoping everything I'm reading now on Mavericks stays largely the same for Yosemite.
well...i already have my MX100 plugged into the first port, and i don't use any other drives. so that'd be fine with me.
I'm happy for you. I have a RAID array and another SSD (Samsung Evo 1 TGB - works great) so as you can imagine, upgrading the firmware in the Crucial was a pain in the ass.
I've been pretty impressed with the Samsung. As the Pros fall in price, I will be picking up new SSDs working toward a system that is completely free from traditional hard drives.
ha. yeah, no doubt. i think i'm gonna stick to 100% SSD on this build. right now, i only have the single 128GB in there due to budget concerns, but i'll be swapping in a 512GB in the next few weeks. otherwise, i think my 1TB external is more than enough for media, since so much is streamed (for me) these days.
i suppose i may have to reconsider once i make the move to primarily gaming on PC. right now PS4 is where most of it happens, but once i get my GPU installed, that'll start to change. i assume you can't put Steam games on an external drive?
fake edit: wait, couldn't i just crack open the enclosure and plug it into one of the SSD bays? they're just standard laptop 2.5 inch HDDs, right? WD MyPassport.
i suppose i may have to reconsider once i make the move to primarily gaming on PC. right now PS4 is where most of it happens, but once i get my GPU installed, that'll start to change. i assume you can't put Steam games on an external drive?
fake edit: wait, couldn't i just crack open the enclosure and plug it into one of the SSD bays? they're just standard laptop 2.5 inch HDDs, right? WD MyPassport.
You were answered and it's really hard to give good answers without knowing what country you are in.
Usually every thing carries over into the next OSX, no issues for me for years going through Mavericks to Yosemite too.
This post explains the Wifi and Bluetooth, again just need to paste the 2 Kext files over Kext Utility (app) that will install them for you.
http://www.tonymacx86.com/network/124717-bt-wifi-ga-z87x-ud5-th-few-questions-kangaroos-guide-2.html#post789045
zeroeffect
Member
Wouldn't mind seeing EVGA's 980 Classified or even just their regular ACX 2.0 at this point. Hope they come out real soon.
appaws
Banned
I don't think I can help you decide between upgrades and a PS4. I am waiting for particular pieces of software (Persona 5, Disgaea) before I pull the trigger on a PS$, but I will have to eventuallu.
As for the PC....I think a GPU and an SSD would be a great combination that would vastly improve your computing and PC gaming experience. What is your current setup again?
You are a very confusing poster...I have to say that I have no idea exactly what it is that you are looking for as far as buying/upgrading your rig.....
I'm sorry I didn't provide further background. I'm from Peru, and I'm on a rush because my parents will be on the US for a week starting tomorrow, so I needed to make a decision as soon as possible so my Amazon orders would arrive on time over there.
That would be:
-Intel i5 750 quad core 2.67
-GA P55A UD3P Gigabyte mobo
-2x500GB Seagate HDD 7200rpm
-8GB 1333mhz Corsair RAM
-Gigabyte ATI Radeon HD5770
I'm sorry if I bothered you guys, I'm at work the entire day so I got a little anxious that I wouldn't come up with an upgrade build on time.
Any tips on troubleshooting that?
Edit: Just got off the phone with MSI. Debug LED with no code is indication of either short or motherboard failure. Awesome.
Get a GTX 970 and a CPU cooler.
I do not
I'd give your motherboard AIB a call, see if you can start a support ticket for insight.
appaws
Banned
No, No. It's never a bother. We love helping. Where are your parents going? Maybe we can steer them to a Microcenter to buy something...?
Yeah, I would say that graphics card is at the top of the list to be replaced.
From a quick glance at Google, it seems that you could overclock that CPU pretty easily and pretty well. Do you have it OCed now, and what cooling do you have? Throw in a fairly inexpensive CPU cooler...?
Throw in an SSD for your OS and your current games you are playing.
Like this maybe:
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/XCMfVn
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/XCMfVn/by_merchant/
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($112.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $497.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-03 16:52 EDT-0400
Iacobellis
Junior Member
So that's all I have to do? Wow, that certainly saves me some money! I have a wired mouse and could just tether the computer to my phone as I patch the kext files.
Thanks for all your help! I'll be sure to message you if anything else comes up.
Actually, is the upgrade process the same as on a Mac through the App Store? Or is it much more in-depth like with Windows installations?
Hey guys, just reposting this. I had a 2 techs come by within a week to confirm that my signal was perfect and yet i'm still having upload issues. I just tried a different ethernet card with the same problem. Anyone else have any idea what it could be?
Given the intermittent nature, maybe try just wiggling the mobo around a little bit. Is it pressing against the side of the case? The only time I had an issue like this was with a cheap ass case that had metal in it that was touching the mobo in such a way that it was shorting.
Could try taking it out of the case completely and start it. Eliminate a short caused by the case or mounting.
Could just be failure though
You've tried:
Reformat
Different cable
Different NIC
Eliminating router as a variable
Only thing it could be after all of that is the actual cable modem or the ISP itself.
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