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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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Iacobellis

Junior Member
After monitoring my RAM usage over the last week or so, I've noticed that even when I have 10+ tabs with a movie in the background on one monitor, while playing a AAA game at Ultra on PC like BF4 or Mordor on the other monitor, my RAM usage never goes above 7-8 GB. Truly, my 16 is more overkill than I thought initially.

You think 16GB would be overkill on a machine running apps such as Final Cut, Photoshop and After Effects across two monitors?
 
ZxYzDfy.png

16GB here. NewsBlur is a 1.2GB tab on its own and the GPU process is another 1.8GB.
 
Is it still recommended to disable disk defrag for SSDs?

(Posting from my new rig btw :) sans dedicated GPU :( )
Yes. Defrag is for platter drives. SSDs don't save to a physical space on a disk that must be read mechanically, so defrag would serve no purpose other than shortening the drive's lifespan. Optimization, on the other hand, should be on.
 

xBladeM6x

Member
You think 16GB would be overkill on a machine running apps such as Final Cut, Photoshop and After Effects across two monitors?

Not overkill. It's what most people have. Some opt for 32GB but those are typically people with money to blow, and a youtube career.
 

LordAlu

Member
Hey guys, after trying an oculus demo recently I am interested in potentially getting back into having a 'good' PC but am very rusty and out of date on where things are. Although with my budget as it is, I am happy to 'get by' for now and buy a better graphics card down the line when the new generation has bedded in a bit. So lowering cost is the ideal path with enough of a foundation to upgrade in a year or so. Hopefully read the thread correctly and giving sufficient info.

Budget: £600-800 + UK
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming - 4, Gaming - 4, Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 1, Video Editing - 1, Streaming games in HD - 3, 3D/Model work (and what program) - 4, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5
Monitor Resolution: 1080p - Buying new monitors yeah, vertical dual display.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Oculus based games/demos on the DK2 is most of what I care about in terms of games, otherwise I am more of a console gamer.
Looking to reuse any parts?: I'll be moving harddrives over.
When will you build?: Before christmas
Will you be overclocking?: No

I have a white theme so limited in cases and I also want a small case profile (for moving, ease of use etc., desk size limit of 26cm) which limits things even further. With that in mind, this is what I have come up with from the PC parts picker:

PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/x3pjvK

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£150.79 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: SilenX EFZ-92HA2 54.0 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (£13.26 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: ASRock H61MV-ITX Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard (£38.68 @ CCL Computers)
Memory: Kingston Beast 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory (£137.09 @ CCL Computers)
Storage: Seagate 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive (£53.94 @ Aria PC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£71.94 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GT 740 4GB Superclocked Video Card (£78.48 @ Amazon UK)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (White) Mini ITX Tower Case (£64.99 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (£30.49 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £639.66


Thanks for any advice, fairly happy with that although the case is a tight squeeze. And for some reason they stuck all the power and such on the side so may have to work around that, maybe a power control screen to go into the CD drive bay? It would be light so can easily drag it out but things like usb's would be a pain. Obviously the video card isn't but for similar memory and newer cards, its a bit too much for me right now.
I just threw this together as I'm about to head to work but I'm sure Kharma will have a look at this more closely for you. Something like this might be a better choice:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£171.54 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 45.0 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (£15.50 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard (£93.56 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£116.03 @ CCL Computers)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£51.94 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R7 265 2GB Video Card (£118.58 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case (£54.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£55.99 @ Aria PC)
Total: £718.12
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-04 07:45 BST+0100
 

Iacobellis

Junior Member
Not overkill. It's what most people have. Some opt for 32GB but those are typically people with money to blow, and a youtube career.

Thanks, 16GB it is then. I've been doing research on the matter and am surprised at how editing software is willing to eat up as much available RAM at default settings.
 

Iacobellis

Junior Member
2 minutes of of uncompressed video frames is a gigabyte of RAM.

Hoo boy. Is that similar to RAW footage shot on a Canon with Magic Lantern? If so, I shouldn't have to worry about that too much as there still isn't support for the 70D!

Oh, and another Hackintosh question for anybody out there. How do the function keys work on an Apple Keyboard? Would things such as brightness and volume control work out of the box, or does that require new drivers as well?

Also, (I know, so many questions!) what would be an ideal cooling solution in the NZXT S340? I was thinking either the H80i or H100i, but now I'm seeing in the post literally below that the latter solution would just be overkill. If anyone has this case, would the radiator even fit properly? I'm fine with doing either the top or front.
 

Darkone

Member
Well Gaf sold my old parts and upgarded to a new PC, this is my new Spec:

Intel core i7-4790K
Gigabyte Z97X-SLI
GTX 970 Gigabyte
8GB memory (1600mhz)
750W PSU Seasonic (Kept it from my previous PC)

Now i currently have the standard CPU cooling system that comes with it and no other fan in my Case, any advise on what cooling i should consider on adding?
CPU is getting to temperature of 77 and i am betting that the GPU should use some cooling as well.

Don't think i will be doing OC for the CPU anytime soon.

Thanks
 

kennah

Member
Hoo boy. Is that similar to RAW footage shot on a Canon with Magic Lantern? If so, I shouldn't have to worry about that too much as there still isn't support for the 70D!

Oh, and another Hackintosh question for anybody out there. How do the function keys work on an Apple Keyboard? Would things such as brightness and volume control work out of the box, or does that require new drivers as well?

Also, (I know, so many questions!) what would be an ideal cooling solution in the NZXT S340? I was thinking either the H80i or H100i, but now I'm seeing in the post literally below that the latter solution would just be overkill. If anyone has this case, would the radiator even fit properly? I'm fine with doing either the top or front.
Just buy an apple keyboard for your hackintosh.
 

LilJoka

Member
Out of curiosity, how well does hackintosh handle sensors for CPU voltage and fan speeds and things like that? I don't know which Super I/O chips Apple uses, but how are the others handled? How fast is the community usually if a manufacturer changes something?

Its community based work. The main things work like CPU Frequency per Core, Vcore, Fan speeds, HDD Temps, GPU Temps, Some board temp sensors, and sometimes the PSU voltages too.

http://sourceforge.net/projects/hwsensors/

Manufacturers cant change the micorcontollers on boards already released, so it would only be an issue if new motherboards/series arrived, i can only give a guess here, but usually a month or so.
 

Addnan

Member
anybody know of a very good 120 hz monitor without breaking the bank ?

What's your budget? All the decent ones are all similarly priced. Around $250-300 for the smaller sizes, Asus VG248QE is $260 at Amazon. The 1440p Asus is way more and the 27" 1080p start going up in price too.
 

jfoul

Member
Anybody have experience with Toshiba Hard Drives? Newegg has the TOSHIBA DT01ACA300 3TB for $89.99 until 10.5.14.
 

LilJoka

Member
Hoo boy. Is that similar to RAW footage shot on a Canon with Magic Lantern? If so, I shouldn't have to worry about that too much as there still isn't support for the 70D!

Oh, and another Hackintosh question for anybody out there. How do the function keys work on an Apple Keyboard? Would things such as brightness and volume control work out of the box, or does that require new drivers as well?

Also, (I know, so many questions!) what would be an ideal cooling solution in the NZXT S340? I was thinking either the H80i or H100i, but now I'm seeing in the post literally below that the latter solution would just be overkill. If anyone has this case, would the radiator even fit properly? I'm fine with doing either the top or front.

Function keys should work out of box.
 

Thorgal

Member
What's your budget? All the decent ones are all similarly priced. Around $250-300 for the smaller sizes, Asus VG248QE is $260 at Amazon. The 1440p Asus is way more and the 27" 1080p start going up in price too.

While not really restrained by a budget , 500€ is what i would take as the limit .

I am currently looking at my local store and they currently have these in stock :

IIYAMA GB2773HS

BENQ XL2720Z

ACER XB270HABPRZ

Are any of these good ?
 

Garruson

Member
So I'm not getting a mac, looking to get a gaming pc instead, no idea what I'm doing, though. Using Pcspecialist.co.uk and have:

COOLERMASTER CM STORM TROOPER - GAMING ENTHUSIAST CASE

Processor (CPU)
Intel® Core™i7 Quad Core Processor i7-4790k (4.0GHz) 8MB Cache

Motherboard
ASUS® Z97M-PLUS: m-ATX, USB3.0, SATA 6.0, XFIRE

Memory (RAM)
16GB KINGSTON HYPER-X FURY DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (2 x 8GB)

Graphics Card
4GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 970 - 1 DVI, 1 mHDMI, 3 mDP - 3D Vision Ready

1st Hard Disk
120GB KINGSTON V300 SSD, SATA 6 Gb (450MB/R, 450MB/W)

2nd Hard Disk
1TB 3.5" SATA-III 6GB/s HDD 7200RPM 32MB CACHE

1st DVD/BLU-RAY Drive
16x BLU-RAY WRITER DRIVE, 16x DVD ±R/±RW

Power Supply
CORSAIR 550W VS SERIES™ VS-550 POWER SUPPLY

Processor Cooling
INTEL STANDARD CPU COOLER

Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)

Wireless/Wired Networking
DUAL-BAND WIRELESS 802.11N 450Mbps PCI-E CARD (£28)

Operating System
Genuine Windows 8.1 64 Bit - inc DVD & Licence (£79)



So is this overkill, could I select some lower options to save a bit of money? Will the blu-ray drive play 3D discs? Also what sort of games can I expect to play on this and at what settings?

It comes to £1,265.00 inc VAT and Delivery.from pcspecialist.co.uk, thanks gaf
 

Addnan

Member
It comes to £1,265.00 inc VAT and Delivery.from pcspecialist.co.uk, thanks gaf

The case is overkill then using an MATX board with it. Get something cheaper and smaller. The Corsair 200R is enough. Add the cooler master CPU heat sink. Change to Samsung SSD because pretty sure the Kingston has changed and is now bad. Drop RAM down to 8GB if you want to save a bit more. PSU personally wouldn't get the VS series or recommend it to anyone, it's entry level with high end parts.
 
So my 24" BenQ monitor died today. :(

I'm looking at potential replacements. So far I've found three Asus monitors.

Asus VE228HR
ASUS VE247H
ASUS VE248H

I need something that is passable for graphics work but has sub one frame of input lag. My budget will be something like £150, or £200 if it's a legitimate graphics design panel with sub one frame lag.
 

Garruson

Member
Hmmm, would someone be able to help me build one then, as I really don't know a lot - I know what I want, something that can play the latest and future games at the highest settings but I don't want to buy something where it will just heat up too much and or will not use everything it has, the site I'm using also didn't have some of the options suggested
 

UrbanRats

Member
What's the difference between a GV-N970WF3OC-4G and a GV-N970G1-G14D?

Am i right in assuming the second one is a "G1 Gaming" edition and has a stock higher clock? Because the former is actually available and at a lower price to boot, but the site doesn't hold any further info.
 

garath

Member
What's the difference between a GV-N970WF3OC-4G and a GV-N970G1-G14D?

Am i right in assuming the second one is a "G1 Gaming" edition and has a stock higher clock? Because the former is actually available and at a lower price to boot, but the site doesn't hold any further info.

Correct. The second one is the G1 gaming edition with the better cooler.
 
So I went to bed last night without really figuring out if I was doing something wrong with this whole OC business.

My last tested settings were 1.5V for the RAM, 1.25V for the CPU, with a 42x multiplier.

I'm using an i5-4690k.

I read on several places that I should run Prime95's "Small FFTs" test, but even at just 4.2GHz I was hitting 90+ degrees before you know. That can't possibly be stable or good.

The thing is, the guide in the OT says that an easy way to test where your chip falls on the bell curve is to set CPU Vcore to 1.2V, and the multiplier to 46, and if it boots, you're in the top 50th percentile. That's the first thing I did and it booted with no issues.

Am I doing something wrong with the testing or did I just get a total dog of a chip?

Edit:

I was reading this article about Devil's Canyon: http://www.anandtech.com/show/8227/devils-canyon-review-intel-core-i7-4790k-and-i5-4690k/2

This guy recommends to run POV-Ray for 5 minutes rather than attempting to destroy your system with Prime95. I ran the benchmark and got 69c as my top temp @ 4.2GHz which seems to be much better, but the last time I did this was like four years ago and I just set a preset profile and called it good so I have no idea if I'm on the right track.
 

ricki42

Member
So I went to bed last night without really figuring out if I was doing something wrong with this whole OC business.

My last tested settings were 1.5V for the RAM, 1.25V for the CPU, with a 42x multiplier.

I'm using an i5-4690k.

I read on several places that I should run Prime95's "Small FFTs" test, but even at just 4.2GHz I was hitting 90+ degrees before you know. That can't possibly be stable or good.

The thing is, the guide in the OT says that an easy way to test where your chip falls on the bell curve is to set CPU Vcore to 1.2V, and the multiplier to 46, and if it boots, you're in the top 50th percentile. That's the first thing I did and it booted with no issues.

Am I doing something wrong with the testing or did I just get a total dog of a chip?

What kind of cooler are you using?
Have you tried lowering the core voltage below 1.25V, or was it just not stable at lower voltage?
 

Amneisac

Member
So I went to bed last night without really figuring out if I was doing something wrong with this whole OC business.

My last tested settings were 1.5V for the RAM, 1.25V for the CPU, with a 42x multiplier.

I'm using an i5-4690k.

I read on several places that I should run Prime95's "Small FFTs" test, but even at just 4.2GHz I was hitting 90+ degrees before you know. That can't possibly be stable or good.

The thing is, the guide in the OT says that an easy way to test where your chip falls on the bell curve is to set CPU Vcore to 1.2V, and the multiplier to 46, and if it boots, you're in the top 50th percentile. That's the first thing I did and it booted with no issues.

Am I doing something wrong with the testing or did I just get a total dog of a chip?

Edit:

I was reading this article about Devil's Canyon: http://www.anandtech.com/show/8227/devils-canyon-review-intel-core-i7-4790k-and-i5-4690k/2

This guy recommends to run POV-Ray for 5 minutes rather than attempting to destroy your system with Prime95. I ran the benchmark and got 69c as my top temp @ 4.2GHz which seems to be much better, but the last time I did this was like four years ago and I just set a preset profile and called it good so I have no idea if I'm on the right track.

I read the same article, had a similar experience to yours and just tried my own method. I set the core voltage to 1.1 (with a teeny tiny offset) and then just upped the voltage and tested its stability. I've never had a crash at 1.1v and 4.3 ghz:


I could probably eek out a little bit more, but I don't see a reason right now. I'm pretty conservative with overclocks.
 
What kind of cooler are you using?
Have you tried lowering the core voltage below 1.25V, or was it just not stable at lower voltage?

I'm using the Coolermaster 212 Evo or whatever it's called. I haven't tried lowering it because so many guides seemed to imply that 1.25V was the perfect voltage and it seemed like running less was a bad thing, unless I'm totally wrong. In retrospect it makes sense that if you're pumping more voltage you're going to run hotter. Derp.

I read the same article, had a similar experience to yours and just tried my own method. I set the core voltage to 1.1 (with a teeny tiny offset) and then just upped the voltage and tested its stability. I've never had a crash at 1.1v and 4.3 ghz:



I could probably eek out a little bit more, but I don't see a reason right now. I'm pretty conservative with overclocks.

I think I might try lowering the voltage now.

I ran OCCT and POVRay for 5 minutes at 4.2 with 1.25V and maxed at 73c

Which Prime95 test did you run? Small FFTs it looks like, right?

New Results: OCCT and POVRAY 5 mins at 4.2 with 1.1V = 60c. Much better. I'm going to check Prime95 and see what happens as well, then I might bump up the multiplier. Prime95 Small FFTs capped at 73c.

I'm now at 1.1V @4.3GHz, rerunning OCCT and POV, if they maintain similar temps, I'll test Prime again and see how many times I can repeat this before it gets uncomfortable.

Btw, thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it. Really felt like I was shooting in the dark last night.

1.1V @4.3GHz: 61c on OCCT and POV, 77c on Small FFTs in Prime95. I may just stop here and bump it up if I actually run into a bottleneck down the line. Somehow I doubt I will though since I don't do any video transcoding really.
 

NOKYARD

Member
Soooooo...

I purchased a Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 video card, and a EVGA Supernova 750 G2 power supply from NCIX Canada.

At the bottom of the confirmation email there was this note:
Congratulations on the purchase of your new video card. Enjoy 10% off the purchase of a power supply using the coupon below if you order within the next 7 days!
Coupon: Coupon############
Redeem by: 15-Oct-14
1 coupon per transaction

Problem is you can't apply the coupon to the already purchased power supply, and the Supernova had already arrived by the time i got the email so i couldn't cancel/reorder.

Any Canadians here seriously purchasing a power supply in the next few days and want the coupon code? (PM me) I can't guarantee it will work but you can try.
 

Iacobellis

Junior Member
Asking this again:

Also, (I know, so many questions!) what would be an ideal cooling solution in the NZXT S340? I was thinking either the H80i or H100i, but now I'm seeing in the post literally below that the latter solution would just be overkill. If anyone has this case, would the radiator even fit properly? I'm fine with doing either the top or front.
 
It's available elsewhere for cheaper.

They had it for less a few weeks ago.

Yeah, I know but it's kinda silly. I've looked on there the past month and it's always at that price. Everywhere else sells it just under $100. It's annoying because I plan on getting all my parts from Amazon since I have Prime and I also have some gift cards. Just curious as to why they feel the need to charge another $40 premium over everyone else. They don't do that on other PC parts.

TBH though, that case at $140 is probably still good value when you think about it.
 
Yeah, I know but it's kinda silly. I've looked on there the past month and it's always at that price. Everywhere else sells it just under $100. It's annoying because I plan on getting all my parts from Amazon since I have Prime and I also have some gift cards. Just curious as to why they feel the need to charge another $40 premium over everyone else. They don't do that on other PC parts.

TBH though, that case at $140 is probably still good value when you think about it.

It's a fantastic case. Cable management was fantastic when I was setting it up last night, and it's just well built and well laid out. The fans are very quiet also.
 

ricki42

Member
I'm using the Coolermaster 212 Evo or whatever it's called. I haven't tried lowering it because so many guides seemed to imply that 1.25V was the perfect voltage and it seemed like running less was a bad thing, unless I'm totally wrong. In retrospect it makes sense that if you're pumping more voltage you're going to run hotter. Derp.

I think a lot of guides are written based on better coolers. I have a 4790k (4.0GHz base and 4.4 GHz boost), and read some guide saying to start with 1.2V at 4.4GHz. I couldn't get anywhere near that with Hyper 212 Evo, at least not under sustained load. I got to 4.3GHz at 1.11V, and that seemed to run fairly stable but also getting over 80C.
Then I read fluffydelusions' post about his experience with the Noctua NH-D14, decided I need that in my life, and now 1.2V is suddenly not a problem anymore. Currently testing 4.7GHz at 1.29V and temperature is not a problem yet.
 
So I want to do an overclock for my PC that I've had for about 2 years now; specs as follows -

-i5-3570K with Hyper 212 EVO
-Asus P8Z77-V motherboard

About 3 months ago, I was messing around with the BIOS after reading the OC guide in the OP, and was totally confused mostly because the guide was for a Gigabyte board, which shows different BIOS options than my ASUS. I ended up finding an option that I think was 'turbo boost' or something, and enabled it.

So I guess I'm looking for a better guide for the overclocking, and a way to reset the processor to stock values before doing an overclock.

I'm not looking to push my processor to the limit, as I'm not that confident I'll do it safely, but I'd like to try to get it to 3.9-4.0 and leave it there.
 
I think a lot of guides are written based on better coolers. I have a 4790k (4.0GHz base and 4.4 GHz boost), and read some guide saying to start with 1.2V at 4.4GHz. I couldn't get anywhere near that with Hyper 212 Evo, at least not under sustained load. I got to 4.3GHz at 1.11V, and that seemed to run fairly stable but also getting over 80C.
Then I read fluffydelusions' post about his experience with the Noctua NH-D14, decided I need that in my life, and now 1.2V is suddenly not a problem anymore. Currently testing 4.7GHz at 1.29V and temperature is not a problem yet.

I ended up settling on 4.4GHz at 1.108V. Prime95 capped right at 80c. I think I'm ok with that until I feel like getting a better cooler/more fans/whatever.
 

zma1013

Member
I've heard that even though some cards have 4GBs of vram, they aren't fast enough to actually use it all. Is this correct? Would a 760 with 4GB vram be fast enough to use it all?
 

ricki42

Member
I ended up settling on 4.4GHz at 1.108V. Prime95 capped right at 80c. I think I'm ok with that until I feel like getting a better cooler/more fans/whatever.

How long did you let it run? I think some people say 24 hours to make sure it's stable. I haven't done that yet, just an hour or two, and sometimes it crashes after 50min or so.
 

Marc

Member
I just threw this together as I'm about to head to work but I'm sure Kharma will have a look at this more closely for you. Something like this might be a better choice:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£171.54 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 45.0 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (£15.50 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard (£93.56 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£116.03 @ CCL Computers)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£51.94 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R7 265 2GB Video Card (£118.58 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case (£54.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£55.99 @ Aria PC)
Total: £718.12
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-04 07:45 BST+0100

Cool, thanks for that. Will look into it in more depth, but got a couple of initial questions.

- Does it need that much power, 550W vs the 430W I had down as the power estimate suggests it is overkill unless it is to cover potential crossfire usage?

- For videocards, I know the one you picked is GDDR5 but is quantity not needed now going forward? So 4GB and up? Also running two screens and multiple windows (i.e firefox with shit load of tabs, itunes, photoshop and say unity with a lot of resources potentially).

- For the storage I need more size so would probably keep close to what I selected.


On the motherboard/case format, I am not set in stone on a mini ITX, just on a smallish profile that is generally white. And yeah the the limit 26cm width for the case. Hadn't seen that fractal case before, will check out some videos on it. I mostly picked the Prodigy case as it was laid out so simply, makes it easier to put together and maintain since I am rusty. Had looked at the case NZXT H230 but its really long, got like a 440mm limit length wise. My desk is a pain in the arse for holding a PC but the rest is great so kinda stuck.
 
I've never seen a 6-pin connector on a motherboard...only 20+4/24/8/4...I'm guessing that's to supply extra power to GPUs and uses a PCI-E connection?
 

longdi

Banned
How long did you let it run? I think some people say 24 hours to make sure it's stable. I haven't done that yet, just an hour or two, and sometimes it crashes after 50min or so.

24hours P95 is nonsense and puts your CPU/Motherboard in unneeded risks. You can pass 24Hrs and still get a BSOD with opening more Chrome tabs while doing a AV scan.

Just do a quick 20 times full ram tests, then do some multi-tasking tests like encode a videos or run loops of cinebench, AV scans while surfing NGAF with multiple tabs, then play some MP games and if all is fine, you can close the case and continue with normal uses.
 
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