-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Assuming non reference design,
Gigabyte (highest stock clock, but card is big) and MSI (quietest, good at overclocking, but consumes more power when overclocked) are your best choices.
I just upgraded my ram to 8 gb Crucial Ballistix Tactical. Replaced the stock cooler with a Mugen 4 and OC'd my i7 920 to 4 ghz. Running a stress test with Prime 95 the temperature seems to be hovering around 83 degrees celcius. Is that within reason? When I tried it with WoW it was around 50 degrees.
Also, would it make sense to put a 970 in there to replace my AMD 6850? My processor wouldn't bottleneck it would it?
I'm hoping to get a few more years out of my system this way and replace it completely once the new tech comes out.
Also, would it make sense to put a 970 in there to replace my AMD 6850? My processor wouldn't bottleneck it would it?
I'm hoping to get a few more years out of my system this way and replace it completely once the new tech comes out.
opticalmace
Member
What is your vcore (in CPU-Z) under p95? What are your idle temps?
WhirlwindMonk
Banned
I upgraded my computer internals a little while back and next up is a rather desperately needed upgrade for my monitors. I've got a dual monitor setup, both of them matching bargain 20" deals I got from Best Buy on sale like 6 or 7 years back. I'd like to upgrade to one of the new, fancy 24" 120/144 Hz G-Sync monitors, but I really only have the budget for one of those right now. Will having a second, non-g-sync compatible, 60 Hz monitor hooked up cause any issues?
Vcore is 1.360. It's idling at around 45 at the moment but it's just coming off the stress test. I hope I didn't mess up seating the heat sink but I don't think I did.
Edit: It seems to have dropped a bit now. 40 degrees idle and with P95 at full load it goes to about 80 per core.
It's pretty much perfectly stable on my test system, but it isn't even remotely finished, so I'd advice against using it as a primary OS.
How so? I only use my system for web browsing, XBMC, and Steam. I don't have a home office, so there's nothing super vital (and my 'library' is all on my D drive anyway). I'm currently copying over C:/Users to it and downloading the ISO as we speak.
Its also full of "spyware" that sends data to MS, since its a preview thats ok, but imo not really to be used as a full time OS.
Best to just try it in VMware.
Hmm. I might just reinstall Windows 8.1 then.
TMONSTER
Member
Just a heads up for Samsung EVO SSD owners, their performance firmware for their slowdown issues just came up.
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/samsungssd/downloads.html
Scroll to "Samsung 840 EVO restoration software"
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/samsungssd/downloads.html
Scroll to "Samsung 840 EVO restoration software"
Great that samsung delivered, but i wonder how adjusting their wear leveling routine will effect the lifespan of the drive.
I'll run a backup tonight then do the 840 EVO tool and make a thread on it unless someone else does.
If there are any alternative suggestions let me know. I considered HIVE 550, ARC M550, BP550 (old), Neo ECO (old and DOA rates), CX500/600M and just about every PSU in the 500-600W range. I'm not up to speed on UK/EU stock but I do see Amazon.co.uk has the 520 EVO. I'd like another alternative if possible like the XFX 650W XXX seems good and is the same price as the 520 EVO and is semi modular.
Newegg doesn't even list the EVO as a different part in the US it just replaced it and now says 'FULL MODULAR' which is the EVO. I think it's the same PSU internally anyway.
If there are any alternative suggestions let me know. I considered HIVE 550, ARC M550, BP550 (old), Neo ECO (old and DOA rates), CX500/600M and just about every PSU in the 500-600W range. I'm not up to speed on UK/EU stock but I do see Amazon.co.uk has the 520 EVO. I'd like another alternative if possible like the XFX 650W XXX seems good and is the same price as the 520 EVO and is semi modular.
Yeah since mobo's got condensed it is a good idea, just need to slog through those.
OP
Glitchesarecool
Member
I just built my first system less than a year ago and these kinds of topics and updates make me want to build another one.
I just don't have the spare change for it.
I just don't have the spare change for it.
Arren
Member
Since my last post within this thread, I've tried to gather further information on the general coherence, quality, availability and possible drawbacks of the components for this setup.
I suppose I have managed to achieve an appropriate balance that satisfies my intents and tastes, but of course any suggestion and insight is always very appreciated. In evaluating this build, consider that this is not meant to be a simple gaming platform, but more of a powerful, mainly multimedia-oriented machine, that will also hopefully serve me efficiently enough as a system dedicated to video and audio production.
Just a few questions: would the Coolermaster V700 be appropriate in order to sustain this system well from an energy standpoint? I understand that single-GPU systems usually don't require hefty amounts of power, but considering that my build includes a capture card, a Blu-ray drive and three storage disks I would like to be absolutely sure.
Furthermore, would I need some additional fans, besides the ones already included with the R2 XL case, in order to provide consistent cooling to all of these components?
Thanks in advance for any support.
I suppose I have managed to achieve an appropriate balance that satisfies my intents and tastes, but of course any suggestion and insight is always very appreciated. In evaluating this build, consider that this is not meant to be a simple gaming platform, but more of a powerful, mainly multimedia-oriented machine, that will also hopefully serve me efficiently enough as a system dedicated to video and audio production.
Just a few questions: would the Coolermaster V700 be appropriate in order to sustain this system well from an energy standpoint? I understand that single-GPU systems usually don't require hefty amounts of power, but considering that my build includes a capture card, a Blu-ray drive and three storage disks I would like to be absolutely sure.
Furthermore, would I need some additional fans, besides the ones already included with the R2 XL case, in order to provide consistent cooling to all of these components?
Thanks in advance for any support.
I purchased 2 980s to replace my 780s, ended up getting a great resale deal. I figure unless I get a similar deal, I'm good until Intel releases their Cannonlake CPUs.
First, I want to say that 980s are quiet! The fans don't even need to spin at idle, and I'm averaging ~130 less watts. I haven't had a fanless (or non-running fan) card since 2001!
Second, Rome II must be incredibly CPU dependent. At 1200p max settings I averaged 75.6fps in the benchmark with my 780s. With the 980s I average 78.2. It also still says I only have 3GB of VRAM, but checking the "unlimited memory" box hopefully makes that irrelevant. Metro Last Light's a much better improvement. 126fps vs. 65, so at least I know the cards are working.
First, I want to say that 980s are quiet! The fans don't even need to spin at idle, and I'm averaging ~130 less watts. I haven't had a fanless (or non-running fan) card since 2001!
Second, Rome II must be incredibly CPU dependent. At 1200p max settings I averaged 75.6fps in the benchmark with my 780s. With the 980s I average 78.2. It also still says I only have 3GB of VRAM, but checking the "unlimited memory" box hopefully makes that irrelevant. Metro Last Light's a much better improvement. 126fps vs. 65, so at least I know the cards are working.
turnernader
Neo Member
I just finished my build but i'm thinking of making the change from windows 7 to 8.1 would it be worth it and is there really any improvements on gaming
All looks fine. You can stick another 970 in there and power wise it will be fine. Other components don't use much power.
Built my new PC last night, and everything seems to be working all ok 
Thankyou to everyone on here who helped me pick the best parts for my build!
Thankyou to everyone on here who helped me pick the best parts for my build!
- Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
- Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler
- Gigabyte GA-Z97X-GAMING 7 Motherboard
- Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
- Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
- Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
- Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
- Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (2-Way SLI)
- EVGA G2 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
- Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
- Microsoft Windows 8.1 (64-bit)
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=912869
Thread already made
Yeah seems to just be a minor update to support the lower power draw that Haswell can offer, and obviously adding fully modular cabling.
It's not very price competitive on the UK though, the 520w version is the same price as the Be Quiet! L8 630w. The 530w L8 is £10/$16 cheaper http://www.scan.co.uk/products/530w...d-modular-80-plus-bronze-1x120mm-atx-v231-psu
Wouldn't go near those Corsair CX's for the OP in that range. What I've found with the US market, unlike the UK, is that prices change so much with rebates etc. One moment you've something like an EVGA B2 in this price range and then it's shot off. At the minute the Antec HCG 620 modular is $50 but then in a week or so it'll have gone.
Only a few really stick within this bracket like the CX's and the Hive's. Makes the choice for the OP hard :\ UK one is easy enough imo with the L8 530w at £50.
appaws
Banned
Built my new PC last night, and everything seems to be working all ok
- Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
- Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler
- Gigabyte GA-Z97X-GAMING 7 Motherboard
- Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
- Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
- Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
- Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
- Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (2-Way SLI)
- EVGA G2 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
- Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
- Microsoft Windows 8.1 (64-bit)
Looks good. That's some top of the line stuff. Enjoy.
Soodanim
Member
It probably won't get seen on the last page, so forgive me for asking again, but:
Does anyone have experience with either the Z97-A from Asus or the Z97 Extreme4 from ASRock? Both seem good and I can't choose.
Does anyone have experience with either the Z97-A from Asus or the Z97 Extreme4 from ASRock? Both seem good and I can't choose.
Would you recommend that over a Corsair? I think the one in my PCPP list is a CX600M, and they're the same price. For a 4690k/970 build that is estimated at (IIRC) somewhere around mid-high 300s.
Yes Sir
zeroeffect
Member
Saw i7 4790k for $300 on Amazon earlier...not sure if that deal is still going on cell right now
I'd get the Be Quiet! For a 970 build the 530w is plenty.
I may be in the market for a new HDD/SSD soon (as Windows says one of my drives is failing.)
I see MX100s are being touted as the go-to SSD in this thread. Is that the current best in relation to the competition?
Also, what brand of hard drive do you guys think is the most reliable? I currently have a Seagate 1TB. If I need to replace my HDD, I'll probably opt for a 2TB model.
Thanks in advance.
I see MX100s are being touted as the go-to SSD in this thread. Is that the current best in relation to the competition?
Also, what brand of hard drive do you guys think is the most reliable? I currently have a Seagate 1TB. If I need to replace my HDD, I'll probably opt for a 2TB model.
Thanks in advance.
MX100 are the best value. Samsung Pro 840/850 for performance.
As for HDD, there isn't a go to brand. Buy whatever is cheap. Just avoid the WD Greens.
appaws
Banned
Just on brand quality I would probably choose the Asus.
That being said, Techreport had a review of a different Asrock mobo today, the Extreme6. The review was pretty positive in general and indicated that the board had high-end features for a mid-range price....may be worth you checking out:
http://techreport.com/review/27181/asrock-z97-extreme6-motherboard-reviewed
RadioactiveLobster
Member
So anyone here have experience with NCIXUS.com and their shipping?
I ordered 3 items, all on the same order, on the same day.
Got a tracking number on the 13th and figured that was my order, is going to be here on the 17th.
Just got 2 more tracking numbers, one shows the 14th and the other shows the 15th (for the "Label Created On" dates) with no "scheduled delivery date" for either of them, both are just the "A Label has been created" and don't even show that it's at UPS yet.
What the fuck NCIX? 3 items coming from the same fucking place shipped in 3 different packages on 3 separate fucking days? Are you fucking kidding me?
I paid extra for 3 day shipping. I understand a delay due to the weekend, since I placed the order on a Saturday and I can even understand stuff not going out the morning of the 13th since it was a Federal Holiday but what the fuck?
I ordered 3 items, all on the same order, on the same day.
Got a tracking number on the 13th and figured that was my order, is going to be here on the 17th.
Just got 2 more tracking numbers, one shows the 14th and the other shows the 15th (for the "Label Created On" dates) with no "scheduled delivery date" for either of them, both are just the "A Label has been created" and don't even show that it's at UPS yet.
What the fuck NCIX? 3 items coming from the same fucking place shipped in 3 different packages on 3 separate fucking days? Are you fucking kidding me?
I paid extra for 3 day shipping. I understand a delay due to the weekend, since I placed the order on a Saturday and I can even understand stuff not going out the morning of the 13th since it was a Federal Holiday but what the fuck?
IAmRandom31
Banned
Built my new PC last night, and everything seems to be working all ok
- Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
- Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler
- Gigabyte GA-Z97X-GAMING 7 Motherboard
- Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
- Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
- Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
- Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
- Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card (2-Way SLI)
- EVGA G2 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
- Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
- Microsoft Windows 8.1 (64-bit)
Awesome. How long before you are posting in the screenshot thread? Lol
Felix Lighter
Member
I've used them a few times but this was my only experience with ordering from them and paying for shipping:
I had an i7 950 running at 4ghz with HT on for the last 2-3 years on noctua dh14. Temps were around 77C under load at 1.375 when I first installed the cooler. Low 80s after a year (too lazy to clean pc and reapply paste). You can drop 10C if you turn off HT but I don't recommend it.
Very noobish question since my GPU comes in tomorrow:
Where the hell do I plug in the EVGA GTX 970 to the PSU?
This is the PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438017
Where the hell do I plug in the EVGA GTX 970 to the PSU?
This is the PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438017
One of the cables for the power supply should have a connector with 6 or 8 pins on it. You'll need to plug that into the video card, and there might be a second one so you may have a total of 2 cables plugged into the card. The cables will go into the power supply, normally labeled video or VGA.
There should be a set of PSU cables marked "PCI-E", those are the ones you want.
Ah ok, thank you! So I have to find those wires that came with the PSU? Hopefully it'll all become clear when I can visualize it tomorrow as everything else seems pretty easy (I hope).
Yep. I looked up a review of your power supply, Portman is correct, the cables you need are labeled "VGA" in your case (my Seasonic power supply has them labeled "PCI-E").
Goldenmoney
Member
Anyone have suggestions for decent computer speakers? Don't need anything amazing. Hope to stay under $100. 2.1 channel.
Currently looking at the logitech z323's.
Currently looking at the logitech z323's.
Needing a miracle folks.
Just finished a new build yesterday around 4pm. Installed Windows 8.1, all drivers and updates and such. Got an hour of gaming in and shut it down before bed around Midnight. I got home from work today and, on suggestion of a friend, ran Prime95 to make sure everything was stable in case I needed to RMA anything with Newegg. I ran it for just over an hour and decided that was good enough for the moment. CPU temp lows around 15C. Peaked at a high of 85C. No errors. Checked Facebook and GAF and then I switched over to my couch to watch a movie on my PS4. I got twenty minutes into the movie and hear the optical drive spinning in the computer (it's an older drive I threw in for OS installation purposes). I turn around to see it rebooting. I watched it for a moment thinking "Golly, I wonder why it's rebooting." Suddenly everything went dark and it restarted again. I jumped up and flipped off the power supply as soon as I could. I opened it up, took a look around, felt various components to see if anything was alarmingly hot. Everything seemed ok, so I tried to start it up again. A few flashes of light and then nothing. I took the RAM and GPU out, disconnected all cables from the motherboard and started one piece at a time. I even checked the seating of the CPU and then cleaned it and reapplied TIM. Plugged fans and case connections back in. Tried to POST with no RAM and got the three long beeps and debug message on motherboard came on indicating everything was working up to the whole no RAM point. Turned it off, put the RAM back in, cleared CMOS, and tried starting with just the GPU and SSD still out. At that point it came on and I was able to get into BIOS. I was in the BIOS for maybe 3 or 4 minutes when it just shut off. Since then, I can't get so much as a single LED to blink. Any tricks or suggestions would be welcome at this point.
Just finished a new build yesterday around 4pm. Installed Windows 8.1, all drivers and updates and such. Got an hour of gaming in and shut it down before bed around Midnight. I got home from work today and, on suggestion of a friend, ran Prime95 to make sure everything was stable in case I needed to RMA anything with Newegg. I ran it for just over an hour and decided that was good enough for the moment. CPU temp lows around 15C. Peaked at a high of 85C. No errors. Checked Facebook and GAF and then I switched over to my couch to watch a movie on my PS4. I got twenty minutes into the movie and hear the optical drive spinning in the computer (it's an older drive I threw in for OS installation purposes). I turn around to see it rebooting. I watched it for a moment thinking "Golly, I wonder why it's rebooting." Suddenly everything went dark and it restarted again. I jumped up and flipped off the power supply as soon as I could. I opened it up, took a look around, felt various components to see if anything was alarmingly hot. Everything seemed ok, so I tried to start it up again. A few flashes of light and then nothing. I took the RAM and GPU out, disconnected all cables from the motherboard and started one piece at a time. I even checked the seating of the CPU and then cleaned it and reapplied TIM. Plugged fans and case connections back in. Tried to POST with no RAM and got the three long beeps and debug message on motherboard came on indicating everything was working up to the whole no RAM point. Turned it off, put the RAM back in, cleared CMOS, and tried starting with just the GPU and SSD still out. At that point it came on and I was able to get into BIOS. I was in the BIOS for maybe 3 or 4 minutes when it just shut off. Since then, I can't get so much as a single LED to blink. Any tricks or suggestions would be welcome at this point.
JetForceGemini
Banned
Can anyone help me? It's like my computer is infected with spyware or malware, because every time I click on something another page pops up, and certain words are blue and highlighted which if you bring the mouse over to it, a ad pops up, what's up with that
I know nothing, but I am going to assume PSU or CPU is bust. Best option would be to see if you can find a friend with a computer and swap parts from theirs until you find the culprit.
Tertullian
Member
Okey dokey, I am finally planning to pull the trigger on the above. I've never built a PC before, so I will probably be coming back to this thread for help or to troubleshoot. I should mention that I'm trying to keep the budget a little more reined in than I said above: keeping it around the $1,700 range would be nice. Here's my PC Parts Picker link:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/WFdtNG
Does everything look alright? any incompatibilities? Suggestions? Thanks again!
Other than maybe getting a slightly beefier PSU if you have any plans to go multi monitor/SLI in the future. Other than that looks like a great setup. I do not know anything about computer monitors though.
I have the R4 and it is an all around great case.
adamantypants
Member
I posted in the 120hz thread about this too but I'll just cross post here.
I just set up my VG248QE and overall I'm incredibly disappointed in the colors and actual display itself. I'm coming from an IPS display. I've set it up reasonably enough that I could live with it but I have a real issue.
This panel that I got has really inconsistent coloring/brightness. The center is definitely brighter than the rest of the panel and the upper left is so bad that colors appear different in that corner. I know I'd probably have to RMA to get one that isn't so shit but I just want to know how common this is with these panels. I've seen some stories of people going through 3-4 to get one that works. But honestly if I have to go through all that trouble I'm just going to return this display. Finally taking advantage of all those frames my rig puts out is great but not at this cost.
I just set up my VG248QE and overall I'm incredibly disappointed in the colors and actual display itself. I'm coming from an IPS display. I've set it up reasonably enough that I could live with it but I have a real issue.
This panel that I got has really inconsistent coloring/brightness. The center is definitely brighter than the rest of the panel and the upper left is so bad that colors appear different in that corner. I know I'd probably have to RMA to get one that isn't so shit but I just want to know how common this is with these panels. I've seen some stories of people going through 3-4 to get one that works. But honestly if I have to go through all that trouble I'm just going to return this display. Finally taking advantage of all those frames my rig puts out is great but not at this cost.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
It is not just you, people have been playing the waiting game for a few weeks now.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked