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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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The Llama

Member
60Hz still looks great.

If you want the color you've grown accustomed to without the ghosting, then the Eizo Foris FG2421 would be what you want, as it is also a VA panel. However, it has a firmware level strobing and a 120Hz refresh rate, so it has virtually zero motion blur. It'll look better than your Plasma even.

tbf I don't even care TOO much about the color. Actually, my biggest problem with the monitor (besides the ghosting) is text is annoying to read (its almost like the screen door effect, but not exactly), and I think thats also a thing with the VA panel (either that or I'm just perma-fucked from using a retina MBP and a retina iPad haha), so I think it might be better if I just avoid a TN anyway.
 

aTTckr

Member
Is there any wire that may have gotten into the PSU fan area?

Also, are you 100% certain without a doubt it is your PSU?

I just checked and there is nothing in the way, plus the fan is downward facing so there is nothing that could come in the way.

Yeah I am sure it is the PSU, every other fan acts the same and the graphics card is the only thing in proximity and it's fan speed stays pretty constant in the asus monitoring program during the super loud noise.
 

jett

D-Member
Any more recommendations for a quiet PSU under load? Got a 4670k+280X, nothing fancy, no overclocking atm. Preferably I don't want to break the bank getting something beyond 600W. I have a XFX Core PRO650W and it's just a screamer while playing the likes of Crysis 3, Witcher 2 and AC4. By far the loudest component in my case. Honestly it gets so loud I'm not entirely sure it's meant to be. Reviews say its 40db under load but that's total bullshit.
 

industrian

will gently cradle you as time slowly ticks away.
Any more recommendations for a quiet PSU under load? Got a 4670k+280X, nothing fancy, no overclocking atm. Preferably I don't want to break the bank getting something beyond 600W. I have a XFX Core PRO650W and it's just a screamer while playing the likes of Crysis 3, Witcher 2 and AC4. By far the loudest component in my case. Honestly it gets so loud I'm not entirely sure it's meant to be. Reviews say its 40db under load but that's total bullshit.

Ever considered a fanless PSU?

I had my eyes on one of these Seasonics (they're expensive though) - http://www.seasonicusa.com/Platinum_Series_FL2.htm
 

Tanolen

Member
I'm looking to upgrade and ive been looking to try used on ebay to save some money. Has anyone had alot of problems going this route? Also for some reason r9 290x cards on ebay used are more than half off verus nvidia only being about 30 percent off. Does scrypt mining devalue a card by that much?
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm looking to upgrade and ive been looking to try used on ebay to save some money. Has anyone had alot of problems going this route? Also for some reason r9 290x cards on ebay used are more than half off verus nvidia only being about 30 percent off. Does scrypt mining devalue a card by that much?

Excluding the wear and tear of running the card 24/7, there is a greater 2nd hand supply since it became no longer profitable to mine with AMD GPUs. So it's a twofold impact. Id rather not buy a card that's been mined on, but wouldn't advise against buying 2nd hand GPUs if used normally, so id say get a 2nd hand nVidia GPU or new AMD GPU.

There is also the warranty problem with 2nd hand hardware, you need to check the manufacturer for this info.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I'm looking to upgrade and ive been looking to try used on ebay to save some money. Has anyone had alot of problems going this route? Also for some reason r9 290x cards on ebay used are more than half off verus nvidia only being about 30 percent off. Does scrypt mining devalue a card by that much?
LilJoka covers just about everything.
There is also the warranty problem with 2nd hand hardware, you need to check the manufacturer for this info.
This is true, but the ones that have a warranty based on serial number are ASUS, Gigabyte, MSI, and EVGA (N/A here, but just for your info).
I just checked and there is nothing in the way, plus the fan is downward facing so there is nothing that could come in the way.

Yeah I am sure it is the PSU, every other fan acts the same and the graphics card is the only thing in proximity and it's fan speed stays pretty constant in the asus monitoring program during the super loud noise.
Sounds like an RMA might be in order.
Any more recommendations for a quiet PSU under load? Got a 4670k+280X, nothing fancy, no overclocking atm. Preferably I don't want to break the bank getting something beyond 600W. I have a XFX Core PRO650W and it's just a screamer while playing the likes of Crysis 3, Witcher 2 and AC4. By far the loudest component in my case. Honestly it gets so loud I'm not entirely sure it's meant to be. Reviews say its 40db under load but that's total bullshit.
RM650, but yeah, that PRO650W shouldn't be that loud. Is it perhaps dirty?
 
Not that I can see at a glance. It's likely the vp450p is a territorial variation.

Yeah, I think it's a just the european version.

Anyway I tried updating the motherboard bios, removing the other PCI card and using an adapter for the 6 pin power cable. Nothing, when the R9 270 is in the PC is completely dead, I just can't turn it on.

Any other suggestion or I should just consider it dead and ask for a refund?
 

riflen

Member
Yeah, I think it's a just the european version.

Anyway I tried updating the motherboard bios, removing the other PCI card and using an adapter for the 6 pin power cable. Nothing, when the R9 270 is in the PC is completely dead, I just can't turn it on.

Any other suggestion or I should just consider it dead and ask for a refund?

Sounds like a pretty definitive RMA.
 
Sounds like a pretty definitive RMA.

Actually other people are telling me it's the PSU. The R9 270 needs a maximum combined +12 Volt continuous current rating of 28 Amps or greater, and my PSU has only 18.
Is that right? It's my PSU then? But I swear I've read of people that run this card with this PSU...
 

Doc Holliday

SPOILER: Columbus finds America
Back to team Green. After 2+ years of dealing with the loudest card I've ever own, 7970, i picked up a 780. Doing a lot more 3d/gaming and I couldn't handle how loud the card would get. Not mention it ran hot as fuck.

Ivy Bridge i7 3770k
16 gig ram
Msi 780 oc ed
 

tarheel91

Member
Back to team Green. After 2+ years of dealing with the loudest card I've ever own, 7970, i picked up a 780. Doing a lot more 3d/gaming and I couldn't handle how loud the card would get. Not mention it ran hot as fuck.

Ivy Bridge i7 3770k
16 gig ram
Msi 780 oc ed

Were you using a stock card or third party? I can't even hear my 7950 over the fans.
 

Ashhong

Member
I doubt you'll notice with the vast majority of workloads. However I would not trust WD greens to last long. They are designed for set top boxes, so their focus is power saving. Do not put anything on there that you care about without having backups on a separate disk.

Naw 1080p video is fine. Just games would be slower. Friend on battlefield has a 5400rpm drive and he loads like 2 minutes after a round as started.

Cool thanks for the help. I do have another backup drive to save all of my porn, but hopefully it won't break. 60$ is too good of a price
 

riflen

Member
Actually other people are telling me it's the PSU. The R9 270 needs a maximum combined +12 Volt continuous current rating of 28 Amps or greater, and my PSU has only 18.
Is that right? It's my PSU then? But I swear I've read of people that run this card with this PSU...

R9 270 requires 28 amps? Nope. More like 13 amps at full tilt.
 
Alright need some help guys. Picked up one of the 290X's off Amazon and trying to get things going. I'm seeing a lot of tearing and stretching randomally. Happens at any time. Other strange thing is that games get forced to Windowed Mode after a short period of time. If I go back to full screen, it'll jump back to Windowed shortly after.

i'm using the latest AMD drivers and uninstalled all Nvidia drivers. I've ran in Safe Mode and havn't seen issues there. I ran Furmark and actually saw no issues during that. I've seen tearing/stretching on the desktop, browsing the web, Just Cause2, Goat Simulator, etc.

My system :

i5-2500k
Seasonic 550W
ASUS P8Z68-V LX
Gigabyte R9 290X

I've re installed the drivers as well. Any thoughts guys? Really appreciate it.
 
I'm not really sure what else to suggest. You're certain the 6-pin PCI-E power connector is properly seated? Is there another PCI-E slot you can try?

Yes, I've even tried the adapter that comes with the card. And no, I have only one PCI-E slot in the motherboard.
 

megateto

Member
Quick question:

My brother is currently spending a couple of days in Orlando, Florida. I was wondering if there is any nice computer parts store which may have in stock 780ti cards with good prices. As an euro gaffer, I could really take advantage of the currency difference. Maybe I could even get myself a nice 4770k too.
 
Getting closer
10376991_10152531131051967_8128135840251342240_n.jpg
 
Quick question:

My brother is currently spending a couple of days in Orlando, Florida. I was wondering if there is any nice computer parts store which may have in stock 780ti cards with good prices. As an euro gaffer, I could really take advantage of the currency difference. Maybe I could even get myself a nice 4770k too.
Possibly Best Buy, but the safer bet is one of the TigerDirect stores in the Orlando area.
 
I'm not really sure what else to suggest. You're certain the 6-pin PCI-E power connector is properly seated? Is there another PCI-E slot you can try?

Actually I've read somewhere that someone had similar problems with a graphic card, but then he solved them by adjusting some settings in the motherboard bios. Do you think that could be the issue?

Since I'm not sure what I should do I just took a picture. Do you think there's something wrong here?

gZB29AL.jpg
 

teiresias

Member
Actually I've read somewhere that someone had similar problems with a graphic card, but then he solved them by adjusting some settings in the motherboard bios. Do you think that could be the issue?

Since I'm not sure what I should do I just took a picture. Do you think there's something wrong here?

gZB29AL.jpg

Are you sure there isn't an extra per connector on the motherboard to provide extra power to the PCI-E slots? It would be unusual that that would be necessary, but worth checking I guess. I'm at a loss otherwise.
 

frye

Member
Hey dudes, this is gonna be my first build, etc etc.

Budget: 700-800 bux + Canada
Main Use: Gaming + general use
Will you be overclocking?: No

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.88 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: MSI H97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Memory Express)
Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.99 @ NCIX)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 270X 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($189.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $747.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

How's it look? Anything that needs some serious change?
 

Lime

Member
Hmmm...I'm on a very stringent budget and I saw that the Pentium G3220 is doing pretty well when it comes to gaming. It seems incredibly inexpensive compared to going with a i5 or a i7 and it almost yields competitive results. I was originally planning on a i5 4690k, but the price difference and the future CPUs make me hesitate. I'm using it with a R9 290.

Should I get a G3220 and a Z97 board instead of a i5-4690K and save the money for the next CPU refresh?

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: I'm upgrading from an unlocked X3 720 BE, so it seems weird going from a 4 core CPU to a dual core one.
 

Stat!

Member
So unfortunately, I couldn't build my PC in time for the steam sale over a month ago but maybe you guys can help me again just to see if anything has changed?

First time PC builder. Currently using laptop.

Budget: 1000-1200 (Canadian)
Main Use: Games + General Usage
Overclocking? Probably not.

I have to be honest. Im not really sure where to start again on pc partspicker since I don't really know much of anything when it comes to building PCs.

Kinda want something quiet but won't need to be majorly upgraded for a few years. The closer I am to 1000 the more I can spend on other things like a keyboard, but I might also need things like a bluetooth. I'm really very much a beginner.
 
Building a computer for a family member...

Main uses in their words:


  • No games
  • General Web Browsing
  • Paint Shop Pro (not photoshop much) (just doing website graphics etc)
  • Sony Vegas Movie Studio (cutting up bigger videos and making smaller clips etc)
  • converting VHS to digital files and then cutting them into smaller clips
  • MS Office
They will not be overclocking. And since they aren't gaming I can just use CPU graphics and save money by not buying a video card.

Would the following parts perform acceptably?

And most importantly, would they be ok getting a lesser CPU to save some $$$?

CPU: i7 4790
Motherboard: ASUS H97-PLUS
RAM: 16gb
PSU: Seasonic 520W
 

LilJoka

Member
Building a computer for a family member...

Main uses in their words:


  • No games
  • General Web Browsing
  • Paint Shop Pro (not photoshop much) (just doing website graphics etc)
  • Sony Vegas Movie Studio (cutting up bigger videos and making smaller clips etc)
  • converting VHS to digital files and then cutting them into smaller clips
  • MS Office
They will not be overclocking. And since they aren't gaming I can just use CPU graphics and save money by not buying a video card.

Would the following parts perform acceptably?

And most importantly, would they be ok getting a lesser CPU to save some $$$?

CPU: i7 4790
Motherboard: ASUS H97-PLUS
RAM: 16gb
PSU: Seasonic 520W

550W PSU for a i7 4790 & GTX 780.
Seasonic 350W more than enough for a CPU only rig.
Depends on how much video editing they are doing, if its really intensive stuff then i7 can be justified, generally more CPU power the faster itll be.
 

Ashhong

Member
Ok so I need to initialize my new 2TB internal harddrives. Does it matter if I choose MBR or GPT? Its not my OS drive but I do plan to play games and such off of it
 

appaws

Banned
So unfortunately, I couldn't build my PC in time for the steam sale over a month ago but maybe you guys can help me again just to see if anything has changed?

First time PC builder. Currently using laptop.

Budget: 1000-1200 (Canadian)
Main Use: Games + General Usage
Overclocking? Probably not.

I have to be honest. Im not really sure where to start again on pc partspicker since I don't really know much of anything when it comes to building PCs.

Kinda want something quiet but won't need to be majorly upgraded for a few years. The closer I am to 1000 the more I can spend on other things like a keyboard, but I might also need things like a bluetooth. I'm really very much a beginner.

Start with the OP of this thread. Study everything, find the build that matches your budget. The system guide at Techreport.com is also a good place for a noob to read and learn about parts.
 
Anyone that lives near Aliso Viejo, CA interested in an Antec P280 case for $50? I opened it to make sure it wasn't damaged, but I've never used it. I tried Craigslist, but people always seem to be too far away. They don't read the listing that clearly states Aliso Viejo.



01313_gWiS7OcAJpM_600x450.jpg
 
Alright need some help guys. Picked up one of the 290X's off Amazon and trying to get things going. I'm seeing a lot of tearing and stretching randomally. Happens at any time. Other strange thing is that games get forced to Windowed Mode after a short period of time. If I go back to full screen, it'll jump back to Windowed shortly after.

i'm using the latest AMD drivers and uninstalled all Nvidia drivers. I've ran in Safe Mode and havn't seen issues there. I ran Furmark and actually saw no issues during that. I've seen tearing/stretching on the desktop, browsing the web, Just Cause2, Goat Simulator, etc.

My system :

i5-2500k
Seasonic 550W
ASUS P8Z68-V LX
Gigabyte R9 290X

I've re installed the drivers as well. Any thoughts guys? Really appreciate it.

So, I've tried about 4-5 different versions with DDU and all shows the same results. The card runs great when I can get through a benchmark, but I can't get rid of the tearing/artifacts.

Any other things to try? Thinking I might have to return this one. Hopefully Amazon can get me another one....
 
Are you sure there isn't an extra per connector on the motherboard to provide extra power to the PCI-E slots? It would be unusual that that would be necessary, but worth checking I guess. I'm at a loss otherwise.

I don't think so, but I will check.

Ok, there's nothing. I've also disabled integrated GPU and uninstalled the driver. Nope, the PC is totally dead when the R9 is inside. Damn.
 
550W PSU for a i7 4790 & GTX 780.
Seasonic 350W more than enough for a CPU only rig.
Depends on how much video editing they are doing, if its really intensive stuff then i7 can be justified, generally more CPU power the faster itll be.

Ok cool. I'll check the specifics of their video work and go from there. Only picked the 520W because it's modular, but just checked the 350W and it's way cheaper, so will go ahead and save them some $$s there.

Thanks!
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Reposting since I got no answer. Is it a matter of people not knowing what I am talking about in regards to how relliable r9 290 or?
It seemed to be a first batch problem.
I would go MSI or GB for their transferable warranties although the Tri-X is a very nice card.
So I'm considering switching to mATX for my first build. My questions are:

Do we know when the Air 240 will be available/how much it will be?

And what's a good Z97 mATX board that is dual GPU compatible? Is the ASUS Gryphon Z97 board a good choice?

Edit: Also! Is the 4790k really worth getting over the 4690k?
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/landing/air240 July TMK
4790K is 500MHz faster for free... so yeah?
Gryphon is alright, onboard audio is cheap though.
I have been thinking about putting together my first gaming PC to hook up to my TV (I know, TVs as monitors suck, but it's a space thing). I have no experience whatsoever, but carried out some research in this thread, the internet and got some opinions from a friend and the local electronics store.

Checking through Haz's PC builds in the OP, I would want to go somewhere between the Best Value and Best Overall configuration.

Like I said, I would want to go for the Best Value/Best Overall range. Been looking up parts and trying to compare, but it's a bit much... which is why I am seeking build-your-own-PC-GAF for their counsel.
Look at the Great build, get a better PSU, and see what parts you can or can't find where you are.
 

frontovik

Banned
Hi GAF .. I have a noob question:

I bought a new custom PC and am trying to figure out the SSD and HDD.

The OS is on the SSD (C Disk), but I'd like to install my STEAM library on the HDD (D Disk) which has more space.

I've googled for solutions, and have received answers such as: installing the OS on the HDD to copy'ing and past'ing the contents of the C Disk into D Disk.

How do I approach this exactly? Thank you.
 
Hi GAF .. I have a noob question:

I bought a new custom PC and am trying to figure out the SSD and HDD.

The OS is on the SSD (C Disk), but I'd like to install my STEAM library on the HDD (D Disk) which has more space.

I've googled for solutions, and have received answers such as: installing the OS on the HDD to copy'ing and past'ing the contents of the C Disk into D Disk.

How do I approach this exactly? Thank you.

Basically, for games I'm playing at the moment, I keep on my SSD for the faster loading times. When I'm done, I move it to my HDD. You can do this manually, and I do it for Origins games and Blizzard games, but I use a free program called Steamover for Steam library games. Works perfecty. http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover
 

frontovik

Banned
Thank you CreepingFear, I'll give that program a try :)

Just for clarification, my D Disk is completely empty. Do I have to install any OS or create a Program Files folder?
 

Kalm

Member
I have a possibly stupid question for you guys:

What's the generally accepted "best" method of capping framerate in conjunction with vsync these days? My new cards will be here on Monday and it'll be the first time (in a long time) that I'll have to worry about going above and beyond the 60fps my plasma can handle. I'd like to be able to set everything globally, if possible. I've gathered as much information as I could but it's mostly just forum opinions with no hard science behind them -- lots of "I don't know why, but it works" posts and vague, outdated articles.

The one I see most often is some variation of a global 59.xx fps cap + vsync set in Afterburner/Precision/etc. Wouldn't this cause the engine to constantly miss the 16ms refresh and default down to 30fps?

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Hi GAF .. I have a noob question:

I bought a new custom PC and am trying to figure out the SSD and HDD.

The OS is on the SSD (C Disk), but I'd like to install my STEAM library on the HDD (D Disk) which has more space.

I've googled for solutions, and have received answers such as: installing the OS on the HDD to copy'ing and past'ing the contents of the C Disk into D Disk.

How do I approach this exactly? Thank you.

So you want to install Steam on C too? As you only talk about the OS.

In Steam you can go to Settings->Downloads and then click Steam library folders that allows you to create multiple folders to download your Steam games to. Add one on your D drive and every time you download a game you get the option to pick where you want to install it.

Steam Mover works, but isn't what you asked for. You don't need to install games on your C drive first, unless you want to.
 
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