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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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Wray

Member
So whats the best Bang for your Buck Nvidia card right now? I'm trying to help my friend build a gaming PC on a 6-800 dollar budget right now.
 

Addnan

Member
So whats the best Bang for your Buck Nvidia card right now? I'm trying to help my friend build a gaming PC on a 6-800 dollar budget right now.

760 I suppose, but depends how it works around the budget of the rest of the system. 750Ti would be a good fit for the lower end of the budget.
 

riflen

Member
I'm trying to play crisis on my gtx770, however without vysnc it's terrible input lag and with vysnc it snaps to 24hz. It's got plenty of fps without the vysnc, just can't get decent experience. Ideally I'd like it to vysnc at 50hz, not sure why it goes with 24. Tried in game and nvidia control panel. Any ideas?


Sorry if. This not the place.

Ah this looks like the old Crysis switching your display to 50Hz refresh rate problem. Can you check the refresh rate of the display when you're playing?
I believe there are solutions to fix this if you want 60Hz. Sometimes it's enough to alt-enter a few times. Other people solved it by creating a custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel for something like 1920x1079 @ 60 Hz and selecting it in game.

If I'm right, vysnc is dropping the game to 25fps because you're not maintaining 50fps (for 50Hz vsync). It'll do this even if your frame rate only dips to 49fps. You may have to turn some settings down to maintain vsync at 50Hz.
 

Tanwo

Member
I've looked for some builds and I have found something that might be what I need. As I said in previous post, I don't have much knowledge about PC building, so I appreciate all suggestions.
Budget: 700-750€ / Spain
Main Use: Gaming: 5, General Usage: 5, Video Editing: 2.
When will you build?: As soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: No.

Anyway, here's what I found:

CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2Ghz Box
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 OC 2GB GDDR5
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87-HD3
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3 1600 PC3-12800 8GB 2x4GB CL9
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB SATA3
Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 412S CPU Cooler
PSU: Nox Urano VX 750W PFC

I have not included a case as I don't know which one to get. I would prefer one with good ventilation and not many LEDs. I'm also not sure about the PSU.
What do you think? What changes would you make?

Thanks again!
 

appaws

Banned
So whats the best Bang for your Buck Nvidia card right now? I'm trying to help my friend build a gaming PC on a 6-800 dollar budget right now.

760 I suppose, but depends how it works around the budget of the rest of the system. 750Ti would be a good fit for the lower end of the budget.

Building a PC on a 6-800 budget and limiting yourself to Nvidia is crazy right now, IMO. They are the lesser choice in price/performance at the moment, so if budget is a primary concern then the undying devotion to a particular set of our corporate overlords should be swept away.

The 750ti is not a good choice unless you are power constrained for some reason, it is solidly outperformed by AMDs choices in that price range. It seems to me that the 750ti has become the most over-recommended card. It should only be used in certain specific circumstances.

I have been observing that the "green at all costs" mantra has been on the upswing around the internets lately. Not sure why...? Maybe now that red are ahead in price/performance and easily available....the defense force feels the need to come out swinging.
 

BigFwoosh

Member
I just hope we're not waiting until the middle of July. Goodness knows how long I've waited.

I haven't been following the release dates for this really (just had to order a new PC a week or so ago and have been out of the loop). I guess it's been delayed a couple times? Newegg and Amazon both say June 25th now so here's hoping.
 

Wray

Member
Building a PC on a 6-800 budget and limiting yourself to Nvidia is crazy right now, IMO. They are the lesser choice in price/performance at the moment, so if budget is a primary concern then the undying devotion to a particular set of our corporate overlords should be swept away.

The 750ti is not a good choice unless you are power constrained for some reason, it is solidly outperformed by AMDs choices in that price range. It seems to me that the 750ti has become the most over-recommended card. It should only be used in certain specific circumstances.

I have been observing that the "green at all costs" mantra has been on the upswing around the internets lately. Not sure why...? Maybe now that red are ahead in price/performance and easily available....the defense force feels the need to come out swinging.

The driver and feature support of Nvidia cards are just too good to pass up right now. Shadowplay alone makes it worth it imo.
 
The driver and feature support of Nvidia cards are just too good to pass up right now. Shadowplay alone makes it worth it imo.

I was a firm believer and in this camp until my friend who is strangely and scarily only AMD for graphics showed me that in a lot of comparisons between the two the monetary gain of the driver performance was not as big of a gap as I thought.
 
More of my parts came today
10437553_10152530250356967_259152078023453578_n.jpg
 

riflen

Member
I've looked for some builds and I have found something that might be what I need. As I said in previous post, I don't have much knowledge about PC building, so I appreciate all suggestions.
Budget: 700-750€ / Spain
Main Use: Gaming: 5, General Usage: 5, Video Editing: 2.
When will you build?: As soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: No.

Anyway, here's what I found:

CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2Ghz Box
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 OC 2GB GDDR5
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87-HD3
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3 1600 PC3-12800 8GB 2x4GB CL9
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB SATA3
Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 412S CPU Cooler
PSU: Nox Urano VX 750W PFC

I have not included a case as I don't know which one to get. I would prefer one with good ventilation and not many LEDs. I'm also not sure about the PSU.
What do you think? What changes would you make?

Thanks again!

If you're not overclocking, then the main benefits of a Z-series motherboard are lost. You can save some money and select an H87 board.

I'd not heard of that PSU and there's absolutely no need for 750W output with this PC. I looked it up and it does not have an 80 Plus rating. In fact the manufacturer has deceptively put an "85 + Efficiency" logo on the product web page, which deliberately resembles a genuine 80 Plus logo. I would avoid this PSU.

I would put money saved on the motherboard towards a good quality, lower output PSU (~550W) unit. It's more important to get clean power delivery with good efficiency. That will keep the PSU cooler and quieter.
Try to get a semi-modular PSU. It will help with cable tidying and airflow as well as looking neater. I don't think your budget will allow fully modular. Ideally I prefer a single 12V rail, but that's not totally necessary. It should have at least 80 Plus Bronze rating.

I don't know what's available in Spain, but elsewhere in Europe I would look at XFX Pro 550, Antec 550 or EVGA if you can find them. Seasonic are always safe I think.

Case choice is often down to personal preference. I'm not too knowledgeable on cases, but there are plenty in the OP to start you off.
 

lyrick

Member
Need some quick EET thoughts regarding PSU and Upgrading

Currently I have

i5-2500K
Asus P8p67 Pro Mobo
2 x 4GB 1600 RAM
1.5TB HDD
90 GB SSD
Sapphire HD6870
1 200mm case fan
2 or 3 80mm case fans

all on a OCZ ModX 600W PSU
(http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/OCZ-ModXStream-Pro-600-W-Power-Supply-Review/936/6)

I currently have an Amazon Warehouse Gigabyte R9 290X in transit

I know the overall load will be adequate, but will there be enough current with the rail division to feed the 290x with the current PSU?
 
What's the ETA on the new Intel CPU's that are better than hanswell? What is their roadmap looking like in general? I am going to build a PC with those new maxwell nvidia GPUS and that new Intel CPU.
 

mkenyon

Banned
If it helps, the PC itself is only a year old and I did not notice these problems until we moved.

I would like to know how this would effect my PC, and how much, I would also would like to know how to handle this.

Thank you, your help is appreciated.
Is that a HAF 932 or HAF X?

http://www.demcifilter.com/c21/HAF-932.aspx

http://www.demcifilter.com/c22/HAF-X.aspx
Silverstone RV05 is finally official. Maybe Fortress FT05 won't be too far behind.
Here's hoping.
What's the ETA on the new Intel CPU's that are better than hanswell? What is their roadmap looking like in general? I am going to build a PC with those new maxwell nvidia GPUS and that new Intel CPU.
For consumer socket, there is a new release late Q4/Q1 once a year. Broadwell is the next chip. Probably a 5-10% IPC increase as it has been for the last 4 years.

The enthusiast socket is a bit of a wildcard in terms of release date, but Haswell-E should be coming within 3-5ish months. It will have DDR4. There should be a six core part around $330ish (the entry level 5820K), but other than that everything else is unknown.
Are there typically any compromises with ITX these days (other than the lack of PCI-E slots)?
You lose the ability to have a dedicated sound card because of the single slot issue. You also only get 2 memory slots instead of 4. Connectivity in general is reduced, like fewer SATA/USB ports. None of that is really of any concern for a gaming/general use machine though. The sound card issue can be overcome with an external DAC/Amp combo.
So I'm considering switching to mATX for my first build. My questions are:

Do we know when the Air 240 will be available/how much it will be?

And what's a good Z97 mATX board that is dual GPU compatible? Is the ASUS Gryphon Z97 board a good choice?

Edit: Also! Is the 4790k really worth getting over the 4690k?
Gigabyte Z97MX-Gaming 5 is a great value. The Gryphon is solid too.

The Air 240 should be out within a few months. My favorite mATX case on the horizon is the Phanteks Evolv.


The Node 804 is out now and would be my personal mATX case of choice at this moment.

 

riflen

Member
Need some quick EET thoughts regarding PSU and Upgrading

Currently I have

i5-2500K
Asus P8p67 Pro Mobo
2 x 4GB 1600 RAM
1.5TB HDD
90 GB SSD
Sapphire HD6870
1 200mm case fan
2 or 3 80mm case fans

all on a OCZ ModX 600W PSU
(http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/OCZ-ModXStream-Pro-600-W-Power-Supply-Review/936/6)

I currently have an Amazon Warehouse Gigabyte R9 290X in transit

I know the overall load will be adequate, but will there be enough current with the rail division to feed the 290x with the current PSU?

I don't think it's possible to know for certain. That PSU seems to have two 12v rails that each max out at 25Amps. It's common that the PCI-E power connectors for the GPU are fed from one 12v rail (your link confirms this). If that's the case then one rail can only support 300 Watts and that GPU can draw 300 Watts at max.
You could adapt a molex to PCI-E and try to feed the GPU from both rails. It depends how the PSU is wired. Most people just avoid the issue by using a PSU with a single 12v rail that can manage the load.

EDIT: Corrected 290x power draw.
 
So I bought a R9 270 and today I replaced my old Radeon HD 6570 with it. When I tried to turn on the PC I couldn't. It was dead. I thought it was the PSU, but I removed the R9 and just used the intregrated and it boots now. So what's the problem?

This is my configuration:

ASRock 960GM-GS3 FX (socket AM3+)
AMD Athlon II X4 640
Corsair XMS3 4GB
WD Caviar Blue 500GB
Antec VP450
 

riflen

Member
So I bought a R9 270 and today I replaced my old Radeon HD 6570 with it. When I tried to turn on the PC I couldn't. It was dead. I thought it was the PSU, but I removed the R9 and just used the intregrated and it boots now. So what's the problem?

This is my configuration:

ASRock 960GM-GS3 FX (socket AM3+)
AMD Athlon II X4 640
Corsair XMS3 4GB
WD Caviar Blue 500GB
Antec VP450

Is there a BIOS update available for your motherboard?
 

Khrno

Member
Could someone recommend me a heavy gaming mouse please?

I've been looking on Amazon and other UK sites and all the mice I see are around 150 grams including weight management. The problem is that I'm used to my old Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 5000 which weights about 4.86 ounces (384 grams) including 2 AA batteries going by the technical data sheet. So after 5 years with this mouse, I cannot use comfortably a lighter mouse anymore.

862848-laser.jpg
[/
 

Chozolore

Member
Ah this looks like the old Crysis switching your display to 50Hz refresh rate problem. Can you check the refresh rate of the display when you're playing?
I believe there are solutions to fix this if you want 60Hz. Sometimes it's enough to alt-enter a few times. Other people solved it by creating a custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel for something like 1920x1079 @ 60 Hz and selecting it in game.

If I'm right, vysnc is dropping the game to 25fps because you're not maintaining 50fps (for 50Hz vsync). It'll do this even if your frame rate only dips to 49fps. You may have to turn some settings down to maintain vsync at 50Hz.


Yeah thAnks for all the replies; to clarify, without vysnc I get high frame rate, but the responsiveness and look is bad, with vysnc I get 24 hz and the jankyness that comes with that.

In comparison cry sis 2, without vysnc is the same horribleness, but with vysnc is a butter smooth 50hz, which is what the tv is.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Could someone recommend me a heavy gaming mouse please?

I've been looking on Amazon and other UK sites and all the mice I see are around 150 grams including weight management. The problem is that I'm used to my old Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 5000 which weights about 4.86 ounces (384 grams) including 2 AA batteries going by the technical data sheet. So after 5 years with this mouse, I cannot use comfortably a lighter mouse anymore.
I'd really suggest learning to play with a lighter mouse.

But, the Logitech Proteus Core has adjustable weight. So does the Corsair M65, but the Proteus has a better sensor.
 

riflen

Member
Yeah thAnks for all the replies; to clarify, without vysnc I get high frame rate, but the responsiveness and look is bad, with vysnc I get 24 hz and the jankyness that comes with that.

In comparison cry sis 2, without vysnc is the same horribleness, but with vysnc is a butter smooth 50hz, which is what the tv is.

Are you sure you've not set vsync to half refresh in the nvidia control panel settings or nvidia inspector for this game? Might be worth just resetting the 3d profile for Crysis.
 

The Llama

Member
I have a 24" 1080p monitor right now but its a PVA (or MVA, or... whatever the one thats not IPS or TN is, anyway) panel, and it has some noticeable ghosting (good color reproduction, at least). I'm thinking about upgrading to a newer 120/144hz monitor in the next 2-3 months, after I build a new desktop. I'd be perfectly happy running most games (anything not made in the last year or 2, plus anything coming out in the future) at 60hz. If I'm not targeting 120hz for most stuff, is the stuff I target 60hz for going to look crappy? I really just have no idea how this is gonna work out. I have a 600hz plasma HDTV and console stuff looks great on that, so I guess I'm worrying about nothing, but figured I'd ask.
 

TMONSTER

Member
Ok Guys! Someone at the AVS Forums PM'd me about something hidden in the new Nvidia Drivers. He claimed that it allowed him to run 4k resolution, obviously on a 4k set at 60fps via HDMI. However, as we all know HDMI on our GPU's are only 1.4 which are limited to 4k at 30fps. So, I happen to check into this and I seriously need someone to check my sanity because it is working!!!!

I don't know how or what, but when you go to the Screen Resolution under the Nvidia Control panel, it shows Ultra HD and the 4k resolution, but when I hit this it showed the refresh rate at only 30, but I scrolled down and there was a separate listing of resolution for PC and one of them was 3840x2160 at 60. So I selected this and sure enough the resolution changed to 4k. But figured no way a game would play at 60fps. So I booted up fraps and since it is my wifes system and she only had Elder Scrolls, I booted that up and sure as fuck it played at 4k at 60fps. I had to turn some stuff down as she only has a 770, but I am able to get 60fps at 4k through the HDMI port on the GPU. My Sony 4k was updated a while ago to have the HDMI 4 port capable of running at HDMI 2.0 specs.

How is this working guys? It goes against what everyone was told that HDMI 1.4 was not capable of doing this, but yet I am playing a game at 4k at 60fps? Can anyone that has a 4k set and PC along with the Beta drives test this please? ensure you scroll down to the PC resolutions.

Just tested this out on my wt600 and it definitely works. Seems it is outputting 4k at 4:2:0 60hz which is indeed possible over hdmi 1.4. Text quality is hugely degraded though compared to DP which is 4:4:4.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I have a 24" 1080p monitor right now but its a PVA (or MVA, or... whatever the one thats not IPS or TN is, anyway) panel, and it has some noticeable ghosting (good color reproduction, at least). I'm thinking about upgrading to a newer 120/144hz monitor in the next 2-3 months, after I build a new desktop. I'd be perfectly happy running most games (anything not made in the last year or 2, plus anything coming out in the future) at 60hz. If I'm not targeting 120hz for most stuff, is the stuff I target 60hz for going to look crappy? I really just have no idea how this is gonna work out. I have a 600hz plasma HDTV and console stuff looks great on that, so I guess I'm worrying about nothing, but figured I'd ask.
60Hz still looks great.

If you want the color you've grown accustomed to without the ghosting, then the Eizo Foris FG2421 would be what you want, as it is also a VA panel. However, it has a firmware level strobing and a 120Hz refresh rate, so it has virtually zero motion blur. It'll look better than your Plasma even.
 

aTTckr

Member
So I buiit my new pc today and everything works well, but my power supply (cooler master v700) has twice become so loud that I had to turn pc off. By loud I mean far louder than any pc component I have ever heard, it sounds almost like there is a small engine in my pc. It happened once in game and once just idling in Windows. Before it gets so loud it is absolutely quiet. What could cause this?

By the way after the first time my (quite old) hdd stopped working, but it sound more like a mechanical problem (clicking sound), so there is probably no connection between that and the psu problem?
 
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