I sold my 5850 on gaf.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I sold my 5850 on gaf.
^What the other member said.
Do you have an account on tech forums like HARD or OC? They have active for sale/trade sub forums, the more forums you sell on, the better the odds. Just using common sense helps you avoid trouble, looking at forum membership details and heat evaluations helps find trustworthy buyers/sellers. I never had any issues and I've been trading on forums over 10 years.
Here are some I've traded frequently on without issues:
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/
http://forums.anandtech.com/
http://hardforum.com/index.php
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
I did a bunch of assembly today, but I'm taking my time since it's my first time and I want to make sure I get everything right. I got as far as connecting CPU/cooler, attaching RAM sticks, loading in the hard drive, and screwing the motherboard into the case. Decided to call it a night since I'm exhausted and pick it up again tomorrow.
Quick question - I have an Asrock Z97 Pro3 and I can't seem to find the "header" that is used to connect the power/reset strips to. I've looked in all the boxes I have and I can't find it. Any idea where I might find this? I don't think I lost any piece so I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do.
Quick question - I have an Asrock Z97 Pro3 and I can't seem to find the "header" that is used to connect the power/reset strips to. I've looked in all the boxes I have and I can't find it. Any idea where I might find this? I don't think I lost any piece so I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do.
bottom right like 99% of the other mobos I imagine.
I checked the manual for your mobo, and yup, it's the bottom right. That's pretty much standard.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
To clarify I'm talking about this white thing:
I looked in all the boxes and I can't find it. The manual seems to imply that I should use this thing to connect the power strips to the mobo but I can't seem to find it.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
Oh OK thanks. I was worried that I might not be able to connect these strips without that piece.
I have a question pcgaf...
I'm working on my wife's manager's computers and one of them is giving me a hard time. I cut the power on and the monitor won't come on, but the lights are up. I don't even hear a beep notification at all. I tried taking the cmos out to reset the bios but no help. I even tried taking out the graphics card but still nothing.
I don't know what else to do.
I'm working on my wife's manager's computers and one of them is giving me a hard time. I cut the power on and the monitor won't come on, but the lights are up. I don't even hear a beep notification at all. I tried taking the cmos out to reset the bios but no help. I even tried taking out the graphics card but still nothing.
I don't know what else to do.
opticalmace
Member
Try a different cable, monitor.
I did. I tried my old crt and a dell monitor from her job...still having issues with display.
opticalmace
Member
Tried a different cable and port? DVI, VGA, HDMI if it's new enough, etc.
It's a older pc lol...no hdmi but dvi though. I'll see if my wife can bring me another monitor from her job.
In a years time there will be better cards out, you won't want to SLI.
Same. I run 4K so don't really need DSR.
Naked Snake
Member
When I moved my motherboard to another case last night I couldn't remove the backplate from the old case (seemed like I would need to bend all the thin edges and it would be destroyed)... so now I have it in case with no backplate... that can't be very good regarding dust and air flow, right? I tried to search online to see if replacement backplates for it are sold but that doesn't seem to be the case. It's the Intel DH67BL for what its worth.
Should I be concerned about this or shall I just leave it without a backplate?
Should I be concerned about this or shall I just leave it without a backplate?
Alright, I need some advice
Just how important is a motherboard overall? I'm upgrading my PC by buying a new CPU, GPU, RAM and MB
I can get an i7-4790k & GA-Z97X-Gaming G1 for $389, and I really wanted to take this deal, but the warranty will only hold in the US and I don't live there
I can get just the CPU and take the risk with the warranty, and then buy a cheaper MB locally
Should I do this or take the risk and get this deal? I'm just not sure how a MB affects the PC tbh..
I will buy the GTX 970 and will do no OC, if that has anything to do with decision
Just how important is a motherboard overall? I'm upgrading my PC by buying a new CPU, GPU, RAM and MB
I can get an i7-4790k & GA-Z97X-Gaming G1 for $389, and I really wanted to take this deal, but the warranty will only hold in the US and I don't live there
I can get just the CPU and take the risk with the warranty, and then buy a cheaper MB locally
Should I do this or take the risk and get this deal? I'm just not sure how a MB affects the PC tbh..
I will buy the GTX 970 and will do no OC, if that has anything to do with decision
hooijdonk17
Member
Could GAF advise me a couple good AM3+ motherboards for my shiny new AMD FX CPU (currently busy with overheating my current board's VRM and throttling itself..) that won't break the bank?
Bananajama
Banned
So got my gaming rig finally sorted. Will add pics later. Next up....
Wired or wireless keyboard and mouse when I'm sat 6foot away from the screen?
(Gaming)
Wired or wireless keyboard and mouse when I'm sat 6foot away from the screen?
(Gaming)
The backplate I/O shield isn't absolutely needed, but I don't really see any reason why it'd be stuck in there. The only thing holding it in is tension - tapping it with the end of a screwdriver on the edges and corners from the outside of the case should pop it out. All I/O shields are installed and removed one way. You're taking it out from the inside of the case, not the outside, right?
I don't know about getting the motherboard here or where you live, that depends on warranty coverage and how much of a discount you're getting (and if it's worth it). Concerning the motherboard..
"[Power (VRMs, Phases) are] usually the big difference between a cheap motherboard and a more expensive motherboard. More power phases, solid capacitors, ferrite chokes and MOSFET heatsinks are usually present in good-quality mobos. High-end mobos may have DrMos and tantalum capacitors."
"You can determine the number of phases by counting the number of chokes. Higher is usually better, but going overboard (32 phases) does not help much."
"Low quality VRMs are typically the first thing to fry, especially if overclocking. Getting something good will ensure lower temps, stable/clean power for your CPU, and a reliable, long-lasting mobo."
That GA-Z97X-Gaming G1 motherboard appears to be very high end, expensive ($290 by itself), and reviews say it is excellent. The bundle price for both seems like a great deal.
For about $100, there's the Asus M5A99FX PRO R2.0 and the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3. Going even cheaper to the $75 mark, there's the Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P, it has 8+2 phase design (I think the Asus offering at the same price only has 4+2 phase.)
There's a review roundup for the first two 990FX chipset motherboards located here. The Asus only has 6+2 phase compared to the Gigabyte's 8+2 phase design, but the Asus model comes out ahead in overclocking.
Naked Snake
Member
Hmm, I think I might have been trying to take it out the opposite way. I'm currently in the process of packing and move all my stuff to a new apartment, so the old case has been packed. I'll try it again some time probably in a few days. Thanks a bunch!
hooijdonk17
Member
Thanks, very helpful! The 990s seem to be kind of out of my price range but the 970A-UD3P looks like it will do good. Unfortunately I can quickly grab only the UD3 model, I'll have to order and wait for the UD3P - is there much of a difference? I've been comparing and aside from some LAN and audio chipsets they look the same?
EDIT: Actually UD3 looks like it has better audio and lan (Realtek vs VIA) as well as Firewire.. Downgrade revision or something?
Best way to take out an IO shield, knock the back of a screw driver into the IO shield and itll drop into the case.
Hello PC Gaf,
I just ordered some more RAM for my pc in order to keep me playing until I can actually get/build a new rig. It will be the very first time that I change something inside my PC by myself, so I am a little bit nervous about it. The RAM is a different brand, but the size, speed, timing and voltage are all the same as my current RAM. Is there anything I need to know before trying to install it?
I just ordered some more RAM for my pc in order to keep me playing until I can actually get/build a new rig. It will be the very first time that I change something inside my PC by myself, so I am a little bit nervous about it. The RAM is a different brand, but the size, speed, timing and voltage are all the same as my current RAM. Is there anything I need to know before trying to install it?
Thanks for the heads up! I actually didn't see this in time and bought it at the store. Fortunately, the new motherboard was shot so I had to try the GPU out in my old motherboard, was actually worse than my 6 year old card.
SO, took that back to the store and got a geforce 750 ti and a different motherboard, and everything's running great!
appaws
Banned
No real consensus on that....
Any of the first-tier brands are fine....Gigabyte, Asus, MSI, EVGA.
Depends on the hardware revision you're getting and that depends on where you buy the motherboard from. Gigabyte does this thing for better or worse where they will update a model and maybe change some parts.. Unfortunately, the latest revisions of the UD3 are VIA audio. Not a huge deal breaker, but they clearly seem to have gone for some cost-cutting measures.
Here's the product comparison from the Gigabyte website.
RAM installation is very straightforward. Power down, drop in the RAM, and turn it back on. There's obviously more safety steps involved, but it really is one of the easiest upgrades to do. There are tutorial videos on YouTube, take a look. I'd link one, but finding and linking a video on mobile is difficult for me right now.
Excellent to hear. The 750 Ti is highly recommended as a video card upgrade if your PSU is older and low power, the card has efficient power requirements and doesn't require any additional power cables like nearly all mid to high range video cards.
hooijdonk17
Member
Thanks again, enlightening. Changing components in product revisions isn't that uncommon for most hardware really, but I hadn't noticed anyone doing it for mainboards. I won't mind Firewire either, so it's basically a tossup between blue or black PCBs, and where I would like my SATA ports to be, I suppose. I'll just buy whichever is available for cheaper by Christmas
paolo11
Member
That's a heatsink meant for cramped spaces and low noise. It'll work, but is not intended for high performance. For better cooling in a small case, you might as well spring for a closed loop water cooler like the Corsair H105.
hiya.
trying to figure out if there is anything i can do with my current setup in terms of upgrades for meaningful amount of performance gain atm or its better to just wait for another year or 2.
3570k
16gb ram
780 classy
Was thinking of going sli, but I keep on hearing mixed things about sli still, although it seems like more games are getting supported at or near launch.
trying to figure out if there is anything i can do with my current setup in terms of upgrades for meaningful amount of performance gain atm or its better to just wait for another year or 2.
3570k
16gb ram
780 classy
Was thinking of going sli, but I keep on hearing mixed things about sli still, although it seems like more games are getting supported at or near launch.
Iacobellis
Junior Member
Thanks, I'll try that. Is foam padding the standard for some shields now? My brother's ASRock board from last year didn't include it.
appaws
Banned
Assuming you have a nice OC on that 3570k...and you already have an SSD....
There are performance gains to be had from SLI, of course.....but there are also some headaches that can go along with it.
What resolution are you gaming at?
BTW, I love Corgis and I like your avatar.
Bananajama
Banned
Question - not sure of the answer
SSD is going in my PC for the OS and at most 2 games that I know will be played often. (256GB)
The motheboard has only one 6gb/s Sata slot
The rest being 3gb/s
Should the SSD go in the 3GB as the fast read/write access makes up for the loss?
Or would the mechanical drive be fine/just as fast in the 3gb slot?
SSD is going in my PC for the OS and at most 2 games that I know will be played often. (256GB)
The motheboard has only one 6gb/s Sata slot
The rest being 3gb/s
Should the SSD go in the 3GB as the fast read/write access makes up for the loss?
Or would the mechanical drive be fine/just as fast in the 3gb slot?
Chairmanchuck
Member
I have a question regarding noise.
I will build a mini-itx HTPC to put XBMC on it, so I have a little portable mediaplayer. I found some cases for that.
I saw one that has an internal 200W PSU (which is acutally overkill) and one with an external PSU. I like the one with the internal one better, designwise, but I wonder if the 200W PSU will make a lot of noise.
I will build a mini-itx HTPC to put XBMC on it, so I have a little portable mediaplayer. I found some cases for that.
I saw one that has an internal 200W PSU (which is acutally overkill) and one with an external PSU. I like the one with the internal one better, designwise, but I wonder if the 200W PSU will make a lot of noise.
The SSD should go into the SATA 6Gb/s one as SSDs nowadays easily max out 3Gb/s. Mechanical drives don't come even close to that, let alone SATA 6Gb/s. The speed boost of SSDs are still noticeable in the older SATA versions, but you'd be leaving performance on the table.
Bananajama
Banned
Thank you very much
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)
PSU: Cooler Master VS V550S
Thanks for all your help, collective denizens of the PC GAF forum! This is my first build, I put it all together on Saturday and while some bits were a little fiddly it worked first try and has been running super-smooth ever since. Biggest fail of the build was when I attached the CPU's generic cooler and then remembered I had specifically purchased a better cooler, so I had to remove it and then clean off the remaining paste with rubbing alcohol. Whoops! No issues other than that.
LOVE YOU GAF <3
protomouse
Member
Hey GAF,
I'm building my significant other a gaming PC for Christmas. She isn't a techie, so I'm trying to configure a sensible build that "just works". She is super excited about The Witcher 3 and Dragon Age: Inquisition, so I'd like to build something that "wows" her with those games. Basically something that outdoes consoles by a fair margin. Parts will be bought in Germany. If there are deals I should be aware of, I'd love to hear it. I don't live in Germany myself, so I've just gone with Amazon.
Your Current Specs: None
Budget: €800-900 excluding monitor (Germany)
Main Use: AAA gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080, will need new monitor
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: The Witcher 3, goal is solid 60 FPS / outdoing consoles by fair margin
Looking to reuse any parts?: Just DVD unit, cabling and accessories where needed
When will you build?: Late December 2014 / Early January 2015
Will you be overclocking?: No
Here's what I've drafted:
i5-4460 (€164.97)
Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H (€70.98)
Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 (€69.89)
Crucial MX100 512GB SSD (€182.89)
Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB (€315.73)
Cooler Master N200 Case (€37.76)
EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular PSU (€79.35)
Total: €917.67 from Amazon Germany
http://de.pcpartpicker.com/p/rCGdvK
Comments? What are your thoughts on EVGA power supplies?
I'm building my significant other a gaming PC for Christmas. She isn't a techie, so I'm trying to configure a sensible build that "just works". She is super excited about The Witcher 3 and Dragon Age: Inquisition, so I'd like to build something that "wows" her with those games. Basically something that outdoes consoles by a fair margin. Parts will be bought in Germany. If there are deals I should be aware of, I'd love to hear it. I don't live in Germany myself, so I've just gone with Amazon.
Your Current Specs: None
Budget: €800-900 excluding monitor (Germany)
Main Use: AAA gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080, will need new monitor
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: The Witcher 3, goal is solid 60 FPS / outdoing consoles by fair margin
Looking to reuse any parts?: Just DVD unit, cabling and accessories where needed
When will you build?: Late December 2014 / Early January 2015
Will you be overclocking?: No
Here's what I've drafted:
i5-4460 (€164.97)
Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H (€70.98)
Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 (€69.89)
Crucial MX100 512GB SSD (€182.89)
Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB (€315.73)
Cooler Master N200 Case (€37.76)
EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular PSU (€79.35)
Total: €917.67 from Amazon Germany
http://de.pcpartpicker.com/p/rCGdvK
Comments? What are your thoughts on EVGA power supplies?
minor OC up to about 4.4 ghz for the cpu.
1440p. I feel like i'm at the edge of satisfactory performance/settings for modern games. Don't really need any upgrades atm, but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye out.
Corgis are indeed awesome. A pain in the butt sometimes, but there cute overload factor is worth it
zero shift
Banned
appaws
Banned
minor OC up to about 4.4 ghz for the cpu.
1440p. I feel like i'm at the edge of satisfactory performance/settings for modern games. Don't really need any upgrades atm, but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye out.
Corgis are indeed awesome. A pain in the butt sometimes, but there cute overload factor is worth it
Yeah, I'm not sure there is any need for you to upgrade anything right now. Certainly not the CPU...not enough potential gain there to be worth it. Maybe SLI if you can get a good deal on a second card....but there is no single card upgrade that makes sense for you.
You are at the point where those of us who have gone down the custom liquid cooling rabbit hole start looking around for projects of a purely aesthetic nature....
paolo11
Member
So basically the heatsink I am using right now will bottleneck or throttle my games on max settings, right?
No, its still better than stock intel heatsink, just not really fit for your purpose. I would probably go with a Corsair Hydro solution for this case too if it cant fit a Hyper 212 Evo.
Also Corsair Air 240 may not be such a good idea for SLI, it has 4 PCIE slots, meaning the GPUs are going to have to be right up against each other. Ideally you want a 5 PCIE Slot mATX case for SLI.
paolo11
Member
I'm kinda an idiot here but if you don't mind me asking, why would it not fit my purpose if my purpose is just gaming on max settings 1080P 60fps on SLI using a TV?
Will it overheat my system?
Will it bottleneck?
Will it ruin my GPUS?
What will not fit for my purpose?
It wont cause the CPU to overheat
Therefore it wont bottleneck
Nothing to do with GPU
Basically you have a relatively large case, and you are opting to use a heatsink that is more designed for cramped cases, cases where the PSU is up against the CPU Socket, or the case is very slim like a RVZ01. This fan is costing $30, and for that much you can get a decent tower style cooler like a Hyper 212 Evo, although in this scenerio that doesnt fit, there are probably similar ones that will for similar price and cool the CPU much better than the one you have selected.
And lastly, you are buying a Z series board and K series chip, so if you even want to overclock the CPU, that low profile CPU Cooler will just not give any temperature headroom above stock performance. And although i hate to recommend Corsair Hydro solutions, its like the best thing for this case.
And here is a photo of dual GPUs, there wont be any breathing room for the top GPU, and probably similar issue to a lesser extent on the bottom GPU.
Maybe a Corsair 350D will be better suited for your build. I would be happy with the following if your case sits on hard flooring, so that the PSU can intake from outside the bottom of the case.
IMO any person going for SLI isnt really classing as a steambox type person, that would be reserved for ITX builds, silent and single GPU solutions. Thats why the case market isnt really aligning with your goal of a small SLI build.
paolo11
Member
Thanks for this but let me ask you this. I don't do overclocking (becauase I'm a noob) and I just want to play games on max settings on stock on my EVGA superclocked 980 GTX SLI, should I still worry about dual GPUS due to no breathing room?
If I don't overclock and play long hours of gaming using the Corsair 240, will it ruin my Dual GPUs because they have no breathing space?
How much is the Corsair Hydro again? Show me the part.
Also, may be a banned site but...
http://www.gamespot.com/articles/building-the-ultimate-matx-sli-pc-with-intels-5960/1100-6423349/
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