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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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paskowitz

Member

paolo11

Member
All reference designs (and performance) are all the same. Look here for price differences: http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/compa...ard-gtx9804gd5,msi-video-card-gtx980gaming4g/

If you know cars, think of the reference design as a base corvette and the non reference as the Z06.

Edit: I had the wrong URL before

Ok, so looking at my rig:

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Paolo11/saved/7K62FT


After choosing the CPU Cooler and stuff, I am still on a risk of overheating my rig??


I would recommend the MSI reference design in a small case like that. The EVGAs will just pump heat into the case with nowhere to go and will probably run quite hot in there.
 

Exile550

Member
Guys, I need help choosing a GTX 970, there are so many model, brand overclock settings etc. Can some one enlighten me? I'm buying from Canada on NCIX.com. Budget is around 400$

Thanks!
 
SSDs are already very affordable right now. What capacity are you looking for ?
The Samsung 850 Pro is currently the king of SSDs but it's slightly more expensive than other options worth considering.

Ended up deciding on the Crucial MX100 256gig. About 100 off of Amazon. Should be more than enough space, I think. I only use my PC for gaming. I also bought Windows 8.1 and planning to do a fresh install.

I'm just nervous about installing this thing. It's been 3 years since I built my PC and I'm not technically savvy at all so hopefully I remember what I'm doing.
 

Kezen

Banned
Ended up deciding on the Crucial MX100 256gig. About 100 off of Amazon. Should be more than enough space, I think. I only use my PC for gaming. I also bought Windows 8.1 and planning to do a fresh install.

I'm just nervous about installing this thing. It's been 3 years since I built my PC and I'm not technically savvy at all so hopefully I remember what I'm doing.

Nothing easier, don't worry. Just plug your SSD and format it in your drives management.
 

paskowitz

Member
Ok, so looking at my rig:

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Paolo11/saved/7K62FT


After choosing the CPU Cooler and stuff, I am still on a risk of overheating my rig??

I would say you are right up on the limit. Like other have said, I would go with 2 MSI reference cards if you are going SLI. http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-gtx9804gd5

You won't really notice the difference between the reference and non reference cards, especially since you are not overclocking.

At this price range you could even go for an R9 295X2 (on sale). I cannot speak from experience but I would have to assume that one of those would be an amicable alternative.
 
thanksgaf.jpg


CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)
PSU: Cooler Master VS V550S

Thanks for all your help, collective denizens of the PC GAF forum! This is my first build, I put it all together on Saturday and while some bits were a little fiddly it worked first try and has been running super-smooth ever since. Biggest fail of the build was when I attached the CPU's generic cooler and then remembered I had specifically purchased a better cooler, so I had to remove it and then clean off the remaining paste with rubbing alcohol. Whoops! No issues other than that.

LOVE YOU GAF <3
Thread can move so quickly as I just got to this nice collage of photos, but it looks like your Hyper 212 fan is in a pull configuration. I think CM recommends a push configuration to get air blown across the heatsink since you already have a rear exhaust fan.
 

LilJoka

Member
I would say you are right up on the limit. Like other have said, I would go with 2 MSI reference cards if you are going SLI. http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-gtx9804gd5

You won't really notice the difference between the reference and non reference cards, especially since you are not overclocking.

At this price range you could even go for an R9 295X2 (on sale). I cannot speak from experience but I would have to assume that one of those would be an amicable alternative.

Heres my take on Ref vs non Ref on SLI config

Ref
+ Hot air directly exhausted
- Louder
- Hotter overall due to less cooling capacity

Non Ref
+ Better cooling capacity
+ Quieter
- Exhaust can effect CPU temps and case temp.

Thing is, if you run a small negative pressure, Non Ref seems better to me, as you can get rid or minimize the one problem that may occur. If he has

A lot of people also used to say not to run non ref in small ITX cases, but thats also been proven to be a myth with the recent surge in ITX builds and a better picture of the effects.

So i would still be inclined to go non ref coolers.


Fan options are
Front: (x2) 120mm - x2 Included
Top: (x2) 120mm - x1 included
Rear: (x2) 80mm
Bottom: (x2) 120mm
Side: (x1) 120mm

So you could run the CM Seidon push pull with one corsair front fan as an intake. Have another front fan at the front bottom for intake to the GPUs.
On the top have the 120mm fan. And then have 1/2 80mm fan/s above the GPUs to exhaust that air.

Or instead of running push pull with the Corsair front fan and Seidon, try put that fan as a side intake/exhaust.

Keeping air moving through the case with negative pressure will prevent hot air from lingering in the case,and if you use the CM Seidon as intake, it cant effect the CPU Temps.

Thread can move so quickly as I just got to this nice collage of photos, but it looks like your Hyper 212 fan is in a pull configuration. I think CM recommends a push configuration to get air blown across the heatsink since you already have a rear exhaust fan.

Correct, fan should on the right hand side, blowing air to the left hand side.
 

paolo11

Member
I would say you are right up on the limit. Like other have said, I would go with 2 MSI reference cards if you are going SLI. http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-gtx9804gd5

You won't really notice the difference between the reference and non reference cards, especially since you are not overclocking.

At this price range you could even go for an R9 295X2 (on sale). I cannot speak from experience but I would have to assume that one of those would be an amicable alternative.

Right up on the limit meaning if I play long hours of gaming using the EVGA, I'm screwed due to overheating?

(I'm planning to get the EVGA using my Amazon GC credit. MSI is more expensive in Amazon).
 
The cheapest decent motherboard I'd go with is the MSI Z97 PC MATE. No idea how much you want to spend. Your video card that you have now just meets Unity's minimum requirements, although Ubisoft has a thing for overstating requirements, and apparently Unity runs somewhat awful unoptimized or something right now. I checked the Assassin's Creed Unity PC performance thread and other people with the same video card you have are reporting 20-30 fps at high settings.


Are you sure you're using a DVI-D cable? I believe that's needed for 120 Hz.

What about non crap optimized games like Shadow of Modor, Dragon Age Inquisition & other cross gen games in general?
Will they at least run at high/60fps/1080p?
 

Bumhat

Member
Thread can move so quickly as I just got to this nice collage of photos, but it looks like your Hyper 212 fan is in a pull configuration. I think CM recommends a push configuration to get air blown across the heatsink since you already have a rear exhaust fan.

Good observation! Should I switch the fan to blow away from the case's fan then?
 

Nocturn

Neo Member
Hey guys I have a question. My GTX 970 will arrive this Thursday and I want to know if my FX8320 will bottleneck? I have it OC via CCC at 4.4 what do you guys think? I don't plan on upgrading my CPU until mid next year if anything so I'm hoping it won't.
 

jimboton

Member
Are you sure you're using a DVI-D cable? I believe that's needed for 120 Hz.

Yup. Same one I've been using with my 570, also 1080p@120hz without problem.

I've done some more tests, the problem seems to be exclusively related to the refresh rate:

1920*1080@120hz: Blue dots
1680*1050@120hz: Blue dots
1920*1080@110hz: Blue dots, only less of them
1920*1080@100hz: Blue dots, and red dots too! (wtf?)
1920*1080@60hz: no dots, even under graphical load (Lords of the Fallen)

So, even though the cable does work with my old 570, I think it's worth a try to get another one and see if it fixes anything. If it doesn't then it is the card. Oh well. Gonna get me some sleep now :p
 

paolo11

Member
Heres my take on Ref vs non Ref on SLI config

Ref
+ Hot air directly exhausted
- Louder
- Hotter overall due to less cooling capacity

Non Ref
+ Better cooling capacity
+ Quieter
- Exhaust can effect CPU temps and case temp.

Thing is, if you run a small negative pressure, Non Ref seems better to me, as you can get rid or minimize the one problem that may occur. If he has

A lot of people also used to say not to run non ref in small ITX cases, but thats also been proven to be a myth with the recent surge in ITX builds and a better picture of the effects.

So i would still be inclined to go non ref coolers.


Fan options are
Front: (x2) 120mm - x2 Included
Top: (x2) 120mm - x1 included
Rear: (x2) 80mm
Bottom: (x2) 120mm
Side: (x1) 120mm

So you could run the CM Seidon push pull with one corsair front fan as an intake. Have another front fan at the front bottom for intake to the GPUs.
On the top have the 120mm fan. And then have 1/2 80mm fan/s above the GPUs to exhaust that air.

Or instead of running push pull with the Corsair front fan and Seidon, try put that fan as a side intake/exhaust.

Keeping air moving through the case with negative pressure will prevent hot air from lingering in the case,and if you use the CM Seidon as intake, it cant effect the CPU Temps.



Correct, fan should on the right hand side, blowing air to the left hand side.

So my rig is good, right?

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Paolo11/saved/7K62FT
 

paskowitz

Member
Right up on the limit meaning if I play long hours of gaming using the EVGA, I'm screwed due to overheating?

(I'm planning to get the EVGA using my Amazon GC credit. MSI is more expensive in Amazon).

I do not have you exact config, so I cannot speak from absolute certainty. I would do a little research and see what types of temp/performance people are getting with SLI 980s in a mITX case.

It also depends on what type of games you are running...
 

Kezen

Banned
What about non crap optimized games like Shadow of Modor, Dragon Age Inquisition & other cross gen games in general?
Will they at least run at high/60fps/1080p?
No. You need more than that GPU wise even a notch below maximum settings.
Wait next year when AMD will have released their new GPUs, Nvidia won't sit idle either.

However, 60fps on "next-gen" games is totally possible....And..We are not 4 years into the generation.
Weird, huh ? :p
 

paolo11

Member
I do not have you exact config, so I cannot speak from absolute certainty. I would do a little research and see what types of temp/performance people are getting with SLI 980s in a mITX case.

It also depends on what type of games you are running...

Hmm.. Crysis 3, Witcher 2 and 3, Arkham series(most especially upcoming Arkham Knight).
 

Zombine

Banned
So, I did this stupid thing and I got my two monitors before I built my computer, and now I want to build one ASAP. I have been using Haz's guide, and here is what I'm looking at. Please feel free to guide me to the correct components if I totally fucked up. I picked an i7 because I work in entertainment and plan on doing a lot of media related things from home. No idea what case I want yet.

Take a look and help me make sure it's good to go:

DVD Burner: Asus DVD burner
Storage: WD Blue 1TB
Power supply: seasonic M12II 520
Ram: Ripjaws 2x4gb
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X SLi
Processor: i7 4790k
SSD: crucial MX100 256
Video Card: ASUS STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5 GeForce GTX 970 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support G-SYNC Support Video Card

And like I said, I don't know what case I want. Please be kind, but I do need help if I went wrong with the video card. This will be my first build ever, and I would like to play it safe and make sure everything can be set up fine. If I made a mistake please let me know so I can fix it. I'm sitting at about 1.1k right there.
 

RGM79

Member
What about non crap optimized games like Shadow of Modor, Dragon Age Inquisition & other cross gen games in general?
Will they at least run at high/60fps/1080p?

DA Inquisition recommends a Radeon 7870 (4870 minimum), you'll meet the requirements easily. According to Shadow of Mordor benchmark videos, the 7970 can get 60fps on Ultra. You may have to go medium-high settings for other games. It's hard to say in general, and it'll depend on the game's requirements.

Yup. Same one I've been using with my 570, also 1080p@120hz without problem.

I've done some more tests, the problem seems to be exclusively related to the refresh rate:

1920*1080@120hz: Blue dots
1680*1050@120hz: Blue dots
1920*1080@110hz: Blue dots, only less of them
1920*1080@100hz: Blue dots, and red dots too! (wtf?)
1920*1080@60hz: no dots, even under graphical load (Lords of the Fallen)

So, even though the cable does work with my old 570, I think it's worth a try to get another one and see if it fixes anything. If it doesn't then it is the card. Oh well. Gonna get me some sleep now :p

It seems that other people have solved similar problems by replacing the cable. Good luck.
 

appaws

Banned
So, I did this stupid thing and I got my two monitors before I built my computer, and now I want to build one ASAP. I have been using Haz's guide, and here is what I'm looking at. Please feel free to guide me to the correct components if I totally fucked up. I picked an i7 because I work in entertainment and plan on doing a lot of media related things from home. No idea what case I want yet.

Take a look and help me make sure it's good to go:

DVD Burner: Asus DVD burner
Storage: WD Blue 1TB
Power supply: seasonic M12II 520
Ram: Ripjaws 2x4gb
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X SLi
Processor: i7 4790k
SSD: crucial MX100 256
Video Card: ASUS STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5 GeForce GTX 970 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support G-SYNC Support Video Card

And like I said, I don't know what case I want. Please be kind, but I do need help if I went wrong with the video card. This will be my first build ever, and I would like to play it safe and make sure everything can be set up fine. If I made a mistake please let me know so I can fix it. I'm sitting at about 1.1k right there.

That looks good to me...

You will also need a CPU cooler, many people go with something like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, which does a good job for only around 30 bucks.

You should switch out the "Ripjaws" RAM with "Ares" RAM, which is low profile so it does not stick up and interfere with the placement of a heatsink. Should be around the same price.

There are a lot of cases for you to check out in the OP. Many people love the cases by Fractal Design and Phanteks...they are probably the two most popular suggestions here. I personally like to recommend the NZXT S340....a newer case with a good low price and a very up-to-date design.

Also, the youtube channel called HardwareCanucks has a ton of short video reviews of lots of different cases you could check out.
 

dcassell

Banned
Hey guys, I've encountered a really frustrating problem with my GPU and monitor setup, and cannot seem to find any way to fix it. Since building my computer, I've experienced screen tearing about 2/3 of the way up the screen when scrolling or watching videos in Chrome, and when running any games in Borderless Windowed/Windowed mode. When applications are full screen a vsynced, it's not an issue. However, with some current titles being broken without the use of Borderless Windowed mode (COD and Shadows of Mordor), I'm hoping to try and fix this issue so I don't have to deal with this consistent tear in my screen. Note that this tear is only in one spot, and it doesn't affect the entire screen. The line will occasionally move up and down when vertically moving the camera.

So far I have tried: Enabling Aero in Windows 7, a different monitor, enabling vsync through Nvidia console, and unplugging my second monitor. It seems to be an issue between the refresh rate of my monitor (60 hz) and Windows itself, even though everything is set to 60 hz.

Currently running:
Windows 7 Ultimate (64 bit)
GTX 970
i5 4690k
Samsung 60hz monitor
Asus 75hz monitor (Currently unplugged)

This has been an issue since getting the PC built, although I have been able to work around until now. Let me know if there's anything I should try, or if I should just flash my drivers and reinstall to see if that helps.
 

Antti

Member
Is the Corsair CX600M a good PSU? The place where I'm ordering my computer from doesn't have the ones mentioned in the chart in stock. Any other alternatives?
 

Zombine

Banned
That looks good to me...

You will also need a CPU cooler, many people go with something like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, which does a good job for only around 30 bucks.

You should switch out the "Ripjaws" RAM with "Ares" RAM, which is low profile so it does not stick up and interfere with the placement of a heatsink. Should be around the same price.

There are a lot of cases for you to check out in the OP. Many people love the cases by Fractal Design and Phanteks...they are probably the two most popular suggestions here. I personally like to recommend the NZXT S340....a newer case with a good low price and a very up-to-date design.

Also, the youtube channel called HardwareCanucks has a ton of short video reviews of lots of different cases you could check out.

Thanks for the help! That case you recommended is basically what I was going for. It definitely is a gaming PC, but I don't want it to look like one. That blends nicely with the other furniture and is super sleek.
 

Lunar15

Member
Anyone with a Corsair Air 240 have any impressions? Thinking about going mATX and I'm curious about cases. Any other things to take into consideration?

I am so bad at doing this, I ask way too many random questions because I change my mind every three seconds.
 

Lunar15

Member
I guess my bigger question is, what are the drawbacks of a smaller form factor build? I'm particularly worried about heat, is this more of an issue with a smaller build?
 

appaws

Banned
Anyone with a Corsair Air 240 have any impressions? Thinking about going mATX and I'm curious about cases. Any other things to take into consideration?

I am so bad at doing this, I ask way too many random questions because I change my mind every three seconds.

I don't have one myself....but there are very good video reviews available:

(short)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgwzyBk3r6A
(detailed)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5OmcQxhP24

I guess my bigger question is, what are the drawbacks of a smaller form factor build? I'm particularly worried about heat, is this more of an issue with a smaller build?

There are drawbacks to a smaller build, of course. But it has gotten better than it used to be as case manufacturers have dedicated more effort to it. The drawbacks are having less room to work in when you are building, and the fact that you have to be just a little careful when selecting components. You can't have a lot of extra components....there won't be room for your 10 3TB HDDs worth of porn.

Heat can be an issue, but one that can be dealt with by selecting the right parts and building carefully. MKenyon's small form factor build sheets in the OP are a good place to start.
 

Dance Inferno

Unconfirmed Member
I built my first ever PC and, miracle of all miracles, the damn thing actually turns on (well, after I fiddled with the RAM and realized I hadn't seated it properly). Now my problem is I can't figure out how to install Windows off my USB stick. I created a boot drive on the USB using Boot Camp Assistant on my MacBook, but my computer keeps asking me to "insert boot disk." Not really sure what I'm missing here.

Any tips?
 
I built my first ever PC and, miracle of all miracles, the damn thing actually turns on (well, after I fiddled with the RAM and realized I hadn't seated it properly). Now my problem is I can't figure out how to install Windows off my USB stick. I created a boot drive on the USB using Boot Camp Assistant on my MacBook, but my computer keeps asking me to "insert boot disk." Not really sure what I'm missing here.

Any tips?

Did you set the bios menu to boot off USB slots first ahead of anything else?
 

Perfec7_

Neo Member
Hi guys! I've selected almost all of the parts that I'd like to use to build my first PC based on the awesome guide in the OP.

I was wondering if you guys could give me some tips or suggestions for this build. I'm totally open to swapping out pretty much any component if they're better/have different advantages, and similarly priced. I'm not very experienced with this, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Case: Phanteks &#8220; Enthoo Pro Series &#8220;
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...1854003&cm_re=Phanteks-_-11-854-003-_-Product

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K Haswell Quad-Core 4.0GHz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9117369&cm_re=i7_4790K-_-19-117-369-_-Product

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD5H LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...=GIGABYTE_GA-Z97X-UD5H-_-13-128-707-_-Product

GPU: EVGA 04G-2978-KR GeForce GTX 970 FTW 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 ACX 2.0 PCI Express 3.0
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487077&cm_re=970x-_-14-487-077-_-Product

RAM: Crucial Ballistix Tactical BLT2KIT8G3D1608DT1TX0 16GB 240-Pin DIMM DDR3 1600
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006YG9C6C/?tag=neogaf0e-20

SSD: Crucial MX100 CT256MX100SSD1 2.5" 256GB SATA III
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...re=Crucial_MX100_256GB-_-20-148-820-_-Product

HDD: Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...e=1TB_WD_Blue_WD10EZEX-_-22-236-339-_-Product

PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 220-G2-0750-XR 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...7&cm_re=EVGA_Supernova-_-17-438-017-_-Product

DVD Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk 24X
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=SATA_DVD_Burner-_-27-135-204-_-Product

Soundcard: ASUS Xonar DGX PCI-E GX2.5 Audio Engine Sound Cards
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TMZ1BK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

CPU Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...cm_re=CM_Hyper_212_EVO-_-35-103-099-_-Product

Keyboard: Rosewill Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Red Switch (RK-9000RE)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F38Y7Y/?tag=neogaf0e-20

So, some basic questions:

Should I add another fan? Will the two stock fans be enough on this case? Could any issues arise from this?

How necessary is a sound card? I love listening to my music, and I always listen in high quality (with ok, not great headphones). Think this is worth the $30-40 bucks?

Is it worth getting an i7 at all if I'm mainly going to be using this for some gaming (a mix of indie and the occasional AAA), browsing the internet, and as a media device? Are i7's more future proof, or do they have any extra advantages worth the price?

Is that RAM any good? I really couldn't find much for RAM, and I'm really not sure where to start. Any suggestions here would be great.

I think that's it! Thanks to everyone who's willing to help me out with this. I can't wait to start PC gaming again. I remember upgrading my PC the first time when HL2 came out, but I haven't done it at all since then. I'm in desperate need of something new.

P.S.
Will it max HL3 1080p when that comes out?
 
Good observation! Should I switch the fan to blow away from the case's fan then?
No, if your rear fan is exhausting air the toy want the fan on the right of the heatsink blowing towards the rear can.

That way you'll get more airflow across the heatsink and the hot air will be exhausted straight out the case.
 

RGM79

Member
Hi guys! I've selected almost all of the parts that I'd like to use to build my first PC based on the awesome guide in the OP.

I was wondering if you guys could give me some tips or suggestions for this build. I'm totally open to swapping out pretty much any component if they're better/have different advantages, and similarly priced. I'm not very experienced with this, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Should I add another fan? Will the two stock fans be enough on this case? Could any issues arise from this?

How necessary is a sound card? I love listening to my music, and I always listen in high quality (with ok, not great headphones). Think this is worth the $30-40 bucks?

Is it worth getting an i7 at all if I'm mainly going to be using this for some gaming (a mix of indie and the occasional AAA), browsing the internet, and as a media device? Are i7's more future proof, or do they have any extra advantages worth the price?

Is that RAM any good? I really couldn't find much for RAM, and I'm really not sure where to start. Any suggestions here would be great.

I think that's it! Thanks to everyone who's willing to help me out with this. I can't wait to start PC gaming again. I remember upgrading my PC the first time when HL2 came out, but I haven't done it at all since then. I'm in desperate need of something new.

P.S.
Will it max HL3 1080p when that comes out?

You stand to save a bit if you do some comparison shopping, check for rebates, and maybe opt to get certain parts from different stores (or pricematch certain parts from other vendors). I recommend the pcpartpicker.com website, it's excellent for comparison shopping, comprehensive parts lists, and even helpfully lists technical/physical incompatibilities if any exist. Here's a list of your parts in the website's system. You also seem to have forgotten to include a video card. As for the rest of your questions:

If you are keen on spending around $1500 (I assume including the video card), then it wouldn't hurt to spend money on some cooling fans, as well. Silent fans are nice to have. Here are some recommendations. Insufficient airflow can result in higher temperatures. Too many strong fans will be loud, though.

Sound cards have become largely unnecessary. Onboard sound has more than enough features for most people, and I feel that sound quality is mostly subjective. If your headphones aren't that great to begin with, then a sound card won't change very much. It's up to you if you want to keep it on the list. Then again, because sound quality is subjective, if you want it, then get it. Reviews are pretty good everywhere I look.

Like sound cards, DVD drives have fallen away from popular use. You could cut that cost out too, unless you have a need for it.

You could go down to the $230 i5 4690k and be perfectly fine. There's little benefit to going up to an i7 purely for occasional gaming since the main differences are the addition of hyperthreading (better multi-threading for certain few programs that can use it) and slightly higher clock speed (not really worth the cost difference).

The RAM is fine, Crucial is a good brand. It's also low profile which is always a plus (unlikely to interfere with wider, low-hanging CPU heatsinks.) If you really need to save money, you could go to a cheaper set of 16GB like G.Skill Aegis, but it's only a $15 savings.

And finally, a decent video card to round out the setup would be the GTX 970 (all round stellar reviews, excellent performance for price, just came out weeks ago), which happens to bring the total of your system to just about $1500.
 

DR2K

Banned
Is there a decent gaming PC I can buy that's upgradable so I can do some of things in the OT piece by piece. I think it would be too overwhelming to build one from scratch.
 

RGM79

Member
Is there a decent gaming PC I can buy that's upgradable so I can do some of things in the OT piece by piece. I think it would be too overwhelming to build one from scratch.
If you don't mind a $50 service cost, you can choose the parts that you want for the PC, and then add the linked item. NCIX will assemble the parts into the PC, then ship the complete system to you, including all packaging materials and accessories of the PC parts in case you need to call on warranty and need proof of purchase like a box or UPC code. It also includes a 1 year warranty from NCIX.

However, it's not too hard to assemble a PC. Yes, there are technical considerations, but this thread is here to help you troubleshoot with choosing parts, compatibility, and even assembly and troubleshooting. The only tool you need is a Philips screwdriver. There's countless youtube videos on PC assembly that are essentially guided walkthroughs.
 

Skyzard

Banned

XFX 850W Black Edition 80+ Gold Fully-Modular Power Supply

Nothing short circuited it on my end. Happened when I first installed it and on turning it on. It basically popped and fizzled briefly then a burning smell. Bust the sound card. Working okay now... :/

Amazon time, going to have to try my luck with the same model again...(and they just dropped the price too :/). I'm thinking I should try switching it on without plugging anything in this time...definitely not the sound card, tempted to disconnect the GPU too. Just going to look for signs of damage to the mobo now.
 

LilJoka

Member
XFX 850W Black Edition 80+ Gold Fully-Modular Power Supply

Nothing short circuited it on my end. Happened when I first installed it and on turning it on. It basically popped and fizzled briefly then a burning smell. Bust the sound card. Working okay now... :/

Amazon time, going to have to try my luck with the same model again...(and they just dropped the price too :/). I'm thinking I should try switching it on without plugging anything in this time...definitely not the sound card, tempted to disconnect the GPU too. Just going to look for signs of damage to the mobo now.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/power_supply/xfx_black_edition_850w_atx_psu/4

They loaded theirs up to capacity and it went bang. I wouldnt buy another.
 

RGM79

Member
Is this SAMSUNG 840 EVO good? What's the difference in the SAMSUNG 850 Pro and is it worth the price difference?
The 850 Pro is an update of the 840 Pro, it has a new type of memory technology going into the memory chips that makes it slightly better in just about all areas. MSRP places the 850 at just $10 or so more than the 840, so if it goes on sale it seems to be a pretty good product to get, although the 840 is still an excellent choice and should generally be cheaper to get than the 850 will be.
 
The 850 Pro is an update of the 840 Pro, it has a new type of memory technology going into the memory chips that makes it slightly better in just about all areas. MSRP places the 850 at just $10 or so more than the 840, so if it goes on sale it seems to be a pretty good product to get, although the 840 is still an excellent choice and should generally be cheaper to get than the 850 will be.

Thanks for the clear answer. The markup in my local store for the 850 is around $75 so I think I'm gonna go with the 840. My first SSD!
 
Hey guys, I'm in need of a little advice.
Basically my rigs currently is made up of:

Intel 4670 (not K)3.4 GHz
8 GB RAM
EVGA 760 GTX

Now, I'm considering buying a 970 GTX but the thing is, I'm not sure if I should buy one now or wait until the next series.

I'm going to be gaming at 1080p, I'm willing to turn down settings to get 60 FPS, I'll even lock it to 30 if 60's not possible. Is it really worth getting a 970 now or is it worth waiting until the next series to get the best value I can get there?
 
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