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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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SHADES

Member
PCI-E 3.0 spec states the 16x slot can deliver up to 75w. A 6-pin PCI-E power connector can also provide 75w and 8-pin can deliver 150w. Maximum draw for the spec is 300w.

The AMD R9 295x2 and NVIDIA Titan Z use 2 x 8-pin, which could pull up to 375w (the 295x2 peak power rating is a crazy 500w!), but these are both outside of PCI-E 3.0 spec. They are also dual GPU boards.

For a single GPU to draw 375w (16x slot +6+6+8) would be unprecedented and probably put it out of reach of the usual customers for the x80 product. I suspect that the extra power connector is so NVIDIA can explore the limits of the design.

EDIT: Not that unprecedented I see. The Kingpin has no power restrictions though. 450w max draw for that card. Jesus.

Thanks for explaining that for me :) this I why I read this thread daily, everyday I'm learning something new ( and I suspect many others are too).
 
Ah yes the 250D does have an aluminium front bezel, so its isnt so bad. Just think the Node 304 is a much neater solution. No need for a H100i, the cooler will do nothing because the thermal paste under the CPU lid will always be the limiting factor. And considering you probably arent going to test this for long periods, you are probably not going to overclock to the edge of stability, so the Hyper 212 is the solution to go for. Its quieter and performs excellent for a mid range OC like 4.4Ghz. It also cant break like the Corsair Hydro coolers are notorious for.
Overclocking will give a big boost to any emulator, so you should probably go with the K CPU, i5 or i7.
The emulator thing would be mostly a novelty, it'll be mainly used for normal games and sims. As such, I'm considering the ease of going with an i7-4790 at 3.6GHz, vs getting a medium overclock out of an i5-4690K. Isn't the i7 going to be good enough for the next two or three years at least? I mean I'm still running an old i7 870 at stock... Also considering the guy's electricity bills... wouldn't an OC'ed i5 drink more than a stock i7?
 

SHADES

Member
what is your PSU?
I ran GTX 760 and 750 Ti with NAXN 500W Bronze a few weeks and then switched to Seasonic X660 Gold. both run fine @ max load/mining. it's just Bronze PSU draw more Watt from the socket (380W vs 330W)

It's a EVGA 500w B. We got our gas and electricity bill today and considering they always end up owing us money at the end of the year, let's just say we had quite a shock! And I'll be getting a new PSU if I intend to run both cards. :0
 

Aretak

Member
Phew... finally finished getting my new machine up and running after starting around seven hours ago. I'm rather enjoying the difference between the old and the new already.
speccyofs62.jpg
newspeccyw6sgl.png
No major hiccups during the build itself, though Windows 8 wasn't having any of my new machine and refused to activate. I spent half an hour on the phone with Microsoft resolving that. Had some helpful guy take over my PC remotely and walk me through some steps to get it to cooperate and activate. I was quite impressed with how seamless it all was.

A new monitor is next on the shopping list. I think I'll wait to replace the 7850 until the 800 series arrives though.
 

LilJoka

Member
The emulator thing would be mostly a novelty, it'll be mainly used for normal games and sims. As such, I'm considering the ease of going with an i7-4790 at 3.6GHz, vs getting a medium overclock out of an i5-4690K. Isn't the i7 going to be good enough for the next two or three years at least? I mean I'm still running an old i7 870 at stock... Also considering the guy's electricity bills... wouldn't an OC'ed i5 drink more than a stock i7?

Dont worry about the electricity, the CPU only uses the higher clocks if demanded to do si, otherwise it wont clock up very high or even push more voltage. Intel have been very clever with power consumption and it even follows into overclocked chips.

Emulators still dont take advantage of multiple cores let alone threads very well, so its better to have higher clocks than more cores/threads after 4 cores. For games, pretty much Watch_Dogs and Titanfall and some MMOs are the ones that like the beefier CPUs 4c/8t. Every other game will be fine with a 4c/4t thread CPU, even without an overclock for atleast a year or two. But of course im sure as time goes on the extra cores/threads will start to play a bigger role in newer games.
If you can afford the i7, get it. Overclock it later. If you cant afford the i7, get the i5 and overclock it later. The i7 just may futureproof you a little longer. Both have very high single and two core turbo clocks, so emulators will still get a benefit here. Intel CPUs use higher clock speeds when less cores are being used, very useful for single threaded games or even emulators.
 
The reason why this board has a tendancy to throttle the higher performance AMD CPUs is because its only made to handle 95W processors, and it has no North Bridge heatsinks.

The FX6300 is 95W so i dont know why it should throttle it even under maximum usage. If your case has decent airflow and you use a down facing fan then you shouldnt have an issue.

But I seriously recommend saving up for a new system than dump more money into a platform that really isnt going anywhere. What GPU do you have?

My case has two fans, one on the front and one on the rear. Would that be enough?

Oh, and I have a R9 270, just bought it recently.

Also, these are my temperatures on idle:

8kOoFBT.jpg
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Help me, GAF.

If I build a gaming PC and keep it next door to my gaming room (plasterboard stud separating wall, not solid brick), will my wireless keyboard and mouse work in the gaming room? I mean, will the wireless signal get through OK?
Video and audio will be sent through an HDMI wall socket.

PS any tips for a good wireless keyboard?

Depends how far. The logitech nano receivers might struggle through a wall. You could use a USB extender cable and run that alongside your HDMI cable through your wall, to get it as close as possible to where you'll use it

360 pad and wireless receiver should be ok - that has pretty decent range
 

LilJoka

Member
My case has two fans, one on the front and one on the rear. Would that be enough?

Oh, and I have a R9 270, just bought it recently.

Also, these are my temperatures on idle:

http://i.imgur.com/8kOoFBT.jpg[/IM][/QUOTE]

I think if you got something like a Scythe Shuriken, the down facing fan will cool the VRMs and prevent the FX6300 from throttling. I think your current CPU will bottleneck your GPU, not to informed on the AMD CPUs but i think the FX6300 should give enough grunt to free that GPU.

I also ran a Phenom 955 (120W) on an Asus board that had a 95W spec, and i ran it overclocked at 3.8Ghz, no problems, but yeah it wasnt advised because i must of been breaking 150W atleast. And i had a Hyper 212 so literally no active cooling on the NB. I however did have a small heatsink on the NB, which your AsRock lacks, but think itll be fine if its a 95W CPU.
 
I think if you got something like a Scythe Shuriken, the down facing fan will cool the VRMs and prevent the FX6300 from throttling. I think your current CPU will bottleneck your GPU, not to informed on the AMD CPUs but i think the FX6300 should give enough grunt to free that GPU.

I also ran a Phenom 955 (120W) on an Asus board that had a 95W spec, and i ran it overclocked at 3.8Ghz, no problems, but yeah it wasnt advised because i must of been breaking 150W atleast. And i had a Hyper 212 so literally no active cooling on the NB. I however did have a small heatsink on the NB, which your AsRock lacks, but think itll be fine if its a 95W CPU.

I'm just using the stock fans though. The thing is I'm scared the FX 6300 will perform even worse than the Athlon 640 thanks to throttling, and I can't spend to much money on buying another motherboard or other stuff at the moment. Also, new motherboard means I would have to format my HDD, right? Yeah, that would be annoying.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm just using the stock fans though. The thing is I'm scared the FX 6300 will perform even worse than the Athlon 640 thanks to throttling, and I can't spend to much money on buying another motherboard or other stuff at the moment. Also, new motherboard means I would have to format my HDD, right? Yeah, that would be annoying.

I don't see why it should throttle considering it's 95w and the board is rated for 95w CPUs, plus it's listed in the CPU Support list for your board.
 

rabhw

Member
What do you guys do with old but still pretty good computers?

I've got a machine sitting in my basement with 8gb DDR2, Q6600 @ 3.2, etc.

The video card died on it and I've bought a new PC since then, but it just seems like a waste to let it sit there.

Prices for similar machines on buy-sell websites are paltry so I'm left with nothing to do with it.

I've been tempted to build a little living room PC but finding an LGA775 mITX board is basically impossible these days, thus the cycle continues...
 
Dont worry about the electricity, the CPU only uses the higher clocks if demanded to do si, otherwise it wont clock up very high or even push more voltage. Intel have been very clever with power consumption and it even follows into overclocked chips.

Emulators still dont take advantage of multiple cores let alone threads very well, so its better to have higher clocks than more cores/threads after 4 cores. For games, pretty much Watch_Dogs and Titanfall and some MMOs are the ones that like the beefier CPUs 4c/8t. Every other game will be fine with a 4c/4t thread CPU, even without an overclock for atleast a year or two. But of course im sure as time goes on the extra cores/threads will start to play a bigger role in newer games.
If you can afford the i7, get it. Overclock it later. If you cant afford the i7, get the i5 and overclock it later. The i7 just may futureproof you a little longer. Both have very high single and two core turbo clocks, so emulators will still get a benefit here. Intel CPUs use higher clock speeds when less cores are being used, very useful for single threaded games or even emulators.
Makes sense, thanks.

I have another concern about the Node case - as I plan to reuse a PSU, I fear it's going to be very tight in terms of cables, it's not modular so there's gonna a whole bunch of crap that needs to be stuffed somewhere, probably right in the way of a long GPU. I think the 250D will be a bit more accommodating in this way?
 

LilJoka

Member
Makes sense, thanks.

I have another concern about the Node case - as I plan to reuse a PSU, I fear it's going to be very tight in terms of cables, it's not modular so there's gonna a whole bunch of crap that needs to be stuffed somewhere, probably right in the way of a long GPU. I think the 250D will be a bit more accommodating in this way?

Good point, nearly forgot about that.
Though some bad news, that PSU is using a very old design, which was probably one of the better ones back in the day, but it uses 3 12v Rails split like so:


So you will be trying to run the half the CPU (potentially overclocked (47.5w stock/75W overclocked), GPU (200W, 250W peak), Hard disks and SSD, Motherboard components from 24A.

Thats a total draw of ~300W at stock, ~350W overclocked, which is 25A or 29A. So this PSU is not good enough. You need a PSU that has a single 12v rail such as the Seasonic G 550 or the Coolermaster V550. The former will fit in the Node 304 no problems.
 

kennah

Member
What do you guys do with old but still pretty good computers?

I've got a machine sitting in my basement with 8gb DDR2, Q6600 @ 3.2, etc.

The video card died on it and I've bought a new PC since then, but it just seems like a waste to let it sit there.

Prices for similar machines on buy-sell websites are paltry so I'm left with nothing to do with it.

I've been tempted to build a little living room PC but finding an LGA775 mITX board is basically impossible these days, thus the cycle continues...
Turn it into a NAS.
And a good q6600 still fetches like $40 and up on its own. You could probably get 100 for everything. I kinda regret selling all of my C2 computers.
 

tarheel91

Member
oh ok. So is this roughly the same power but a little cheaper? If so I'm okay with that because I prefer Nvidia. I think I was more concerned about the price difference between the 770 and 780. It doesn't seem like much of a jump when comparing FPS. Maybe I'm missing something..

I got mine for $370 and it has one of if not the best cooler on the market. It's significantly cheaper than the 780.

It's going to be a little more power efficient and provide a more mature set of software (e.g. Shadowplay). It comes down to your personal preferences whether that justifies spending $100+ more.
 

Teschnique

Neo Member
It's been a while since I upgraded my PC and I just got a GeForce GTX 780 for free so it is now a moral imperative that I build something around it. Now I need your help making sure I don't mess it up :)

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vKbFK8

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ Amazon) -- (Maybe $50 cheaper @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($35.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 EXTREME4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($128.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($78.29 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($78.29 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $971.51​

I am looking to overclock the 4790K.

Does this seem like a good configuration? Is the PSU enough for this or should I go for an HX750 instead? I am also not sure about the memory since I really just picked it because it's blue.
 

Wulfegang

Member
Hey all. I am going to be taking my PC apart, cleaning it out and trying to clean up the cabling but have a question about the water cooling. One of the fans on the radiator of my Corsair H110 started rattling and I was wondering if the Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition 140mm fans would be ok until I can get some SP140's. I also considered just replacing the fan that is rattling with one of the AF140's and leaving the other stock fan on since it has a higher static pressure. Thanks for any help.
 

NJDEN

Member
All right... I was on the verge of a complete system rehaul, then I realized that 2015 is going to be a massive year for computers and gaming. Does anyone else think its wise to just wait till 2015 when we will see DDR4 Ram, Nvidia 800 series, & Intel Skylake processors?

DDR4- Last time we saw a ram evolution was like seven years ago.

800 Series / Maxwell- No longer based on kepler tech & the performance gains and price reduction are reported to be extensive. Also rumors of it having high on-board ram for 4k.

Intel Skylake- First chipset reported to utilize DDR4 in desktops & uses the new LGA 1151 socket.

From 2012-2013 and 2013-2014 the jump in technology just wasn't that extensive, but 2015 promises to debut in my opinion a new generation components.
 

kennah

Member
H100 uses 120mm fans.

But sure. What cpu? Unless you're running a delided processor the fans won't make that much difference.
 

Wulfegang

Member
H100 uses 120mm fans.

But sure. What cpu? Unless you're running a delided processor the fans won't make that much difference.

I forgot how to keyboard and meant to type Corsair H110. I am running an i7-4770k OC'd to 4.2Ghz. I am also going to mount the fans under the radiator since my case has vents on top for air flow.
 

Renekton

Member
All right... I was on the verge of a complete system rehaul, then I realized that 2015 is going to be a massive year for computers and gaming. Does anyone else think its wise to just wait till 2015 when we will see DDR4 Ram, Nvidia 800 series, & Intel Skylake processors?

DDR4- Last time we saw a ram evolution was like seven years ago.

800 Series / Maxwell- No longer based on kepler tech & the performance gains and price reduction are reported to be extensive. Also rumors of it having high on-board ram for 4k.

Intel Skylake- First chipset reported to utilize DDR4 in desktops & uses the new LGA 1151 socket.

From 2012-2013 and 2013-2014 the jump in technology just wasn't that extensive, but 2015 promises to debut in my opinion a new generation components.
Realistically don't expect affordable DDR4 and real GPU node advance (FinFET 16nm) until 2016.
 
Good point, nearly forgot about that.
Though some bad news, that PSU is using a very old design, which was probably one of the better ones back in the day, but it uses 3 12v Rails split like so:



So you will be trying to run the half the CPU (potentially overclocked (47.5w stock/75W overclocked), GPU (200W, 250W peak), Hard disks and SSD, Motherboard components from 24A.

Thats a total draw of ~300W at stock, ~350W overclocked, which is 25A or 29A. So this PSU is not good enough. You need a PSU that has a single 12v rail such as the Seasonic G 550 or the Coolermaster V550. The former will fit in the Node 304 no problems.
Well spotted, thank you!
 

Stat!

Member
So my first ever computer is built but I need a headset as my apple earbuds don't work (even with a splitter on windows 8 but if someone can help me, that would be great).

Im in the market for a 50-60$ Canadian mic/headset combo that is comfortable. Im not an audiophile but I really care about comfort for wearing it for more than an hour without it hurting. I don't need it to be perfectly noise-cancelling or anything, just comfortable.

Any recommendations?

I was looking at these two.

Razer Carcharias

Siberia SteelSeries 2
 

Mrbob

Member
As a green team member for the past decade ( think my last ati card was the 9800 pro ) I have to say my R9 290 is suiting me fine. I was in the same situation where I didn't really want to pay the price for a 780 but wanted better performance than the 770. The R9 290 prices are now heading south of 400 dollars which puts it in the sweet spot for price to performance. These are models with custom coolers too.


Oh wow, then I guess a couple potential degrees cooler is the difference?
 

tarheel91

Member
So my first ever computer is built but I need a headset as my apple earbuds don't work (even with a splitter on windows 8 but if someone can help me, that would be great).

Im in the market for a 50-60$ Canadian mic/headset combo that is comfortable. Im not an audiophile but I really care about comfort for wearing it for more than an hour without it hurting. I don't need it to be perfectly noise-cancelling or anything, just comfortable.

Any recommendations?

I was looking at these two.

Razer Carcharias

Siberia SteelSeries 2

SteelSeries is comfortable. Audio quality is alright.
 
I need some advice regarding buying a router. My current one drops my internet connection from time to time which is really annoying during online play. It's currently sitting in my bedroom and is connected to a home plug. Another home plug is in the lounge and is connected to the Sky (my ISP) router.

I've seen a couple on sale at Amazon and I was wondering which one is better or if there is a better alternative. I've been looking at the TP-Link TL-WDR3600 N600 and the TP-Link TL-WR1043ND.

What do you think PCGaf?
 

Drake

Member
Hmmm I have an interesting problem. My 4790k seems to be running hot, really hot. The idle temps are fine, but once I start doing anything that is CPU intensive the temperatures jump like crazy. Like 100c crazy. It can't be the heat sink because I tried the evo 212 and I was getting high temps and then I tried the stock heat sink with the same results. I either got a bad CPU, or my motherboard sensor is not working properly.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hmmm I have an interesting problem. My 4790k seems to be running hot, really hot. The idle temps are fine, but once I start doing anything that is CPU intensive the temperatures jump like crazy. Like 100c crazy. It can't be the heat sink because I tried the evo 212 and I was getting high temps and then I tried the stock heat sink with the same results. I either got a bad CPU, or my motherboard sensor is not working properly.
Heatwellllllllllll.

Try remounting properly with thermal paste (watch a 212 video) and make sure you are screwing down all the way with light pressure.

Idle? Load? How long? What program? Use RealTemp. Does touching the base of the cooler burn your fingers off or no?
 

Diablos

Member
RAM will be fine with 1.65. I can't speak to the NB, are you still having the same sort of heat problems that you were before?
Thanks. I figured. Crucial makes good stuff (when it doesn't fail on you in the first few months at least, thankfully I got a good batch as I'm sure it would have crapped out on me over the past 12 months if it were bad).

The NB seems to be fine. VRM is good too. OC Genie has that all sorted out. With the CPU being at no more than 3.8GHz I don't need to manually increase the vcore either, which is always a good thing especially for my board's embarrassingly bad VRM design. CPU temps never go above 67C or so with my TX3.
 

lowrider007

Licorice-flavoured booze?
When it comes to PSUs, how old is too old?

Depends on the quality of the PSU tbh, I recently upgraded from a 7 year old Enermax PSU and now my brother is using it in his machine, tbh if it wasn't for the fact that it wouldn't power my new GPU I would of continued using it.
 

jfoul

Member
Well damn. Now I def feel like I screwed up. Wonder what the New Egg return policy is for unopened items. haha (goes to new egg).

I think the return policy for unopened video cards is 15-30 days from invoice. No restocking fee, but you pay shipping cost. You might be able to get around the shipping fee by using the 30 day trial of ShopRunner. I usually try to buy everything from Amazon because of the return policy, but they don't always have the best prices.

Gigabyte R9 290 OC - NEW $359.99 Amazon & Newegg

MSI Radeon R9 290 Gaming OC USED - $324.46 Amazon Warehouse Deals
  • 3 year transferable warranty
 

Sickbean

Member
Its a good build, i rather go with the Asus ITX boards, generally they just seem better made and look better too.

Rest is fine, only niggle is the PSU, not a fan of the CX series they are mediocre, but will still do the job. You can get better PSUs for same price, but since you own it no need to worry really.

I went for the Gigabyte board cause that was the one listed in the SFF build sheet - I've nothing against ASUS (I currently own a P8P67 Pro), so I'll check them out.

I agree with you about the PSU, I'll be upgrading to a full modular design ASAP
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I think the return policy for unopened video cards is 15-30 days from invoice. No restocking fee, but you pay shipping cost. You might be able to get around the shipping fee by using the 30 day trial of ShopRunner. I usually try to buy everything from Amazon because of the return policy, but they don't always have the best prices.

MSI Radeon R9 290 Gaming OC $324.46 Amazon Warehouse Deals
  • 3 year transferable warranty
*2 year labor just a heads up. I think it's like $30 if it goes poof Year 3.
 

Mascot

Member
Depends how far. The logitech nano receivers might struggle through a wall. You could use a USB extender cable and run that alongside your HDMI cable through your wall, to get it as close as possible to where you'll use it

360 pad and wireless receiver should be ok - that has pretty decent range

Many thanks. Co-routing the USB through the wall along with the HDMI sounds like a great idea. No idea why it didn't occur to me at the time..! There are even dedicated wall plates to enable this.


Cheers.
 

Schryver

Member
Alright. Plugging the beast in momentarily. Hopefully all goes well.

Slightly confused by step 7 in the OP.
Once you are in, go ahead an put the flash drive in with the drivers. Install those, and reboot.

Also, I should be installing all programs on the SSD and leaving other stuff to the HDD right? Anything extra I should do after installing updates and drivers besides the two SSD tips?
 

Dries

Member
So I got my cleaning schedule down, anything I'm missing? More tips are always welcome.

- clean case fans
- clean case dust filters
- compressed air through heatsink
- general dust removal
 

Knch

Member
Slightly confused by step 7 in the OP.

= Install the drivers you put on the flash drive in steps 2 & 3.

Also, I should be installing all programs on the SSD and leaving other stuff to the HDD right? Anything extra I should do after installing updates and drivers besides the two SSD tips?

Anything you want to start/load fast, you put on the fastest drive.

Also, you might want to disable your HDD from entering sleep-mode, nothing as annoying as waiting for it to wake up because something is trying to access your HDD while you're gaming (or if you're impatient, like myself :p.)
 

DjRalford

Member
Ok I'm baffled

Bought a 4790k yesterday and a asus gene vii mob for my armor a30

I'm upgrading from a 2700k which with a scythe low profile cooler use to run at 65c after an hour of prime95

I've installed everything and put the oem cooler on, idle was 50c and even opening a web page caused temps to hit 70c

I thought ok, so I put my scythe cooler on there, cleaned both faces with compound cleaner and polished, reapplied AS and seated the cooler nice and firmly. Idle temps 34c but under load it gets to 75c and crashes the PC within about 5 seconds of starting prime95.

Other than continuing to reseat the cooler I'm at a loss, the ASUS OC is disabled on the bios, and I have set the vcore manually to 1.175v, as auto would set 1.35v, which got me 10 seconds of Prime95 before crashing, is this definitely a cooling issue or could I have a duff chip, the temps go all over the place in the 10seconds it runs spiking between 50 and 75 before locking up the PC.
 

riflen

Member
Ok I'm baffled

Bought a 4790k yesterday and a asus gene vii mob for my armor a30

I'm upgrading from a 2700k which with a scythe low profile cooler use to run at 65c after an hour of prime95

I've installed everything and put the oem cooler on, idle was 50c and even opening a web page caused temps to hit 70c

I thought ok, so I put my scythe cooler on there, cleaned both faces with compound cleaner and polished, reapplied AS and seated the cooler nice and firmly. Idle temps 34c but under load it gets to 75c and crashes the PC within about 5 seconds of starting prime95.

Other than continuing to reseat the cooler I'm at a loss, the ASUS OC is disabled on the bios, and I have set the vcore manually to 1.175v, as auto would set 1.35v, which got me 10 seconds of Prime95 before crashing, is this definitely a cooling issue or could I have a duff chip, the temps go all over the place in the 10seconds it runs spiking between 50 and 75 before locking up the PC.

Don't set the vcore manually. 1.35v seems normal for this CPU based on reports; the boost is 4.4Ghz. What test are you running in Prime because not all tests are useful. Try small fft.
I can't speak to the suitability of your cooler as there seem to be many different Scythe low profile coolers.
 

riflen

Member
Hey guys, just seen this deal on Hotukdeals:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DZ6R9GE/

EVGA 500B 500W 80+ BRONZE PC Power Supply for £36.99.

I was wondering if there would be much difference between this and the be BN181 Pure Power L8 530W CM Modular 80+ Bronze QUIET Power Supply?

Obviously its around £10.00 cheaper.

I would always recommend a single 12v rail over a multi-rail configuration. The EVGA uses a single 12v rail that's rated to output 40A, whereas the L8-530W uses two rails rated at 20 and 28A.
Yes, combined the L8-530W's output is greater, but it can be tricky to make sure the components pulling the most power are connected to different rails. Ideally, CPU and GPU will need to be connected to different rails if you're using the BE QUIET!.

It probably wont affect you if you have components that draw modest amounts of power, but if you want to replace your GPU with something beefy, for example, you might run into a problem. What GPU will you be powering?
 
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