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[PhantomZone]

Upgraded my videocard from a 560Ti to a 780Ti, when i did the benchmark test for Arkham City i had a Spaceballs "ludicrous speed" moment :-D. People may mock getting such a high powered card when i have no intention of using 2-3-4-5-6-7-9-10 screens (happy with a single screen setup) but i wanted the most possible frames i could get.

I only need to upgrade my ram and then i'll have done everything i wanted to do when i originally built this computer 2 years ago (i took some shortcuts to make it cheaper and had wanted to gradually build it to my liking................. but neglected to start doing it until a few weeks ago).

 

[Arc07]

I thought my build was going to go smooth, and it did until I launched a game. The computer restarts after a game is "in engine" for no more than 5 seconds. I can go to the menus in Watch_Dogs and Assetto Corsa (even the car preview in AC) and be fine. Early indicators, and most Google results, are telling me the power supply is shot. I hope not because I'm incredibly impatient and I've never dealt with a RMA from NCIX US. I'm currently at work writing this but so far I've removed all of ASUS' tweaking software and reset the BIOS to default settings. Removed one of the graphics cards to see if it could be a power draw issue. Re-installed the graphics drivers (both stable and beta) and re-installed GeForce Experience.

i7-4970K, Maximus VII Hero (latest BIOS version), GTX780 Ti in SLI and an AX1200i.

I don't know what the temperature of the PSU is supposed to hit before the fans kick in but I've never reached it yet. I also ran Assetto Corsa without any GPU drivers and it ran for an extended period, albeit at 0.5 fps. Any suggestions would be awesome.

 

[SHADES]

Hey guys, just seen this deal on Hotukdeals:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DZ6R9GE/

EVGA 500B 500W 80+ BRONZE PC Power Supply for £36.99.

I was wondering if there would be much difference between this and the be BN181 Pure Power L8 530W CM Modular 80+ Bronze QUIET Power Supply?

Obviously its around £10.00 cheaper.

That's how much I paid for mine a month ago, seems the going rate to be honest, going by pcpartpicker.

 

[riflen]

I thought my build was going to go smooth, and it did until I launched a game. The computer restarts after a game is "in engine" for no more than 5 seconds. I can go to the menus in Watch_Dogs and Assetto Corsa (even the car preview in AC) and be fine. Early indicators, and most Google results, are telling me the power supply is shot. I hope not because I'm incredibly impatient and I've never dealt with a RMA from NCIX US. I'm currently at work writing this but so far I've removed all of ASUS' tweaking software and reset the BIOS to default settings. Removed one of the graphics cards to see if it could be a power draw issue. Re-installed the graphics drivers (both stable and beta) and re-installed GeForce Experience.

i7-4970K, Maximus VII Hero (latest BIOS version), GTX780 Ti in SLI and an AX1200i.

I don't know what the temperature of the PSU is supposed to hit before the fans kick in but I've never reached it yet. I also ran Assetto Corsa without any GPU drivers and it ran for an extended period, albeit at 0.5 fps. Any suggestions would be awesome.

Windows could be faulting and restarting the system. In some cases, a monitor will lose sync and not restore sync until after the fault message has been and gone and the system is rebooting.
I suggest you set Windows to not restart after a fault. If you can get a look at the message, it can give you an idea about what component is the problem.

Go to System Properties > Advanced System Settings > Startup and Recovery > Settings > System Failure. Uncheck Automatically Restart.

If Windows produces one, it's also possible to grab a program that can read the MEMORY.DMP file. Again, this can lead you in the right direction to identifying the problem.

 

[Momentary]

Will the new 1440p 144hz ASUS Swift GSYNC monitor is getting a crap ton of praise. People are selling them at a premium right now, but I hope that by the time Maxwell hits the market things will cool off a bit. Newegg will probably sell it at MSRP.

 

[Thraktor]

Are there any particular disadvantages to using a WD Red hard-drive as a standard hard-drive (i.e. not part of a RAID array)? The WD Red 2TB basically fits my requirements in terms of being big, quiet and reliable, and I'm not that bothered about it only being 5400RPM, but I'm worried that being configured for RAID use will screw things up if I try to use it as a normal drive. Any advice?

 

[Arc07]

Go to System Properties > Advanced System Settings > Startup and Recovery > Settings > System Failure. Uncheck Automatically Restart.

If Windows produces one, it's also possible to grab a program that can read the MEMORY.DMP file. Again, this can lead you in the right direction to identifying the problem.

I tried this but unfortunately on the TV I'm using as a monitor, the TV gets no signal after a crash so I can't read anything (if there is anything to read). Could you recommend a program to read the .dmp files for Windows8?

 

[kennah]

Are there any particular disadvantages to using a WD Red hard-drive as a standard hard-drive (i.e. not part of a RAID array)? The WD Red 2TB basically fits my requirements in terms of being big, quiet and reliable, and I'm not that bothered about it only being 5400RPM, but I'm worried that being configured for RAID use will screw things up if I try to use it as a normal drive. Any advice?

It's pointless. The main difference between that drive and the green is it has extra features for use in NAS systems. You're just wasting your money if you get it instead of a green or blue.

 

[Sky Chief]

Will the new 1440p 144hz ASUS Swift GSYNC monitor is getting a crap ton of praise. People are selling them at a premium right now, but I hope that by the time Maxwell hits the market things will cool off a bit. Newegg will probably sell it at MSRP.

Where are people selling them?

 

[DjRalford]

Don't set the vcore manually. 1.35v seems normal for this CPU based on reports; the boost is 4.4Ghz. What test are you running in Prime because not all tests are useful. Try small fft.
I can't speak to the suitability of your cooler as there seem to be many different Scythe low profile coolers.

I'm a pillock, updating the bios so the board supports the CPU would be a good idea.

Thankyou for your response, I have the vcore at 1.150 at the moment which is not crashing in prime, but I'm now seeing temps of 88c so I might redo the cooler again.

 

[Water]

Where are people selling them?

They aren't. No actual reviews yet either.

 

[Dries]

So I got my cleaning schedule down, anything I'm missing? More tips are always welcome.

- clean case fans
- clean case dust filters
- compressed air through heatsink
- general dust removal

Quoting myself for new page and because I'll be cleaning tomorrow ^

 

[Sky Chief]

They aren't. No actual reviews yet either.

LOL that's what I thought

 

[Genio88]

Quoting myself for new page and because I'll be cleaning tomorrow ^

That's fine, what else would you do? Just pay attention on remove all the dust you can

 

[pmj]

My computer won't boot. 4790k, Gigabyte Z97X.

What happens is this: the PSU and GPU fans start up. The CPU fan starts making a staticy sound. It isn't overly loud, but it sounds bad. It sometimes begins to spin up only to stop right away, followed by cycling of power, restarting the process. Other times CPU fan doesn't start at all, and it powers off and on. A few times it has managed to start spinning normally, and seems fine. At least that particular part.

The first time it seemed fine, the monitor got a signal and I got into the BIOS. I was changing the boot order when the computer restarted on me. Since then I've not been able to reach the BIOS, or even for the monitor to get a signal. I've switched between outputs on the graphics card, then finally removed it and tried onboard VGA and DVI without success. I get no picture even when the CPU fan is behaving and the computer seems on.

I did remove the heatsink and put it down again without cleaning and reapplying thermal paste, like the OP says not to do, because I wanted to make sure it wasn't loose and the failure to start is a security measure. I use the stock cooler and whatever gunk was already on it. I have nothing else for today.

 

[Thraktor]

It's pointless. The main difference between that drive and the green is it has extra features for use in NAS systems. You're just wasting your money if you get it instead of a green or blue.

Fair enough, I'll just go with the green 2TB then. Thanks.

 

[hwateber]

Don't know if this has been posted yet, but pretty sweet deal on a Corsair Air 540.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?sdtid=7037816&EdpNo=9107820

 

[Dries]

That's fine, what else would you do? Just pay attention on remove all the dust you can

I don't know that's why I'm asking you guys lol.

 

[Confusion Illusion]

Depends on the quality of the PSU tbh, I recently upgraded from a 7 year old Enermax PSU and now my brother is using it in his machine, tbh if it wasn't for the fact that it wouldn't power my new GPU I would of continued using it.

I see. I've just been wondering. I have a corsair 650TX PSU—I purchased it in November of 2009 so it's almost 5 years old now.

 

[Diablos]

I have a Seasonic PSU, bought it about 6-7 years ago (used it for only 4-5 years worth however) and it is still going strong. It was expensive when I bought it, but it paid off.

So I have a GTX 660 Twin Frozr, as previously mentioned, and the temps are getting too high. I took off the heatsink and put some Arctic Silver 5 on. Temps still hit 90C using furmark (and likely any game after enough time). Only then does the fan speed really start to kick in, which is stupid. No idea why this is happening. I recleaned and applied the paste for a second time, even.

Kind of pissed, because I would think my GPU is heading towards failure, and I just voided the warranty by taking it apart. I figured new thermal paste would have done the trick. Meh. If I knew this wasn't going to work I would have just let it overheat and see if the warranty would still cover anything.

I just don't understand what's happening, here. The core is the core. I can't see how it would just run hotter than it did a few months ago. I am thinking the heatsink fan is going bad? I am truly stumped here.

 

[Demon Lizardman]

Finally Finished it! Will do wire management later but just installed windows 8.1 and it works!

 

[Stubo]

Yay, congrats!

Have you got your hyper 212 fan pulling air through? If it's pushing, maybe put it on the other side!

 

[riflen]

I have a Seasonic PSU, bought it about 6-7 years ago (used it for only 4-5 years worth however) and it is still going strong. It was expensive when I bought it, but it paid off.

So I have a GTX 660 Twin Frozr, as previously mentioned, and the temps are getting too high. I took off the heatsink and put some Arctic Silver 5 on. Temps still hit 90C using furmark (and likely any game after enough time). Only then does the fan speed really start to kick in, which is stupid. No idea why this is happening. I recleaned and applied the paste for a second time, even.

Kind of pissed, because I would think my GPU is heading towards failure, and I just voided the warranty by taking it apart. I figured new thermal paste would have done the trick. Meh. If I knew this wasn't going to work I would have just let it overheat and see if the warranty would still cover anything.

I just don't understand what's happening, here. The core is the core. I can't see how it would just run hotter than it did a few months ago. I am thinking the heatsink fan is going bad? I am truly stumped here.

This is a shame. Is it possible you just have a daft fan profile? What software are you using to control the GPU?

 

[LilJoka]

This is a shame. Is it possible you just have a daft fan profile? What software are you using to control the GPU?

Summer ambient temps?
Use MSI Afterburner to have a custom fan profile.

 

[Diablos]

I'm using a custom fan profile and it keeps it <50C at idle, but what happens is during gaming, I have it set to start running more around 71C... so it CONSTANTLY spins up, then down, then up, down, etc. Has to be hard on the fans.

Starting to wonder if the Twin Frozr fans went bad somehow? I.e. the bearings had too much dust on them for too long and it killed their efficiency...

Given that the GPU is not dead, even if I sent it to MSI before taking it apart, I wonder if they would have even honored their warranty.

I doubt summer ambient temps have anything to do with it; I have central AC.

 

[riflen]

I'm using a custom fan profile and it keeps it <50C at idle, but what happens is during gaming, I have it set to start running more around 71C... so it CONSTANTLY spins up, then down, then up, down, etc. Has to be hard on the fans.

Starting to wonder if the Twin Frozr fans went bad somehow? I.e. the bearings had too much dust on them for too long and it killed their efficiency...

Given that the GPU is not dead, even if I sent it to MSI before taking it apart, I wonder if they would have even honored their warranty.

I doubt summer ambient temps have anything to do with it; I have central AC.

Are the rest of your system fans operating as normal? The GPU cooler can only use the air supplied to it.

 

[LilJoka]

I'm using a custom fan profile and it keeps it <50C at idle, but what happens is during gaming, I have it set to start running more around 71C... so it CONSTANTLY spins up, then down, then up, down, etc. Has to be hard on the fans.

Starting to wonder if the Twin Frozr fans went bad somehow? I.e. the bearings had too much dust on them for too long and it killed their efficiency...

Given that the GPU is not dead, even if I sent it to MSI before taking it apart, I wonder if they would have even honored their warranty.

I doubt summer ambient temps have anything to do with it; I have central AC.

Why dont u make a smooth curve with MSI afterburner? Then you wont hear it spin up and down, and it wont be hard on the fan either.

 

[Diablos]

Are the rest of your system fans operating as normal? The GPU cooler can only use the air supplied to it.

Cooling has been crappy in my case since it is horrible for airflow and I am buying a new one. But GPU temps have never been this bad, even when I got it last summer.

I am going to try a new case then think about getting another GPU if improved airflow doesn't work. But I have my TX3 pulling air upward from the bottom of the case and out through the PSU, as well as an rear fan (used as an intake to cool my VRM's). It isn't a good cooling setup but it's the best I can do for this case and keeping my board from frying is my #1 priority. Will improve the airflow with more fans and a new case. But I am pretty confident that something is up with the GPU/GPU HSF. It's at 42C now that it has been idling for a while.

 

[LilJoka]

Cooling has been crappy in my case since it is horrible for airflow and I am buying a new one. But GPU temps have never been this bad, even when I got it last summer.

I am going to try a new case then think about getting another GPU if improved airflow doesn't work. But I have my TX3 pulling air upward from the bottom of the case and out through the PSU, as well as an rear fan (used as an intake to cool my VRM's). It isn't a good cooling setup but it's the best I can do for this case and keeping my board from frying is my #1 priority. Will improve the airflow with more fans and a new case. But I am pretty confident that something is up with the GPU/GPU HSF

What is your current case and fan configuration? What motherboard, what CPU? what CPU cooler? Make a drawing in MS Paint to help me.
A lot of the time its not the number of fans, or the strength of fans, its just having the right fans in the right place even if they are a mere 600rpm.
Ive gone through a lot of cases and fans and yet to have flow issues. Unless you have poor cable management and a really badly designed case, its likly not the issue, considering your case and fans also havent changed since you installed the GPU.

 

[Demon Lizardman]

What the hell? My sound drivers keep crashing. Don't know why?

 

[SLV]

I need a suggestion for some RAM, i need some with red led's and that they are red or black or both in color themselves. Would fit the Hero VII very nicely. 16 GB, video work and gaming, price is not an issue, availability is though. So as many as possible i guess. Avexir is not available here much, Crucial ballistix are somewhat confusing. I would really use any suggestions. Thanks guys !

 

[LilJoka]

I need a suggestion for some RAM, i need some with red led's and that they are red or black or both in color themselves. Would fit the Hero VII very nicely. 16 GB, video work and gaming, price is not an issue, availability is though. So as many as possible i guess. Avexir is not available here much, Crucial ballistix are somewhat confusing. I would really use any suggestions. Thanks guys !

AMD series RAM, G.Skill Ripjaws, Kingston Fury to name a few have options in red.

 

[Skunkers]

Ok I'm baffled

Bought a 4790k yesterday and a asus gene vii mob for my armor a30

I'm upgrading from a 2700k which with a scythe low profile cooler use to run at 65c after an hour of prime95

I've installed everything and put the oem cooler on, idle was 50c and even opening a web page caused temps to hit 70c

I thought ok, so I put my scythe cooler on there, cleaned both faces with compound cleaner and polished, reapplied AS and seated the cooler nice and firmly. Idle temps 34c but under load it gets to 75c and crashes the PC within about 5 seconds of starting prime95.

Other than continuing to reseat the cooler I'm at a loss, the ASUS OC is disabled on the bios, and I have set the vcore manually to 1.175v, as auto would set 1.35v, which got me 10 seconds of Prime95 before crashing, is this definitely a cooling issue or could I have a duff chip, the temps go all over the place in the 10seconds it runs spiking between 50 and 75 before locking up the PC.

Dunno, but those temps do seem high. I just built my 4790K machine last night:

Thermaltake Commander G42 case
Asus Z97-PRO AC Wifi
Intel 4790K
Hyper 212 Evo

I'm using onboard video for the time being, so there is no hot graphics card in the case warming things up; but my idle temps are at around 15-20C, and while at full load encoding a ripped Blu Ray my CPU core temps are topping out at 50-52K. Prime95 full load goes to only 62-63C. I'm pretty happy with these temps.

 

[Demon Lizardman]

The problem was the sound driver, but it all works now! I am done!

 

[Schryver]

Finished assembling last night, got my PC to boot up and it seems to be working fine this morning. Only thing is BIOS recognizes the 2nd HDD but Windows doesn't. I was going to do the driver updates using DriverUpdate but apparently that needs an activation code. Is that DriverUpdate thing bs? What do I do?

 

[Sectorseven]

The problem was the sound driver, but it all works now! I am done!

Is that swing out arm thing for the mouse comfortable? It looks far away from the keyboard.

 

[Stubo]

The problem was the sound driver, but it all works now! I am done!

Yay, congrats!

Have you got your hyper 212 fan pulling air through? If it's pushing, maybe put it on the other side!

Did you check this? ^

 

[LilJoka]

Finished assembling last night, got my PC to boot up and it seems to be working fine this morning. Only thing is BIOS recognizes the 2nd HDD but Windows doesn't. I was going to do the driver updates using DriverUpdate but apparently that needs an activation code. Is that DriverUpdate thing bs? What do I do?

DriverUpdate is bloatware. Never use automated utilites they are all useless/scams even malware....

Go to the motherboard website for all drivers for your board. Use information from the Device Manager to work out which divers you need.
What you always need:
Chipset
Management Engine
LAN
USB 3

Sometimes need
Wireless Driver - Use the manufacturers site
SATA 3.0 Non-Intel - Use Motherboard site
Sound card - Use manufacturers site
Onboard Audio - Realtek site usually, but i always use Microsft Default drivers, Realtek is bloat.

If your Hard Disk isnt showing in WIndows its likely it just needs a drive letter assigned. In the start menu type partition, youll see something like Create and Modify partitions. Open that, you will see all your drives, right click the offending drive and click assign a drive letter.

 

[riflen]

Finished assembling last night, got my PC to boot up and it seems to be working fine this morning. Only thing is BIOS recognizes the 2nd HDD but Windows doesn't. I was going to do the driver updates using DriverUpdate but apparently that needs an activation code. Is that DriverUpdate thing bs? What do I do?

WTF is DriverUpdate?
To use your hard disk you need to create a partition and format it.

Find My Computer, right-click, Manage. The screen that follows should look something like this:

If you only see one disk under disk management, right-click on Disk Management and select refresh or rescan.
Once the disk is visible you can create a new simple volume on the disk and format it.

 

[Mully]

Current Specs: i5 2500K/ 16GB of DDR3 Ripjaws / ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 / EVGA GTX 560Ti 1GB / Corsair 750W / Antec 300 case / Hitachi 2TB Deskstar HDD
Budget: $800 USD
Main Use: Rate 4. Streaming, Word Processing, Gaming, possibly emulation.
Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080
When will you build?: By August
Will you be overclocking?: No

My PC is pretty okay. I put it together using this thread in the summer of 2011. Recently it's been blue-screening which I think is either because of bad RAM or HDD. I'd like to be able to have another monitor and get better visuals out of an SLI setup with a new card. If there's room in the budget after two new cards and another monitor I'd like to maybe switch out my RAM. Also my case is pretty small, so I'd probably have to get a new case, although I'm not sure how safe it would be removing the mobo and moving it to a new case.

 

[StalkerUKCG]

Just want to say a big thanks to kharma45 I built the rig he laid out for me last night and couldn't be happier with it.

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£235.99 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.95 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD5H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£135.57 @ Dabs)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£109.25 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB TWIN FROZR Video Card (£479.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (£79.32 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£98.99 @ Dabs)
Total: £1165.06
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-18 10:53 BST+0100)

 

[Schryver]

DriverUpdate is bloatware. Never use automated utilites they are all useless.

Go to the motherboard website for all drivers for your board. Use information from the Device Manager to work out which divers you need.
What you always need:
Chipset
Management Engine
LAN
USB 3

Sometimes need
Wireless Driver - Use the manufacturers site
SATA 3.0 Non-Intel - Use Motherboard site
Sound card - Use manufacturers site
Onboard Audio - Realtek site usually, but i always use Microsft Default drivers, Realtek is bloat.

If your Hard Disk isnt showing in WIndows its likely it just needs a drive letter assigned. In the start menu type partition, youll see something like Create and Modify partitions. Open that, you will see all your drives, right click the offending drive and click assign a drive letter.

Hmm well the only options I'm seeing are Convert to Dynamic Disk / Convert to MBR Disk and New Simple Volume

 

[LilJoka]

Hmm well the only options I'm seeing are Convert to Dynamic Disk / Convert to MBR Disk and New Simple Volume

Thats a fresh drive then, create a new simple volume will take you to the formatting wizard, that will let you format to NTFS and itll assign a drive letter automatically so you can see it in My Computer.

 

[NoRéN]

Current Specs: i5 2500K/ 16GB of DDR3 Ripjaws / ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 / EVGA GTX 560Ti 1GB / Corsair 750W / Antec 300 case / Hitachi 2TB Deskstar HDD
Budget: $800 USD
Main Use: Rate 4. Streaming, Word Processing, Gaming, possibly emulation.
Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080
When will you build?: By August
Will you be overclocking?: No

My PC is pretty okay. I put it together using this thread in the summer of 2011. Recently it's been blue-screening which I think is either because of bad RAM or HDD. I'd like to be able to have another monitor and get better visuals out of an SLI setup with a new card. If there's room in the budget after two new cards and another monitor I'd like to maybe switch out my RAM. Also my case is pretty small, so I'd probably have to get a new case, although I'm not sure how safe it would be removing the mobo and moving it to a new case.

Run memtest to see if RAM is the culprit of the blue screening. Link in first post under UTILITIES.

Perfectly safe to move stuff from one case to another as long as you are as careful as when you first built it. I recently switched my sister's pc from a HAF 912 to a Fractal R4 with no issues.

 

[LilJoka]

Current Specs: i5 2500K/ 16GB of DDR3 Ripjaws / ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 / EVGA GTX 560Ti 1GB / Corsair 750W / Antec 300 case / Hitachi 2TB Deskstar HDD
Budget: $800 USD
Main Use: Rate 4. Streaming, Word Processing, Gaming, possibly emulation.
Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080
When will you build?: By August
Will you be overclocking?: No

My PC is pretty okay. I put it together using this thread in the summer of 2011. Recently it's been blue-screening which I think is either because of bad RAM or HDD. I'd like to be able to have another monitor and get better visuals out of an SLI setup with a new card. If there's room in the budget after two new cards and another monitor I'd like to maybe switch out my RAM. Also my case is pretty small, so I'd probably have to get a new case, although I'm not sure how safe it would be removing the mobo and moving it to a new case.

Download BSOD VIewer, double click the 2 most recent BSOD Dumps and post a screenshot of the information.

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html

 

[Mully]

Run memtest to see if RAM is the culprit of the blue screening. Link in first post under UTILITIES.

Perfectly safe to move stuff from one case to another as long as you are as careful as when you first built it. I recently switched my sister's pc from a HAF 912 to a Fractal R4 with no issues.

Thanks. What card would you recommend for SLI that would be within my budget? 770?

 

[Mully]

Download BSOD VIewer, double click the 2 most recent BSOD Dumps and post a screenshot of the information.

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html

 

[Demon Lizardman]

Did you check this? ^

I did, I had somebody else help me with building this, that was one of the first things he did before we completed the PC.

 

[Schryver]

Thats a fresh drive then, create a new simple volume will take you to the formatting wizard, that will let you format to NTFS and itll assign a drive letter automatically so you can see it in My Computer.

Ok got it. Thanks!
Now MSI Afterburner seems to freeze my PC whenever I launch it. It worked last night the first time. Weird. I read that I should uninstall it and GPU drivers and then reinstall both so guess I'll try that

 

[LilJoka]

Ok got it. Thanks!
Now MSI Afterburner seems to freeze my PC whenever I launch it. It worked last night the first time. Weird. I read that I should uninstall it and GPU drivers and then reinstall both so guess I'll try that

Try a reboot before doing that. Messing with GPU drivers shouldnt be neccessary at all.