Probably none. Frys has had some in the past, but not that were playing games at 120 FPS on them.Obviously you wouldn't be able to tell on a 60hz panel? I meant which stores would actually have 120+ monitors set up.
Are you in the Pac NW by chance?
Probably none. Frys has had some in the past, but not that were playing games at 120 FPS on them.Obviously you wouldn't be able to tell on a 60hz panel? I meant which stores would actually have 120+ monitors set up.
Probably none. Frys has had some in the past, but not that were playing games at 120 FPS on them.
Are you in the Pac NW by chance?
What kind of games do you prefer? Ubisoft/AAA cinematic experiences, competitive games, indies?
Any tips you'd recommend for someone who hasn't flipped PC parts before? A friend is looking to sell his card he got last year ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202025 ) and upgrade now, but neither of us have done any online selling and don't know anyone local to sell to.I've found the best time to sell GPUs is right before the new generation of cards launch. After that you'll still most likely be able to sell it, however naturally your pricing will be up against newer material and the value will be lower. I usually try and get 75%-80% of what I paid for the card. Worked out pretty well so far.
I'm holding off for 2015(skylake, 800 series) to do a full system rebuild, targeting a large screen 4K capable machine.
I am currently running a GTX580 super OC and 2600K...my question is there a $100-$150 graphics card that's likely to be an upgrade over the 580? All my research says no...curious to hear another opinion.
If you're going to wait to have a gaming PC, why not wait to build the rest of it?After a long time of buying parts, I'm finally building my first PC, here's how it looks:
CPU: *Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: *Asus Z87M-Plus Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($126.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: *Kingston HyperX Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($91.76 @ NCIX US)
Storage: *Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($134.99 @ Amazon)
Case: *Corsair 350D MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: *Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor ($155.43 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: *Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($14.99 @ NCIX US)
Keyboard: Corsair Raptor K30 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($49.99 @ Micro Center)
Mouse: *Cooler Master Recon Wired Optical Mouse ($33.09 @ Amazon)
Other: Corsair MM200 extended mat ($30.00)
Am I good to go?
How is the keyboard? Which HDD to get? 2 TB WD green or WD Blue 1TB?
Will the Hyper 212 EVO be compatible with my case and motherboard?
I'll be buying a videocard once the 20nm Maxwell series release, I'll be dealing with the iGPU HD 4600, the purpose of this build is the Oculus rift so I don't mind waiting a year.
Oh and I need a PCI-E WiFi card, which to get for gaming? Wired is not an option.
Bummer.Unfortunately I am closer to the deep south![]()
The mobile link is broken on desktop, but sell on GAF B/S/T, Hardforum, or Overclock.net. Also, always buy ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte, or EVGA. Those are the only ones where the warranty transfers to new owners, so it's a lot easier to part with them.Any tips you'd recommend for someone who hasn't flipped PC parts before? A friend is looking to sell his card he got last year ( http://m.newegg.com/Product?itemNumber=N82E16814202025 ) and upgrade now, but neither of us have done any online selling and don't know anyone local to sell to.
We figure, if we can flip his GPU annually for an upgrade it would come out to around the same price as waiting 4-5 years before getting a new one and being left with an extra GPU paperweight.
The reason why I asked is that the unlocked pentium basically runs Source/UE3/CoD/MMOs as well as the i7 because you can overclock the crap out of it.Not going competitive (you mean MOBAs right?). Variety of mostly single-player experiences. Right now I'm just getting into PC gaming on a serious level, have some older stuff on my Steam (UT3, Serious Sam 3, Titan Quest, Torchlight, Just Cause 2, X3 series).
When looking at my console stuff right now: Mass Effect Trilogy, Final Fantasy, Skyrim, Dragon's Dogma. Going to get Kingdoms of Amalur, Watch_Dogs (free with the GPU as far as I know) and the Witcher series when the build comes in.
I just want a generally better experience than console gaming, mostly single-player stuff, not a lot of indies. I want things to run at 1200p, 60 FPS without being limited by console hardware/software choices.
Not much to do here other than get a new videocard honestly. Overclock your 2500K. Get a Crucial MX100. Then pick out a new monitor.•Your Current Specs: i5 2500K/ 8Gb G.Skill Sniper/ AsRock Z68/ Gigabyte Radeon HD 7870 / Thermaltake Purepower 600W / Silverstone RV02B/ Crucial M4 64Gb (for OS) and a couple of regular 1 TB HDs for data
•Budget: $1000 US
•Main Use: Light Gaming - 5, Gaming - 5, Emulation (PS2/Wii) - 2, Video Editing - 1, Streaming games in HD - 3, 3D/Model work (and what program) - 1, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 4.
•Monitor Resolution: 1600X1200 currently, would like to move away from that by buying a new monitor
•Are you going to upgrade later? Possibly
•Are you buying a new monitor? Yes, but will be using my old one in the meantime
•List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Any of the most recent MMOs (Elder Scrolls Online, Wildstar, etc.), basically PC exclusive things
•Is 30FPS acceptable? Yes 60? Yes 120? Would be nice
•How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? Not very
•Looking to reuse any parts?: Case, PSU if I can get away with it, the Crucial M4 (might get another SSD for OS, but this one will stay in there for random crap) the data HDs (cause who cares)
•When will you build?: Anytime
Do you have a deadline? No
•Will you be overclocking?: Maybe
The reason why I asked is that the unlocked pentium basically runs Source/UE3/CoD/MMOs as well as the i7 because you can overclock the crap out of it.
The parts you have are pretty good choices. I really push for everyone to get an unlocked i5 at the least because it helps tons with maintaining a good frame rate in general, but it's not a must.
Thanks for the advice. I edited the link in my previous post, his current card is a SAPPHIRE 100354OC-2L Radeon HD 7870 2GB.The mobile link is broken on desktop, but sell on GAF B/S/T, Hardforum, or Overclock.net. Also, always buy ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte, or EVGA. Those are the only ones where the warranty transfers to new owners, so it's a lot easier to part with them.
Take a look at used prices on those at Overclock.net and Hardforum. That'll give you a good baseline.Thanks for the advice. I edited the link in my previous post, his current card is a SAPPHIRE 100354OC-2L Radeon HD 7870 2GB.
What would be a good way to gauge a price when selling?
Damn, missed the chance to offload one of my 570s with waterblock.
This'll be a challenge, Smokey. It's quite hard to find waterblocks for lower end cards, let alone ones several years old. All I can find is the NZXT Kraken G10, which you'll have to combine with Kraken X40 closed cooler. The G10 lists compatibility with GTX 560 Ti.
EDIT: Derp, EK might have a product. What is the make / model of 560 TI?
@Smokey
You might have a nearly impossible time finding a FC block for a reference 560 Ti. You'll need to go for a universal block. EK recently released a pretty damn good product called the "Thermosphere"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40828
Just get some passive heatsinks for the memory and power delivery bits, which you can find anywhere.
*edit 2*
If you want to match the CPU block, there's also the XSPC Raystorm for GPUs:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._Block_includes_Xbox_One.html?tl=g59c661s2185
Nope.
Should be better but I'm not positive it will fit, if not get a Corsair SP120 Quiet or Performance, either way it's not that loudSo yesterday I had a few posts about the fan on my CPU cooler, and my friend offered me an old one of his to see how much of a difference it makes.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=116241590&postcount=418
After putting new cooling paste on and adding that new fan, temperatures are a whole lot better and I am able to overclock better. The fan is a bit loud though. It is the one that came with the Corsair H60, a CF12S25M12AP, but that doesn't say much.
So I got a Arctic Cooling F12 recommended in this thread. Someone knows whether it is going to make a difference in sound, and maybe also performance? Or should I look at more expensive fans?
You should be able to control the speed of that fan through BIOS. Just set the max speed to something like 1200-1500 RPM.So yesterday I had a few posts about the fan on my CPU cooler, and my friend offered me an old one of his to see how much of a difference it makes.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=116241590&postcount=418
After putting new cooling paste on and adding that new fan, temperatures are a whole lot better and I am able to overclock better. The fan is a bit loud though. It is the one that came with the Corsair H60, a CF12S25M12AP, but that doesn't say much.
So I got a Arctic Cooling F12 recommended in this thread. Someone knows whether it is going to make a difference in sound, and maybe also performance? Or should I look at more expensive fans?
Should be better but I'm not positive it will fit, if not get a Corsair SP120 Quiet or Performance, either way it's not that loud
You should be able to control the speed of that fan through BIOS. Just set the max speed to something like 1200-1500 RPM.
What's your actual budget? I know you state you paid £400 last time and you anticipate going over, but is there a limit to what you want to spend on a new system? We could end up recommending something way more than what you'd be able to afford![]()
No suggestions?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant£600 limit.
I take it you've installed AMD Catalyst as well?I need some help, GAF. First of all, I thought we had a general Tech Support GAF thread, but I can't seem to find it by searching. I figure this thread is the next best place to ask without opening my own thread.
So I just built a new HTPC, with the idea of also having it play some Steam games. Here's the build:
Motherboard: ASRock Mini ITX Motherboard FM2A88X-ITX+
Processor: AMD Quad-Core A8-Series APU A8-6600K with Radeon HD 8570D
RAM: Corsair 16GB XMS3 (2x 8GB) DDR3 SDRAM 1600MHz
And I think that's probably what's the most relevant. I could post the case and such, but it's not really pertinent to the issue.
So this is my first build. I've bought pre-built machines and replaced parts in the past, but I've never built an actual machine before. I went with integrated graphics because it really only needs to play video and the occasional game, so I did not put in a dedicated graphics card. (I may down the road.)
So here's the problem (finally): I have no sound. I have the computer hooked to my TV via HDMI cable, but Windows 7 says there is no audio device installed. I've double and triple checked the drivers for the chipset, processor, graphics, everything I can think of, but it says there's no audio device.
Did I miss a connection on the motherboard? Everything is powered, and I can't help but think there would be an issue getting video out through the HDMI if there was an issue with the integrated GPU.
Any ideas?
I take it you've installed AMD Catalyst as well?
I need some help, GAF. First of all, I thought we had a general Tech Support GAF thread, but I can't seem to find it by searching. I figure this thread is the next best place to ask without opening my own thread.
So I just built a new HTPC, with the idea of also having it play some Steam games. Here's the build:
Motherboard: ASRock Mini ITX Motherboard FM2A88X-ITX+
Processor: AMD Quad-Core A8-Series APU A8-6600K with Radeon HD 8570D
RAM: Corsair 16GB XMS3 (2x 8GB) DDR3 SDRAM 1600MHz
And I think that's probably what's the most relevant. I could post the case and such, but it's not really pertinent to the issue.
So this is my first build. I've bought pre-built machines and replaced parts in the past, but I've never built an actual machine before. I went with integrated graphics because it really only needs to play video and the occasional game, so I did not put in a dedicated graphics card. (I may down the road.)
So here's the problem (finally): I have no sound. I have the computer hooked to my TV via HDMI cable, but Windows 7 says there is no audio device installed. I've double and triple checked the drivers for the chipset, processor, graphics, everything I can think of, but it says there's no audio device.
Did I miss a connection on the motherboard? Everything is powered, and I can't help but think there would be an issue getting video out through the HDMI if there was an issue with the integrated GPU.
Any ideas?
I'd check the BIOS and make sure sound is enabled. I'm not familiar with the motherboard but that's the first place I'd look.
You are awesome. That was exactly the problem. Why would that be disabled by default? It makes no sense to me.
Thanks!
If you're going to wait to have a gaming PC, why not wait to build the rest of it?
The NF-F12 I assume is for the heatsink? Looks good otherwise.
*edit*
Oh, also have a look at Powerline Adapters instead of WiFi.
That obvious, eh?![]()
Got it off Dabs.ie and my PSU is is a Corsair 650W (can't remember the exact model right now)
Legit bro
Why play on PC if you're not PLAYING TO THE MAX
OK guys, I could really use some guidance here.
I like the idea of building my own PC, but I've never done it before, my attention to detail isn't fantastic with patience-demanding tasks, and I'm intimidated by the many, many things that can go wrong during the build and after. I'm OK with buying a pre-built PC or using a site where you pick your stuff and they build it for you.
That said, I'm looking for a gaming PC to use when my Oculus arrives next month. I'm also intrigued at the idea of using it to pilot a drone with the Oculus, though I do have a 4-year-old laptop that might be able to handle that, so what you recommend doesn't have to be a laptop. I'm in awe of the gorgeous screens in the PC screenshot thread, but I have no idea if playing at such amazing-looking settings is even possible, or if folks just pause, apply magic, and take a screenshot. I'm sure I won't end up playing many games because I don't play tons of games any more, but I like the idea of being able to if I want to.
Your Current Specs: Old-ass laptop. Looking for a new system. Most bang for my buck. Probably a desktop, unless there's a powerful and affordable laptop out there.
Budget: $1,500, United States
Main Use: 5 Gaming, 5 Emulation, 4Video Editing, 2 Streaming games in HD, 1 3D/Model work, 3 General Usage (media playback).
Monitor Resolution: I'll be using a 70-inch, 3D 1080p Sharp TV (it can display 4k content, but isn't 4k). I'd like to have something that can possible handle 4k when I make the plunge in a year or two. If it handle it, maybe something that can be easily upgraded to do so.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I'd love to have something that can run games all purty like in the PC screenshots thread. Those Skyrim mods look amazing and I'm guessing people will do some sweet stuff with GTA V. 30fps is fine for me. I don't play FPS much.
Looking to reuse any parts?: I'm happy with my keyboard, mouse, and speakers.
When will you build?: Whenever you tell me to. If I really should wait until whenever because there are awesome new cpu's or graphics cards coming out in the fall, then I will wait.
Will you be overclocking?: I'm scared of overclocking because I don't understand it and it makes me sad when things break. But if you can convince me I should, then I will.
Thanks in advance for the help. I know I sound like a giant n00b/pussy with this post, but that's basically what I am when it comes to gaming computers -- I've always been a console guy.
I figured it might be tough with a old card. I was just trying to go as cheap as I could since I'm going to be using it or practice.
Ill have to find out what kind of card it is
So I see a lot of talk about the MX100 SSD but I'm curious as to what its benefits are exactly compared to the Samsung 840 EVO. Is there any significant functional difference between them? The 120GB range drives are only $5 apart in price and I'm just wondering what I should go with.
So I see a lot of talk about the MX100 SSD but I'm curious as to what its benefits are exactly compared to the Samsung 840 EVO. Is there any significant functional difference between them? The 120GB range drives are only $5 apart in price and I'm just wondering what I should go with.
There's definitely a divisive line between people who enjoy super high res monitors that are probably IPS/VA or some other format. Then there's the folks that really enjoy the high refresh rate monitors. The difference seems to come down to either playing lots of competitive games and action games versus RPGs and enjoying super high still image quality to take screenshots of and share on GAF.
.Sorry Durante, I can't help it.
So, is there any reason I should increase the voltage on my CPU if my OC doesnt need it? I basically went into my uefi/bios, set my ratio to 42 (4.2ghz) rebooted, and its been stable throughout my stress tests. That way I have the benefit of it going up to my OC speed when needed and the CPU downclocking and reducing elect usage when not needed. Thoughts?
Thanks!
There's horror stories of the giant tower coolers cracking PCB, but it might be one of those Internet Tall Stories that gets talked about but never happened.Stupid question time, is there ever a scenario where a HSF can be too heavy for a motherboard?
I figured it might be tough with a old card. I was just trying to go as cheap as I could since I'm going to be using it or practice.
Ill have to find out what kind of card it is
We're a bad influence.I have two universal blocks if you want to pay for shipping
No, keep the voltage as low as possible without crashing.
Don't worry about it. We were all noobs once. It's all actually pretty easy, including overclocking. But you don't have to worry about that right away, just buy parts that keep that door open for a bit down the road, a Z97 board and a "K" series processor, and a decent CPU cooler.
With a $1500 budget, you should be able to look to one of the builds in the OP and go from there, no problem. There are also videos there that cover the actual act of building broken down step by step.
The reason why you see a lot of those posts in here is because people don't post for help when everything is working fineThanks, sir. I don't really know how fast the computer gaming world moves so I didn't know if the builds in the OP were out of date or not. I still feel like there's too much that I can screw up, or stuff that might drive me nuts. I see all the folks in here with weird compatibility issues other issues that require lots of time and effort to troubleshoot. I know myself, and I will get frustrated when things don't work and I worry about the endless cycle of "tweak this, but this breaks, so tweak this, but..." that can happen if you don't know what your'e doing.
I do a set constant voltage as it gives me less issues and requires less time to setup. I'm not really interested in keeping my processors for 10+ years, so slightly reducing the lifespan isn't really a concern.Ah ok great! How do people keep their OC going usually? They just keep their voltage constant on an OC? My ASUS board has an adaptive setting that I havent touched but it seems interesting. When you OC you just set a voltage to stay locked that high then set the ratio?
You should really look at the 250GB versions. If the prices are almost the same, from reviews I have read, I would go with a Samsung EVO since it offers better performance.
The MX100 has power loss protection, which I'd consider a nice thing to have. Whichever brand you go with, I would really try to grab a 250GB or larger model; they are significantly faster than the smaller SSDs instead of just having more capacity.
I could name about 35 benefits. They're all $1.Thanks guys, guess I'll be going with a 250GB then (EVO, unless someone chimes in with some major benefit to the MX100).
I love you, will try this in a bit.I believe you have to choose advanced in Windows installer when it lists your disks and partitions. Then select and delete any partitions present on the MX100. You should then be able to create a new partition to install to.
I think this is my GPU max stable (Air, ref) in Valley. 290 power draw and noise on reference is absolute insanity by the way.
370W load stock to 470W load OC.
![]()
I do a set constant voltage as it gives me less issues and requires less time to setup. I'm not really interested in keeping my processors for 10+ years, so slightly reducing the lifespan isn't really a concern.