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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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cyborg009

Banned
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($64.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($48.88 @ Newegg)
Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card ($92.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Neos White ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Acer G226HQLBbd 60Hz 21.5" Monitor ($90.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $505.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-13 17:07 EDT-0400
Thanks I'll going to go ahead and order some of the parts now. But I wanted to ask one last question. my friend says that putting the OS on a ssd harddrive and my other data on a regular will increase my boot time greatly.

Should I go for this option or would it be pointless? since I spend a bit more if the benefit is worth it.
 

RGM79

Member
So the reason for not going with a 290 is because my friend said that if I want to at a later date purchase another graphics card on the cheap (an R9 270X or something) and cross fire and reach a performance a little below the 290.

I was also trying to avoid Nividia CPU's because I like that the AMD has built in software that tracks CPU temperature.

EDIT: Also we were trying to avoid Micro ATX's for the motherboard/case. I'm very wary about overheating the computer, so I want as much surface area/volume as possible.

Crossfire and SLI is generally not recommended around here as not all games work with multiple graphics cards and not all will scale well in terms of performance. I actually had twin Gigabyte R9 270X cards for a bit less than a year and while it did work very well with the games that supported crossfire, I was disappointed that some games simply don't use more than one GPU. Of course, that is my own experience and not necessarily how it'll be for you. Aside from the Witcher 3, you should do a bit of research and see how well crossfire is supported by the games you intend to play.

That said, 500 watts isn't enough for R9 280 crossfire, an 700~800 watt or greater power supply is recommended. In the future you would need to factor in the cost of a new higher quality power supply. Also, you can't crossfire that R9 280 you had in your list with an R9 270X either. The general rule of thumb for running multiple GPUs is that you want to have the exact same model of card.

It's definitely true that a crossfire setup can result in much better performance for the money over a single stronger card, but it also comes with its own issues like higher wattage requirements, potential graphics glitches (flickering textures are common issues for games that don't support multiple GPUs well but can be fixed with new drivers), and extra heat (extra card generates heat, overheating will depend on your case's airflow and fan setup). For overall stability and "ease of use" we tend to recommend single graphics cards whenever possible, and crossfire and SLI only for setups where money isn't an issue and/or the person wants high quality and framerate at high resolution (4K, etc) where even the strongest single graphics cards like the Titan X won't be enough.

It is possible to get a cheap ATX motherboard, it will cost a little bit more than mATX. I only recommend mATX for your full ATX build because it cost the least money and you have a low budget. For example, this ATX size ASRock B85 Anniversary motherboard costs $60. That would be one of the cheapest ones I could recommend.

However, you seem to be mistaken about PC cooling. The processor and graphics cards are the largest contributors to PC heat, the motherboard itself will not overheat unless you are doing extreme overclocking which you stated you would not be doing at all. The size of the motherboard has nothing to do with heat radiation and the board itself does not act as a radiator/conductor for heat. The one part of a motherboard that does heat up would be the motherboard MOSFETs, which usually don't need extra cooling unless the user is overclocking or running a very high end processor. Take a look at these thermal images by Tom's Hardware, you can see for yourself that the ATX motherboard's extra PCI-E slots are the coolest part of the PC even during hotbox testing, so the extra length of the ATX motherboard doesn't matter when it comes to temperatures, the CPU and graphics card does.

The CPU cooler, case airflow design, and what fans are installed will make the difference when it comes to heat and cooling. I'd recommend a CPU cooler if you want lower CPU temperatures. The stock one is alright, but only barely gets the job done if under heavy CPU stress (video encoding, computation, or other similar tasks). The stock cooler is alright since you won't be overclocking, it might just get somewhat loud as the small fan ramps up speed under load.

If you are worried about heat, the i5 4590 is a nice processor and should not get too hot. It is rated for a 84 watt TDP. Thermal Design Power figures can be thought of as how much maximum heat the device will produce at normal operation). The FX-6300 is rated for a 95 watt TDP. As for the graphics card, Nvidia's latest cards offer much more efficiency and less heat than AMD's current offerings, but since you want to avoid them, let's just leave it at that.

Edit: revised the post a few times for clarity and info links.

It's an ARRIS : Touchstone Data Gateway DG1670. I do get spotty signal though since my room's in the basement and the router is behind the couch above me in the living room. A fancier router (and for only $13 more) seems great - I definitely want to use N if possible. Thanks for the help!

Here's my final build (individual parts arriving either tomorrow or Monday at my office):

Oh, you can use wifi N with both adaptors, just throwing out a cheaper recommendation in case you prefer to save costs.

I don't think I remember you saying you were going to order everything from Amazon and Newegg, I could have tailored the build for best cost from those two retailers. Oh well.

Thanks I'll going to go ahead and order some of the parts now. But I wanted to ask one last question. my friend says that putting the OS on a ssd harddrive and my other data on a regular will increase my boot time greatly.

Should I go for this option or would it be pointless? since I spend a bit more if the benefit is worth it.

The SSD will improve loading times greatly for anything stored on it. It's very nice to have, but I usually leave it out of cheap builds. It's up to you to decide if it's worth it because SSDs cost quite a lot more when compared to hard drives. While you can get a 1TB HDD for $50, the same amount of money only gets you a 120/128GB SSD. If you don't need that much storage space, then you could opt for an SSD instead of a hard drive if you prefer one. If you want both, thenyou're going to have to spend over your budget. Given the size of Windows and that you may want to keep some applications and games on the SSD for faster loading, 120GB is the smallest SSD we'd recommend for that. You could consider a 64GB SSD, but those aren't very popular anymore and mainly exist as budget options for those that really can't afford a larger one.

I should mention that while SSDs improve loading times, they don't improve game performance. Hard drives are a bottleneck when it comes to file transfers and loading times, but the CPU and graphics card are what matters for game performance like framerate and graphical quality.
 

mylasthope

Neo Member
Looking at completed builds on overclock and pcpartpicker. How come I rarely see people sleeve their front panel cables? It's always just the pci-e, cpu, and mobo power cables that are sleeved. Is it because these three cables are the easiest to obtain? I did see that bitfenix makes pretty much every cable possible--audio, usb, etc.
 
Looking to upgrade parts of my PC.


Your Current Specs:
-Intel i5-750
-4 x 2GB G.SKILL Ripjaws PC3-12800 DDR3-1600 RAM
-Gigabyte P55A-UD3 ATX LGA1156 MOBO
-ASUS GeForce GTX 670 OC 980MHZ 2GB GPU
-OCZ Z-SERIES 650W 80+ Silver Certified 24PIN ATX 12V Afc Power Supply W/ 120MM Fan
-OCZ Vertex 3 120GB 2.5IN SATA3 6Gbps SandForce SF-2281 Solid State Disk Flash Drive SSD
-Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB 7200RPM 32MB Dual Proc 3.5IN SATA Hard Drive
-Western Digital WD20EARS Caviar Green 2TB SATA2 3Gbps 64MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive
-ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 Channel PCI Sound Card 24BIT Dolby Digital DTS 105DB SNR W/ Headphone AMP
-Antec Three Hundred Mini Tower Gaming Case 300 ATX 3X5.25 6X3.5INT No PS Front USB & Audio


Budget: ~$5-700 (semi-negotiable), Canada

Main Use: Gaming PC, want good performance for the money.

Monitor Resolution: Will be playing on a 1080p monitor, no plans for upgrading. I would much prefer 60FPS in all games, if feasible. PhysX is moderately important (again, would be nice.) Though I'm not upgrading GPU just yet.

Looking to reuse any parts?: Plan on keeping GPU, HDDs and SSD, monitors and maaaybe RAM (if possible).

When will you build?: Likely in the next couple of months, but will jump on a deal if it's there.

Will you be overclocking?: Doubtful. I usually find the performance increase minimal over just paying for better parts. Maybe sliiiiightly if it doesn't increase the heat too much with the stock cooler.


More info: I'm pretty much just upgrading with an eye to the future. My case is falling apart, and my CPU just isn't getting it done anymore with the current crop of games. While my GPU isn't top-of-the-line still, I think it's okay for a little while longer yet. The RAM will also probably need an upgrade. I'm also a big Intel/Nvidia fan, as I've had a much smoother experience with them than I have with AMD in the past.

I'm currently thinking an Intel Core i5-4590 CPU for around $240. I'm open to ideas for cases, MOBOs and RAM (if need be.)

For a case, I want something easy to work in, but I don't think I'll need a full tower. Every time I get one I assume I'll use that much space but never do. So probably a mid-tower would be best.

Some cases I'm considering are:
http://www.ncix.com/detail/fractal-design-define-r5-titanium-55-102218.htm
http://www.ncix.com/detail/antec-nine-hundred-mid-tower-81-21123.htm
http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-carbide-series-air-540-dc-85696.htm
http://www.ncix.com/detail/nzxt-h440-atx-mid-tower-5b-94093.htm

All have received a lot of praise online. I'm currently leaning towards the H440 -- sleek, quiet and lots of nice features -- and maybe the Carbide -- lots of room to work in and fantastic air flow.
I'm a bit iffy on the Antec 900, as my current case isn't faring great (both front USB ports are busted). I know that's probably not the common experience, but I want to go with what I know, in all likelihood.

For a MOBO, I don't think I'll need more than one PCI-e x16 slot. I've gotten 2 in the past, assuming I'll swap in one when it's cheaper. But I always end up disappointed by the prices to performance increase and just get a whole-new single GPU instead. I would like SATA-3 capability though, and a few USB 3.0 slots would also be great. Powered, even better.
 

RGM79

Member
Looking to upgrade parts of my PC.


Your Current Specs:
-Intel i5-750
-4 x 2GB G.SKILL Ripjaws PC3-12800 DDR3-1600 RAM
-Gigabyte P55A-UD3 ATX LGA1156 MOBO
-ASUS GeForce GTX 670 OC 980MHZ 2GB GPU
-OCZ Z-SERIES 650W 80+ Silver Certified 24PIN ATX 12V Afc Power Supply W/ 120MM Fan
-OCZ Vertex 3 120GB 2.5IN SATA3 6Gbps SandForce SF-2281 Solid State Disk Flash Drive SSD
-Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB 7200RPM 32MB Dual Proc 3.5IN SATA Hard Drive
-Western Digital WD20EARS Caviar Green 2TB SATA2 3Gbps 64MB Cache 3.5IN Hard Drive
-ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 Channel PCI Sound Card 24BIT Dolby Digital DTS 105DB SNR W/ Headphone AMP
-Antec Three Hundred Mini Tower Gaming Case 300 ATX 3X5.25 6X3.5INT No PS Front USB & Audio


Budget: ~$5-700 (semi-negotiable), Canada

Main Use: Gaming PC, want good performance for the money.

Monitor Resolution: Will be playing on a 1080p monitor, no plans for upgrading. I would much prefer 60FPS in all games, if feasible. PhysX is moderately important (again, would be nice.) Though I'm not upgrading GPU just yet.

Looking to reuse any parts?: Plan on keeping GPU, HDDs and SSD, monitors and maaaybe RAM (if possible).

When will you build?: Likely in the next couple of months, but will jump on a deal if it's there.

Will you be overclocking?: Doubtful. I usually find the performance increase minimal over just paying for better parts. Maybe sliiiiightly if it doesn't increase the heat too much with the stock cooler.

More info: I'm pretty much just upgrading with an eye to the future. My case is falling apart, and my CPU just isn't getting it done anymore with the current crop of games. While my GPU isn't top-of-the-line still, I think it's okay for a little while longer yet. The RAM will also probably need an upgrade. I'm also a big Intel/Nvidia fan, as I've had a much smoother experience with them than I have with AMD in the past.

I'm currently thinking an Intel Core i5-4590 CPU for around $240. I'm open to ideas for cases, MOBOs and RAM (if need be.)

For a case, I want something easy to work in, but I don't think I'll need a full tower. Every time I get one I assume I'll use that much space but never do. So probably a mid-tower would be best.

For a MOBO, I don't think I'll need more than one PCI-e x16 slot. I've gotten 2 in the past, assuming I'll swap in one when it's cheaper. But I always end up disappointed by the prices to performance increase and just get a whole-new single GPU instead. I would like SATA-3 capability though, and a few USB 3.0 slots would also be great. Powered, even better.

How far away would "the next couple of months" be? Intel's new Skylake processors are slated to come out in Q3 of this year. If you can wait it out, I think it's worth it if you want a little better "future-proofing". Skylake will be incompatible with existing motherboards and will arrive alongside the new socket 1151 Z170/H170 motherboards it is meant to be paired with. Things to look forward to include DDR4 RAM, USB type C, and USB 3.1 support. I suppose for the time being, you could get a new graphics card and case. AMD's new R9 3XX graphics cards are close to launch, no more than a month and a half away. Even if you prefer not to go with AMD, it is still worth waiting for to see how Nvidia reacts to the launch. They may introduce the GTX 980 Ti and more importantly, maybe drop prices on their existing cards.

As for performance improvements through overclocking, it really depends on what you're doing with the PC and how far it is overclocked. If you already get adequate performance in games at stock speeds, overclocking may not change much. Most games see more of an improvement with a stronger graphics card than stronger CPU performance. If you were doing CPU-heavy tasks like video encoding or some kind of computation, then you would see a measurable difference by overclocking.

That said, overclocking with the stock cooler is never a good idea. You wouldn't get very far with just the stock cooler, so that may be why you don't seem to have noticed decent gains when overclocking. It's always better to use an aftermarket cooler if you are worried about heat. Maybe not for your current PC, but consider getting one for your next build.

I guess what I'm saying is that you should wait it out. For your next processor, motherboard, RAM, and graphics card at the very least. A new case would be up to you. Cases don't really change so it's relatively safe to buy one now in anticipation of future use, but all the same, you never know if new cases will come out or if you may change your mind about what case you want by the time you get new parts. Going from your experience, it sounds like you could go with the mATX form factor.

Edit: noticed that you added a list of potential cases. I would like to recommend the Fractal Define S, which is similar to the R5 but has a revised interior.

Hexus.net's review of the Define S
PCPer.com's review of the Define S
 
How far away would "the next couple of months" be? Intel's new Skylake processors are slated to come out in Q3 of this year. If you can wait it out, I think it's worth it if you want a little better "future-proofing". Skylake will be incompatible with existing motherboards and will arrive alongside the new socket 1151 Z170/H170 motherboards it is meant to be paired with. Things to look forward to include DDR4 RAM, USB type C, and USB 3.1 support. I suppose for the time being, you could get a new graphics card and case. AMD's new R9 3XX graphics cards are close to launch, no more than a month and a half away. Even if you prefer not to go with AMD, it is still worth waiting for to see how Nvidia reacts to the launch. They may introduce the GTX 980 Ti and more importantly, maybe drop prices on their existing cards.

As for performance improvements through overclocking, it really depends on what you're doing with the PC and how far it is overclocked. If you already get adequate performance in games at stock speeds, overclocking may not change much. Most games see more of an improvement with a stronger graphics card than stronger CPU performance. If you were doing CPU-heavy tasks like video encoding or some kind of computation, then you would see a measurable difference by overclocking.

That said, overclocking with the stock cooler is never a good idea. You wouldn't get very far with just the stock cooler, so that may be why you don't seem to have noticed decent gains when overclocking. It's always better to use an aftermarket cooler if you are worried about heat. Maybe not for your current PC, but consider getting one for your next build.

I guess what I'm saying is that you should wait it out. For your next processor, motherboard, RAM, and graphics card at the very least. A new case would be up to you. Cases don't really change so it's relatively safe to buy one now in anticipation of future use, but all the same, you never know if new cases will come out or if you may change your mind about what case you want by the time you get new parts. Going from your experience, it sounds like you could go with the mATX form factor.

Edit: noticed that you added a list of potential cases. I would like to recommend the Fractal Define S, which is similar to the R5 but has a revised interior.

Hexus.net's review of the Define S
PCPer.com's review of the Define S


Thanks for the input. Note that I've edited my post a bit, specifically with what cases I'm considering.

I suppose I'll wait a bit. CPU sockets last for a couple of years, right? Because if this is something that changes every year, I might just bite now. I know in the past I've planned on upgrading my CPU, but by the time I do a new socket is out and the old CPUs are just more expensive, not cheaper. =/

As for overclocking, I'm doing it with my CPU and GPU with stock coolers, and have been for a few years. I don't go very far, obviously, but I've made sure to run the proper tests to ensure that it isn't getting too hot and the voltage is high enough to be stable. The i5-750 is a pretty overclock-friendly processor, and my GPU is an OC-branded one, so that's likely why I can get away with it . :p
 
I'm looking at upgrading from a Gigabyte 7950 to possibly a GTX970 but I've got a few thoughts..

I've been looking in here and hearing a lot of 'wait for the new cards', but I'm only able to find information about a single card that is rumoured to be somewhere in between the 980 and the Titan, which would still fall outside my price range. I have also been looking at the 980 but £200 is a lot to pay for the performance difference even if it might last 'longer'. Waiting for a price drop on a 980 also seems odd as I might end up waiting past the period where you get Batman and the Witcher free and only saving £50 anyway.

Long story short: is it worth going with the 970 and then upgrading again in 2 years or so?
 

Durante

Member
The 970 is NV's best value card currently, and that's very unlikely to change soon.
(Also, yes, buying a mid-end card every 2 years is a much better way to go if you are on a budget than spending twice as much every 4 years)
 

RGM79

Member
I'm looking at upgrading from a Gigabyte 7950 to possibly a GTX970 but I've got a few thoughts..

I've been looking in here and hearing a lot of 'wait for the new cards', but I'm only able to find information about a single card that is rumoured to be somewhere in between the 980 and the Titan, which would still fall outside my price range. I have also been looking at the 980 but £200 is a lot to pay for the performance difference even if it might last 'longer'. Waiting for a price drop on a 980 also seems odd as I might end up waiting past the period where you get Batman and the Witcher free and only saving £50 anyway.

Long story short: is it worth going with the 970 and then upgrading again in 2 years or so?

The current crop of deals that bundle games with graphics cards are almost certainly designed to try and get people to purchase existing cards without actually dropping prices on them, in anticipation of the new graphics cards expected to launch soon. I highly doubt the offer for the free games will last in time to be stacked with any potential price cuts, they wouldn't want to lose that much money.

If you're interested in Arkham Knight and the Witcher 3, then go for the bundle deal. Whether or not the GTX 970 is worth the cost is up to you, that's more subjective than anything else, according to how much money you want to spend and can afford to spend again in two years. It's also easier to sell the GTX 970 after two years than it is to sell a GTX 980 after 4 years. If you're looking at it from a "price-to-performance" point of view, the GTX 980 is not worth it when the GTX 970 exists.
 

UberLevi

Member
Hey guys, I'm getting my new computer in this week. It has a GTX 960 and an i5-4460.

Should that sustain me for a decent period of time?
 
I'm looking at upgrading from a Gigabyte 7950 to possibly a GTX970 but I've got a few thoughts..

I've been looking in here and hearing a lot of 'wait for the new cards', but I'm only able to find information about a single card that is rumoured to be somewhere in between the 980 and the Titan, which would still fall outside my price range. I have also been looking at the 980 but £200 is a lot to pay for the performance difference even if it might last 'longer'. Waiting for a price drop on a 980 also seems odd as I might end up waiting past the period where you get Batman and the Witcher free and only saving £50 anyway.

Long story short: is it worth going with the 970 and then upgrading again in 2 years or so?

Yes, perfectly good choice.
 

UberLevi

Member
You'll be fine for a few years. How long exactly depends on what graphical settings and framerate you want.

I'm perfectly happy gaming at 1080p, and I'm not particularly concerned with fps as long as it's at least 30 and stable. I'm also fine with playing on Medium to High (not Max or Ultra) if that means I can get a solid framerate.
 

RGM79

Member
I'm perfectly happy gaming at 1080p, and I'm not particularly concerned with fps as long as it's at least 30 and stable. I'm also fine with playing on Medium to High (not Max or Ultra) if that means I can get a solid framerate.

I can't predict the future, but I think you'll be good for at least the next two years.
 

OmegaDL50

Member
This is very early obviously.

I plan to build a new PC by the end of 2016 / early 2017. I generally build a new PC every 5 years. I started this plan back in 2007. Basically instead of doing periodic upgrades I instead stick to a static and non-changing build for the entire of the life of the PC for 5 full years. Not unlike a console that does not change for example.

My PC in 2007 -
Core 2 Duo e8400 3.3Ghz Dual Core
4GB DDR2 Ram 800Mhz
Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT 512MB GDDR3 Graphics Card

My PC in 2012 (Current) -
i5 3570k 3.4 Ghz Quad Core
8GB DDR3 Ram 1866Mhz
AMD Radeon HD7950 3GB GDDR5 Graphics Card

And my planned build in 2017 -
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/84HZdC

I plan to use the equivalent CPU, GPU, and Ram for Intel, Nvidia Pascal, and DDR4.
This means an Intel Skylake i7, a GeForce 1080 GTX, and at least 16GB of DDR4.
My planned price point is exactly $1500 for a complete rebuilt.
I plan to simply reuse the case and DVD burner in my current build, everything else is a total replacement.
 
Have had a 3570K since late 2012 and have never overclocked it. I'm thinking of starting, but currently have only stock cooler on my CPU and one front case fan.

Please could you suggest if I should get any other fans for my case and what CPU cooker to get, along with how much I should overclock my CPU.

Thanks.
 
This is very early obviously.

I plan to build a new PC by the end of 2016 / early 2017. I generally build a new PC every 5 years. I started this plan back in 2007. Basically instead of doing periodic upgrades I instead stick to a static and non-changing build for the entire of the life of the PC for 5 full years. Not unlike a console that does not change for example.

My PC in 2007 -
Core 2 Duo e8400 3.3Ghz Dual Core
4GB DDR2 Ram 800Mhz
Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT 512MB GDDR3 Graphics Card

My PC in 2012 (Current) -
i5 3570k 3.4 Ghz Quad Core
8GB DDR3 Ram 1866Mhz
AMD Radeon HD7950 3GB GDDR5 Graphics Card

And my planned build in 2017 -
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/84HZdC

I plan to use the equivalent CPU, GPU, and Ram for Intel, Nvidia Pascal, and DDR4.
This means an Intel Skylake i7, a GeForce 1080 GTX, and at least 16GB of DDR4.
My planned price point is exactly $1500 for a complete rebuilt.
I plan to simply reuse the case and DVD burner in my current build, everything else is a total replacement.
High Bandwidth Memory will be standard by then as well. Optimistically, you can look forward to building something much more powerful that what is in this list in 2016/2017.
 

I'm an expert

Formerly worldrevolution. The only reason I am nice to anyone else is to avoid being banned.
Have had a 3570K since late 2012 and have never overclocked it. I'm thinking of starting, but currently have only stock cooler on my CPU and one front case fan.

Please could you suggest if I should get any other fans for my case and what CPU cooker to get, along with how much I should overclock my CPU.

Thanks.

Most will recommend the Hyper but it doesn't sound like you're doing anything heavy duty. You should also check the space and and make sure the 212 even fits in/doesnt block any slots. A good, smaller alternative is a Freezer Pro 7. Works very well and is just as cheap. If you have empty fan slots its just a matter of buying them. There's a cooling article in the op if you want to get fancy with positioning and speeds.
 
Most will recommend the Hyper but it doesn't sound like you're doing anything heavy duty. You should also check the space and and make sure the 212 even fits in/doesnt block any slots. A good, smaller alternative is a Freezer Pro 7. Works very well and is just as cheap. If you have empty fan slots its just a matter of buying them. There's a cooling article in the op if you want to get fancy with positioning and speeds.
I have a 970 but only run games on my PC. I think I may want to get a better case (current one very old and probably a bit small), any suggestions (have P8Z77-V LK). Thanks.
 
I need a quick case suggestion for 40-60€ max. I'm currently running a old Aerocool iCurve that I bought in 2007 I think and while it served me well I was cleaning out my PC again yesterday and figured it would finally be time for a new case. I could never figure out the cable-management properly with the iCurve, my 7970 scraps at the HDD cage and it's a pain to clean my CPU cooler with so little space :/ As a side-effect of all this the air-flow is pretty bad so I thought it would be time for a new case with summer coming.

I looked around and thought of the here recommended Cooler Master N400 or a Zalman Z9 Plus. The Zalman caught my eye because it comes with four fans included which seems nice for the price-range. Things to consider for me, I would like atleast 4-5 3.5" drive-bays as I currently run three HDDs and would like to have room for expansion in forms of a HDD and/or SDD in the future with how big games are getting and I only have half my Steam Library installed :p

Additionally there should be enough space for cable-management behind the mainboard-tray while still managing to close the side-panel, my PSU is a old 550w BeQuiet Dual-Rail and it has plenty and plenty of thick cables I would like to hide. Other than that enough space for future-proofing GPUs would be great, I don't think I will ever run SLI or Crossfire but I would like to have the option of atleast one three-fan GIGABYTE card in the future but at the very least no more 7970 scrapping against my HDD cage. Oh and my CPU cooler is a Coolermaster TX3 Hyper for reference.

Bonus if anyone can explain me for dummies how to pressurize my case so I don't always have a universe of dust inside, living right under the roof of a house has its negatives :(

Thanks for any suggestions and help in advance! :)
 

Engell

Member
I need a quick case suggestion for 40-60€ max. I'm currently running a old Aerocool iCurve that I bought in 2007 I think and while it served me well I was cleaning out my PC again yesterday and figured it would finally be time for a new case. I could never figure out the cable-management properly with the iCurve, my 7970 scraps at the HDD cage and it's a pain to clean my CPU cooler with so little space :/ As a side-effect of all this the air-flow is pretty bad so I thought it would be time for a new case with summer coming.

I looked around and thought of the here recommended Cooler Master N400 or a Zalman Z9 Plus. The Zalman caught my eye because it comes with four fans included which seems nice for the price-range. Things to consider for me, I would like atleast 4-5 3.5" drive-bays as I currently run three HDDs and would like to have room for expansion in forms of a HDD and/or SDD in the future with how big games are getting and I only have half my Steam Library installed :p

Additionally there should be enough space for cable-management behind the mainboard-tray while still managing to close the side-panel, my PSU is a old 550w BeQuiet Dual-Rail and it has plenty and plenty of thick cables I would like to hide. Other than that enough space for future-proofing GPUs would be great, I don't think I will ever run SLI or Crossfire but I would like to have the option of atleast one three-fan GIGABYTE card in the future but at the very least no more 7970 scrapping against my HDD cage. Oh and my CPU cooler is a Coolermaster TX3 Hyper for reference.

Bonus if anyone can explain me for dummies how to pressurize my case so I don't always have a universe of dust inside, living right under the roof of a house has its negatives :(

Thanks for any suggestions and help in advance! :)

What size is your motherboard, atx, E-atx, M-atx?
 
I need a quick case suggestion for 40-60€ max. I'm currently running a old Aerocool iCurve that I bought in 2007 I think and while it served me well I was cleaning out my PC again yesterday and figured it would finally be time for a new case. I could never figure out the cable-management properly with the iCurve, my 7970 scraps at the HDD cage and it's a pain to clean my CPU cooler with so little space :/ As a side-effect of all this the air-flow is pretty bad so I thought it would be time for a new case with summer coming.

I looked around and thought of the here recommended Cooler Master N400 or a Zalman Z9 Plus. The Zalman caught my eye because it comes with four fans included which seems nice for the price-range. Things to consider for me, I would like atleast 4-5 3.5" drive-bays as I currently run three HDDs and would like to have room for expansion in forms of a HDD and/or SDD in the future with how big games are getting and I only have half my Steam Library installed :p

Additionally there should be enough space for cable-management behind the mainboard-tray while still managing to close the side-panel, my PSU is a old 550w BeQuiet Dual-Rail and it has plenty and plenty of thick cables I would like to hide. Other than that enough space for future-proofing GPUs would be great, I don't think I will ever run SLI or Crossfire but I would like to have the option of atleast one three-fan GIGABYTE card in the future but at the very least no more 7970 scrapping against my HDD cage. Oh and my CPU cooler is a Coolermaster TX3 Hyper for reference.

Bonus if anyone can explain me for dummies how to pressurize my case so I don't always have a universe of dust inside, living right under the roof of a house has its negatives :(

Thanks for any suggestions and help in advance! :)
In order to have positive pressure inside the case, I would simply suggest you monitor the speed of your intake and exhaust ventilators with the help of some software à la SpeedFan (description and how to).
As far as the mid tower is concerned, check the Carbide 200R which should suit your needs as well as your budget.
 
What size is your motherboard, atx, E-atx, M-atx?

I knew I forgot to mention something, sorry. I have a ATX mainboard as far as I know. It's a ASRock Z77 Pro 3: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z77 Pro3/

In order to have positive pressure inside the case, I would simply suggest you monitor the speed of your intake and exhaust ventilators with the help of some software à la SpeedFan (description and how to).
As far as the mid tower is concerned, check the Carbide 200R which should suit your needs as well as your budget.

Alright I will look into both!

EDIT: I'll look into Speedfan as soon as I have a new case, looks good! The Carbide looks really nice aswell, seems I will have to decide between it and the N400. One question though, can somebody explain why the N400 has fan-slots on the right? o.o

https://www.alternate.de/p/o/t/Cooler_Master_N400__Geh_use@@tqxm9f_2.jpg
 

AndyD

aka andydumi
This is very early obviously.

I plan to build a new PC by the end of 2016 / early 2017. I generally build a new PC every 5 years. I started this plan back in 2007. Basically instead of doing periodic upgrades I instead stick to a static and non-changing build for the entire of the life of the PC for 5 full years. Not unlike a console that does not change for example.

My PC in 2007 -
Core 2 Duo e8400 3.3Ghz Dual Core
4GB DDR2 Ram 800Mhz
Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT 512MB GDDR3 Graphics Card

My PC in 2012 (Current) -
i5 3570k 3.4 Ghz Quad Core
8GB DDR3 Ram 1866Mhz
AMD Radeon HD7950 3GB GDDR5 Graphics Card

And my planned build in 2017 -
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/84HZdC

I plan to use the equivalent CPU, GPU, and Ram for Intel, Nvidia Pascal, and DDR4.
This means an Intel Skylake i7, a GeForce 1080 GTX, and at least 16GB of DDR4.
My planned price point is exactly $1500 for a complete rebuilt.
I plan to simply reuse the case and DVD burner in my current build, everything else is a total replacement.

You are on the same plan I am on. Except I just picked up 16GB of RAM to bump it up and demote the current 8gb to an office rig.

I have yet to overclock the CPU or GPU even though I have a 212 on the CP, a Z97 motherboard and several case fans all keeping the system cool and calm. Maybe it's time to think about it so I can play Witcher at a decent clip.
 

Shanlei91

Sonic handles my blue balls
It probably isn't the power supply. You'll have to perform some trial and error troubleshooting. Test each stick on its own in the working slots to see if you have bad slots, if the new RAM doesn't work then you can conclude that they're faulty.

Thanks, I tried the new sticks in the old slots and the old sticks in the new slots and that worked. Most likely that I didn't seat them in properly the first time around.

But now there's a new issue. After installing the new sticks I began to hear a large rattling noise, like a mini helicopter is inside my PC. (It's normally very quiet). After disconnecting fans and testing I found out it's my new Windforce 970x card. I looked up online and found videos of rattling 970x cards, claiming it to be a coil issue but none of them sounded like mine. Any idea why the card suddenly began to act up after over a week of owning it? I'm wondering if maybe I didn't close the case tight enough and the excess sound is leaking out somewhere.

Edit: Turns out the video card fan was causing vibrations through the system which were causing the sounds. A mix of moving some cables around and kicking the PC made the sound go away. My methods are archaic but they get the job done.
 

Vitor711

Member
Oh, you can use wifi N with both adaptors, just throwing out a cheaper recommendation in case you prefer to save costs.

I don't think I remember you saying you were going to order everything from Amazon and Newegg, I could have tailored the build for best cost from those two retailers. Oh well.

Eh, it's an extra $15 and I have enough WiFi issues that I'd rather spend a bit more and know that the adapter isn't adding to them.

So, Amazon and Newegg actually ended up being the cheapest places for most of those items (outside of a $5 increase for the CPU). It's just one or two (the case) where I decided I'd be happy with convenience over having to make a 1hr20min return trip to Brooklyn to pick something up in person.

I was expecting to pay around $1200/1300 anyway so it's within budget - especially if my 980m equipped 6 -month old laptop sells for as much as it should on ebay. I won't be out of pocket.

Appreciate the offer though! Probably should have waited and had you check things but I also wanted to ensure that all the parts arrived before Tuesday (Witcher release day). Impatience has a cost! Basically, I needed to abuse Amazon Prime (created new e-mail account to make use of the free trial) and get that free two-day shipping. Did the same for Newegg and their premium stuff.
 

Hattori

Banned
Hey PCGaf, what's the general consensus on the Corsair AXi PSU? I ask because I'm really interested in the monitoring software they have but I'm not really well versed on PSUs
 

AndyD

aka andydumi
Hmm, the last think I am missing for the new office PC is a motherboard.

I have a 3258, the stock cooler, an SSD for OS and regular drive for storage, 8GB of RAM, Corsair 450 modular power supply, a case and all the other bits.

Any suggestions for a solid motherboard? I don't need anything too fancy. Worth going near $100 for a Z series to overclock, on an office/youtube machine?

I have access to Microcenter if they have great deals. I can even return the 3258 and buy a bundle from them if they have something going on. I can never find them on their site.
 

Afro

Member
Can I improve my TN panel's colors by adjusting these sliders in Nvidia CP? I'm already using tomshardware calibration settings in the monitor menus, but I was just wondering if I should mess with these settings or leave them be.

I mostly curious about "Digital Vibrance" and if it might squeeze a little more color out of my TN or if it's simply just saturating the image.

Thanks.

4jsWklr.png
 

Gizuko

Member
Hey GAF!

I have some rather silly questions about water cooling:

My current rig is a 4790k (NH-D14) + a Radeon HD7950, I know the 7950 heats a lot, and is the main problem here, but the heat my rig is currently pumping out is beyond awful. On top of that, I live in a rather hot city, where temperatures above 30 ºC (during summer/end of spring) are not out of the ordinary.

Would a WC reduce the heat the rig is pumping out? The heat is still being dissipated, but maybe the liquid pumps it out in a more even way, so as not to make the room temperature as high as on air. I don't know, honestly.

Would it suffer from the hot ambient temps more than air cooling? I do want to be able to OC in summer.

Is there any closed loop worth the money out there? I'm terrified of building a custom one, and even if I want to try doing so eventually, I want to save some money in case things go south.

I think at this point getting a new card is the best course of action, but I don't know if I want to upgrade just yet, this card is 2 yeards old after all, and I wouldn't know how to resell it (eBay isn't the best place, since I'd have to open an account, and I doubt anyone buys a 7950 off of someone with 0 votes).
 

mkenyon

Banned
Hey GAF!

I have some rather silly questions about water cooling:

My current rig is a 4790k (NH-D14) + a Radeon HD7950, I know the 7950 heats a lot, and is the main problem here, but the heat my rig is currently pumping out is beyond awful. On top of that, I live in a rather hot city, where temperatures above 30 ºC (during summer/end of spring) are not out of the ordinary.

Would a WC reduce the heat the rig is pumping out? The heat is still being dissipated, but maybe the liquid pumps it out in a more even way, so as not to make the room temperature as high as on air. I don't know, honestly.

Would it suffer from the hot ambient temps more than air cooling? I do want to be able to OC in summer.

Is there any closed loop worth the money out there? I'm terrified of building a custom one, and even if I want to try doing so eventually, I want to save some money in case things go south.

I think at this point getting a new card is the best course of action, but I don't know if I want to upgrade just yet, this card is 2 yeards old after all, and I wouldn't know how to resell it (eBay isn't the best place, since I'd have to open an account, and I doubt anyone buys a 7950 off of someone with 0 votes).
So your system consumes lets say 400W of power at load when playing games. That 400W is what is being dumped into your room. It doesn't matter if it does it via watercooler or your current setup. That heat will still be exactly the same. The only thing that changes is that it gets away from the parts that are making it more efficiently.

And yes, watercooling the card will give you a huge drop in temps. I don't really like the AIO options, as they still rely on passive cooling for stuff that is still very important to keep cool like VRMs and Memory.
 

Gizuko

Member
So your system consumes lets say 400W of power at load when playing games. That 400W is what is being dumped into your room. It doesn't matter if it does it via watercooler or your current setup. That heat will still be exactly the same. The only thing that changes is that it gets away from the parts that are making it more efficiently.

And yes, watercooling the card will give you a huge drop in temps. I don't really like the AIO options, as they still rely on passive cooling for stuff that is still very important to keep cool like VRMs and Memory.

I see, I mixed temp and heat in a weird way. I'll downclock it a bit during the summer and will replace the GPU eventually.

Thank you for your quick response!
 
Does anyone have any suggestions for a (possibly cheap) "slim" keyboard? I have been using the my laptop has (here's a pic of the Acer Aspire to give you guys an idea) and I find it quite comfortable.
That or maybe I could try out a compact mechanical one, but I'm sure that will prove to be quite expensive.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Does anyone have any suggestions for a (possibly cheap) "slim" keyboard? I have been using the my laptop has (here's a pic of the Acer Aspire to give you guys an idea) and I find it quite comfortable.
That or maybe I could try out a compact mechanical one, but I'm sure that will prove to be quite expensive.
How much are you looking to spend? If you want that laptop feel, you're looking for something with "scissor switches". If you just want a compact keyboard, there's a lot of good mechanical options below $100.

This is $90 on Massdrop right now.
I see, I mixed temp and heat in a weird way. I'll downclock it a bit during the summer and will replace the GPU eventually.

Thank you for your quick response!
You could look into an aftermarket air cooler too, but those are generally going to have the same sort of issues as an AIO cooler on a GPU, namely requiring passive cooling of the VRMs and Memory. Otherwise, you could sell it on GAF B/S/T if you wanted to upgrade to something that puts out less heat, like a 970.
 
How much are you looking to spend? If you want that laptop feel, you're looking for something with "scissor switches". If you just want a compact keyboard, there's a lot of good mechanical options below $100.

This is $90 on Massdrop right now.
I'll probably look into buying a keyboard like that sooner or later; for now I think I'll go with something cheaper like the Kensington K72357IT (or Kensington K72357US for the US folks) which seems exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for your help! :D
 

ricki42

Member
Can I improve my TN panel's colors by adjusting these sliders in Nvidia CP? I'm already using tomshardware calibration settings in the monitor menus, but I was just wondering if I should mess with these settings or leave them be.

I mostly curious about "Digital Vibrance" and if it might squeeze a little more color out of my TN or if it's simply just saturating the image.

Thanks.

I haven't used the nvidia settings, but for me, using the icc profile for my monitor made the largest difference. You can check for example here if your monitor is listed and download the file.
 

Gizuko

Member
You could look into an aftermarket air cooler too, but those are generally going to have the same sort of issues as an AIO cooler on a GPU, namely requiring passive cooling of the VRMs and Memory. Otherwise, you could sell it on GAF B/S/T if you wanted to upgrade to something that puts out less heat, like a 970.

I have a Vapor-X, though, I thought the model had a good cooler. I'll see if I can find something better, though, at this point it's worth the trouble.

I'll give some thought to the B/S/T thread, but there's this random flicker while on desktop (I think only happens when OCed) that, while happens every once in a long while, prevents me from selling it to a GAFer in good conscience.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I have a Vapor-X, though, I thought the model had a good cooler. I'll see if I can find something better, though, at this point it's worth the trouble.

I'll give some thought to the B/S/T thread, but there's this random flicker while on desktop (I think only happens when OCed) that, while happens every once in a long while, prevents me from selling it to a GAFer in good conscience.
Yeah, the Vapor-X is a great cooler, not much to upgrade there, TBH.
 
Does anyone have a small form factor build with a GTX 970 for around $700-800? Are the ones in the first post updates or are they back from 2014? I need to get all my parts from Amazon too.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Does anyone have a small form factor build with a GTX 970 for around $700-800? Are the ones in the first post updates or are they back from 2014? I need to get all my parts from Amazon too.
Not much has changed since the stuff in the OP was made.

Specifically look at the third post. The only thing I might switch out is the motherboard for the EVGA Stinger, as it can be had for a good price and has excellent socket placement for ITX.

And you'll be hard pressed to get a 970 into a decent SFF build for $700-800. Unless you have some of the parts already, like PSU and SSD/main drive.
Century Compressed Gas Duster

This would be safe to clean the inside of my PC with, right?
Yeah, just secure your fans first.
 
Not much has changed since the stuff in the OP was made.

Specifically look at the third post. The only thing I might switch out is the motherboard for the EVGA Stinger, as it can be had for a good price and has excellent socket placement for ITX.

And you'll be hard pressed to get a 970 into a decent SFF build for $700-800. Unless you have some of the parts already, like PSU and SSD/main drive.

Yeah, just secure your fans first.

Awesome thanks. I'm trying to build one with a $1000 budget, but I need a monitor and Windows too.
 

spinz

Member
Hmm having trouble figuring out how to mount this fan. Iv got 140 mm noctua, trying to mount it to the bottom of an r5 define. I see 4 long holes, not sure how it fits in them.. Iv got screws and rubber pieces it came wiyh.. but manual and Google aren't making sense on how to put it in, hmm. Any thoughts?
EDIT: now that I think about it... do I even have to mount it? It's on the bottom and snug between the power supply and cages.
 

yami4ct

Member
Got all my PC stuff. Replacing the fans and man the screws for the Phantom 410 front fan suck. Two of the 4 instantly stripped beyond recognition. Going to have to try extreme measure later tonight. I'm sure I'll get them out eventually, but damn it sucks.

Everything else is so great, though. Not sure how I feel about the LED strip on the motherboard, but that would be a minor, minor complaint at most. I might grow to like it, too. Just not sure how I feel.
 
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