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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Hello, the latest set of nvidia drivers are causing alot of problems to alot of users, including myself, rollback to the GTAV driver and wait for a new one, i suspect they will release one with Batman since it´s a gameworks game.

This last driver has made it more frequent.
 
Been having an issue lately when some games and today it's done it on every game I've played and it's been doing it at least once a round in CSGO.

My screen just freezes and I have to alt+ctrl+delete and get to the task manager and when I go back in it's fine till it happens again. I'm not sure if it's the heat in my room, my old video card or what. This is the message I get popping up.

r7pFGyp.png


and MY Specs

Windows 81. 64 bit
i5-3570k(not OC)
GeForce GTX 650 ti boost 2 GB
16 GB ram.

I've looked online but I'm not finding a solution at all. What can be the cause of this?

I had this a while ago and thought I had a bad 290. Turned out the OC settings on my motherboard weren't set to default (I don't OC). So when i reset everything it went. Fuck knows how that happened coz I never fiddle around with it.
 

MisterNoisy

Member
Hello, the latest set of nvidia drivers are causing alot of problems to alot of users, including myself, rollback to the GTAV driver and wait for a new one, i suspect they will release one with Batman since it´s a gameworks game.

Gonna echo this - every driver since 350.12 has given me fits on my 970 regardless of OC on my card or CPU. Just stick to the GTAV driver until they get their shit together.
 
I have a question about SSDs. I reinstall Windows (or do a factory reset on an Android tablet) and I install everything that I need to install. A few days later, the PC (or Android tablet) is left idle for several hours and when I check the disk space, I notice that I have gained around 10 GB of free space. Is this normal? Is it TRIM or garbage collection at work?
 
I have a question about SSDs. I reinstall Windows (or do a factory reset on an Android tablet) and I install everything that I need to install. A few days later, the PC (or Android tablet) is left idle for several hours and when I check the disk space, I notice that I have gained around 10 GB of free space. Is this normal? Is it TRIM or garbage collection at work?

I don't think TRIM should affect the displayed filesystem usage at all. That's weird. Might be Windows cleaning up after itself (deleting downloaded update installers would be my best guess).
 

Aurongel

Member
Looks like an old and cheap (PSU is mounted on top) possibly prebuilt case with punchout slots. Maybe it was so poorly made they only cut every other slot.

Sorry if the reply was unhelpful. What case is that, any brand name or model?
I'm assembling it for a friend, the brand is Azza but it's a model I can't find.

It's really frustrating.
 

Vertti

Member
I'm going to States in 20th of July-3th of August.

Because computer parts are much cheaper there than in Finland I'm probably going to buy a CPU and GPU from there. I'm thinking about i5-4690k and GTX 980 Ti. I'm going for EVGA because their warranty system. Which model would you recommend?

I'm probably going to buy all the other parts from Finland. My budget for other parts is 500-600€. Here's the two biggest retailers:
www.verkkokauppa.com
www.jimms.fi

I'm still playing in 1080p and probably sometimes on tv screen. I will overclock.

What kind of build would you recommend?

I've been reading about water cooling. I think about using something like Corsair Hydro Series. Are the cheaper models H55, H60 etc. worth it?

And I don't have any idea how american posting works. So if I order it to my home adress when in States do I have to collect it somewhere or do I get it to my mail box?

Thank you in advance. First time I'm building a computer and I'm quite excited. Finally be able to emulate Gamecube, Wii and PS2 games in high res + play all the newer games in max graphics.
 
So I was playing a game and then the screen got covered in green squares, froze up, then I got a BSOD, claiming a fatal driver crash. Does that mean I OC'd too far? :p
 
One is 1600 cas 9, the other is 1866 cas 10. They'll perform about the same. Get the colour you like better

I see thanks, I'll go for the fury, red for now, and maybe buy a black set later, they look pretty badass together on a red/black mobo.

The white version of the Fury 1866 is £75.03 @ eBuyer right now, so that could be worth a look if you don't mind white.

Oh nice, I'll have to think about it, but /w shipping it wouldn't be that much of a price difference, + amazon returns is so hassle free I don't mind paying a bit of a premium.
 

Handal

Member
27 inch is considered the sweet spot for 1440p

Hmm.. even if I'm seated at less than 2ft from screen ?

I'm reading some people saying that the text is small and all, but since I'm seated at around 1.8ft from screen, I'm not sure if this will bother me :/
 

Ettie

Member
Does Acer have exclusivity on the zero edge tech found in the S277HK monitor? I love the design but don't really need 4k. I'd love to see the thin bezels proliferate through the lineup or be offered by another manufacturer.
 

Rolfgang

Member
Hmm.. even if I'm seated at less than 2ft from screen ?

I'm reading some people saying that the text is small and all, but since I'm seated at around 1.8ft from screen, I'm not sure if this will bother me :/

Well it changes per person of course, if you are fine with it, then go for it I would say ;) I sit also close to my screen and I have a 24" 1080p screen now, but next week I'll get the Acer XB270HU (27" 1440p 144hz IPS screen with G-sync). I'm curious about the size, because I can't visualize it very good haha.
 

Handal

Member
Well it changes per person of course, if you are fine with it, then go for it I would say ;) I sit also close to my screen and I have a 24" 1080p screen now, but next week I'll get the Acer XB270HU (27" 1440p 144hz IPS screen with G-sync). I'm curious about the size, because I can't visualize it very good haha.

Yeah that monitor looks perfect in term of specs, but man it's 949.99$ here in Canada. Can't afford to pay that atm lol
 

AstroLad

Hail to the KING baby
Reposting my question for new page since we have TV coming in Monday. Any thoughts or experiences appreciated.

On modern PCs what is the best way to connect to 4kTV for comfy-couch gaming? Getting both a new TV and PC (PC tbd) and I'm actually thrilled by this prospect but have not done it before and don't know the right connections (DVI>VGA, HDMI, other?) or applications (Steam has a TV thing right?).
 

Smokey

Member
Reposting my question for new page since we have TV coming in Monday. Any thoughts or experiences appreciated.

On modern PCs what is the best way to connect to 4kTV for comfy-couch gaming? Getting both a new TV and PC (PC tbd) and I'm actually thrilled by this prospect but have not done it before and don't know the right connections (DVI>VGA, HDMI, other?) or applications (Steam has a TV thing right?).

Unless you have a Panasonic 4k TV, which has DisplayPort inputs, HDMI 2.0 is going to be the way to go.

And yes...Steam has a Big Picture mode.
 
Hey! I've been looking into building a new PC over the last couple of days. Here's what I have at the moment:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K boxed
GPU: MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Mainboard: MSI Z97-G45 Gaming
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Black
PSU: BE QUIET! Straight Power 10 500W Cable Management
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport Series DDR3-1600, CL9 - 16 GB Kit

With all that, I'm sitting at around 1200€. Is the 500W (80+ Gold) PSU appropriate for this setup? I don't really plan to overclock or put another GPU in there, at least right now. Also, is the difference between DDR3-1600 and 2133 noticeable?

edit: Also, I'm taking the SSD and HDDs from my old PC, would it work if I just transplanted the SSD from my old to my new PC without changing anything in Windows? (8.1) Or would a re-install be more advisable?

So I just ordered the setup mentioned above (except that I changed the PSU to the 600W variant and got a Noctua CPU cooler for potentially overclocking the CPU). Weirdly enough, at the retailer where I ordered (and most ones where I checked) the boxed i7 4790K with cooler was cheaper than both the boxed one without cooler and the tray variant. What's up with that? Just a supply/demand thing?
 
I recently bought the soundblasterZX. Like it a lot for gaming. Quesiton is, I have surround enabled in the SBX software and raised to a certain level, but my logitech G5500 speakers also have a surround setting and raised to a set level. Is having both set to surround making things worse? should i turn surround off on one of them?
 

RGM79

Member
Hey! I've been looking into building a new PC over the last couple of days. Here's what I have at the moment:

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K boxed
GPU: MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Mainboard: MSI Z97-G45 Gaming
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Black
PSU: BE QUIET! Straight Power 10 500W Cable Management
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport Series DDR3-1600, CL9 - 16 GB Kit

With all that, I'm sitting at around 1200€. Is the 500W (80+ Gold) PSU appropriate for this setup? I don't really plan to overclock or put another GPU in there, at least right now. Also, is the difference between DDR3-1600 and 2133 noticeable?

edit: Also, I'm taking the SSD and HDDs from my old PC, would it work if I just transplanted the SSD from my old to my new PC without changing anything in Windows? (8.1) Or would a re-install be more advisable?

So I just ordered the setup mentioned above (except that I changed the PSU to the 600W variant and got a Noctua CPU cooler for potentially overclocking the CPU). Weirdly enough, at the retailer where I ordered (and most ones where I checked) the boxed i7 4790K with cooler was cheaper than both the boxed one without cooler and the tray variant. What's up with that? Just a supply/demand thing?

That's a solid build. Good call on going with a stronger PSU, I would have recommended it as well in case you might want to do some overclocking and/or upgrade to a more power-hungry graphics card in the future. In daily use you won't notice the difference in RAM as there isn't really anything you'll be doing that is bottlenecked by RAM, very few games are affected by it. Still with higher speed RAM there's a few rare scenarios where some games benefit a lot and you might get +5% speed here and there in certain other programs.. but it's not that big a deal and not that big a loss if you went with 1600MHz.

Most likely you'll need to reinstall Windows. Can't say for certain if you can reactivate Windows with the same license key. If it refuses to reactivate, you'll need to contact Microsoft and get them to manually help you pass activation, be sure to say that you were upgrading your PC and that is it not a separate and different PC (they want you to buy separate licenses for separate PCs).

I recently bought the soundblasterZX. Like it a lot for gaming. Quesiton is, I have surround enabled in the SBX software and raised to a certain level, but my logitech G5500 speakers also have a surround setting and raised to a set level. Is having both set to surround making things worse? should i turn surround off on one of them?

I'm not sure what kind of surround settings you're talking about, but I'm not really an audio guy to begin with.

From my experience, usually the surround sound setting on the sound chipset just tells it how many outputs it should be using and how they're split (e.g., green to front L/R speakers, blue to front center speakers, black to rear L/R speakers, etc). A surround sound setting on the speaker set itself might be a virtual or matrix surround sound setting that takes stereo output from the PC if it doesn't support surround sound, and turns it into 4.1/5.1/7.1/etc sound channels by itself so even stereo can become surround sound. The old Logitech X-540 5/1 speaker set had the matrix mode feature, but I've only heard about it from friends and have never tried it myself. My Logitech Z506 speakers are 5.1 but lack any kind of surround sound settings on the speakers themselves.

Can you tell the difference if you set one of them off?
 
In terms of v-sync, is it better to use it globally (e.g. set in the nvidia control panel) or on a game-by-game basis? Is there any difference?

If it matters I am fiddling around with Project Cars right now.
 

RGM79

Member
In terms of v-sync, is it better to use it globally (e.g. set in the nvidia control panel) or on a game-by-game basis? Is there any difference?

If it matters I am fiddling around with Project Cars right now.

I usually do it on a game-by-game basis because my PC doesn't perform well for some games and sometimes vsync works better for some games and others not so much.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
27" monitor - 1080p gsync, or 1440p standard? Cant stretch to 1440p gsync, plus I could do with a HDMI/DVI input for PS3/PSTV.

Will be driven by an overclocked GTX970.
 
27" monitor - 1080p gsync, or 1440p standard? Cant stretch to 1440p gsync, plus I could do with a HDMI/DVI input for PS3/PSTV.

Will be driven by an overclocked GTX970.

I know I sound like a broken record - and I'm completely partial here - but g-sync is a huge, huge upgrade.
 

MedIC86

Member
27" monitor - 1080p gsync, or 1440p standard? Cant stretch to 1440p gsync, plus I could do with a HDMI/DVI input for PS3/PSTV.

Will be driven by an overclocked GTX970.

1080p on 27" is really bad, once i went with a dell 27" 1440p there is no way back for me. Also it depends are both screens IPS? if so i would get IPS>Gsync but thats just me. If they are both IPS maybe get a smaller screen with gsync.
 
Finally upgraded after 4.5 years. Got a MSI 970 Gaming 4G.

It is fantastic so far. I love that the fans don't spin when the temperature is low. This is the first Nvidia card I've had in a long time, and the software side is really nice. I actually found the "geforce experience" (lol) useful for setting up things in Project Cars. My old 6950 2GB is going to my gf's computer.


There was a little bit of coil whine during splash screens but setting a 60 fps cap in rivatuner fixed that.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
1080p on 27" is really bad, once i went with a dell 27" 1440p there is no way back for me. Also it depends are both screens IPS? if so i would get IPS>Gsync but thats just me. If they are both IPS maybe get a smaller screen with gsync.


I currently have a 27"'VA 1080p monitor. It's fine for gaming in terms of resolution, but for apps etc I wouldn't say no to some extra real estate. Although I did just add a second monitor scrounged from work which helps with that.
 
That's a solid build. Good call on going with a stronger PSU, I would have recommended it as well in case you might want to do some overclocking and/or upgrade to a more power-hungry graphics card in the future. In daily use you won't notice the difference in RAM as there isn't really anything you'll be doing that is bottlenecked by RAM, very few games are affected by it. Still with higher speed RAM there's a few rare scenarios where some games benefit a lot and you might get +5% speed here and there in certain other programs.. but it's not that big a deal and not that big a loss if you went with 1600MHz.

Most likely you'll need to reinstall Windows. Can't say for certain if you can reactivate Windows with the same license key. If it refuses to reactivate, you'll need to contact Microsoft and get them to manually help you pass activation, be sure to say that you were upgrading your PC and that is it not a separate and different PC (they want you to buy separate licenses for separate PCs).

Thanks for the input. As for RAM, I was thinking about putting the RAM from my current machine into the new one as well, since I'm not going to use it anymore, I might as well put it in. I think I'm just going to try to just put the SSD into the new PC and see what happens.
 

Vertti

Member
I'm going to States in 20th of July-3th of August.

Because computer parts are much cheaper there than in Finland I'm probably going to buy a CPU and GPU from there. I'm thinking about i5-4690k and GTX 980 Ti. I'm going for EVGA because their warranty system. Which model would you recommend?

I'm probably going to buy all the other parts from Finland. My budget for other parts is 500-600€. Here's the two biggest retailers:
www.verkkokauppa.com
www.jimms.fi

I'm still playing in 1080p and probably sometimes on tv screen. I will overclock.

What kind of build would you recommend?

I've been reading about water cooling. I think about using something like Corsair Hydro Series. Are the cheaper models H55, H60 etc. worth it?

And I don't have any idea how american posting works. So if I order it to my home adress when in States do I have to collect it somewhere or do I get it to my mail box?

Thank you in advance. First time I'm building a computer and I'm quite excited. Finally be able to emulate Gamecube, Wii and PS2 games in high res + play all the newer games in max graphics.

Anyone?
 
Freak out post from Ubuntu Live USB.

I just added 8 gigs ram to a 4 gig machine to make a total of 12 gigs. I used the opportunity to clean out some dust that had caked up.

After booting, I encountered a series of issues:

1. Displayport>Monitor stopped working -- using HDMI works though
2. Saw that chkdsk was running and was able to boot to Windows alright at least once after it ran
3. After more reboots to try and troubleshoot Displayport..
4. System boot error -- It looks my machine no longer sees my SSD anymore, not in BIOS or anything. SATA DVD Drive shows up fine and is responsive.

What's going on? Did I fry a component? I was using a wrist strap and everything.

My SSD is an OCZ Agility 2 btw.

I took out the new 8GB RAM and put the old 4GB back. Recommendations?
 

Einchy

semen stains the mountaintops
My computer died yesterday and I've been looking into upgrading rather than fixing my current one since it's now five years old and can't run any of the newer games.

Trying to get a gaming computer is incredibly daunting when you've got zero idea about what part is good or isn't.

Does anyone know of a place that has up to date prebuilds? I actually used this thread back in 2010 to build my last computer but it seems this one is about 7 months out of date.
 

RGM79

Member

There's only a few choices when it comes to the GTX 980 Ti. There's the reference cooler models, the EVGA ACX cooler models, and then the watercooled models.

You probably want one of the first two types, and the only differences between the various ones are what clock speed they're set to run at. There are the low speed models and the factory overclocked models that run at a slightly higher speed by default. You can always just overclock the lower speed models, so speed doesn't make much of a difference.

If you're set on EVGA, then you may want to aim for the Superclocked+ edition, which has a backplate that can help with cooling and keeps the card from sagging. It does cost $30 over the base model's $650 MSRP, though.

Base model with ACX cooler

Superclocked+ with ACX cooler

My computer died yesterday and I've been looking into upgrading rather than fixing my current one since it's now five years old and can't run any of the newer games.

Trying to get a gaming computer is incredibly daunting when you've got zero idea about what part is good or isn't.

Does anyone know of a place that has up to date prebuilds? I actually used this thread back in 2010 to build my last computer but it seems this one is about 7 months out of date.

Tell us country, budget, and fill out the survey from the OP and we can give you parts recommendations now. We're waiting a few days for AMD's new R9 3XX line to fully arrive with reviews before updating the OP's list of recommended parts.
 

Einchy

semen stains the mountaintops
America with around a 1k budget.

I hope I don't sound too dumb saying this (like I said, I have no idea what I'm doing), but if at all possible I would like to reuse some parts from my old computer.

This is the case I have right now, hopefully new motherboards fit it, if not I have no issue buying a newer one.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146059

CD drive.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

HDD.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185

3 sticks of this RAM.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231190

Power supply.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151094

Like I said, though, if those aren't compatible with newer motherboards I have no issue getting new ones.
 

MisterNoisy

Member
America with around a 1k budget.

I hope I don't sound too dumb saying this (like I said, I have no idea what I'm doing), but if at all possible I would like to reuse some parts from my old computer.

This is the case I have right now, hopefully new motherboards fit it, if not I have no issue buying a newer one.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146059

CD drive.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

HDD.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185

3 sticks of this RAM.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231190

Power supply.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151094

Like I said, though, if those aren't compatible with newer motherboards I have no issue getting new ones.

All of that stuff is good to carry forward, but I'd either get another stick of that RAM or a new 2/4-stick set because modern memory controllers all operate best in dual-channel mode. Also keep an eye on the length of your chosen video cards - a lot of them are right around that 10.5" max allowance in the case.
 

RGM79

Member
America with around a 1k budget.

I hope I don't sound too dumb saying this (like I said, I have no idea what I'm doing), but if at all possible I would like to reuse some parts from my old computer.

This is the case I have right now, hopefully new motherboards fit it, if not I have no issue buying a newer one.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146059

CD drive.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

HDD.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185

3 sticks of this RAM.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231190

Power supply.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151094

Like I said, though, if those aren't compatible with newer motherboards I have no issue getting new ones.
It's all compatible. The case is a bit old and certain CPU coolers won't fit, but we can recommend different parts than what we usually go with. The power supply is a little bit low on the wattage, but will be fine with certain graphics cards and processors, I wouldn't recommend overclocking with it, maybe. You can always replace the power supply later, though. Three 2GB sticks of RAM is still OK, we can find you a fourth stick of 2GB RAM to total up to an even 8GB for dual channel mode.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($96.00 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston 2GB (1 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($14.69 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($177.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card ($319.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Beta Evo ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $881.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-20 18:35 EDT-0400

Don't worry about the compatibility warnings, I've checked the dimensions and they all fit. There's still money left over, it's up to you if you want anything else like a new case or power supply. Getting new RAM is also an option, but it'll also bring up the costs.
 
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