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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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knitoe

Member
I installed the latest drivers to fix the resolution, but my game still crashes.

I'm out of options unless there's more troubleshooting I can try.
Go to retail store and buy a video card to test to rule out the video card. Once you are done, return it for a refund.
 

RGM79

Member
I installed the latest drivers to fix the resolution, but my game still crashes.

I'm out of options unless there's more troubleshooting I can try.

Maybe try Display Driver Uninstaller to clear away old driver install files before reinstalling again. It runs your computer through safe mode to clear away all instances of files that may conflict with installing drivers.
 

RGM79

Member
Does anyone know of a Good WiFi Range Extender?

I want to access my friend's WiFi from the far end of his house to the Far End of My House. We're neighbors by fence, but different lanes.

Sounds like you may need something rated for outdoors use or weatherproofing, unless there's a relatively weather and temperature change resistant shed in between your houses or something.

You should probably look into wireless N 2.4GHz repeaters. Wireless adaptors using wireless N/AC 5GHz are faster but have less range and the signal doesn't go through walls as well. Sorry, I don't have a specific model in mind as I haven't really tried wireless extenders. Generally I like Linksys and Asus as brands for wireless equipment, though.

He means the backs of their houses face one another but the front of the houses are on parallel streets. Well, using repeaters isn't an ideal solution, but it could work.

I have an i7 2600k. Don't know if I plan on over clocking.
Then I'll just recommend the 212 Evo. It'll be fine and if you want to overclock in the future, you have the option. No need to pay more than you need to if you're unsure about overclocking.

Since I now do not want to buy a 970 given how Nvidia has misrepresented the card, I'm thinking about going AMD. I'm going to be playing at 1600x900, so the 290 will probably be perfectly fine?

It'll be fine. I recommended a R9 290 above that goes for $250 USD after rebate. As long as you're not buying one of the reference cooler models, you'll be fine. Reference cooler models have a boxy shroud and a single fan, they get extremely hot (94 degrees Celsius) because the cooler isn't very effective, it's just barely enough to keep it from overheating.

hqdefault.jpg

That's a reference R9 290 on top with a Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X on the bottom. The Tri-X model's triple fan cooler makes it one of the best R9 290 models you can get.

I installed the latest drivers to fix the resolution, but my game still crashes. I'm out of options unless there's more troubleshooting I can try.
I literally just tried that as someone else had suggested it.
Go to retail store and buy a video card to test to rule out the video card. Once you are done, return it for a refund.
Sorry, didn't notice that mkenyon already linked you to it.

Er, some stores may charge restocking fees on returns, as much as 15%. Returning the graphics card might be a hassle, as well. Maybe try the current graphics card in another PC (yours or a friend's PC) to see if it causes the same issues.
 

Dwalls

Neo Member
Hey guys, still looking for help. I made this post a few pages back but didn't get a lot of response. I figured I should simplify it. Never built a pc before and I want to be 100% sure I have the correct parts to build one succesfully, have partslist - used pcpartpicker this time to get a better list for you dudes. Linked post has requirements for my pc. Some of the choices might not be the cheapest option on pcpartpicker but they're cheaper than the alternatives listed in the O.P if I use the local webshop I plan to use. I live in Belgium so not all parts are available here. The fractal define is a stylistic quiet choice over the air540 - and I figured a mid atx tower would be better suited for a novice builder with no clue on cable routing.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($316.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($123.75 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB STRIX Video Card ($549.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($107.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($90.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($13.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1519.29

Three questions:
1) pcpartpicker gives me this blurb about the memory which I think means I need to pick something else?
The Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory operating voltage of 1.65V exceeds the Intel Haswell Refresh CPU recommended maximum of 1.5V+5% (1.575V). This memory module may run at a reduced clock rate to meet the 1.5V voltage recommendation.

2) Is that coolermaster powersupply the same one as this one because the names aren't an exact match on the webshop I plan to use.
3) I'd like more TB's in storage (at least 2 but 4 might be preferred), but am clueless on hd speeds. I'd like a speedy drive since I'm planning to run games off of it. Any recommendations?
 

Dries

Member
GAF, I'm scared.

Since a day or two my computer has had the most trouble ever booting. Whenever I power up the system I'll hear the fans running. Then the computer shuts itself off and tries to reboot again. This process can easily repeat itself 6-7 times. Eventually though, it will boot and show a screen that says something like "due to overclocking or adjusting voltages the BIOS settings have now been reset." Then I'll have to enter the BIOS to manually put my settings back.

I have an overclocked 2500K 4.4Ghz, whenever I run stock speeds this problem also still does occur. My system has had troubles with cold booting before, but never has it been so frequent or has it needed so many boots to finally succeed one. It's happening everytime I boot now too.

The strange thing is, when I stress test my CPU's OC, it's stable.

I've also just installed a GTX980 a week ago. Maybe coincidence or maybe not?
 

RGM79

Member
Hey guys, still looking for help. I made this post a few pages back but didn't get a lot of response. I figured I should simplify it. Never built a pc before and I want to be 100% sure I have the correct parts to build one succesfully, have partslist - used pcpartpicker this time to get a better list for you dudes. Linked post has requirements for my pc. Some of the choices might not be the cheapest option on pcpartpicker but they're cheaper than the alternatives listed in the O.P if I use the local webshop I plan to use. I live in Belgium so not all parts are available here.

Two questions:
1) pcpartpicker gives me this blurb about the memory which I think means I need to pick something else?
The Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory operating voltage of 1.65V exceeds the Intel Haswell Refresh CPU recommended maximum of 1.5V+5% (1.575V). This memory module may run at a reduced clock rate to meet the 1.5V voltage recommendation.
2) Is that coolermaster powersupply the same one as this one because the names aren't an exact match on the webshop I plan to use.

Yo, what's up dudes. I need help and I've got a few questions but I figured I should answer the question in the O.P first.

Current pc: My current pc is from 2010 and is rocking an i5-760 + HD5870 - 8GB of some random brandname ram, and a power supply I've long since forgot. I'm not really looking to upgrade it. Oh and a stupid Gigabyte P75-D deluxe motherboard with the remote control for overclocking which I have never used. Please don't let me make dumb mistakes like that one.
My budget: Upper limit is 2000€, I'd like to stay as far below that as possible while still splurging on a great gaming build though. I'd specifically like to use this store: www.alternate.be because it's close to my house making RMA's etc super easy.
Main use: Gaming + Hobbyist music production. I want this to be powerful and fast, while being as quiet as humanly possible. Basically I'm lazy and just want to hit ultra on my videogames instead of spending hours obsessing over which shadows I could do without. I'd imagine 1080p videoplayback etc is a given.
Monitor resolution: 1080p for the forseeable future. Not going 4k before the content does, 3D still burns.
Specific games/applications: I'm on team green this gen, no longer shall I run a game at 10 fps because physx on the CPU sucks. + I really want a bunch of random debris exploding everywhere in the 6 games or so that support it. I own most of them anyway.

No part re-use - besides peripherals. Want to build as soon as possible. Will not be overclocking anything, I never have because I'm lazy and I'd get too obsessive compulsive about doing it if I did.

Now for some questions:
1) I've never built a pc but I really want too - as someone who can identify all the ports/parts on a motherboard and a good 90% of the cables, how difficult is it to build my own? The best I've managed to do so far is installing a coolermaster hyper 212 evo by myself, while everything was in the case (Antec 902 had a cutout so I didn't need to remove anything). That worked out great honestly. I really want to build my own because I'm tired of returning it to a store for servicing, especially because I know they snoop around and I don't need them to see my 450gb mylittlepony porn collection (J/K).
2) I've got a parts list picked out based on mix and matching some stuff from the O.P, I think I've got everything but I'd appreciate some insights/advice. I'd be using it for gaming, audio production (e.g running ableton live), and more gaming. The audio production part comes with the biggest caveat, I need this thing to be as close to dead silent as possible. My 902 + HD5870 is loud as balls and has ruined many recordings up to date. I'm fine with onboard sound for multimedia stuff (surround is a + though) since I'm using an external audio interface to record.

Ableton Live 9 has very light requirements, so it is definitely possible to bring the cost down without sacrificing much performance, if at all. Is Amazon.de an option for you? PCPartPicker also has a German price database, if that works for you. I'll mostly keep to the website you mentioned, it has a PC configurator which seems very well detailed and easy to use, even though I don't understand the language.

I didn't see a way to share or export the alternate.be shopping cart list, so here it is in screenshot form. It comes out to €1.637,38 and I am not sure if that includes tax or not.

Here's a similar build on PCPartPicker but from the German price database, I just changed some parts where I found cheaper prices. I do not know about taxes either, I am not sure how it works in the EU. It may or may not be included in the prices and there may be shipping deals if you were to purchase an order from these shops. It does seem a bit cheaper to order from German retailers, although I don't know about shipping costs and time.

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€242.88 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€32.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€109.90 @ Caseking)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (€140.59 @ Home of Hardware DE)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€107.68 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€74.90 @ Caseking)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (€118.36 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: Super Flower Golden Green HX 750W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (€89.90 @ Caseking)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-222BB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (€19.95 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Other: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card (€575.00)
Total: €1512.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-29 07:39 CET+0100

Now, on to your questions:
1. It's not too hard to build a PC. You yourself said that you know most of the components and can find your way around. Nearly all of the parts will have a manual you can refer to so you can figure out how to install it. If not, there are many online videos you can refer to for help, or you can ask us.

2. The Fractal Define R5 is a very nice case with sound-muffling features. I recommend the GTX 970 and 980 for a graphics card with a silent fan feature when at low temperature. MSI, Asus, and some other models have that silent fan mode.

3. The memory voltage is not a big concern. There are few to no memory modules that run at 2400MHz at low voltage, anyway. It will still be compatible and run fine. It won't matter, I will recommend different RAM for you.

4. There are better quality power supplies for the same price, so I wouldn't be so set on getting that Corsair model. For example, 750 watt Seasonic and Super Flower models are available at the same price as that Cooler Master model.

Edit: You are interested in silence, maybe the EVGA Supernova G2 750 watt model is for you, it has an "eco fan" mode that lowers fan noise. It is €134,90 at alternate.be. The Seasonic M12II Evo power supply I picked also has "smart & silent fan control" but I do not know how it compares to the EVGA model.

I have a few last things to say, mostly concerning the budget.

Although you can afford the GTX 980 in your budget, it is not the most cost-effective solution. The GTX 970 is much cheaper, also capable of silent fan modes, and will meet your needs at 1080p. However, Nvidia recently had to acknowledge that the GTX 970 had a problem with the hardware design that did not allow it to effectively utilize all of its graphics memory. The GTX 970's issues won't really affect you at 1080p but it could be a problem in the future when games require more graphics memory, so I guess the GTX 980 will work for you despite costing about €600.. €200 more than the GTX 970. The GTX 980 is the best-performing card you can buy and the MSI model I chose has an automatic silent setting for the fans.

You don't have to worry about pairing the same brand motherboard with the same brand graphics card. There is no bonus or added performance to having both, except maybe if they have the same looks and you want it to look the same.

The 4690K and Z97 motherboard I recommended have the ability to overclock. Even if you do not currently plan to overclock, having the option available a few years down the road is nice - overclocking is much more simple than it was back when you bought your old i5 760, there are many guides out there. Until you do change the settings to overclock, the processor will just run normally.

If you do opt for non-overclocking parts to save money, I recommend the i5 4590 or 4690 (both non-K models) and a cheaper motherboard from this page like the MSI H97 PC Mate. You will save around €50-75 by going with those parts.
 
GAF, I'm scared.

Since a day or two my computer has had the most trouble ever booting. Whenever I power up the system I'll hear the fans running. Then the computer shuts itself off and tries to reboot again. This process can easily repeat itself 6-7 times. Eventually though, it will boot and show a screen that says something like "due to overclocking or adjusting voltages the BIOS settings have now been reset." Then I'll have to enter the BIOS to manually put my settings back.

I have an overclocked 2500K 4.4Ghz, whenever I run stock speeds this problem also still does occur. My system has had troubles with cold booting before, but never has it been so frequent or has it needed so many boots to finally succeed one. It's happening everytime I boot now too.

The strange thing is, when I stress test my CPU's OC, it's stable.

I've also just installed a GTX980 a week ago. Maybe coincidence or maybe not?
What is your PSU?
 
Thanks guys, this info helps alot. I was worried I would have to start from scratch again. Any recommendations on how much I should Overclock without pushing it too far? Ive heard alot of horror stories about kids destroying their CPUs when over clocking too much or just plain not knowing what they are doing.


You don't need to focus too much on what clock speed you'll get. Instead look at temperatures and vcore and set a limit for those two. Personally I had limits of ~75C for prime stress testing (which will result in ~70C max. temperatures while gaming) and ~1.40V for the Vcore.
And make sure to never (like: never) use the automatic mode that your UEFI offers to overclock. Chances are it'll set ridiculously high voltages.
I'd also recommend reading one or two guides about overclocking Sandy Bridge CPUs, so that you are familiar with stuff like vdroop, offset mode etc. Maybe someone here can link you to a nice one, I only have German ones at hand ^^

It's really a pretty easy and straight forward process, so don't worry ;)
 
You don't need to focus too much on what clock speed you'll get. Instead look at temperatures and vcore and set a limit for those two. Personally I had limits of ~75C for prime stress testing (which will result in ~70C max. temperatures while gaming) and ~1.40V for the Vcore.
And make sure to never (like: never) use the automatic mode that your UEFI offers to overclock. Chances are it'll set ridiculously high voltages.
I'd also recommend reading one or two guides about overclocking Sandy Bridge CPUs, so that you are familiar with stuff like vdroop, offset mode etc. Maybe someone here can link you to a nice one, I only have German ones at hand ^^

It's really a pretty easy and straight forward process, so don't worry ;)
What cpu are you using? Is 1.4 vcore a bit high?
 

Dwalls

Neo Member
Ableton Live 9 has very light requirements, so it is definitely possible to bring the cost down without sacrificing much performance, if at all. Is Amazon.de an option for you? PCPartPicker also has a German price database, if that works for you. I'll mostly keep to the website you mentioned, it has a PC configurator which seems very well detailed and easy to use, even though I don't understand the language.

I didn't see a way to share or export the alternate.be shopping cart list, so here it is in screenshot form. It comes out to €1.637,38 and I am not sure if that includes tax or not.

Here's a similar build on PCPartPicker but from the German price database, I just changed some parts where I found cheaper prices. I do not know about taxes either, I am not sure how it works in the EU. It may or may not be included in the prices and there may be shipping deals if you were to purchase an order from these shops. It does seem a bit cheaper to order from German retailers, although I don't know about shipping costs and time.

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€242.88 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€32.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€109.90 @ Caseking)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (€140.59 @ Home of Hardware DE)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€107.68 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€74.90 @ Caseking)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (€118.36 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: Super Flower Golden Green HX 750W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (€89.90 @ Caseking)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-222BB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (€19.95 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Other: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card (€575.00)
Total: €1512.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-29 07:39 CET+0100

Now, on to your questions:
1. It's not too hard to build a PC. You yourself said that you know most of the components and can find your way around. Nearly all of the parts will have a manual you can refer to so you can figure out how to install it. If not, there are many online videos you can refer to for help, or you can ask us.

2. The Fractal Define R5 is a very nice case with sound-muffling features. I recommend the GTX 970 and 980 for a graphics card with a silent fan feature when at low temperature. MSI, Asus, and some other models have that silent fan mode.

3. The memory voltage is not a big concern. There are few to no memory modules that run at 2400MHz at low voltage, anyway. It will still be compatible and run fine. It won't matter, I will recommend different RAM for you.

4. There are better quality power supplies for the same price, so I wouldn't be so set on getting that Corsair model. For example, 750 watt Seasonic and Super Flower models are available at the same price as that Cooler Master model.

Edit: You are interested in silence, maybe the EVGA Supernova G2 750 watt model is for you, it has an "eco fan" mode that lowers fan noise. It is €134,90 at alternate.be. The Seasonic M12II Evo power supply I picked also has "smart & silent fan control" but I do not know how it compares to the EVGA model.

I have a few last things to say, mostly concerning the budget.

Although you can afford the GTX 980 in your budget, it is not the most cost-effective solution. The GTX 970 is much cheaper, also capable of silent fan modes, and will meet your needs at 1080p. However, Nvidia recently had to acknowledge that the GTX 970 had a problem with the hardware design that did not allow it to effectively utilize all of its graphics memory. The GTX 970's issues won't really affect you at 1080p but it could be a problem in the future when games require more graphics memory, so I guess the GTX 980 will work for you despite costing about €600.. €200 more than the GTX 970. The GTX 980 is the best-performing card you can buy and the MSI model I chose has an automatic silent setting for the fans.

You don't have to worry about pairing the same brand motherboard with the same brand graphics card. There is no bonus or added performance to having both, except maybe if they have the same looks and you want it to look the same.

The 4690K and Z97 motherboard I recommended have the ability to overclock. Even if you do not currently plan to overclock, having the option available a few years down the road is nice - overclocking is much more simple than it was back when you bought your old i5 760, there are many guides out there. Until you do change the settings to overclock, the processor will just run normally.

If you do opt for non-overclocking parts to save money, I recommend the i5 4590 or 4690 (both non-K models) and a cheaper motherboard from this page like the MSI H97 PC Mate. You will save around €50-75 by going with those parts.

Holy shit thanks man! Especially for wading through the dutch site I gave you. If I could share my gaf gold with you I would ;). Amazon.de is out of the question because I have no patience ;) and delivery times are a lot longer for them - since I can't just go pickup the hw myself.

I switched to the evga power supply you recommended since it's fully modular and had a great review from jonnyguru - + the semi fanless sounds exactly like what I need for quiet sessions. I also switched to the memory you recommended. The Samsung 850 evo seems like a good deal, especially with the 5 year warranty, so I switched that in too. I'm sticking to my guns on the 980/4790k because I don't want to compromise any raw speed if I can pull it off in my budget. Mostly because I regretted getting the 760 instead of the 2500k pretty badly back then. I did switch to the MSI 980 from the asus 980 for the higher clockspeed and well advertised silent operation (which asus has too). I ended up deciding to transplant an older 2gb harddrive for multimedia storage, so I'm sticking with the WD blue since it supresses the costs from adding the faster/slightly more expensive stuff. Everything else is the same. I'm going to be pulling the trigger on this in 2 to 3 hours so I can go pick it up today or have it delivered tomorrow. Here's the final list for people to check out and hopefully aprove of.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($316.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($126.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Beast 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($151.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($131.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($554.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($107.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($77.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($13.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1541.51

Thanks for the help again dude. Guys please feel free to tell me I made good decisions so I can pull the trigger without the terrible buyers remorse I usually go through.
 
Holy shit thanks man! Especially for wading through the dutch site I gave you. If I could share my gaf gold with you I would ;). Amazon.de is out of the question because I have no patience ;) and delivery times are a lot longer for them - since I can't just go pickup the hw myself.

I switched to the evga power supply you recommended since it's fully modular and had a great review from jonnyguru - + the semi fanless sounds exactly like what I need for quiet sessions. I also switched to the memory you recommended. The Samsung 850 evo seems like a good deal, especially with the 5 year warranty, so I switched that in too. I'm sticking to my guns on the 980/4790k because I don't want to compromise any raw speed if I can pull it off in my budget. Mostly because I regretted getting the 760 instead of the 2500k pretty badly back then. I did switch to the MSI 980 from the asus 980 for the higher clockspeed and well advertised silent operation (which asus has too). I ended up deciding to transplant an older 2gb harddrive for multimedia storage, so I'm sticking with the WD blue since it supresses the costs from adding the faster/slightly more expensive stuff. Everything else is the same. I'm going to be pulling the trigger on this in 2 to 3 hours so I can go pick it up today or have it delivered tomorrow. Here's the final list for people to check out and hopefully aprove of.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($316.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($126.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Beast 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($151.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($131.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($554.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($107.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($77.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($13.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1541.51

Thanks for the help again dude. Guys please feel free to tell me I made good decisions so I can pull the trigger without the terrible buyers remorse I usually go through.

This looks very good.
 

kennah

Member
GAF, I'm scared.

Since a day or two my computer has had the most trouble ever booting. Whenever I power up the system I'll hear the fans running. Then the computer shuts itself off and tries to reboot again. This process can easily repeat itself 6-7 times. Eventually though, it will boot and show a screen that says something like "due to overclocking or adjusting voltages the BIOS settings have now been reset." Then I'll have to enter the BIOS to manually put my settings back.

I have an overclocked 2500K 4.4Ghz, whenever I run stock speeds this problem also still does occur. My system has had troubles with cold booting before, but never has it been so frequent or has it needed so many boots to finally succeed one. It's happening everytime I boot now too.

The strange thing is, when I stress test my CPU's OC, it's stable.

I've also just installed a GTX980 a week ago. Maybe coincidence or maybe not?
Sounds like power supply
 
how close are we to a 300 series amd card? and how would the prices compare?

i can't decide if i should go for a 290 now or wait for a 390. right now a 290 would cost me £230-260. basically, what was the price of a 290 at launch just so i can get an idea of what extra i'll be paying at launch or maybe a few months after?

i was gonna spend £1000+ on a i5-4690K/GTX 970 set up but that would be overkill i guess. i'm completely happy to play at 1080p 30-60fps with high settings. not interested in anything 4K at the moment.

if i get a 290 i think i'd drop the CPU to a 4690 or 4590.
 
Looking to buy an Intel based mobo and obviously a CPU along with it on my return to the states this summer. Any recommendations? What should be my minimum amount of sys ram be as well?
 

H4r4kiri

Member
how close are we to a 300 series amd card? and how would the prices compare?

i can't decide if i should go for a 290 now or wait for a 390. right now a 290 would cost me £230-260. basically, what was the price of a 290 at launch just so i can get an idea of what extra i'll be paying at launch or maybe a few months after?

i was gonna spend £1000+ on a i5-4690K/GTX 970 set up but that would be overkill i guess. i'm completely happy to play at 1080p 30-60fps with high settings. not interested in anything 4K at the moment.

if i get a 290 i think i'd drop the CPU to a 4690 or 4590.

In Germany the K and normal models cost almost the same ?
 

H4r4kiri

Member
They also sell on Amazon and they have positive feedback. Never heard of them before, too.

Is it more expensive to buy over amazon ? Then you have a granted good service.

And you may go with Win 8.1, because it uses less resources and has exclusive graphic features.
 

Helznicht

Member
So looking at upgrading my 6yo PC. It has a core duo quad at 2.8ghz. As its at 45nm cpu I feel it should have the stretch to get into the 3.2ghz range easily.

so in your guys opinion, 3.2 ghz x 4 cores is still very viable for gaming right?

Now part 2, getting to 3.2. the 2.8 ghz is 8.5x 333.3 clock. My MB is a Nforce 650i. (Dell XPS, yeah I know). NOTHING I have tried will get it to post past 1333 fsb (even 1334 prevents post) so I am thinking the Motherboard is just refusing to let this happen. As the nforce lets you separate fsb and mem clock speeds, my mem is not holding me back (in fact I have a meager +50 mhz oc on the mem already.

Questions:

1) can i use 650i nforce drivers from nvidia on this, would updating them help in overclocking?
2) whats the most voltage you woudl recomend on my CPU as this mb lets me adjust that.
3) woudl upping voltage on the chipset help in getting over 1333 hump?

Thanks guys!
 

Strazyplus

Member
As someone who is trying to build a computer, one thing you want is to get all your parts quickly and safely. However NZXT is having some supply problems and many orders are unfulfilled to this date. it has been nine days as of today since order and add likely four or five days till they get the products made and finally start shipping them.

TL;DR : contact NZXT and ask them about supply of the product before you buy it directly from them.

Also has anyone experienced anything like this before?
 

LilJoka

Member
So looking at upgrading my 6yo PC. It has a core duo quad at 2.8ghz. As its at 45nm cpu I feel it should have the stretch to get into the 3.2ghz range easily.

so in your guys opinion, 3.2 ghz x 4 cores is still very viable for gaming right?

Now part 2, getting to 3.2. the 2.8 ghz is 8.5x 333.3 clock. My MB is a Nforce 650i. (Dell XPS, yeah I know). NOTHING I have tried will get it to post past 1333 fsb (even 1334 prevents post) so I am thinking the Motherboard is just refusing to let this happen. As the nforce lets you separate fsb and mem clock speeds, my mem is not holding me back (in fact I have a meager +50 mhz oc on the mem already.

Questions:

1) can i use 650i nforce drivers from nvidia on this, would updating them help in overclocking?
2) whats the most voltage you woudl recomend on my CPU as this mb lets me adjust that.
3) woudl upping voltage on the chipset help in getting over 1333 hump?

Thanks guys!

1.5v max CPU vcore, not sure about the rest as I had a non n force board.

Sounds like the bios won't let you increase the FSB. There were tools you could use from within windows to increase the FSB, may want to look into that.
 

RGM79

Member
Holy shit thanks man! Especially for wading through the dutch site I gave you. If I could share my gaf gold with you I would ;). Amazon.de is out of the question because I have no patience ;) and delivery times are a lot longer for them - since I can't just go pickup the hw myself.

I switched to the evga power supply you recommended since it's fully modular and had a great review from jonnyguru - + the semi fanless sounds exactly like what I need for quiet sessions. I also switched to the memory you recommended. The Samsung 850 evo seems like a good deal, especially with the 5 year warranty, so I switched that in too. I'm sticking to my guns on the 980/4790k because I don't want to compromise any raw speed if I can pull it off in my budget. Mostly because I regretted getting the 760 instead of the 2500k pretty badly back then. I did switch to the MSI 980 from the asus 980 for the higher clockspeed and well advertised silent operation (which asus has too). I ended up deciding to transplant an older 2gb harddrive for multimedia storage, so I'm sticking with the WD blue since it supresses the costs from adding the faster/slightly more expensive stuff. Everything else is the same. I'm going to be pulling the trigger on this in 2 to 3 hours so I can go pick it up today or have it delivered tomorrow. Here's the final list for people to check out and hopefully aprove of.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($316.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($126.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Beast 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($151.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($131.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($554.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($107.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($77.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($13.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1541.51

Thanks for the help again dude. Guys please feel free to tell me I made good decisions so I can pull the trigger without the terrible buyers remorse I usually go through.

I approve. You are capable of doing research of the parts that you will be getting, so you're a step ahead of most of the other people we recommend build lists for.

Any word on when the next gtx series is dropping? Want to build a another pc, but am waiting for skylake and windows 10.

Although Skylake will come with a new motherboard chipset that will be incompatible with and eventually replace the current Z97 and socket 1150 motherboards, it will also not be overclockable (at least until they release Skylake K processors). I don't expect Skylake to be that big of a difference compared to current processors in terms of raw performance, so buying now isn't that bad - you're still getting a processor that will last you a few years, even longer with the ability to overclock.

The GTX 970/980 were released less than half a year ago, so we won't be seeing the next line of GTX 10xx (if that's even what they'll be called) for maybe a few years. Other than that, there's the Nvidia Titan X apparently coming in a few months, but that's not for everyone..

how close are we to a 300 series amd card? and how would the prices compare?

i can't decide if i should go for a 290 now or wait for a 390. right now a 290 would cost me £230-260. basically, what was the price of a 290 at launch just so i can get an idea of what extra i'll be paying at launch or maybe a few months after?

i was gonna spend £1000+ on a i5-4690K/GTX 970 set up but that would be overkill i guess. i'm completely happy to play at 1080p 30-60fps with high settings. not interested in anything 4K at the moment.

if i get a 290 i think i'd drop the CPU to a 4690 or 4590.

The R9 3xx series is rumored for a Q2 2015 release. R9 290 launch price was $400 USD.

I'd stick with the 4690K if only for the ability to overclock for added longevity before needing to upgrade again, I'm quite sure you could fit the 4690K and the R9 290 in your budget, unless you were looking to save as much money as possible or something.

Looking to buy an Intel based mobo and obviously a CPU along with it on my return to the states this summer. Any recommendations? What should be my minimum amount of sys ram be as well?

Do you have a budget? The absolutely minimum I'd go with is 4GB, but you should be able to get 8GB if you can, and 16GB will cover all you could need even if you're doing video editing.
 
What cpu are you using? Is 1.4 vcore a bit high?


Sorry, should have specified. This is for Sandy Bridge CPU's (in that case the i5-2500k). That's really the maximum where I still felt like I won't kill the CPU and I actually never went over ~1.36v once I found stable settings (i.e. I set 1.4v just to see if the OC'ed CPU works and then reduced the voltage).
 

Miang

Member
Hello all! Was hoping I could get some pointers on my first ever build. I wanted something mid range, I'm not bothered about playing new games on ultra settings- I'd like to be able to run Dolphin and PCSX2 well, and dabble in some PC games too. I reckon I'll go with the i5 4690K and am intending on overclocking, hopefully that will last me a good while as I don't have the cash to be upgrading often.

Is everything here OK or are any parts overkill for what I want? I would rather have an optical drive for ripping game discs for emulation.

Thanks, have lurked for a while and read a lot and these threads have been a huge help!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£173.94 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.44 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£83.04 @ Dabs)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£56.67 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£69.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.59 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card (£103.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£43.48 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£47.99 @ Aria PC)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (£10.46 @ Aria PC)
Total: £654.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-29 15:01 GMT+0000
 

LilJoka

Member
Hello all! Was hoping I could get some pointers on my first ever build. I wanted something mid range, I'm not bothered about playing new games on ultra settings- I'd like to be able to run Dolphin and PCSX2 well, and dabble in some PC games too. I reckon I'll go with the i5 4690K and am intending on overclocking, hopefully that will last me a good while as I don't have the cash to be upgrading often.

Is everything here OK or are any parts overkill for what I want? I would rather have an optical drive for ripping game discs for emulation.

Thanks, have lurked for a while and read a lot and these threads have been a huge help!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£173.94 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.44 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£83.04 @ Dabs)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£56.67 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£69.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.59 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card (£103.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£43.48 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£47.99 @ Aria PC)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (£10.46 @ Aria PC)
Total: £654.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-29 15:01 GMT+0000

Parts are fine, but could go smaller board+case, and DVD needed for?
I used a much higher quality PSU too. This rig would be ready for a GTX 980.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£173.94 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.44 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£79.98 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£56.67 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£69.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.59 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card (£103.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£64.99 @ Novatech)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (£73.49 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £688.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-29 15:55 GMT+0000
 

Chitown B

Member
I use the same one, love it. Was also my first modular power supply and I agree, they're amazing.

I love that it's silent, and only uses the fan when it needs to but sparingly.

I have it pointed down at my processor so when it does function it sucks the hot air away.
 

Miang

Member
Parts are fine, but could go smaller board+case, and DVD needed for?
I used a much higher quality PSU too. This rig would be ready for a GTX 980.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£173.94 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.44 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£79.98 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£56.67 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£69.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.59 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card (£103.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£64.99 @ Novatech)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (£73.49 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £688.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-29 15:55 GMT+0000

Thanks for the ideas, for some reason didn't look at the mini cases!

That PSU is a little more expensive, I had read that XFX are good for the budget range - is it worth spending £30 or so more for a better one? I know it's not that much but I am trying to keep costs to the minimum for the moment.

I want a DVD drive for PCSX2 (ripping games and/or playing directly from disc).
 

Chitown B

Member
Parts are fine, but could go smaller board+case, and DVD needed for?
I used a much higher quality PSU too. This rig would be ready for a GTX 980.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£173.94 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£25.44 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£79.98 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£56.67 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£69.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.59 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card (£103.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£64.99 @ Novatech)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (£73.49 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £688.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-29 15:55 GMT+0000

Make sure if you get sleeve bearing fans that they will be vertical. Horizontal doesn't work for those.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thanks for the ideas, for some reason didn't look at the mini cases!

That PSU is a little more expensive, I had read that XFX are good for the budget range - is it worth spending £30 or so more for a better one? I know it's not that much but I am trying to keep costs to the minimum for the moment.

I want a DVD drive for PCSX2 (ripping games and/or playing directly from disc).

Double checked the PSU
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=225

its a very good unit, so feel free to stick with the original choice of PSU.
 

Dwalls

Neo Member
This looks very good.

I approve. You are capable of doing research of the parts that you will be getting, so you're a step ahead of most of the other people we recommend build lists for.

Thanks for the vote of confidence dudes! Trigger has been pulled, decided to wait for delivery tomorrow so I can prep up for the build. I had them toss in an anti-static wristband too, so that angle of malfunction should be covered.(how do I use that though, do I need to ground the powersupply first and place that or can I just clip onto the chassis?) Do you guys have any build guides you swear by outside of the stuff in the O.P? Furthermore do you guys think it's recommendable to do the first build outside of the case on top of the mobo box like some guides recommend or should I just jump in? Also since my girlfriend is a nurse I have an infinite supply of latex gloves, should I use those for building to avoid oil/dirt from my fingers and reduce the static buildup even further?
 

Miang

Member
Make sure if you get sleeve bearing fans that they will be vertical. Horizontal doesn't work for those.

Thanks for that. Currently googling to get my head around this lol. I think installing the heatsink will be the trickiest part for me, it looks fiddly so I want to get it right.

@LilJoka - Thanks! Think I'll save the few extra ££ for now...
 

mkenyon

Banned
Which website do you mean? GameGPU or Ocaholic? I haven't found any similar testing scenarios from TechReport, at least not for the specific question of how well the 2500K still holds up for today's games. There's this article, but it dates back to 2012.
GameGPU. Their tests are inconsistent and fly in the face of testing from numerous other sites. I get a strong whiff of poor methodology without repeated runs to deal with outliers.

Just look through TechReport's CPU reviews to get some more recent stuff. But really, almost everything is still on UE3, CryEngine, Frostbyte, or Source. So lots of old benchmarks are still very relevant. I am looking forward to some quality UE4 benches though.
I did clean and restart, but how do I fix my resolution to fill up the entire screen?
Reinstall your GPU drivers now.
 
Bit silly but I ordered a nice SuperFlower Leadex Gold 650W PSU and it arrived today.

Looks sexy but it has (I'm pretty sure) a European plug socket but I need a UK plug.

What's the best thing to do in this case, does anyone know? Would using a plug adaptor (European to UK standard) lower the efficiency of the PSU?
 

RGM79

Member
GameGPU. Their tests are inconsistent and fly in the face of testing from numerous other sites. I get a strong whiff of poor methodology without repeated runs to deal with outliers.

Just look through TechReport's CPU reviews to get some more recent stuff. But really, almost everything is still on UE3, CryEngine, Frostbyte, or Source. So lots of old benchmarks are still very relevant. I am looking forward to some quality UE4 benches though.
Alright, I'll keep that in mind. I haven't noticed any inconsistencies myself, but I haven't taken a close look at many of their results either. Some of the testing results do seem high to me, but I always just attributed that to them pairing the CPUs with a very high end GPU. Better testing methodology might be to limit graphics settings, but let's just leave it at that.

Bit silly but I ordered a nice SuperFlower Leadex Gold 650W PSU and it arrived today.

Looks sexy but it has (I'm pretty sure) a European plug socket but I need a UK plug.

What's the best thing to do in this case, does anyone know? Would using a plug adaptor (European to UK standard) lower the efficiency of the PSU?

You could get one of these cables from a PC or hardware shop. Link just for example, I have no idea if that's a trustworthy shop or not. The proper name for the end of the cable that plugs into the PSU would be C13.

I myself prefer not to deal with adaptors, you never know if there could be an issue with the adaptor.
 
You could get one of these cables from a PC or hardware shop. Link just for example, I have no idea if that's a trustworthy shop or not. The proper name for the end of the cable that plugs into the PSU would be C13.

I myself prefer not to deal with adaptors, you never know if there could be an issue with the adaptor.

Thanks for that, you've got a great knowledge on hardware!

I was planning on building it all tomorrow assuming the heatsink arrives, so I will have to nip out to PC World or a hardware store with cable in hand and ask for help with my C13 cable.

Do you think that the efficiency of the PSU is also rated on the power cable? Or would this part of the PSU not effect the efficiency? I imagine not as long as the amp/voltage rating is the same and they use just stock cables for this component of the Leadex Gold.
 

Easy_D

never left the stone age
So I need a GPU that won't ruin my budget forever, basically a stop-gap GPU until I can find myself a proper job.

So I'm thinking about getting the GTX 770, but since the 960 costs just as much (In Sweden) and is a teeny weeny bit better in benchmarks, should I just go with the newer card?
 

garath

Member
Welp. My EVGA step up dreams of FTW to FTW+ have been smashed. UPS wants $40 to ship it to CA. That plus the $10 EVGA charged me means over $50 to do a very incremental upgrade on the hope that it will eliminate the minor coil whine I have. Forget it.

I'll live with it.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Welp. My EVGA step up dreams of FTW to FTW+ have been smashed. UPS wants $40 to ship it to CA. That plus the $10 EVGA charged me means over $50 to do a very incremental upgrade on the hope that it will eliminate the minor coil whine I have. Forget it.

I'll live with it.
Tried messing with the voltage a bit?
So I need a GPU that won't ruin my budget forever, basically a stop-gap GPU until I can find myself a proper job.

So I'm thinking about getting the GTX 770, but since the 960 costs just as much (In Sweden) and is a teeny weeny bit better in benchmarks, should I just go with the newer card?
How are the prices on the R9 290 and 280x in comparison there?

But yeah, it's a toss up between the 770 and 960 from what I've seen.
 
The Corsair Air 540 is supposed to be great for airflow, but fair enough, that's a good reason. Looking at the motherboard, make sure you space out the GTX 980s by moving the second to a lower slot. It'll leave room for the fan to take in air.



Use BlueScreenView to check the minidump, if you haven't already. What are your system specs?

i52300
8GB Ram
KINGSTON SV300S37A240G SSD
and the GTX 970
650w power supply I think.
Windows 7 Home

So I didn't end up going all the way back, I went to 344.75. System was stable all day yesterday, hours of Guild Wars 2, no problems. Today it crashed again. I'll try 344.11 next. But this is my blue screen error;

*** STOP: 0x00000116 (0xfffffa800ad2a010, 0xfffff8800fbde828, 0xffffffffc000009a,
0x0000000000000004)

*** dxgkrnl.sys - Address 0xfffff88003c87134 base at 0xfffff88003c2a000 DateStamp
0x539e411c

And from the Minidump viewer, these ones were in pink;

dxgkrnl.sys dxgkrnl.sys+5d134 fffff880`03c2a000 fffff880`03d1f000 0x000f5000 0x539e411c 6/15/2014 9:28:04 PM
dxgmms1.sys dxgmms1.sys+37f3c fffff880`03d1f000 fffff880`03d65000 0x00046000 0x5164dc13 4/9/2013 11:57:15 PM
nvlddmkm.sys nvlddmkm.sys+921828 fffff880`0f2bd000 fffff880`0ff9d000 0x00ce0000 0x5463c853 11/12/2014 5:21:31 PM


dxgkrnl.sys could be anything from the google searching I've done, it could mean the card isn't compatible with my motherboard, which is odd, my 560Ti has no issues. It could have something to do with Direct X or the card itself. I tried reinstalling/getting updates for Direct X, but the installer said it had the latest files already. I might have to RMA this again, but then I don't even know. It's not like I have another motherboard just hanging around to test, and I'm not about to blow money on a new one when that might not even fix it. This is such a pain in the ass. I half just want to sell this piece of shit but I'm afraid a second RMA is actually the answer and then I've got someone fucking pissed at me that the card is failing and I'd just have to pay them back then pay again to ship the card out again.

Now the only other thing I can think of trying is formatting and reinstalling windows as I just did a straight copy paste of this install from my old hard drive to this SSD. It hasn't caused any other issues though, and like I said my 560Ti doesn't have a single problem. I've been using it for months before getting the 970 with no problems. But I might as well try it before losing my mind I guess.

I also tried memtest for hours when this first happened so my ram looks good. SSD firmware is updated. I also check temps on and off with speedfan and everything seems within reason.

Also I'll add that these crashes only happen when playing games, nothing else.
 
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