drotahorror
Member
Left click and check "Show disabled devices".
Never is listed when the HP monitor is in there. Disabled nor disconnected. I seem to have fixed it though, thanks.
Left click and check "Show disabled devices".
Is my CPU over clocked or something?
Getting 45°C-50°C just on the desktop and while I'm in game it can go as high as mid 80s.
i7 2600k
Will do.
Here's what HWInfo tells me. This is while running Sleeping Dogs Definitive Edition
Max 3.4GHz. Your CPU is not OC.
Could someone explain overclocking and voltage / power limits to me? By default, my 750 ti boosts up to 1320 MHz without a 6-pin, and GPU-Z says it's at a voltage limit. OC'ing a bit more sometimes has GPU-Z saying it's power limited too, and I think it may have led to a few DirectX error crashes too. Is it worth using the 6-pin to try to do anymore than what GPU boost already does? The core clock can't go much higher than +100 before the display driver crashes, although the memory could manage +600 or more without immediately crashing.
Task Manger seems to show it jumping around all over the place. Saw it go to 4GHz once or twice. Seems to jump between 3.1-3.8 This is only while I'm on the desktop though
Task Manger seems to show it jumping around all over the place. Saw it go to 4GHz or twice. Seems to jump between 3.1-3.8 This is only while I'm on the desktop though
Manufacturers tend to overstate power supply requirements to stay on the safe side. The R9 290 will not run up more than 300 watts by itself, the 750 watt requirement assumes worst case scenario like some kind of inefficient (AMD? Overclocked?) CPU consuming 200+ watts and a dozen hard drives or something. The 650 watt power supply is more than enough for a single R9 290. Testing by Tweaktown and Anandtech showed totally system power consumption with the R9 290 to be less than 500 watts, your PC may consume a bit more.
The Haf 912 Plus is a decent case.
Good call on that Sapphire Tri-X model, that is one of the best R9 290 models you can get.
Overall the price is a little higher than the list I recommended, but much better than the original list of parts. I looked at the selection at e-key.it, I recommend these alternative parts instead to save more money or to perform better:
I wouldn't go for that NH-C14 cooler. Noctua makes very good coolers, but the model you chose is a bit old and there are better ones. On e-key.it they have the newer and better Noctua NH-D14 for 84, the same price as the NH-C14 you chose. If you want to save some money, this Dark Rock 3 cooler is 63 but will still perform well.
This Kingston HYperX Fury RAM is only 131 and is the same speed as the one I recommended earlier from amazon.it and the one you picked from from e-key.it.
The non-modular version of the same XFX power supply is available for 81
The Cooler Master N500 case (66) is the cheapest case I can recommend.
There's a slightly cheaper version of more or less the same graphics card, just with a slightly lower clock speed. It costs 30 less.
About 100 was saved.
Are you saying that you DON'T have the 6 pin power connector attached? Because if you have one of the 750 ti's with one, you should attach it.
It's not attached :/ I guess I must have just assumed originally that the 750 ti didn't OC to the point that it would need more power than the PCI could provide. So could those DirectX crashes I had be the result of the GPU needing more power than it had access to? If I plug in the 6-pin and power limit isn't an issue, is it safe to OC as high as it can go without the display driver crashing? I'm kinda interested in how high the memory speed can get.
What card should I pick up that's going to run most games at 1080p at 60fps?
Sorry if this is an uneducated question. I'm not current with what video cards are good right now.
No more than $300.Whats your budget and the rest of your system?
The fan should be blowing air through the cooler toward the back of the case. So, front next to ram.Which side should the fan on the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO be on? Facing the back or front next to the ram?
Probably, a bad MB.I dunno where to post this situation I got but I figured maybe someone on here can help me..
I built a computer for someone (simple pc with dual core, m-itx, ssd, 8GB ram) and it wouldnt power on with a 430w power supply. I tested another power supply I had on my main computer (600W Modular) and it powered on. Cool.
Returned it to Newegg and got a replacement. It still wouldnt power on with the replacement 430W. I was perplexed but maybe the computer needed more W. I got 500, and it happened again where it wouldnt power on. i was so confused...
Today I returned that 500 and got 600W (same one from my computer but not modular (shouldnt make a difference anyway)) and when i tried to turn it on, smoke came out of the area where the power supply connects to the CPU.
Im at a loss of words as to what happened. =( I cant figure it out.
To clarify - I only had the mobo connect to the CPU, mobo and SSD. Nothing else.
Current Build:
i5 2500k not OC'd
8GB RAM
ASUS P8P67 Deluxe
660ti GTX
550ti GTX (for Physx)
I want to slowly update my PC and buy all the parts separately, but yet, still use it since I have limited space. Replacing the MOBO is going to be last so what is the first thing to buy that will give me a noticeable with frame rates? CPU or GPU? I can spend $300 for each.
Current Build:
i5 2500k not OC'd
8GB RAM
ASUS P8P67 Deluxe
660ti GTX
550ti GTX (for Physx)
I want to slowly update my PC and buy all the parts separately, but yet, still use it since I have limited space. Replacing the MOBO is going to be last so what is the first thing to buy that will give me a noticeable with frame rates? CPU or GPU? I can spend $300 for each.
Not sure if it's the right place to ask, but what would be a good asking price for a used EVGA gtx 670 ftw that is in perfect clean condition and has a stable potential OC of around 1290-1300MHz, with original box, poster, stickers, parts, etc? I am trying to sell mine and will probably pop into the BST thread .
I believe when I got mine, it came with a tube of thermal paste in the box.Did I need to get thermal paste for my cooler (Hyper 212 EVO)?
Probably, a bad MB.
You tried many PSU and it only worked with one. The MB seem flaky. And, now that's smoked / burnt, try new MB.Thats the weird thing. it powered on fine with my other power supply but not this one i got today which was essentially the same thing.
Overclock CPU to 4.4-4.5GHz and buy a new video card. Next time, OC the CPU on day one. You could have been enjoying the speed increase for 3 years now.
I have a coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo on my mobo, is there a better fan I can grab at Microcenter or is that fine? I'm headed there in a bit. What is recommended to get it safely to say....4.5GHz? I know there are methods online to overclocking with that particular Mobo since at one time (still do??) the 2500k and Asus P8P67 were the recommended combo but is there a decent cooling solution without having to resort to refrigeration? I'll do so if I must though.
I see that it has some but it could be junk.I believe when I got mine, it came with a tube of thermal paste in the box.
Oh Sandy Bridge, how I miss you.The fan that came with 212 is fine. It's just a little loud under high speeds.
To OC:
1) Set Core Voltage to 1.35V
2) Change CPU multiplier to 45 All Cores.
That's it.
Getting an issue that I'm hoping you guys can help me with.
I'm downloading windows 8.1 using the create installation media tool (on a flash drive), but every time the download finishes I get an error code saying access is denied. Anything I can do? I'm the administrator and only user.
Can u post a screengrab? Did u approve admin rights before launching the program (Popup window talking about if you want to allow access)
I'm having it go again now (I specifically ran it as administrator this time), so fingers crossed. Didn't get a popup though. Should finish in about an hour or less. I'll take a screenshot if it doesn't work
Depends on our room temps and case air flow. More important is what is the temps under full load, like when running Prime95.So I installed my Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO and it decreased the CPU temperature by about 10°C. Now I'm getting 35-40°C instead of 45-50°C which still seems way to hot. Shouldn't it be less than 30°C when just on desktop? :\
i7 2600k
Depends on our room temps and case air flow. More important is what is the temps under full load, like when running Prime95.
I have used it for mine and no issues.I see that it has some but it could be junk.
Just figured that for 20 euros I might as well future-proof myself in terms of PSU. No idea if it's V1 or V2. Can't find any indication on the box or the psu itself. (Edit: it's more than 5 years old so it's the V1. Didn't realize he had bought it so long ago).
I know 500w is fine for the gpu you recommended but the deal I'm looking at is for the OC version and 500w seems to be cutting it too close.
You're amazing
i changed the cooler/ram/power supply i sticked with the Tri-X just because the price difference was minimal and it looks like it's more quiet and gets less hot compared to the other models
I also fell in love with this case while browsing lol
It costs more but it would fit my room much better, color and all lol
Should i?
Current cheap build:
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/T9TsWZ
CPU: AMD A10-6800K 4.1GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120V 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock FM2A75M-ITX Mini ITX FM2 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Intel 510 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 270X 2GB Dual-X Video Card
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Lite-On IHBS112-04 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 (OEM) (64-bit)
Some old, some new. Looking to upgrade to i5 4690K and a z97 mITX board sometime soon. Don't need much storage since all my videos and main storage on on a Synology NAS.
Setup looks kinda like this - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlW6hw0WUpw
I see that it has some but it could be junk.
Still nothing. What in the world? Here's a pic:
Can someone recommend me unofficial tools if there are any? Or is there a trial of windows I can use then redeem my official key? I'm totally new to this.
Are you on a limited user account or something? That's really weird. Can you run through the program again, but this time choose "ISO file" instead of USB drive? That will save the ISO to a location on your computer instead. It may not make much of a difference, but you need the ISO in order to use unofficial tools to load it onto a USB drive, and this is still the best way to get the official Windows ISO, rather than using shifty download sources.
Nah, I've never had any issues like this before. I downloaded an official iso from Dreamspark before, but I didn't know what to do with it. Can you point me in the right direction for a tool?
Sounds like you should be able to just swap in the parts, no problem. Have you decided on a motherboard yet?
I got the Sennheiser HD 650 Headphones! What sound card would go together well with my headphones?