Thanks. In the bios? Or is there a switch on the board?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Thanks. In the bios? Or is there a switch on the board?
soulassssns
Banned
Yes in the Bios
Wag
Member
Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3. $270 mobo. Died 1 week outside of warranty. 😡
Anyways, I'm off to Microcenter to buy the 5820. At least it's tax free weekend. Save myself $18.
SneakyStephan
Banned
Well you suddenly turned hostile.
BossDarkseid
Member
JoeyJungle
Banned
So I'm pretty much done picking the parts for my new PC, but I was wondering if there's anything I might want to change before I order the last few pieces? I'm planning on getting the 6700k and overclocking to 4.6ghz, and I'm not planning on any water cooling (liquids near electronics makes make really uncomfortable). Does everything look good? Am I missing anything? Do I need to pick up any extra fans? Do I need a tool to spread the arctic silver on my cpu?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ydCkt6
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ydCkt6
Got the Shakes
Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($310.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($42.70 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $711.63
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-15 15:24 EDT-0400
This is what I am planning on buying and building this week (if anyone has any suggestions where I should change components I'm all ears). MicroCenter has such a good price on the 4590 right now. I could also get the i7 for $90 more. Is it worth even considering that or just stick with the 4590?
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($310.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($42.70 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $711.63
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-15 15:24 EDT-0400
This is what I am planning on buying and building this week (if anyone has any suggestions where I should change components I'm all ears). MicroCenter has such a good price on the 4590 right now. I could also get the i7 for $90 more. Is it worth even considering that or just stick with the 4590?
You're getting the same case as mine!
Probably just get an extra fan as you only get 2 with the case (1 front 1 back), leaving 1 empty slot in the front. You can move the 1 in the back to front so that they are of the same type
The case has fan controller that you can plug them into, as they're not PWM fans.
I need some advice from PC Gaf. I upgraded to Windows 10 and since have been having high ping issues when I play online. The problem are the drivers to my USB wifi adapter, they dont seem to be supported, and now I'm pretty fed up waiting for an update. So Im looking at a PCI express card for wifi instead
Is this ok for online gaming? (I mostly play BF4, Arma3 and Starcraft)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/computers/dp/B00416RTJ4
or should I get a better one?
My router is downstairs and I'm basically directly above it
Is this ok for online gaming? (I mostly play BF4, Arma3 and Starcraft)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/computers/dp/B00416RTJ4
or should I get a better one?
My router is downstairs and I'm basically directly above it
Wag
Member
Got the 5820k for $295 (minus $4 for tolls + gas). I guess it was worth it. Microcenter was a madhouse. I don't go there enough. Unique store, not another one like it. Cambridge store is staffed with MIT and Harvard students.
Unfortunately with the net they're pretty much obsolete. Only with the tax-free weekend are they sort of worth it. Some decent sales tho. I was looking at the returns and open-boxed stuff and even those were overpriced.
Unfortunately with the net they're pretty much obsolete. Only with the tax-free weekend are they sort of worth it. Some decent sales tho. I was looking at the returns and open-boxed stuff and even those were overpriced.
Shiny. I just finished building a rig with the black version of the case yesterday, oughta take some pictures too.
Okay, the Asus monitor I purchased a couple of months ago has a red stuck-pixel right in the centre of the screen. It's bloody annoying and causing me to game less on my PC because it's directly in the area I look at when playing games. It just can't be ignored. Asus' stuck-pixel policy states that I need to have five of them before I can send it off for an RMA, so I'm lumbered with it.
I will have another couple of hundred quid soon that I can begrudgingly spare for a new monitor, so as Viewsonic has a zero-tolerance policy for centre-screen stuck/dead pixels, I'm going to go for them and also make the jump to a 144hz monitor.
Is the VG2401MH model worth the cash? (Will wait for the Amazon-supplied version to come back in stock for £199.99)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NM758GE/
I will have another couple of hundred quid soon that I can begrudgingly spare for a new monitor, so as Viewsonic has a zero-tolerance policy for centre-screen stuck/dead pixels, I'm going to go for them and also make the jump to a 144hz monitor.
Is the VG2401MH model worth the cash? (Will wait for the Amazon-supplied version to come back in stock for £199.99)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NM758GE/
baphomet
Member
Can someone take a look at this and see if they know what may be causing it? I'm getting constant jitter with everything in Windows 10. This is an offscreen shot trying to show it as best as possible.
I'm running a ROG Swift at 1440p. Occasionally after restarting it will go away, but I'm not going to put up with this shit. If it's an issue with the monitor I'll be getting a refund.
https://youtu.be/z0H5BQJM66Y
I'm running a ROG Swift at 1440p. Occasionally after restarting it will go away, but I'm not going to put up with this shit. If it's an issue with the monitor I'll be getting a refund.
https://youtu.be/z0H5BQJM66Y
BossDarkseid
Member
What case do you have?
That's the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe.
Thanks. It was a bitch wiring everything to look perfect and clean, but it was worth it. The pre-done velcro ties in the back of the case really helped.
Sweet. I was originally going to get black, but figured the white would be a nice changes of pace from all my previous cases.
Plus, I'm a sucker for the white/red theme. Got the same on my Ducati and Triumph motorcycles and gear.
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe.
Wiring complete! Looks so much cleaner than my old build.
Liquid cooler is awesome. My CPU is running at the same temp as ambient.
Here is it powered up.
Just need to upgrade to Windows 10 now, then bring over all my files and reinstall the games.
Nice.
Corpsepyre
Banned
So, I just got 4 more gigs of RAM (bumping it upto 8 GB), and I'm astonished. I was really missing out. Games were stuttering like crazy, and I thought my GPU and CPU were to blame. Decided to grab more RAM just in case, and it made a LOT of difference. Glad I did.
What I want to know is, do games use more than 8 GB of RAM these days? Is it viable to upgrade memory even further if you're gaming at 1080p?
What I want to know is, do games use more than 8 GB of RAM these days? Is it viable to upgrade memory even further if you're gaming at 1080p?
baphomet
Member
Well they don't normally deliver on the weekends.
The one time I wish my package was sent USPS.
Don't say that. It's better to have the case a day later in one piece, then to have it early trashed to hell.
baphomet
Member
Then I don't see why FedEx was used. More expensive, slower, and out of the literal 100's of packages I've received, FedEx has damaged significantly than USPS or UPS.
Amazon got me my nice new Sennheiser 598s via USPS in one perfect sweet sounding piece today. So USPS 1 - FedEx 0.
Yeah the seller used FedEx. I figured they'd have used USPS when I bought it cause it was free shipping and was surprised, and saddened, to see they used FedEx. USPS is actually pretty good most of the time, I just hate their tracking software which is pretty much useless most of the time and I like to know where my shit is.
StarlordDial
Member
Welcome to the NZXT KRAKEN RACE !Wiring complete! Looks so much cleaner than my old build.
Liquid cooler is awesome. My CPU is running at the same temp as ambient.
Here is it powered up.
Just need to upgrade to Windows 10 now, then bring over all my files and reinstall the games.
Also I plan to earn money again to upgrade my mobo, cpu and gpu in the future with the bew 16nm and skylake-e hopefully ! :3
Hopefully my 5820k and 980ti will survive by then lol
Hey guys,
I have a few questions before I go out and order parts for my pc. Eventually, I'd like to game at 4K, but this build will be sort of a "run everything ultra 1080p 60 fps" for now and once gpus are good enough to satisfy my 4K needs, I want to just be able to swap out gpus and nothing else.
With that said, here are my questions:
1. I'm thinking of just going with a GTX 970. It looks super solid at 1080p and a decent price relative to other cards. The 980 TI looks so good, but I feel that's overkill for 1080p/60 and doesn't have quite enough juice for 4k. Am I wrong about that?
2. If I go with the 970, are there 970s I should avoid? Are there 970s I should specifically want?
3. Should I get DDR3 or DDR4 ram? I'd rather just go cheaper with DDR3 if it has little to no impact on gaming.
4. I'm contemplating between the only two skylakes (6600 and 6700) and I figure the stock 6600 is more than sufficient to run games on the cpu side at 60 fps. And if I ever need more juice, I could just OC it pretty easily. Am I right about that?
5. Anything else I should keep in mind?
Thanks!
I have a few questions before I go out and order parts for my pc. Eventually, I'd like to game at 4K, but this build will be sort of a "run everything ultra 1080p 60 fps" for now and once gpus are good enough to satisfy my 4K needs, I want to just be able to swap out gpus and nothing else.
With that said, here are my questions:
1. I'm thinking of just going with a GTX 970. It looks super solid at 1080p and a decent price relative to other cards. The 980 TI looks so good, but I feel that's overkill for 1080p/60 and doesn't have quite enough juice for 4k. Am I wrong about that?
2. If I go with the 970, are there 970s I should avoid? Are there 970s I should specifically want?
3. Should I get DDR3 or DDR4 ram? I'd rather just go cheaper with DDR3 if it has little to no impact on gaming.
4. I'm contemplating between the only two skylakes (6600 and 6700) and I figure the stock 6600 is more than sufficient to run games on the cpu side at 60 fps. And if I ever need more juice, I could just OC it pretty easily. Am I right about that?
5. Anything else I should keep in mind?
Thanks!
Okay, I added the Skylakes to Enthusiast. Right now I'm not really seeing the point even for the 1k build as it's a good chunk of money that isn't getting you much. Should change after DDR4 comes down a bit and the $120 Z170 boards offer a bit more than what they do now (Cheapest onboard audio and Realtek NICs). If you want USB 3.1 some of the Z97 mobos have it or buy an adapter card.
Also added some quick notes to the top of OP about Skylake. Oh, and removed GTX960.
Motherboard dictates. DDR3L actually seems to perform slightly better in more games according to one site (AT I think). Not a big deal.
FPS is a bad metric! Look up some frame time articles. More CPU Speed/Power = a smoother experience by smoothing your low bumps. Faster it is the smoother it will be and the feel won't be reflected in FPS numbers. So OC when you get it.
Also added some quick notes to the top of OP about Skylake. Oh, and removed GTX960.
Looks like a good build. HS comes with paste. Just blob the paste. I'd use what comes with the HS over AS5.
Looks like a nice ITX build for the cost, depends what you plan to do with it really. For legs, a 4790K will go a long way. You'll want 2x4GB of RAM or keep the 1x8GB if you plan to upgrade later. I'd also swap the Seagate to a WD Blue, but that's personal pref.
I just use the $14 TP-Link ones, *shrug*
The text/resolution keeps adjusting? Might try asking an owner thread on GAF or on Overclock.net
4 -> 8GB is a good bump for sure. Games won't, but you have background stuff + OS.
970 = Gigabyte G1, it's what I picked up to tide over until some sweet sweet HBM2 trickle down next year.
Motherboard dictates. DDR3L actually seems to perform slightly better in more games according to one site (AT I think). Not a big deal.
FPS is a bad metric! Look up some frame time articles. More CPU Speed/Power = a smoother experience by smoothing your low bumps. Faster it is the smoother it will be and the feel won't be reflected in FPS numbers. So OC when you get it.
I should have actually phrased my question about CPU better! Would you recommend going for the 6600 and OC it or spend more on a 6700?
Might as well get the 6700K if you can find it since CPUs last like 6 years now.
Fixed the memory issue. Manually increased the frequency and timings instead of using the XMP profile.
Also, got a super easy 4.5Ghz overclock going at 1.25v. Might test to see if I can lower the voltage even more. Didn't try to raise the OC any higher because I figure I will have to put in more voltage for minimum performance gains. Rather keep the PC cool and quite.
What are some CPU intensive games I can try out on this PC?
I just tried The Witcher 3 and it's running a hell of a lot smoother now than it did on my 2500k@4.7Ghz, especially in dense towns.
Also, got a super easy 4.5Ghz overclock going at 1.25v. Might test to see if I can lower the voltage even more. Didn't try to raise the OC any higher because I figure I will have to put in more voltage for minimum performance gains. Rather keep the PC cool and quite.
What are some CPU intensive games I can try out on this PC?
I just tried The Witcher 3 and it's running a hell of a lot smoother now than it did on my 2500k@4.7Ghz, especially in dense towns.
For black and white parts, MSI offers their Krait designs like the Z97S Krait SLI and a black and white GTX 970. That black and white GTX 970 does not have the much better Twin Frozr cooler that your GTX 970 has, though. What are your current specs?
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Looking at GPU prices in Canada is always a bummer. My 670 is starting to feel a bit old and I was looking at a possible 970 upgrade and it's never under 400$.
Sigh ¯\_(ツ
It would probably be like a hundred cheaper if it wasn't for our falling dollar.
i was looking at that asusz97 sabertooth MB the camo one. but they want 350 for it -___-
i was looking at that asusz97 sabertooth MB the camo one. but they want 350 for it -___-
Are you prepared to pay a lot of money?
If you want a Z97 motherboard, you'll also need a new processor to go along with it. I don't recommend upgrading just for looks.
i want a unlocked CPU to future proof my PC a lil bit more, im getting a i5- 4690K bundlded with a motherboard. also on the MSI MB u linked me to i see theres like a white MSI cover for the I/O ports .
but on the other pics it doesnt show that white I/O cover. do you know if it comes with that MB?
No, it doesn't come with that. That picture is taken from a custom PC modder's build, I assume he made that cover himself along with the MSI badges and decals on the front and PSU bay cover.
thank you, you have been very helpful whenever i get everything and put it together ill update the thread .
Since you did the upgrade and Windows 10 is activated, you can use a drive cloning program and follow a guide like this to move everything over to the new SSD, or just do a clean install of Windows 10 which will automatically activate itself (follow the guide, you can just skip any prompts to enter a product key).
NeonDelta
Member
Brilliant, thanks for that, will give it a go
Deaf Spacker
Memb
I may have made a school boy error, can anybody confirm? I currently have two 680 Classifieds in SLI, they use two 8 pin connectors each. The 980 Superclocked needs two 6 pins, will I be okay? My PSU is a Corsair AX860.
I'm planning to add another 980 to the setup soon too.
Not a problem.
You should be fine. Take a careful look at those 8-pins, and you should see that they split into 6-pins, like so:
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