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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Wag

Member
Out of curiosity, how are your video cards ordered? As in, which slot is the overheating one in?

I'm pretty sure it's the bottom card that's overheating. But I rearranged the card. Before it was in the middle. It doesn't seem to matter. One always overheats regardless of where it was. When I had poor airflow before (lots of cables inside the case) one card was in the 60s, the other was in the 70's or so and one card was always maxing out.

I don't think that had anything to do with my crashing problem tho, because when I removed the 3rd card I was rock solid. The HCP-1300 just couldn't handle the load. I'll have to play some Witcher 3 maxed out on the Evga G2 1300 and see how it does.

System has never been good ever since I added the 3rd card- in fact once I added the 3rd 980Ti to my Ivy Bridge setup my mobo died. Probably not a coincidence.

Oh, and damn the G2 1300 is noisy. I don't know if I can put up with it. It's the only thing I hear from my setup when idling.
 

RGM79

Member
Installed the EVGA 1300 G2, and it seems to be OK. I have to do some more testing. One thing I noticed is the fan is kind of loud compared to the antec HCP-1300, which was virtually silent. The 1300 G2 makes a loud audible electrical "whir". Very annoying. I don't know if exchanging it will solve the problem.

Anyways, I seem to have a bad 980Ti. When I installed the new 1300 G2, I fixed up the air-flow in my case. I noticed with all 3 980Tis installed now, 2 of them are only 33C and 44C when running Haven @ 4k maxed out, and one of them always hits 84C when limited, or if I take the limiter off it easily hits 91C. That's even with all 3 fans running @ 100%. I figured I had a bad one, that pretty much confirms it now. I'll have to RMA it.

Electrical noise? Maybe it's coil whine.
 
I have a Optiplex 755 Small Form Factor(not the ultra small version) PC with a Intel Core 2 Quad Q6700, 8GB DDR2 and I'm not sure what power supply, but it's whatever that came with the unit. I'm looking for the best low-wattage(due to power supply) and single slot low-profile video card that does not have a huge heatsink. GPU is currently integrated Intel, which is AWFUL for gaming. but fine enough for watching HD videos.

I know I need to get entirely different PC to fully experience PC gaming, but I build up a small list of Steam games for the past few years and I want to try it out.
 

RGM79

Member
I have a Optiplex 755 Small Form Factor(not the ultra small version) PC with a Intel Core 2 Quad Q6700, 8GB DDR2 and I'm not sure what power supply, but it's whatever that came with the unit. I'm looking for the best low-wattage(due to power supply) and single slot low-profile video card that does not have a huge heatsink. GPU is currently integrated Intel, which is AWFUL for gaming. but fine enough for watching HD videos.

I know I need to get entirely different PC to fully experience PC gaming, but I build up a small list of Steam games for the past few years and I want to try it out.
You mean your Optiplex 755 is one of the two in the middle of this picture, right? The ones I've dealt with at work have power supplies in the 200~280 watt range which is more than enough for a GTX 750 Ti.

MSI and Gigabyte make half height GTX 750 Ti cards, but both aren't single slot designs. The MSI model has a one slot wide bracket but the cooler is wide enough to take up a second slot, while the Gigabyte model has a two slot wide design. The interior of the 755 should have more than enough space to accommodate wide coolers. The MSI model should fit easily, while the Gigabyte model can fit if you disassemble the plate for the video connectors.

As far as I know there aren't any low profile or half height GTX 960 cards, and if for some reason you absolutely need a thin single slot card you'll have to look for weaker graphics cards like this Sapphire R7 240. It is both low profile and single slot, but only has two HDMI connectors. You may need a HDMI adaptor if your monitor doesn't have HDMI.
 
You mean your Optiplex 755 is one of the two in the middle of this picture, right? The ones I've dealt with at work have power supplies in the 200~280 watt range which is more than enough for a GTX 750 Ti.

MSI and Gigabyte make half height GTX 750 Ti cards, but both aren't single slot designs. The MSI model has a one slot wide bracket but the cooler is wide enough to take up a second slot, while the Gigabyte model has a two slot wide design. The interior of the 755 should have more than enough space to accommodate wide coolers. The MSI model should fit easily, while the Gigabyte model can fit if you disassemble the plate for the video connectors.

As far as I know there aren't any low profile or half height GTX 960 cards, and if for some reason you absolutely need a thin single slot card you'll have to look for weaker graphics cards like this Sapphire R7 240. It is both low profile and single slot, but only has two HDMI connectors. You may need a HDMI adaptor if your monitor doesn't have HDMI.

My Optiplex 755 is the second one in the picture with a wattage of 275. Is the 750ti the max GPU I can put in here? Honestly, that is a lot better than I was expecting since I was reading the the AMD 7750 was the strongest.

In the picture of the 755 interior in your post, that's the desktop version of the 755, which is a little bigger than the SFF. Would the 750 still fit inside the SFF, even though the Desktop version is bigger? Please note that I'm new to PC gaming, so I'm really not knowledgeable when it comes to GPUs.
 

knitoe

Member
I'm pretty sure it's the bottom card that's overheating. But I rearranged the card. Before it was in the middle. It doesn't seem to matter. One always overheats regardless of where it was. When I had poor airflow before (lots of cables inside the case) one card was in the 60s, the other was in the 70's or so and one card was always maxing out.

I don't think that had anything to do with my crashing problem tho, because when I removed the 3rd card I was rock solid. The HCP-1300 just couldn't handle the load. I'll have to play some Witcher 3 maxed out on the Evga G2 1300 and see how it does.

System has never been good ever since I added the 3rd card- in fact once I added the 3rd 980Ti to my Ivy Bridge setup my mobo died. Probably not a coincidence.

Oh, and damn the G2 1300 is noisy. I don't know if I can put up with it. It's the only thing I hear from my setup when idling.

I have the same PSU and can never hear it, but I am only running a 5930K@4.5 and SLI Titans (stock power +200 core & +200 memory) plus 4 SSDs and 3 HDD. From my battery backup PSU display, everything plugged into it is only using around 700W while running Witcher 3. Maybe, the fan on your PSU is bad.
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Hey guys, I'm concerned about my CPU temps.

For a while now my fans have been running very loud, even in sleep mode. The issue is definitely greater after I play games. So I decided to install HWMonitor, and my CPU (i3-2100) runs at about 45-50 degrees Celsius at idle. I ran Battlefield 3 for a bit, and my temps went up to 85-freaking degrees. My GPU didn't go above 56-degrees.

The last time I applied any thermal paste was four years ago. Could that be the culprit?
 
Hey guys, I'm concerned about my CPU temps.

For a while now my fans have been running very loud, even in sleep mode. The issue is definitely greater after I play games. So I decided to install HWMonitor, and my CPU (i3-2100) runs at about 45-50 degrees Celsius at idle. I ran Battlefield 3 for a bit, and my temps went up to 85-freaking degrees. My GPU didn't go above 56-degrees.

The last time I applied any thermal paste was four years ago. Could that be the culprit?

Take a look inside your case, clear out the fans with some compressed air and make sure there isn't a cable somewhere hitting a fan blade. 85C is actually not horrific, though I tend to keep mine sub-80. Are you using the stock cooler?

I would try to figure out what's being noisy. Could be the fan on your video card or something. You could try popping the side panel off while it's running and seeing if you can tell by ear what it is.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hey guys, I'm concerned about my CPU temps.

For a while now my fans have been running very loud, even in sleep mode. The issue is definitely greater after I play games. So I decided to install HWMonitor, and my CPU (i3-2100) runs at about 45-50 degrees Celsius at idle. I ran Battlefield 3 for a bit, and my temps went up to 85-freaking degrees. My GPU didn't go above 56-degrees.

The last time I applied any thermal paste was four years ago. Could that be the culprit?
Usually has to do with blowing out dust first. But a reapplication and a remount wouldn't be a bad idea.
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Yeah, my case is pretty dusty. All I'll need to clear the dust is compressed air? If so, I'll try that first.

I would try to figure out what's being noisy. Could be the fan on your video card or something. You could try popping the side panel off while it's running and seeing if you can tell by ear what it is

Definitely seems to be the stock cooler.
 

Wag

Member
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_1300/6.html

The fan profile is quite relaxed at even over 40°C ambient, but the fan is a speed and noise demon, especially at higher RPMs, yet you can't expect a 1.3 kW unit to be quiet once stressed. Its efficiency would have to be 99% to do so, and we have a very long road ahead of us until we reach that point.

If I'm going to RMA the PS I'll be better off just returning it to Newegg. I used Shoprunner so I get free return shipping. But I honestly don't think it'll help. Every review I've read said the G2 1300 is very loud.

I played Witcher 3 for approx 30mins with all 3 980Ti's overclocked. No problems (except for the 3rd card overheating). No crashing, everything rock solid. Don't buy an Antec HCP-1300, POS PS.
 

RGM79

Member
My Optiplex 755 is the second one in the picture with a wattage of 275. Is the 750ti the max GPU I can put in here? Honestly, that is a lot better than I was expecting since I was reading the the AMD 7750 was the strongest.

In the picture of the 755 interior in your post, that's the desktop version of the 755, which is a little bigger than the SFF. Would the 750 still fit inside the SFF, even though the Desktop version is bigger? Please note that I'm new to PC gaming, so I'm really not knowledgeable when it comes the GPUs.
48YMh0Ul.jpg

Ah, now I know exactly why you need a single slot card. The hard drive caddy is in the way. Sorry about the mixup, I was assuming (or hoping) you had the desktop model of the Optiplex 755.

I wouldn't recommend the HD7750 these days. New HD7750 cards are ridiculously expensive and limited to 1GB of VRAM unless you're gonna pay $200+ for the 2GB variant. Not that you'll be playing at particularly high settings, but newer cards like the R7 250 come in 2GB versions for a much lower price and should perform very similarly.
 
Does anyone here have a Xeon CPU in your rig?

I'm going to be ordering a Xeon E3-1231 here soon (sometime this week) to replace my i3-4160, so I'm pretty excited about it. From what I can gather, it's basically an i7-4770 only it costs about $50 less. I'm assuming it'll blow this i3-4160 out of the water in all-around performance.

The reason I'm doing the upgrade is because the i3-4160, though a serviceable little dual core CPU, has been struggling mightily with recent games like Fallout 4 and even GTA V.

My GPU is an R9 270X, so that'll be my next upgrade. I think it'll suffice over the next few months, though.
 
48YMh0Ul.jpg

Ah, now I know exactly why you need a single slot card. The hard drive caddy is in the way. Sorry about the mixup, I was assuming (or hoping) you had the desktop model of the Optiplex 755.

I wouldn't recommend the HD7750 these days. New HD7750 cards are ridiculously expensive and limited to 1GB of VRAM unless you're gonna pay $200+ for the 2GB variant. Not that you'll be playing at particularly high settings, but newer cards like the R7 250 come in 2GB versions for a much lower price and should perform very similarly.

I really appreciate the info you have given me. I'm going to order the R7 250 soon and see if I like PC gaming :)
 
It's pretty safe to clone to a new SSD. You're literally making a copy, so no files will be lost. Just don't format your old drive until you're sure the new SSD works fine. Follow a guide like this and you'll be fine.

I've used Macrium Reflect free edition (the software mentioned in that guide) and I've had no issues transferring OS to a new storage device. It's pretty much flawless, nothing in Windows was broken or even changed. The computer doesn't care what storage device it is, as long as all of the important files and partitions are there. Just make sure to clone over the entire disk including all partitions (the tiny system partitions), not just the one containing Windows.

Update. It worked! It's crazy that I didn't have to change boot up drive in bios or anything. Just cloned it (and extended the main partition on the new drive) and done.
Thanks again!

Edit: except after about 30 minutes a loud fan-like noise was on and it lasted for about 10 minutes before turning off, pretty weird.

I shut down my computer now and I'll have to monitor that in the morning. One of my PC fans did that the other day but it was permanent and I had to unplug it completely to make it stop. Hopefully it's just another fan but weird how it didn't happen for a while and it stopped shortly after.
 

Randam

Member
Is there a thread for pc problems somewhere here on GAF?

Mic doesn't get recognized from steam.
It works under device, I see my voice, but it won't work in steam or in-game.
 

RGM79

Member
Is there a thread for pc problems somewhere here on GAF?

Mic doesn't get recognized from steam.
It works under device, I see my voice, but it won't work in steam or in-game.

Have you checked audio options in Skype settings? Whatever game you're playing may also have its own audio settings.

Update. It worked! It's crazy that I didn't have to change boot up drive in bios or anything. Just cloned it (and extended the main partition on the new drive) and done.
Thanks again!

Edit: except after about 30 minutes a loud fan-like noise was on and it lasted for about 10 minutes before turning off, pretty weird.

I shut down my computer now and I'll have to monitor that in the morning. One of my PC fans did that the other day but it was permanent and I had to unplug it completely to make it stop. Hopefully it's just another fan but weird how it didn't happen for a while and it stopped shortly after.

Hmm, no idea what that could be. If I were to guess, it shouldn't have had anything to do with the disk cloning. You can check fan speeds using a program like HWMonitor or if your motherboard manufacturer includes an app for that like Asus Fan Xpert.
 
Hopefully this is a good place to ask this, I apologize if it's not.

I have a HTPC server that I've been thinking about putting a video card in to do some gaming with to supplement my itch for a PS4/Xbone.

The specs on it are:
Intel Core i5 3570K
ASRock H77M LGA 1155 Micro ATX
G.SKill 2x2GB DDR3 1600
SeaSonic 380W ATX
nMEDIAPC HTPC 500B Micro ATX case

I'm not looking to break bank on this as I'm mostly looking to play stuff like Cuphead, Axiom Verge, etc.
 
Have you checked audio options in Skype settings? Whatever game you're playing may also have its own audio settings.



Hmm, no idea what that could be. If I were to guess, it shouldn't have had anything to do with the disk cloning. You can check fan speeds using a program like HWMonitor or if your motherboard manufacturer includes an app for that like Asus Fan Xpert.

I don't think it has anything to do with cloning either. It's just weird that it started after a while and then stopped. Have you heard of SSDs making noises? It is the 840 EVO, which is supposedly pretty crappy. I haven't updated the firmware yet either.
 

RGM79

Member
I don't think it has anything to do with cloning either. It's just weird that it started after a while and then stopped. Have you heard of SSDs making noises? It is the 840 EVO, which is supposedly pretty crappy. I haven't updated the firmware yet either.

Performance-wise the 840 Evo is supposed to be fine, it does have an issue where it loses performance in a fairly specific but also common situation. The latest fix for the 840 Evo should solve the issue, and I'd recommend that you apply it as it's better than doing nothing at all.

And no, SSDs aren't supposed to make any noise at all, there are no moving parts in an SSD.

Hopefully this is a good place to ask this, I apologize if it's not.

I have a HTPC server that I've been thinking about putting a video card in to do some gaming with to supplement my itch for a PS4/Xbone.

The specs on it are:
Intel Core i5 3570K
ASRock H77M LGA 1155 Micro ATX
G.SKill 2x2GB DDR3 1600
SeaSonic 380W ATX
nMEDIAPC HTPC 500B Micro ATX case

I'm not looking to break bank on this as I'm mostly looking to play stuff like Cuphead, Axiom Verge, etc.

How much money are you thinking of spending? As long as you're not overclocking, I'd recommend looking for Nvidia graphics cards as strong as a GTX 960. While a 500 watt PSU is generally recommended for one of those graphics cards, you shouldn't have any issues running a GTX 960 on your 380 watt PSU as they consume around just 120 watts of power.

Then again, you only seem to be interested in 2D indie games and both of the ones you mentioned have fairly low requirements, you should already be able to play them on your PC's integrated graphics. To get a better idea of what to recommend you, what would be the most intensive or recent game you would play?

If there was one definite thing to suggest, you could add another 4GB or 8GB of RAM. Only 4GB of RAM is a bit limiting these days, and DDR3 is pretty cheap (expect to spend $30~35 for an extra 4GB of RAM).

I just ordered a GIGABYTE GA-Z170XP-SLI for $125 CAD, hopefully it's a decent board.

Now waiting for i5-6600k to go on sale ;_;

That's an amazing price. Where did you find that deal? Cheapest Canadian price I can find is $150 if I pricematch Newegg via Memory Express.
 
How much money are you thinking of spending? As long as you're not overclocking, I'd recommend looking for Nvidia graphics cards as strong as a GTX 960. While a 500 watt PSU is generally recommended for one of those graphics cards, you shouldn't have any issues running a GTX 960 on your 380 watt PSU as they consume around just 120 watts of power.

Then again, you only seem to be interested in 2D indie games and both of the ones you mentioned have fairly low requirements, you should already be able to play them on your PC's integrated graphics. To get a better idea of what to recommend you, what would be the most intensive or recent game you would play?

If there was one definite thing to suggest, you could add another 4GB or 8GB of RAM. Only 4GB of RAM is a bit limiting these days, and DDR3 is pretty cheap (expect to spend $30~35 for an extra 4GB of RAM).

I have the PC already so spending $100 - $150 isn't totally unreasonable for me. I realize the RAM is lower and increasing it wont be that big of a deal. This PC was built for Plex/HTPC first hence the lower ram. As for game intensity the games I'd consider picking up a PS4 are No Man's Sky, Battlefront, etc. That kind of stuff.

This isn't a definite, just exploring options available since most of my gaming right now is on WiiU & 3DS. So I'm trying to consider supplementing that.
 
That's an amazing price. Where did you find that deal? Cheapest Canadian price I can find is $150 if I pricematch Newegg via Memory Express.

It's newegg. But they also offer 10% off code, plus another $15 rebate, so I ended up ordering through them instead of PM with ME.
 

RGM79

Member
I have the PC already so spending $100 - $150 isn't totally unreasonable for me. I realize the RAM is lower and increasing it wont be that big of a deal. This PC was built for Plex/HTPC first hence the lower ram. As for game intensity the games I'd consider picking up a PS4 are No Man's Sky, Battlefront, etc. That kind of stuff.

This isn't a definite, just exploring options available since most of my gaming right now is on WiiU & 3DS. So I'm trying to consider supplementing that.

Sounds like a GTX 950 is perfect for you. Excellent low power consumption, and it meets Battlefront's PC requirements. No Man's Sky doesn't have definite PC requirements announced yet, but I'd expect it to run fine on that GPU. I dunno when you plan to buy, but this EVGA model is the cheapest one available at $137. That plus ~$35 for an extra 4GB of RAM might be a bit over your price range, though.
 
Is there still no ShopRunner shipping for Newegg? Or only for some items..

Performance-wise the 840 Evo is supposed to be fine, it does have an issue where it loses performance in a fairly specific but also common situation. The latest fix for the 840 Evo should solve the issue, and I'd recommend that you apply it as it's better than doing nothing at all.

And no, SSDs aren't supposed to make any noise at all, there are no moving parts in an SSD.

Ok cool, thanks! I think I'm just going to replace all of the fans. They're all a little over 4 years old.
 
Sounds like a GTX 950 is perfect for you. Excellent low power consumption, and it meets Battlefront's PC requirements. No Man's Sky doesn't have definite PC requirements announced yet, but I'd expect it to run fine on that GPU. I dunno when you plan to buy, but this EVGA model is the cheapest one available at $137. That plus ~$35 for an extra 4GB of RAM might be a bit over your price range, though.

$172 is still cheaper than $400

Thanks!
 
Is there a thread for pc problems somewhere here on GAF?

Mic doesn't get recognized from steam.
It works under device, I see my voice, but it won't work in steam or in-game.

Do you have GeForce Experience installed? I had a similar problem and I had to remove my video drivers and reinstall them and that fixed it.
 

Skii

Member
Looks fine. If you're gonna reinstall Windows anyway, you can just delete or format the partitions from the Windows installer. Otherwise that link will work for you.

Just boot the Windows 10 ISO and format the drive before proceeding to install.

Okay thanks for the advice. Just going to make myself a USB with the Windows 10 installer now and will get that up and running.
 

RGM79

Member
It's newegg. But they also offer 10% off code, plus another $15 rebate, so I ended up ordering through them instead of PM with ME.

Oh. I think I see how you arrived at that price. I'm in BC, and I have to pay 12% tax. For me it costs more in total, $155 plus tax and $10 shipping minus $15.50 is $167.41. And then the $15 MIR brings that down to $152.41.

If I order from Memory Express, I pay $150.49 plus tax after pricematching, which is $168.55. There's a $10 mail in rebate which brings it down to $158.55. It's ~$6 cheaper if I buy from Newegg, but I have to wait whereas I could pop down to Memory Express and pick it up myself any day..

Hmm, the Newegg deal ends on the 22nd. Alright, I have a plan. I get back my Asus Z170 motherboard in two days, if it still fails to work then I'll buy the Gigabyte motherboard to replace it.
 
Oh. I think I see how you arrived at that price. I'm in BC, and I have to pay 12% tax. For me it costs more in total, $155 plus tax and $10 shipping minus $15.50 is $167.41. And then the $15 MIR brings that down to $152.41.

If I order from Memory Express, I pay $150.49 plus tax after pricematching, which is $168.55. There's a $10 mail in rebate which brings it down to $158.55. It's ~$6 cheaper if I buy from Newegg, but I have to wait whereas I could pop down to Memory Express and pick it up myself any day..

Hmm, the Newegg deal ends on the 22nd. Alright, I have a plan. I get back my Asus Z170 motherboard in two days, if it still fails to work then I'll buy the Gigabyte motherboard to replace it.

Well I did the calculation before tax. If tax, shipping and rebate are included then overall I will pay $170.21 if I order from ME or $153.91 if from newegg.
 

Randam

Member
Have you checked audio options in Skype settings? Whatever game you're playing may also have its own audio settings.
skype? I don't use skype.
checked the black ops 3 options.
but when the mic isn't reconized in steam itself, it won't work anyways with bo3, would it?
Do you have GeForce Experience installed? I had a similar problem and I had to remove my video drivers and reinstall them and that fixed it.

amd user.
 

Skii

Member
Just using the media creation tool and it asked me whether I wanted Windows 10 or Windows 10 n... Can't remember what I picked last time. My current installation is Windows 10 Pro.
 

RGM79

Member
skype? I don't use skype.
checked the black ops 3 options.
but when the mic isn't reconized in steam itself, it won't work anyways with bo3, would it?

Sorry, brainfart. I meant Steam when I typed Skype.

If the microphone isn't recognized, then you need to check device manager and install the latest drivers for your audio chipset.
 

RGM79

Member
Bit confused at what I need to do at this screen. Do I partition all drives? thanks

You can delete all of the partitions. Then install Windows to the drive. It'll automatically do all of the required partitioning for a new install.
 

Skii

Member
You can delete all of the partitions. Then install Windows to the drive. It'll automatically do all of the required partitioning for a new install.

well I just partitioned all of the drives that it allowed me to partition. Has that messed things up or is that okay? I'm already up and running again lol.
 

RGM79

Member
well I just partitioned all of the drives that it allowed me to partition. Has that messed things up or is that okay? I'm already up and running again lol.

It's probably fine. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like you have a 1TB HDD and a 250GB SSD. You're installing Windows to the SSD, so that was the one you needed to partition.
 

Skii

Member
It's probably fine. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like you have a 1TB HDD and a 250GB SSD. You're installing Windows to the SSD, so that was the one you needed to partition.

Yeah I partitioned both as I'm trying to eradicate anything on my system that was causing the DPC latency.

EDIT: Okay so I have latencymon installed and the signs aren't looking good with it running. It's never got in the red but there is already the same warning that I used to get regarding my network driver and me changing my CPU throttling settings.

I'm going to install The Witcher 3 first so I can properly stress the PC to reproduce to cracking and then I'll start fiddling with the drivers.
 
I'm using Samsung Magician to update my SSD firmware and it said to shutdown via the Magician's pop-up button and I did... So usually a computer restarts but in this case I have to manually start my computer to continue the update? I hope...

Edit ok phew. That did it.
 
I've got a new motherboard and case but mouse and keyboard won't work in Windows 7. They work fine in the BIOS and I'm able to press F8 during bootup to get the menu but they don't respond at all in Windows 7, safe mode or in Windows repair. The light on my keyboard stays on throughout suggesting that the m+k are always getting power. Any ideas what to do next guys?
 
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