Even though they're both rated for 3000MHz? But no, unfortunately it's not the OC, since my computer was doing this before I raised the speed.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Even though they're both rated for 3000MHz? But no, unfortunately it's not the OC, since my computer was doing this before I raised the speed.
CoachKevin
Member
Wanted to quickly thank everyone who helped me with my build in this thread. Got my machine built and running last night.
i5/GTX 970/16GB Ram/500GB SSD/Bluray Burner
Runs Fallout 4 at Ultra settings with max resolution at 60fps. Also a beast for editing video with Premiere. Super fast.
Thanks again!
i5/GTX 970/16GB Ram/500GB SSD/Bluray Burner
Runs Fallout 4 at Ultra settings with max resolution at 60fps. Also a beast for editing video with Premiere. Super fast.
Thanks again!
awesomebro
Member
So I finally figured out why I want getting a display when the cable was connected to the video card (card wasn't seated well). Thanks guys. Also finished my build successfully.
But another problem: the video card (Sapphire R9 390) is not showing up in the devices. Display device shows up as Intel HD graphics even though the HDMI cable is plugged into the video card.
But another problem: the video card (Sapphire R9 390) is not showing up in the devices. Display device shows up as Intel HD graphics even though the HDMI cable is plugged into the video card.
opticalmace
Member
Have you installed the drivers? If not, grab them from amd.com.
The Lamonster
Member
Stupid question here. What are best practices to unplug a monitor? Does it matter if I remove the cable at the PC or at the monitor? Should I do it while the power is off?
If I disconnect a monitor from a running PC and then plug it back in later while the PC is running, will it just turn back on with no fuss? Or should I do this while the PC is off?
If I disconnect a monitor from a running PC and then plug it back in later while the PC is running, will it just turn back on with no fuss? Or should I do this while the PC is off?
opticalmace
Member
Doesn't matter, it's like unplugging an HDMI cable from your TV.
Because you also overclock the Intel memory controller on the CPU when running above 1866mhz.
But as you say, likely dead ram.
DOT DASH DOT
Member
Ok so I've just bought a 980ti for 4K gaming, and you hear a lot of talk about locking to 60 or 30 fps....what I wanna know is, if there is anything wrong with locking a frame rate with Riva tuner or whatever at 40/45 or even 50fps? I basically want to hold as high as a frame rate as I can at 4K...for example Fallout 4 runs at an average of 46 fps, so surely locking at 40 is an option?
Wowfunhappy
Member
The problem is that you'll get frame judder. Your monitor is 60hz (unless it states otherwise) which means it outputs 60 images every second. So you want the amount of frames your computer produces to be divisible by 60, eg: 60fps, 30fps, 20fps, etc.
DOT DASH DOT
Member
It's a Samsung JS9000 TV, I'm not sure if it operates at 120hz, it's not selectable through Nvidia control panel though...
opticalmace
Member
It's 60Hz. You should set riva tuner's cap at 60 fps (unless you're getting really low framerates, in which case you might want to consider 30 for consistency).
HDMI 2.0 can only do 4K at 60FPS, most likely your TV uses motion smoothing for the appearance of a higher framerate
DOT DASH DOT
Member
I'll give it a shot, I think dropping god rays a level or so will manage 50fps, be a shame to cap at 30.
I just wasn't sure how the 120hz panel worked, but like you say it can only manage 4K/60. I know Sony added in a native 1080p/120hz setting for some TV's.
Okay thank you. So just move my documents onto a USB and move it back once everything is back up and running?
So will the code I used for my initial Windows 10 installation still work if I re-enter it or do I need to go through a few hoops? Don't really know how easy this'll be.
Just copy the my documents folder to another drive. And copy it back after done installing Windows.
You shouldn't need to enter a key on reinstall, it should auto activate by hardware id check.
Upon reinstall only install these drivers
Chipset
Intel Management Engine
Check DPC
Now install one at a time and check dpc each time
GPU
WLAN
LAN
USB 3.0
Rice-Eater
Member
Recently I got a Asrock z170 pro4, I5 6500, and 8GB DDR4. Is that good enough or should I return the 6500 for a 6600k? I'm also wondering if I should get a GTX 960 or wait until next year? I don't really game on PC or much at all nowadays. But I'm really looking forward to getting one of the VR headsets and want to make sure my PC is capable of running it. Any advice on what I still need or what I should send back for a replacement while I still can?
VR is still pretty far away, it's recommended to get a GTX 970, so you may want to reconsider your purchase if your not using the PC much currently.
The CPU should be fine but it's always nice to get the K chip so you can overclock down the line.
GTX 960 imo won't cut it for VR unless you are rally happy turning the setting down to get higher fps.
awesomebro
Member
Worked like a charm! Thank you all. I'm officially a gaming pc owner. Where can I get the best free benchmarking tools and if anyone knows where to get my premium edition for cheap, hook me up!
Is there a way to install specific drivers? I don't remember doing that last time I installed Windows 10. I think it did it automatically.
You could do it without Internet connection maybe. Just grab the drivers before you format onto usb stick. But yeah you will just need to be aware of whatever is installed automatically, possibly GPU driver and USB 3 driver. Just check device manager. But still get them from the motherboard site and install over whatever is already installed.
opticalmace
Member
Glad to hear it. You could try the trial version of 3dmark on Steam. That'll give you some good numbers for comparison.
About the 6500 vs 6600K, what's the difference in cost? I would lean towards the K, but if it's inconvenient/expensive for you it might not be worth it. Keep in mind the 6600K doesn't come with a cooler, either.
What video card do you have right now? I wouldn't buy a card right now with VR in mind, because what's needed and available might change next year. Also keep in mind that VR is demanding. The 960 wouldn't be sufficient for that purpose anyway.
Would deleting any unwanted drivers still be fine or would the damage be done if they were installed once? Because I was thinking just to do it normally but delete the specific drivers you mentioned and reinstall them using the motherboard's website until DPC latency is introduced again into my system.
The Lamonster
Member
I've got an old IDE hard drive, but the original PC it was in is fried.
What's the best way to extract the data? Is there a solid IDE to SATA adapter out there or is there a better way to do it?
edit: any good external IDE enclosures?
What's the best way to extract the data? Is there a solid IDE to SATA adapter out there or is there a better way to do it?
edit: any good external IDE enclosures?
Rice-Eater
Member
I just read the oculus requirements(yes I didn't do this before). I just assumed new mid range parts would be more than enough that I didn't think I actually had to do any research. Looks like I'm going to wait till next year to snag a video card. But I think I will return the 6500 for a 6600k. I was being kind of cheap at the time but now I rather be more safe than sorry.
Deleting unwanted drivers would be fine. Just make sure you tell Windows to uninstall and delete the driver from device manager. But no need if dpc is ok on first boot up.
Rice-Eater
Member
Well I'm stuck with the 6500, newegg won't refund that unfortunately. I hope it can hold up well enough for VR whenever I get that.
Okay cool. I'll do this tonight and see what happens and post the results on here.
7DollarHagane
Banned
gtx 670 to 970? any opinions? worth the $200 or so difference once I sell the old card?
I really would like to play battlefield at 120fps at higher settings. Currently i have to set it all to medium to even get close.
I really would like to play battlefield at 120fps at higher settings. Currently i have to set it all to medium to even get close.
Even though it was a bad stick of RAM, I appreciate the advice! It's helpful nonetheless.
Whether the GTX 970 or 980 Ti will get you to 120FPS or not depends on the game and what graphics settings and resolution you'll be playing at. It's easier with the GTX 980 Ti and lower settings, of course. Reviews of the GTX 980 Ti playing BF4 at 1080p/ultra definitely put it close (Bit-Tech/Ocaholic) and with some lowered settings, it should be possible. The GTX 970 would also be capable of 120FPS, but at lower settings (closer to the medium settings you were tinkering with) of course.
It's up to you if you should wait.
Looks like this is what you want if you want an external enclosure for your IDE hard drive. Otherwise, there is this IDE/SATA adaptor that will let you use it inside your current PC. Both are the cheapest models I could find with decent review scores.
What cpu do you have? Fps is usually more tied to cpu rather than gpu.
7DollarHagane
Banned
I7-2700k.
I overclock it to 4ghz or something. I just use the Asus software for my motherboard.
I am probably better off waiting. After watching some videos of fallout 4 and battlefront on 670 my card seems to still do pretty well at 1080/60.
Pretty good for a may 2012 build. It's still doing well with new releases.
DOT DASH DOT
Member
Bloody Windows has decided to stop one of my front USB's from working, after I had to wipe my Bios settings. Everytime I put something in this particular USB, it says there was an error the last time, and just refuses to let anything work in it. But the other 7 USB ports work perfectly! And all ports are activated within the Bios. Anyone got any ideas?
The Lamonster
Member
Thanks! I will give this enclosure a shot.
Yea, I would just wait. New cpu's don't seem to be a huge leap. Gpu's as well.
Ghekkus
Member
Hello everyone. So I'm in the market to build a new rig. My mom's desktop died and I'm using this as an excuse to give her mine and a build a new one. The items below are what I am thinking of getting. Anything missing like optical drive, mechanical hard drives, and OS I already have covered.
I guess my main questions are:
1. I'll be stuck playing at 1080p60 for awhile. Do you think I can get away with just a GTX 970 and be fine with mostly maxed settings?
2. Price or overkill notwithstanding, does everything else look decent enough? Proper compatible pieces, etc? I've had good experience with ASUS and Corsair products in the past so I tend to favor those.
I do want to finally dabble with some overclocking.
-----
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus SABERTOOTH X99 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Haven't decided yet.
Case: Corsair 330R Titanium Edition ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Keyboard: Logitech G510s Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse
I guess my main questions are:
1. I'll be stuck playing at 1080p60 for awhile. Do you think I can get away with just a GTX 970 and be fine with mostly maxed settings?
2. Price or overkill notwithstanding, does everything else look decent enough? Proper compatible pieces, etc? I've had good experience with ASUS and Corsair products in the past so I tend to favor those.
I do want to finally dabble with some overclocking.
-----
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus SABERTOOTH X99 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Haven't decided yet.
Case: Corsair 330R Titanium Edition ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Keyboard: Logitech G510s Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse
Looks good, I'd suggest a mechanical unless you really like macro keys (Or look at G710+).
Also look at a mouse from the OP, not a fan of the 502, but up to you and what you've used in the past.
970 at 1080p is great and a good price / placeholder until the HBM2 stuff becomes affordable.
You may want an H80i instead for rear exhaust though. Or just air. Air is good.
Also look at a mouse from the OP, not a fan of the 502, but up to you and what you've used in the past.
970 at 1080p is great and a good price / placeholder until the HBM2 stuff becomes affordable.
You may want an H80i instead for rear exhaust though. Or just air. Air is good.
Ghekkus
Member
Cool. Thanks for the info in the reply.
I have an old first model G15 keyboard and G500 mouse that are both starting to fail. I like the way they feel so I figured those were likely good successors but those aren't set in stone yet.
I like the visual look of your recommendation of the G710+, I'll have to see if Best Buy has one that I can test out to see how it feels. I don't think I've ever used a mechanical keyboard before, lol.
Edit: That 400S actually looks a bit more like the G500 I have. I'll have to handle one of those too.
I have an old first model G15 keyboard and G500 mouse that are both starting to fail. I like the way they feel so I figured those were likely good successors but those aren't set in stone yet.
I like the visual look of your recommendation of the G710+, I'll have to see if Best Buy has one that I can test out to see how it feels. I don't think I've ever used a mechanical keyboard before, lol.
Edit: That 400S actually looks a bit more like the G500 I have. I'll have to handle one of those too.
Anyone mind critiquing my new build?
Link to the Build
Build is meant for a decent gaming PC without killing my reserves. My old gaming PC is about 4 years old now, and frequently crashes. And it's hard drive is about to die...
I might throw in an SSD, if I can find a good one for cheap during Black Friday.
Link to the Build
Build is meant for a decent gaming PC without killing my reserves. My old gaming PC is about 4 years old now, and frequently crashes. And it's hard drive is about to die...
I might throw in an SSD, if I can find a good one for cheap during Black Friday.
Depending on your upgrade plans and budget a Z97 build with a $60 PSU frees up a lot of money for an HBM2 GPU upgrade down the line and an upgrade to i7 later if needed.
Hey GAF, need some opinions from the experts here for a new PC I'm planning on building
I don't really overclock my PCs nor do I run multiple GPUs. So knowing that, is there any reason to get an i7 6700K over a vanilla i7 6700? How about a Z170 mobo over a H170 mobo?
I don't really overclock my PCs nor do I run multiple GPUs. So knowing that, is there any reason to get an i7 6700K over a vanilla i7 6700? How about a Z170 mobo over a H170 mobo?
I'd do it just from a resale value perspective and having the option to OC given how piss poor performance gains are.Hey GAF, need some opinions from the experts here for a new PC I'm planning on building
I don't really overclock my PCs nor do I run multiple GPUs. So knowing that, is there any reason to get an i7 6700K over a vanilla i7 6700? How about a Z170 mobo over a H170 mobo?
Also you'd need to find either one in stock first.
Stock isn't an issue(though I do have to pay a bit of a premium to the places that have the 6700/k in stock).
How about the more readily available i5 6600k vs the i7 6700? Considering the big chunk of cash I'll be spending, I'd like to keep this rig for a few years.
I never really resell my CPUs (or anything other than cars/houses for that matter
)The Red Wizard
Member
I've updated my build with a new motherboard and RAM. What do you guys think of those parts in particular? I'm going to have a look at Skinflint before ordering everything, especially with regards to the hard drive, but I just wanted some advice about the new motherboard and RAM. With regards to RAM, what's better between the following: DDR4-2133 with 13 CAS or DDR4-2400 with 14 CAS?
Looks fine. If you're gonna reinstall Windows anyway, you can just delete or format the partitions from the Windows installer. Otherwise that link will work for you.
I didn't see your build sheet or budget, if you're going to keep it a while you can consider X99. There's a lot of options TBH. But 8 Threads for sure at least.Stock isn't an issue(though I do have to pay a bit of a premium to the places that have the 6700/k in stock).
How about the more readily available i5 6600k vs the i7 6700? Considering the big chunk of cash I'll be spending, I'd like to keep this rig for a few years.
I never really resell my CPUs (or anything other than cars/houses for that matter
Can't speak on mobo, but 2400Mhz.
Wag
Member
Installed the EVGA 1300 G2, and it seems to be OK. I have to do some more testing. One thing I noticed is the fan is kind of loud compared to the antec HCP-1300, which was virtually silent. The 1300 G2 makes a loud audible electrical "whir". Very annoying. I don't know if exchanging it will solve the problem.
Anyways, I seem to have a bad 980Ti. When I installed the new 1300 G2, I fixed up the air-flow in my case. I noticed with all 3 980Tis installed now, 2 of them are only 33C and 44C when running Haven @ 4k maxed out, and one of them always hits 84C when limited, or if I take the limiter off it easily hits 91C. That's even with all 3 fans running @ 100%. I figured I had a bad one, that pretty much confirms it now. I'll have to RMA it.
Anyways, I seem to have a bad 980Ti. When I installed the new 1300 G2, I fixed up the air-flow in my case. I noticed with all 3 980Tis installed now, 2 of them are only 33C and 44C when running Haven @ 4k maxed out, and one of them always hits 84C when limited, or if I take the limiter off it easily hits 91C. That's even with all 3 fans running @ 100%. I figured I had a bad one, that pretty much confirms it now. I'll have to RMA it.
opticalmace
Member
- Status