Support NeoGAF

[Haloid1177]

It is just fine. Cooling performance is not quite as good, but it is a very solid choice (I went with the Phantek one over the Noctua for cosmetic reasons as well).

Thank God. I've almost got the build down to a white/black theme with red highlights, and the Noctua was throwing it all off.

Another question: are people recommending the G502 and the Corsair k70 RGB keyboard as the best to get? From what I've read everyone seems to love them, and they're my choice right now.

 

[JoeyJungle]

Also:

Tempting, very tempting.

WTF at the shipping date! It's one thing to be a scalper and charge ridiculous prices, but it's another to charge for items you don't even own yet!

Spoiler

still tempting. Only part of my build I'm missing

 

[Wag]

Eh. I bought a 5820k for my new x99 mobo but I went with a Thermalright True Spirit 140 BW Rev. A air/fan sync because I didn't want to deal with water. Should be adequate for my purposes. Hopefully I'll be able to get it up to 4.2-4.4GHz.

5820k should be just as good as a 6700k, especially if/when DX12 games start taking advantage of the extra cores.

 

[BossDarkseid]

Eh. I bought a 5820k for my new x99 mobo but I went with a Thermalright True Spirit 140 BW Rev. A heatsync because I didn't want to deal with water. Should be adequate for my purposes. Hopefully I'll be able to get it up to 4.2-4.4GHz.

Not quite the same as me but let me know how it goes. I plan on getting a 5820k and getting it to 4.2-4.4ghz but i'm going with a H100i.

 

[TheRyanx2]

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H55 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($115.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury White 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($88.93 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($185.00 @ B&H)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($71.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($678.95 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($115.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($91.75 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DGX 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series White 2 pack 52.2 CFM 120mm Fan ($20.49 @ OutletPC)
Other: Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows ($24.99)
Total: $1903.49
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-17 14:12 EDT-0400


Here is my current black/white build I have planned for November this year. The display will be my 1080p Samsung TV (next on my list to upgrade). The budget I set for myself is $2,000 but I'm hoping to save some with holiday sales. Any thoughts on better alternatives or other suggestions?

 

[Nachtmaer]

Here is my current black/white build I have planned for November this year. The display will be my 1080p Samsung TV (next on my list to upgrade). The budget I set for myself is $2,000 but I'm hoping to save some with holiday sales. Any thoughts on better alternatives or other suggestions?

If you're planning on getting this by November, you'd probably be better off going with a 6700k instead. As of now DDR4 is more expensive, but who knows by then prices will have dropped some more. And like you said, interesting deals could show up too.

 

[RandomExpletive]

Dremel or remove the HDD bays ez

Its gonna have to be the dremel, can't see any way to unscrew or remove the bays

I think I'm gonna go in for the sapphire 380

And then I went to bed and thought about it, poked around more, found this 280x, looks tempting, especially with the rebate factored in

 

[PlayALLtheGames]

Amazing deal on Dell U3415W if anyone is interested:

http://slickdeals.net/f/8049005-34-dell-u3415w-3440x1440-curved-ips-led-monitor-300-egift-card-774-free-shipping

$773 for the monitor, free shipping and a $300 gift card for dell.com!

I wasn't planning on getting a new monitor until next year - waiting for a larger, 144hz, G-Sync - but since selling my current two Dell 30" screens (a U3011 and U3014) will cover this cost, and I get the $300 gift card, I went for it. Will just sell this next year when I find the screen I've been waiting for.

 

[harz-marz]

I recently upgraded from a 2500 non-k to an i5 6600K. I was afraid to overclock as I have never done it before. I also had an issue where my DDR4 RAM was running at 2133 Mhz instead of it's advertised 3000 Mhz.

As stated before in this thread, I had done the "EZ" overclock which brought my CPU speed up to 4.1/4.2 according to CPU-Z.

I had a read through this guide by Asus https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz2...cHM/view?pli=1

Decided to try the following based on that article and this thread:

- Selected XMP profile
- Changed RAM speed to DDR4-3000
- Selected sync all cores
- Set limit to 45
- Selected adaptive mode
- Changed voltage to 1.350
- Saved and rebooted!

PC rebooted fine and seems to be running ok! Have I just successfully overclocked?!

CPU-Z shows the following:

- Core speed = 4500.00 Mhz
- Multiplier = X 45.0 (8-45)
- Bus speed = 100 Mhz
- DRAM frequency = 1500.0 Mhz


Do these settings look correct for this to have been successful?

 

[Skii]

The best way is this.

Unpack the Case, get the plastic and foam out the way. This stuff harvests static.
Now touch a radiator, that will ground you, and youll probably get a static shock - that means your discharged.
Safe to do what you like now, i periodically touch the radiator again after doing some things.

Just touch a grounded metal object every so often. A radiator would be perfect.

Thanks lads. Didn't really want to spend £5 on that wristband haha.

Here's hoping I'll be playing the Witcher 3 on my brand new PC tomorrow!

 

[gigantor21]

Recently upgraded to an XFX R9 290 from a 7870...goddamn. Framerates in several games have nearly doubled, and I got it for less than the 7870 cost me back in 2013.

 

[Shadowhaxor]

FYI - Currently selling a pair of EVGA GTX 970 SSC's in the forsale / thread, if you're looking for GPU upgrade for cheap.

 

[longdi]

Eh. I bought a 5820k for my new x99 mobo but I went with a Thermalright True Spirit 140 BW Rev. A air/fan sync because I didn't want to deal with water. Should be adequate for my purposes. Hopefully I'll be able to get it up to 4.2-4.4GHz.

5820k should be just as good as a 6700k, especially if/when DX12 games start taking advantage of the extra cores.

I have the TSP 140 power, it is good and works well with 5960X at 4.5Ghz. Love the slick single tower of it. Installing the fan clips is a pita, advise you to fix them up first before screwing down the heat sink onto your board.

5820k is a win imo.

 

[king grimlock]

So for some some reason doing nothing on my PC or just web browsing will sometimes use 15/16GB of ram making it basically unusable and I can't seem to find what task is sucking it up.


It's now been about 5 minutes of 98% memory usage. The only program open is task manager.

Edit: running all the anti-bad shit software already just wanted to see if it could possibly be a hardware issue.

 

[Izayoi]

Thank God. I've almost got the build down to a white/black theme with red highlights, and the Noctua was throwing it all off.

Another question: are people recommending the G502 and the Corsair k70 RGB keyboard as the best to get? From what I've read everyone seems to love them, and they're my choice right now.

The RGB is purely cosmetic, and a ~$40 increase over the functionally identical non-RGB model. Keep that in mind when making your purpose.

Red LEDs are a little too XTREME for me and given the choice between paying $170 for the color-change Corsair and $80 for the CM Quick Fire TK (with much less offensive white LEDs), it was an easy choice for me.

I also got the G502 and have never had any problems with Logitech, so I think it should be a solid choice.

I recently upgraded from a 2500 non-k to an i5 6600K. I was afraid to overclock as I have never done it before. I also had an issue where my DDR4 RAM was running at 2133 Mhz instead of it's advertised 3000 Mhz.

As stated before in this thread, I had done the "EZ" overclock which brought my CPU speed up to 4.1/4.2 according to CPU-Z.

I had a read through this guide by Asus https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz2...cHM/view?pli=1

Decided to try the following based on that article and this thread:

- Selected XMP profile
- Changed RAM speed to DDR4-3000
- Selected sync all cores
- Set limit to 45
- Selected adaptive mode
- Changed voltage to 1.350
- Saved and rebooted!

PC rebooted fine and seems to be running ok! Have I just successfully overclocked?!

CPU-Z shows the following:

- Core speed = 4500.00 Mhz
- Multiplier = X 45.0 (8-45)
- Bus speed = 100 Mhz
- DRAM frequency = 1500.0 Mhz


Do these settings look correct for this to have been successful?

1.35v sounds high to me, but I don't know anything about Skylake overclocking...

 

[Evo X]

I recently upgraded from a 2500 non-k to an i5 6600K. I was afraid to overclock as I have never done it before. I also had an issue where my DDR4 RAM was running at 2133 Mhz instead of it's advertised 3000 Mhz.

As stated before in this thread, I had done the "EZ" overclock which brought my CPU speed up to 4.1/4.2 according to CPU-Z.

I had a read through this guide by Asus https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz2...cHM/view?pli=1

Decided to try the following based on that article and this thread:

- Selected XMP profile
- Changed RAM speed to DDR4-3000
- Selected sync all cores
- Set limit to 45
- Selected adaptive mode
- Changed voltage to 1.350
- Saved and rebooted!

PC rebooted fine and seems to be running ok! Have I just successfully overclocked?!

CPU-Z shows the following:

- Core speed = 4500.00 Mhz
- Multiplier = X 45.0 (8-45)
- Bus speed = 100 Mhz
- DRAM frequency = 1500.0 Mhz


Do these settings look correct for this to have been successful?

You shouldn't need to use more than 1.3v man. Dial it back a notch. Everything else seems fine.

FWIW, I'm running 4.5Ghz stable on a more power hungry Haswell-E chip with only 1.25v, so your Skylake should be using even less voltage.

 

[CreepingFear]

I recently upgraded from a 2500 non-k to an i5 6600K. I was afraid to overclock as I have never done it before. I also had an issue where my DDR4 RAM was running at 2133 Mhz instead of it's advertised 3000 Mhz.

As stated before in this thread, I had done the "EZ" overclock which brought my CPU speed up to 4.1/4.2 according to CPU-Z.

I had a read through this guide by Asus https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz2...cHM/view?pli=1

Decided to try the following based on that article and this thread:

- Selected XMP profile
- Changed RAM speed to DDR4-3000
- Selected sync all cores
- Set limit to 45
- Selected adaptive mode
- Changed voltage to 1.350
- Saved and rebooted!

PC rebooted fine and seems to be running ok! Have I just successfully overclocked?!

CPU-Z shows the following:

- Core speed = 4500.00 Mhz
- Multiplier = X 45.0 (8-45)
- Bus speed = 100 Mhz
- DRAM frequency = 1500.0 Mhz


Do these settings look correct for this to have been successful?

You need to run Prime 95 for at least 24 hours imho. Monitor temperatures. Make sure it doesn't go over 80c

 

[Evo X]

You need to run Prime 95 for at least 24 hours imho. Monitor temperatures. Make sure it doesn't go over 80c

24 hours on Prime95 is overkill for such a modest overclock. All it's going to do is waste a hell of a lot of electricity and create heat.

 

[CreepingFear]

24 hours on Prime95 is overkill for such a modest overclock. All it's going to do is waste a hell of a lot of electricity and create heat.

The point is to test the heat and stability.

 

[Izayoi]

The point is to test the heat and stability.

We're past the days of needing to run stress tests for untold hours on end. Long-term stability can be determined in less than a hour typically.

 

[Evo X]

The point is to test the heat and stability.

Yeah, but you don't need to run a program like Prime95 for 24 hours to test for that.

4.5 on Skylake is easy as hell. Not likely it's going to throw an error 23 hours into a torture test.

Now if it was more of an edge case, like say 4.8+, then yeah you'd want to be more careful. Even then, I think 8 hours is more than enough.

I've been overclocking for over a decade and found that solely using programs like Prime95 aren't even the best for testing overall system stability. You can have an OC that's Prime stable that can fail within 5 minutes of playing Crysis 3. It's better to test in a variety of different environments instead of wasting a day running a stress test just to put an arbitrary stamp of approval on it.

 

[Celcius]

*sigh*
One of these days I'll get around to upgrading something in my pc again...

 

[Izayoi]

Yeah, but you don't need to run a program like Prime95 for 24 hours to test for that.

4.5 on Skylake is easy as hell. Not likely it's going to throw an error 23 hours into a torture test.

Now if it was more of an edge case, like say 4.8+, then yeah you'd want to be more careful. Even then, I think 8 hours is more than enough.

I've been overclocking for over a decade and found that solely using programs like Prime95 aren't even the best for testing overall system stability. You can have an OC that's Prime stable that can fail within 5 minutes of playing Crysis 3. It's better to test in a variety of different environments instead of wasting a day running a stress test just to put an arbitrary stamp of approval on it.

You shouldn't even have to run it that long. In addition, there are other programs available like Intel Burn Test. While not technically a stress-testing application, Handbrake is fantastic for really working your CPU in multi-threaded situations, and can instantly crash some otherwise-stable overclocks. I use both of these, in addition to Prime95, when overclocking (for myself and for friends). A combination of 15-30 minutes with each should be more than enough to determine system stability.

 

[woodland]

Hey!

I know this is the PC thread, but I was wondering if anyone could give me any advice on a laptop? My Mac has been shitting out for the past few months and crashing non-stop, running slow, etc - even after getting repaired multiple times. Think it's on it's last legs.

I'm looking for a new laptop, windows, mostly for school but also potentially for a few games that won't take a lot of resources (Dota 2, Rocket League on low, etc etc). I've narrowed it down to a few (goal is under $1000) and was wondering if anyone would give me some advice? I haven't built a PC in a few years and laptops were never my specialty.

Dell Inspiron 15 - 5547 (Worried about the onboard graphics on this one. Only a 4400 vs 5500 or more on the others).

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NF0IM5M/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Dell XPS Ultrabook

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RY4X8A4/?tag=neogaf0e-20

ASUS Zenbook UX303LA-US51T

http://www.microsoftstore.com/store...-Signature-Edition-Laptop/productID.313371600

ASUS K501LX-EB71

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YR6BMS2/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Aspire V Nitro

http://us.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/NX.MQJAA.002

As I said, mostly this would be used for Excel at school, Media (Netflix/iTunes), and maybe some Dolphin/Dota. I'm just looking for recs or comments. The ASUS K501LX looks pretty good because of the i7, 8 GB DDR3, and NVIDIA GeForce 950M. BUT, I don't know how that stacks up to the Intel 5500 Graphics that most of the others have.

Can anyone help? Thanks

Edit: One last thing - if anyone has extra experience with any of these touch pads, please comment on that. I have a mouse and would be using that for gaming obviously, but when I'm just watching netflix or listening to music I use the touchpad and LOVE the one on my Macbook. It's probably the best one I've had and the main thing I like about Apple devices. Thanks again^^

 

[comrade]

I remember passing 12 hours of Prime 95 and then getting a BSOD opening my browser after stopping the test lol.

 

[ricki42]

I know this is the PC thread, but I was wondering if anyone could give me any advice on a laptop?

Second line in the OP: Laptop-GAF.

 

[woodland]

Second line in the OP: Laptop-GAF.

D: Shit. I'll move it now my bad.

 

[TheRyanx2]

If you're planning on getting this by November, you'd probably be better off going with a 6700k instead. As of now DDR4 is more expensive, but who knows by then prices will have dropped some more. And like you said, interesting deals could show up too.

Good point, thanks. I'll keep an eye on those prices.

 

[Enduin]

I caved, bought the 5820K from Micro Center for $299. My mom's work computer tanked and the good son that I am said she could have my old rig meaning I need to complete this new one asap and 6700K availability is nowhere in sight from all the research I've done.

Also picked up the Asus X99-A 3.1USB version from NewEgg. Got a nice little $25 discount for pay with Visa Checkout. So that should hopefully be here Wednesday or Thursday. New build should be complete sometime Friday.

Anyone buying anything over 200 this is the 25 off code. I think it's 10 off anything over 100 as well. VCO2015BTS

 

[hitgirl]

I need a computer monitor for work. Excell spreadsheets, email, and what not. I'd sort of like a 120hz one as I think desktop usage is real nice with 120hz. I had a BenQ and the picture was pretty terrible. Do they make a 120hz monitor with a good picture that isn't super expensive?

 

[OraleeWey]

I need a computer monitor for work. Excell spreadsheets, email, and what not. I'd sort of like a 120hz one as I think desktop usage is real nice with 120hz. I had a BenQ and the picture was pretty terrible. Do they make a 120hz monitor with a good picture that isn't super expensive?

If you're getting a monitor for work and not gaming then I recommend an IPS Panel. Especially a 21:9 aspect ratio monitor or "Ultra Wide" monitor. Typically speaking, high hz panels don't give the best color accuracy. They sacrifice that for higher hz. Those are TN panels. IPS panles on the other hand give you better color accuracy but typically have 60hz - 100hz refresh rates. The beauty of 21:9 aspect ratio monitors is that you can be more productive at work because of all the screen screen estate and no bezels. One 21:9 monitor is like two 16:9 monitors.

There are benefits when it comes to gaming on them too. Just as there are benefits, there are downsides But I'm no expert on the subject... Just thought I'd give my 2 cents.

 

[hitgirl]

If you're getting a monitor for work and not gaming then I recommend an IPS Panel. Especially a 21:9 aspect ratio monitor or "Ultra Wide" monitor. Typically speaking, high hz panels don't give the best color accuracy. They sacrifice that for higher hz. Those are TN panels. IPS panles on the other hand give you better color accuracy but typically have 60hz - 100hz refresh rates. The beauty of 21:9 aspect ratio monitors is that you can be more productive at work because of all the screen screen estate and no bezels. One 21:9 monitor is like two 16:9 monitors.

There are benefits when it comes to gaming on them too. Just as there are benefits, there are downsides But I'm no expert on the subject... Just thought I'd give my 2 cents.

Right, I actually did some poking around just after posting this and thought a 21:9 would be good for me. As I'm the type of person who has an excel sheet open and twitch channel open at the same time. I think a 21:9 would allow me to get the real estate of a dual monitor setup without the clutter. It's just that the LG I found is $700-900.. damn. I'd really like the extra vertical real estate over 1080p too.

 

[OraleeWey]

Right, I actually did some poking around just after posting this and thought a 21:9 would be good for me. As I'm the type of person who has an excel sheet open and twitch channel open at the same time. I think a 21:9 would allow me to get the real estate of a dual monitor setup without the clutter. It's just that the LG I found is $700-900.. damn. I'd really like the extra vertical real estate over 1080p too.

Make sure it is 1440p because 1080p may give you trouble when reading text. Try this model, 34UC97.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcaktV1iiGk

It's expensive though. But then there's this...

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=175749447&postcount=777

 

[hitgirl]

Make sure it is 1440p because 1080p may give you trouble when reading text. Try this model, 34UC97.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcaktV1iiGk

Yea, I'd need 1440p. Ugh this expensive lol.

 

[OraleeWey]

Yea, I'd need 1440p. Ugh this expensive lol.

Thought I could edit my post above before you replied

 

[hitgirl]

Thought I could edit my post above before you replied

Dells a nice deal. Will have to wait a month or two. As I'm waiting for the Skylake Intel NUC to use as my PC, then guess I'll get one of these monitors. I hope the Skylake NUC can run one of these bad boys with a bunch of windows open.

 

[Green Card]

HAF 922's case fans are a bit louder than I would like so I think I will buy a fan controller. From what I've read even connecting it to the motherboard the fans will operate at 100%. The two fan controllers I'm looking at are

NZXT Sentry-2 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...5&cm_re=fan_controller-_-11-992-005-_-Product

NZXT AC-SEN-3-B1 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...3&cm_re=fan_controller-_-11-992-005-_-Product

Can anyone weigh in on either of these? Thanks.

 

[harz-marz]

You shouldn't need to use more than 1.3v man. Dial it back a notch. Everything else seems fine.

FWIW, I'm running 4.5Ghz stable on a more power hungry Haswell-E chip with only 1.25v, so your Skylake should be using even less voltage.

Thanks. Will try dial it back a bit. The Eurogamer review said they used that voltage (1.35) to get theirs to 4.5 hence why I picked this.

 

[Grassy]

I recently upgraded from a 2500 non-k to an i5 6600K. I was afraid to overclock as I have never done it before. I also had an issue where my DDR4 RAM was running at 2133 Mhz instead of it's advertised 3000 Mhz.

As stated before in this thread, I had done the "EZ" overclock which brought my CPU speed up to 4.1/4.2 according to CPU-Z.

I had a read through this guide by Asus https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bz2...cHM/view?pli=1

Decided to try the following based on that article and this thread:

- Selected XMP profile
- Changed RAM speed to DDR4-3000
- Selected sync all cores
- Set limit to 45
- Selected adaptive mode
- Changed voltage to 1.350
- Saved and rebooted!

PC rebooted fine and seems to be running ok! Have I just successfully overclocked?!

CPU-Z shows the following:

- Core speed = 4500.00 Mhz
- Multiplier = X 45.0 (8-45)
- Bus speed = 100 Mhz
- DRAM frequency = 1500.0 Mhz


Do these settings look correct for this to have been successful?

That's not an "issue" so much as just how the memory defaults to 2133mhz with these CPUs/mobos. Mine did the same. As you obviously found out, you just need to enable the XMP profile in the BIOS to bring the memory up to it's rated speed.

I just finished building my system this morning:

i7 6700K
Asus Maximus 8 Hero
16gb GSkill 2800 DDR4
Noctua Dh15 cpu cooler
EVGA 1000w Platinum PSU
Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate case
I switched my SSD's and 980 Ti's out of my old PC.

I haven't ventured into overclocking it yet, I'll definitely give it a go tonight though. The Noctua cooler and this case are insanely good in terms of cooling and noise-level. I used some Gelid thermal paste and my idle temps are mid-20's and the system is almost inaudible from 1 foot away, even with the sides of the case off. I love it so far.
I haven't seen the CPU go over 55 degrees yet, but I'll fix that soon enough.

You shouldn't need to use more than 1.3v man. Dial it back a notch. Everything else seems fine.

FWIW, I'm running 4.5Ghz stable on a more power hungry Haswell-E chip with only 1.25v, so your Skylake should be using even less voltage.

Haswell's overclocking theory doesn't seem to apply to Skylake unfortunately. Most people getting 4.5+ are using vcore of anywhere from 1.35, up to 1.45 for 4.8ghz in the Guru3d review. The highest "recommended" by Asus/Intel is 1.45 apparently.

 

[harz-marz]

That's not an "issue" so much as just how the memory defaults to 2133mhz with these CPUs/mobos. Mine did the same. As you obviously found out, you just need to enable the XMP profile in the BIOS to bring the memory up to it's rated speed.

I just finished building my system this morning:

i7 6700K
Asus Maximus 8 Hero
16gb GSkill 2800 DDR4
Noctua Dh15 cpu cooler
EVGA 1000w Platinum PSU
Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate case
I switched my SSD's and 980 Ti's out of my old PC.

I haven't ventured into overclocking it yet, I'll definitely give it a go tonight though. The Noctua cooler and this case are insanely good in terms of cooling and noise-level. I used some Gelid thermal paste and my idle temps are mid-20's and the system is almost inaudible from 1 foot away, even with the sides of the case off. I love it so far.
I haven't seen the CPU go over 55 degrees yet, but I'll fix that soon enough.



Haswell's overclocking theory doesn't seem to apply to Skylake unfortunately. Most people getting 4.5+ are using vcore of anywhere from 1.35, up to 1.45 for 4.8ghz in the Guru3d review. The highest "recommended" by Asus/Intel is 1.45 apparently.

Thanks for the reassurance on this. I will run some stress tests to be sure.

What does everyone use to monitor temp?

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

Thanks for the reassurance on this. I will run some stress tests to be sure.

What does everyone use to monitor temp?

I use HWinfo6, realtemp.

 

[Acinixys]

Did you pick something yet? I too am looking at a similar upgrade (though from a 6950 to one of the above.)

A 4gb 960 is $350 locally (ridiculous price), and the 4gb R9 380s about the same (maybe $15 cheaper) so I'm leaning towards the 380.

Im getting the R9 280 3GB

Its cheaper than the 960 by $30, and is better in many ways

Ive been looking at cards for the last two days, and this is the right choice IMO.

 

[harz-marz]

I use HWinfo6, realtemp.

Thanks will try this later. Overclocking wasn't as daunting as I thought it would be!

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

Im getting the R9 280 3GB

Its cheaper than the 960 by $30, and is better in many ways

Ive been looking at cards for the last two days, and this is the right choice IMO.

Good choice.

Thanks will try this later. Overclocking wasn't as daunting as I thought it would be!

Yep, if you only do casual OC that is. And that was HWinfo64, small typo.

 

[Qvoth]

is corsair cx600m good enough as psu if i have msi gtx 970, i5 4690 and a h97m motherboard?

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

is corsair cx600m good enough as psu if i have msi gtx 970, i5 4690 and a h97m motherboard?

Yes, it is.

 

[Qvoth]

thanks!

 

[Hayvic]

Is it okay to use this thread to troubleshoot my new PC build?

I recently bought

Gigabyte Z97M-D3H
Intel Core i5 4690K
Kingston HyperX FURY Black Series 16GB
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G

Except for the fact the GPU didn't fit into my old case the installation went swimmingly once I had it replaced. I also recycled my storage and PSU which is a 7 year old Coolermaster 600W. After a couple of days I suddenly started getting issues with a cold start. The fans kick in but nothing happens, no screen nor beeps. I have to retry several times and unplug the PSU to get it to start again. Sometimes it would boot but then it wouldn't recognize the drives, in that case the keyboard isn't functional either. After 2-3 attempts it would boot normally and I can spend hours with no issues. Yesterday something new happened. After I turned it on I got the message that BIOS had been reset. The cold start problem seemed to have disappeared. I tried it a couple of times and every time it booted normally. However, today it wouldn't boot again. The second time the BIOS got reset again.

Things I tried to no avail:

- unplugged the storage drives one by one
- Tested the ram sticks one by one
- Tried old GPU

The problem still persists so I'm thinking it's either the motherboard or the PSU. The PSU is my main bet right now because the cold start issue is resolved by unplugging it and because I feel like it is making way more noise than it used to do. It would also be the most convenient one becuase I don't have to go through the RMA process. That's why I just ordered a new one. However I don't see how a faulty PSU could cause the BIOS to rest. What do you guys think?

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

Is it okay to use this thread to troubleshoot my new PC build?

I recently bought

Gigabyte Z97M-D3H
Intel Core i5 4690K
Kingston HyperX FURY Black Series 16GB
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G

Except for the fact the GPU didn't fit into my old case the installation went swimmingly once I had it replaced. I also recycled my storage and PSU which is a 7 year old Coolermaster 600W. After a couple of days I suddenly started getting issues with a cold start. The fans kick in but nothing happens, no screen nor beeps. I have to retry several times and unplug the PSU to get it to start again. Sometimes it would boot but then it wouldn't recognize the drives, in that case the keyboard isn't functional either. After 2-3 attempts it would boot normally and I can spend hours with no issues. Yesterday something new happened. After I turned it on I got the message that BIOS had been reset. The cold start problem seemed to have disappeared. I tried it a couple of times and every time it booted normally. However, today it wouldn't boot again. The second time the BIOS got reset again.

Things I tried to no avail:

- unplugged the storage drives one by one
- Tested the ram sticks one by one
- Tried old GPU

The problem still persists so I'm thinking it's either the motherboard or the PSU. The PSU is my main bet right now because the cold start issue is resolved by unplugging it and because I feel like it is making way more noise than it used to do. It would also be the most convenient one becuase I don't have to go through the RMA process. That's why I just ordered a new one. However I don't see how a faulty PSU could cause the BIOS to rest. What do you guys think?

Just wait to replace your PSU, see if the BIOS problem still persists. If it does, your CMOS battery might be faulty.

 

[comrade]

Is it okay to use this thread to troubleshoot my new PC build?

I recently bought

Gigabyte Z97M-D3H
Intel Core i5 4690K
Kingston HyperX FURY Black Series 16GB
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G

Except for the fact the GPU didn't fit into my old case the installation went swimmingly once I had it replaced. I also recycled my storage and PSU which is a 7 year old Coolermaster 600W. After a couple of days I suddenly started getting issues with a cold start. The fans kick in but nothing happens, no screen nor beeps. I have to retry several times and unplug the PSU to get it to start again. Sometimes it would boot but then it wouldn't recognize the drives, in that case the keyboard isn't functional either. After 2-3 attempts it would boot normally and I can spend hours with no issues. Yesterday something new happened. After I turned it on I got the message that BIOS had been reset. The cold start problem seemed to have disappeared. I tried it a couple of times and every time it booted normally. However, today it wouldn't boot again. The second time the BIOS got reset again.

Things I tried to no avail:

- unplugged the storage drives one by one
- Tested the ram sticks one by one
- Tried old GPU

The problem still persists so I'm thinking it's either the motherboard or the PSU. The PSU is my main bet right now because the cold start issue is resolved by unplugging it and because I feel like it is making way more noise than it used to do. It would also be the most convenient one becuase I don't have to go through the RMA process. That's why I just ordered a new one. However I don't see how a faulty PSU could cause the BIOS to rest. What do you guys think?

Sounds either Motherboard or PSU related to me since it keeps resetting the BIOS like the Motherboard is losing power. I'd check the 24 pin and 4 pin cables to the motherboard. Either make sure they're in all the way or unplug them and securely plug them back in. If it keeps happening I'd try a different PSU, after that a different mobo.