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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Evo X

Member
Hah I will try, during normal use it never goes above 45-55 while playing tf2 or mgs, just when I did prime 95.

The only other odd thing is that after playing sometimes for an hour or so the PC in tf2 will do a hard lock and I will have to restart the PC, this may be coincidental, but didn't happen until after trying to install the evo. Any thoughts and I appreciate the feedback already.


I am dumb, I didn't tighten the middle screw in the x-bracket... Should I tighten it now or uninstall it all and start over? Been about 2 days since I put mx-3 Tim on there.

Don't use Prime95 with Haswell chips!

The AVX2 instructions in the program are known to spike those processors to dangerous heat and voltage levels.

You didn't mount the cooler wrong if it stays at 45-55C during gaming. Tighten the middle screw and you should be fine.
 

Menome

Member
Repost of my question from several pages ago:

Okay, the Asus monitor I purchased a couple of months ago has a red stuck-pixel right in the centre of the screen. It's bloody annoying and causing me to game less on my PC because it's directly in the area I look at when playing games. It just can't be ignored. Asus' stuck-pixel policy states that I need to have five of them before I can send it off for an RMA, so I'm lumbered with it.

I will have another couple of hundred quid soon that I can begrudgingly spare for a new monitor, so as Viewsonic has a zero-tolerance policy for centre-screen stuck/dead pixels, I'm going to go for them and also make the jump to a 144hz monitor.

Is the VG2401MH model worth the cash? (Will wait for the Amazon-supplied version to come back in stock for £199.99)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NM758GE/
 

LordAlu

Member
Another question... I'm almost done now but I want to know if my case's fan (NZXT S340) can be connected to my motherboard (Z170-A)?

I think it has a Molex connector and the case's manual suggests sticking that into the PSU but I want to connect it to the motherboard so I can control fan speed. I can pull away a part that can only take in 3 prongs whilst my motherboard CHA FAN 1 has 4 prongs. What should I do?
You can put the three prong connector into the 4-pin on the motherboard. If you look carefully you'll see the 4-pin socket has the tab moved to one side, so you can still put a 3-pin in.

4pin.jpg


Since I'm on a budget getting a Micro ATX mobo would mean to get a smaller case since it wouldn't make sense on my full size tower. I'll get the normal ATX mobo I posted, is it good or would you recommend anything else for that price range?
Personally I really like the MSI X99A SLI PLUS.
 

Skii

Member
You can put the three prong connector into the 4-pin on the motherboard. If you look carefully you'll see the 4-pin socket has the tab moved to one side, so you can still put a 3-pin in.

4pin.jpg


.

Ah okay, thanks man!

Just a couple more questions and I think I'll have it up and running:

1)The molex connector also has a LED light for the case (I think) connected to it, should I leave that connected to the PSU?

2) My PSU has wires for the GPU that have a two 8 pin connectors on it. Do I use just one to fill out the 14 holes or do I use two wires?

Thanks again for the help :)
 

LordAlu

Member
Ah okay, thanks man!

Just a couple more questions and I think I'll have it up and running:

1)The molex connector also has a LED light for the case (I think) connected to it, should I leave that connected to the PSU?

2) My PSU has wires for the GPU that have a two 8 pin connectors on it. Do I use just one to fill out the 14 holes or do I use two wires?

Thanks again for the help :)
Leave the light connected to the PSU - if you find it too bright or distracting you can always disconnect it.

For your graphics card, if your cable has two 6+2-pin connectors on it just use those two for the single card.
 
Don't use Prime95 with Haswell chips!

The AVX2 instructions in the program are known to spike those processors to dangerous heat and voltage levels.

You didn't mount the cooler wrong if it stays at 45-55C during gaming. Tighten the middle screw and you should be fine.

I am a dolt, I will do that when I get in from work. Also wish I would have know. That for the Haswell chips, I thought it was odd for it to spike so high.
 

Skii

Member
Leave the light connected to the PSU - if you find it too bright or distracting you can always disconnect it.

For your graphics card, if your cable has two 6+2-pin connectors on it just use those two for the single card.

Okay I've done all that!

I've connected it to my monitor and it has no signal. We all knew this was going to happen.

What I can tell you is that the CPU cooler fans are running, the fans on both sides of the case are running, the GTX 970's lights are on (but no fans are running). I've connected to the GPU's hdmi and the hdmi of the motherboard and nothing happens. The screen is not the problem or the HDMI as my laptop connects to the monitor. So, anything that might be causing me to get no signal?
 

LordAlu

Member
That looks great, visually and spec wise. Why does it have the same price as the more inferior Gigabyte? Less reliable?
Not at all. It just seems that MSI have priced it at a reasonable amount rather than calling it "premium" and charging a high price. The audio codec perhaps isn't quite as top quality as some boards but the amount of features you get for the price it's pretty sweet.

Okay I've done all that!

I've connected it to my monitor and it has no signal. We all knew this was going to happen.

What I can tell you is that the CPU cooler fans are running, the fans on both sides of the case are running, the GTX 970's lights are on (but no fans are running). I've connected to the GPU's hdmi and the hdmi of the motherboard and nothing happens. The screen is not the problem or the HDMI as my laptop connects to the monitor. So, anything that might be causing me to get no signal?
The easiest way to troubleshoot this right now is take the graphics card back out (unplug your power to it too), and plug your HDMI into the motherboard. If there's a graphics card installed the system will always try to use that, hence why you might not of got anything out of the board.

You should get an output that way. If that's the case, turn it off and put the card back in, making sure the power cables are properly connected, plug the HDMI cable in to the graphics card and turn it on then. Hopefully you should get a signal.
 
So is SLI relatively stable? Was thinking of getting a 970 to replace my 770GTX and get a 1440p gsync monitor.

Somewhere down the line I would also get another 970...

Is this a good idea?

This whole buying into a technology thing "free vs g sync" is really annoying.

I've always been on team green basically because I've never had issues with any cards or drivers. Dont want to jinx it ya know.
 

SliChillax

Member
The audio codec perhaps isn't quite as top quality as some boards but the amount of features you get for the price it's pretty sweet.

This isn't a problem for me since I only game with headphones connected to an amp and DAC. Thanks for the recommendation, will order it soon.
 

Izayoi

Banned
Hi again, I stopped by a couple months ago for some advice, and after tweaking things here and there I think I'm about ready to start buying everything. Just wanted to get some eyes on it to make sure I'm not overlooking anything.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/NVt2CJ

Main thing I'm concerned about is I feel maybe I'm cheaping out too much on the monitor, considering all the other stuff I'm cramming in there? I think I'd at least want something IPS for the viewing angles/color accuracy (do a fair amount of Photoshop). Would something like the PA248Q be better? Or are there other recommendations here?

Also, if I wanted to go for a higher-end second screen later on (with G-sync?) what would you recommend I look at?
If you're willing to drop $280 on a monitor, why not go straight for a G-Sync model now? Less than $100 more and at 144hz it will give that 970 some room to stretch its legs.
 

Skii

Member
The easiest way to troubleshoot this right now is take the graphics card back out (unplug your power to it too), and plug your HDMI into the motherboard. If there's a graphics card installed the system will always try to use that, hence why you might not of got anything out of the board.

You should get an output that way. If that's the case, turn it off and put the card back in, making sure the power cables are properly connected, plug the HDMI cable in to the graphics card and turn it on then. Hopefully you should get a signal.

You were right! Just reseated the GPU again and it's finally working :D

Now I'm in bios, my RAM is showing as 2133Mhz rather than the advertised 3000Mhz... what should I do for that?

Are there any other recommended things to do in bios before installing the OS?

Thanks again :)
 

ricki42

Member
Now I'm in bios, my RAM is showing as 2133Mhz rather than the advertised 3000Mhz... what should I do for that?

In BIOS, under "Ai Tweaker" set the 'Ai Overclock Tuner' to XMP. That should make them run at their overclocked frequency

Would anyone care to recommend me some DDR3 ram?

Currently have Mushkin Blackline 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL9 DIMM in my system, and want to bump up to 16GB. Needs to be dual channel as my CPU cooler blocks one of my slots. i5 2500K and a P8Z68-V PRO mobo. Thanks!

PS here is a link to my old ram: http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_311_312_612&item_id=044295

Depending on the cooler you may be able to mount the fan a bit higher to accommodate a RAM stick. But a low-profile stick (no huge heatspreader above the PCB) should fit below it anyway. What cooler do you have?
 

Duxxy3

Member
Is it worth upgrading from a 6950 1GB (don't ask) to play Gears Ultimate and Rise of the Tomb Raider? Really don't want to spend more than $200.

Will be playing on a 1080p monitor and strongly prefer 60fps
i5 3450 (i won't be upgrading this)
8GB DDR3
Corsair 650w
 

Skii

Member
In BIOS, under "Ai Tweaker" set the 'Ai Overclock Tuner' to XMP. That should make them run at their overclocked frequency

I changed the profile to XMP but it still says my DRAM status is 2133Mhz but the settings say that its at 3090(?)Mhz.

Also, I just tried installing Windows 10 and its telling me that the computer is missing a media driver so it can't install. What am I supposed to do now?
 

Iced

Member
In BIOS, under "Ai Tweaker" set the 'Ai Overclock Tuner' to XMP. That should make them run at their overclocked frequency



Depending on the cooler you may be able to mount the fan a bit higher to accommodate a RAM stick. But a low-profile stick (no huge heatspreader above the PCB) should fit below it anyway. What cooler do you have?

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. I'm pretty sure there's only one way to install it, but I've certainly been wrong before when it comes to PC parts!

Edit: Actually, upon looking it I suppose I could move the fan forward a bit to accommodate 4 ram slots. Would there be any distinct advantage to using 4 over 2?
 

ricki42

Member
I changed the profile to XMP but it still says my DRAM status is 2133Mhz but the settings say that its at 3090(?)Mhz.

How do you mean, status and settings? I'm looking at your motherboard's manual, page 2-16. My mobo has a somewhat similar BIOS (Asus Z97-A), and for me, the 'Target DRAM frequency' at the top and the memory frequency on the right under hardware status read the same overclocked frequency (1866 MHz for me). The DRAM frequency entry is also set to that frequency.

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. I'm pretty sure there's only one way to install it, but I've certainly been wrong before when it comes to PC parts!

You can take off the mounting bracket (the black plastic latches or hooks or what it is that attach to the actual cooler) for the fan and clip it back on a little bit higher. The fan will stick out a little bit above the metal part, but if you have sufficient space in your case, that isn't a problem.
But you should still have something like 39 or 40 mm space for RAM sticks underneath even with the fan in default position.
 

ricki42

Member
Edit: Actually, upon looking it I suppose I could move the fan forward a bit to accommodate 4 ram slots. Would there be any distinct advantage to using 4 over 2?

Only advantage is that you'd only have to buy 8 GB instead of 16 GB.
 
You were right! Just reseated the GPU again and it's finally working :D

Now I'm in bios, my RAM is showing as 2133Mhz rather than the advertised 3000Mhz... what should I do for that?

Are there any other recommended things to do in bios before installing the OS?

Thanks again :)

3000MHz is the overclocked speed. You have to set the profile in BIOS.
 

Skii

Member
How do you mean, status and settings? I'm looking at your motherboard's manual, page 2-16. My mobo has a somewhat similar BIOS (Asus Z97-A), and for me, the 'Target DRAM frequency' at the top and the memory frequency on the right under hardware status read the same overclocked frequency (1866 MHz for me). The DRAM frequency entry is also set to that frequency.

Here's a picture:


Does that mean it's running at 2133Mhz or 3090Mhz?
 

ricki42

Member
Here's a picture:


Does that mean it's running at 2133Mhz or 3090Mhz?

I just rebooted to check what the corresponding page looks like for me. Seems normal, under DRAM status it shows each stick with the default (not overclocked) frequency, under information it shows the actual frequency it's running at. Only strange that for you the actual frequency is higher than the 3000MHz set in the XMP profile. But it is running at the higher clock speed.
 

Skii

Member
I just rebooted to check what the corresponding page looks like for me. Seems normal, under DRAM status it shows each stick with the default (not overclocked) frequency, under information it shows the actual frequency it's running at. Only strange that for you the actual frequency is higher than the 3000MHz set in the XMP profile. But it is running at the higher clock speed.

Yeah I hope it's not going to mess it up. Thanks for your help :)

Main problem is now that I can't install Windows 10. It asks me to install media drivers. It's Windows 10 pro if that makes any difference. Can't believe I managed to build the entire PC and now I'm stuck at installing the OS. Checked all over the internet with no real answer.
 

ricki42

Member
Yeah I hope it's not going to mess it up. Thanks for your help :)

Main problem is now that I can't install Windows 10. It asks me to install media drivers. It's Windows 10 pro if that makes any difference. Can't believe I managed to build the entire PC and now I'm stuck at installing the OS. Checked all over the internet with no real answer.

I don't know anything about Windows, but aren't there drivers on the DVD that came with the motherboard? If you don't have a DVD drive, you can find the files here.
 

Skii

Member
I don't know anything about Windows, but aren't there drivers on the DVD that came with the motherboard? If you don't have a DVD drive, you can find the files here.

Oh, I'm supposed to install those first? I thought I'd install the OS and then install the drivers. Okay, I'll do that tomorrow morning and see how things fair. Thanks.
 

Mystic654

Member
1. Currently what is the best version of 980 Ti ( I believe I have room for hybrid version)

2. What is the best Watercooling AIO (140mm Fans)

---

NM I saw EK is bring out their own AIO that can expand to your GPU. I will grab EVGA hydro Copper and make a loop using EK AIO.
 

Swig_

Member
Is there much of a difference between RAM speeds? For example, DDR4 2133 vs 2400 or 2600?

I need to buy RAM for my new build (980, i7 6700), but I'm not sure which RAM to get. It has to be DDR4.
 

Lurky

Member
Oops I forgot to post my specs earlier...

i7 5820k
asus rampage V extreme
cooler master hyper 212 evo
EVGA supernova 1000G2
gigabyte GTX 980 ti
corsair vengeance LPX 16GB 4x4
corsair air 540
CM storm quickfire TX
logitech g502
 
I will ask this here as I do not want to create a thread just for this question.

I have two routers in my home. There is the main router to which the modem is connected, and there's another one in my room on the second floor, which is wirelessly connected to the main router. I need that second router in my room so that my tower computer can have internet, as it does not have wifi. Everything works.

My question is: if my main router does not support the 5GHz frequency while my second router does, does it mean that I won't be able to use that 5GHz frequency of my second router to connect to other devices, say, my Macbook? Or does it not matter?

I'm asking because my Macbook is not seeing the 5GHz frequency of my second router when searching for networks. The 5GHz frequency has its own SSID, distinct from the 2.4 one.
 

hitgirl

Member
How much should I ask for my old PC?

i5 3570k delid @ 4.6ghz
Asus GTX 780
Asus Maximus V Gene Motherboard
8GB Gskill Ram
Corsair H100i
Corsair Power Supply w/ braided cables AX 760i
Samsung 130GB SSD
Corsair 140 mm fan x 2
Corsair 120mm fan x 2
Corsair 350D
 
Guys I'm really struggling. I got a new mobo and chip, shipped, just in case, but I want to make sure the ram will work. It is not in the compatibility list in the manual, but very close ones are (like a 4x4gb set). Should I assume that the memory just won't work and order new ones? I booted the computer with no mem and heard no beeps that's why I got a new mobo and chip.

Previous post:

NeoGAF, yesterday I had all my parts. I built the computer, and got the memok problem, no POST, on my ASUS A170-A.

Is there a known compatibility issue between the ASUS A170-A Board and these Ripjaws?


Cant find any on the internet and based on the walkthroughs I did, it's either that, the CPU, or the motherboard being broken.

My Part List
 

ricki42

Member
Is there much of a difference between RAM speeds? For example, DDR4 2133 vs 2400 or 2600?

I need to buy RAM for my new build (980, i7 6700), but I'm not sure which RAM to get. It has to be DDR4.

There seems to be some conflicting information for RAM speed and skylake, see this post and this post earlier in this thread. According to those plots, in Watch_dogs the faster RAM improves the performance quite a bit, in GTA V it makes almost no difference. I'd say go for faster if you can afford it.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Guys I'm really struggling. I got a new mobo and chip, shipped, just in case, but I want to make sure the ram will work. It is not in the compatibility list in the manual, but very close ones are (like a 4x4gb set). Should I assume that the memory just won't work and order new ones? I booted the computer with no mem and heard no beeps that's why I got a new mobo and chip.

Previous post:

NeoGAF, yesterday I had all my parts. I built the computer, and got the memok problem, no POST, on my ASUS A170-A.

Is there a known compatibility issue between the ASUS A170-A Board and these Ripjaws?


Cant find any on the internet and based on the walkthroughs I did, it's either that, the CPU, or the motherboard being broken.

My Part List
1 stick of RAM in primary slot (consult manual)
Make sure 24 and 4/8 mobo power are connected
If still no go, remove everything from case and setup barebones (CPU, 1 stick of RAM, no HDD, no DVD, etc.) and see if it works
 
1 stick of RAM in primary slot (consult manual)
Make sure 24 and 4/8 mobo power are connected
If still no go, remove everything from case and setup barebones (CPU, 1 stick of RAM, no HDD, no DVD, etc.) and see if it works

I did, even out of the case. It was a no go. Blinking memok light and no beeps. Same situation if no mem stick at all. So I (kinda) know mobo or cpu is busted. But still don't know if memory will work (waiting for replacement parts). Stressed out cause I'm taking a vacation and may run out of the warranty period. It's been a lot of fun to learn how to build a pc, just feel I had one of the worst possible outcomes.
 

KScorp

Member
Anyone have any recommendations for an uninterruptible power supply? It needs to handle a high end desktop and two large monitors for a short time (<10 minutes).
 

ricki42

Member
I did, even out of the case. It was a no go. Blinking memok light and no beeps. Same situation if no mem stick at all. So I (kinda) know mobo or cpu is busted. But still don't know if memory will work (waiting for replacement parts). Stressed out cause I'm taking a vacation and may run out of the warranty period. It's been a lot of fun to learn how to build a pc, just feel I had one of the worst possible outcomes.

Just to make sure: did you push the sticks all the way in until the latches at the end of the slots snapped shut? Those can be a bit stiff. Did you try both sticks separately in both slot A_1 and B_1? Did any other lights or the CPU fan come on?
 

Grassy

Member
NeoGAF, yesterday I had all my parts. I built the computer, and got the memok problem, no POST, on my ASUS A170-A.

Is there a known compatibility issue between the ASUS A170-A Board and these Ripjaws?


Cant find any on the internet and based on the walkthroughs I did, it's either that, the CPU, or the motherboard being broken.

My Part List

You probably should have gone for the new Ripjaws V, which is designed specifically for compatibility with these new Z170 boards + CPUs.
Best bet might be to contact wherever you bought the RAM from and explain the situation, and they may let you exchange it. You can only try.
 
Just to make sure: did you push the sticks all the way in until the latches at the end of the slots snapped shut? Those can be a bit stiff. Did you try both sticks separately in both slot A_1 and B_1? Did any other lights or the CPU fan come on?
yes I did, and I did in both slots, cup and chassis fans were on, only light was mem.
 
You probably should have gone for the new Ripjaws V, which is designed specifically for compatibility with these new Z170 boards + CPUs.
Best bet might be to contact wherever you bought the RAM from and explain the situation, and they may let you exchange it. You can only try.

Did this, only ended up being down $20 restocking fee. Thanks for the suggestion, was leaning towards something like this anyway.
 

low-G

Member
You probably should have gone for the new Ripjaws V, which is designed specifically for compatibility with these new Z170 boards + CPUs.
Best bet might be to contact wherever you bought the RAM from and explain the situation, and they may let you exchange it. You can only try.

FWIW (for the other guy) I'm using the Ripjaws V 3000MHz on my Z170-A and have had no problems up to BIOS / XMP.

Going to install Windows tomorrow.
 
Since the Phanteks Evolv ATX case American release has been delayed for weeks now, I'm now looking at the Fractal Define S. I am looking to replace its single 140 intake fan for three 120s. Is it just me or are case fan cables generally too short to reach the motherboard, in regards to this case?
 

Sequincer

Neo Member
Since the Phanteks Evolv ATX case American release has been delayed for weeks now, I'm now looking at the Fractal Define S. I am looking to replace its single 140 intake fan for three 120s. Is it just me or are case fan cables generally too short to reach the motherboard, in regards to this case?

There are only two fans that come with the case so I think they can reach pretty easily. I bought the windowless version and replaced all the fans and had to use extenders to get the cables where I wanted them to go.

One thing people fail to realize is that if you bought a premium motherboard that has true PWM fan capability on the chassis fan headers, you can easily control your fans in the bios and just buy yourself a $15 Phanteks fan hub. That is what I did to control all my fans.
 

RGM79

Member
Oh, I'm supposed to install those first? I thought I'd install the OS and then install the drivers. Okay, I'll do that tomorrow morning and see how things fair. Thanks.

What are you doing exactly? Are you trying to install Windows from a USB drive?

Do you have the USB drive plugged into a USB 2.0 or 3.0 port?

Would anyone care to recommend me some DDR3 ram?

Currently have Mushkin Blackline 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL9 DIMM in my system, and want to bump up to 16GB. Needs to be dual channel as my CPU cooler blocks one of my slots. i5 2500K and a P8Z68-V PRO mobo. Thanks!

PS here is a link to my old ram: http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_311_312_612&item_id=044295

There's this GeIL Black Dragon 2x4GB kit for $60, it's low profile so it'll fit under the cooler and it's black to at least match the color of your existing RAM if that matters to you. You may still need to remove the cooler and/or the fan first to install it, but it should fit under.

That kit is rated for the same speed and latency as your existing RAM, so it should work well.

Is it worth upgrading from a 6950 1GB (don't ask) to play Gears Ultimate and Rise of the Tomb Raider? Really don't want to spend more than $200.

Will be playing on a 1080p monitor and strongly prefer 60fps
i5 3450 (i won't be upgrading this)
8GB DDR3
Corsair 650w

Assuming you're in the US, for $200 (after rebate) you can get an 4GB version of the R9 380 or a GTX 960, and that'll definitely let you play at 60FPS on high-ish settings. Both will be a considerably strong upgrade from your 6950. You might need to tweak a bit to get it at a solid 60, though. Your processor is still alright, the i5 3450 is decent and should be able to handle 60FPS.

If you're interested in MGSV:TPP at all, then you should know that currently there is a promotion for a free redeemable code bundled with the GTX 960. Accordingly, these two models of the GTX 960 have 4GB of VRAM and are at the upper end of your budget:

EVGA GTX 960 Superclocked for $200

Gigabyte GTX 960 OC for $203

Both are similar, not a huge amount of difference between the two. I believe both have a three year warranty. Just to be fair, there's also the AMD option:

Powercolor R9 380 PCS+ for $220 (includes $20 gift card)


It doesn't come with a game and the gift card can't be applied to the same purchase I think, so I don't think it's not quite as good a deal as the GTX 960. If you're looking for cheaper options, there's also the R9 280X. I don't recommend a 2GB graphics card at this point in time, a lot of games even now and especially in the future could and can use up more than 2GB.
 

Oogedei

Member
So are the Ripjaws 4 2x8GB 3000mhz definitely not compatible with the 1151 Asus boards? (Got a 170 pro gaming)? Need this information so I may send them back before the time is up (don't have all the components yet). Can somebody please confirm this or is the RAM of this dude just broken?
 

Evo X

Member
And so my luck with getting awesome chips continues!

Got a rock solid 4.5Ghz overclock going on all cores at only 1.21v.

Passed my suite of tests with flying colors.

An hour of AIDA64 Extreme, encoding an x264 blu ray in Handbrake, Cinebench, and playing some CPU intensive games like Witcher 3, BF4, GTA 5, and Crysis 3.
 

Kudo

Member
Oh, I'm supposed to install those first? I thought I'd install the OS and then install the drivers. Okay, I'll do that tomorrow morning and see how things fair. Thanks.

Use the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool and create yourself bootable USB with Windows 10 Pro 64bit. I don't think you can install any drivers before having the OS on (except BIOS updates), but I could be wrong.

I have the same motherboard as you and the USB worked great for me. Skylake dropped support for the old USB eHCI so you can't install Windows 7 anymore through USB, it will give you the driver error too.
 

Daffy Duck

Member
I take it buying a freesync monitor is pointless if you'll be running an Nvidia card?

Amazon have a deal of the day for an Acer XG270H at £270, which seems a good deal, but the PC I'd be going with would have a GTX 970.
 
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