Yeah, I don't see Nvidia supporting FreeSync anytime soon.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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ohyouagain
Member
According to the latest rumours, the GTX 950 has a TDP of 90 W. That's a deal breaker for people like me who rely on smaller PSUs since it now needs a 6-in connector to work. It kinda sucks. I've been waiting for a successor to my 750Ti for quite some time now.
750Ti is maxwell though, so 950 is a bit more powerful, same architecture. Only a new architecture is going to get what you are looking for.
Yes, I made an install on the USB for Windows Pro 10 using the media creation tool on Microsoft's website.
My motherboard/case only has 3.0 USB ports I believe (with one USB 3.1 on motherboard). Is that a problem?
Yeah, I just researched it and I can't do drivers until after the OS is installed. I already made the USB and it just kept telling me I need to install a media driver. I've formatted the USB and redownloading it again. Maybe something was corrupted last time.
Did you download Windows 10 or Windows 10 Pro?
T
Transhuman
Unconfirmed Member
So my current computer of 3 years is a laptop I fished out of a bin. Now that I have money I'm looking to buy something that won't crash daily and repeatedly, so what GPU would you suggest to go with this build I've made up? I started building in reverse based on what deals I could find online. No overclocking, just looking for an averagely priced GPU that can take advantage of what I've got so far.
i5-4690
Asrock H97M Pro4
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3-1600
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5"
Corsaid CX 600W
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Fractal Design Define Case
All open to suggestions for changes.
i5-4690
Asrock H97M Pro4
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3-1600
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5"
Corsaid CX 600W
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Fractal Design Define Case
All open to suggestions for changes.
TwistedMind
Neo Member
I am building a PC for a friend . Here is what i came up with http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MMKtTW
Since he doesn't want to overclock but planning to in the future i see no need for CPU cooler and the stock one will suffice .
Any recommendations about this build ,anything I should change ?!
Since he doesn't want to overclock but planning to in the future i see no need for CPU cooler and the stock one will suffice .
Any recommendations about this build ,anything I should change ?!
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Well, the stock cooler is loud and hot, even if he only plans to I say it's best to put one custom cooler in now so that it will be more silent and less hassle later.
Otherwise looks good.
I'm confused, did you add the Hyper 212 Evo afterwards? Anyway, it's better to get low-profile RAM with that cooler so it'll fit under the fan. If you've already bought the RAM, you can accommodate it by mounting the cooler fan a bit higher, the case should have enough space.
T
Transhuman
Unconfirmed Member
Oh, oops.Since you didn't link your build it just brought me to the last build I was looking at. Can't say anything about your build then. Did you post it anywhere?
Edit: wrong quote, should have replied to TwistedMind.
Kudo
Member
Win 10 Pro 64bit.
After the USB drive is ready, plug it in, go to BIOS and select the UEFI USB Stick in Boot Menu (Button near bottom right corner).
T
Transhuman
Unconfirmed Member
You confusing me with the other guy. I wouldn't mind feedback on my build though if you have any. It's missing a GPU.
I tried Windows 10 Pro 64bit and it didn't work. Well I'm going to try Windows 10 home and see if that works. If not, I don't really know what else to do. Could it be the USB?
DiscoShark
Banned
Gosh, Im super antsy waiting for my parts to arrive, gonna be my first build.
One thing I'm worried about is that I ended up getting a Corsair CX 600M before reading the, frankly, terrifying impressions and negative feedback surrounding the CX series of stuff they've put out. I'm genuinely considering at this point just putting off the build another 3-4 days, eating the inevitable restocking fee from newegg, sending the part back unopened, and picking up something that I won't fear has the chance of spontaneously catching on fire. Am I being paranoid here or should I just go ahead and build the damned thing when my parts arrive? It does seem to be backed with a 3 year warranty on Corsair's site ... which doesn't seem to have effected the number of people saying that the part has a tendency of dying within the first month of operation.
One thing I'm worried about is that I ended up getting a Corsair CX 600M before reading the, frankly, terrifying impressions and negative feedback surrounding the CX series of stuff they've put out. I'm genuinely considering at this point just putting off the build another 3-4 days, eating the inevitable restocking fee from newegg, sending the part back unopened, and picking up something that I won't fear has the chance of spontaneously catching on fire. Am I being paranoid here or should I just go ahead and build the damned thing when my parts arrive? It does seem to be backed with a 3 year warranty on Corsair's site ... which doesn't seem to have effected the number of people saying that the part has a tendency of dying within the first month of operation.
Kudo
Member
Running out of ideas, the USB method should work and the version of Windows makes no difference unless something during the download went wrong.
If your USB stick is not faulty try these:
Do you have DVD/CD-drive plugged in? If yes, disconnect the cables for the OS installation.
Is the drive you're installing OS to in the "OS Drive" section of the SATA in motherboard? Shouldn't make any difference but could try if not.
Disconnect all unnecessary USB devices before the installation, just leave keyboard/mouse/USB stick.
If you can, send it back and eat the few dollars loss for it.
PSU is really important part of the build and something with great soldering, circuitry and capacitors make the system run stable and even if your power suddenly goes out you don't have to worry about that killing your machine, the PSU will protect your components in most situations. In the past I had Thermaltake power supply that killed my HDD during power outage, so I tend to stress this.
The CX-series is known for being little cheap with all those, CX600M being no different.
It should run the computer, but in the long run I wouldn't bet on it to last longer than the 3 years warranty.
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html
I recommend picking something from the Tier One, Super Flowers and XFX are also very affordable.
ignaciogc
Member
I have a quick question regarding the latest update to the Skylake builds:
I was planning on following the "Enthusiast" list to create my build, but wanted to use the MicroATX build with the Corsair 240 case. I had gotten a couple things (SSD, RAM) in preparation for this build: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ignaciogc/saved/ZcPWGX
However, with the new updates it seems like a MicroATX build would be much harder (Asus Z170-A is not MicroATX), and the RAM that I got is not DDR4.
The OP mentions that SkyLake is up to 25% faster per clock which seems like a big difference... Should I take the hit on the RAM and forget about MicroATX and update to the new Enthusiast build, or go for what I had in mind.
PS: I haven't done a build in a decade, so I'm a bit rusty and want to make sure everything works right ...
Thanks
I was planning on following the "Enthusiast" list to create my build, but wanted to use the MicroATX build with the Corsair 240 case. I had gotten a couple things (SSD, RAM) in preparation for this build: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ignaciogc/saved/ZcPWGX
However, with the new updates it seems like a MicroATX build would be much harder (Asus Z170-A is not MicroATX), and the RAM that I got is not DDR4.
The OP mentions that SkyLake is up to 25% faster per clock which seems like a big difference... Should I take the hit on the RAM and forget about MicroATX and update to the new Enthusiast build, or go for what I had in mind.
PS: I haven't done a build in a decade, so I'm a bit rusty and want to make sure everything works right ...
Thanks
Just tried Windows 10 home and I got the same problem again :/
The download of Windows 10 home/pro seems to go fine. The USB is always formatted before I go to download again. I even done a proper format to see if there was any bad sectors on the USB but nothing was brought up to my attention.
I have no DVD/CD drive in my PC.
What I'm installing my OS to is the M.2 SSD but that is obviously a chip that I attached to the motherboard. Should I plug my HDD to the OS drive?
Even then, when I go to install, it just shows set up for around 5 seconds before telling me that I need to install a media driver. I don't even get to choose where to install the OS.
Only things in the USB ports are the wireless receiver for the keyboard/mouse and the USB with the OS downloaded.
I really can't think of a reason why it won't download.
Yeah, I already noticed and edited. It's too early to post...
I looked at your build, and I think it looks good. You could look at getting a different PSU, the Corsair CX got some not so great reviews, but if you got a good deal, it's still OK. You could also go with low-profile RAM, but if you use only 2 sticks, it should fit with the cooler. You don't specify which Fractal Design Define you're getting. The Mini is mATX, R4 and R5 are ATX. Since you have a mATX motherboard you could get a microATX case, save some space.
What's your budget for the GPU?
So when and where do you get the notification to install media drivers? I assumed that was during the Windows installation, but it sounds like you don't get that far.
TwistedMind
Neo Member
Any alternatives for the cx600m about the same price since you guys don't recommend it !
I'm re-downloading Windows 10 Pro on my USB stick again and will try one more time. Didn't format by USB this time and will just let the tool do it for me.
After I've done that, I'll take pictures of each screen so it's a bit clearer.
Also I've ordered another USB because I don't understand what else could be the problem.
Kudo
Member
Did you change anything in BIOS? In the advanced options somewhere there should be SATA Controller Mode (Or something like that) and you can change that to either AHCI or RAID, it should be AHCI by default but make sure it's that, I think RAID mode needs drivers to work.
Try to disconnect the m.2 drive for a second and just leave HDD in the OS Drive section, just to make sure the m.2 isn't causing the error.
I dont know what motherboard you have, but make sure your Windows 10 Installation USB is plugged into an Intel USB hub and not a 3rd party one. The motherboard manual will detail the different hubs.
Kudo
Member
This is little more expensive, depending on where you live check your local prices to see the price difference:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088
It's great PSU backed up with 7 year warranty, but if you're on tight budget the price difference might be too much though.
I did change some stuff to overclock the RAM. I can't seem to find the Sata Controller mode. I've checked in the advanced mode.
I'll try removing the SSD to see what happens but after I've checked to see if I've accidently got it in RAID.
My M.2 and SATA express mode configuration is SATA express rather than M.2. Could that be causing the problem?
Picking up my CPU tonight at Micro Center. MB and RAM are on schedule to be delivered tomorrow afternoon. Making tomorrow night build night. I'll probably then do a clean windows install over the weekend so I'm all clean and fresh for the new PC. Going to be a big step up from my i7 920.
Is there any good way to carry over important data besides manually saving shit? I cannot stand how many programs and especially games save important shit to the AppData sub folders, not that I really like how many also save to My Documents, shits got like 50 folders in it before you even see an actual document.
Ninite is nice but I just wish there was an easier way to save important data you want to carry over without digging through every little folder, because you always miss something.
Is there any good way to carry over important data besides manually saving shit? I cannot stand how many programs and especially games save important shit to the AppData sub folders, not that I really like how many also save to My Documents, shits got like 50 folders in it before you even see an actual document.
Ninite is nice but I just wish there was an easier way to save important data you want to carry over without digging through every little folder, because you always miss something.
I have the Z170-A motherboard. I've used the case's USB 3.0 ports all times but one where I attached the USB to the 3.0 port on the motherboard. The manual just labels it as "USB 3.0 ports 56 (supports USB 3.1 boost).
My USB is 3-4 years old, is it possible that it's not compatible for some reason? Could it be USB 2.0 and that's causing a problem?
Kudo
Member
It's possible, try changing it and see what happens.
Also try different ports for the USB Stick, 3.0 should be fine as Windows 10 supports that but maybe one of your ports is broken.
EDIT: Reading above it's also possible that your stick is causing it if it's very old USB1.0, I think.
You do have USB 2.0 ports. Try the USB 2.0 ports instead, they're at the far left as you can see in this picture. Windows is probably complaining about not having USB 3.0 drivers.
It might seem counter-intuitive or even wrong, but just because the Windows installer USB will boot from a USB 3.0 port doesn't mean it'll allow you to install without USB 3.0 drivers.
Paying $110 for a gold rated 650 watt power supply is overpriced, even from Seasonic. Better alternatives to the CX600M are the following:
EVGA Supernova B2 750 watt semi-modular bronze for $49 after $30 rebate | Jonny Guru review
XFX TS Series 650 watt non-modular gold for $60 after $25 rebate | Jonny Guru review
Antec High Current Gamer M 620 watt semi-modular bronze for $62 after $20 rebate | Hardware Secrets review
They're all a bit higher in price, but I'd definitely recommend the EVGA if you want quality at a good price.
T
Transhuman
Unconfirmed Member
Maybe about 200USD for the graphics card. I didn't even think about the motherboard being mATX, is there any downside to that besides wasted space? I don't really mind about that, if there's any other comparable motherboards at that price level, i'd be willing to switch. I'm not set on cases either, was considering a Phanteks without a window. As for the PSU, you have any recommendations for something that's reliable and cheap?
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/acer_xb270hu.htm
I have been eyeing one of these but i have my 30" that i dont know where to put then lol. Anyone want a U3014?
I tried 2.0, 3.0 and 3.1 USB ports on my motherboard with no luck.
Here are pictures of what happens when I try and install:
After 5 seconds at this screen, this pops up:
And also, when I tried to exit, my computer froze, forced me to hard power off and then this screen came up when I turned it back on:
Has the overclock caused the problem?
Either way, I hope this makes it a bit clearer (sorry for the terrible image quality).
Here are pictures of what happens when I try and install:
After 5 seconds at this screen, this pops up:
And also, when I tried to exit, my computer froze, forced me to hard power off and then this screen came up when I turned it back on:
Has the overclock caused the problem?
Either way, I hope this makes it a bit clearer (sorry for the terrible image quality).
If that error message is right, it certainly seems possible. I've never really done overclocking on my pcs but wouldn't it be best to get everything installed and stable before you begin overclocking?
Kudo
Member
Reset BIOS and try again.
But I suspect your USB Device could be really old too, you get that same error when you try to install Windows 7 on Skylake computer through USB which it doesn't support.
I don't know for sure if it's possible for the stick itself to be incompatible but worth trying, just get new 8GB USB stick, they're really cheap. I've heard of USB1 devices that don't act well on newer standards.
I thought because my RAM was 3000Mhz, overclocking it wouldn't do much. I've reset the entire settings for now until this is fixed.
Well I took out the M2 SSD and plugged the HDD into the OS drive and I still get the same screens. So I guess it's not the M2. I've ordered a new 3.0 USB which will hopefully rectify the issue. Should arrive tomorrow morning so will continue this then. Hopefully that fixes it.
Thanks for your help
If you're going to keep the monitor for a few years, then maybe nvidia will support VESA adaptive sync, or you might get an AMD GPU in a couple of years.
Kudo
Member
Well I took out the M2 SSD and plugged the HDD into the OS drive and I still get the same screens. So I guess it's not the M2. I've ordered a new 3.0 USB which will hopefully rectify the issue. Should arrive tomorrow morning so will continue this then. Hopefully that fixes it.
Thanks for your help
Read about it online and some people had to enable "Legacy USB mode" in BIOS for Windows 8 when they got the media driver error.
Personally I didn't have to change anything with Z170-A and it worked, but could be also something to look into.
And no problem, hopefully you get your new machine running soon.
Say it isn't so brother.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Done with PC gaming?
I thought because my RAM was 3000Mhz, overclocking it wouldn't do much. I've reset the entire settings for now until this is fixed.
Well I took out the M2 SSD and plugged the HDD into the OS drive and I still get the same screens. So I guess it's not the M2. I've ordered a new 3.0 USB which will hopefully rectify the issue. Should arrive tomorrow morning so will continue this then. Hopefully that fixes it.
Thanks for your help
I don't think it's the USB thumb drive.
Go into the Boot section of BIOS, look for the boot settings relating to UEFI/Legacy boot up. Try switching it to legacy mode.
Hey all, a couple of questions...
So here's my build, I finished putting it together yesterday:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/98sQbv
Basically it's an i5-6600k with 3000MHz RAM.
I just want to do some mild overclocks. I've used my mobo's "EZ" overclock feature to greater success than any manual overclocks (for some reason, even with milder settings). I'm running 41x103=~4.2GHz according to CPUZ.
Question 1: What's a good maximum CPU temperature? So far the highest I've seen was in the low 60's C when running Crysis 3 for a while. Is this OK?
Question 2: I haven't tested with any artificial benchmarks yet, should I? No crashes yet.
Question 3: CPUZ is now reporting memory at ~2888MHz instead of 3000MHz. I had some weird reboot / Windows startup crashes / freezes (after Windows shut down & system goes to reboot, it would freeze, overclock failed) when running the RAM at 3090MHz. Is it just that going even an inch over 3000MHz rated is likely not to consistently work? Even then when in Windows & running games I had no crashes.
Anyways, thanks a lot!
So here's my build, I finished putting it together yesterday:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/98sQbv
Basically it's an i5-6600k with 3000MHz RAM.
I just want to do some mild overclocks. I've used my mobo's "EZ" overclock feature to greater success than any manual overclocks (for some reason, even with milder settings). I'm running 41x103=~4.2GHz according to CPUZ.
Question 1: What's a good maximum CPU temperature? So far the highest I've seen was in the low 60's C when running Crysis 3 for a while. Is this OK?
Question 2: I haven't tested with any artificial benchmarks yet, should I? No crashes yet.
Question 3: CPUZ is now reporting memory at ~2888MHz instead of 3000MHz. I had some weird reboot / Windows startup crashes / freezes (after Windows shut down & system goes to reboot, it would freeze, overclock failed) when running the RAM at 3090MHz. Is it just that going even an inch over 3000MHz rated is likely not to consistently work? Even then when in Windows & running games I had no crashes.
Anyways, thanks a lot!
Here's my advice. Select EZ OC profile for 4.2Ghz. Set to 42x100 not 41x103, that will get the RAM speeds back in spec.
The reboots are likely due to the 103 bclk, and change in memory speeds, usually that will require a few reboots to apply since one effects the other.
Freeze and overclock failed could mean instability, but the oc failed message appears when the PC isn't shut down properly. So just keep that in mind.
You probably increased the RAM speed and didn't adjust the timings.
This is why it's so much better to do it manually. Start with the CPU OC, all you need to do is tweak the Vcore and test with Aida64. Keep temps below 80c and start around 1.2v for 4.2Ghz 42x100. Keep ram at low speeds like 2000Mhz.
Tweak till you find the lowest Vcore with stability.
Now enable XMP profile to bring the ram to 3000Mhz and check the RAM voltage is set properly along with the primary timings.
Tweak from there, possibly memory controller voltage, some additional Vcore maybe needed.
ignaciogc
Member
Sorry for double posting... but it seems I picked a bad time to post, since there was some troubleshooting going on ...
Anyone has any pointers as to my question below?
Thanks
Anyone has any pointers as to my question below?
Thanks
Hi all, I'm in the early stages of researching a Skylake build and I've narrowed down my motherboard choice to two models, the Gigabyte Gaming 3 and 5. I've been trying to compare the two, but for the life of me I can't work out why the 5 is more expensive (~£30) when on paper it seems worse than the 3.
Hopefully this link will work to Gigabytes own comparison: Link
From what I can tell the 'inferior' 3 has better audio as it has the OPA2134 amp which is present in the higher end 7 board, but seems to be missing from the 5.
The advantages the five has are a couple more USBs on the back, a Display Port (which won't be used anyway with a discrete card), some fancy buttons on the board itself which presumably are just BIOS shortcuts and an extra LAN port which won't be used by me.
In all other respects the boards seem nigh-identical.
Please help me out, I feel like I'm missing something obvious.
Hopefully this link will work to Gigabytes own comparison: Link
From what I can tell the 'inferior' 3 has better audio as it has the OPA2134 amp which is present in the higher end 7 board, but seems to be missing from the 5.
The advantages the five has are a couple more USBs on the back, a Display Port (which won't be used anyway with a discrete card), some fancy buttons on the board itself which presumably are just BIOS shortcuts and an extra LAN port which won't be used by me.
In all other respects the boards seem nigh-identical.
Please help me out, I feel like I'm missing something obvious.
Depends on whether you want to build sooner rather than later. Those "up to 25% faster per clock" performance figures are for certain situations and scenarios, Haswell isn't too far behind Skylake in terms of performance and will handle gaming or other intensive duties just fine.
If you don't mind waiting for more Z170 mATX motherboards to become available (not a lot available at this point) and reviewed and can resell the RAM that you already bought, then you could wait for a good Z170 build.
If you don't want to have to sell your existing RAM, then there is this one Z170 mATX motherboard that accepts standard DDR3 RAM, the Asus Z170M-E-D3. I'm a bit wary about recommending these motherboards, though. Skylake seems to benefit more from higher speed RAM than Haswell did (but of course only in certain situations), so I can't freely recommend using DDR3 with Skylake until it is sure that won't be a bottleneck or detriment to future performance.
So I was gunna upgrade my SSD as it is only a 128gb... Anyway was speaking to my boss at work who told me to just add another 128gb and RAID them, RAID 0 were his words.
Now I understand how RAID works, but I am unsure how to set it up and is it worth doing as another 128gb will be considerably cheaper than the 500+ models I was looking at.
Also, how would I put my OS onto my HDD while I do the RAIDing
Cheers.
Now I understand how RAID works, but I am unsure how to set it up and is it worth doing as another 128gb will be considerably cheaper than the 500+ models I was looking at.
Also, how would I put my OS onto my HDD while I do the RAIDing
Cheers.
ignaciogc
Member
Thanks a lot for the pointers. I will probably just go with the Haswell build that I had in mind then. If I were to wait for the Z170 / Skylake build, I would definitely get DDR4 memory, since it all points at better performance and support.
Thanks!
Thanks! Trying this stuff out now. When I use Aida64, which stress test should I focus on? About how long should I run em?
EDIT - Windows also states 100% utilization, so I bet RealTemp is just wrong.
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