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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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ISee

Member
So I am thinking of upgrading my 2500k and going for a mobo/cpu bundle...

Is it actually worth doing yet, or should I hang on?

Skylake seems to be a bit overpriced right now because of high demand (at least in europe). Waiting for amds Zen Cpus to hit store shelves in 6-8 months and hoping for better prices and/or a valid competitor to skylake (we can hope) isn't the worst idea right now. Your 2500k should be able to hold out that long. But on the other side going from a Sandy-Bridge to a Skylake CPU is reasonable if you're looking for extra CPU power.
 

DontBlink

Member
Not really related to the main topic but I made a boo boo:

I was trying to use Samsung Magician to secure delete an ssd drive. Got a "frozen state" notice so I went in to replug the sata cable and accidentally pulled out the power as well. What I didn't notice was that my 3rd drive, and old mechanical hdd, has switched places with the 2nd one I just pulled out (out of C, D, E - I wanted to format D).

SM did not alert me of any change, so I went ahead with the format of what I though was drive D, when it was actually drive E. I did not do any backups because I wasn't planning on touching anything on there. Now I'm out of a year's worth of personal files :(

Is there anything at all that can be done to recover?
 

LilJoka

Member
How is this build ?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€262.64 @ Mindfactory)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€35.49 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€149.92 @ Mindfactory)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (€56.93 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€86.60 @ Mindfactory)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (€349.90 @ Mindfactory)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case (€112.19 @ Mindfactory)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€119.40 @ Mindfactory)
Total: €1173.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-28 22:18 CET+0100

EDit: Maybe I should use a different case and power supply, those seem expensive in germany.

Corsair RMx is better and should be cheaper than RM.
BeQuiet Straight Power 10 would also work and might be cheaper as its German.
You might want to look at mATX case and board, ATX is not really needed these days.

Is there any advantage or why do people do this?

It's cheap, the fan would be assembled on to the heartsink and since its twisted the mounting holes are not obstructed, great for a production line.
 

LilJoka

Member
DVI-D connected to a GTX 970. Does the input method matter?

Could be the cable, try another or try HDMI/DisplayPort. If that fails then rule out the 970. Remove the 970 from the motherboard. Connect the DVI to the motherboard DVI output. See if lines go away. If they do, problem is likely a failed GTX 970. If nothing worked then possibly it's a failed monitor, try your TV or spare monitor.
 
So I just installed a new motherboard, processor, ram, and video card and now I can't get my computer to turn on at all. The power button literally does nothing. No fans, beeps, noises or anything.

I've been looking at this thing for hours but can't figure it out. I feel like everything is connected correctly, but this is my first time so I dont know.

Any tips or things to try?


http://imgur.com/a/vt8tG

Try to remove the video cars and see if it powers up? Did you also check to see if your chassis power switch is connected to the motherboard as well?
 

RGM79

Member
What was the UK part comparison site alternative to pcpartpocker?

Skinflint.co.uk.

My ~3 year old 120GB SSD is nearly full (~7 GB left). Along with my HDD being a little noisy, I'm thinking of going with a 500GB SSD as my only drive for the time being. Since I've never upgraded or changed drives before, what is the process for switching to a new drive and moving everything over (OS, Steam, games, mods etc)?

Use this guide for cloning everything over.

Hey all,

I apologize if this isn't the best place to ask -- I'm looking to purchase an OEM Windows key. I previously read that the Reddit Microsoft software swap is a good place to purchase, however, I have had no luck there.

I have contacted four different sellers advertising within that group, and have never received a reply at all -- is this unusual?

Anyway, I'm wondering if there is another reliable place where I can just purchase an OEM key legitimately and securely. Any ideas?

Thanks :)
Are you specifically looking for a low price? If not you can always buy a retail copy, but maybe try the gaf B/S/T thread.

As for no one replying to you on reddit, maybe they're wary of you if you have a new account that doesn't have many posts on it. While reselling license keys isn't illegal, the reddit thing is kind of a gray market thing, Microsoft does frown on it and try to stop it. I'm guessing that if Microsoft was going to try and track them down and deactivate any keys that they have registered to that person, they might try contacting the user and trying to buy a key. They get a license key, they can trace it back to where the key was originally going to. And if the keys come from academic programs like I suspect, that means they can contact the school/university and get back the student's name.

Which is the better investment, i5-6500 or i5-4690k?

For long term performance and overclocking, it'd be the i5 4690K.

Not really related to the main topic but I made a boo boo:

I was trying to use Samsung Magician to secure delete an ssd drive. Got a "frozen state" notice so I went in to replug the sata cable and accidentally pulled out the power as well. What I didn't notice was that my 3rd drive, and old mechanical hdd, has switched places with the 2nd one I just pulled out (out of C, D, E - I wanted to format D).

SM did not alert me of any change, so I went ahead with the format of what I though was drive D, when it was actually drive E. I did not do any backups because I wasn't planning on touching anything on there. Now I'm out of a year's worth of personal files :(

Is there anything at all that can be done to recover?
I think you need to speak to a data recovery company, there isn't much that a home user can do himself.
 

RGM79

Member
How is the price for this PC? 1199€


- Intel® Core™ i7-6700K Prozessor (4 x 4.00 - 4.20 GHz)
- 8192 MB DDR4 Speicher
- 1000 GB Festplatte SATA III
- 22x DVD Double Layer Brenner
- 4096 MB NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 970
- MSI Z170A PC Mate Mainboard
- 650 Watt Corsair V650

http://www.one.de/shop/one-computer...-nvidia-geforce-gtx970-p-8828.html?tab=1#tabs

How is this build ?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€262.64 @ Mindfactory)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€35.49 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€149.92 @ Mindfactory)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (€56.93 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€86.60 @ Mindfactory)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (€349.90 @ Mindfactory)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case (€112.19 @ Mindfactory)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€119.40 @ Mindfactory)
Total: €1173.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-28 22:18 CET+0100

EDit: Maybe I should use a different case and power supply, those seem expensive in germany.

For a budget of 1200 Euros, this is what I recommend. It's a lot more cost-effective for your budget.


1 x Samsung SSD 850 Evo 500GB, SATA (MZ-75E500B)
1 x Intel Core i5-6600K, 4x 3.50GHz, boxed ohne Kühler (BX80662I56600K)
1 x GeIL Dragon RAM white IC DIMM Kit 8GB, DDR4-3000, CL15-17-17-35 (GWW48GB3000C15DC)
1 x Zotac GeForce GTX 970 AMP!, 4GB GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort (ZT-90110-10P)
1 x Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI
1 x Cryorig H5 Universal (CR-5HA)
1 x Fractal Design Define S, schallgedämmt (FD-CA-DEF-S-BK)
1 x EVGA SuperNOVA B2 750 750W ATX 2.3 (110-B2-0750-VR)
Summe aller Bestpreise: € 1147,62
 
Not really related to the main topic but I made a boo boo:

I was trying to use Samsung Magician to secure delete an ssd drive. Got a "frozen state" notice so I went in to replug the sata cable and accidentally pulled out the power as well. What I didn't notice was that my 3rd drive, and old mechanical hdd, has switched places with the 2nd one I just pulled out (out of C, D, E - I wanted to format D).

SM did not alert me of any change, so I went ahead with the format of what I though was drive D, when it was actually drive E. I did not do any backups because I wasn't planning on touching anything on there. Now I'm out of a year's worth of personal files :(

Is there anything at all that can be done to recover?

If a secure erase was actually performed, everything on that drive is gone. That's what secure erase does—it permanently removes EVERYTHING beyond the point of recovery.

If, however, the secure erase had just only started, you may be able to use PhotoRec. Note that because the drive was formatted, directories and file names will not be recoverable, so you'll have to manually sort through everything you find. Do not use/touch the drive for anything other than running Photorec, and make sure that PhotoRec saves the recovered files to some place other than the drive itself.
 
How is it secured? I don't actually see any screws in the fan screw holes (you can see the PCB/heatsink through them on the lower half).

There are mounting points built into the heatsink.

41sodquU6jL._SX425_.jpg
 

Endy MacK

Member
Are you specifically looking for a low price? If not you can always buy a retail copy, but maybe try the gaf B/S/T thread.

As for no one replying to you on reddit, maybe they're wary of you if you have a new account that doesn't have many posts on it. While reselling license keys isn't illegal, the reddit thing is kind of a gray market thing, Microsoft does frown on it and try to stop it. I'm guessing that if Microsoft was going to try and track them down and deactivate any keys that they have registered to that person, they might try contacting the user and trying to buy a key. They get a license key, they can trace it back to where the key was originally going to. And if the keys come from academic programs like I suspect, that means they can contact the school/university and get back the student's name.

Thank you for your insight -- this makes a lot of sense now, knowing that it is kind of a grey market; I was not aware.

Yes, I am specifically looking for a lower price than retail. I will try the B/S/T thread. I would feel a lot more comfortable purchasing from GAF, if I could.
 

manfestival

Member
Even though I have already made my decision on picking up the 970. I am curious as to why so many guides online recommend it over the 390/380 but then I see people on forums freaking out saying the 970 is garbage and that real time performance for the 970 not even on par with the 380 and the 380 is much less in price?
 
Corsair RMx is better and should be cheaper than RM.
BeQuiet Straight Power 10 would also work and might be cheaper as its German.
You might want to look at mATX case and board, ATX is not really needed these days.



It's cheap, the fan would be assembled on to the heartsink and since its twisted the mounting holes are not obstructed, great for a production line.


Thanks, will look into that.
 

Neil_J_UK

Member
I'm going to be building my first PC when I get home, and I have a couple of questions about airflow. What would be the best way to set up the fans/cooling in the Fractal Design Define S? I have a 280mm radiator for my Corsair H110 and 2 case fans, I haven't bought any extra fans.


I was thinking of putting the H110 radiator/fans in the front bottom 2 slots (intake fans?) with another intake fan in the top front slot, then an exhaust fan in the top rear to create a nice 'lane' of airflow, then I was considering adding another top exhaust fan closest to the rear.

Does anyone have any better suggestions or improvements? Cheers!
 

Harlequin

Member
I'm looking into building myself a new desktop PC (been mostly a console gamer these past few years) but I'm a total noob when it comes to hardware. My go-to computer tech guy has helped me make a list of some parts that could go into it but he's unsure which graphics card I should pick so perhaps someone on here can help me?

Potential Specs:
CPU: Intel Core i5 4690k (3,5Ghz)
RAM: 16GB
Motherboard: MSI B85M-E45
PSU: Will depend on which graphics card I end up choosing
HDD: 1TB (+ 450GB SSD) (I can't remember the specifics, I'm afraid.)
Graphics Card: So my computer guy's suggestion was to go with a GTX 960 but I'm not sure if that's quite powerful enough. So the question is if a) a GTX 960 is sufficient for my requirements (see below), b) if the extra power a GTX 970 or 980 would bring to the table is really worth the extra money in my case and c) if I could even use the 970's or 980's full horsepower with the rig described above or if there'd be any bottlenecks somewhere which would render those cards' additional power redundant. (For some reason my computer guy never even mentioned the 970, though, when I talked to him.)

Budget: My budget for the whole thing is around 1000-1200€ but I'd be willing to pay a bit more if I thought it was really worth it. However, according to my computer tech guy the 980 would increase the price from roughly 1100€ (with a 960, again, he never even mentioned the 970 for some reason) to about 1500€ and I'm not quite sure if I'm willing to pay that much. (Country: Germany.)

Main Use: I'd like to be able to play current-gen games with max or near-max settings at 1080p (ideally at 60fps).Additionally, I'll be using the computer to work in Unreal Engine 4, do some sculpting in Mudbox (and maybe ZBrush), modelling in Maya and PBR texturing in Photoshop/Quixel.

Monitor Resolution: 1080p. No plans to upgrade anytime soon.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
Games: General current-gen stuff like Witcher 3, Mirror's Edge: Catalyst, Assassin's Creed: Syndicate, Rise of the Tomb Raider, etc. Ideally, I'd like to be able to play at 60fps (though it doesn't need to be rock-solid 60fps). I don't need to be able to do supersampling/MSAA.
Applications: Photoshop/Quixel, Mudbox/Zbrush/Maya, Unreal Engine 4 (working on something linear, non-open-world that's got roughly current-gen-console level graphics, maybe a bit worse).

When will you build?: Soon. Within the next month.

Will you be overclocking?: Maybe, if I find the time (and courage :p) for it.

So yeah, my specific questions are the bolded ones in the graphics card paragraph. I hope I didn't forget anything but if I did, please let me know. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated :)!
 

RGM79

Member
Even though I have already made my decision on picking up the 970. I am curious as to why so many guides online recommend it over the 390/380 but then I see people on forums freaking out saying the 970 is garbage and that real time performance for the 970 not even on par with the 380 and the 380 is much less in price?

Real time performance? I don't understand what that is. The one issue about the GTX 970 is that only 3.5GB of it's 4GB of VRAM works well, the last 0.5GB runs at a much lower speed. If games were to use up more VRAM than 3.5GB, it's possible for the GTX 970 to be bottlenecked and perform worse than it would actually be capable of. The GTX 970's long term viability is somewhat questionable (depends on how much VRAM future games will end up using), but for now it is still easy to recommend as an excellent graphics card for 1080p gaming.

I'm going to be building my first PC when I get home, and I have a couple of questions about airflow. What would be the best way to set up the fans/cooling in the Fractal Design Define S? I have a 280mm radiator for my Corsair H110 and 2 case fans, I haven't bought any extra fans.

I was thinking of putting the H110 radiator/fans in the front bottom 2 slots (intake fans?) with another intake fan in the top front slot, then an exhaust fan in the top rear to create a nice 'lane' of airflow, then I was considering adding another top exhaust fan closest to the rear.

Does anyone have any better suggestions or improvements? Cheers!

The layout as you are planning it should work just fine.

I'm looking into building myself a new desktop PC (been mostly a console gamer these past few years) but I'm a total noob when it comes to hardware. My go-to computer tech guy has helped me make a list of some parts that could go into it but he's unsure which graphics card I should pick so perhaps someone on here can help me?

Potential Specs:
CPU: Intel Core i5 4690k (3,5Ghz)
RAM: 16GB
Motherboard: MSI B85M-E45
PSU: Will depend on which graphics card I end up choosing
HDD: 1TB (+ 450GB SSD) (I can't remember the specifics, I'm afraid.)
Graphics Card: So my computer guy's suggestion was to go with a GTX 960 but I'm not sure if that's quite powerful enough. So the question is if a) a GTX 960 is sufficient for my requirements (see below), b) if the extra power a GTX 970 or 980 would bring to the table is really worth the extra money in my case and c) if I could even use the 970's or 980's full horsepower with the rig described above or if there'd be any bottlenecks somewhere which would render those cards' additional power redundant. (For some reason my computer guy never even mentioned the 970, though, when I talked to him.)

Budget: My budget for the whole thing is around 1000-1200€ but I'd be willing to pay a bit more if I thought it was really worth it. However, according to my computer tech guy the 980 would increase the price from roughly 1100€ (with a 960, again, he never even mentioned the 970 for some reason) to about 1500€ and I'm not quite sure if I'm willing to pay that much. (Country: Germany.)

Main Use: I'd like to be able to play current-gen games with max or near-max settings at 1080p (ideally at 60fps).Additionally, I'll be using the computer to work in Unreal Engine 4, do some sculpting in Mudbox (and maybe ZBrush), modelling in Maya and PBR texturing in Photoshop/Quixel.

Monitor Resolution: 1080p. No plans to upgrade anytime soon.

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
Games: General current-gen stuff like Witcher 3, Mirror's Edge: Catalyst, Assassin's Creed: Syndicate, Rise of the Tomb Raider, etc. Ideally, I'd like to be able to play at 60fps (though it doesn't need to be rock-solid 60fps). I don't need to be able to do supersampling/MSAA.
Applications: Photoshop/Quixel, Mudbox/Zbrush/Maya, Unreal Engine 4 (working on something linear, non-open-world that's got roughly current-gen-console level graphics, maybe a bit worse).

When will you build?: Soon. Within the next month.

Will you be overclocking?: Maybe, if I find the time (and courage :p) for it.

So yeah, my specific questions are the bolded ones in the graphics card paragraph. I hope I didn't forget anything but if I did, please let me know. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated :)!

Pairing an i5 4690K with a B85 motherboard is an odd setup, but it can work. Yes, a GTX 970 is definitely preferable over a GTX 960 for the extra performance. A GTX 970 will allow for 60FPS at most of the latest games at reasonably high-ish settings. The GTX 980 is not recommended (not because it's a bad graphics card but) because the performance it offers over the GTX 970 is not that great for the price increase.

Take a look at this parts list I posted just yesterday for a 1200 Euro budget in Germany. It's more capable for gaming than the parts list your go-to tech guy listed, but it does have less RAM (8GB is still enough for most situations) and no HDD, just a single 500GB SSD (add a 1TB drive and it'll still total less than 1200 Euros). Tweak that parts list and it should meet your needs quite well and fit inside your budget.
 

dareacher

Banned
alright so im about to buy my gtx980ti but there are so many models with somewhat of a pricegap....which should i got for? does it matter? i have 1 in particular that is like 60% cheaper but the core clock is at 1000mhz instead 1178.... I have no idea what to do and what to buy. Can you guys help?
 

DontBlink

Member
I think you need to speak to a data recovery company, there isn't much that a home user can do himself.

If a secure erase was actually performed, everything on that drive is gone. That's what secure erase does—it permanently removes EVERYTHING beyond the point of recovery.

If, however, the secure erase had just only started, you may be able to use PhotoRec. Note that because the drive was formatted, directories and file names will not be recoverable, so you'll have to manually sort through everything you find. Do not use/touch the drive for anything other than running Photorec, and make sure that PhotoRec saves the recovered files to some place other than the drive itself.


Thanks for the replies, but seems like everything is gone since the erase process did complete :(
 

Kezen

Banned
alright so im about to buy my gtx980ti but there are so many models with somewhat of a pricegap....which should i got for? does it matter? i have 1 in particular that is like 60% cheaper but the core clock is at 1000mhz instead 1178.... I have no idea what to do and what to buy. Can you guys help?

Well of course the clock speed matters. It's not complicated, if you want more performance go for the fastest clock (but you can also OC it yourself).
 

NeoFaff

Member
Hey guys can someone recommend a new itx/matx mobo for a 2600k that I can buy in the UK?

My current Gigabyte Z77MX-D3H board has been giving me problems since I got it. It will randomly go into a boot loop saying the BIOS needs to be repaired/reflashed. Going into the bios and exiting fixes it for a few weeks. I don't want to deal with this z77 gigabyte garbage anymore. :L
 

Trokil

Banned
I want to buy this one.

Yes, I know it is prebuilt, but it's on sale at the moment and 40% cheaper.

So what do you think, is it something good?


http://www.acer.co.uk/ac/en/GB/content/predator-g6-series


Windows 10 64bit (pre-installed)
Intel® Core™ i7-6700K Processor
NVIDIA GeForce Nvidia GTX 980 4GB DDR5
Memory: 16 GB
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980
Hard drive: 1 TB & 512 GB SSD

I like it, but I never had an Acer G-Series

It would cost me about 1500 $
 
I want to buy this one.

Yes, I know it is prebuilt, but it's on sale at the moment and 40% cheaper.

So what do you think, is it something good?


http://www.acer.co.uk/ac/en/GB/content/predator-g6-series


Windows 10 64bit (pre-installed)
Intel® Core™ i7-6700K Processor
NVIDIA GeForce Nvidia GTX 980 4GB DDR5
Memory: 16 GB
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980
Hard drive: 1 TB & 512 GB SSD

I like it, but I never had an Acer G-Series

It would cost me about 1500 $

Your link leads to a different rig.

Is that 2nd 980 you listed a mistake or it is indeed a SLI setup?
 

Trokil

Banned
Your link leads to a different rig.

Is that 2nd 980 you listed a mistake or it is indeed a SLI setup?

Yeah, it's a mistake, because I can not link it to the store.

And there are so damn many different g6 specs it's mindblowing.

I can give you this

Intel Core i7-6700K (sixt Generation)
HDD 1000 GB
OS Windows 10 64Bit
SSD 512 GB
NVIDIA GeForce Nvidia GTX 980 4GB DDR5
6x USB 3.0, 2x USB 2.0, 1000 Mbps LAN, 802.11ac WLAN, BD-RW, Card Reader
RAM 16 GB DDR4
 
Yeah, it's a mistake, because I can not link it to the store.

And there are so damn many different g6 specs it's mindblowing.

I can give you this

Intel Core i7-6700K (sixt Generation)
HDD 1000 GB
OS Windows 10 64Bit
SSD 512 GB
NVIDIA GeForce Nvidia GTX 980 4GB DDR5 UEFI DVI HDMI DP ATX
Blu-Ray Burner, Blu-Ray Reader
RAM 16 GB DDR4

I assume you're buying in europe? What's the cost in euros or whatever the local currency is?
 
Even though I have already made my decision on picking up the 970. I am curious as to why so many guides online recommend it over the 390/380 but then I see people on forums freaking out saying the 970 is garbage and that real time performance for the 970 not even on par with the 380 and the 380 is much less in price?

I think most people that say it is garbage are just put off by the whole 3.5 gb of ram thing.

It also uses less energy.
 

Harlequin

Member
Pairing an i5 4690K with a B85 motherboard is an odd setup, but it can work. Yes, a GTX 970 is definitely preferable over a GTX 960 for the extra performance. A GTX 970 will allow for 60FPS at most of the latest games at reasonably high-ish settings. The GTX 980 is not recommended (not because it's a bad graphics card but) because the performance it offers over the GTX 970 is not that great for the price increase.

Take a look at this parts list I posted just yesterday for a 1200 Euro budget in Germany. It's more capable for gaming than the parts list your go-to tech guy listed, but it does have less RAM (8GB is still enough for most situations) and no HDD, just a single 500GB SSD (add a 1TB drive and it'll still total less than 1200 Euros). Tweak that parts list and it should meet your needs quite well and fit inside your budget.

Thanks so much :)! If I were to decide to go above 1200 and get sth better than a 970 (not saying that I will but I haven't completely made up my mind yet), would an R9 Fury be preferable to a GTX 980 from a price/value ratio?
 

kennah

Member
Hey guys can someone recommend a new itx/matx mobo for a 2600k that I can buy in the UK?

My current Gigabyte Z77MX-D3H board has been giving me problems since I got it. It will randomly go into a boot loop saying the BIOS needs to be repaired/reflashed. Going into the bios and exiting fixes it for a few weeks. I don't want to deal with this z77 gigabyte garbage anymore. :L
You'll probably be unable to find anything. That's three generations old by now.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks so much :)! If I were to decide to go above 1200 and get sth better than a 970 (not saying that I will but I haven't completely made up my mind yet), would an R9 Fury be preferable to a GTX 980 from a price/value ratio?

Well going off this TechPowerUp review, the R9 Fury is about equal and/or somewhat better than the GTX 980 depending on what game and resolution you're playing at, but geizhals.de tells me the R9 Fury costs 536 Euros at the cheapest whereas the GTX 980 starts a bit under 500 Euros. Given those prices, you might be better served by going with an R9 390X which starts around 350 Euros but offers ~90% of the performance of the R9 Fury at 1080p gaming.

Hey guys can someone recommend a new itx/matx mobo for a 2600k that I can buy in the UK?

My current Gigabyte Z77MX-D3H board has been giving me problems since I got it. It will randomly go into a boot loop saying the BIOS needs to be repaired/reflashed. Going into the bios and exiting fixes it for a few weeks. I don't want to deal with this z77 gigabyte garbage anymore. :L
What case do you have? You know mITX and mATX are different sizes, right? Like Kennah says, you're not going to have a lot to pick from. Other than looking for used parts, this is all that's listed for sale as brand new. The only Z77 model listed is another Gigabyte model.
 
Hey dudes,

I was wondering the feasibility in turning a small form factor PC into a truly portable machine by somehow attaching a chargeable battery pack, either inside of it, or carry it along side it.

Have been looking at laptops, and want something powerful without sacrificing customizability and without necessarily having to pay for premium laptop parts.

Is it possible?

I was imagining carrying around a small, almost Gamecube like thing with a handle, along with a portable monitor with battery pack.. The idea would be to take a semi competent PC around to do digital painting at events, or just being able to bust it out from a backpack in a cafe and play some games or make some art. What say you Desktop GAF?
 

LilJoka

Member
Hey guys can someone recommend a new itx/matx mobo for a 2600k that I can buy in the UK?

My current Gigabyte Z77MX-D3H board has been giving me problems since I got it. It will randomly go into a boot loop saying the BIOS needs to be repaired/reflashed. Going into the bios and exiting fixes it for a few weeks. I don't want to deal with this z77 gigabyte garbage anymore. :L

eBay is your only real hope, an Asus P8Z77I would be the best, next up Gigabytes Z77 ITX board. mATX on eBay should be easier.
 

RGM79

Member
Hey dudes,

I was wondering the feasibility in turning a small form factor PC into a truly portable machine by somehow attaching a chargeable battery pack, either inside of it, or carry it along side it.

Have been looking at laptops, and want something powerful without sacrificing customizability and without necessarily having to pay for premium laptop parts.

Is it possible?

I was imagining carrying around a small, almost Gamecube like thing with a handle, along with a portable monitor with battery pack.. The idea would be to take a semi competent PC around to do digital painting at events, or just being able to bust it out from a backpack in a cafe and play some games or make some art. What say you Desktop GAF?

Battery systems like that exist for emergencies, they're called uninterruptible power supplies. They're basically meant to let the computer have enough time to finish up whatever it's doing and shut down safely so as to prevent damage and loss of data. They're also quite heavy, so you would be extremely limited by both weight and power. Laptops are much less cumbersome and better suited to what you want to do.
 
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