flyinpiranha
Member
Fantastic, thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Fantastic, thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for.
AstroNut325
Member
Hello,
I'm interested in getting a 27" monitor. Something cheap that will be used primarily for school/office stuff. I will also hook it up my PS4 once it's fixed.
Any recommendations?
I'm interested in getting a 27" monitor. Something cheap that will be used primarily for school/office stuff. I will also hook it up my PS4 once it's fixed.
Any recommendations?
Wowfunhappy
Member
Just an idea I hadwhat would happen if I had two Windows installs on two separate hard discs? I could install only nVidia drivers on one and only AMD drivers on the other. Does this sounds like it might work? (I don't want to go through all the trouble if it probably won't).
Of particular concern: my monitor is plugged into the nVidia GPU, and I don't want to have to unplug and replug it each time. Will this be a problem?
These aren't too bad actually. I'm just looking for something discreet, probably black to match the bookcases that enclose my television. Something people (particularly my wife) would forget is even there.
No, I have no preference where I purchase from. It was just easiest for me to throw everything together on a Amazon wishlist since I don't really have a computer at the moment.
Thank you for the upgraded list. As I said I'm new to building so I'm totally happy with a better performance list for my current budget.
Actually.. I'm not sure if keeping two separate Windows installations will work. On some level, it does make sense, but few people have done anything like that so I have no idea. You will have to disable automatic driver installation as Windows will detect the graphics card and attempt to install basic drivers. However, you cannot get around having to unplug and reconnect your monitor cable each time. It is not possible to have one GPU processing and send a video signal through the other graphics card.
You probably want something small and compact, then. Perhaps Fractal's Node 202 is what you want. Silverstone also has a similar selection. Maybe other people will have recommendations too.
Depends on the cost. I do end up recommending a 750 watt PSU more often than really necessary. Most of the time SLI is discouraged, though.
hooijdonk17
Member
I just found a great deal on a monitor I've had my eyes on for a very long time, the AOC I2369VM. The only problem is that it's not a TN panel, but an IPS panel. My main gaming PC is also used for web browsing, videos and amateur photo editing so I was thinking a 6ms IPS should be good enough for me.. What does GAF think about this monitor, yay or nay?
Looks good but this one has better specs on paper. I'm looking to buy it as a second.
http://us.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/UM.QR0AA.001
How cheap? 1080p or better resolution?
Not the best helper, but you can see from the ratings on the site which are preferable.
https://pcpartpicker.com/parts/monitor/#W=2700&sort=d6&page=1
You can also maybe peruse the 27" Korean monitor thread, though it's a bit dead.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=490884
Sectorseven
Member
This extends out to peripherals and even motherboards as well. Do the majority of PC gamers really want this stuff, or is it just what manufacturers think they want?
So I'm really close to pulling the trigger on a new cooling setup with my build. Been on an air cooler for almost a year with a Corsair 500r and 5820k over clocked and I can't say I'm too thrilled with temps.
Been doing a bit of reading. Hoping some of the veterans can clear this up for me.
For the cpu I'm going to go with the Corsair h100i GTX aio. Mounting that to the top of the case pulling in air. For the front of the case I'm going to replace the stock 120mm fans with high static pressure 140mm fans. With led if I can manage. Lol. I'm also going to replace the 120mm fans on the water cooler with high airflow 120mm fans, hopefully a lot quieter too. And then on the rear exhaust I want to replace the 120mm fans there with a 140mm high airflow exhaust.
Now reading about the 500r, I should be able to make those accomodations.
I'd love to get a 280mm radiator but it doesn't seem to natively fit with my case. Any insight or verification of my plan is greatly appreciated.
Been doing a bit of reading. Hoping some of the veterans can clear this up for me.
For the cpu I'm going to go with the Corsair h100i GTX aio. Mounting that to the top of the case pulling in air. For the front of the case I'm going to replace the stock 120mm fans with high static pressure 140mm fans. With led if I can manage. Lol. I'm also going to replace the 120mm fans on the water cooler with high airflow 120mm fans, hopefully a lot quieter too. And then on the rear exhaust I want to replace the 120mm fans there with a 140mm high airflow exhaust.
Now reading about the 500r, I should be able to make those accomodations.
I'd love to get a 280mm radiator but it doesn't seem to natively fit with my case. Any insight or verification of my plan is greatly appreciated.
opticalmace
Member
What are your current temperatures? And what frequency?
There are a lot of stealthy micro ATX cases out there. For mid-tower size, I just got a Corsair 100r Silent, and it just looks like a black box with no windows. It has sound dampening too. (And its cheap)
Not saying they're all like that, but I tried to save money and buy an AOC IPS before and it had terrible backlight bleed.
What air cooler do you have? And what are your overclocking settings like (voltage)? According to the Corsair 500R's product page, it will accept a 280mm water cooler mounted at the top, and the Corsair H110 (280mm radiator) is specifically listed as being compatible with that case on the Corsair website.
Heat rises, so if the water cooler radiator is mounted at the top of the case, I would it as use it as exhaust rather than intake. That doesn't mean you can't mount it as intake, it's just something I would personally avoid. If you prefer to have the CPU radiator cooled by cool air from the outside, then perhaps mount the radiator at the front or side fan mounts.
As for your plan to deck out the case with fans, I should point out that the website also says the case will only accept two 120mm fans in the front, not the 140mm fans you were planning to get. The other mounts at the top, rear, bottom, and side accept both 120mm and 140mm fans.
Yes I agree with this.
I got a GTX970 and a 550W power supply with my latest build. I probably should have got a 650W or more, as a 980Ti requires 600W though I probably could get away with a 550W but its always better to play it a bit safer.
I'm really hoping the new mid-high range Pascal cards don't require more than 550W.
Unknown Soldier
Member
That's why I went all-in for a Corsair TX950 like 6 years ago now. It's still the beating heart of my gaming PC after all this time.
Buy a good PSU and it will last you more or less indefinitely, or until it finally degrades enough that it just can't supply the juice anymore but that takes a really long time to happen.
This happened to me exactly.
Turned out to be my wireless lan-card that wasn't compatible with Windows.
Pulled it out and it worked like a charm.
opticalmace
Member
Nothing wrong with those temps. If I were you I would just save the cash for a Pascal upgrade.
Wow thanks for the quick replies guys!
So I have been using a Phanteks PH-TC14PE to cool this processor so far. Seems like a great cooler, VERY quiet but with this processor it's just not giving me what I was expecting. Running at 4.4ghz using 1.24 (can probably go lower) on vcore. I'd like to go much higher with this over clock but messing around with higher frequencies hasn't been worth the effort yet.
I was reading reviews on newegg about the 280mm radiator and found some evidence of it not fitting. But hey if it says it's compatible then so be it. I'll just have to make sure it works with my socket type.
Definitely going to take your advice on the exhaust on top and such.
Haha, there's already $800 set aside for that whenever it hits lol
Unknown Soldier
Member
That seems about right for a 5820K. You have nothing to worry about until it gets into the 90C+ territory.
If you can keep it in the 80's blasting it with Prime95, you're fine. Nothing you use in the real world gets remotely close to Prime95 in heat output. All I have is a Noctua NH-D14 and I was pushing out 83-85C max after running Prime95 27.9 Small FFTs for 14 hours or so. An actual video encode using Adobe Media Encoder makes the CPU run at a balmy 56C tops. I haven't tried x264 yet but it's similar in temperatures from what I'm told.
I see what you mean.. the 500R doesn't offer total freedom to mount water cooler radiators and fans however the user wants. Generally speaking, it is much more preferable to have fans blowing air through a radiator than trying to pull air through it..
If the radiator is desired to go in the upper fan mount, then the users are forced to mount the radiator on the inside of the case while the fans go above in the compartment above the case interior. That's not ideal for radiator airflow and prevents push-pull fan configurations. Some people with more DIY enthusiasm have mentioned drilling/cutting parts of the case to better accommodate the radiator, such mods have allowed users to mount the radiator in the upper compartment and the fans below it, making it more effective at moving air through the radiator out of the case. I'm not sure how open you are to doing that.
You may be able to mount the radiator on the side panel, but that does make it somewhat awkward to handle the side panel, and I'm a bit worried that depending on what water cooler radiator you go with, it may end up being quite thick with the fans attached, and possibly interfere with the graphics card. Too thick and you won't be able to close the side panel. I'm not sure how much clearance there is, though.
Then there's the idea of mounting the radiator in the front of the case. This isn't exactly ideal either because the distance from the CPU to the front of the case might be too long for the water cooler tubing..
GAF, I need help!
I put all my stuff together, and it powers on for like 10 seconds before shutting off. Never shows BIOS or anything that I can see.
Here is a clip: https://youtu.be/SHCKt2Z7Zns
I put all my stuff together, and it powers on for like 10 seconds before shutting off. Never shows BIOS or anything that I can see.
Here is a clip: https://youtu.be/SHCKt2Z7Zns
pureIsometric
Banned
What motherboard are you using?
Terbinator
Member
Have you got the 4/8pin CPU connector in?
Gigabyte z170xp-sli
Yeah but I'll try reseating it
I unplugged my front panel reset switch just in case, no luck
pureIsometric
Banned
Make sure your ram is seated properly.
Your CPU fan is connected to the top 4-pin fan slot not the one underneath .
MAke sure PSU is well connected to the motherboard.
Clear the CMOS.
It looks like my clear CMOS thing only has 2 pins and no jumper on it.
You can also clear the CMOS by removing the round flat shiny battery from the motherboard.
- unplug power cord
- remove battery
- hold power button for 10s
- press power button a couple of times
- put battery back on
- plug cords
- CMOS has been reset
Dang.
Cleared it by taking the battery out (under the video card)
Since the card was out i tried it that way and it did the same thing, even after resetting the CMOS.
Is my new machine broken?
Stilton Disco
Member
Ok, finally got around to doing this, and the memtest didn't show anything wrong, I found another external DVD drive and that didn't work either, but both worked along with the W10 install disc on my laptop.
Ubuntu booted fine off the USB, but was unable to finish installation when I tried to instal it fully, and said there was a failure either with the DVD drive (which wasn't attached) or hard drive. It then crashed when I tried to turn it off though, again, just using Ubuntu from the USB, not installed to the PC itself.
So I'm guessing my SSD is at fault here? Or could it be something else? Is there anything else I can try, ideally that won't involve having to buy anything else.
OK, well I 'breadboxes' it, and ran it with no RAM and it didn't make any noises.
Tried a different PSU while outside of the case too with no luck. Could this be the CPU or Mobo?
Here is what it's doing: https://youtu.be/pJHu07rzIhU
Tried a different PSU while outside of the case too with no luck. Could this be the CPU or Mobo?
Here is what it's doing: https://youtu.be/pJHu07rzIhU
It could be a bent pin.Otherwise its a faulty mobo and u have to RMA it....Since its not the gpu or anything else,there is nothing left
Did you try booting it with one RAM stick at a time in different slots? My go-to thing to check first is the current BIOS not supporting the RAM as I've seen that happen way too many times. If that's the case, updating it might solve it.
I'm not sure if that's the problem right now since none of your motherboard's LEDs are lighting up. It could be DOA.
I tried all ram, no ram, one ram.
There are some orange glowy LEDs on the board that light up. It never beeps or anything but I don't know if it's supposed to - it's never been on.
Is it even possible to upgrade the BIOS in the state it is?
Just orange LEDs probably doesn't sound good. Did you check your manual (or online) what it's supposed to mean? Just like the beeps, there are LED error codes as well. Also the no beeps thing; is your speaker plugged in if it isn't built into the mobo? Plenty of motherboards have an external one.
Upgrading the BIOS might be out of the question sadly as it doesn't even POST, but I'm not a 100% sure about that.
I'm doing some upgrades to my PC, and I'll be using the old parts to upgrade my dad's
He'll have my overclocked 2500K and a GTX 970. http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator recommends a power supply between 400 and 450W
His current PSU is about 1 year old, 500W (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DGHKK7M/?tag=neogaf0e-20). Mine is about 5 years old, 630W (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182200), both bronze rated
So would he be better off with the 1-year-old 500W or the 5-year-old 630W?
He'll have my overclocked 2500K and a GTX 970. http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator recommends a power supply between 400 and 450W
His current PSU is about 1 year old, 500W (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DGHKK7M/?tag=neogaf0e-20). Mine is about 5 years old, 630W (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182200), both bronze rated
So would he be better off with the 1-year-old 500W or the 5-year-old 630W?
As far as the wattage goes, he'll be fine with either.
Novum_Veritas
Member
I would recommend using the EVGA one, Rosewill sounds like a cheap brand, and I've built a lot of PC's these are more often trouble then good.
Rosewill is a Newegg brand I believe. I've been using their 1000W Bronze power supply for years now and it's been going well. My first one died on me after about 2 years, but an RMA later, the second one I'm currently using now is still going for almost 4 years now.
Ecto311
Member
Quick question - if I get the overclocking pentium G3258 vs the G3260 would we notice any difference in a build with a GTX460 for games like the sims and world of warcraft?
Google shows me the lower model will overclock and allow for a 4ghz clock on stock cooler pretty easily but am I better off with the non overclock since it is a bit faster out of the box?
The power supply I got doesn't have the 2 PCI-E plugs so I need to swap the power for now to get the 460 installed. I am wondering if the graphics card is going to offload enough to push sims 4 a bit more since right now with 4gb of ram and the non overclocking processor windows shows that thing pegged at 100% usage on low settings.
Probably over thinking this thing but I am just looking for the best bang for the dollar. I have overclocked a few times and her motherboard is begging for it with a really easy to follow graphic interface but I am also trying to avoid issues down the line with it fucking up.
Google shows me the lower model will overclock and allow for a 4ghz clock on stock cooler pretty easily but am I better off with the non overclock since it is a bit faster out of the box?
The power supply I got doesn't have the 2 PCI-E plugs so I need to swap the power for now to get the 460 installed. I am wondering if the graphics card is going to offload enough to push sims 4 a bit more since right now with 4gb of ram and the non overclocking processor windows shows that thing pegged at 100% usage on low settings.
Probably over thinking this thing but I am just looking for the best bang for the dollar. I have overclocked a few times and her motherboard is begging for it with a really easy to follow graphic interface but I am also trying to avoid issues down the line with it fucking up.
Novum_Veritas
Member
Oh so that is why I've never heard of this brand.
Thanks for clearing that up.
I only had bad experience with LC-Power, LEPA and all those.
If those Rosewill are going well for you, you should use those instead, if there were no complications occurring with them.
Kenzodielocke
Banned
Can someone recommend me a couple of cases under 100 which are silent ?
Novum_Veritas
Member
I can recommend some of these:
H230 by NZXT, the VSP 5000 by Antec and the Define R5 by FractalDesign.
Pretty much my pick as well. I couldn't be any happier with my R4. If you're planning on adding fans, you might want to go with ones that aren't too loud either else that would defeat the purpose of buying a silent case.
Kenzodielocke
Banned
thanks, will look into those.
Novum_Veritas
Member
Exactly, R4 and R5 are pretty good, build a lot of rigs with those chassis.
You're welcome
opticalmace
Member
Were you doing a proper install of Ubuntu onto your SSD or were you just doing a "live trial" or whatever where it lets you boot into Ubuntu without actually installing the OS?
Could be a disk problem. Do you have a HDD or another SSD you could install instead? What power supply do you have?
Also at this point I would suggest seeing if there is a BIOS update, and if so what was updated. If you go into the BIOS it'll tell you somewhere what version you are on and you can compare it to the website. Finally, check the motherboard manual to see how to specify the ram speed and clock it to 1600mhz just in case.
You may also wish to unplug any peripherals or anything that you don't strictly need at this point. Definitely something a bit strange going on.
- Status