Cheers.
So it looks like I'll need to get bigger monitors then. That's a pain but I should be able to re-arrange a few things.
Any ideas for bigger monitors to pair with a GTX 970. I don't know much about 1080 or 1440 so looking for advice there too
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Cheers.
So it looks like I'll need to get bigger monitors then. That's a pain but I should be able to re-arrange a few things.
Any ideas for bigger monitors to pair with a GTX 970. I don't know much about 1080 or 1440 so looking for advice there too
QuantumSquid
Member
Thanks for the suggestions. So my build is fine as is, but I would need a new motherboard IF I chose to go for a Skylake CPU instead?
If u ever go Skylake u need a socket 1151 motherboard. The H97 is a socket 1150 motherboard.
QuantumSquid
Member
If u ever go Skylake u need a socket 1151 motherboard. The H97 is a socket 1150 motherboard.
Alright, thanks for the clarification. I don't plan on going Skylake any time soon though, the i5-4460 seems like it would serve my purposes just fine. The H97 should be compatible with it, right?
fierrotlepou
Member
Anyone know of a good Blu-Ray drive (burner) with Lightscribe technology? There doesn't seem to be a lot of choice and reviews are kinda hard to find.
Yep, they're compatible, although u might as well have gone Skylake since it should cost almost similar.
hooijdonk17
Member
Right.. GAF.. Monitor advice time. I've narrowed my monitor choices down to three:
These are all budget IPS monitors, but in order to decide on one, I need information on a few matters:
1. i2369Vm and VX2363SMHL-W use LG's 23" frameless AH-IPS panel which gets a lot of praise, but the i2476 uses BOE's 23,6" IPS-ADS which apparently has poorer contrast and color accuracy. What do I choose here? Should I go for quality or an extra .6"?
2. The i2369Vm has PWM. The i2476Vwm and VX2363SMHL-W are Flicker Free. Is Flicker Free the bees knees? Do I really want a Flicker Free panel, or is PWM a non issue?
3. The VX2363SMHL-W has Blue Light Filter. Is this a useful feature that would make an otherwise ugly ass white plastic monitor worthwhile?
4. There are even cheaper versions of the AOC models that have only D-Sub and DVI-D inputs. Would I lose much by just skipping the Display port and HDMI altogether and settling for DVI-D for about 15-20% cheaper? They are all budget monitors after all..
Thanks
These are all budget IPS monitors, but in order to decide on one, I need information on a few matters:
1. i2369Vm and VX2363SMHL-W use LG's 23" frameless AH-IPS panel which gets a lot of praise, but the i2476 uses BOE's 23,6" IPS-ADS which apparently has poorer contrast and color accuracy. What do I choose here? Should I go for quality or an extra .6"?
2. The i2369Vm has PWM. The i2476Vwm and VX2363SMHL-W are Flicker Free. Is Flicker Free the bees knees? Do I really want a Flicker Free panel, or is PWM a non issue?
3. The VX2363SMHL-W has Blue Light Filter. Is this a useful feature that would make an otherwise ugly ass white plastic monitor worthwhile?
4. There are even cheaper versions of the AOC models that have only D-Sub and DVI-D inputs. Would I lose much by just skipping the Display port and HDMI altogether and settling for DVI-D for about 15-20% cheaper? They are all budget monitors after all..
Thanks
QuantumSquid
Member
Right.. GAF.. Monitor advice time. I've narrowed my monitor choices down to three:
These are all budget IPS monitors, but in order to decide on one, I need information on a few matters:
1. i2369Vm and VX2363SMHL-W use LG's 23" frameless AH-IPS panel which gets a lot of praise, but the i2476 uses BOE's 23,6" IPS-ADS which apparently has poorer contrast and color accuracy. What do I choose here? Should I go for quality or an extra .6"?
2. The i2369Vm has PWM. The i2476Vwm and VX2363SMHL-W are Flicker Free. Is Flicker Free the bees knees? Do I really want a Flicker Free panel, or is PWM a non issue?
3. The VX2363SMHL-W has Blue Light Filter. Is this a useful feature that would make an otherwise ugly ass white plastic monitor worthwhile?
4. There are even cheaper versions of the AOC models that have only D-Sub and DVI-D inputs. Would I lose much by just skipping the Display port and HDMI altogether and settling for DVI-D for about 15-20% cheaper? They are all budget monitors after all..
Thanks
I would go for the AOC i2369Vm. Seems to have the fewest problems and .6" really isn't a big deal to lose out on.
opticalmace
Member
PC Perspective
The Tech Report
TechPowerUp
Especially the first two.
edit: The Anandtech and HardOCP forums can be interesting. Some very dedicated and knowledgable people there.
CraigerGamer
Member
If you have Amazon Prime they have this machine on sale.
List Price: $2,999.99
Price: $1,881.13 Free Shipping for Prime Members
You Save: $1,118.86 (37%)
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0 GHz Quad-Core
Motherboard: Intel Z97 Express Chipset
RAM: 32GB DDR3
SSD: 128GB SSD
HHD: 2TB HDD
OS: Genuine Windows 8.1 64-bit
Graphics: 2xNVIDIA GeForce GTX970 4GB
24X DVD±RW Dual-Layer Drive
Audio: Up to 7.1-channel
Gigabit LAN
Liquid Cooled
Fan Control Panel
Gaming KBD& MSE
Chassis: Cooler Master HAF 912 Mid-Tower Case w/750 Watt Power Supply
I haven't seen anything on Amazon with a pre-built 2 GTX970s before. PCGaf, is this much of a deal?
List Price: $2,999.99
Price: $1,881.13 Free Shipping for Prime Members
You Save: $1,118.86 (37%)
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0 GHz Quad-Core
Motherboard: Intel Z97 Express Chipset
RAM: 32GB DDR3
SSD: 128GB SSD
HHD: 2TB HDD
OS: Genuine Windows 8.1 64-bit
Graphics: 2xNVIDIA GeForce GTX970 4GB
24X DVD±RW Dual-Layer Drive
Audio: Up to 7.1-channel
Gigabit LAN
Liquid Cooled
Fan Control Panel
Gaming KBD& MSE
Chassis: Cooler Master HAF 912 Mid-Tower Case w/750 Watt Power Supply
I haven't seen anything on Amazon with a pre-built 2 GTX970s before. PCGaf, is this much of a deal?
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Ha, I had no idea lightscribe was even a thing still. I thought that died out ages ago.
Huge ripoff.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($314.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H50 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Stealth 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Z400s 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($41.73 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Seagate Pipeline HD 2TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.90 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($303.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($303.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($53.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer ($13.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) ($84.89 @ OutletPC)
Fan Controller: Aerocool F6XT Fan Controller ($11.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Thermaltake Commander Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Laser Mouse ($19.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $1522.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-18 12:53 EST-0500
That parts list uses identical parts where possible and substitutes in the cheapest equivalent for the parts that weren't specified in detail (e.g., Corsair H50 for "Liquid Cooled"). Most of these parts I wouldn't necessarily recommend, this is more of an example to show you how much a computer with equal specs could cost.
CraigerGamer
Member
It seems in all cases it's so much cheaper to build your own. Thanks for the list.
opticalmace
Member
Don't forget that the Amazon system has an SLI setup. Still not a good value or component list, of course.
That's odd, I could have sworn I clicked on "2" in the number of graphics cards to add. I've updated the post to reflect it.
thecosmicfly
Banned
Had to delay using memtest86 since we didn't have any spare CD's or usb drives around, but found out about Windows Memory Diagnostic. And yep, it detected a hardware problem right away. So that'll definitely get some replacing this week.
As far as what the .dmp files revealed it seems half of them list "atikmpag.sys" as the driver that caused the BSOD, and the other half by "ntoskrnl.exe", "ntkrnlpa.exe" and "halmacpi.dll" equally. So I guess those'll have to be addressed too. If anyone would want more info I can zip the .dmp files and link them to you if you'd like.
As far as what the .dmp files revealed it seems half of them list "atikmpag.sys" as the driver that caused the BSOD, and the other half by "ntoskrnl.exe", "ntkrnlpa.exe" and "halmacpi.dll" equally. So I guess those'll have to be addressed too. If anyone would want more info I can zip the .dmp files and link them to you if you'd like.
So I've put my new Noctua fans on the H80i radiator & moved to the top front slot, got 2 140mm on the top of the case and one on the bottom-front, then moved a 120mm to the back of the case (for now, I'll replace it with the other 140mm when I have the H100i GTX using both front bays.
CPU idle now sits around 39 degrees, under load (Prime95 default test), I'm getting 70 degrees after about a minute. The fans go crazy, and it slowly climbs. It got to 80 after about 3 minutes, where I stopped the test.
GPU idles at 40 degrees now. I ran FurMark 1440p test which pushed it up to about 63, but very slowly.
opticalmace
Member
I believe prime95 is not a good test for Haswell due to some special AVX(?) instructions that raise the temp a lot.
I haven't used it, but maybe try AIDA instead?
Those DLLs wouldnt have caused it, they are just a by product of dead RAM, whatever was being accessed at that time would have been blamed.
thecosmicfly
Banned
One more very quick question. Is it best to install the 8GB ram before or after upgrading from 32-bit to 64-bit, or does it not matter either way?
Doesn't make a difference. Windows won't complain about there being more or less RAM.
thecosmicfly
Banned
That's reassuring to hear.
Went ahead and ordered. Will take until Wed to arrive so I have time to double check here and there, but I think I'm ready to go forward.
Wanna say thanks again to all you guys for your help.
Went ahead and ordered. Will take until Wed to arrive so I have time to double check here and there, but I think I'm ready to go forward.
Wanna say thanks again to all you guys for your help.
Well I finished my build some time ago, but have been really lazy about posting pictures. I finally took some shots today and I'll apologize in advanced about the pic quality, you deserve better GAF
Anyhow here is the build:
Case: Ncase M1
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14 CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X99E-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA2011-3 Narrow Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Power Supply: Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply
Case Fan: Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 PWM 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan x5
Side with Fans
Side without Fans
Other Side
Back
Top
PSU Cable Close Up
Overall, I'm incredibly happy with it. It idles extremely quiet despite having 5 fans. The psu is the most noticeable part as it has a very faint "chatter" while idling. Temps are good even while on load though I haven't done any true benchmarking aside from just testing that nothing was out of place after initial build.
Next build is for my wife. Ordered everything for a skylake NUC build that I'll show my wife how to put together. She will use it with a new 27 inch ultrasharp Dell for web, movies, music and Sims 3. Should be fun and a good starting place for her first attempt at putting a pc together.
Anyhow here is the build:
Case: Ncase M1
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14 CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X99E-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA2011-3 Narrow Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Power Supply: Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply
Case Fan: Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 PWM 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan x5
Side with Fans
Side without Fans
Other Side
Back
Top
PSU Cable Close Up
Overall, I'm incredibly happy with it. It idles extremely quiet despite having 5 fans. The psu is the most noticeable part as it has a very faint "chatter" while idling. Temps are good even while on load though I haven't done any true benchmarking aside from just testing that nothing was out of place after initial build.
Next build is for my wife. Ordered everything for a skylake NUC build that I'll show my wife how to put together. She will use it with a new 27 inch ultrasharp Dell for web, movies, music and Sims 3. Should be fun and a good starting place for her first attempt at putting a pc together.
I'll ask here since this seems like the most appropriate thread for it
Has anyone ever had a problem with Chrome suddenly not working? I used it on Friday and it worked perfectly fine, then when I opened it again my antivirus warned me that there's some malware related attack and it wanted me to block all the communications from the program. I wasn't sure what was the issue and had to leave, so I just clicked the exit button without taking any action.
When I try to use Chrome now it goes to an auto:blank page and does not work. I have looked in my antivirus/firewall program and it does not appear to have blocked communications from Chrome.
I've searched about this issue and this thread from back in '09 has people talking about the same issue, getting a malware warning and the browser not working afterwards. I'm almost done with a scan and nothing has been found so far, and I've also downloaded designed specifically for malware but it hasn't found anything yet either.
https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chrome/4v2AkepxuWY
I'm currently going through the suggested solutions and this popped up
Is anyone familiar with this type of malware?
Has anyone ever had a problem with Chrome suddenly not working? I used it on Friday and it worked perfectly fine, then when I opened it again my antivirus warned me that there's some malware related attack and it wanted me to block all the communications from the program. I wasn't sure what was the issue and had to leave, so I just clicked the exit button without taking any action.
When I try to use Chrome now it goes to an auto:blank page and does not work. I have looked in my antivirus/firewall program and it does not appear to have blocked communications from Chrome.
I've searched about this issue and this thread from back in '09 has people talking about the same issue, getting a malware warning and the browser not working afterwards. I'm almost done with a scan and nothing has been found so far, and I've also downloaded designed specifically for malware but it hasn't found anything yet either.
https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chrome/4v2AkepxuWY
I'm currently going through the suggested solutions and this popped up
Is anyone familiar with this type of malware?
I'm currently scanning with a malware tool by ESET and it found one potential threat "Win32/PrcView potentially unsafe application". If that doesn't fix the problem I'll give the tool you mentioned a go.
Do you think rolling to a backup before the malware would help?
Edit: I've also seen this mentioned in a couple of places
http://usa.kaspersky.com/downloads/TDSSKiller
fabricated backlash
Member
So I'm finally building my new PC.
As for Graphics. I'll be playing mostly on my TV. I'm aiming for 1080p 60fps with high settings in most games.
Should i go for a GTX 960 for 219 Euros?
As for Graphics. I'll be playing mostly on my TV. I'm aiming for 1080p 60fps with high settings in most games.
Should i go for a GTX 960 for 219 Euros?
Novum_Veritas
Member
What games do you want to play? GTX 960 by which brand?
fabricated backlash
Member
New games like Witcher 3 and older games. It's from Zotac.
970 if you can stretch.
You'll want a GTX 970 instead of a GTX 960 if you want to hit higher settings and 60FPS in most newer games. Here's Digital Foundry's article on TW3, they recommend the GTX 960 for their "console equivalent settings" which were mostly medium settings except for hairworks turned off and water/textures settings on high.
DUFFMCWALIN
Member
Did anyone here buy any extended warranty on your parts? I usually don't buy into any of those but I was wondering if it would be worth on your gpu.
Never have done so. Parts rarely fail these days. Most GPUs have a decent warranty and if your going to swap it within 2 years I wouldn't bother.
fabricated backlash
Member
So basically a 970 is more future proof.
I'd go with a R9 290 but the price is ridiculous in Europe (compared to US)
Novum_Veritas
Member
I also would recommend a GTX 970, especially for Witcher 3.
What brand do you have? EVGA?
DUFFMCWALIN
Member
Ya it has a decent warranty and I do plan on switching out within two years at max, really besides that and adding an ssd i don't see much reason to have to upgrade any other part for awhile.
XFX
roadrunn3r
Member
Yea, you either get a 950 for cheap or go 970. The 960 doesn't make a lot of sense. (at least with EU prices). The difference between a 950 and 960 is minimal, from 960 to 970 a lot bigger.
Novum_Veritas
Member
Well extended warranties for GPU's are not necessary, never had problems with them within warranty.
DUFFMCWALIN
Member
Awesome I didn't think so, but now I'm just trying to be over protective of my parts. Its just money and/or time if something breaks and I have to RMA it.
CastleRybread
Member
If you want to buy a pc prebuilt wait and see if hp does anymore insane deals. They were selling systems with a 4790 and a 980ti for less than a grand after rebate. I would check slickdeals often to see if they pop up again.
Novum_Veritas
Member
I know, the RMA process can be pretty annoying, can take up to 4 or 5 weeks until you get back your stuff.
But today's hardware isn't that problematic. I can understand your point though.
Jesb
Member
Hope I can determine here if I need a new pc or not. My pic died on me a while ago and I'm trying to see again if I could figure out the problem. I tried unplugging everything and plugging it back in. When I power up the system there is no beep and there is nothing on the screen. The fans are working the disc drive works, does this rule out a bad psu most likely?
Novum_Veritas
Member
Could be a bad PSU, RAM or CPU could be defective, hard to say. Do you have a GPU installed?
960 might not run things like W3 on high at 1080 and keep 60fps
Jesb
Member
Yes I have a 7970 installed. The fans are spinning when I turn on the machine.
Novum_Veritas
Member
Try removing a RAM block, or try to remove the CMOS battery.
It is weird, that the PC is starting but is not beeping or showing any picture.
- Status