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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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DPB

Member
Haven't been able to source if the noise is the fans or vibration, but whenever I place my hand or a foreign object on my case I can clearly feel it shaking like a purse chihuahua, so I think it's a good idea if I have at least something to deal with it. Also, I can't use a rubber mounting peg since my fan have the tunnel style screw holes, so I have to settle for the gaskets.

Have you tried disconnecting the case fans one at a time? If it's not one of them it could a hard drive causing the vibration. I've had hard drives before that vibrated so much you could hear them in the room below, even when idle.
 

Bluforce

Member
I
What are the rest of your parts, where are you buying from, and what country are you in? I can't find many reviews of that motherboard, so depending on what's available I think it might be better to find another motherboard.
See my original post in this thread for the details:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=194039355&highlight=#post194039355

From that post we came at the conclusion that 3000 Mhz RAM is more or less a waste of money, and because I'm tired about searching for MoBo and RAM (my browser hystory is just like a database right now):
i5 6600
ASRock z170 Pro4S (just for the price, 110 Euro)
Kingston HyperX Fury DDR4 16 GB 2133, 2x8 GB (HX421C14FBK2/16)
425 Euro, Amazon.

In five years if the CPU will be a bottleneck, I will replace it with a new one. I'm really not interested in overclock. Not at all.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($133.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $851.51
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-08 15:00 EST-0500

Hmm.. if you go with these parts, it'll cost you $850 via Newegg. I dunno if you need to account for taxes or rebate or anything.
What is it about the Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 that you like so much? Is it pretty much the price?
 

RGM79

Member
See my original post in this thread for the details:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=194039355&highlight=#post194039355

From that post we came at the conclusion that 3000 Mhz RAM is more or less a waste of money, and because I'm tired about searching for MoBo and RAM (my browser hystory is just like a database right now):
i5 6600
ASRock z170 Pro4S (just for the price, 110 Euro)
Kingston HyperX Fury DDR4 16 GB 2133, 2x8 GB (HX421C14FBK2/16)
425 Euro, Amazon.

In five years if the CPU will be a bottleneck, I will replace it with a new one. I'm really not interested in overclock. Not at all.

Alright, in that case because you aren't interested in overclocking, you don't need a Z170 motherboard, you can opt for a cheaper H170 or B150 model. I recommend the Gigabyte GA-B150-HD3P (€97) motherboard. It's even cheaper than that ASRock model and it also includes USB 3.1 and USB type C support that the ASRock model lacks.

Your other parts seem fine, and yes you should consider a new power supply whenever you get a new graphics card.
 

Weetrick

Member
also i hate that Fatality crap and those RAM look ugly as fuck, but that's just my opinion :D

kdZ3k.png


I refuse to buy anything Fatal1ty branded.
 

RGM79

Member
What is it about the Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 that you like so much? Is it pretty much the price?

Price, features, and a lot of good reviews. I know I sound like a shill at times for it, but I haven't seen that many better choices that aren't also more expensive. It used to be even cheaper a few weeks or months ago ($110~120) but I don't think $130 is a bad price for it. Also going by most professional reviews for it, it overclocks to 4.8GHz like a champ. Look at this link, it lists Z170 ATX motherboards with USB 3.1 support sorted by best reviews. it's one of the cheapest Z170 motherboards that includes USB 3.1 support and has a large number of mostly positive reviews. It's also the successor of the old Gigabyte Z97X-SLI that used to be recommended in the custom PC threads of last year and before.

Also yes, I'm thrifty. When I go over most peoples' parts list recommendations, I automatically try to optimize for cost. If something else offers nearly or just as much performance/features for a better price, why not? It's only if people say they specifically want something that I'll account for it (e.g., color scheme, brand preference, or they really like the look of or already bought a certain part).
 

Bluforce

Member
Alright, in that case because you aren't interested in overclocking, you don't need a Z170 motherboard, you can opt for a cheaper H170 or B150 model. I recommend the Gigabyte GA-B150-HD3P (€97) motherboard. It's even cheaper than that ASRock model and it also includes USB 3.1 and USB type C support that the ASRock model lacks.

Your other parts seem fine, and yes you should consider a new power supply whenever you get a new graphics card.

Thanks. At this point I have the latest dilemma.
Since here in Italy I can't find that motherboard on Amazon, is it ok if I choose the ASrock H170 Pro4S (97 Euro)?
 

RGM79

Member
But unfortunately it isn't sold directly by Amazon.
However, I will consider all your advice.
Thank you all, guys.

Oh, I didn't know that was an issue.

Buying open box items from Newegg, good idea?

Hard to say, depends on how much money you stand to save over and what's wrong with the item in general. If there's just a short (~90 days) or no warranty at all, I'd probably advise against it, there are probably better alternatives.
 
Price, features, and a lot of good reviews. I know I sound like a shill at times for it, but I haven't seen that many better choices that aren't also more expensive. It used to be even cheaper a few weeks or months ago ($110~120) but I don't think $130 is a bad price for it. Also going by most professional reviews for it, it overclocks to 4.8GHz like a champ. Look at this link, it lists Z170 ATX motherboards with USB 3.1 support sorted by best reviews. it's one of the cheapest Z170 motherboards that includes USB 3.1 support and has a large number of mostly positive reviews. It's also the successor of the old Gigabyte Z97X-SLI that used to be recommended in the custom PC threads of last year and before.

Also yes, I'm thrifty. When I go over most peoples' parts list recommendations, I automatically try to optimize for cost. If something else offers nearly or just as much performance/features for a better price, why not? It's only if people say they specifically want something that I'll account for it (e.g., color scheme, brand preference, or they really like the look of or already bought a certain part).
I ask only because for my build I am leaning towards the ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming. (i5-6600k, R9 390). If there is really no discernible difference than the two, or if the Gigabyte is actually a better board (its $12 cheaper too), I can switch it out before my order is placed at the end of the week.
 

RGM79

Member
I ask only because for my build I am leaning towards the ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming. (i5-6600k, R9 390). If there is really no discernible difference than the two, or if the Gigabyte is actually a better board (its $12 cheaper too), I can switch it out before my order is placed at the end of the week.

Going by Newegg user reviews, it seems the Gigabyte model is more reliable than the Asus model and has a higher proportion of positive (4 and 5 star) reviews.

Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI (4.3/5 stars on Amazon after 19 reviews, 4/5 stars on newegg after 69 reviews)

Asus Z170-Pro Gaming (a single 5 star review at Amazon, 3/5 stars on newegg after 70 reviews)

If you want to see what kind of issues users are having with the motherboards, I recommend you go to the newegg links, click on the reviews, then sort by "lowest rated" to see what the worst case scenarios are like.
 
Going by Newegg user reviews, it seems the Gigabyte model is more reliable than the Asus model and has a higher proportion of positive (4 and 5 star) reviews.

Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI (4.3/5 stars on Amazon after 19 reviews, 4/5 stars on newegg after 69 reviews)

Asus Z170-Pro Gaming (a single 5 star review at Amazon, 3/5 stars on newegg after 70 reviews)

If you want to see what kind of issues users are having with the motherboards, I recommend you go to the newegg links, click on the reviews, then sort by "lowest rated" to see what the worst case scenarios are like.
ok. thanks!
 
Hey guys, I have an HIS 4gb r9 290. I want to get more FPS but buying an upgrade for this card is going to cost me several hundred dollars.

I was looking into cooling (my card has one small fan, stock) and found this article.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/r9-290-accelero-xtreme-290,3671-4.html

Bit outdated now, but do you guys reckon buying a cooling like this for around $75 is worth it over buying an entire new GPU?

Getting an aftermarket cooler is going to net you a slightly better framerate if you overclock, but it's a stopgap solution at best. You're better off putting the money toward a new card in the future.
 

RGM79

Member
Hey guys, I have an HIS 4gb r9 290. I want to get more FPS but buying an upgrade for this card is going to cost me several hundred dollars.

I was looking into cooling (my card has one small fan, stock) and found this article.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/r9-290-accelero-xtreme-290,3671-4.html

Bit outdated now, but do you guys reckon buying a cooling like this for around $75 is worth it over buying an entire new GPU?

I forget, but did you ever tell us your full PC's specs? Perhaps a stronger CPU may be what you need.
 

Alucrid

Banned
Oh, I didn't know that was an issue.



Hard to say, depends on how much money you stand to save over and what's wrong with the item in general. If there's just a short (~90 days) or no warranty at all, I'd probably advise against it, there are probably better alternatives.
Looking at this monitor only 100 bucks but it's more about availability and maybe the Newegg rma process. They might just be all the units returned for bad back light bleed though so I'm unsure

How are frys for online returns?
 

Dmax3901

Member
Getting an aftermarket cooler is going to net you a slightly better framerate if you overclock, but it's a stopgap solution at best. You're better off putting the money toward a new card in the future.

Great info, thanks.

I forget, but did you ever tell us your full PC's specs? Perhaps a stronger CPU may be what you need.

I'm impressed you remember individual posts so well! my CPU is an i5 4690k and I've recently oc'd it to 4.0ghz I think? Maybe a bit more.
 

RGM79

Member
Looking at this monitor only 100 bucks but it's more about availability and maybe the Newegg rma process. They might just be all the units returned for bad back light bleed though so I'm unsure

How are frys for online returns?
If you're going to spend that much, you might as well pay $100 more for a new monitor. Or if you prefer to save money, there are other options like the ones listed here.

Cant say about Fry's as I have never been to one.

I'm looking for a larger hard drive to add to my build for more storage. My 250 GB drive is starting to get crowded. Which would Gaf recommend? Here's my build if it's helpful: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FZ7g6h

I was looking at a 1 or 2 TB drive.
For 1TB, go with Western Digital Blue or Toshiba. For 2TB or greater, I usually end up recommending Toshiba drives because they are well-priced.

Great info, thanks.

I'm impressed you remember individual posts so well! my CPU is an i5 4690k and I've recently oc'd it to 4.0ghz I think? Maybe a bit more.
Ah, my memory isn't that good. I sorta remembered you were looking for a replacement VGA cooler, that was it.

It doesn't sound like you're hurting for CPU performance as the i5 4690k is still an excellent processor and you could take it up to 4.5GHz if needed, although performance can vary by what games you play. If you need a higher framerate, you'll have to consider lowering some game settings.
 

Dmax3901

Member
It doesn't sound like you're hurting for CPU performance as the i5 4690k is still an excellent processor and you could take it up to 4.5GHz if needed, although performance can vary by what games you play. If you need a higher framerate, you'll have to consider lowering some game settings.

But I don't wanna! It's Rise of the Tomb Raider that's causing me trouble FPS wise at the moment. Seems pretty demanding on all settings.
 

wwm0nkey

Member
What do you mean "worth it"? If you want to do it, go for it.

And "will windows 10 bitch"? No. It's an OS. It doesn't "bitch". But you will be notified that you will have to activate windows. You'll be able to do this through MS customer service.

Well I am just wondering if it seems like a good idea, money won't be too much of an issue but here is what I currently have

CPU: i5 2500k (on stock cooler so I can't overclock for long)
MB: MSI MS-7750
RAM: 8gigs DDR3 (1660 I believe)
GPU: 980 (not replacing that)

So what I want to get is

CPU: i5 6600k w/ a better fan
MB: Don't know yet, recommendations would be nice
RAM: 16gigs DDR4 2400

The question I have is would it really be worth it? With the new Intel news seems like it would last me a long time. As for the Windows 10 thing, that's what I meant, I don't have a problem with calling, just wanted to know if I had to or not.
 

bobawesome

Member
That's an AMD processor, you won't be able to use that with Intel processors. How much money are you hoping to spend in total for a new CPU and motherboard? If you want to save money, you should look for an Intel 4th generation processor, otherwise if you go with the new 6th generation Intel processors then you will need to buy new DDR4 RAM.

I see, thank you for letting me know! I had no idea my current RAM wouldn't be compatible. I was hoping to salvage parts to save money on a mATX build if it proved to be sufficiently cheaper than the Mini-ITX build I also had in mind. I do think I'll go for a 4th gen i3 on that build, as well as a LGA1150 motherboard. $170-180 was definitely the sweet spot for both the motherboard and CPU.
 
So GAF, the sensor on my Naos 5000 mouse got all fuckity so I went back to my trusty G500, but now the left mouse button is fuckity on my G500 so I'm looking for a new mouse.

I figured I'd go with the G502, but I'm seeing that the G602 is on sale for cheaper.

Now give it to me straight, GAF. I've been weary of wireless mice in the past because they were goddamn horrible, but the G602 looks pretty nice, and I wouldn't mind never having to yank the mouse cable from behind my desk ever again. Is the "2 ms latency" that they claim noticeable at all? Since that's much less than a refresh on a 144Hz monitor, I'm guessing it's not noticeable at all but I don't know if that's just misleading marketing speak. I'm a person who can't stand the input lag that v-sync at 60Hz introduces, for example, and while v-sync on 144Hz isn't too bad, I can still notice it. Will I regret buying one of these new-age wireless mice?
 
I just have no words to how much better and cheaper my gaming experience is on PC now over consoles. Between the steam sale CDkeys and the buy sell trade thread here on Gaf I have saved so flipping much money compared to what I had been paying on consoles I just... I cant thank you guys enough for trying to make it as painless as possible to build a new PC and figure stuff out.

Before I started I was a complete noob to all of this and probably still am lol. But I just want to pay it forward what little I can and share a few things for people looking at a build similar to mine and are on the fence about an R9 390 since I see a lot of people going for something similar.

This is how mine turned out. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...authkey=!AB9fY4mMfKrcrPo&v=3&ithint=photo,jpg

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Best Buy)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($118.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($150.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 390 8GB SOC Video Card ($308.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1246.62
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-31 18:29 EST-0500

This is my list from earlier in this thread that everyone helped me with. The only thing that I changed was a different case for the same price due to crazy shipping on the define S and I added 2 case fans after the case came because the case I got only came with the two exhaust fans.

I haven't overclocked my r9 390 at all because I plan on selling it when I upgrade to pascal later this year and I figured people would appreciate that but I can still get quite a few settings on ultra at 1080p 60fps while playing witcher 3 by turning chromatic aberration off for some reason. With it on I can't even get medium high stable but with it off... Let me tell you that doing this coming from consoles is... an emotional experience... I mean, it's one thing to look at the PC screenshots online but to actually see it in motion... I just didn't know.

It also has handled every other game that I've thrown at it so far on ultra just so you know. (Bioshock Infinite <- blew me away, Boarderlands 2 etc. Not the most demanding I know) Though I wasn't expecting much because I only got it as a place holder for Pascal it has performed beyond my expectations so far and should run the only game that I was worried about, Dark Souls 3, at ultra no problem. Knock on wood. Crosses fingers for a good port lol.

The r9 930 series run hot. I just want to share some statistics that I spent a lot of time digging up and observing with potential new buyers so you know what to expect and so that you know what is safe. The card likes to idle anywhere from 55-64°C depending on the card you drew. During heavy usage the card can hover in the 80s. Don't worry at 94°C the card will throttle itself so as not to overheat. This however means that you are pushing it too far and should back off on some of those game settings.

If those temperatures worry you, worry no more! Download MSI afterburner (It comes and works in conjunction with Riva tuner) and set a custom fan curve. This should solve all of your GPU temperature issues providing you have the proper ventilation and case fan set up. Don't ask me about crossfire as I only have one card. My temps now idle in the 30s and during heavy gameplay, Witcher 3 at mostly ultra as mentioned before, it hovers in the 60s and never gets beyond 74°C. I cannot stress enough how much MSI afterburner is your friend. Just take a little bit of time and get to know it. Hover your mouse over each option and it should give you tips as to what each thing does. Learn how to set a custom fan curve. Learn to read the stats the program is displaying from your computer and what they mean. Learn how to display stats (FPS, Gpu/Cpu temps, Fan speeds, etc.) on screen with both Riva Tuner and MSI Afterburner while you play and you will quickly feel vastly more comfortable with and in control of your new system. Afterburner lets you do all of this and more. It really is an amazing and essential tool.

Anyway, If you are a complete noob like me then you are in the right place. This thread and official hardware and software forums are your friends. Be cautious, be patient, keep calm and ask lots of questions even if they seem silly and you will be fine.

Well, I hope that was able to help some of you make a decision or just help at all.

Can't thank you all enough. Good grief I wish I had done this sooner...
 
So I have this 7 year old computer with an AMD Phenom II X4 955. I want to replace the motherboard/cpu/ram, but I don't want to buy Windows again. Is this possible? Can I reuse the existing OS key by calling Microsoft and telling them that I upgraded the mobo and cpu?
 
So I have this 7 year old computer with an AMD Phenom II X4 955. I want to replace the motherboard/cpu/ram, but I don't want to buy Windows again. Is this possible? Can I reuse the existing OS key by calling Microsoft and telling them that I upgraded the mobo and cpu?

It is worth giving it a shot. I remember this same question being asked somewhere back in this thread and some where saying that they had luck with Microsoft support by telling them that it was just a mobo upgrade and that it would be on the same computer essentially.
 
It is worth giving it a shot. I remember this same question being asked somewhere back in this thread and some where saying that they had luck with Microsoft support by telling them that it was just a mobo upgrade and that it would be on the same computer essentially.

Yeah, I just wish I understood what the policy actually is...like, if it's de-authenticated on the old PC, is it no problem to use with the new one? Or do they NOT want you to use it with new hardware?
 

longdi

Banned
Just tell them your motherboard broke and you replaced a new one. Most of the time they will provide a new key. Some time if they deny it, you can call in later at a different time of the day and try again. I got 100% success rate, on the first call, so far.
 

diablos991

Can’t stump the diablos
Installed my G-Sync DIY kit.

Whomever designed the brown connector for the front panel buttons ribbon is mental. Broke the thing right off the board and had to solder it back on. The instructions really should tell you how to unlatch the thing other than "pull up". You need to pull out and angle up and any force rips the thing off the PCB.

After a stressful hour I now have G-Sync! It's too bad the VG248QE doesn't let me have G-Sync and ULMB going at the same time.
 

Pachinko

Member
Anyone out there know when Intel plans to solve the sky lake shortage ? I really want a 6700 i7 but it's basically sold out or marked up 10-20% plus shipping and at that point I may as well just get the 6700k ...
 

diablos991

Can’t stump the diablos
Anyone out there know when Intel plans to solve the sky lake shortage ? I really want a 6700 i7 but it's basically sold out or marked up 10-20% plus shipping and at that point I may as well just get the 6700k ...

You should get the K regardless. Especially if you plan on gaming.
 

RGM79

Member
Yeah, I just wish I understood what the policy actually is...like, if it's de-authenticated on the old PC, is it no problem to use with the new one? Or do they NOT want you to use it with new hardware?

It's supposed to depend on what kind of Windows license you have. Retail license copies can be transferred, but OEM licenses (bundled with prebuilt PCs, etc) aren't supposed to be able to be transferred. There's no harm in asking Microsoft support about it though. Of course, tell them it needs reactivation due to parts changing and that it is not a new PC.


The two main recommendations I'll make are for a different motherboard and set of RAM.

That Asus motherboard has middling reviews, just 3/5 stars after 8user reviews on Newegg. The Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 costs a similar amount of money and seems more reliable, it has a score of 4/5 stars after 40 user reviews on Newegg. For the same amount of money as that 2133MHz RAM kit, you can get this 2x8GB kit of 2400MHz G.Skill RAM. Also, those two parts sport red and black color schemes, I'm sure they'll go better with the windowed red and black Phanteks case you chose.

Keep in mind that NCIX has price-matching policy [1][2], you stand to save around $130 if you can get them to match what competitors are offering the parts for.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($359.99 @ NCIX)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($37.05 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($211.75 @ Vuugo)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($104.35 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($213.05 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($901.98 @ DirectCanada)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX Mini ITX Tower Case ($97.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $2016.14
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-09 01:36 EST-0500
 
So things have been going better than expected.

The new PC runs like a dream, everything is fast as hell now.

Thanks again to RGM79 and co for setting me up with this awesome gaming PC.
 

RGM79

Member
Is it just me, or is there something visually impressive about this motherboard?

Biostar sure likes clown colored motherboards. They can be okay, but they're as ugly as they come.

So things have been going better than expected.

The new PC runs like a dream, everything is fast as hell now.

Thanks again to RGM79 and co for setting me up with this awesome gaming PC.

Enjoy your new PC!
 

OraleeWey

Member
Nope. Looks like a generic cheap MB. The more impressive ones have unique heatsinks, colors and etc.

Biostar sure likes clown colored motherboards. They can be okay, but they're as ugly as they come.


But seriously I like its simplicity. This is also the easiest motherboard I've ever worked with and the manual was super easy to follow. It's pretty much pictures.

But yeah, this PC isn't meant to be anything impressive, it's just a simple for-work PC.


Edit: G2350 can handle 1440p video. It can also handle 4k but it stutters a little.
 

Ellite25

Member
So I'm out of the loop on video cards to you'll have to excuse me. With the new Nvidia cards coming out at some point this year, what can we expect in terms of performance boost? I was thinking about getting a 970, but with the new ones around the corner it seems like it might just make sense to hold off if the 970 equivalent of this gen of cards is that much more powerful. Thoughts?
 

Crisium

Member
So I'm out of the loop on video cards to you'll have to excuse me. With the new Nvidia cards coming out at some point this year, what can we expect in terms of performance boost? I was thinking about getting a 970, but with the new ones around the corner it seems like it might just make sense to hold off if the 970 equivalent of this gen of cards is that much more powerful. Thoughts?

No one really knows anything. AMD has shown actual Polaris hardware and have stated both mid summer and back-to-school, so August-September seems likely. Nvidia has never beaten AMD to a new node and have neither shown working silicon nor stated a release date, so no one knows at all and can only guess.

I'd look at the last new node for precedence. Very large dies on the new node is unlikely for a consumer graphics card at first, so a Radeon 7970 / GTX 680 equivalent first is a good guess. If they are running GDDR5X or HMB2 that can only help though, since 7970 and 680 didn't push new memory standards. GTX 680 was around 25% faster at launch over a 580. Of course that increased with new architecture improvements, as did the 7970 which was initially slower than a 680 but later faster.

So will we expect 25% this time? Who knows. The node will offer more efficiency, the new Polaris and Pascal architectures will offer more efficiency, and the new memory should as well. And then there's the small chance of a larger die (290X or 780 Ti which were basically double 580 performance) rather than the smaller 7970 or 680 being available right away, albeit a wildcard.
 

Theonik

Member
After a stressful hour I now have G-Sync! It's too bad the VG248QE doesn't let me have G-Sync and ULMB going at the same time.
If you think about it, it makes sense that you can't have variable framerate and backlight strobing at the same time since the later needs to be synchronized with the frames and requires some fairly high refresh rates to function as intended which breaks when you pair it with arbitrary frame timing.
 

LordAlu

Member
Thanks for the reply. And what if I used 1600 MHz memory on his PC (where apparently 1333 MHz is the limit for his motherboard), will it downright not work at all or will it automatically clock at a lower speed? Because I may have some 1600 MHz memory lying around.
It should just clock at the lower speed - it won't hurt to try it either as it won't damage anything if it doesn't work.
 

mhayze

Member
So I have this 7 year old computer with an AMD Phenom II X4 955. I want to replace the motherboard/cpu/ram, but I don't want to buy Windows again. Is this possible? Can I reuse the existing OS key by calling Microsoft and telling them that I upgraded the mobo and cpu?
It depends where you got windows from. If it was bundled with a store bought pc, then no (if you call). If you bought a retail, non-oem version, then yes, and you will need the key.
 
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