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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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bomblord1

Banned
Hmm, that one looks a little different than the EVGA on Amazon though.

Edit: no I doesn't....I'm wrong. Thanks! Gonna see what shipping and taxes come out to.

Yea it's the ACX 2.0+ which doesn't have the reference cooler. If you look on Amazon the same model is in the options.
 

gdt

Member
I've never used their next business day shipping so I couldn't say sorry.

No probs. I figure I'm kn the NE and they are in Cali so with he time difference and the rush processing I put on it they should have it shipped out today and I should have it in my office here tomorrow. Psyched. Glad to never worry about 1080p gaming again. Or VR.

And I'll be able to fuck around with down sampling now haha.

On a related note, seems like I will have a Tri X OC 290 to sell soon.....
 

Red Hood

Banned
I'm planning on upgrading the RAM on my dad's PC, and I was wondering a few things. According to CPU-Z he has now dual-channelled 2x2GB 532.1 MHz (which is approximately 1066 MHz, right?). He has the MSI H61M-P22 motherboard, which only has two DIMM slots and their official product page says the following about it:



And since he doesn't have an Ivy Bridge processor (i3 2130, which is Sandy Bridge), am I right to assume 1066 MHz DDR3 is all his PC can take? That would be a bummer, because I was eyeing the 8GB Kingston HyperX FURY for him (full specs: 2 x 4 GB - DIMM 240-pins - DDR3 - 1866 MHz / PC3-14900 - CL10 - 1.5 V).

What if I find some 1333 MHz memory instead of 1066?

Anyone?
 
Here's a Tested video, timestamped where they're installing the video card. It's really, really easy.

My r9 380 card only has one of those 8 hole connector slots, inside the PC there's a loose cable that seems to match that says "PCI-E" in white text on it.

Safe to say that's the right one? Since the card is going into the PCI-E slot if I'm not mistaken.

So the steps I'll take are;

1. Stick card into PCI-E slot
2. Close the dark latch on the side
3. Put in the expansion slot screws because they were in the way.
4. Plus the connector that says "PCI-E" into the only open slot I can find on the card.
5. Close up PC
6. Plug everything in.
7. Turn on Power
8. Profit???
 
The cable you're putting into the video card is just for power, so it doesn't matter which you use. I'm not even sure why one would be labeled PCI-E, but it's probably fine. Your steps look good, but they vary depending on your specific case.
 
The cable you're putting into the video card is just for power, so it doesn't matter which you use. I'm not even sure why one would be labeled PCI-E, but it's probably fine. Your steps look good, but they vary depending on your specific case.

The problem I'm running into now is that it won't go in. Like it goes in a little but not enough for the latch to secure it properly. Also the motherboard is bending with the pressure. Should I just ram it in with more force?
 

wwm0nkey

Member
Okay so I think I am in partial need of an upgrade. I have a i5 2500k and 8gb of RAM. I would like to get 16gigs of GDDR4 RAM and a new MB / CPU.

So would that be worth it? Also will Windows 10 bitch that I switched hardware?
 
The problem I'm running into now is that it won't go in. Like it goes in a little but not enough for the latch to secure it properly. Also the motherboard is bending with the pressure. Should I just ram it in with more force?

There should be a means of securing the card with screws or a latch (or both) as is circled in red here. Those screws need to be removed first.

Don't force it, it shouldn't take too much pressure. Sometimes there's a little plastic lever that moves out of the way and then snaps into place, which can create some resistance.
 
There should be a means of securing the card with screws or a latch (or both) as is circled in red here. Those screws need to be removed first.

Don't force it, it shouldn't take too much pressure. Sometimes there's a little plastic lever that moves out of the way and then snaps into place, which can create some resistance.

Yeah, I removed those ones since I noticed they were in the way at first. I can't spot anything on the card or the board that's causing it to obstruct the card.

I'm going to laugh if the card or something ends up breaking. Because I specifically chose the option to keep everything in to avoid that but they took the card out anyway.

EDIT: GOt it in.

Had to put one edge in then wiggle it in instead of applying equal pressure to both sides.
 
Yeah, I removed those ones since I noticed they were in the way at first. I can't spot anything on the card or the board that's causing it to obstruct the card.

I'm going to laugh if the card or something ends up breaking. Because I specifically chose the option to keep everything in to avoid that but they took the card out anyway.

Yeah I understand not wanting to destroy your new system. You may just need to press a little harder. Do it with the motherboard laying flat (often means setting your case on its side). Once the card is flush with where the screws were, put the screws back in and turn your case upright.

EDIT: GOt it in.

Had to put one edge in then wiggle it in instead of applying equal pressure to both sides.

Excellent! Sometimes stuff just needs some finagling.
 

Cptkrush

Member
So I'm looking to build a home server for my apartment with my tax return. Currently my requirements are:

  • NAS/extended storage for my web dev work so I can access it across my desktop and laptop
  • Plex server able to transcode a single stream of 1080p
  • Running 24/7 without too much power draw

I know this is a gaming pc thread, but I figured you guys could give me some pointers since it is in a similar ballpark.
I have this build plotted out
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FF9sqs

Anything I could do better here?
 
Yeah I understand not wanting to destroy your new system. You may just need to press a little harder. Do it with the motherboard laying flat (often means setting your case on its side). Once the card is flush with where the screws were, put the screws back in and turn your case upright.



Excellent! Sometimes stuff just needs some finagling.

Yeah, had to stretch a little to get to the connector in but it fit into place. I think I'm all set.

Next post should hopefully be from the new machine.
 

Giever

Member
Can anyone recommend a decent internal card reader (for SD, microSD, etc.)

Every single one I find on Newegg or Amazon or wherever has surprisingly awful average reviews.
 

Bluforce

Member
So, is this good enough to be a honest (and future-proof) gaming PC with a 450 euro budget?
I already have ssd, hdd, case, psu, and later this year I will buy a new gen mid-high range GPU.

I'm ready to buy if it's all ok.
 

bomblord1

Banned
Anyone have experience overclocking the R9 Nano? I've seen some people online getting them to near 980ti levels of performance on the air cooler and was wondering if/how I could do it and what settings I would need.
 

Manp

Member
So, is this good enough to be a honest (and future-proof) gaming PC with a 450 euro budget?
I already have ssd, hdd, case, psu, and later this year I will buy a new gen mid-high range GPU.

I'm ready to buy if it's all ok.

i would increase the budget a bit and go K for the CPU and Z for the motherboard. checked on amazon right now and the total came out at around 480€ for a 6600K+Z170 Extreme4+those rams.

also i hate that Fatality crap and those RAM look ugly as fuck, but that's just my opinion :D
 

Skunkers

Member
So I'm looking to build a home server for my apartment with my tax return. Currently my requirements are:

  • NAS/extended storage for my web dev work so I can access it across my desktop and laptop
  • Plex server able to transcode a single stream of 1080p
  • Running 24/7 without too much power draw

I know this is a gaming pc thread, but I figured you guys could give me some pointers since it is in a similar ballpark.
I have this build plotted out
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FF9sqs

Anything I could do better here?

Are you RAIDing the HDDs? Seems like you might save money by skipping the SSD if it's really just a storage server that's gonna be up all the time...?
 

Cptkrush

Member
Are you RAIDing the HDDs? Seems like you might save money by skipping the SSD if it's really just a storage server that's gonna be up all the time...?

I am planning on RAIDing the HDDS for safety, the SSD would be used for the OS, but if that's not necessary it can go. Is RAID really necessary these days, or are hard drives still prone to fail randomly?
 

Manp

Member
I am planning on RAIDing the HDDS for safety, the SSD would be used for the OS, but if that's not necessary it can go. Is RAID really necessary these days, or are hard drives still prone to fail randomly?

if it's a storage server you need some sot of redundancy. just remember "raid is not a backup".
 

teiresias

Member
Im also considering a mini itx board for a Broadwell-E. But itll be for my main computer and not a htpc.

Its a bit silly for a gaming htpc yea.

I figured we were at the point where games were becoming more multi-threaded and that going with more physical cores in Broadwell-E would be a good call moving forward, granted one gives up some clockspeed in this scheme I suppose for anything that happens to be single-threaded or thread limited.
 
Quick question: Which would dampen the noise on my PC more effectively:

Rubber Gasket -> Fan Filter -> Fan

or

Fan Filter -> Rubber Gasket -> Fan
 

urge26

Member
Curious as to the thoughts on my build.

Current:
2500K - which I've never been able to overclock stable.
580 GTX SLI (removed one card because running both was causing problems for one reason or another).

Thinking about:

- Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K 3.50 GHz, 6 M Processor Cache 6 for LGA 1151 (BX80662I56600K)
- ASUS Z170-A ATX DDR4 Motherboard
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz (PC4-24000) C15 Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15)
- ASUS STRIX GeForce GTX 970 Overclocked 4 GB DDR5 256-bit DisplayPort HDMI 2.0 DVI-I Graphics Card
- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E250B/AM)

Power supply, case, water cooler reused. Simply want to do 1080p at 60fps with a little future proof.
 
Curious as to the thoughts on my build.

Current:
2500K - which I've never been able to overclock stable.
580 GTX SLI (removed one card because running both was causing problems for one reason or another).

Thinking about:

- Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K 3.50 GHz, 6 M Processor Cache 6 for LGA 1151 (BX80662I56600K)
- ASUS Z170-A ATX DDR4 Motherboard
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz (PC4-24000) C15 Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15)
- ASUS STRIX GeForce GTX 970 Overclocked 4 GB DDR5 256-bit DisplayPort HDMI 2.0 DVI-I Graphics Card
- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E250B/AM)

Power supply, case, water cooler reused. Simply want to do 1080p at 60fps with a little future proof.
Looks pretty good. RGM would suggest you save some bucks and go with the SLI Gigabyte Z170 board (you'll find it linked around here a lot). You may want to consider an R9 390, which can be a bit more potent.

Did you adjust vcore with your 2500k? I'm surprised you didn't have much luck with it. I'm guessing you overlooked some BIOS settings.

As an alternative to this build, you could get a 980 Ti and figure out how to overclock your 2500k and end up with higher framerates, though the 2500k is getting long in the tooth. I plan on replacing mine this year too.
 

RGM79

Member
Quick question: Which would dampen the noise on my PC more effectively:

Rubber Gasket -> Fan Filter -> Fan

or

Fan Filter -> Rubber Gasket -> Fan

Is the fan vibrating that much? I think ideally you'd want rubber on the mount to the case, but as Liljoka says, if it's not vibration and just fan noise then a rubber gasket won't do anything to really lower noise levels.

What cooler do you recommend for OC'ing I'm currently using the EVGA Hadron Air So I don't have much room as this is a Mini-ITX case and a small one at that. A wide cooler would also overlap the ram and screw slots.

According to this guide for the Hadron Air, your best bet is a Noctua NH-C14, but it can be difficult to work with. A list of other CPU coolers are also listed with photos and details about fan placement.

Curious as to the thoughts on my build.

Current:
2500K - which I've never been able to overclock stable.
580 GTX SLI (removed one card because running both was causing problems for one reason or another).

Thinking about:

- Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K 3.50 GHz, 6 M Processor Cache 6 for LGA 1151 (BX80662I56600K)
- ASUS Z170-A ATX DDR4 Motherboard
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz (PC4-24000) C15 Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15)
- ASUS STRIX GeForce GTX 970 Overclocked 4 GB DDR5 256-bit DisplayPort HDMI 2.0 DVI-I Graphics Card
- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E250B/AM)

Power supply, case, water cooler reused. Simply want to do 1080p at 60fps with a little future proof.

Looks mostly fine. How much are those parts costing you? Here's the link to the motherboard that opticalmace mentioned.

So, is this good enough to be a honest (and future-proof) gaming PC with a 450 euro budget?
I already have ssd, hdd, case, psu, and later this year I will buy a new gen mid-high range GPU.

I'm ready to buy if it's all ok.

What are the rest of your parts, where are you buying from, and what country are you in? I can't find many reviews of that motherboard, so depending on what's available I think it might be better to find another motherboard.


How much do you want to spend?
 

urge26

Member
Looks pretty good. RGM would suggest you save some bucks and go with the SLI Gigabyte Z170 board (you'll find it linked around here a lot). You may want to consider an R9 390, which can be a bit more potent.

Did you adjust vcore with your 2500k? I'm surprised you didn't have much luck with it. I'm guessing you overlooked some BIOS settings.

As an alternative to this build, you could get a 980 Ti and figure out how to overclock your 2500k and end up with higher framerates, though the 2500k is getting long in the tooth. I plan on replacing mine this year too.

Thanks optical, I'll look at your suggestions. Things have never been stable with my current build, strange lockups, etc. Was never happy with things and you're probably right with the bios settings. Figured the 6600K is a good future proof upgrade with overclocking.
 

RGM79

Member
RGM79 - about 900 bucks on prime.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($133.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $851.51
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-08 15:00 EST-0500

Hmm.. if you go with these parts, it'll cost you $850 via Newegg. I dunno if you need to account for taxes or rebate or anything.
 
Is the fan vibrating that much? I think ideally you'd want rubber on the mount to the case, but as Liljoka says, if it's not vibration and just fan noise then a rubber gasket won't do anything to really lower noise levels.

Haven't been able to source if the noise is the fans or vibration, but whenever I place my hand or a foreign object on my case I can clearly feel it shaking like a purse chihuahua, so I think it's a good idea if I have at least something to deal with it. Also, I can't use a rubber mounting peg since my fan have the tunnel style screw holes, so I have to settle for the gaskets.
 

urge26

Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($133.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $851.51
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-08 15:00 EST-0500

Hmm.. if you go with these parts, it'll cost you $850 via Newegg. I dunno if you need to account for taxes or rebate or anything.

Thanks! if there is free shipping that should save me some bucks.
 

Red Hood

Banned
Whilst you could get that RAM and it should work fine (it would clock itself at either 1066MHz or more likely 1333MHz) it would be better to just look for 1333MHz memory anyway as it's far more likely to work correctly.

Thanks for the reply. And what if I used 1600 MHz memory on his PC (where apparently 1333 MHz is the limit for his motherboard), will it downright not work at all or will it automatically clock at a lower speed? Because I may have some 1600 MHz memory lying around.
 
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