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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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I upgraded my PC with a new motherboard, cpu (i5 6600k) and 32GB of DDR4-2133 RAM. Paired with a GTX Titan Black from my old build, I should still be able to play any future games at medium to high at 1080p/60fps.

I've been thinking about getting a 980ti or should I wait a couple of months?

That is a beastly machine still. Absolutely wait until the next cards this summer before upgrading.
 
You will lose more than $50 when selling that card. Keep an eye for good deals on used ones, that may be your best chance. There will also be a beta for the game you could use to test your current card.

Why would I lose more than $50, if I'm both buying and selling the card as used? Unless a new card comes out in the interim?

And you're right, I guess I'm as guilty as everyone else for literally forgetting AMD exists lol. I'm usually locked to nVidia because they work much better with Hackintosh (nVidia actually makes their own Mac drivers that will make any nVidia card compatible with OS X, I'm not sure why), but that isn't an issue in this case. Would an R9 Fury X have better resale value?
 
Hey guys. So I game on a laptop. I can play any game on low settings, most at medium with around 20-25FPS. But... I'd like ultra. I can afford it at this point so I want to go for it. The thing is... I'm completely and utterly ignorant of everything involving this process. I looked at the first post and its half a year out of date (I'm assuming that matters since I believe these things get out of date very quickly), so I though it might be best to just ask you kind folks who know about this process. From the first post I took this:
Your Current Specs: Non-existent. ASUS Laptop with a GTX655(I believe).

Budget: Prefer no more than $2,000 including everything. U.S.A. But it's a soft limit because I don't know prices for these things (totally ignorant like I said).

Main Use: 5- Gaming. 4- Streaming Games in HD. 3-Light Gaming. 2- Emulation. 1-Video Editing (but I'd like the option).

Monitor Resolution: 1080p, I will buy a new monitor (I have literally nothing right now- I'm buying everything I need).

List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I'd like to be able to run stuff on Ultra at like 60FPS. Intensive games. Or more. I don't know cost for that though.

How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?: I... what?

Looking to reuse any parts?: No.

When will you build?: I want to make the purchase at the end of March.

Will you be overclocking?: I don't know what that entails. I've heard the term but no idea how to or what it is.
_________________________________________________________________

So here's my thing. I see this website called 'pcpartpicker' in the front post. I went to it and it offers to let you pick... well, a ton of parts. But I don't know the differences between any of these thousands of options. I feel completely overwhelmed. Would anybody be willing to help me out with this? I'm not opposed to doing the research- I've been asking people the last couple days to start but I'll do it if I have to. It's just that I feel like it would be much smarter to ask folks that actually know what they're talking about.
 
So I'm getting closer and closer to the realization that my 6600k is no good. I can't even get an oc at 4.0 with a voltage at 1.3 to stay stable. It'll run fine after the oc then when I restart it'll freeze after windows login.
 
Guys, just built my first computer in a few years. I used a Corsair C70 and a hyper 212 evo. I have to say, this pc is super quiet. So quite I wasNY sure it was on when I first booted it. The only way I knew was by seeing thr LED on the Mobo turn on. Upon closer inspection, all of the fans were indeed on and turning. Cpu temp was hovering around 36 c when running intel stress test, and it was still nearly inaudible.

Is this normal?!? I'm used to my computers sounding like vaccuums.
 

zoozilla

Member
Help me Gaf!

My computer won't boot. It'll get to the motherboard splash screen with the message "press delete to enter BIOS" but pressing delete does nothing. I've already reset the BIOS by clearing the CMOS, and it's still stuck. I know that the BIOS was reset, though, because the fans blow at full speed and that's the default behavior.

I've removed sticks of RAM, unplugged the hard drive, pretty much everything. Right now I've got the absolute bare components on a table and I'm still getting the same problem.
tWEqz4A.jpg

I think the USB ports are okay because the keyboard shows it's getting power (num lock key lights up). One thing I haven't tried yet is changing the power supply, and I'll try that next. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. At this point I'm thinking either the motherboard or v the CPU is done for.
 
I think the USB ports are okay because the keyboard shows it's getting power (num lock key lights up). One thing I haven't tried yet is changing the power supply, and I'll try that next. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. At this point I'm thinking either the motherboard or v the CPU is done for.

If it posts and the keyboard isn't working, try another keyboard/USB port. The keyboard lighting up doesn't necessarily mean you'll get to BIOS with it. I've had similar issues where the back I/O USB ports for some reason didn't work with my keyboard to get into BIOS, but the front USB header worked.
 
Install the Nexus Mod Manager. Scan for games. Click on "download with manager" on the desired mod. Activate on mod manager. Should work.

Enbs and texture mods shouldnt be downloaded with NMM though right?
Hell some dont even give the option to download with NMM,only manually.
 
I really like my build and I'm glad I stuck with it, but I'll never assemble a mini ITX build ever again lol. Most of my woes stemmed from physical reasons and size related compromises. I wanted something that looked sleek in the living room and got it, but now I understand why most seemingly go for larger cases.
 

LQX

Member
Guys, just built my first computer in a few years. I used a Corsair C70 and a hyper 212 evo. I have to say, this pc is super quiet. So quite I wasNY sure it was on when I first booted it. The only way I knew was by seeing thr LED on the Mobo turn on. Upon closer inspection, all of the fans were indeed on and turning. Cpu temp was hovering around 36 c when running intel stress test, and it was still nearly inaudible.

Is this normal?!? I'm used to my computers sounding like vaccuums.

I finished my new system last week and I thought for sure something was wrong. I even put put my fingers into the fan blades. The fact it is nearly silent seems to bother me more though as I can hear the PSU. The damn thing is touted a quite PSU yet it is the loudest thing in my system. It is driving me insane as it is like someone is whispering to me.
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
Really getting the urge to upgrade again, but it feels foolish to get a high end video card right now with some possible big leaps in performance on the horizon.

I'm considering just doing a motherboard, processor, RAM upgrade and sticking with my GTX 970 and current SSDs for now.

It's pretty unlikely that the 7th generation Intel Core processors will be a big leap over the 6th generation stuff, right? I'm planning to go with the 6700k. Any motherboard and RAM recommendations?
 
So in regards to my previous post about 5 posts above this one, someone sent me this:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ZBGk4D

Would anybody have any opinions on this perchance? Would this get me top of the line performance?

Very poor build, doesn't make sense. You're building at the end of March correct? If so I would suggest you post in here in a couple week's time. Prices fluctuate a bit.

But if you want to put a part list together now, what size monitor do you want?
 
So in regards to my previous post about 5 posts above this one, someone sent me this:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ZBGk4D

Would anybody have any opinions on this perchance? Would this get me top of the line performance?

Forget about SLI 980, that's an absolutely terrible choice. 980's are the worst perf/dollar GPU in the high end, and getting two would only make you double the fool. Get a single GTX 980 Ti with a good cooler instead, or settle for a 970 and switch it later for a next gen card that should be out in the latter half of this year.
 
You're building at the end of March correct?
Yessir.
If so I would suggest you post in here in a couple week's time. Prices fluctuate a bit.
Yeah I know they fluctuate. I just want to have an idea of what specific parts I want at that time though, you know? If I wait until the end of March to research, by the time I finish the research I'm sure it'll already be obsolete too haha.

But if you want to put a part list together now, what size monitor do you want?
I don't really know what a typical person uses. I think mine on my laptop is around 16'', but I'd probably go bigger than that in a real monitor.


Forget about SLI 980, that's an absolutely terrible choice. 980's are the worst perf/dollar GPU in the high end, and getting two would only make you double the fool. Get a single GTX 980 Ti with a good cooler instead, or settle for a 970 and switch it later for a next gen card that should be out in the latter half of this year.
A GTX 980 Ti with a good cooler? I'm ignorant on what any of this means so please forgive me, but is there a reason I wouldn't just go for two of those then if they're better for the price?
 
Yessir.
Yeah I know they fluctuate. I just want to have an idea of what specific parts I want at that time though, you know? If I wait until the end of March to research, by the time I finish the research I'm sure it'll already be obsolete too haha.


I don't really know what a typical person uses. I think mine on my laptop is around 16'', but I'd probably go bigger than that in a real monitor.


A GTX 980 Ti with a good cooler? I'm ignorant on what any of this means so please forgive me, but is there a reason I wouldn't just go for two of those then if they're better for the price?

There's one GTX 980 Ti with a decent cooler.
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-gtx980tigaming6g

GTX 980 Ti uses a higher end chip than the 980, it's essentially a considerably higher tier card despite having the same number. A 980 Ti cost around $650 while a 980 goes for $500 or so. Getting two is not a good idea if you're not knowledgeable about SLI and it's issues. The short of it is, two cards don't mean twice the performance, more like twice the problems for some more performance sometimes.

For monitors fitting a 980 ti I recommend a 27" 2560x1440 monitor with G-Sync. These are quite pricey though. Asus PG279Q or Acer XB2710HU are the main contenders, but I'd go for the Asus.
 
Yessir.
Yeah I know they fluctuate. I just want to have an idea of what specific parts I want at that time though, you know? If I wait until the end of March to research, by the time I finish the research I'm sure it'll already be obsolete too haha.


I don't really know what a typical person uses. I think mine on my laptop is around 16'', but I'd probably go bigger than that in a real monitor.


A GTX 980 Ti with a good cooler? I'm ignorant on what any of this means so please forgive me, but is there a reason I wouldn't just go for two of those then if they're better for the price?
Here's a mostly complete build. I'm in Canada so not 100% familiar with US prices, but they should be fine. Expect another few hundred for PSU, monitor and keyboard/mouse. I'd go for an EVGA, seasonic or possibly corsair HX for a PSU, depending on what's on sale.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($369.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.74 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($128.81 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($146.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($649.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1564.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-28 15:42 EST-0500

May be worth thinking about a 1TB SSD, depending on your needs. I went to one and it's nice not needing spinning disks at all.
 
Thank you!
A 980 Ti cost around $650 while a 980 goes for $500 or so. Getting two is not a good idea if you're not knowledgeable about SLI and it's issues.
That price difference isn't too bad for me. I'd rather get the best now than have to update it shortly after. As for being knowledgeable about SLI problems... I certainly am not, hah.
The short of it is, two cards don't mean twice the performance, more like twice the problems for some more performance sometimes.
So I'll stick with one then. Appreciate the advice.

Same for the monitors. The monitors I'm less picky on so I dunno if I'll go all out on them. It's mainly about how the game runs for me, but I'll have to do some more research for sure.



Here's a mostly complete build. I'm in Canada so not 100% familiar with US prices, but they should be fine. Expect another few hundred for PSU, monitor and keyboard/mouse. I'd go for an EVGA, seasonic or possibly corsair HX for a PSU, depending on what's on sale.
PSU. Google tells me 'power supply unit.' Is that separate from everything else that goes in the case then? And as for the monitor and mouse- I've actually got a pretty killer mouse. Corded with about 28 buttons I've used for a while. I adore it. I'll need a monitor though for sure. I'm guessing you can't really go too overboard with power supply though.

May be worth thinking about a 1TB SSD, depending on your needs. I went to one and it's nice not needing spinning disks at all.
Solid State Drive- I knew that one. That just goes in the case somewhere too, I take it? I've heard good things about SSD- that they make bootup and such immensely faster. I'd be totally onboard with one (or 2 if that's a thing) if it can feasibly work. I dunno what you mean by spinning disks though, hah.

Thank you for the time on the links. I appreciate it.

I know I'm like a child when it comes to stuff like this- everything is going way over my head., But I do appreciate ya'll taking the time!
 
Guys, just built my first computer in a few years. I used a Corsair C70 and a hyper 212 evo. I have to say, this pc is super quiet. So quite I wasNY sure it was on when I first booted it. The only way I knew was by seeing thr LED on the Mobo turn on. Upon closer inspection, all of the fans were indeed on and turning. Cpu temp was hovering around 36 c when running intel stress test, and it was still nearly inaudible.

Is this normal?!? I'm used to my computers sounding like vaccuums.

Yeah isn't that funny? I just upgraded my rig as well and have 2 r9 380's in crossfire, and they have a 0db feature which the fans just dont spin at all due to the efficient heatsink when the cards are at idle. This is my 3rd dual gpu system and im used to pretty loud cases with dual cards, but these are literally dead quiet at idle and even at full load the fans are at 48%. For once, my case fans are the loudest part of my system and even they are relatively quiet!
 
Could someone help me parse this S.M.A.R.T. info from Speccy?



Why does every category say "Good" but overall it says "Warning"?

Is my drive on thin ice right now?

I'm just trying to figure out whether my issues are hardware or software related.
 

Mman235

Member
So I'm getting closer and closer to the realization that my 6600k is no good. I can't even get an oc at 4.0 with a voltage at 1.3 to stay stable. It'll run fine after the oc then when I restart it'll freeze after windows login.

Is your power supply new/decent quality? I'm wondering because I recently had a ton of problems overclocking my 6600K using a high quality but ~5 year old PSU and it was hard to maintain even modest overclocks. Now I've replaced that power supply with a new one (not for this in particular, but I wanted to due to it's age) and I can overclock to 4.4 with no issues after a little tweaking. If your answer to both my first questions was "yes" then I guess this isn't the culprit but it seems it's worth checking.
 
Is your power supply new/decent quality? I'm wondering because I recently had a ton of problems overclocking my 6600K using a high quality but ~5 year old PSU and it was hard to maintain even modest overclocks. Now I've replaced that power supply with a new one (not for this in particular, but I wanted to due to it's age) and I can overclock to 4.4 with no issues after a little tweaking. If your answer to both my first questions was "yes" then I guess this isn't the culprit but it seems it's worth checking.
Ya I bought it at the same time as everything else. It's a good evga 650 wat 80+gold. It doesn't seem to be the problem at least. I did just grab the newest bios (even though it's a beta build) and that seems to be keeping things more stable. Burn test is fine at 4.2 but I did up voltage to 1.33 so we'll see how it goes. Thanks for the help.
 

LilJoka

Member
Could someone help me parse this S.M.A.R.T. info from Speccy?




Why does every category say "Good" but overall it says "Warning"?

Is my drive on thin ice right now?

I'm just trying to figure out whether my issues are hardware or software related.

Can you try HDtune for a 2nd opinion.

From those stats, 16 sectors need re allocating but 16 are pending, meaning there is no more spare sectors to reallocate too. Therefore some sectors are fed and irrecoverable, signs of death soon possibly.
 

McHuj

Member
Quick, question. Can anyone recommend a motherboard for Skylake that has really good audio capabilities?

I'm thinking about upgrading my 3770k to a 6700k (my old MB broke a while a go and the only one I could get doesn't allow OC'ing).

I'd like to get a good MB, but really don't have the slightest idea which audio chipset is better or worse and I don't want to run a separate sound card.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
I really like my build and I'm glad I stuck with it, but I'll never assemble a mini ITX build ever again lol. Most of my woes stemmed from physical reasons and size related compromises. I wanted something that looked sleek in the living room and got it, but now I understand why most seemingly go for larger cases.

Yup. If I go SFF again, I'm buying prebuilt. I keep my PC under my desk so in hindsight I could easily have gone bigger
 

drotahorror

Member
Anyone have any suggestions on a good free cd ripper/converter/burner? Doesn't have to do it all but would be nice.

I used to use ez cdda extractor like 10 years ago but I don't want to try drop $40 on something I'll only use very situationally (but a few times a year is likely).
 

Gurrry

Member
So I went and got the PC I was referring to on the last page

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypow...hite/4585900.p?id=1219773226138&skuId=4585900

Im reinstalling all my steam games (omg this is taking forever). Im super pumped though. The mouse it came with is godlike, but im not digging this keyboard. Ill probably use my old one.

It has some bad ass lighting inside and I can change the colors if I want, although Ill probably keep it off just to keep any unneccessary heat out of it.

I cant wait to actually try some games out and see how it runs. My old pc could run games just fine, but this should be able to run almost all the games I own at ultra.

OH! And it came with a code for the Division! So I guess ill be playing that game on PC afterall!
 

popo

Member
Would a cable work like this? Or would I have to pick up this adapter?

EDIT: Nevermind. Looks like it's not even possible without an active adapter which cost about $130.

Having looked in to this a year or so ago, I can confirm that a passive cable will not work. Passive works for displayport out to HDMI/DVI in, but not the other way around.
 

Bloodember

Member
So I went and got the PC I was referring to on the last page

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypow...hite/4585900.p?id=1219773226138&skuId=4585900

Im reinstalling all my steam games (omg this is taking forever). Im super pumped though. The mouse it came with is godlike, but im not digging this keyboard. Ill probably use my old one.

It has some bad ass lighting inside and I can change the colors if I want, although Ill probably keep it off just to keep any unneccessary heat out of it.

I cant wait to actually try some games out and see how it runs. My old pc could run games just fine, but this should be able to run almost all the games I own at ultra.

OH! And it came with a code for the Division! So I guess ill be playing that game on PC afterall!
If the lights in the case are led, they dont make any heat, you'll be fine to have them on.
 

zoozilla

Member
If it posts and the keyboard isn't working, try another keyboard/USB port. The keyboard lighting up doesn't necessarily mean you'll get to BIOS with it. I've had similar issues where the back I/O USB ports for some reason didn't work with my keyboard to get into BIOS, but the front USB header worked.

So it turns out that my BIOS was corrupted somehow. I ended up updating the BIOS using ASUS's Flashback thingy that lets you update the BIOS with nothing but a USB stick and power to the MB. It was a lifesaver of a feature for me. My PC seems like it's running fine now, knock on wood.

Thanks for the suggestion though.
 
My suggestion is to not use any. I had Avast for a while but then realized it was slowing my start up time and causing hangups. But do some research first to feel comfortable.
Not to use any antivirus, or any free antivirus? Surely protecting your computer is worth the few extra seconds, no?

Also, if anybody would like to make recommendations to improve the following link for within a couple hundred of that price point, please feel free.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/46H3K8

Namely I'm worried that reviews say that tower is small (so at some point I'd be unable to upgrade stuff because I wouldn't have room or something?), and I'm wondering if that link actually has every little thing I'd need aside from a monitor, keyboard, mouse, and software.
 

Mikeside

Member
Oh sweet! Thats good to know because these lights look too cool to turn off anyway, hahaa.

Sidenote: Does anyone know of a good free antivirus software?

Microsoft Security Essentials is fine
If you're on Win 8/10, it's rolled into Windows Defender, so don't worry about it
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
I've never used antivirus software before outside of Windows Defender/Microsoft Security Essentials.
 
My suggestion is to not use any. I had Avast for a while but then realized it was slowing my start up time and causing hangups. But do some research first to feel comfortable.

That's the dumbest thing you could do to your computer.

At the very least one could just install Microsoft Security Essentials for basic security.
 

maguskain

Member
That's the dumbest thing you could do to your computer.

At the very least one could just install Microsoft Security Essentials for basic security.

Sorry, that's what I meant. Use the Microsoft defaults rather than slowing your PC down with free options

Edit: I use Security Essentials along with Malware Bytes Anti Exploit tool. Then periodically run the MalwareBytes application.
 
Can you try HDtune for a 2nd opinion.

From those stats, 16 sectors need re allocating but 16 are pending, meaning there is no more spare sectors to reallocate too. Therefore some sectors are fed and irrecoverable, signs of death soon possibly.

Sure, I'm not quite sure what to do in HDTune but here is some info:

Code:
HD Tune Pro: ST2000DM001-9YN164 Health

ID                               Current  Worst    ThresholdData             Status   
(01) Raw Read Error Rate         105      74       6        122375760        ok       
(03) Spin Up Time                93       92       0        0                ok       
(04) Start/Stop Count            100      100      20       930              ok       
(05) Reallocated Sector Count    51       51       36       64800            warning  
(07) Seek Error Rate             66       60       30       4298820227       ok       
(09) Power On Hours Count        74       74       0        23139            ok       
(0A) Spin Retry Count            100      100      97       0                ok       
(0C) Power Cycle Count           100      100      20       944              ok       
(B7) SATA Downshift Count        100      100      0        0                ok       
(B8) End To End Error Detection  100      100      99       0                ok       
(BB) Uncorrectable Error Count   1        1        0        1910             ok       
(BC) Command Timeout             100      94       0        103080787994     ok       
(BD) Unknown Attribute           6        6        0        94               ok       
(BE) Airflow Temperature         65       48       45       622985251        ok       
(BF) G-sense Error Rate          100      100      0        0                ok       
(C0) Unsafe Shutdown Count       100      100      0        50               ok       
(C1) Load Cycle Count            97       97       0        6833             ok       
(C2) Temperature                 35       52       0        68719476771      ok       
(C5) Current Pending Sector      100      1        0        16               warning  
(C6) Offline Uncorrectable       100      1        0        16               ok       
(C7) Interface CRC Error Count   200      200      0        0                ok       
(F0) Head Flying Hours           100      253      0        151406187141746  ok       
(F1) Unknown Attribute           100      253      0        176358862142903  ok       
(F2) Unknown Attribute           100      253      0        179222318564937  ok       

Health Status         : warning


I have no idea what any of that means, but for some reason I'm worried.

I'm about to pull the trigger on this shopping cart... hopefully I don't need anything else to bail out all my info on this drive.

 
Enbs and texture mods shouldnt be downloaded with NMM though right?
Hell some dont even give the option to download with NMM,only manually.

Haven't used NMM for NV in a while but yea, some of them you may have to install manually. Usually just follow the instructions in the description and you should be good.
 

Bloodember

Member
Oh sweet! Thats good to know because these lights look too cool to turn off anyway, hahaa.

Sidenote: Does anyone know of a good free antivirus software?

The defender isn't that great, if you want a good free antivirus, check out Avira and Avast!. You just need to watch when you are installing them to not let them install extra stuff, Avira will try to install a few trials, just say no to the prompts. Avast! didn't have anything the last time I used it though.
 
That would be a pretty great general gaming PC but I doubt it would be very future proof for VR because you are just meeting the minimum spec.

Also, have you preordered your Rift yet because if you order one right now you won't get it until July. In 4-5 months you might be able to get a slightly better system for your $1000.

Perhaps there's something I don't understand, but I don't get why people keep ignoring Oculus's actual recommendations.

They recommend a GTX 970 (w/ a decent processor, = ~$1,000 for the whole PC), so everyone assumes that a 970 will be barely adequate. If that was the case, wouldn't Oculus be recommending a more powerful/expensive card?

When Oculus announced the system requirements, they also said that one of the reasons they're so high right now is so that won't have to be adjusted in the foreseeable future—ie, the price will naturally come down over time, but anyone who has already bought in won't have to upgrade for a while.
 

Lonely1

Unconfirmed Member
So, i have an H60 corsair liquid cooling solution and its too noisy! But the problem seems to be the fan rather than the pump. Is this common?
 
Hey guys. I'd appreciate any feedback you have on this build:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/f3H4K8

I think my i7 940 is starting to show it's age and i've always wanted to build in an HTPC case anyway so i think it's time for an upgrade.

I already have a 980SC that i'll bring over, but the rest of the build will be all new. I have two in the build list just for calc'ing the power requirements. I've been tossing around SLI in the future, so i just wanted to future proof the power supply. I'll likely replace the 980 when Pascal shows up later this year if the performance increase makes sense.

I'm hoping to run things, at a minimum, at all ultra settings at 1080P. If I could do some super sampling/DSR and/or run at 1440P that would be great too.

I'm hardly the most well versed in this stuff so I am open to suggestions.

Thanks!
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
Really getting the urge to upgrade again, but it feels foolish to get a high end video card right now with some possible big leaps in performance on the horizon.

I'm considering just doing a motherboard, processor, RAM upgrade and sticking with my GTX 970 and current SSDs for now.

It's pretty unlikely that the 7th generation Intel Core processors will be a big leap over the 6th generation stuff, right? I'm planning to go with the 6700k. Any motherboard and RAM recommendations?

Sorry to bump my own post, but any advice on motherboards to accompany the 6700k?

I've spent a bit of time researching, and it appears that the ASUS Z170 boards are very popular, but I'm having trouble determining which is the sweet spot.

Maybe the Z170-K? I would like more onboard USB 3.0 ports, though...

Any suggestions?
 
I might be getting a new 1150 mobo from a friend. I'm still running an amd 1090t so anything would be a massive improvement, but what's the sweet spot for Intel 1150 cpus under say $200?
 

RGM79

Member
I might be getting a new 1150 mobo from a friend. I'm still running an amd 1090t so anything would be a massive improvement, but what's the sweet spot for Intel 1150 cpus under say $200?
What motherboard are you getting? If you want the ability to overclock, you'll have to get an i5 4690K which is $225 (or $200 at a local Microcenter store).

If not overclocking, then the i5 4460 which is $175 at the lowest. If you live near a Microcenter store, it's $160 for the slightly faster i5 4590.

Sorry to bump my own post, but any advice on motherboards to accompany the 6700k?

I've spent a bit of time researching, and it appears that the ASUS Z170 boards are very popular, but I'm having trouble determining which is the sweet spot.

Maybe the Z170-K? I would like more onboard USB 3.0 ports, though...

Any suggestions?

What other parts are you looking at and how much do you have budgeted for this upgrade?

Hey guys. I'd appreciate any feedback you have on this build:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/f3H4K8

I think my i7 940 is starting to show it's age and i've always wanted to build in an HTPC case anyway so i think it's time for an upgrade.

I already have a 980SC that i'll bring over, but the rest of the build will be all new. I have two in the build list just for calc'ing the power requirements. I've been tossing around SLI in the future, so i just wanted to future proof the power supply. I'll likely replace the 980 when Pascal shows up later this year if the performance increase makes sense.

I'm hoping to run things, at a minimum, at all ultra settings at 1080P. If I could do some super sampling/DSR and/or run at 1440P that would be great too.

I'm hardly the most well versed in this stuff so I am open to suggestions.

Thanks!

Will you be overclocking? I'd advise against the Asus Hero motherboard. Check out the Newegg user reviews, they indicate some common issues that a fair number of people are having, mainly RAM and system stability.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
GTX 780 Ti still going strong @ 1080p since launch day. I believe this is the longest I've ever kept a videocard before upgrading.
 
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