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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Most likely it is the processor. I had the same issue last month in this thread when I built my PC. Same symptoms of getting no video and POST(fans and lights work!) and after swapping ram, mobo, etc... The moment I put in a replacement cpu, everything functioned fine again.
Still worth testing all variables though, but your problem sounds identical. I just was unlucky to get a defunct i7 6700 I guess.
Interesting mine is a i7-6700k
BorntoPlay
Member
i got a i5-6500 for $165 on Black Friday, so that save me like $90 for the same overclocking potential, and ram overclocking is not a problem...
So here's where I am as of now (got a pcpartpicker account finally!). Jesus i did not realize what a beast I have on my hands here (damn aussie dollar fx rate).
I'm torn on the need for a new case: on the one hand what I have in the 500R is perfectly fine but offers zero future expansion but the realist in me says no need to drop $300 on the Phantek (or $400 on the inWin909) right now - better to wait till I next upgrade which likely wont be for a long time.
The monitor however...I am sorely tempted by the ASUS PG279Q to sit alongside dedicated to gaming.
http://au.pcpartpicker.com/user/mightymulac/saved/jjfXsY
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($357.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII FORMULA ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($135.00 @ Scorptec)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.00 @ CPL Online)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB STRIX Video Card ($729.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Corsair 500R Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($165.00 @ IJK)
Power Supply: Corsair 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($229.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Optical Drive: LG BH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($85.00 @ CPL Online)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro Full (32/64-bit) ($245.00 @ CPL Online)
Monitor: Dell U3415W 60Hz 34.0" Monitor ($1289.00 @ CPL Online)
Keyboard: SteelSeries Apex M800 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($239.00 @ CPL Online)
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M60 Wired Laser Mouse
Headphones: SteelSeries H Headset ($399.00 @ CPL Online)
Speakers: Corsair Gaming Audio Series SP2500 232W 2.1ch Speakers ($345.00 @ Umart)
External Storage: Seagate Expansion 4TB External Hard Drive
Total: $4445.00
I'm torn on the need for a new case: on the one hand what I have in the 500R is perfectly fine but offers zero future expansion but the realist in me says no need to drop $300 on the Phantek (or $400 on the inWin909) right now - better to wait till I next upgrade which likely wont be for a long time.
The monitor however...I am sorely tempted by the ASUS PG279Q to sit alongside dedicated to gaming.
http://au.pcpartpicker.com/user/mightymulac/saved/jjfXsY
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($357.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII FORMULA ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($135.00 @ Scorptec)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.00 @ CPL Online)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB STRIX Video Card ($729.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Corsair 500R Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($165.00 @ IJK)
Power Supply: Corsair 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($229.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Optical Drive: LG BH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($85.00 @ CPL Online)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro Full (32/64-bit) ($245.00 @ CPL Online)
Monitor: Dell U3415W 60Hz 34.0" Monitor ($1289.00 @ CPL Online)
Keyboard: SteelSeries Apex M800 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($239.00 @ CPL Online)
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M60 Wired Laser Mouse
Headphones: SteelSeries H Headset ($399.00 @ CPL Online)
Speakers: Corsair Gaming Audio Series SP2500 232W 2.1ch Speakers ($345.00 @ Umart)
External Storage: Seagate Expansion 4TB External Hard Drive
Total: $4445.00
opticalmace
Member
Makes sense for the 6500, the 6600 though I think is too close in cost to the K model.
Trying to decide on a motherboard. My budget allows for up to around $180. I am currently leaning towards the Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 or MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Carbon. Any suggestions or thoughts on these two boards would be appreciated.
Edit: Ended up ordering the GIGABYTE GA-Z170X-Gaming 6.
Edit: Ended up ordering the GIGABYTE GA-Z170X-Gaming 6.
Bloodember
Member
Try resetting your bios, there should be a button on the motherboard. Had to do that with mine to get it to work.
Its good, very solid - i used it a while ago for both work and gaming Not the best mechanical keyboard ever used but you'll be happy with it.
Use one as my main keyboard right now, after coming from a quickfire. Probably the cheapest RGB tkl you can get. I like it though. Red switches are my favorite.
Any reason for the GTX 980? Looking over AU prices it's a lot like here and it makes more sense to save cash with a Radeon 390 or GTX 970 since they are only a step slower and use the savings for a next gen upgrade, or pay more for the GTX 980 Ti as it is noticeably faster and you can ride it out much longer until you upgrade.
Future-proof and I got a good deal on it last year.
To be clear, this is my CURRENT setup - I already have all this
Looking at the Asus monitor to actually make use of it...think i've decided for the moment to keep the case as is since its keeping my temps and airflow pretty good sofar:
750W PSU
Nvidia GTX 970 Turbo
16 gigs of ddr3 ram
CoolerMaster N400 case.
I'm looking into upgrading my PC and getting a socket 1150 Motherboard and i5 CPU. I'm going to be keeping the parts listed above and I'm having a bit of trouble finding a good 1150 motherboard that's affordable and can handle gaming. Any suggestions?
Nvidia GTX 970 Turbo
16 gigs of ddr3 ram
CoolerMaster N400 case.
I'm looking into upgrading my PC and getting a socket 1150 Motherboard and i5 CPU. I'm going to be keeping the parts listed above and I'm having a bit of trouble finding a good 1150 motherboard that's affordable and can handle gaming. Any suggestions?
wife just gave me the OK to drop some dough on a new gpu. its between a gtx 970 and r9 390 since that is my price range. will be playing on a 1080p 144hz screen. i WAS set on the 970, but some other threads have popped up and other posters are suggesting the 390 over the 970. guide my way gaf.
andrerobot
Member
So I think I'll replace the MAXIMUS VIII Hero with an MSI Z170A GAMING M7, or a Gigabyte GA-Z170X GAMING 7 (or GT if I find it cheap).
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131GA4PK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012IBPJ6I/?tag=neogaf0e-20
What I like about the Gigabyte board is all the ports, decent audio, and the built in Thunderbolt 3 that I'll probably never use.
The MSI hardware hotkey support, which allows to turn on from S5 state from a USB keyboard. The VIII Hero has that too, which was pretty nice as my build is an HTPC setup, so I turned on the PC using a wireless keyboard. The problem with the MSI though, is that the docs say the combo for turning on is PrtSc+F12, which is a problem as my el cheapo wireless keyboard doesn't have a PrtSc key. I'm trying to figure out if the hotkey is configurable. In the VIII Hero, it wasn't, but it worked with just the Enter key.
The MSI has a Killer NIC instead of Intel, which kinda sucks.
In any case most modern motherboard would allow the PC to be woken up from Sleep (S3) with just a mouse click, right?
Edit: Are Asrock or EVGA Z-170 boards any good?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131GA4PK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012IBPJ6I/?tag=neogaf0e-20
What I like about the Gigabyte board is all the ports, decent audio, and the built in Thunderbolt 3 that I'll probably never use.
The MSI hardware hotkey support, which allows to turn on from S5 state from a USB keyboard. The VIII Hero has that too, which was pretty nice as my build is an HTPC setup, so I turned on the PC using a wireless keyboard. The problem with the MSI though, is that the docs say the combo for turning on is PrtSc+F12, which is a problem as my el cheapo wireless keyboard doesn't have a PrtSc key. I'm trying to figure out if the hotkey is configurable. In the VIII Hero, it wasn't, but it worked with just the Enter key.
The MSI has a Killer NIC instead of Intel, which kinda sucks.
In any case most modern motherboard would allow the PC to be woken up from Sleep (S3) with just a mouse click, right?
Edit: Are Asrock or EVGA Z-170 boards any good?
opticalmace
Member
Take a wide angle shot of the motherboard in your case? Maybe CPU power cable isn't plugged in all the way, or hopefully not but your CPU socket might be damaged..
What are your system specs, and importantly, what model of motherboard and RAM?
You could enable the XMP setting and that will make it run at 2400MHz profile setting, but it occasionally doesn't work for some people and some combinations of hardware. If you want to take a shot at manually overclocking, look at this guide?
It'd be preferable over the older i5 4670, yes. I recommend you look for a B150 or H170 motherboard, and DDR4 2133MHz RAM.
Hey guys, I posted this to the Tech Support thread but it's pretty quiet, so I wanted to post here too just to maybe gain some traction:
I just installed a couple windows 10 updates, and after restart my screen now boots to black and stays there. It loads the motherboard logo (and I can access the BIOS), but anything beyond that is just black. I have NO idea what happened, and I can't get into Safe Mode or anything. I tried taking out my GPU and booting straight from the motherboard, but that's the same problem. Here's my setup.
i7-4790
R9 290
16GB RAM
ASUS B85M-E
I have ZERO idea what to do here, I have no idea why it's doing this now. I've reset the BIOS, and updated the BIOS. Any ideas?
I just installed a couple windows 10 updates, and after restart my screen now boots to black and stays there. It loads the motherboard logo (and I can access the BIOS), but anything beyond that is just black. I have NO idea what happened, and I can't get into Safe Mode or anything. I tried taking out my GPU and booting straight from the motherboard, but that's the same problem. Here's my setup.
i7-4790
R9 290
16GB RAM
ASUS B85M-E
I have ZERO idea what to do here, I have no idea why it's doing this now. I've reset the BIOS, and updated the BIOS. Any ideas?
DrForester
Kills Photobucket
Update:
I got a new Motherboard, and went ahead an upgraded to an i6500. Everything installed fine.
I never did figure out what was wrong. I kept getting the same error on different hard drives and different boots (DVD and USB). I even tried loading up Windows 7 and got the same error. Flashed the MB bios.
I looked online to see if anyone else saw this error and turned up empty.
According to this the HAF 932 will take CPU coolers up to ~172mm in height, and the Noctua NH-D15's official product page says it is 165mm tall. You'll have a little bit of room to spare.
Do you care about the Division or the new Hitman game? The former is being bundled with the GTX 970 and the latter is being bundled with the R9 390. If cost is a concern, a decent R9 390 can be had for a little bit cheaper than a good GTX 970. Even the cheapest R9 390 models listed there are fairly decent and have good aftermarket style coolers like the Gigabyte Windforce or the Sapphire Nitro. On the other hand, the cheapest GTX 970 cards I'd recommend are the $305 Zotac ZT-90101-10P or the $310 and up EVGA models.
Sounds like Windows killed itself somehow? Do you even see a Windows logo on startup? I don't think there's a way to do a repair installation of Windows 10 if you can't boot it up at all.. you might be forced to have to save your files to external media with a bootable OS and then reinstall Windows.
Thanks for the input. I want to pick up the division, don't care about hitman. but I wont let a free game sway my decision. I'm more concerned about the ram with these cards. They'll need to last at least 2 years (im sure both would) until a upper-midrange pascal comes out.
hoooly hell, i've had an evening. i got my tax return today and had already decided that i'd be upgrading some stuff in my rig. i went out and got a new wifi adapter, a Define R5 (i hated my old case so much), and a Hydro H110i GT because i had still been using the stock Intel cooler. so i took everything out of the old case, installed the cooler, got everything nice and dandy! went to start the computer and it started fine... for about 6 seconds before it would power off completely, wait a second, start back up, power back down, etc until i would unplug it. so i had to take EVERYTHING out and test each piece of equipment one by one. turns out the H110i wasn't seated on the CPU properly because after i took it off and rescrewed it back on, the computer started up just fine.
now i gotta learn how to overclock my CPU.
now i gotta learn how to overclock my CPU.
Hehe I kind of already completely disassembled it one of the first things I tried though was a complete removal and re-seating of the Power cord.
Your post made me realize what the actual issue is though... I didn't plug in the CPU power supply...
hahaha...
Man I feel stupid
I might still need to RMA the board as I accidentally yanked out a cable that got caught that attaches to the built in wifi. I'm going to try to reattach it but I'm not sure how well it will work.
no, no windows logo
therealminime
Member
Hopefully this is the right place to ask. I am going to be moving up to Skylake from an old 2600k build, so I'm putting in a new motherboard, the 6700k, and new DDR4 RAM, keeping everything else (PSU, GPU, etc.) and am wondering what the best practices are for Windows. I am running Windows 10 (upgraded from 7 over the summer) and I'm not sure what the best way to go about this is. I've got a dedicated SSD for Windows and core apps, I know I can wipe it and do a fresh install of Win 10 but I'm not sure how to go about that considering Win 10 is a free upgrade. I've also read that you can do the hardware installations without reinstalling windows and instead repair it but I don't necessarily like the sound of it.
I also know that if need be I can just dig up the old Win 7 disk and install Windows 7 than re-upgrade to Win 10 but that seems like more work than needed.
This type of upgrading is something I have no experience with, particularly now with their weird free OS, so any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
I also know that if need be I can just dig up the old Win 7 disk and install Windows 7 than re-upgrade to Win 10 but that seems like more work than needed.
This type of upgrading is something I have no experience with, particularly now with their weird free OS, so any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Current cpu is an fx8320 and I'm buying in Australia my budget isn't anything over 200 au, if it's a small bump in price I won't mind though. I will be going all out on an i5 .
If you create a new bootable USB Windows 10 install with the Microsoft tool, when it is time to install Windows you can just plug in the Windows 7 key and it should work.
Because you'd be upgrading the motherboard however I'm not sure if it would activate once Win10 is fully installed since it is tied to your old hardware ID. Hopefully someone can enlighten us on that part.
Novum_Veritas
Member
You have to upgrade from Windows 7 or 8.1 once, Windows has to be activated, need to upgrade via the Media creation tool.
After you've upgraded to Windows 10, the Windows 7 or 8.1 key is getting registered at the MS servers for Windows 10 activation.
MS calls that Digital entitlement, the key will be bound to your hardware setup.
When the hardware changes, you need to redo the procedure again, e.g switching the Motherboard.
EVA UNIT 01
Member
So this could have warranted a new thread but I didnt wanna waste my first on it.
2 of my top reasons for building a PC were as follows.
The OG Deus Ex
and System shock 2.
Now I see both are on steam and thats great,but I can also see they havnt aged well.
Are there any mods that help them to become more enjoyable for modern sensibilities.
Or are they just that damn great vanilla?
Also do I need to play the original SS in order to get the full impact of SS2?
2 of my top reasons for building a PC were as follows.
The OG Deus Ex
and System shock 2.
Now I see both are on steam and thats great,but I can also see they havnt aged well.
Are there any mods that help them to become more enjoyable for modern sensibilities.
Or are they just that damn great vanilla?
Also do I need to play the original SS in order to get the full impact of SS2?
I think for game modding related questions, the Steam thread might be more appropriate and helpful than this one
http://neogaf.com/showthread.php?t=1191652I know there is a plethora of improvement mods for SS2, though I don't have the compilation link I saw a few months ago handy. No idea about Deus ex
camequipped
Member
Hey guys, long time lurker here. Just wanna say thanks to the contributors in this thread for reigniting my passion in PC gaming. I have been playing Witcher 3 for the past couple of days and it feels like a different game compared to when I completed it on the PS4. Not trying to shit on the PS4 or anything, it suited my needs but I'm sure you catch my drift.
Edit: Forgot my purpose for posting in the first place. Can someone please recommend me a CPU cooler? Currently running an i7 6700 so I'm not looking to overclock. I've heard good things about the CoolerMaster Hyper 212X, not sure what you guys think?
cheers.
Edit: Forgot my purpose for posting in the first place. Can someone please recommend me a CPU cooler? Currently running an i7 6700 so I'm not looking to overclock. I've heard good things about the CoolerMaster Hyper 212X, not sure what you guys think?
cheers.
Thanks.
It's what I suspected.
I don't feel so much comfortable with that, but I have to keep cool a 5820K and I don't see so many alternatives [NH-D15S, NH-D14 and NH-U14S have the same height, according to Noctua website].
opticalmace
Member
212 Evo is always a safe bet (unless you have a really tiny case). Nice to hear about your passion with pc gaming!
therealminime
Member
So probably the best course of action is to just install Windows 7 than do the upgrade to 10 again?
Gen.Grievous
Member
I installed Windows 10 from a usb stick on a completely new build, used my old Windows 7 retail key during installation and it activated just fine. There is no need to install a legacy Windows first.
Novum_Veritas
Member
Exactly, install Windows 7 with SP1, activate your Windows 7, use the media creation tool and upgrade to Windows 10. Windows 7 Key will be used to activate Windows 10.
Beware, if you change hardware, you have to do the procedure again, because the key needs to be bound to your hardware.
Was it your first activation? Or had you already activated it once?
This only works if you have the same configuration of your hardware.
If the Hardware changes e.g. MainBoard you have to do the procedure upgrading from Windows 7 or 8.1 once again.
Bloodember
Member
No you dont, if you've already upgraded to Windows 10, and change hardware, just install Windows 10 and use the Windows 7 or 8 key, no need to do the upgrade process again, the key is already bound to Windows 10. I have done this twice.
Novum_Veritas
Member
The weird thing is I already tried it too.
Did the procedure with my former PC, went without problems.
Wanted to do the same with my new PC and Windows said not possible because digital entitlement.
MS support guy said the same that you have to to do the procedure once so it is bound.
I must admit the whole activation crap is annoying anyway, especially if it's not working.
Maybe I should retry again, and I used Windows 10 1511, so that can't be the problem.
hardcastlemccormick
Banned
Alright so my gaming PC is old. I don't expect miracles. I basically just want a glorified Xbox 360 at this point; something I can use to play my backlog on for a while. I'm usually playing at 720p; the settings depend on the game. Stuff like Arkham Origins I get 720p60 at high settings and that's awesome.
Intel E8500 dual core 3.16 Ghz
6 GB of DDR2 800Mhz RAM
Geforce 730 2GB GDDR5 64 bit
I gotta have a locked 30 though and I'm not getting that even on lowest settings for some games. Games I would like to get 720p30 on: Witcher 2, Darksiders, Final Fantasy 13, Lego Marvel, Battlefield 3, Saints Row 4, The Last Remnant, Hard Reset, Doom 3 BFG (locked 60 in this case), Red Faction Guerrilla, and Wasteland 2. It would be nice to get Far Cry 3/Blood Dragon or Portal 2 off of the lowest settings as well.
My question: is there any obvious upgrade I can make here to improve my experience? I'll probably fully replace the whole PC in two or three years but I'd just like a bandaid to improve my experience for now, if possible.
Intel E8500 dual core 3.16 Ghz
6 GB of DDR2 800Mhz RAM
Geforce 730 2GB GDDR5 64 bit
I gotta have a locked 30 though and I'm not getting that even on lowest settings for some games. Games I would like to get 720p30 on: Witcher 2, Darksiders, Final Fantasy 13, Lego Marvel, Battlefield 3, Saints Row 4, The Last Remnant, Hard Reset, Doom 3 BFG (locked 60 in this case), Red Faction Guerrilla, and Wasteland 2. It would be nice to get Far Cry 3/Blood Dragon or Portal 2 off of the lowest settings as well.
My question: is there any obvious upgrade I can make here to improve my experience? I'll probably fully replace the whole PC in two or three years but I'd just like a bandaid to improve my experience for now, if possible.
Bloodember
Member
Yes it is, wish they would do just bind the OS to your account.
opticalmace
Member
GPU is the obvious one. Maybe a GTX 950 or 960?
Gen.Grievous
Member
This was my first activation. The Windows 7 key was used on a completely different PC right up to the moment I build a new system and installed Windows 10 with it.
Novum_Veritas
Member
Yeah, it is annoying, the limit with activation's over the Internet and calling the hotline again. I've read if you bought the key via the Windows Store it activates over your Windows store account?
@Gen.Grievous
I see, worked with the 1st activation here too for me.
After I wanted to activate Windows 10 with my Windows 8.1 key the 2nd time it didn't work because the 1st activation was done with a totally different PC.
This is stupid. Way to go MS, very customer friendly.
hardcastlemccormick
Banned
Awesome, just the answer I was looking for.
Yikes. I figured the Windows 10 activation would be simpler than this...
Novum_Veritas
Member
MS even made it more confusing. I wonder how this will work when the free period of Windows 10 is over.
When you change your hardware or build a new PC, you cannot use this method anymore because you are not entitled to it anymore.
So basically you have to buy a Windows 10 licence then.
You misunderstand, going through the upgrade process converts the old Windows 7/8/8.1 license into a Windows 10 license. The offer is a time window to allow users to convert their licenses to Windows 10, not a trial period to use Windows 10. It will not matter once the offer is over because the user will already have a Windows 10 license. Remember, Microsoft wants everyone to move away from Windows 7/8/8.1, they won't force everyone to downgrade again for no reason. See here.
Digital entitlement is Microsoft's term for their new online activation scheme that does not require a product key. As long as the computer has has Windows 10 activated before, a record is kept on Microsoft's servers that will automatically reactivate the same PC if Windows 10 is installed.
If you activated a free upgrade to Windows 10 or bought and activated Windows 10 from the Windows Store, you have a digital entitlement for your device. This means you can reinstall the same edition of Windows 10 that your device has a digital entitlement for without entering a product key. During reinstallation, if you’re asked to enter a product key, select Skip. Windows 10 will automatically activate online after the installation is complete.
It says at the bottom at "Activating Windows 10 after a hardware configuration change" that:
If you upgraded to Windows 10 using the free upgrade offer and then made significant hardware changes to your device, such as replacing the motherboard, Windows 10 might no longer be activated. For help on how to activate your device, contact customer support.
In the past, older versions of Windows that activated with license keys could also be somewhat tied to hardware. If you performed some parts changes/upgrades and tried entering the old key when reinstalling Windows, sometimes it would reject the key as it believed the computer it was being installed on was a new and different computer compared to the one it was originally activated on. In those cases, you would also have had to contact Microsoft support and get help manually activating Windows. In Windows 10, it is no different. All that's changed for digital entitlement is that you have no Windows 10 product key, just the old Windows 7/8/8.1 key (well hopefully you saved it somewhere).
They do it this way so people can't cheat the system and get Windows 10 activated on different PCs other than the one they have the old copy of Windows 7/8/8.1 on. They're not simply handing out free Windows 10 license keys and for new PCs without an OS. They want you you upgrade away from Windows 7/8/8.1, hence the media creation tool and the targeted upgrades for older Windows users.
Are you doing heavy overclocking? If not, simpler and smaller air coolers will be fine.
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