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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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OK thanks for the clarifications. I will install Windows 10 via USB and if it activates, great, if not than I will be in touch with MS Support. And if all goes to shit, I still have the good old Windows 7 disk to fall back to. Thanks all.
 
You misunderstand, going through the upgrade process converts the old Windows 7/8/8.1 license into a Windows 10 license. The offer is a time window to allow users to convert their licenses to Windows 10, not a trial period to use Windows 10. It will not matter once the offer is over because the user will already have a Windows 10 license. Remember, Microsoft wants everyone to move away from Windows 7/8/8.1, they won't force everyone to downgrade again for no reason. See here.

Digital entitlement is Microsoft's term for their new online activation scheme that does not require a product key. As long as the computer has has Windows 10 activated before, a record is kept on Microsoft's servers that will automatically reactivate the same PC if Windows 10 is installed.

If you activated a free upgrade to Windows 10 or bought and activated Windows 10 from the Windows Store, you have a digital entitlement for your device. This means you can reinstall the same edition of Windows 10 that your device has a digital entitlement for without entering a product key. During reinstallation, if you’re asked to enter a product key, select Skip. Windows 10 will automatically activate online after the installation is complete.

It says at the bottom at "Activating Windows 10 after a hardware configuration change" that:

If you upgraded to Windows 10 using the free upgrade offer and then made significant hardware changes to your device, such as replacing the motherboard, Windows 10 might no longer be activated. For help on how to activate your device, contact customer support.

In the past, older versions of Windows that activated with license keys could also be somewhat tied to hardware. If you performed some parts changes/upgrades and tried entering the old key when reinstalling Windows, sometimes it would reject the key as it believed the computer it was being installed on was a new and different computer compared to the one it was originally activated on. In those cases, you would also have had to contact Microsoft support and get help manually activating Windows. In Windows 10, it is no different. All that's changed for digital entitlement is that you have no Windows 10 product key, just the old Windows 7/8/8.1 key (well hopefully you saved it somewhere).

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure this only applied to OEM keys. If you paid extra to get a retail key, it was possible to move it between hardware as often as you wished.

This creates a problem. If you have a retail Windows 7/8 key, converting it to a Windows 10 key will cause you to lose your ability to freely switch between hardware.

Edit: Although I suppose this doesn't apply (or, is very unlikely to apply) to therealminime.
 
They do it this way so people can't cheat the system and get Windows 10 activated on different PCs other than the one they have the old copy of Windows 7/8/8.1 on. They're not simply handing out free Windows 10 license keys and for new PCs without an OS. They want you you upgrade away from Windows 7/8/8.1, hence the media creation tool and the targeted upgrades for older Windows users.
But that is just what I did, granted I used a retail key and it may well work differently. Retail keys can be migrated to a different PC after all. Maybe OEM and SLP keys will force you to install legacy Windows first.
OK thanks for the clarifications. I will install Windows 10 via USB and if it activates, great, if not than I will be in touch with MS Support. And if all goes to shit, I still have the good old Windows 7 disk to fall back to. Thanks all.
Installing Windows 10 was so easy and quick. It was a bit of a shock for me how fast I got it up and running.
 

bomblord1

Banned
What program do people use to allow the use of a DS4 for windows? Are any of them ok are do you have any you would recommend?

The DS4 is plug n play and will work as a standard controller without the program. You get some bonuses though like using the touchpad as a mouse with it.
 
Hey guys, Im having a bit of a parnoid moment. I just ordered the MSI X99S SLI Plus motherboard, and I didnt take my RAM into consideration. Will DDR3 Ram work with this motherboard? It may be a stupid easy question to answer, but Im not the most tech savvy person
 

BorntoPlay

Member
Hey guys, Im having a bit of a parnoid moment. I just ordered the MSI X99S SLI Plus motherboard, and I didnt take my RAM into consideration. Will DDR3 Ram work with this motherboard? It may be a stupid easy question to answer, but Im not the most tech savvy person

You have to buy DDR4 Ram for that motherboard...
 
You have to buy DDR4 Ram for that motherboard...

Crap, all right, thanks. Im very interested in PC parts. I love looking at articles, videos, and benchmarks. But when it comes down to understanding how all of the individual parts go together it feels like Im stranded in canyon of knowledge. It can be overwhelming. But it looks like Im going to price some DDR4 RAM out!

Another quick question though, what if my case has less I/O ports than the motherboard? For example, what if the motherboard has 4 USB 3.0 ports, but my case only has 3 USB 3.0 cut outs. Will it still work?
 
Crap, all right, thanks. Im very interested in PC parts. I love looking at articles, videos, and benchmarks. But when it comes down to understanding how all of the individual parts go together it feels like Im stranded in canyon of knowledge. It can be overwhelming. But it looks like Im going to price some DDR4 RAM out!

Another quick question though, what if my case has less I/O ports than the motherboard? For example, what if the motherboard has 4 USB 3.0 ports, but my case only has 3 USB 3.0 cut outs. Will it still work?

The motherboard comes with its own I/O shield that matches up with its ports, no problem there.

Can you share all your specs? What CPU etc.?
 

hey_it's_that_dog

benevolent sexism
The DS4 is plug n play and will work as a standard controller without the program. You get some bonuses though like using the touchpad as a mouse with it.
A standard Xinput controller? Because that's the standard now, isn't it?

oh. Nice!

Maybe I'm crazy but I think the DS4 will work as a DirectInput controller without software, but if the game requires Xinput, which a lot of them do, then you will need Input Mapper or DS4 Windows or whatever that thing is called now.
 

Onemic

Member
Im reading a lot of articles saying that Polaris is gonna release this April....At least the mobile cards. Any chance of the regular cards being released in April as well?
 

bomblord1

Banned
A standard Xinput controller? Because that's the standard now, isn't it?



Maybe I'm crazy but I think the DS4 will work as a DirectInput controller without software, but if the game requires Xinput, which a lot of them do, then you will need Input Mapper or DS4 Windows or whatever that thing is called now.

Couldn't tell you but it works in every game with controller support that I have tried it in.
 

teokrazia

Member
Are you doing heavy overclocking? If not, simpler and smaller air coolers will be fine.

Well, ATM I have a 2500K and it serves me flawlessy at 4.4 GHz, with a Noctua NH-U12P SE2.

I've read that 5820K can be pushed @4.0/4.2 GHz and I guess I will need a similar cooler.
 
The motherboard comes with its own I/O shield that matches up with its ports, no problem there.

Can you share all your specs? What CPU etc.?

Yeah my current PC is as follows:

GTX 970

Intel core i5-4570 @ 3.20 GHz

8 GB of DDR3 RAM

I dont know the model of motherboard, but from my CPU I can tell it accepts Haswell chips.

So I have a really good PC, except for the i5. Im so tired of seeing recommended specs mention the i7, and thinking that a game isnt going to run properly. Similarly from what I can gather in our own performance threads my i5 isnt that great either. Other people have i5s but they also have the unlocked versions. So Im feeling a little stuck, I cant meet the recommended specs, and I cant run my CPU at a faster clock rate. I know that I could grab a 4770k and see a performance increase. But I dont know how much of an increase that would be, I also dont know if games from a year or two will work great on that CPU. The game plan was to get the MSI X99S SLI Plus in order to get a i7 5820k. I know future proofing is a fools errand, but that i7 has 6 physical cores. And agian, I have no idea how much of performance increase it will be. I know its very strong in general, and I know its stronger than what I have now.
 
Yeah my current PC is as follows:

GTX 970

Intel core i5-4570 @ 3.20 GHz

8 GB of DDR3 RAM

I dont know the model of motherboard, but from my CPU I can tell it accepts Haswell chips.

So I have a really good PC, except for the i5. Im so tired of seeing recommended specs mention the i7, and thinking that a game isnt going to run properly. Similarly from what I can gather in our own performance threads my i5 isnt that great either. Other people have i5s but they also have the unlocked versions. So Im feeling a little stuck, I cant meet the recommended specs, and I cant run my CPU at a faster clock rate. I know that I could grab a 4770k and see a performance increase. But I dont know how much of an increase that would be, I also dont know if games from a year or two will work great on that CPU. The game plan was to get the MSI X99S SLI Plus in order to get a i7 5820k. I know future proofing is a fools errand, but that i7 has 6 physical cores. And agian, I have no idea how much of performance increase it will be. I know its very strong in general, and I know its stronger than what I have now.

To be honest your current CPU is very capable. You'll see a much bigger improvement by getting a new video card rather than a new CPU.
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
I'm thinking of finally getting the ROG Swift PG279Q, but have any of you ever used the Square Trade stuff?

Is it worth it?
 
To be honest your current CPU is very capable. You'll see a much bigger improvement by getting a new video card rather than a new CPU.

Hmm really? Well, Im happy with the 970. I guess I'll just keep saving money until I actually see a decrease in performance in a game then. I tend to get ahead of myself with upgrading my PC, and I tend to think my parts arent as capable as they really are. But another gaffer gave me some sound advice. He/she basically said dont upgrade until you experience a game not working properly. I think thats sounds advice that is easily forgotten by me.
 

Terra

Member
So please, clear up this for me:

I have a windows 7 msdnaa/student-release on a DVD that I have used for years with my computer.

I upgraded my computer with new mo-bo & processor. Installed win 7 from my DVD to that one, and upgraded to windows 10.

I made an install media and it's now labeled as a "digital entitlement" on this new computer. When I make a clean install of windows 10 on my new computer, I just click 'I don't have a serial' and it installs/activates just fine.

What happens now? If I upgrade in the future, I must buy a new copy of windows, right?
 
Howdy all! So a few days ago a couple of you came together and I ended up with this list for a roughly-under- $2k Gaming PC:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/46H3K8

But I recently noticed it only has an SSD- no harddrive! I don't know much about that kind of thing, but 500GB isn't that much room. I feel like I need a harddrive. So smart people, I have 3 questions:

1. Can anyone shoot a good harddrive over to me that would fit in this build?
2. What do folks think about this case? Is this case future-proof?
3. Am I going to have to worry about overheating with this build? (I really just want one I can put together and not worry about)

Bonus stupid person 4th question: Uh..what do I actually need to put this together? Glue? A screwdriver?

Thank you for taking pity on my ignorant soul!
 
Hdmi will carry audio and video but dvi only does video. Dvi technically can carry audio but the TV may not be able to use it. The data itself is the same it just depends how the TV uses it.
 
A standard Xinput controller? Because that's the standard now, isn't it?



Maybe I'm crazy but I think the DS4 will work as a DirectInput controller without software, but if the game requires Xinput, which a lot of them do, then you will need Input Mapper or DS4 Windows or whatever that thing is called now.

Not crazy - it is only Direct Input and there are a number of games which only support Xinput, requiring you to use 3rd party software to emulate an xinput device.
 
So I purchased a 980ti 6g a couple months back and have been using a vg248qe and decided to join the lottery on a pg279q and of course my display had some dead pixels, back light bleed, though it wasn't as bad as some monitors I've seen, no dust though. So after most people who drop $800+ on a monitor seeing issues like this caused me to send it back to newegg. Should I keep trying the lottery or look for a x271hu in a month or so?

I really want to get a gsync monitor because what I've used of them they are awe some and since I have a 980ti I have been wanting to make the jump to 1440p. These QC issues are really a pain. I'd prefer to stick with an IPS over a TN.
 
i currently have a 780ti classified from a couple years back. u guys think i would be better off getting a second one for sli or waiting and seeing what pascal has to offer?
 

MBison

Member
My comp has a AMD 7970 3 gig in it. Bought several years ago. Is there an estimation on the speed increase I'd see with a 980ti? I know there are more factors just curious if there was an estimation.
 

RGM79

Member
So please, clear up this for me:

I have a windows 7 msdnaa/student-release on a DVD that I have used for years with my computer.

I upgraded my computer with new mo-bo & processor. Installed win 7 from my DVD to that one, and upgraded to windows 10.

I made an install media and it's now labeled as a "digital entitlement" on this new computer. When I make a clean install of windows 10 on my new computer, I just click 'I don't have a serial' and it installs/activates just fine.

What happens now? If I upgrade in the future, I must buy a new copy of windows, right?

You'll need to know your Windows 7 key and contact Microsoft support. See if you can get help reactivating the PC. You may not need to buy another copy of Windows.

Well, ATM I have a 2500K and it serves me flawlessy at 4.4 GHz, with a Noctua NH-U12P SE2.

I've read that 5820K can be pushed @4.0/4.2 GHz and I guess I will need a similar cooler.

The 5820K will produce a bit more heat than an i5 processor. Still, the NH-U12P isn't bad, if you have the mounting parts for it you can reuse that with your new processor and motherboard, and see how that goes at first.

i currently have a 780ti classified from a couple years back. u guys think i would be better off getting a second one for sli or waiting and seeing what pascal has to offer?

What games are you playing and at what settings and resolution? It should still be fairly capable for 1080p gaming. Also, what are the rest of your system specs? Can you wait for whenever Pascal launches?

The GTX 780 Ti is discontinued, your best bet of getting another one would be to look for a used one. Keep in mind that SLI isn't perfect as not all games support it, some need proper patches and drivers to make it work well, and performance scaling isn't the same with all games that do work with SLI. You'll also need a capable power supply. Given those things, we usually tend to recommend a single graphics card over two graphics cards whenever possible.

My comp has a AMD 7970 3 gig in it. Bought several years ago. Is there an estimation on the speed increase I'd see with a 980ti? I know there are more factors just curious if there was an estimation.
Here's a comparison between the two. The processor you have can also play into the performance difference as well, depending on what game and what processor.
 

Branson

Member
Hope you guys can help me with this issue but I'm not sure what to do anymore. It does this on multiple USB ports so I've tried that.

If I play a game with my Xbox One controller wirelessly and quit, and then turn off the controller, my mouse lags really bad and beeps and wont let me click anything. The only thing it will do is just beep over and over again through the speakers and I have to reset to be able to use the mouse again. I can use the keyboard to control alt delete and do things that way.

This is insanely frustrating. Its only after playing a game and then turning off the controller.

Annoying video but this is exactly how it sounds when it freezes the mouse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddun9389HVU&ab_channel=remembertomorrow0

Windows 10
G502 mouse
Logitech Keyboard
Wireless Xbox One controller
both plugged into USB 3.0 and tried with 2.0 also.
 

Maz

Member
Just ordered xtreme gaming windforce 980 ti, I'm upgrading from a 970. I have a few questions for you guys:

1- Do I need to uninstall gpu drivers before or after physically replacing the gpus

2- Do i need to use the ln2 mode thing on the side of the card? It needs another 6pin power supply, will the card run normally without it.

3- Never really overclocked anything before, should I stick with gigabyte software or use another.

I have i7-4790k (not overclocked), I have 1080p 144hz screen and a suhd 60" tv that I game on. (M/Kb games on screen, gamepad on tv)

Edit-
I mainly got the new gpu to run games on htc vive and oculus rift with the best possible settings I can right now.
 

bumclot

Member
1- Do I need to uninstall gpu drivers before or after physically replacing the gpus

I uninstalled my drivers first when going from a 660 Ti to 980, but I don't think that's even necessary anymore if you're going Nvidia-Nvidia or AMD-AMD.
 
Well I successfully upgraded my PC with a new motherboard (MSI Gaming Z170A GAMING M5), a new CPU (i7-6700k), and new RAM (CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB). It was a bit of a process but it all went very well, everything booted and was happy on the first try. The only thing that doesn't seem to work is Ethernet going into the Killer e2400 network port on the motherboard but that's fine, I'm picking up a wireless adapter today and installing that.

Then I took all my old parts and have thrown hem into a new case for my mom to use and it also booted first try. Feels good man.

I was a little stressed going in since I'd never done what is basically a full system build before and I ended up doing basically two full builds. I'm so pleased it was such smooth sailing.
 

e90Mark

Member
Well I successfully upgraded my PC with a new motherboard (MSI Gaming Z170A GAMING M5), a new CPU (i7-6700k), and new RAM (CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB). It was a bit of a process but it all went very well, everything booted and was happy on the first try. The only thing that doesn't seem to work is Ethernet going into the Killer e2400 network port on the motherboard but that's fine, I'm picking up a wireless adapter today and installing that.

Then I took all my old parts and have thrown hem into a new case for my mom to use and it also booted first try. Feels good man.

I was a little stressed going in since I'd never done what is basically a full system build before and I ended up doing basically two full builds. I'm so pleased it was such smooth sailing.

Windows 10 doesn't/can't install a generic driver for that unfortunately. Haven't noticed any other issue with the Killer NIC's besides that. You'll need to grab the driver off the internet.
 
You misunderstand, going through the upgrade process converts the old Windows 7/8/8.1 license into a Windows 10 license. The offer is a time window to allow users to convert their licenses to Windows 10, not a trial period to use Windows 10. It will not matter once the offer is over because the user will already have a Windows 10 license. Remember, Microsoft wants everyone to move away from Windows 7/8/8.1, they won't force everyone to downgrade again for no reason. See here.

Digital entitlement is Microsoft's term for their new online activation scheme that does not require a product key. As long as the computer has has Windows 10 activated before, a record is kept on Microsoft's servers that will automatically reactivate the same PC if Windows 10 is installed.

If you activated a free upgrade to Windows 10 or bought and activated Windows 10 from the Windows Store, you have a digital entitlement for your device. This means you can reinstall the same edition of Windows 10 that your device has a digital entitlement for without entering a product key. During reinstallation, if you’re asked to enter a product key, select Skip. Windows 10 will automatically activate online after the installation is complete.

It says at the bottom at "Activating Windows 10 after a hardware configuration change" that:

If you upgraded to Windows 10 using the free upgrade offer and then made significant hardware changes to your device, such as replacing the motherboard, Windows 10 might no longer be activated. For help on how to activate your device, contact customer support.

In the past, older versions of Windows that activated with license keys could also be somewhat tied to hardware. If you performed some parts changes/upgrades and tried entering the old key when reinstalling Windows, sometimes it would reject the key as it believed the computer it was being installed on was a new and different computer compared to the one it was originally activated on. In those cases, you would also have had to contact Microsoft support and get help manually activating Windows. In Windows 10, it is no different. All that's changed for digital entitlement is that you have no Windows 10 product key, just the old Windows 7/8/8.1 key (well hopefully you saved it somewhere).



They do it this way so people can't cheat the system and get Windows 10 activated on different PCs other than the one they have the old copy of Windows 7/8/8.1 on. They're not simply handing out free Windows 10 license keys and for new PCs without an OS. They want you you upgrade away from Windows 7/8/8.1, hence the media creation tool and the targeted upgrades for older Windows users.



Are you doing heavy overclocking? If not, simpler and smaller air coolers will be fine.

Sorry for the late reply.
And thank you for giving more insight how the whole thing works.
I have my Windows 8.1 key at hand so that shouldn't be the problem.
So I have to call MS so they can transfer the digital entitlement to my new PC?
I've bought a Systembuilder / OEM Windows 8.1.
 
I am failing miserably at getting a panel setup and being satisfied. First world problems to the max.

I am coming from a surround setup of 3 Dell 2240M 21.5" 1080p 60hz monitors.

I rarely would run stuff in surround. I have 2x 670sli but it just doesn't do it for modern games at that resolution, so I rarely used the feature.

My thoughts were to setup my PS4 on my monitor, and replace my setup with something that had better input lag, which was my only real complaint besides the power needed to drive surround (and the fact it was a little small if using just 1 monitor).

What I have learned from my previous setup:

1) 60hz doesn't bother me.
2) I have to have IPS (or similar) color quality and viewing angles. TN is out.
3) I need thin bezels. (Dell did this really well)

I have taken down the 3 Dell monitors for 1 Asus MX279h (fantastic input lag, <10ms) which is a 27" 1080p 60hz AH-IPS panel. My thoughts are if I am going to console game, I am going to want 1080p native. Turns out I was right and the PS4 looks beautiful on this thing! The pixel density doesn't bother me too much (if at all).

So what's wrong?!

I still find myself looking into things like ultrawide and 4k while I am still in my return window. I am also considering a 2nd to run consoles only next to my PC.

Basically for someone with ~$400-500 budget, whats the best of the best setup for me?

Is 2x monitors really worthwhile if the 2nd is console only? Can't really take advantage PC gaming wise. Thats when I start debating an ultrawide, but then the consoles get black bars. Then I start thinking 4k for some extra wow factor, but then the GPU setup likely will need an overhaul.

What do I do? Will I come down from my 3 monitor high even if this 1 monitor solution makes more sense?
 

teokrazia

Member
The 5820K will produce a bit more heat than an i5 processor. Still, the NH-U12P isn't bad, if you have the mounting parts for it you can reuse that with your new processor and motherboard, and see how that goes at first.

Nice advice, thanks.
[meanwhile I'm also considering, for the first time in my PC life, liquid cooling, perhaps a Liquid Freezer 240 or Nepton 240M... :p]
 

Windam

Scaley member
Just got an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL while playing Blade and Soul. Running an i5 6600K at 4.3ghz at 1.22v with a 212 EVO on an MSI Z170A PC Mate. I've been OCed for about a week or so now and have played BnS and Black Desert, Chivalry, Verdun, and Insurgency for hours with no problem up until now. Should I lower my OC?
 
Just got an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL while playing Blade and Soul. Running an i5 6600K at 4.3ghz at 1.22v with a 212 EVO on an MSI Z170A PC Mate. I've been OCed for about a week or so now and have played BnS and Black Desert, Chivalry, Verdun, and Insurgency for hours with no problem up until now. Should I lower my OC?

I know that error message, revoke your OC and try again. Could be also the RAM.

MS is saying this for this error:

Explanation:
This Stop message indicates that a kernel-mode process or driver attempted to access a memory address to which it did not have permission to access. The most common cause of this error is an incorrect or corrupted pointer that references an incorrect location in memory. A pointer is a variable used by a program to refer to a block of memory. If the variable has an incorrect value in it, the program tries to access memory that it should not. When this occurs in a user-mode application, it generates an access violation. When it occurs in kernel mode, it generates a STOP 0x0000000A message. If you encounter this error while upgrading to a newer version of Windows, it might be caused by a device driver, a system service, a virus scanner, or a backup tool that is incompatible with the new version.
 

Mman235

Member
Just got an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL while playing Blade and Soul. Running an i5 6600K at 4.3ghz at 1.22v with a 212 EVO on an MSI Z170A PC Mate. I've been OCed for about a week or so now and have played BnS and Black Desert, Chivalry, Verdun, and Insurgency for hours with no problem up until now. Should I lower my OC?

If your temps are fine you could probably up the voltage a bit, because it seems to be on the low side anyway by the standards of most 6600k overclocks I've seen.
 

Windam

Scaley member
Could be also the RAM.

I hope not. Only have this one stick of 8gb HyperX Fury. D:

If your temps are fine you could probably up the voltage a bit, because it seems to be on the low side anyway by the standards of most 6600k overclocks I've seen.

Really? Another GAFfer a few pages back said he managed to get his to about 1.18v with the same hardware setup. I couldn't get it down to 1.2v without it crashing.
 

e90Mark

Member
Really? Another GAFfer a few pages back said he managed to get his to about 1.18v with the same hardware setup. I couldn't get it down to 1.2v without it crashing.

Definitely on the low end. Seems relatively stable for the most part, maybe 1.25 would be good.
 

Windam

Scaley member
To test your RAM you could use this tool:

http://www.passmark.com/products/bit.htm

You can test various things, good for detecting failures with hardware.

Thanks! How many cycles or how long should I let it run for?

Definitely on the low end. Seems relatively stable for the most part, maybe 1.25 would be good.

Yeah, that's what I had it at before trying his suggestion. Worked well up until this instance. Guess I'll go back there if my memory is fine.
 
Thanks! How many cycles or how long should I let it run for?



Yeah, that's what I had it at before trying his suggestion. Worked well up until this instance. Guess I'll go back there if my memory is fine.

2 or 3 cycles should be enough to see if the RAM is defective, and you're welcome :)
 
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