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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Not entirely sure what cooler you have, but if it supports socket LGA 2011-V3, you can reuse it for this build and save about $100~. If you want to spend a little more, you can go for a 980 Ti GPU for another $200~ and get the best card on the market currently.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($369.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($112.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI X99A SLI PLUS ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($203.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($102.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 390X 8GB Video Card ($413.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1398.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-08 22:46 EDT-0400

I'd just need to find a place in Redwood City that puts together PCs.
 

LordAlu

Member
This is my bro's PC!

Before

Lu0RGi0.jpg


UhELMJA.jpg


After

au3nR9H.jpg


E1ZOzvN.jpg
That's a system desperately in need of some cable ties!
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
I'm getting slightly worried about reported framerate issues in some VR games when used with a 3570k - eg job simulator. Although the 3570k even at stock should have about the same performance as the recommended 4590. There is also the small issue of my PC also being my plex server so I'd like to allow for a little extra overhead.

My options seem to be
1) keep my motherboard and ram and swap in an i7-3770k, and hope the hyperthreading helps keep my framerates up in VR and also helps with plex streaming while gaming.
2) replace with a skylake setup - I'd probably go i7-6700k but that would mean a significant increase in cost

(1) is maybe £150 for a used 3770k. (2) is probably £500 and a lot more effort (would I need a new reinstall of windows?)


also I'm currently using a H60 cooler and the pump/fan noise is annoying when idling - the rest of the computer is pretty quiet (passive PSU and GPU when not stressed). Would an air cooler be a better option for a quiet PC that still has overclock potential? Using a bitfenix prodigy with a 200mm front fan and I think a 120mm rear as exhaust which is attached to the H60 radiator. GPU is MSI 970 gaming which pulls air in from the side and seems to just dump it into the case. Have a bluray drive fitted so limited space for a top fan but I might be able to fit one in there.
 

cHinzo

Member
So I tried cloning my HDD to my new ssd. The ssd is 480 gb and I cleared enough space in the HDD so that it's about 390gb.

Ran acronis that came with the PNY ssd, it compkeyed the clone but the ssd won't boot into windows. I made sure it was selected as the boot drive and also tried without the HDD connected. No dice.

I formatted the ssd and tried cloning with macrium reflect, but it says there is not enough free space on the destination drive, even though it's clearly showing there is.

Time to do a fresh windows install on the ssd? Can I created a boot usb in windows 10? Any other ideas on why the clone won't work?

Have you done this with your HDD before cloning?

1. Defragment the HDD. Type in "disk defragmenter" in the search box, and then you can find the Defragment utility shown at the top of the search results.

2. Disable page files. Right click on This Computer, go to Properties--> Advanced-->Performance-->Advanced-->Change, and click on the change button. Uncheck the option “Automatically manage paging file size for all drives”, and select the option No Paging File.

3. Disable Hibernation mode. The simplest way should be to use prompt command. Run the command “powercfg /hibernate off” in the Command Prompt. Note that the Hibernation mode is disabled by default on Windows 8/8.1 or Windows 10.

4. Disable system restore point files. Right click on This Computer, and go to Properties--> System Protection, and then turn off Restore Point Protection for the C drive.

5. Reboot your PC and shrink or extend C partition a bit. Then connect the SSD to start cloning.

I used Acronis before and it worked fine for me, but when I needed to clone my SSD a second time I had a laptop without an optical disc drive and used Aomei Backupper Standard instead. You might wanna try that one out before doing a fresh install. No need for an optical disc drive, can just connect through USB, it's easy and you can do it while being on Windows.
 

draliko

Member
Ok finally moving in the news house in about a month, so it's time to upgrade the game machine to something decent (also because playing bloodborne reminded me how much i hate fps issues :D). Now i've got:
- i5 2500k stock freq
- Noctua Cooler NH14 ibelieve
- 8gb ram
- amd 6850
- crappy monitor & case
- 500gb caviar black hd
- psu gone some weeks ago

I know polaris/pascal will be presented soon, so it's better to wait for a price drop on current hardware or to buy new hardware, but for the rest of the parts i was thinking to keep the i5 2500k and maybe OC it a bit, keep the ram (worth upgrading to 16gb?), change the psu to a 600 modular one (corsair? seasonic?), buy a nice case like fractal ones, a 250gb ssd, and a decent monitor. As i said i'll wait computex for choosing the gpu, but i was thinking to go with team red, i would like to buy a freesync monitor (gsync one cost way too much here in italy) 27" wide or 29" ultrawide.

DO you have reccomandation on the monitor? Do you have suggestion before i spend way too much money for nothing? :D Budget about 1000€ for all the upgrades.
Thanks all!
 

Unstable

Member
Any recommendations for a Z170 Mini-ITX motherboard? WiFi isn't super important to me, I'm mainly looking for reliability.

Anyone have a suggestion?
 

LilJoka

Member
Cross post, but if anyone is looking at a HTPC im looking to sell mine

Its using a Wesena like ITX case

But a knock off i got from ebay a few years back, cant remember the name. Its the exact same as in the photo but the DVD drive button is on the left and it has a small LCD Screen (which i dont use, but included). I have carefully removed the Tendraw label too, no marks left behind.
Somewhere i have a box with the DVD tray etc as this is not in the case atm.

Specs
Intel DH61AG ITX
i5 3470T (off top of my head but in this class)
2x4GB RAM again i think its 1333Mhz, but will check if its important for you.
Intel 160GB SSD X25 model
I have built my own IR module that is attached to the CIR header on the board and then hot glued into place -> works awesome from any angle and distance!
Uses an Akasa CPU fan, its slightly larger than the stock coolers we get on Intel coolers today. Its been silenced with a resister in line.
And also it incorporates a Xbox 360 fan (yes i know, BAD!) but dont fret, its been silenced. The only time you hear it is on spin up since the board spins up the fans to 100% on startup for a second. Its setup to exhaust.
Windows 7 installed and ready to go - WIn 10 upgrade is available for it.
Power brick included.

Case has no marks or scratches, its all in like-new condition.

You can turn on and off the machine (yes from shutdown S5 state) with the on/off button on any Windows Media Centre type remote (RC6 protocol). I use my logitech Harmony, the 360 media remote works, and so do all the other microsoft RC6 media remotes).

Its all built for silence, so you wont hear a peep when you are even a foot away.

Im in the UK, and looking for about £300 (negotiable of course).

If anyone is actually interested i can get photos.

Any recommendations for a Z170 Mini-ITX motherboard? WiFi isn't super important to me, I'm mainly looking for reliability.

Anyone have a suggestion?

Asus Z170 Pro Gaming ITX is awesome imo. Have one setup an been solid. One of the best overclocking ITX Z170 boards too.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Cross post, but if anyone is looking at a HTPC im looking to sell mine

ooh, if I had the spare money that'd be tempting just to use as a plex server to take the stress off my main PC. Probably can't justify the cost at the moment though, unless you want to swap for some lego :p
 
I have a problem with my new asus z170-pro. It won't boot into my OS (Windows 10) unless I select it from the boot menu - otherwise it's just a blank screen. When I manually select it, Win 10 loads just fine. It's also slow to load the BIOS after hitting DEL at the boot menu. Any help? It's driving me nuts. I know my boot load sequence is fine, too.

Edit: for the record it hasn't always behaved like this.

Edit2: it will load bios automatically whether or not I hit the del key

Edit3: disabling the DirectKey setting in BIOS resolved this problem though I have no idea why since I don't have anything hooked up to those pins on my MOBO
 
What should I be changing to increase the clock. I thought changing CPU ratio to 38 would change the clock rate to 3.8Ghz, but when I run Prime95 and open task manager it maxes at 3.6Ghz.

i5-3570K
CPU ration: 38
IA CORE Current: 896
Internal PLL OVervoltage: Disabled
Power Limit 1: 616
Power Limit 2: 770

Here is an image too
7dwxt6G.jpg
 
Bought another GA-Z77n Wifi Mini ITX on Ebay after I fucked up the other one...

Except I noticed that it's only seeing half my RAM... is there anyway to troubleshoot this? Its only seeing 8GB instead of 16GB
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Bought another GA-Z77n Wifi Mini ITX on Ebay after I fucked up the other one...

Except I noticed that it's only seeing half my RAM... is there anyway to troubleshoot this? Its only seeing 8GB instead of 16GB

I didn't do anything and mine seems to be showing up - at least in CPU-Z. Just pulled out the 2x4GB sticks and put in 2x8GB.
 

rrs

Member
What should I be changing to increase the clock. I thought changing CPU ratio to 38 would change the clock rate to 3.8Ghz, but when I run Prime95 and open task manager it maxes at 3.6Ghz.

i5-3570K
CPU ration: 38
IA CORE Current: 896
Internal PLL OVervoltage: Disabled
Power Limit 1: 616
Power Limit 2: 770

Here is an image too
7dwxt6G.jpg
check with cpuz, hwmonitor, or another tool like it. also, what motherboard are you using?
 

LilJoka

Member
What should I be changing to increase the clock. I thought changing CPU ratio to 38 would change the clock rate to 3.8Ghz, but when I run Prime95 and open task manager it maxes at 3.6Ghz.

i5-3570K
CPU ration: 38
IA CORE Current: 896
Internal PLL OVervoltage: Disabled
Power Limit 1: 616
Power Limit 2: 770

Here is an image too
7dwxt6G.jpg

What are you using to measure the CPU speed in Windows? Try CPUz.
 
What should I be changing to increase the clock. I thought changing CPU ratio to 38 would change the clock rate to 3.8Ghz, but when I run Prime95 and open task manager it maxes at 3.6Ghz.

i5-3570K
CPU ration: 38
IA CORE Current: 896
Internal PLL OVervoltage: Disabled
Power Limit 1: 616
Power Limit 2: 770

Here is an image too
7dwxt6G.jpg

Try turning off all c states. I had this problem. I believe that was the solution. I couldn't go over 4 ghz for some reason when I tried overclocking.
 
its 1600MHz ram, right? Think the motherboard has a 1600MHz max for ram

Yeah its definitely one of the sticks.


I'm having another problem. I have a 6TB RED Drive and when it's plugged in with my SSD, the PC won't boot past the Motherboard Startup screen. When I try plugging it in when Windows is up... it doesn't show up in Disk Management.
 
What's my best bet for finding a cheap but new GFX card in the UK? I'm eyeing up 970's on eBay and prices are in the £220 - £250 range for most. I wanna try and snag a deal at £200 but I might be being too optimistic.

I'm selling my 970 for £200 delivered. I have someone interested, but he can't pay until Tuesday. If he pulls out I will let you know.
 
Just got the Alienware Alpha up and running (someone else put money into this form factor because its unparalleled amazingness).

The bundled 360 controller is working just fine.

Is the steam controller something worthwhile for games like The Sims 4 for instance? I see myself doing just fine with the 360 pad combined with FPS, racing, and shmups. I do have a curiosity on other game genres usefulness when combined with that steam controller that is bundled with the Steam Machine version.

Any other opinions on comfy couch gaming peripherals?
 
Hi, I bought one of these HP deal is back (i7-6700, GTX 980Ti, 16GB, 2TB, 500W) hoping to get an SSD for Windows, a storage drive for my games, change the ram from the standard 16GB to 32GB and swap into a case with more breathing room. I've had good experiences in the past with NewEgg so parts from there would be ideal if possible please. I apologize if this seems like me being lazy about picking parts, but I just really want to ensure compatibility and I know you guys are far more capable than I am.


  • The SSD just has to be enough for Windows so 250gb should be fine.
  • The storage drive would be between 3TB-4TB
  • I'd like to swap to a case with better ventilation/more breathing room but I'm not sure what form factor this desktop is, or how hard it is to swap if any part of the case is proprietary.
  • I just want to make sure the RAM is compatible
On a side note, I plan on doing a fresh install of Windows 10 on the new SSD. What would be the best way to go about doing this? I'd like to use the license that comes with the desktop but not the harddrive it comes installed on.

Also just to clarify the specifics of my build, I went with:

HP ENVY 750se Desktop PC
Product number: N3G97AV#ABA

2USB2.0, 2USB3.0
•Integrated Sound
•16GB DDR4-2133 DIMM (2x8GB) RAM
•2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6G Hard Drive
•SuperMulti DVD Burner
•500W Power supply
•Windows 10 Home 64-bit OS
•HP Wireless 802.11 b/g/n 1x1 with Bluetooth M.2 NIC (Sanji)
•6th Generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K quad-core processor [4.0GHz, 8MB Shared Cache]
•6GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 980Ti [DL DVI-I, HDMI, DP, DP, DP]
 
If you are just putting windows onto the ssd a 128gb one would be enough if you're looking to save a few pounds, but a 250gb one would allow you to install a couple of games at a time (which you'll want to do with the ones you are playing the most at any given time) you can use Steam tool to move them between drives.

If you have your old windows 7 or 8 on a disk with a serial number, you can use a windows thing (can't remember what it's called) to make a bootable flash drive of windows 10, then you can enter that old serial number when it asks you. It should work, I did it myself the other day with my old windows 7 key.

Any ATX compatible case should be fine (although you will have to make sure there's room for the 980,they are big cards but any gaming case should have the horizontal room) just put the standoffs into the right place for the motherboard and it shouldn't be too hard to move it across, just be careful and ground yourself first.
 

Dubz

Member
I got a new PC and I have a question.

My new PC comes with a i7 6700 @ 3.4 ghz, and my old PC has an i7 4770K. Should I swap out the CPU's and over clock my 4770k, or stick with the 6700?
 
Here's a real dumb question: what are USB ports attached to? The PSU? lol

They are plugged into the motherboard.

I got a new PC and I have a question.

My new PC comes with a i7 6700 @ 3.4 ghz, and my old PC has an i7 4770K. Should I swap out the CPU's and over clock my 4770k, or stick with the 6700?


One is Haswell and the other is Skylake. I'm pretty sure they use a different socket (someone far more knowledgeable will confirm) so you can't just swap them over.
 
On a side note, I plan on doing a fresh install of Windows 10 on the new SSD. What would be the best way to go about doing this? I'd like to use the license that comes with the desktop but not the harddrive it comes installed on.

The route I always go is make sure your Windows is genuine. Check the info under My Computer.

Then download the free Windows 10 thing from the msn.com homepage (I hate waiting for the pop-up if it isn't there). From there I do an upgrade to 10 and make sure the upgrade is activated and genuine. If it is activated you are now set!

Microsoft is actually pretty cool, because then your PC is now registered without he need for a key anymore. You can again use the free tool to make a bootable USB stick, do a fresh/clean install and when it asks for a key don't even bother. When you boot into Windows 10 after the install it knows your computer is genuine.

The only trouble you should have is if you switch out your motherboard. CPU, GPU, RAM, and hard drive changes should not affect genuine status.

That means I would upgrade Windows 7/8/whatever to 10 on the spinner (after making sure it was genuine), create the bootable USB drive on the spinner, make sure Windows 10 is genuine, replace the spinner with the SSD, fresh install, and be done.
 

e90Mark

Member
I got a new PC and I have a question.

My new PC comes with a i7 6700 @ 3.4 ghz, and my old PC has an i7 4770K. Should I swap out the CPU's and over clock my 4770k, or stick with the 6700?

They are plugged into the motherboard.




One is Haswell and the other is Skylake. I'm pretty sure they use a different socket (someone far more knowledgeable will confirm) so you can't just swap them over.

True, different sockets. Not swappable.
 

kennah

Member
I got a new PC and I have a question.

My new PC comes with a i7 6700 @ 3.4 ghz, and my old PC has an i7 4770K. Should I swap out the CPU's and over clock my 4770k, or stick with the 6700?

Your old PC was faster than your new PC...
 
check with cpuz, hwmonitor, or another tool like it. also, what motherboard are you using?
Here is Mobo
oFU1uSY.jpg

What are you using to measure the CPU speed in Windows? Try CPUz.
Here is the CPU-Z clocks
Rta9c6L.jpg

Try turning off all c states. I had this problem. I believe that was the solution. I couldn't go over 4 ghz for some reason when I tried overclocking.

If I can find them I'll turn them off.
 

mintyice

Junior Member
So my Acer XB271HU arrived broken and poorly shipped. I got it from Acer's eBay store and it barely had any packing material in the box. I bet part of the stand hit the screen in transit. The exterior glass wasn't broken, but it was super messed up once you turned it on.

9Nta6Nw.jpg
 
So my Acer XB271HU arrived broken and poorly shipped. I got it from Acer's eBay store and it barely had any packing material in the box. I bet part of the stand hit the screen in transit. The exterior glass wasn't broken, but it was super messed up once you turned it on.

http://i.imgur.com/9Nta6Nw.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]

Shit, what a mess. I just got the XB281HK, would have been gutted if it arrived like that.

Have you got in touch with the seller, what have they said?
 

CaLe

Member
I currently have an I5 2500K. I'm a programmer, so I do a lot of compiling. I'm also thinking of running a few VMs. As such, I'm looking for a CPU with extra cores and threads.

I found the following i7-3960X for about 500$ CAD:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00603QXPW/

I was wondering if :

- Get the i7-3960X and rock it for a few more years.
- Upgrade to Skylake (ex: i7 6700K) and as such also upgrade my motherboard and RAM.
- Keep the i5 2600K and wait for the next generation

Budget: About 800$

Current rig:

I5 2500K
24GB RAM DDR3 1600
GTX 908 TI
800W Power Supply
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO

Thanks
 
I currently have an I5 2500K. I'm a programmer, so I do a lot of compiling. I'm also thinking of running a few VMs. As such, I'm looking for a CPU with extra cores and threads.

I found the following i7-3960X for about 500$ CAD:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00603QXPW/

I was wondering if :

- Get the i7-3960X and rock it for a few more years.
- Upgrade to Skylake (ex: i7 6700K) and as such also upgrade my motherboard and RAM.
- Keep the i5 2600K and wait for the next generation

Budget: About 800$

Current rig:

I5 2500K
24GB RAM DDR3 1600
GTX 908 TI
800W Power Supply
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO

Thanks

I recently went from an i5 2400 with 8GBs of 1333 DDR3. I went with a 6600K, MB, 16GB DDR4 3000. If I was in your position though I would get the 3960.

Edit. $500 for the CPU? I don't know what I would do. I paid like $500 for everything.
 

RGM79

Member
I currently have an I5 2500K. I'm a programmer, so I do a lot of compiling. I'm also thinking of running a few VMs. As such, I'm looking for a CPU with extra cores and threads.

I found the following i7-3960X for about 500$ CAD:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00603QXPW/

I was wondering if :

- Get the i7-3960X and rock it for a few more years.
- Upgrade to Skylake (ex: i7 6700K) and as such also upgrade my motherboard and RAM.
- Keep the i5 2600K and wait for the next generation

Budget: About 800$

Current rig:

I5 2500K
24GB RAM DDR3 1600
GTX 908 TI
800W Power Supply
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO

Thanks

A price of $500 is too much to pay for a discontinued processor that you won't be able to get brand new motherboards for. Don't bother with that, either upgrade to Skylake or wait.
 

CaLe

Member
I recently went from an i5 2400 with 8GBs of 1333 DDR3. I went with a 6600K, MB, 16GB DDR4 3000. If I was in your position though I would get the 3960.

Edit. $500 for the CPU? I don't know what I would do. I paid like $500 for everything.

Did you feel the update was substantial ? Which motherboard and RAM have you chosen ?

I'll follow the advice you guys have given me and either upgrade to skylake if it fits in my budget, or wait.
 
I currently have an I5 2500K. I'm a programmer, so I do a lot of compiling. I'm also thinking of running a few VMs. As such, I'm looking for a CPU with extra cores and threads.

I found the following i7-3960X for about 500$ CAD:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00603QXPW/

I was wondering if :

- Get the i7-3960X and rock it for a few more years.
- Upgrade to Skylake (ex: i7 6700K) and as such also upgrade my motherboard and RAM.
- Keep the i5 2600K and wait for the next generation

Budget: About 800$

Current rig:

I5 2500K
24GB RAM DDR3 1600
GTX 908 TI
800W Power Supply
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO

Thanks

I was in the same boat and I went with a 5820K. In my opinion, it's absolutely fantastic, and the extra 2 cores can really help with encoding (or compiling, depending on the compiler). It's also pretty easy to overclock (coming from someone who's never done it before). I've currently got my 5820K running at 4.0GHz, air-cooled, and it generally sits around 35-40C (or ~60C under extremely heavy load).

If you're looking for something with more cores, I'd highly recommend it. As a bonus, Broadwell-E should also be compatible with the X99 chipset and 2011-3 socket, so there's room to upgrade down the line without a motherboard refresh.
 

kennah

Member
I currently have an I5 2500K. I'm a programmer, so I do a lot of compiling. I'm also thinking of running a few VMs. As such, I'm looking for a CPU with extra cores and threads.

I found the following i7-3960X for about 500$ CAD:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00603QXPW/

I was wondering if :

- Get the i7-3960X and rock it for a few more years.
- Upgrade to Skylake (ex: i7 6700K) and as such also upgrade my motherboard and RAM.
- Keep the i5 2600K and wait for the next generation

Budget: About 800$

Current rig:

I5 2500K
24GB RAM DDR3 1600
GTX 908 TI
800W Power Supply
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO

Thanks
Just making sure you're aware, that processor wouldn't work on your current motherboard and they don't come with a cooler. So you would need to track down an X79 motherboard and a socket 2011 compatible cooler. Memory express has a bunch of x79 boards that are open box or refurbished in their clearance store, if you happen to be in one of those cities.

But honestly you're probably better off just getting a 5820k and ddr4 if you're going to be spending that much anyway.
 

CaLe

Member
I was in the same boat and I went with a 5820K. In my opinion, it's absolutely fantastic, and the extra 2 cores can really help with encoding (or compiling, depending on the compiler). It's also pretty easy to overclock (coming from someone who's never done it before). I've currently got my 5820K running at 4.0GHz, air-cooled, and it generally sits around 35-40C (or ~60C under extremely heavy load).

If you're looking for something with more cores, I'd highly recommend it. As a bonus, Broadwell-E should also be compatible with the X99 chipset and 2011-3 socket, so there's room to upgrade down the line without a motherboard refresh.

Just making sure you're aware, that processor wouldn't work on your current motherboard and they don't come with a cooler. So you would need to track down an X79 motherboard and a socket 2011 compatible cooler. Memory express has a bunch of x79 boards that are open box or refurbished in their clearance store, if you happen to be in one of those cities.

But honestly you're probably better off just getting a 5820k and ddr4 if you're going to be spending that much anyway.

Thanks for the recommendation, the 5820K does look interesting. Any motherboard / ram you guys can suggest ? I assume I can't re-use my DDR3.
 
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