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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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MetalDeer

Member
Had a thought as I'm looking at the ugly ass of my computer, so positioned to give me access to the ports - Are there any cases that mount the motherboard backwards, so as to have all the ports in front? I haven't used an optical drive in years, there's really no reason for the front of my PC to be a blank slate. I found this during a google search, which is a good alternate path to what I'm thinking of, but not quite ideal.

There is the Silverstone RV05, which has rotated motherboard mounting, putting the I/O on the top of the case, not sure if it's what you're looking for.
 

LilJoka

Member
Almost as soon as I finished making that post I got it to work. I never want to do that again.

Lol
I remember some tips on how to do this. First do one side as you can do it without stretching the clips by moving the fan across just so the clip has enough tension to not fall off.
Then push the fan across and install the other clip but keep the fan pushed such that it's not a problem in stretching the clip so much. Then just let go and the fan will settle in the middle.
 

MetalDeer

Member
Oooooo. Not quite what I had in mind, but probably a better choice, especially since my PC is on the floor these days. Thanks!

No problem. I think Silverstone has a few other cases with that orientation, not sure about other brands, though. Could always try searching for "rotated motherboard cases", or something like that.
 

Cocaloch

Member
Prices have changed a little since then, so you can swap one or two out.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.77 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($299.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($55.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $868.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-14 14:55 EDT-0400
  • This has a Z170 board, so if you decide to upgrade to the i5-6600K or i7-6700K in the future you can do the overclocking you've marked as "Maybe" :)
  • As you have a Z170 board you can have some faster RAM in there, so there's some 3000MHz DDR4 in now.
  • With the stock shortages on the EVO getting worse the price is climbing up again, so the Crucial BX200 is there now (you'd likely not notice the difference).
  • The R9 390 has gone up - the cheapest one is now $300, but the GTX 970 isn't significantly cheaper so it's not worth swapping it out.
  • There's a slightly nicer case, plus in your previous build you wouldn't have been able to use the Bluetooth functionality of your wireless card due to a lack of USB2.0 headers, but as there's no card reader on the case you can use it with this one.
  • Finally there's a better power supply, if slightly lower wattage.

Do I need to get an after market cooler for this?
 

cHinzo

Member
Do I need to get an after market cooler for this?

No, since you won't be able to overclock with a non-K processor. An aftermarket cooler is great if you want lower temperatures and/or less noise. A stock cooler is fine though if you go with those parts.
 

Kudo

Member
It's Windows 10.

I think Windows 10 uses some sort of internet activation so you can just use the Media Creation Tool from Microsofts site to create yourself an bootable USB to install Windows and when it's done it should automatically activate it for you, given that you installed the right version.
Might want to wait for someone to confirm this though, I'm not 100% sure it works like that but fairly. That's the most effective way of taking out the trash.
 

Cocaloch

Member
No, since you won't be able to overclock with a non-K processor. An aftermarket cooler is great if you want lower temperatures and/or less noise. A stock cooler is fine though if you go with those parts.

So it looks like overclocking would cost me around 60 then, for upgrading to the 6600k and the cooler. Would the increased performance be worth it?
 
You can use the pc until you buy some alcohol, then redo it. Your computer isn't going to overheat and blow up. You just won't get the best temperatures. Just leave the cpu at stock speeds.

Ah okay. I will monitor the temps and see if it's too high. Will replace it if it is. So nervous to boot up my PC when I get it all done though, literally grounding myself every 5 minutes on the radiator then put the Mobo on my knees for a minute to get a better angle mounting the bracket >.< Hope it didn't do any damage to it. Noob mistake.
 

Elitist1945

Member
Silly question, but you did plug the power connector in as well as the sata?

No idea. I was gonna use it to install Windows but I just gave up and used a USB instead. Worked like a charm, and my PC is running. Thanks guys!

EDIT: But my PC is only detecting one of my RAM sticks (2x8gb)
 

cHinzo

Member
So it looks like overclocking would cost me around 60 then, for upgrading to the 6600k and the cooler. Would the increased performance be worth it?

It's definitely worth it. You will also be able to use your rig for a longer period if you have the ability to overclock. I mean, people are still using the 2500K cpu from a couple of years back and are fine.
 

fatchris

Member
So it looks like overclocking would cost me around 60 then, for upgrading to the 6600k and the cooler. Would the increased performance be worth it?

You'll find that people are pretty enthusiastic about overclocking here, although it's unlikely that you'll see dramatic gains in real-life (uh, gaming) performance when overclocking post Haswell i5/i7 processors.

Yeah, Sandy Bridge (2500k/2600k) cpus are still going strong, but they're legendary overclockers and each successive generation has performed worse in that department. I remember when Ivy Bridge was released and the overclocking community was up in arms over it. Then Haswell came out and was even worse. The demand for a Haswell chip that you could overclock even moderately was so high that many people double dipped when Intel released Devil's Canyon - essentially better binned versions of their earlier chips.

So yeah, overclocking is relatively straightforward, safe and inexpensive if you want a few frames more in your games; however, you might end up spending $60 on overclocking gear and find that your chip will not essentially overclock at all. Or you might win the silicone lottery, reach 5GHz on the stock air cooler and could sell your chip to some nerd for $5000.
 
No idea. I was gonna use it to install Windows but I just gave up and used a USB instead. Worked like a charm, and my PC is running. Thanks guys!

EDIT: But my PC is only detecting one of my RAM sticks (2x8gb)

Reseat it, usually fixes it. Or you have a bad stick that needs replacing.
 

Lunar FC

Member
Hey guys, major computer problems here.

Built a new machine for VR in January. The whole project was a disaster from the start partly due to my own incompitance in mounting the motherboard straight to the case without using spacers. It had been giving me bios and boot issues from day one that I just have put up with since it is too late to return anything. Came home yesterday to a blue sceen saying it couldn't load windows. Tried restarting the PC and it booted but put out no display. Also noticed it wasn't powering the reciever for my mouse which seemed strange. No idea wtf is going on.

I've already accepted shit is broken, so what is my best course of action?
 
Hey guys, major computer problems here.

Built a new machine for VR in January. The whole project was a disaster from the start partly due to my own incompitance in mounting the motherboard straight to the case without using spacers. It had been giving me bios and boot issues from day one that I just have put up with since it is too late to return anything. Came home yesterday to a blue sceen saying it couldn't load windows. Tried restarting the PC and it booted but put out no display. Also noticed it wasn't powering the reciever for my mouse which seemed strange. No idea wtf is going on.

I've already accepted shit is broken, so what is my best course of action?
I would try setting up an RMA with the manufacturer of the motherboard. There is normally some type of limited extended warranty on those.

Since it sounds like you're suspecting that the motherboard is messed up.
 

Chairhome

Member
Almost have around $200 to spend on a new video card. Was going to go with a 960 4gb, but I'm hearing I could get a much better amd card for a little more? Any suggestions?
 

SRG01

Member
There is always some space left enough to get there though it may be a bit difficult. No videocard completely blocks you from accessing that tab.

Yeah, I think I figured it out, thanks :) I remembered that my other PCI-E slot also had a tab on it, so I visualized how I would get at the tab. I may have to get a plastic spatula or something to keep it open while pulling vertically.
 

Lunar FC

Member
I would try setting up an RMA with the manufacturer of the motherboard. There is normally some type of limited extended warranty on those.

Since it sounds like you're suspecting that the motherboard is messed up.

I have no idea what the issue is, i'm just presuming it's the mobo because it's given problems before. If the mobo is the issue and I replace it will I run into more issues with the ssd/os?

Edit: Noticed that if I plug my phone in via usb it charges it, but it can't charge my usb reciever? Am I low on power? Literally dumdfounded over here guys and want to throw it out my window.

Edit2: Unplugged a usb that was coming from my monitor and now I have video. But not booting correctly. Seems like deff the mobo rn. These issues are blowing my mind.
 

Canklestank

Neo Member
No idea. I was gonna use it to install Windows but I just gave up and used a USB instead. Worked like a charm, and my PC is running. Thanks guys!

EDIT: But my PC is only detecting one of my RAM sticks (2x8gb)

If reseating doesn't work, try booting with just one stick of RAM, then the other (in the spot designated by your mobo's manual). If one of them won't boot, it's probably a bad stick. You can run a memtest to check for problems with the sticks to verify. If they both will boot, run memtest anyway, but you might have a bad slot in your mobo. But let's try and rule out the RAM first before jumping to that conclusion.
 

paskowitz

Member
Okay since I don't have alcohol, should I just box it up and leave it until I get some? Also, the little nub that sits up, is that supposed to click into the bracket?

Edit: Success! I got it applied, it was the little nub not alligned giving me grief I think. I just hope there is adequate thermal paste on there now, most of the cpu was covered when I took it off to realign it. Do you guys recommend that I take it all off completely, clean with alcohol and reapply the thermal paste? Or should I be good with my current situation?

Glad to hear it worked out. As long as you don't see high temps you should be fine. Anything over 50c at idle and 90c at load is likely an indication you should reapply the thermal paste.
 

Kevin

Member
So I am considering getting a new 28 inch monitor for both gaming and movies and was wondering if it's worth getting a 2K monitor or a 4K monitor. Wanted some opinions from some of you guys. Is 4K worth it for a 28 inch computer monitor or should I just stick with my 2K panel?

Was thinking about buying this monitor:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/33175474475...n=icep&rmvSB=true&afepn=5335869999&rmvSB=true

It would be mostly used for movies and games. Any thoughts? I sit at about maybe two and a half feet from the screen.
 

Vaga

Member
Found my 6700k stable @4.6Ghz 1.3v, idle temps around 30 full load barely exceeds 70. Are the voltage&temps ok, do I still have space to mess around?
 

knitoe

Member
So I am considering getting a new 28 inch monitor for both gaming and movies and was wondering if it's worth getting a 2K monitor or a 4K monitor. Wanted some opinions from some of you guys. Is 4K worth it for a 28 inch computer monitor or should I just stick with my 2K panel?

Was thinking about buying this monitor:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/33175474475...n=icep&rmvSB=true&afepn=5335869999&rmvSB=true

It would be mostly used for movies and games. Any thoughts? I sit at about maybe two and a half feet from the screen.

I am using a 28" Gsync 4K. The pixel density is great. You pretty much don't need any AA ingame, but you better have a monster SLI/CF rig to run current games at that res.
 
Glad to hear it worked out. As long as you don't see high temps you should be fine. Anything over 50c at idle and 90c at load is likely an indication you should reapply the thermal paste.

Okay thanks :) Now just hoping I didn't mess up any CPU pins or static shocked the board *fingers crossed*
 
I have no idea what the issue is, i'm just presuming it's the mobo because it's given problems before. If the mobo is the issue and I replace it will I run into more issues with the ssd/os?

Edit: Noticed that if I plug my phone in via usb it charges it, but it can't charge my usb reciever? Am I low on power? Literally dumdfounded over here guys and want to throw it out my window.

Edit2: Unplugged a usb that was coming from my monitor and now I have video. But not booting correctly. Seems like deff the mobo rn. These issues are blowing my mind.

Those are very weird issues. After not seating it properly in the case right away it's hard to pinpoint. I would start with the mobo and try to isolate the problem there.

If it's not the mobo then it might be the PSU and/or the SSD.

All are options. You could try and replace them all and see what happens or do them one by one.
 

LilJoka

Member
Found my 6700k stable @4.6Ghz 1.3v, idle temps around 30 full load barely exceeds 70. Are the voltage&temps ok, do I still have space to mess around?

Yes thats fine?
How did you test it? And did you use manual vcore or offset/adaptive?

I was using offset and GTA V crashed in 5 mins after 1hr30 mins of X264 bench at 4.5Ghz 1.34v.

Going back to good old Prime95 now.
 

Vaga

Member
Yes thats fine?
How did you test it? And did you use manual vcore or offset/adaptive?

I was using offset and GTA V crashed in 5 mins after 1hr30 mins of X264 bench at 4.5Ghz 1.34v.

Going back to good old Prime95 now.

I used manual first then switched to adaptive on +. It goes up to 1.33 in realbench/aida64 stress tests so far. I am against prime95 with a passion, highly unrealistic in day to day use.

What seemed strange and really fucked up was the default auto bios settings. Vcore would go crazy all over the place up to almost 1.38 at 4.0Ghz, well 4.2 turbo.
 
This is probably a stupid question but the HD audio cables from my case go to "speaker" on the mother board right?

Edit:

Nevermind, when in doubt re-read the manuals.
 

LilJoka

Member
I used manual first then switched to adaptive on +. It goes up to 1.33 in realbench/aida64 stress tests so far. I am against prime95 with a passion, highly unrealistic in day to day use.

What seemed strange and really fucked up was the default auto bios settings. Vcore would go crazy all over the place up to almost 1.38 at 4.0Ghz, well 4.2 turbo.

The point of stress tests is to quickly find instability. Prime tends to win there for me. Higher temps mean more work done in a second, meaning more operations tested. I test blend with 12gb ran tested too.
Realbench is quite easy to pass though so I suspect you might run into issues later unless your chip is really a winner.

Anyway if your day to day use is stable it doesn't matter what you used to test really.
 

polychron

Member
So my old PC is starting to give up the ghost after around 4~ish years and I've decided I want to just refresh it all in 1 go, salvage the SSD and RAM from the old rig and otherwise go new. Is it worth holding out for Pascal/Polaris at this point, or no? I'm not in a desperate hurry, if the thing finally does fail (as the GPU and CPU are both threatening to do) I'll just make do with the PS4 for a while. but if the next generation are ages off I'll probably just take the plunge.
 

Elitist1945

Member
12999555_987394121344045_54387692_o.jpg

Shes all done. I'm very happy with the results. One of the LED strips didn't work, but it still looks great imo. Still have to figure out the RAM issue when I find a moment, but for now, I'm pleased and so far none of the games I've played have had issues (The Division runs flawlessly at Ultra settings).

Edit: tried reseating RAM to see which is faulty and now each one gives me the 53 error no matter if they're individual or together, any slot. Great.

Edit2: got it to work, but it still only picks up one of the RAM sticks. I hope this is just a stick issue and not a mobo issue. I'll pop by Canada Computers later.
 

Finaika

Member
So my old PC is starting to give up the ghost after around 4~ish years and I've decided I want to just refresh it all in 1 go, salvage the SSD and RAM from the old rig and otherwise go new. Is it worth holding out for Pascal/Polaris at this point, or no? I'm not in a desperate hurry, if the thing finally does fail (as the GPU and CPU are both threatening to do) I'll just make do with the PS4 for a while. but if the next generation are ages off I'll probably just take the plunge.

Wait for Pascal.
 
If anyone has any recommended changes to this build that'd be great. I'm pretty set on this particular case and am going for a white/black theme. Thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.77 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm QuickFire Rapid Wired Gaming Keyboard ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1151.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-16 13:14 EDT-0400
 
Is 3DMark still the go to benchmarking software?

Pretty good to use as a GPU benchmarking and stability test, but ideally you should use other GPU-intensive programs to stress test your GPU. (Unigine Heaven and Unigine Valley, OCCT's GPU stress test, MSI Kombustor's non-FurMark based tests, and, of course, current and last-gen video games that can push hardware (Anything Crysis 1-level, around it, or better will work, at the maxed out settings...)
 

Elitist1945

Member
So playing BF4 my GPU temp was around 70 (celsius) if my Cam NZXT app is to be believed. That seems really hot - is that a normal temp?
 
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