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[Theonik]

Huh. Just took a look at my RAM speed for the first time (bought it in 2013).

Is just that the current speed or what the stock speed is supposed to be? I've been hearing that the minimum most people get is like 1600.

Since this is DDR memory, 666MHz actually means it's running at 1333MHz. Have you enabled an XMP profile for your modules? JEDEC standard timings for DDR3 modules will always default to 1333MHz so you need to set the XMP profile to get the advertised speed off your modules in your BIOS.

 

[Vuze]

Do you guys know what such an "adapter" is called? It seems like a massive QoL improvement instead of fiddling with the single Power/LED wires especially if you need to take them often out frequently for cable management reason etc.

 

[ISee]

Do you guys know what such an "adapter" is called? It seems like a massive QoL improvement instead of fiddling with the single Power/LED wires especially if you need to take them often out frequently for cable management reason etc.

Q-connector.

 

[Theonik]

Do you guys know what such an "adapter" is called? It seems like a massive QoL improvement instead of fiddling with the single Power/LED wires especially if you need to take them often out frequently for cable management reason etc.

These will usually come with your Motherboard, every Asus board I had since 2011 had them. You can't really make generic ones since the pinout is different on each board.
Other manufacturers do their own variants of it though.

 

[Vuze]

Q-connector.

These will usually come with your Motherboard, every Asus board I had since 2011 had them. You can't really make generic ones since the pinout is different on each board.
Other manufacturers do their own variants of it though.

Cool, thanks for the info. I'll check if the pinout is the same on my board and probably try to snag one off ebay or sth.

 

[hateradio]

So, I just lost a Seagate HD. Go figure.

What are some of the more reliable ones? I'm looking for something that's 2-3TBs.

I'll probably get two since I'm going to also backup my 1TB drive, which is a Hitachi that I've had for quite a long while.

I'm also thinking of doing a NAS and finally getting some redundancy.

 

[DBT85]

So, I just lost a Seagate HD. Go figure.

What are some of the more reliable ones? I'm looking for something that's 2-3TBs.

I'll probably get two since I'm going to also backup my 1TB drive, which is a Hitachi that I've had for quite a long while.

I'm also thinking of doing a NAS and finally getting some redundancy.

Hitachi I believe are the most reliable from data a company released on their own usage. Seagates were bad if I recall.

 

[Spookie]

Hitachi I believe are the most reliable from data a company released on their own usage. Seagates were bad if I recall.

I've had a WD Black & Blue for over 6 years and it's still working fine.

 

[DBT85]

I've had a WD Black & Blue for over 6 years and it's still working fine.

Ok?

 

[MikeE21286]

Western Digital or Hitachi in my experience

 

[Jeffrey]

Looking for some upgrading order priority advice.

Rolling with a 3570k (little OC to 4.2ghz), 16gb ram, 980 ti powering a 1440p monitor + 1080p monitor.

not really having the smoothest experience in modern games at 1440p with higher settings.

There's probably the issue that some games seem to max out at 59 hz for that bootleg korean monitor (looked around, doesn't seem to be any OC opportunities).

I'm thinking getting a new monitor, and maybe upgrading that cpu?

How are G-Sync monitors these days? Do they work for most games outside of win10 apps? Any 1440p options with decent reliability yet?

 

[CybernatonEvolution]

There is no power at all in my PC. My PSU is showing double the voltage values (Corsair RM 650) when I test it with a multimeter. It obviously has a voltage converter/transformer, and the AC adapter that is connected to it is 110-220V too.

I don't know if I have to get a new PSU (I hope that is the case). I am worried that my motherboard is dead or that stupid PSU ruined everything else.

 

[_BtB_]

There is no power at all in my PC. My PSU is showing double the voltage values (Corsair RM 650) when I test it with a multimeter. It obviously has a voltage converter/transformer, and the AC adapter that is connected to it is 110-220V too.

I don't know if I have to get a new PSU (I hope that is the case). I am worried that my motherboard is dead or that stupid PSU ruined everything else.

not sure, but maybe do the psu pin test and have a fan hooked up to the power supply to see if the fan spins or not? here is corsair instructions, http://www.corsair.com/en-us/support/faqs/power-supplies scroll down to "power supply paperclip test" and click it.

JohnnyGuru had two dead 5v on the power supply i believe that is what he is saying.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=363
Perhaps that might be the problem?
other then that I do not know, sorry. hope it works out.

I'd just boost the 2500k, it's a more than capable processor for your needs.

Thanks man, took your advice and raise 2500k to 4.5, seems I gained 5-15 fps sitting in my WoW garrison and higher in the world. Still have to test for stability for 12hrs, but passed 6hrs before I woke up and stopped it. But damn oc'ing this processor was super easy compared to my old Q6600

 

[DjRalford]

For the last 2 years I've been running a h100i with my 4790k, temps always stayed around 60c under load in prime so thought nothing of it.

Today I bumped it upto 4.6ghz, ran prime for a few hours with max temps of 70c, still perfectly safe, I notice though my coolant temp is only 37c, never paid much attention to it before, in a 20c ambient temp, should the coolant temp be so much cooler than the CPU temp? I would have expected it to be around 10c less maybe but a 30c difference seems a lot.

 

[ISee]

Looking for some upgrading order priority advice.

Rolling with a 3570k (little OC to 4.2ghz), 16gb ram, 980 ti powering a 1440p monitor + 1080p monitor.

not really having the smoothest experience in modern games at 1440p with higher settings.

There's probably the issue that some games seem to max out at 59 hz for that bootleg korean monitor (looked around, doesn't seem to be any OC opportunities).

I'm thinking getting a new monitor, and maybe upgrading that cpu?

How are G-Sync monitors these days? Do they work for most games outside of win10 apps? Any 1440p options with decent reliability yet?

G-Sync monitors seem to work great. But you may want to wait a bit for newer models with HDR support. Shouldn't be too far away (hopefully, I'm waiting myself).

And yes if you want to upgrade your CPU go for it. You'll get better perfromance in most games especially with high end GPUs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZ_5p9wd2dk

 

[CopperPuppy]

Warning: long-winded post seeking help incoming. I promise I'm also reading the thread to educate myself, but wanted to lay out my specific inquiries to see if anyone can offer advice. Thanks in advance...

My goal is to purchase a relatively small form PC that will fit into my entertainment center alongside my consoles. I'm on a computer all day at work and frankly just want to sit in my go-to chair in the evenings for gaming sessions, so working it into my TV setup is a must. I understand this is easily done these days, especially with Big Picture Mode. My desire to do incorporate PC gaming is twofold: (1) better and earlier access to indie titles; (2) ability to play seventh generation titles at resolutions I'm now accustomed to from the new consoles.

My only problem is... I have no idea where to start. If I just wanted to go the basic tower desktop route, I feel like I'd at least know where to begin. Wanting a console-form PC, however, complicates things, because then Steam Machines are thrown in the mix, and so on and so forth.

Basically, I don't want to spend anything too crazy, but would prefer something that can run seventh generation games at max (or close to max) settings, and at least run current generation games in some format. I don't want to touch Steam OS, so would prefer something with Windows so I can also have the freedom that a normal PC offers in case I want to mess around with mods or emulation. I'm guessing, if that's the case, I would just run everything in Big Picture Mode...? I'd prefer to use a DualShock 4 for inputs, and am hoping that's possible. Again, I'm clueless here.

My hope is that there is some easy option I can turn to that I just can't locate due to my ignorance. Can anyone assist in pointing me in the right direction?

 

[LordAlu]

Warning: long-winded post seeking help incoming. I promise I'm also reading the thread to educate myself, but wanted to lay out my specific inquiries to see if anyone can offer advice. Thanks in advance...

My goal is to purchase a relatively small form PC that will fit into my entertainment center alongside my consoles. I'm on a computer all day at work and frankly just want to sit in my go-to chair in the evenings for gaming sessions, so working it into my TV setup is a must. I understand this is easily done these days, especially with Big Picture Mode. My desire to do incorporate PC gaming is twofold: (1) better and earlier access to indie titles; (2) ability to play seventh generation titles at resolutions I'm now accustomed to from the new consoles.

My only problem is... I have no idea where to start. If I just wanted to go the basic tower desktop route, I feel like I'd at least know where to begin. Wanting a console-form PC, however, complicates things, because then Steam Machines are thrown in the mix, and so on and so forth.

Basically, I don't want to spend anything too crazy, but would prefer something that can run seventh generation games at max (or close to max) settings, and at least run current generation games in some format. I don't want to touch Steam OS, so would prefer something with Windows so I can also have the freedom that a normal PC offers in case I want to mess around with mods or emulation. I'm guessing, if that's the case, I would just run everything in Big Picture Mode...? I'd prefer to use a DualShock 4 for inputs, and am hoping that's possible. Again, I'm clueless here.

My hope is that there is some easy option I can turn to that I just can't locate due to my ignorance. Can anyone assist in pointing me in the right direction?

Do you have a general idea on how much you'd be looking to spend? We can recommend stuff based on that for you.

 

[Deleted member 22576]

I'm sure a lot of the "steam machine" class systems can be purchased with Windows rather than SteamOS. I'd start by looking into those since it sounds like you're not intending to build from scratch.

DS4 works fine on PC from my experience, though I am on Win7 still.

 

[CopperPuppy]

Do you have a general idea on how much you'd be looking to spend? We can recommend stuff based on that for you.

Thanks for the quick reply. Browsing Steam Machine prices, it seems like something decent can be purchased for $500 or less. I'd like to come in somewhere around there, though if that's unrealistic then please let me know.

 

[Deleted member 22576]

Rando: Anyone know where I could find a ASUS VG248QE Gsync module?

 

[ethomaz]

Well just try lower timings and see if it boots.
2800mhz CL15 is still kind of loose. No harm in 1.35v VDIMM.

You should fix the VCCSA and VCCIO as in AUTO they can be over volted a lot. Start at 1.1v on each.

The best way to test stability is using a Linux Mint ISO and running Google stress app test. You'll find details in the overclock.net Skylake memory oc thread.

First test...

2800 @ 1.2v 14-14-14-32

Booted with default settings so it didn't work.

My VCCSA is 1.068v and VCCIO 0.960v... these looking at BIOS... men voltage is 1.196v.

Edit - 2800 @ 1.35v 14-15-15-32 worked.

 

[LordAlu]

Thanks for the quick reply. Browsing Steam Machine prices, it seems like something decent can be purchased for $500 or less. I'd like to come in somewhere around there, though if that's unrealistic then please let me know.

You'd probably be looking at something like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($67.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($26.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston FURY 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($159.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($37.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $498.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-09 13:58 EDT-0400

It would outperform the $500 Alienware Alpha, with double the RAM, an SSD and a more powerful GPU. The disadvantages are that you'd have to purchase Windows separately (for about $20-$25 you can get it from Reddit), you'd have less storage space (the SSD is faster but smaller - you could always add a big mechanical drive later though) and whilst the case isn't as wide, it is taller and slightly deeper. Unfortunately getting low height cases is much more expensive due to also needing a decent SFX power supply. If you wanted a better graphics card later it would also be worth spending an extra $10 to get the Corsair CX600M power supply so it has enough PCIe connectors.

 

[LilJoka]

First test...

2800 @ 1.2v 14-14-14-32

Booted with default settings so it didn't work.

My VCCSA is 1.068v and VCCIO 0.960v... these looking at BIOS... men voltage is 1.196v.

Edit - 2800 @ 1.35v 14-15-15-32 worked.

1.2v VDIMM is literally for 2133Mhz, may get a bit more out of it since the RAM is cherry picked for 3200Mhz, but dont expect miracles.

Board will scale VCCSA and VCCIO with Ram freq, so just keep an eye on it. 1.1v on both is more than enough and safe, although these voltages are picky, and more isnt always better.

 

[CopperPuppy]

You'd probably be looking at something like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($67.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($26.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston FURY 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($159.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($37.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $498.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-09 13:58 EDT-0400

It would outperform the $500 Alienware Alpha, with double the RAM, an SSD and a more powerful GPU. The disadvantages are that you'd have to purchase Windows separately (for about $20-$25 you can get it from Reddit), you'd have less storage space (the SSD is faster but smaller - you could always add a big mechanical drive later though) and whilst the case isn't as wide, it is taller and slightly deeper. Unfortunately getting low height cases is much more expensive due to also needing a decent SFX power supply. If you wanted a better graphics card later it would also be worth spending an extra $10 to get the Corsair CX600M power supply so it has enough PCIe connectors.

I appreciate the detailed response.

Frankly, I was looking at the Alienware Alpha (not the Steam Machine version), solely for ease of configuration and simplicity. I've read good and bad things. Is there a GAF consensus on it?

 

[NOKYARD]

I appreciate the detailed response.

Frankly, I was looking at the Alienware Alpha (not the Steam Machine version), solely for ease of configuration and simplicity. I've read good and bad things. Is there a GAF consensus on it?

I do not have experience with that particular machine but I do know that a 5400 rpm Hard Drive as your main drive is a terrible choice compared to a SSD.

 

[Slathe]

I tried swapping from a Radeon 6850 to a nvidia 970 and my system did not like it. I assume it was a driver conflict because I didn't correctly uninstall the AMD drivers. So I returned the nvidia card because I couldn't solve the issue myself and computer kept crashing out or booting to a black screen. Am I right in assuming it was probably the drivers? I also had physical installation concerns because the old card used a six pin connector and I needed a six and an eight for the new one. I ended up using some adapters that came with the card to get it all hooked up but I don't know if I was doing it correctly I just plugged stuff in where it seemed to fit.

In any case, I noticed nobody seems to recommend higher end Radeon cards here compared to nvidia. Is there any reason for that? Would I likely have an easier time going with a Radeon upgrade? If so should I be looking at an r290 or 390?

 

[TheExodu5]

Warning: do not install Asus AI Suite 3.

It was an absolute pain to install since Windows 10 tries to block chains of exes calling each other during installation. On top of that, with it installed (and even uninstalled after the fact), my PC would take over a minute to fully shut down. I had to reinstall Windows to fix this.

 

[LilJoka]

Warning: do not install Asus AI Suite 3.

It was an absolute pain to install since Windows 10 tries to block chains of exes calling each other during installation. On top of that, with it installed (and even uninstalled after the fact), my PC would take over a minute to fully shut down. I had to reinstall Windows to fix this.

Had the same trouble with installation. I just wanted fan xpert.

This is why I highly recommend never installing mobo software when overclocking, since their product is so buggy it can cause BSODs itself which act as false positives to instability.

And uninstalling them has ALWAYS been a massive pain. They are very low level hooks into the system to control everything and its never reliable.

 

[manny10032]

Does it matter if a Mobo does not have a DVI port? Or is it better to get one with a port?

 

[HarryDemeanor]

Does it matter if a Mobo does not have a DVI port? Or is it better to get one with a port?

Unless you were going to use the onboard graphics instead of a GPU, otherwise you don't need to worry about one.

 

[TheExodu5]

Had the same trouble with installation. I just wanted fan xpert.

This is why I highly recommend never installing mobo software when overclocking, since their product is so buggy it can cause BSODs itself which act as false positives to instability.

And uninstalling them has ALWAYS been a massive pain. They are very low level hooks into the system to control everything and its never reliable.

Yep. I tried disabling all of the services and the issues still persisted. Not sure where to hooks were, but I couldn't even find them.

Lesson learned.

 

[LilJoka]

Yep. I tried disabling all of the services and the issues still persisted. Not sure where to hooks were, but I couldn't even find them.

Lesson learned.

Only solution i found: format or pray it works right.

 

[Jeffrey]

G-Sync monitors seem to work great. But you may want to wait a bit for newer models with HDR support. Shouldn't be too far away (hopefully, I'm waiting myself).

And yes if you want to upgrade your CPU go for it. You'll get better perfromance in most games especially with high end GPUs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZ_5p9wd2dk

Not too familiar with cpu tech timeline. is it worth getting a 6700k right now, or anything major coming out in the new year so?

 

[manny10032]

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xTNpjX

I'm using my current PSU, Hdd, Ssd, and my gtx660. I'm waiting for the 1070 to come out.

Should I do a better Mobo?

 

[OkayRene]

Two questions:

1. Do you stress test your computer/individual parts after a build or upgrade? Wondering how common it is to do that.
2. Do you hang onto all your boxes the parts came in after completing the build?

 

[DjRalford]

Two questions:

1. Do you stress test your computer/individual parts after a build or upgrade? Wondering how common it is to do that.
2. Do you hang onto all your boxes the parts came in after completing the build?

Yes

Yes

Stress testing is a quick way to see if the hardware has any issues straight away.

I store all old boxes in the loft

 

[SkyTurnsRed]

Sorry for another monitor question. I have a 1080p, 144 hz monitor currently. Someone in another thread brought up a good point when I asked about the Swift with a 1080, and thus I want to ask:

GTX 1070 with ROG Swift, or
GTX 1080 without ROG Swift?

I don't feel comfortable dropping the money to do a 1080/Swift combo. I'm just trying to decide what will be better. The person also mentioned selling my 1070 when the 1080 ti is announced. Is that a viable alternative?

 

[LilJoka]

Two questions:

1. Do you stress test your computer/individual parts after a build or upgrade? Wondering how common it is to do that.
2. Do you hang onto all your boxes the parts came in after completing the build?

No, only if overclocked, any DOA parts will be easily identified with general usage within their return period. At which point i will use stress test programs to reliably find the issue.

Yes i keep all boxes.

 

[Vuze]

Two questions:

1. Do you stress test your computer/individual parts after a build or upgrade? Wondering how common it is to do that.
2. Do you hang onto all your boxes the parts came in after completing the build?

You definitely should keep them and preferably the anti-static bags + utils in case of a potential RMA. I recently sent in a 970 to MSI and they wanted original packaging, all adapters, anti-static bag etc...

Spoiler

just to send me back a generic "MSI VGA" box WITHOUT all of the stuff after two weeks. Especially great for selling off the card in the near future. I know which brand I'm not going to buy next <_<

 

[OraleeWey]

I'm probably going to OC my CPU. Maybe, not sure. I feel like I don't really need to do it now. My question is, should I use the motherboard presets and call it a day? I have an i7 4790k and the motherboard is a asrock z97 pro4.

I want to use the preset settings rather than manually because, well, I don't have the patience is the main reason and I don't know what I'm doing.

 

[DjRalford]

I'm probably going to OC my CPU. Maybe, not sure. I feel like I don't really need to do it now. My question is, should I use the motherboard presets and call it a day? I have an i7 4790k and the motherboard is a asrock z97 pro4.

I want to use the preset settings rather than manually because, well, I don't have the patience is the main reason and I don't know what I'm doing.

I know you say you don't have patience but I would get some details on what your currently running at vcore wise and temp wise.

I'm running a Maximus VII GENE, with the 4790K on a H100i

On auto settings my 4790k was using 1.28vcore at stock, i managed to lower this to just under 1.2v at stock speeds dropping my load temps in prime by about 15c.

Today i have it running prime stable at 4.6Ghz @ 70c on 1.25v, back when i first got the chip i managed to squeeze 4.8Ghz out of it at 1.3v but the temps were close to 85c in Prime, although no where near the thermal throttle of the chip i like it to be under 80.

Once you find out what your current vcore is try manually setting that vcore with an overclock and test, keep bumping the clock by 100mhz until your stability test crashes, then you either move the speed down to stabilize, or boost voltage.

 

[RedSwirl]

Have you enabled an XMP profile for your modules? JEDEC standard timings for DDR3 modules will always default to 1333MHz so you need to set the XMP profile to get the advertised speed off your modules in your BIOS.

Dude I just bought the RAM and put it in there.

 

[Brandon F]

Do you guys know what such an "adapter" is called? It seems like a massive QoL improvement instead of fiddling with the single Power/LED wires especially if you need to take them often out frequently for cable management reason etc.

Varies based on Mobo manufacturer. Asus I believe does the 'Q-connector' as discussed, while I have a Gigabyte board that offers an identical option with a different branding.

Can't imagine that most modern motherboards don't include one these days.

 

[Brandon F]

Dude I just bought the RAM and put it in there.

Go into BIOS and look for an 'XMP enable' option. Shouldn't be difficult to find really as it is a very common toggle without being too buried. Enable it, save and exit and your RAM should now be running at the advertised OC speed. (Assuming the RAM you installed had an advertised speed beyond what you posted).

 

[ISee]

Not too familiar with cpu tech timeline. is it worth getting a 6700k right now, or anything major coming out in the new year so?

It's safe to upgrade your CPU right now, if you're looking for Intel CPUs. The successor to Skylake (I3/5/7 6XXX) is supposed to be available in the second half of 2017. That's more than a year away.
If you don't care about brand loyalty (and nobody really should). AMDs new Zen CPUs should show up this late summer or early fall. The thing is nobody knows how good they're going to be. Probably better than AMDs current CPUs but that's all I can say. Everything else is (more or less) speculative.
So should you wait for Zen? Well, you already bought a high end GPU. If you can afford it, upgrade your cpu now and enjoy it.

Is the i7 worth it? Right now, no. Performance wise the 6600k and the 6700k are close to each other in gaming scenarios. But the 6700k could be more future proof with his ability to at least handle 8 threads on his 4 cores (of course the term 'future proof' is very stretchy... everything has to be exchanged if enough time goes by) and personally I decided to get the 6700k.
Right now 4 threads are the bare minimum for gaming, some games even refuse to start on 2core CPUs without hyper threading and I think the ability to handle more than 4 threads will become more and more important. But there is also Intels high end CPU series with more than 'just' 4cores. If you're willing to pay extra for it. The i7-5820K for examples offers 6 cores + HTT (12 threads total) and the succesor (i7 6800K) should be available this summer. But you'll need a more expansive x99 mainboard to be able to use intels high end cpus and of course the cpu is also more expansive. It's a premium product for enthusiasts.

DF also made a good video about the i7 6700k:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhaB1dqYv_I

 

[Vaettir]

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xTNpjX

I'm using my current PSU, Hdd, Ssd, and my gtx660. I'm waiting for the 1070 to come out.

Should I do a better Mobo?

That's a top of the line mobo you put down. If you like it for cosmetics and the features then it's great. If you think you don't need the feature set the Sabertooth boards offer then you could settle for something a bit cheaper.

 

[DjRalford]

For the last 2 years I've been running a h100i with my 4790k, temps always stayed around 60c under load in prime so thought nothing of it.

Today I bumped it upto 4.6ghz, ran prime for a few hours with max temps of 70c, still perfectly safe, I notice though my coolant temp is only 37c, never paid much attention to it before, in a 20c ambient temp, should the coolant temp be so much cooler than the CPU temp? I would have expected it to be around 10c less maybe but a 30c difference seems a lot.

Quoting myself for new page

 

[LilJoka]

Quoting myself for new page

Firstly, is the sensor even accurate? Secondly, your temps seem more than decent so wouldn't worry.

 

[DjRalford]

Firstly, is the sensor even accurate? Secondly, your temps seem more than decent so wouldn't worry.

The temps don't worry me, just trying to understand how the water temp works

 

[Vaettir]

The temps don't worry me, just trying to understand how the water temp works

I wouldn't worry about your coolant temps. You would notice immediate changes like higher CPU temps if the coolant starts to defect.