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[BlackJace]

I imagine it's nothing an air duster couldn't solve.

EDIT: Probably not going to go for it considering it's pretty slanted towards water cooling, but damn does it look neat.

 

[TheExodu5]

I just want to say how amazing the Phanteks Evolv mATX case is. The quality of this thing is absurd. For a fraction of the price, both the design and quality put my Lian-Li to shame. This case is so easy to work with. It's bigger than most mATX cases but it's still pretty shallow thanks to the lack of front drive bays. The aluminum panels are also super thick and sturdy. Yeah, it's heavy, but the gauge of the aluminum is impressive and my paper thin Lian-Li feels really cheap by comparison.

Phanteks has now become my favorite case manufacturer.

That being said, my front intake fan is defective so I gotta RMA that sucker.

 

[Clipse]

Overwatch is pretty easy to run, so yes it will run it very comfortably as I already manage that with a five year old i5 and an 970. So I suppose it is a bit overkill. However it is still a pretty solid build and would work well for upcoming games (although we don't know yet how the 1070 will perform).

that i7 and a GTX 1070 will do more than 1080p 60fps no problem. you should be looking at 1440p 60fps. maybe even some 4K at 30fps.

those games don't really require much to run at 1080p 60fps. i have an i5-4590/16GB/R9 290 and can completely max settings on CS:GO, SFV, TF2, and Overwatch at 1080p 60fps.

Thanks for the replies! Much appreciated!

I guess I should start looking into 1440p monitors as well if this build is able to run at 1440p/60fps.

 

[Zackat]

Try updating BIOS. I did this and it fixed my RAM issues.

yeah I don't know how to do this. I found the update file and it is in a .1B0 file format, is that correct? I feel like this isn't even the right thread for this kind of stuff lol.

Anyways I just have to put it on a USB drive, make the BIOS boot from the USB and install this file?

Edit: I downloaded the one that isn't from a month ago (it released in november of last year) and it has an .exe file included. I am guessing the one from a month ago is still a Beta file because it is 1.B and not 1.10 or something. I am so confused and no idea what to do lol

 

[LilJoka]

yeah I don't know how to do this. I found the update file and it is in a .1B0 file format, is that correct? I feel like this isn't even the right thread for this kind of stuff lol.

Anyways I just have to put it on a USB drive, make the BIOS boot from the USB and install this file?

Edit: I downloaded the one that isn't from a month ago (it released in november of last year) and it has an .exe file included. I am guessing the one from a month ago is still a Beta file because it is 1.B and not 1.10 or something. I am so confused and no idea what to do lol

May seem unrelated but, what CPU cooler are you using?

 

[DBT85]

I just want to say how amazing the Phanteks Evolv mATX case is. The quality of this thing is absurd. For a fraction of the price, both the design and quality put my Lian-Li to shame. This case is so easy to work with. It's bigger than most mATX cases but it's still pretty shallow thanks to the lack of front drive bays. The aluminum panels are also super thick and sturdy. Yeah, it's heavy, but the gauge of the aluminum is impressive and my paper thin Lian-Li feels really cheap by comparison.

Phanteks has now become my favorite case manufacturer.

That being said, my front intake fan is defective so I gotta RMA that sucker.

I love the atx version but want to watercool it and a few people on ocuk have said the airflow isn't great because of the limited vents front and top. So I'm probably looking at the pro m now. All their stuff looks ace though.

yeah I don't know how to do this. I found the update file and it is in a .1B0 file format, is that correct? I feel like this isn't even the right thread for this kind of stuff lol.

Anyways I just have to put it on a USB drive, make the BIOS boot from the USB and install this file?

Edit: I downloaded the one that isn't from a month ago (it released in november of last year) and it has an .exe file included. I am guessing the one from a month ago is still a Beta file because it is 1.B and not 1.10 or something. I am so confused and no idea what to do lol

There will be instructions on the page you got the file from.

 

[Zackat]

May seem unrelated but, what CPU cooler are you using?

An Asetek 510 LC that I bought on newegg (they just have it as 120MM closed-loop Liquid Cooler). I definitely skimped a little there but eh. It has seemed to work fine. No temperature problems, no leaks that I know of. I remember something about a cooler in all my reading trying to figure out what was wrong with this, but I just brushed it off. Could it be causing this problem? =/

I haven't executed the Bios update yet, and it seems like a memory fix is what was fixed when you look at the notes that come along with the update(s).

There will be instructions on the page you got the file from.

Yeah I found a manual. Thanks for your help!

 

[Oxn]

I just want to say how amazing the Phanteks Evolv mATX case is. The quality of this thing is absurd. For a fraction of the price, both the design and quality put my Lian-Li to shame. This case is so easy to work with. It's bigger than most mATX cases but it's still pretty shallow thanks to the lack of front drive bays. The aluminum panels are also super thick and sturdy. Yeah, it's heavy, but the gauge of the aluminum is impressive and my paper thin Lian-Li feels really cheap by comparison.

Phanteks has now become my favorite case manufacturer.

That being said, my front intake fan is defective so I gotta RMA that sucker.

Im glad you were happy with my suggestion. Which color you got?

 

[hohoXD123]

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£263.00)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212X 82.9 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For £30.00)
Motherboard: Asus ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO ALPHA ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For £166.00)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£71.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For £0.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For £59.00)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For £88.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For £116.00)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse (Purchased For £45.00)
Total: £838.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

I keep tinkering with my list, but this is what I have for now. Still need to buy the RAM, CPU and GPU (GTX 1080). Should come to £1300ish overall. Won't be able to assemble it for a month or two though, I'll probably hold off on the RAM and CPU for a bit since they seem to keep dropping in price.

Quick question too, I may need to transport the PC around every few months. I'll take the GPU out beforehand, but should I also be worried about the cooler at all?

 

[SkyTurnsRed]

So I'm looking at the ROG Swift to couple with my 1080 when released. My issue is that I keep hearing that the PG278Q had QC problems. Exactly how bad were they? I can get a good deal on one ($450), I'm just nervous.

If not the PG278Q, what's a better alternative?

 

[rickyson1]

so i'm looking to buy a 4k monitor very soon with pascal coming out

how up to date is the monitor section in the op I notice the prices are a bit out of date?

 

[Onemic]

I need some advice here. How good is G-Sync really? The thread for G-Sync makes it seem like its the next coming or something, but from the description it just seems like a more efficient solution for V-Sync, in that it can adapt to different frame rates. Is it that noticeable that the crazy premium Nvidia is charging(And the fact that it's locking me to Nvidia GPUs) worth it?

Asking because since Im getting a 1080, Im thinking I should probably get a new monitor as well since my current monitor only supports 1080P@60FPS.

I was looking at the Asus PG278Q, but if G-Sync really isn't all that then I'll just get a regular 1440P monitor.

 

[SkyTurnsRed]

I need some advice here. How good is G-Sync really? The thread for G-Sync makes it seem like its the next coming or something, but from the description it just seems like a more efficient solution for V-Sync, in that it can adapt to different frame rates. Is it that noticeable that the crazy premium Nvidia is charging(And the fact that it's locking me to Nvidia GPUs) worth it?

Asking because since Im getting a 1080, Im thinking I should probably get a new monitor as well since my current monitor only supports 1080P@60FPS.

I was looking at the Asus PG278Q, but if G-Sync really isn't all that then I'll just get a regular 1440P monitor.

You and I are in the same boat.

 

[EatChildren]

I need some advice here. How good is G-Sync really? The thread for G-Sync makes it seem like its the next coming or something, but from the description it just seems like a more efficient solution for V-Sync, in that it can adapt to different frame rates. Is it that noticeable that the crazy premium Nvidia is charging(And the fact that it's locking me to Nvidia GPUs) worth it?

Asking because since Im getting a 1080, Im thinking I should probably get a new monitor as well since my current monitor only supports 1080P@60FPS.

I was looking at the Asus PG278Q, but if G-Sync really isn't all that then I'll just get a regular 1440P monitor.

I have an Acer XB270HU and for me personally G-Sync is wonderful and if given the option I won't game without it. But my taste and preference in PC gaming is why it's so useful to me. I've never liked having v-sync on due to the input latency it produces, and I've always liked mostly maxing out my game settings even if at the cost of a bunch of frames. Tearing thus has been present in all my PC gaming, and high graphical settings equate to widely fluctuating framerates that for me make v-sync useless. Even in games where I was hitting a locked 60+fps I still wouldn't use v-sync as I really am super sensitive to the input latency.

For my circumstances G-Sync is a near perfect solution. It ensures every frame is sent from the framebuffer to the display as-is regardless of my inevitably swaying frames per second. In a round of Battlefront I could be anywhere from 55fps to 90+fps, and having a 144hz G-Sync lets the game dance around that window while every frame is displayed in full. Input latency is more or less zero, or at least so far removed from v-sync that it's negligible. It's effectively the best of both worlds.

It doesn't solve the perceived loss of frames in dropping framerates, because there is no magic for that, but it does a far better job of seamlessly transitioning between fluctuating framerates without disorienting visual stutter and tearing. Games with a lot of blur post processing, like The Witcher 3, gain from having every frame displayed as all those gorgeous panning shots across vistas are seen exactly as they should be; no tearing or choppiness marking the image, all visual effects, especially those based on motion displaying correctly irrespective of the dancing framerate.

I love G-Sync for what it gives me. That being said whether or not these facets are important to you is another matter entirely, and the reality is there's no guarantee you'll be blown away. There's users here who've played a G-Sync monitor and were floored at what it offered. And those like myself who, again, won't go back if given the option. Then there's those who've used a display, or even purchased one, and felt the impact of the unlocked Hz synchronisation with the framebuffer wasn't particularly noticable or important to their enjoyment of video games. Some don't care. Some are happy with the v-sync solution as is.

For these people the cost of a G-Sync monitor is a ludicrous waste of money. And honestly, as much as I adore G-Sync, I too feel the price is way, way too high for it to be anything less than an enthusiast purchase. It's not like I have the best paying job in the world; buying a G-Sync monitor was definitely a reckless splash of funds for somewhat emergent technology. The panel quality is mixed; I went with TN first and it was awful, and while my IPS is mostly fine the right side has a slight blue glow and I may need to get it sent in for repair. It's a lot of money for one fucking feature that, no matter how good, is eating into funds that could be arguably better spent elsewhere.

So I guess you need to ask yourself how important tearing and v-sync latency is to your gaming, and how much money you have to waste on tech junk.

 

[Onemic]

I have an Acer XB270HU and for me personally G-Sync is wonderful and if given the option I won't game without it. But my taste and preference in PC gaming is why it's so useful to me. I've never liked having v-sync on due to the input latency it produces, and I've always liked mostly maxing out my game settings even if at the cost of a bunch of frames. Tearing thus has been present in all my PC gaming, and high graphical settings equate to widely fluctuating framerates that for me make v-sync useless. Even in games where I was hitting a locked 60+fps I still wouldn't use v-sync as I really am super sensitive to the input latency.

For my circumstances G-Sync is a near perfect solution. It ensures every frame is sent from the framebuffer to the display as-is regardless of my inevitably swaying frames per second. In a round of Battlefront I could be anywhere from 55fps to 90+fps, and having a 144hz G-Sync lets the game dance around that window while every frame is displayed in full. Input latency is more or less zero, or at least so far removed from v-sync that it's negligible. It's effectively the best of both worlds.

It doesn't solve the perceived loss of frames in dropping framerates, because there is no magic for that, but it does a far better job of seamlessly transitioning between fluctuating framerates without disorienting visual stutter and tearing. Games with a lot of blur post processing, like The Witcher 3, gain from having every frame displayed as all those gorgeous panning shots across vistas are seen exactly as they should be; no tearing or choppiness marking the image, all visual effects, especially those based on motion displaying correctly irrespective of the dancing framerate.

I love G-Sync for what it gives me. That being said whether or not these facets are important to you is another matter entirely, and the reality is there's no guarantee you'll be blown away. There's users here who've played a G-Sync monitor and were floored at what it offered. And those like myself who, again, won't go back if given the option. Then there's those who've used a display, or even purchased one, and felt the impact of the unlocked Hz synchronisation with the framebuffer wasn't particularly noticable or important to their enjoyment of video games. Some don't care. Some are happy with the v-sync solution as is.

For these people the cost of a G-Sync monitor is a ludicrous waste of money. And honestly, as much as I adore G-Sync, I too feel the price is way, way too high for it to be anything less than an enthusiast purchase. It's not like I have the best paying job in the world; buying a G-Sync monitor was definitely a reckless splash of funds for somewhat emergent technology. The panel quality is mixed; I went with TN first and it was awful, and while my IPS is mostly fine the right side has a slight blue glow and I may need to get it sent in for repair. It's a lot of money for one fucking feature that, no matter how good, is eating into funds that could be arguably better spent elsewhere.

So I guess you need to ask yourself how important tearing and v-sync latency is to your gaming, and how much money you have to waste on tech junk.

Thanks for the write up. I never used to play with V-Sync on, but over the last year I've been playing with it almost exclusively unless I cant hit 60FPS, mainly because of Street Fighter. I do notice the slight input lag, but with triple buffering on it's not as bad. I'd probably notice the change, but I just have no idea how big of a difference it will make for me.

If I decide to go 1440P only, I'd probably save around 100-200 bucks, but at this point if Im gonna be getting a $500+ monitor I wanna be getting the best investment for the money. If that includes G-Sync so be it. I just dont want to feel like I made a mistake not getting it, like I do for the i7-6700K.

 

[MikeE21286]

Here's a question for the community, what would you do here of the below options?

My current system is
CPU: i5 2500k @ 4.4
RAM: 12gb DDR3 1333mhz
GPU: GTX 570

Options
1.
CPU: i5 6600k
RAM: 16gb DDR4 3000mhz
GPU: 1080
Total Cost to me: $1,064 after tax

2.
CPU: i5 2500k @ 4.4
RAM: 12gb DDR3 1333mhz
GPU: 1080 SLI
Total Cost to me: $1,296 after tax


Which would you go for?

I have one of the new 4k Vizio P50-C1 that I'm using as a computer monitor. I'm normally against SLI but it might be worth it given the options

 

[Deleted member 22576]

^im not a doctor but get the CPU and GPU instead of two GPUs.

 

[catabarez]

The riing is a decent fan. It's a solid color and not clear like most LED fans. Instead they have a clear ring around the fan which emits the light. The effect is very nice, I just wish it had a slightly higher RPM.

A static pressure fan is a good idea for a front fan intake with a storage bay behind it right?

 

[23qwerty]

Here's a question for the community, what would you do here of the below options?

My current system is
CPU: i5 2500k @ 4.4
RAM: 12gb DDR3 1333mhz
GPU: GTX 570

Options
1.
CPU: i5 6600k
RAM: 16gb DDR4 3000mhz
GPU: 1080
Total Cost to me: $1,064 after tax

2.
CPU: i5 2500k @ 4.4
RAM: 12gb DDR3 1333mhz
GPU: 1080 SLI
Total Cost to me: $1,296 after tax


Which would you go for?

I have one of the new 4k Vizio P50-C1 that I'm using as a computer monitor. I'm normally against SLI but it might be worth it given the options

Well you'd have to get a new motherboard to use the 6600k and the ddr4 ram as well

 

[MikeE21286]

Well you'd have to get a new motherboard to use the 6600k and the ddr4 ram as well

Yep, the costs account for that. The costs come with me buying the CPU, RAM and new Mobo for Option 1

In option 2 I don't need to buy the new CPU, RAM, or Mobo

 

[taimoorh]

Guys just a quick question regarding "overclocked" RAM.

I was planning to get the i5-6500, and read the Eurogamer review showing that with higher speed ram (say 3000MHz compared to 2133MHz), there is a decent performance boost.

Now, I was thinking of buying a H110 board, but a Z170 board is about $60 more expensive and a pair of 3000MHz ram only only about $15 more than 2133MHz.

So...can I get a Z170 motherboard, put an i5-6500 and 3000MHz RAM on it, and then only have the RAM running at 3000MHz but not have the CPU overclocked?

I don't like overclocking, but higher speed RAM that gives extra FPS in games is very welcome.

 

[ISee]

Here's a question for the community, what would you do here of the below options?

My current system is
CPU: i5 2500k @ 4.4
RAM: 12gb DDR3 1333mhz
GPU: GTX 570

Options
1.
CPU: i5 6600k
RAM: 16gb DDR4 3000mhz
GPU: 1080
Total Cost to me: $1,064 after tax

2.
CPU: i5 2500k @ 4.4
RAM: 12gb DDR3 1333mhz
GPU: 1080 SLI
Total Cost to me: $1,296 after tax


Which would you go for?

I have one of the new 4k Vizio P50-C1 that I'm using as a computer monitor. I'm normally against SLI but it might be worth it given the options

It's time to start upgrading the classic i5 2500ks. I've rocked and loved my overclocked 3570k and I was very unwilling to upgrade my CPU for a long time, but after doing it I have to admit: there is a huge difference in perfromance. Even overclocked your CPU will hold your shiny new 1080 back. The 1070 is supposed to be faster than a Titan X and a 1080 should be around 20-25% faster than a 1070.
That said, a single 1080 will (probably!) not be enough for 4k/60 gaming, but going for a high end ultra GPU solution with a a 2500k isn't worth it, imo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZ_5p9wd2dk

Granted those are stock speeds, but overclocking a sklyake i5/i7 to 4.5 ghz is doable.


edit:
@ PC Gaf:
I start to feel like a preacher, repeating the same thing over and over and over again. And I know it's annoying but I really think people buying 1080s/1070s and pairing them with 2500ks won't be satisfied.

edit 2:

Guys just a quick question regarding "overclocked" RAM.

I was planning to get the i5-6500, and read the Eurogamer review showing that with higher speed ram (say 3000MHz compared to 2133MHz), there is a decent performance boost.

Now, I was thinking of buying a H110 board, but a Z170 board is about $60 more expensive and a pair of 3000MHz ram only only about $15 more than 2133MHz.

So...can I get a Z170 motherboard, put an i5-6500 and 3000MHz RAM on it, and then only have the RAM running at 3000MHz but not have the CPU overclocked?

I don't like overclocking, but higher speed RAM that gives extra FPS in games is very welcome.

Yes. Just select the 3000mhz XMP profile for your RAM (Bios/Uefi setting) and leave the bus speed alone.

 

[Vinterbird]

This is halfway a upgrade question and a "what the hell is wrong with my machine".

My current machine is:

- i5 2500k 3.30Ghz
- Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3P
- 16 gb ram
- AMD 7970


I'm looking at getting a new Nvidia 1070 card, but will my other parts bottleneck me? My gaming needs are 1080p at either 30 or 60 frames, and maybe VR in a year or two.

Is a GPU upgrade the only thing to grab right now, or should I look into a larger investment?



And speaking of buying new stuff, my motherboard is weird. I wanted to look at overclocking my CPU, so I downloaded whatever Gigabyte recommended, something called @Bios, but whenever I open it and get into the overclock menu my entire computer locks up, and after getting it (and also upgrading the firmware) games seem to crash a lot more.

Is there a way to "reset" the motherboard or something? Or is it a situation where I should just buy a new one?

 

[LilJoka]

This is halfway a upgrade question and a "what the hell is wrong with my machine".

My current machine is:

- i5 2500k 3.30Ghz
- Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3P
- 16 gb ram
- AMD 7970


I'm looking at getting a new Nvidia 1070 card, but will my other parts bottleneck me? My gaming needs are 1080p at either 30 or 60 frames, and maybe VR in a year or two.

Is a GPU upgrade the only thing to grab right now, or should I look into a larger investment?



And speaking of buying new stuff, my motherboard is weird. I wanted to look at overclocking my CPU, so I downloaded whatever Gigabyte recommended, something called @Bios, but whenever I open it and get into the overclock menu my entire computer locks up, and after getting it (and also upgrading the firmware) games seem to crash a lot more.

Is there a way to "reset" the motherboard or something? Or is it a situation where I should just buy a new one?

Don't use software to overclock the CPU, it's always buggy. Go into the bios and make your changes.

 

[LilJoka]

Here's a question for the community, what would you do here of the below options?

My current system is
CPU: i5 2500k @ 4.4
RAM: 12gb DDR3 1333mhz
GPU: GTX 570

Options
1.
CPU: i5 6600k
RAM: 16gb DDR4 3000mhz
GPU: 1080
Total Cost to me: $1,064 after tax

2.
CPU: i5 2500k @ 4.4
RAM: 12gb DDR3 1333mhz
GPU: 1080 SLI
Total Cost to me: $1,296 after tax


Which would you go for?

I have one of the new 4k Vizio P50-C1 that I'm using as a computer monitor. I'm normally against SLI but it might be worth it given the options

Option 1, since option 2 will be massively bottlenecked by a 2500k.

 

[taimoorh]

Yes. Just select the 3000mhz XMP profile for your RAM (Bios/Uefi setting) and leave the bus speed alone.

Thanks for the clarification. Time to build a sweet mid-range Skylake/Pascal machine for $1k (i5-6500/GTX1070).

And then spend another $200 on a 144Hz monitor and $150 on a keyboard. Because goddamn RGB lights

 

[DBT85]

Yeah I found a manual. Thanks for your help!

Hope it gets all the banks working for you! A key when you think you have a faulty part is to eliminate uncertainty and isolate the fault. In your case you thought the new ram was guff, by trying it in slots that you know work, you can find that the ram is totally ok and probably not the cause of a problem!

This morning I woke up and drove to work, the furthest thing from my mind was buying new pc parts.

I bought a 2500k right when they came out and its serving me well but I've now specced out a

6700k - £270
Gigabyte Z170x-UD3 - £123
32GB Kingston Fury 2400 DDR4 - £100.

It'll run with my existing 980ti.

EDIT: And bought. Yay for 0% Paypal credit for 4 months.

Just added a Fractal Define S case to the order.

Will run with air cooling for a few months until I make my watercooling picks. Nice to have the option to run 3 140mm fans top and front.

Little perplexed why the spec says you can run a 420mm rad at the top but not at the front but I'll see when I get it. Maybe the front is just tall enough for 420mm but not for the pipes too.

 

[Joco]

So I've had my PC for about 6 months with no real issues until tonight, I was playing League of Legends when suddenly I got a blue screen that said irql_not_equal_or_less that forced me to restart. Then later I was playing some Overwatch and in the middle of a match got a blue screen that said a "critical Windows process has died". Anyone have any idea what could be going on here? Windows 10 by the way.

 

[LilJoka]

So I've had my PC for about 6 months with no real issues until tonight, I was playing League of Legends when suddenly I got a blue screen that said irql_not_equal_or_less that forced me to restart. Then later I was playing some Overwatch and in the middle of a match got a blue screen that said a "critical Windows process has died". Anyone have any idea what could be going on here? Windows 10 by the way.

And your specs?
Overclocked anything?

 

[EatChildren]

About to pull the trigger:

Query; how is this going to work with my Windows 10 install? I figure a clean installation is going to be necessary, but given I've gone from 7 -> 8.1 -> 10 on my current hardware with Microsoft's incremental upgrades, am I likely to run into serious problems with a whole MBO/CPU/RAM combo change?

 

[danthefan]

Considering this GSync monitor, just wondering if there's anything in a similar price range out there that's better? This one really is at just about the limit of my budget so would have to be in that ballpark.

This and a 1080 and hopefully I'm set for a while!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LX2J17W/

 

[LilJoka]

About to pull the trigger:

Query; how is this going to work with my Windows 10 install? I figure a clean installation is going to be necessary, but given I've gone from 7 -> 8.1 -> 10 on my current hardware with Microsoft's incremental upgrades, am I likely to run into serious problems with a whole MBO/CPU/RAM combo change?

10 is quite good with Mobo changes, CPU and RAM are not really relevant. You just need to try it.

Any reason you are going Full ATX? You could get a much smaller rig without compromising these days.

 

[EatChildren]

10 is quite good with Mobo changes, CPU and RAM are not really relevant. You just need to try it.

Any reason you are going Full ATX? You could get a much smaller rig without compromising these days.

Not really, but the MBO is affordable, and I've already got a case and PSU. I'd basically be gutting my current system, moving in the new MBO, CPU, and RAM, transferring my GPU, sound card, and heatsink across, plugging it all in to the existing PSU while using my SSD and HDD. And yeah.

Also cheers. Hopefully I can just get it all working without too much of an issue. I was able to go from an i5 to an i7 earlier without Windows 10 shitting the bed.

 

[LilJoka]

Not really, but the MBO is affordable, and I've already got a case and PSU. I'd basically be gutting my current system, moving in the new MBO, CPU, and RAM, transferring my GPU, sound card, and heatsink across, plugging it all in to the existing PSU while using my SSD and HDD. And yeah.

Also cheers. Hopefully I can just get it all working without too much of an issue. I was able to go from an i5 to an i7 earlier without Windows 10 shitting the bed.

Thats fair.

Yep as i said, its the mobo that matters, not CPU/RAM due to chipset drivers.

 

[Kieli]

What do you guys think the used market will be like now for GTX 970 and 980 Ti now?

I've been browsing sale threads and it seems prices are hovering around $400 or so.

 

[ISee]

About to pull the trigger:

Query; how is this going to work with my Windows 10 install? I figure a clean installation is going to be necessary, but given I've gone from 7 -> 8.1 -> 10 on my current hardware with Microsoft's incremental upgrades, am I likely to run into serious problems with a whole MBO/CPU/RAM combo change?

I did a clean install (I created a bottable win 10 usb drive using the windows media creation tool) 2 weeks ago after upgrading my system and I was able to activate my win10 using my win 8 key after the installation was done.

 

[DBT85]

About to pull the trigger:

Query; how is this going to work with my Windows 10 install? I figure a clean installation is going to be necessary, but given I've gone from 7 -> 8.1 -> 10 on my current hardware with Microsoft's incremental upgrades, am I likely to run into serious problems with a whole MBO/CPU/RAM combo change?

I've done full swaps with no reinstall and complete reinstalls. All on either XP or Win7 though. Clean install is best but it should deal with it just fine.

Remeber if you're doing a clean install and use an SSD and UEFI board, use a GPT rather than MBR for silly fast boot times.

 

[Big Green Anus]

Does anyone knows how to convert a NTFS to HFS? I want to use a Windows Drive and convert it into a Mac Drive.

 

[Ikuu]

Coming from a 2500k@4.5GHz anything I should change from this?

 

[roadrunn3r]

Coming from a 2500k@4.5GHz anything I should change from this?

Looks good to me.

 

[LilJoka]

Does anyone knows how to convert a NTFS to HFS? I want to use a Windows Drive and convert it into a Mac Drive.

Doesnt work like that. Would need to move the data off and re format into HFS then put the data back on.

You can enable NTFS write (read is enabled by default) on OSX though.

 

[Big Green Anus]

Doesnt work like that. Would need to move the data off and re format into HFS then put the data back on.

You can enable NTFS write (read is enabled by default) on OSX though.

I would like to format the drive to HFS using Windows. However, I see no programs that offers that.

 

[LilJoka]

I would like to format the drive to HFS using Windows. However, I see no programs that offers that.

Why not just connect it to the Mac and do it there?

A program called Transmac might help, been a long time since i used it though.

 

[Quick Mustard]

Hi guys,
I've been asked to build a decent gaming rig for my friend, but as I've been out of the components part for a while I dont know whats decent for the prices nowadays.

He has a budget of £800 to play about with.

He has a monitor, speakers, SSD, Windows 10, keyboard and mouse.

He only needs the following:

Case
Motherboard
Graphics Card
Processor + Cooling
RAM
HDD

Was hoping you guys would come up with some suggestions that will keep him good in PC gaming for a while.

I myself mainly shop at Overclockers for parts but I'm happy to look around if the prices are better.

 

[LilJoka]

Hi guys,
I've been asked to build a decent gaming rig for my friend, but as I've been out of the components part for a while I dont know whats decent for the prices nowadays.

He has a budget of £800 to play about with.

He has a monitor, speakers, SSD, Windows 10, keyboard and mouse.

He only needs the following:

Case
Motherboard
Graphics Card
Processor + Cooling
RAM
HDD

Was hoping you guys would come up with some suggestions that will keep him good in PC gaming for a while.

I myself mainly shop at Overclockers for parts but I'm happy to look around if the prices are better.

She/He has a PSU? Which one?
What types of games does your friend want to play?

And youll likely want to wait for the GTX 1070.

 

[DjRalford]

Found my sweet spot for the nano, any higher on power or core speed it throttles regularly and becomes very loud constantly.

1040mhz core
+40 power.
83c temp target
90% target fan speed

Max temp seen in gpu mark was 80c, but it still held 1040mhz at 90% fan speed.


Rest of system
4790k @ 4.4ghz
16gb ddr3


4K tests
3D Mark, Firestrike Ultra, 3786 (stock run was 3376)
GTA V, Very high, ultra reflections, 30hz vsync, 50% extended distance + high res streaming when flying. 30fps locked.
Hitman, maximum settings, DX12, 30fps locked.
Tomb Raider, Ultimate preset, 30fps locked.

I can put up with the 30fps with the extra resolution, although there are certain games regardless I'll have to run at 1080p60 to stay sane.

 

[LilJoka]

Found my sweet spot for the nano, any higher on power or core speed it throttles regularly and becomes very loud constantly.

1040mhz core
+40 power.
83c temp target
90% target fan speed

Max temp seen in gpu mark was 80c, but it still held 1040mhz at 90% fan speed.


Rest of system
4790k @ 4.4ghz
16gb ddr3


4K tests
3D Mark, Firestrike Ultra, 3786 (stock run was 3376)
GTA V, Very high, ultra reflections, 30hz vsync, 50% extended distance + high res streaming when flying. 30fps locked.
Hitman, maximum settings, DX12, 30fps locked.
Tomb Raider, Ultimate preset, 30fps locked.

I can put up with the 30fps with the extra resolution, although there are certain games regardless I'll have to run at 1080p60 to stay sane.

Could you run a 3DMark Firestrike (default) with this system?

 

[DjRalford]

Could you run a 3DMark Firestrike (default) with this system?

Sure gimme 10 minutes

 

[Akai__]

Living in Germany and I do wonder if I should sell my Asus GTX780Ti Direct CU II for a GTX1080? How much can I even ask for it?

Also, wasn't keeping up with the thread lately, but does Smokey already plan a quad SLI configuration of 1080's?

 

[DjRalford]

Sure gimme 10 minutes

Score was 13,341

Average core speed 1037mhz
Max temp 66c
Max fan speed 3400rpm

Http://www.3dmark.com/fs/8407225


On my old hd7970 I got around 6,900