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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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markwaters

Neo Member
Hey everyone,

Sorry if this has been covered a lot already in this thread, but I wasn't sure how to search for it. I'm looking to build a low-mid range Skylake machine once the supply is back up, and I was wondering if there was a consensus about which Z170 board in the $130USD or less range is the best bang for the buck? I won't be doing any aggressive overclocking, so I'm just looking for something on the cheaper end to get me started.

Also, what should I be looking for in terms of DDR4 speeds? 2666 seems like the best value, but is there any significant benefit to buying 3000/3200 or higher? I'll likely be getting 16GB (2x8GB for dual channel) unless there's a reason not to.

Thanks in advance!
 

Credo

Member
Have any of you ever had a problem with a Norton Antivirus quick scan causing your PC to BSOD?

I built a new PC less than a week ago, and everything was going well I thought.....until I installed Norton and ran a quick scan. The blue screen says something about an uncorrectable hardware error and then reboots. I can trigger the BSOD by using a Norton quick scan almost every time. For some reason, it *very* rarely goes through and works, but it's BSOD'd the last 5 times I tried. However, using a Malwarebytes quick scan or a Windows Security Essentials quick scan *never* causes any issue.

I checked the device manager to make sure all my drivers were updated, and they were. Then, I ran Prime95 overnight to stress the machine, but it came back with 0 warnings and 0 errors, a 100% success. Then I ran Memtest for a few passes to further test the memory, and it also had 0 errors, so I'm beginning to wonder about the hardware error part and thinking it might somehow all be tied to Norton, which is bizarre to me since I've had Norton for 10 years on multiple machines and have never had a problem. I installed BlueScreenView and looked at the 16 BSODs, and every one of them have the cause listed as "caused by driver: hal.dll" & "caused by address: hal.dll+12a3b". All of the crash addresses are listed as ntoskrnl.exe+735c0.

The machine seems to work alright as long as Norton is turned off, but that's only been for 1-2 days since it's a new PC. I'd like to just not worry about it since it seems like the solution is to not use Norton, but I hate not knowing the cause of a problem that might rear its head in the future. Does anyone have any ideas?

Edit: I just ran the Norton Removal and Reinstallation tool, and after reinstalling, the moment the Norton window said, "Communicating with server," the screen went blue. I'm really baffled by all this.
 
I'm awful at working out bottlenecks but trying to work out a plan for my next build and what needs to be swapped. Since Pascal isn't here yet I guess we can't really have any idea just how it will perform so lets pretend I'm buying a 6gb 980 instead. I'm running an i7 2600k and only 8gb of 1866mhz ram through and old asus P8P67 (pro I think).

Now I'm pretty certain that ram is going to be a limitation fairly soon if it isn't already holding me back, but would my processor or maybe even mobo (I suck with how mobos actually work) perhaps be a limiting factor with a 980? If they aren't is there much headroom left?

I REALLY don't trust myself to overclock so my processors are always running stock and I'd rather just upgrade than risk frying my CPU.
 

RGM79

Member
Hey everyone,

Sorry if this has been covered a lot already in this thread, but I wasn't sure how to search for it. I'm looking to build a low-mid range Skylake machine once the supply is back up, and I was wondering if there was a consensus about which Z170 board in the $130USD or less range is the best bang for the buck? I won't be doing any aggressive overclocking, so I'm just looking for something on the cheaper end to get me started.

Also, what should I be looking for in terms of DDR4 speeds? 2666 seems like the best value, but is there any significant benefit to buying 3000/3200 or higher? I'll likely be getting 16GB (2x8GB for dual channel) unless there's a reason not to.

Thanks in advance!

Does it specifically have to be under $130 USD? I like the Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI for the feature set but it's $140. For cheaper motherboards, there's the MSI Z170A PC MATE which features USB 3.1 and the Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P which has USB 3.1 and USB type C.

DDR4 speeds aren't shown to have much of a difference in most games due to the fact that not a lot of games are bottlenecked by RAM in the first place. In certain situations higher speed DDR4 can be a benefit, just not a very large one. Still, I don't think that means you should opt for the lowest end 2133/2400MHz RAM. Yes, I think 2666MHz is a safe bet. Sometimes even 2800MHz can be found at a low price. As long as it's not unreasonably more expensive, I think higher speed RAM is OK to buy.

What will you be using the PC for? It wouldn't hurt to have 16GB of RAM, but the majority of users will get by fine on 8GB according to this Techspot article.

so for a good enough gaming PC you need $500 right ? but a great gaming pc is around $800 ?
Depends. What do you want to do on the PC? What games do you want to play? What settings do you want to play at?

Have any of you ever had a problem with a Norton Antivirus quick scan causing your PC to BSOD?

I built a new PC less than a week ago, and everything was going well I thought.....until I installed Norton and ran a quick scan. The blue screen says something about an uncorrectable hardware error and then reboots. I can trigger the BSOD by using a Norton quick scan almost every time. For some reason, it *very* rarely goes through and works, but it's BSOD'd the last 5 times I tried. However, using a Malwarebytes quick scan or a Windows Security Essentials quick scan *never* causes any issue.

I checked the device manager to make sure all my drivers were updated, and they were. Then, I ran Prime95 overnight to stress the machine, but it came back with 0 warnings and 0 errors, a 100% success. Then I ran Memtest for a few passes to further test the memory, and it also had 0 errors, so I'm beginning to wonder about the hardware error part and thinking it might somehow all be tied to Norton, which is bizarre to me since I've had Norton for 10 years on multiple machines and have never had a problem. I installed BlueScreenView and looked at the 16 BSODs, and every one of them have the cause listed as "caused by driver: hal.dll" & "caused by address: hal.dll+12a3b". All of the crash addresses are listed as ntoskrnl.exe+735c0.

The machine seems to work alright as long as Norton is turned off, but that's only been for 1-2 days since it's a new PC. I'd like to just not worry about it since it seems like the solution is to not use Norton, but I hate not knowing the cause of a problem that might rear its head in the future. Does anyone have any ideas?

Edit: I just ran the Norton Removal and Reinstallation tool, and after reinstalling, the moment the Norton window said, "Communicating with server," the screen went blue. I'm really baffled by all this.

Seems like quite a few people have had the same issue with Norton. Some say it's the RAM, others say driver issues. Personally I'd just use something other than Norton, it might just be buggy that way for certain specific hardware configurations.

I'm awful at working out bottlenecks but trying to work out a plan for my next build and what needs to be swapped. Since Pascal isn't here yet I guess we can't really have any idea just how it will perform so lets pretend I'm buying a 6gb 980 instead. I'm running an i7 2600k and only 8gb of 1866mhz ram through and old asus P8P67 (pro I think).

Now I'm pretty certain that ram is going to be a limitation fairly soon if it isn't already holding me back, but would my processor or maybe even mobo (I suck with how mobos actually work) perhaps be a limiting factor with a 980? If they aren't is there much headroom left?

I REALLY don't trust myself to overclock so my processors are always running stock and I'd rather just upgrade than risk frying my CPU.

Your RAM's not a limitation in any way. No game currently requires more than 8GB and very few games are limited by RAM speed.

Your processor is still alright, but if you are unwilling to overclock, then you could consider a new CPU and motherboard. The motherboard won't really factor into CPU performance unless you're overclocking.

There isn't so much "how much headroom remains", it's more about what you use your PC for and what programs you're running. Some games don't require a strong CPU, while others can stress the hell out of it. For example, the Witcher 3 will run just fine on even mid-range processors from 4~5 years ago according to Techspot, and according to Eurogamer even the Pentium G3258 can maintain over 60FPS. On the other hand a game like GTAV will strain the CPU more and lower end processors can struggle in certain areas of the game according to Eurogamer and Techspot again.

That's not to say you don't get more of a benefit out of higher end processors. Stronger processors can keep the bottom line higher - fewer and smaller framerate drops when the action gets intense.

In any case, your 2600K is still decent and should still be able to hit 60FPS for a few years from now, but if you're not willing to overclock then it'll feel less capable sooner.
 

Mohasus

Member
GAF, I think my GPU just died.

A few hours ago I was watching a vídeo when suddenly the PC froze, a few seconds later a notification about the nvidia driver recovering appears on my desktop.

And a few minutes ago it started happening non-stop, some artifacts/lines appeared, the PC rebooted a few times but couldn't start windows. Turning it off and on made it to the desktop but the problem happened again.

The GPU is dead, right? I removed it and I'm using the onboard now.
 
GAF, I think my GPU just died.

A few hours ago I was watching a vídeo when suddenly the PC froze, a few seconds later a notification about the nvidia driver recovering appears on my desktop.

And a few minutes ago it started happening non-stop, some artifacts/lines appeared, the PC rebooted a few times but couldn't start windows. Turning it off and on made it to the desktop but the problem happened again.

The GPU is dead, right? I removed it and I'm using the onboard now.

If there is another PCIe slot you may as well try it in there. Otherwise it doesn't sound too good.
 

crpav

Member
I am near complete on deciding on what parts for my new build:

CPU - Intel Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core 4.0 GHz LGA 1151 95W BX80662I76700K
Mainboard - ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO LGA 1151 Intel Z170
Memory - G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)
GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX 970 04G-P4-2978-KR 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5
SSD - Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
Power Supply - EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 80+ GOLD, 850W
Cooling - CORSAIR Hydro Series H60
Media drive - LG Black Blu-ray Burner SATA WH16NS40
Keyboard - Logitech G910 Orion Spark RGB Mechanical
 
I don't even have a monitor hooked up at this point. Didn't think it would matter since its literally on for like 3 seconds before shutting off. I don't hear a beep when I turn it on either.

When I get home, I'll hook up a monitor and see if I can see anything on the screen.

Definitely hook it up to a monitor. It sounds like it's working fine to be honest, you have to hit DEL to go into BIOS or it's just going to hang/shut off with no formatted drives.

I have the same mobo--the boot LED stayed red until I had an installation to boot from. And the board doesn't do POST beeps either, just the LEDs.
 

The Boat

Member
OK folks, what do you think of these specs for a 1080p gaming PC?


CPU: Intel Core i5-6600k
Cooler: Cryorig H5 Ultimate
Motherboard: Asus Z170-P
Memory: G.Skill Kill 3000 MHz 2x4 GB
SSD: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
GPU: MSI GTX 970 Armor OC
Case: Zalman R1 Black (sort of a random choice based on looks, so I'll just reserve €100 for the case)
PSU: Seasonic S12II 620W

Total: €1155.30


I can stretch the budget up a little, but not by much, Portuguese prices suck. Any recommendations and comments? I don't really know the best brands and versions of mobos and GFX and whatnot. A silent PC as possible without sacrificing performance would be cool. I really need help, need to get a PC asap.
Anyone? Please?
 

Clydefrog

Member
Definitely hook it up to a monitor. It sounds like it's working fine to be honest, you have to hit DEL to go into BIOS or it's just going to hang/shut off with no formatted drives.

I have the same mobo--the boot LED stayed red until I had an installation to boot from. And the board doesn't do POST beeps either, just the LEDs.

Oooh! Joe getting my hopes up. Can't wait to go home now!

Also, I got a good laugh at your post a few pages back about your build and asking if there were any good games that came out since 2011 ;)
 

RGM79

Member
Anyone? Please?

Looks alright to me. I don't know how much more it'd cost, but if you really want silence then look for a different GTX 970 such as the MSI Gaming 4G, EVGA ACX2.0+, or Asus Strix. Those models have silent fan modes, the MSI Armor OC does not.

As for the case, look for Nanoxia or Fractal Design Define series cases.

Do you have any links to Portuguese retailers? I wouldn't mind taking a look.
 
Looks like my 2010 rig has finally bit the dust. I tried powering it on and nothing happens. Somethings I'll get a tiny flicker on the power light, but other than that, nothing. I have a feeling it's the power supply, but it could also be the motherboard. I reset the CMOS and same issue. Also tried replacing the power cable, nothing. Is there anything else I should try before I disassemble the entire thing? I'm due for a complete overhaul but I'd like to know what's worth salvaging.
 

RGM79

Member
Looks like my 2010 rig has finally bit the dust. I tried powering it on and nothing happens. Somethings I'll get a tiny flicker on the power light, but other than that, nothing. I have a feeling it's the power supply, but it could also be the motherboard. I reset the CMOS and same issue. Also tried replacing the power cable, nothing. Is there anything else I should try before I disassemble the entire thing? I'm due for a complete overhaul but I'd like to know what's worth salvaging.

If you really want to try, you could put in a different power supply. To see if the current PSU is faulty or not, try the paper clip test on it. Otherwise, the storage drives, fans, case, and maybe the RAM would be the only parts to salvage. The rest would be broken or obsolete.
 
Well I picked up the Phanteks PH-TC14PE in orange over the D15 mainly because with cashback I get it for £45 which is a bit of a bargain it seems. Could have gotten the D15 for £53 but I think the Phanteks will do just fine for cheaper and in a nicer colour.
 

crpav

Member
I am near complete on deciding on what parts for my new build:

CPU - Intel Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core 4.0 GHz LGA 1151 95W BX80662I76700K
Mainboard - ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO LGA 1151 Intel Z170
Memory - G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)
GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX 970 04G-P4-2978-KR 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5
SSD - Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
Power Supply - EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 80+ GOLD, 850W
Cooling - CORSAIR Hydro Series H60
Media drive - LG Black Blu-ray Burner SATA WH16NS40
Keyboard - Logitech G910 Orion Spark RGB Mechanical

Well I ordered it all. Wife might not be so happy with the total over $2000
 
Gaf,

I just got the ok from the wifey to get a new computer cause my old Asus ROG laptop is on it's last leg. I've added most of the parts I think I need for my purpose. Primary use is going to be computing and gaming on my 4k tv, hence why I didn't add a monitor.

Before I pull the trigger can anyone give me some feedback. It's been a while since I built my own computer but I am pretty tech incline. Any pointers/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Edit: I just realized I don't have a keyboard and mouse. Any suggestions on a wireless keyboard and mouse that is good for gaming?

rBVj9Qn.jpg
 
Gaf,

I just got the ok from the wifey to get a new computer cause my old Asus ROG laptop is on it's last leg. I've added most of the parts I think I need for my purpose. Primary use is going to be computing and gaming on my 4k tv, hence why I didn't add a monitor.

Before I pull the trigger can anyone give me some feedback. It's been a while since I built my own computer but I am pretty tech incline. Any pointers/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[IMG ]http://i.imgur.com/rBVj9Qn.jpg[/IMG]

G. Skill just released new ddr4 ram and you can get 16GB at 3200 for a bit cheaper than the Corsair Vengeance you have listed

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-231-929

edit: for a great and discrete looking mouse I would recommend Steelseries Sensei RAW or Rival
 

LilJoka

Member
Gaf,

I just got the ok from the wifey to get a new computer cause my old Asus ROG laptop is on it's last leg. I've added most of the parts I think I need for my purpose. Primary use is going to be computing and gaming on my 4k tv, hence why I didn't add a monitor.

Before I pull the trigger can anyone give me some feedback. It's been a while since I built my own computer but I am pretty tech incline. Any pointers/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Edit: I just realized I don't have a keyboard and mouse. Any suggestions on a wireless keyboard and mouse that is good for gaming?

http://i.imgur.com/rBVj9Qn.jIMG][/QUOTE]

Corsair pre applied paste will be better than MX4. Only need MX4 if you plan to remount.
 

awake

Member
Hello people of GAF, I wanted to build a new PC with an Intel Core i5 processor. Should I go for a 6600K (I don't really intend to overclock but since I'd have a K-model I'd reconsider) or should I just go for the 4XXX(K)-models? What's the big difference between the 6XXX and 4XXX series?
 

RGM79

Member
Hello people of GAF, I wanted to build a new PC with an Intel Core i5 processor. Should I go for a 6600K (I don't really intend to overclock but since I'd have a K-model I'd reconsider) or should I just go for the 4XXX(K)-models? What's the big difference between the 6XXX and 4XXX series?

Performance-wise there's not a lot to separate them, the i5 6600K is newer and somewhat better.

Tech-wise the i5 4690K goes with Z97 motherboards and DDR3 RAM and the i5 6600K goes with the newer Z170 motherboards which support the newer DDR4 RAM. At a certain price point, Z170 motherboards also tend to come with USB 3.1 and USB type C as standard feature which most Z97 motherboards do not have.

Also, DDR4 is a bit more expensive than DDR3, it is newer and not quite as widespread as DDR3 of course.

Edit: Vulcano's assistant is right, M.2 ports are also more common on Z170 motherboards. And to add on top of that, Z170 motherboards have additional new connections like SATA Express (nice to have but not really useful..)
 

awake

Member
Thanks for answering! Speaking of performance - is DDR4 worth it? I didn't even know that DDR4 is availible yet to be honest. Should I go for a newer Board with USB C/DDR4 RAM or do you think there will be better versions of current stuff in a few months since it's basically all new and can be improved in some ways?
 
If you really want to try, you could put in a different power supply. To see if the current PSU is faulty or not, try the paper clip test on it. Otherwise, the storage drives, fans, case, and maybe the RAM would be the only parts to salvage. The rest would be broken or obsolete.

I tried the paperclip test and the psu seemed to spin up. I also tried the power switch test and got nothing. I'm thinking it may be my motherboard.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks for answering! Speaking of performance - is DDR4 worth it? I didn't even know that DDR4 is availible yet to be honest. Should I go for a newer Board with USB C/DDR4 RAM or do you think there will be better versions of current stuff in a few months since it's basically all new and can be improved in some ways?

Like I said above in an earlier post, DDR4 doesn't present that much of an advantage over DDR3.. yet?

As for whether you should wait for better versions of current stuff, it'll be more than a few months I think, so it's more or less safe to buy now unless you prefer to wait. Although things are new, there's not a lot that will change in just a few months. Any changes that will happen will take over a much longer period of time like half a year or longer to come out.

There aren't any cases with frontal USB 3.1 and type C ports and there won't be a for a long while because they haven't decided what kind of motherboard pin connector they want to use. They need to develop native support and standards before that happens. In the meantime Asus and Asrock have front panel adapters that go in the 5.25" optical bays to provide frontal USB 3.1 and type C ports [1][2][3].

M.2 devices and ports are fairly mature and reliable to use in the sense that we don't expect them to change anytime soon, and there's nothing really wrong with them. Similar standards like U.2 are being developed but M.2 as it is, is here to stay.

SATA Express while nice in concept never really took off. Motherboards still include them and there are a few things that can connect to them, but devices that actually use SATA express are fairly rare, everyone making SSDs decided to go with other standards like M.2. Nothing's changing there except that maybe motherboard manufacturers might not include as many or at all in the future.
 
How outdated am I? And should I just wait for BF / Holidays for any potential specials to upgrade?

Current Setup:

1. Coolermaster RC-690-KKN Mid Tower PC Case
2. Gigabyte GA-MA790XT-UD4P AM3 DDR3 AMD 790X MOTHERBOARD
3. GSKILL 4GB DDR3 RAM 2X2GB
4. AMD PHENOM II X4 955 QUAD CORE 3.2GHZ
5. SAPPHIRE VAPOR-X 4890 1GB 256 GDDR5 PCI EXPRESS
6. CORSAIR 550W CROSSFIRE READY POWER UNIT

I do want to be VR ready... just not sure what to scrap what to keep etc.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Is anyone else using a Logitech mouse on Windows 10? After you first log in, does it take about six seconds for Logitech Gaming Software to load your settings so that your mouse DPI settings take effect?
 

RGM79

Member
Is anyone else using a Logitech mouse on Windows 10? After you first log in, does it take about six seconds for Logitech Gaming Software to load your settings so that your mouse DPI settings take effect?
Depends on the mouse. I use a Logitech G402 with Windows 10 and settings are stored on the mouse and don't require software.

How outdated am I? And should I just wait for BF / Holidays for any potential specials to upgrade?

Current Setup:

1. Coolermaster RC-690-KKN Mid Tower PC Case
2. Gigabyte GA-MA790XT-UD4P AM3 DDR3 AMD 790X MOTHERBOARD
3. GSKILL 4GB DDR3 RAM 2X2GB
4. AMD PHENOM II X4 955 QUAD CORE 3.2GHZ
5. SAPPHIRE VAPOR-X 4890 1GB 256 GDDR5 PCI EXPRESS
6. CORSAIR 550W CROSSFIRE READY POWER UNIT

I do want to be VR ready... just not sure what to scrap what to keep etc.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
You can keep the hard drives and the case and maybe the power supply.

The thing about VR is that the more CPU and GPU power you have, the better. The weaker your PC is, the lower the settings you'll have to set to maintain a good framerate.
 
Finally, it's all here. I will build my new baby tomorrow after a good night's sleep.

Here is the final build

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-DELUXE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Classified ACX 2.0+ Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic Platinum 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $0.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-29 19:50 EDT-0400
 

The Boat

Member
Looks alright to me. I don't know how much more it'd cost, but if you really want silence then look for a different GTX 970 such as the MSI Gaming 4G, EVGA ACX2.0+, or Asus Strix. Those models have silent fan modes, the MSI Armor OC does not.

As for the case, look for Nanoxia or Fractal Design Define series cases.

Do you have any links to Portuguese retailers? I wouldn't mind taking a look.
Thanks! I'm probably buying here: http://www.globaldata.pt
 
Not sure if this is the thread for what I have in mind, but I don't feel the question was worthy of its own thread.

I just bought a white DualShock 4 for PC uses and I was wondering where a guy could get a great deal on a cable for it. Something 6 to 8 feet(I would prefer 8)would be great.
 

Mystic654

Member
I need to grab some lighting for my new Case(Case-Labs S8S). Anyone here use DarkSide Rigid RGB lighting? Is it any good or is their something better to get?

I tired Icemodz (Never again will I use them, they lied their asses off)
 

Ferrio

Banned
So I spur of the moment said fuck it and start speccing a new computer. I was trying to hold off long as possible until VR hit consumer level, but my current one is just pissing me off too much. I also don't think much will change on the landscape between now and say march.

Anyways, anyone mind sanity checking my build? Especially the memory. I haven't done this in 4 years lol.

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=25164331

I should be good on drives.
 

Shaneus

Member
R9 280s (particularly the 280x) seem like they're going for quite cheap here in Australia second-hand. They're still pretty nifty, I assume? Upgrading from 5950/5970CFX setup, i5-2500K.

As long as it gets similar performance to my current setup I'd be happy, but if it can handle 1440P (downsampled to 1080P) at highish quality settings I'll be happy. Don't play anything too intensive, heaviest right now probably being Dirt Rally and Assetto Corsa.
 
Any love/hate for the Corsair Spec-01? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=corsair_spec_01-_-11-139-041-_-Product

Since I got that Antec One case that doesn't fit my graphics card this seemed like a cheap option and it says it fits large cards. Seems like a good option for longer cards at least. Any other reasons I should consider something else? I'll likely end up disconnecting the LEDs or whatever since I really don't need/want a fancy case but the price is right.
 

xkramz

Member
so just got my first gaming mouse...what now? its way more responsive ..but all these extra buttons im not sure if ill ever use them...
 
I hope it is not too much off topic. This morning i touched the USB port on the front panel of the case and i took a shock (or spark, i don't know how to say it), like the one you get when you stroke your hands on a woolen cloth. I tried 5 mins later and i took it again. Is it somehow normal or is it a tension issue?
 

REMAINSILLY

Member
I hope one of you guys can answer this. I can't find any info from Google.

I recently acquired the Black Ops 2 Turtle Beach Earforce X-Ray headset, but it didn't come with the original charger. I see that it's a mini USB, on the headset to charge, but when I plug it up to charge the red light stays on for several seconds then turns off. It doesn't charge. So, do I need the OFFICIAL charger, or is there something wrong with the charging outlet? It looks fine to me.
 
So I noticed in HWmonitor that my 12v line is peaking a little high under load.

e6qVAfj.png


Is this great cause for concern? Or could HWmonitor be wrong? I'm just wondering if I need to run out and grab a voltmeter before I do anything else.
 

LordAlu

Member
Any love/hate for the Corsair Spec-01? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=corsair_spec_01-_-11-139-041-_-Product

Since I got that Antec One case that doesn't fit my graphics card this seemed like a cheap option and it says it fits large cards. Seems like a good option for longer cards at least. Any other reasons I should consider something else? I'll likely end up disconnecting the LEDs or whatever since I really don't need/want a fancy case but the price is right.
It's a decent case for the price, we use quite a lot of them and our System Build guys never have a problem with them (and trust me, if they have a problem with a case boy do they let us know) :D
 

Ferrio

Banned
So I spur of the moment said fuck it and start speccing a new computer. I was trying to hold off long as possible until VR hit consumer level, but my current one is just pissing me off too much. I also don't think much will change on the landscape between now and say march.

Anyways, anyone mind sanity checking my build? Especially the memory. I haven't done this in 4 years lol.

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=25164331

I should be good on drives.

Update, I changed a few things around and pulled the trigger. Didn't even do much research so I hope I don't get burned. I really didn't think I'd be spending 2k today. Long time coming though, maybe my first machine in a decade that's remotely cutting edge.
 

MGrant

Member
what's the cheapest PC i could get to be able to run Dolphin at max setting?

1080p? It depends on where you live and what you mean by max settings. You'll want an i5 or equivalent AMD chip running at at least 3.5 GHz, a GPU comparable to a 750Ti or an r9 270, and around 8 GB of RAM. That should get you full HD with some added niceties like downsampling.
 

ZiZ

Member
I was finally able to get an i7-6700k.

I haven't built a PC in a while, so if someone would be so kind and check my build?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($350.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($30.74 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($163.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB FTW ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($669.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($97.66 @ Amazon)
Total: $1652.36

I'm not sure if I should get the:
Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
or the
Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard

or if I should replace the
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory x2
with
G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory x2

not sure what GTX 980 Ti to get either, the FTW seems very good though.
and if I were to go for a GTX 970 which one would you suggest?

any advice and suggestions would be very appreciated.
 

KurtFehl

Member

Staab

Member
Decided to upgrade my CPU...
The G3258 was starting to bottleneck too much on recent games, so I just ordered a i7 4790k with a CM Hyper 212 EVO cooler.
Didn't really want to go for the Haswell-E or Skylake yet, since I wanted to keep my motherboard/ram and went for the best 1150 socket CPU available !

Does the CM Hyper 212 EVO come with pre-applied thermalpaste or a little syringe ?
 
Decided to upgrade my CPU...
The G3258 was starting to bottleneck too much on recent games, so I just ordered a i7 4790k with a CM Hyper 212 EVO cooler.
Didn't really want to go for the Haswell-E or Skylake yet, since I wanted to keep my motherboard/ram and went for the best 1150 socket CPU available !

Does the CM Hyper 212 EVO come with pre-applied thermalpaste or a little syringe ?

It does come with a tube, not pre-applied though.
 
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