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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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markwaters

Neo Member
Does it specifically have to be under $130 USD? I like the Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI for the feature set but it's $140. For cheaper motherboards, there's the MSI Z170A PC MATE which features USB 3.1 and the Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P which has USB 3.1 and USB type C.

DDR4 speeds aren't shown to have much of a difference in most games due to the fact that not a lot of games are bottlenecked by RAM in the first place. In certain situations higher speed DDR4 can be a benefit, just not a very large one. Still, I don't think that means you should opt for the lowest end 2133/2400MHz RAM. Yes, I think 2666MHz is a safe bet. Sometimes even 2800MHz can be found at a low price. As long as it's not unreasonably more expensive, I think higher speed RAM is OK to buy.

What will you be using the PC for? It wouldn't hurt to have 16GB of RAM, but the majority of users will get by fine on 8GB according to this Techspot article.

I think my budget is probably closer to $150, but I was looking at the low end $115/$125 Z170 models simply because I don't need a lot of the features of the "Gaming" boards. More specifically, I don't want to and will never use SLI features. However, the board you suggested seems to have some other good stuff like USB 3.1c that seem pretty good! I also prefer Gigabyte in the first place, so I'll check it out. Thanks!

Edit: Whoops, I meant the Z170-HD3P. But the other ones don't look too shabby either.

I'll be using the machine for mostly just heavy gaming, possibly streaming, and maybe working from home (Office apps and email mostly), and media. 16GB seems like the way to go for me simply because it's not much cheaper to go 8GB. I noticed that there are some 3000/3200mhz sticks that G.skill just released that about the same price as the other speeds, so I guess I'll just wait for a good deal!
 
Componant knowledge: LOW

Alright smarties, I think I want to upgrade my GPU for our HTPC from last year. Though I'm not sure exactly what can I use,

Performance wise I can get games like TPP at 1280x720 with everything on and 60FPS OR playing arkham knight and everything is low (still looks amazing to me btw)with 30FPS. Wouldn't mind a bit of a boost however.

What's my best bet for ~$100?


GPU
Sapphire Radeon R7 260x

CPU
AMD A10-6800K 4.1GHz Quad-Core Processor

Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-F2A88X-D3H ATX FM2+ Motherboard

Memory
Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600

Case
Silverstone GD09B HTPC Case

Power Supply
Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
 
Was going to hold off on putting my PC back together until I got my heatsink but I really wanted it back so I just used a stock intel one (probably the biggest downgrade you can have from a custom loop). Thankfully there was no need to reinstall Windows which was my biggest worry.

It all works again thankfully and I must say this is a great board. The only issue I have is the absolutely moronic placement of the front panel audio connector which is just in front of the 8 channel audio on the rear I/O. I had to forgo it because it was too far and I just couldn't deal with having a cable running the length of the motherboard. It isn't too much of a problem but its just a stupid place to put it, should have switched it with a fan header.

In the mean time I can see I don't really have enough fan headers for my heatsink that is coming so I was thinking of investing in a fan controller of some sort but I don't know if the cables will reach. What are some good dual bay or single bay fan controllers? Otherwise I think i'll just buy a molex to multiple fan header cable.

Also my 390 is lovely but AMD's drivers just don't work all that well, at least the Gaming Evolved stuff. VSR is completely broken essentially, just gives me borders around my screen. I read that you can fiddle around with over scan and the like when you do it but as far as I am concerned that isn't a fix.

EDIT: I forgot it only comes with two fans, seems to have a splitter of sorts so I think I will be alright.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks! I'm probably buying here: http://www.globaldata.pt

How does this look? It's almost the exact same as your list except it is better suited for low noise, while only being a few Euros more. I think the MSI motherboard is somewhat better, as it includes USB 3.1 which the Asus model does not. It looks like the Asus has USB type C, though.

Not sure if this is the thread for what I have in mind, but I don't feel the question was worthy of its own thread.

I just bought a white DualShock 4 for PC uses and I was wondering where a guy could get a great deal on a cable for it. Something 6 to 8 feet(I would prefer 8)would be great.

I like Monoprice for cables. Is 10ft ok? It's less than $2, but I guess they might get you on the shipping costs.

R9 280s (particularly the 280x) seem like they're going for quite cheap here in Australia second-hand. They're still pretty nifty, I assume? Upgrading from 5950/5970CFX setup, i5-2500K.

As long as it gets similar performance to my current setup I'd be happy, but if it can handle 1440P (downsampled to 1080P) at highish quality settings I'll be happy. Don't play anything too intensive, heaviest right now probably being Dirt Rally and Assetto Corsa.

Sorry, did you mean to say you have a single 5970? or a 5850 paired with a 5870? Assuming you have the latter..

The 280X despite being an older design is still quite decent and should still be viable for a few years depending on your needs, but I'm not sure about 1440p downsampling. Can't say for them games themselves exactly, but it won't be a poor experience. This Ocaholic article seems to say that the R9 280X is pretty much twice as capable as a single 5870 and because users never get 2x performance with crossfire, an R9 280X would definitely be an upgrade to your current graphics card setup.

Have you considered looking for used R9 290 graphics cards? Those are even better, but of course I don't know how much they cost secondhand over there. I think it'd work out better if you wanted 1440p downsampling.
 

RGM79

Member
Any love/hate for the Corsair Spec-01? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=corsair_spec_01-_-11-139-041-_-Product

Since I got that Antec One case that doesn't fit my graphics card this seemed like a cheap option and it says it fits large cards. Seems like a good option for longer cards at least. Any other reasons I should consider something else? I'll likely end up disconnecting the LEDs or whatever since I really don't need/want a fancy case but the price is right.

You should not buy it. The Spec-01 is too small to fit the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo heatsink you have. The official specs say that case allows for coolers of up to 150mm, while the 212 Evo is 159mm tall, meaning it is just too narrow by 10mm to fit the heatsink. What's your budget for the case?

I hope one of you guys can answer this. I can't find any info from Google.

I recently acquired the Black Ops 2 Turtle Beach Earforce X-Ray headset, but it didn't come with the original charger. I see that it's a mini USB, on the headset to charge, but when I plug it up to charge the red light stays on for several seconds then turns off. It doesn't charge. So, do I need the OFFICIAL charger, or is there something wrong with the charging outlet? It looks fine to me.

The manual says it just comes with a (standard?) mini-USB cable. There's no charger. What cable or charger are you using? Try plugging it into your PC to charge?

I think my budget is probably closer to $150, but I was looking at the low end $115/$125 Z170 models simply because I don't need a lot of the features of the "Gaming" boards. More specifically, I don't want to and will never use SLI features. However, the board you suggested seems to have some other good stuff like USB 3.1c that seem pretty good! I also prefer Gigabyte in the first place, so I'll check it out. Thanks!

Edit: Whoops, I meant the Z170-HD3P. But the other ones don't look too shabby either.

I'll be using the machine for mostly just heavy gaming, possibly streaming, and maybe working from home (Office apps and email mostly), and media. 16GB seems like the way to go for me simply because it's not much cheaper to go 8GB. I noticed that there are some 3000/3200mhz sticks that G.skill just released that about the same price as the other speeds, so I guess I'll just wait for a good deal!

Alright then, sounds like you've got a plan. Good luck.

Componant knowledge: LOW

Alright smarties, I think I want to upgrade my GPU for our HTPC from last year. Though I'm not sure exactly what can I use, Performance wise I can get games like TPP at 1280x720 with everything on and 60FPS OR playing arkham knight and everything is low (still looks amazing to me btw)with 30FPS. Wouldn't mind a bit of a boost however. What's my best bet for ~$100?

GPU
Sapphire Radeon R7 260x

CPU
AMD A10-6800K 4.1GHz Quad-Core Processor

Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-F2A88X-D3H ATX FM2+ Motherboard

Memory
Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600

Case
Silverstone GD09B HTPC Case

Power Supply
Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply

If you want a brand new graphics card, you can get a GTX 750 Ti for about $100 or less after rebates and discounts at the cheapest.

Otherwise for best bang for your buck, look for a used graphics card? A used R9 270 or 270X might be available for that much.

Was going to hold off on putting my PC back together until I got my heatsink but I really wanted it back so I just used a stock intel one (probably the biggest downgrade you can have from a custom loop). Thankfully there was no need to reinstall Windows which was my biggest worry.

It all works again thankfully and I must say this is a great board. The only issue I have is the absolutely moronic placement of the front panel audio connector which is just in front of the 8 channel audio on the rear I/O. I had to forgo it because it was too far and I just couldn't deal with having a cable running the length of the motherboard. It isn't too much of a problem but its just a stupid place to put it, should have switched it with a fan header.

In the mean time I can see I don't really have enough fan headers for my heatsink that is coming so I was thinking of investing in a fan controller of some sort but I don't know if the cables will reach. What are some good dual bay or single bay fan controllers? Otherwise I think i'll just buy a molex to multiple fan header cable.

Also my 390 is lovely but AMD's drivers just don't work all that well, at least the Gaming Evolved stuff. VSR is completely broken essentially, just gives me borders around my screen. I read that you can fiddle around with over scan and the like when you do it but as far as I am concerned that isn't a fix.

Unfortunately a lot of motherboards place the front panel audio connector in that area. Seems to be extremely common.

You could get a fan controller, but the cheapest option would be to get a fan splitter Y cable for around $2 or more so you can plug more than one fan into the motherboard and still have the motherboard control it. if you want a fan controller so you can manually adjust it for noise levels or whatnot, that's fine as well.

Molex to fan header cable adapters also work, but you lose the ability to control fan speed.
 

dickroach

Member
1080p? It depends on where you live and what you mean by max settings. You'll want an i5 or equivalent AMD chip running at at least 3.5 GHz, a GPU comparable to a 750Ti or an r9 270, and around 8 GB of RAM. That should get you full HD with some added niceties like downsampling.
yeah, 1080p + 4x AA and all that sweet stuff.
I'm in the US. is something like this ($800 pc on newegg) the way to go, or would it be substantially cheaper to try and build a pc myself?
 
You should not buy it. The Spec-01 is too small to fit the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo heatsink you have. The official specs say that case allows for coolers of up to 150mm, while the 212 Evo is 159mm tall, meaning it is just too narrow by 10mm to fit the heatsink. What's your budget for the case?

No real set budget. But I'm just building a PC that I don't really intend others to look at or care what it looks like so it doesn't need to be fancy. Just the right size to fit everything and without airflow issues. So I'm up for suggestions but I'd prefer to not pay extra purely for aesthetics.
 
Unfortunately a lot of motherboards place the front panel audio connector in that area. Seems to be extremely common.

You could get a fan controller, but the cheapest option would be to get a fan splitter Y cable for around $2 or more so you can plug more than one fan into the motherboard and still have the motherboard control it. if you want a fan controller so you can manually adjust it for noise levels or whatnot, that's fine as well.

Molex to fan header cable adapters also work, but you lose the ability to control fan speed.

It seems the heatsink comes with a splitter thankfully, saves me a lot of hassle.
 

ACE 1991

Member
This isn't quite the right thread, but I figured I'd ask here. What is the best no-frills 1080p 42-inch TV I can get for the cheapest price? I want to use for my PS4 and PC pretty much exclusively. I'd like to spend $350 and under.
 

RGM79

Member
yeah, 1080p + 4x AA and all that sweet stuff.
I'm in the US. is something like this ($800 pc on newegg) the way to go, or would it be substantially cheaper to try and build a pc myself?

Substantially cheaper if you build it yourself. This parts list hits all the requirements for Dolphin while costing less, although I should note that it doesn't include Windows ($20 or $80 depending on whether you get a license from reddit or a retail copy) and no free keyboard and mouse.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($170.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($44.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Dark 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card ($202.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($24.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($26.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $550.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-30 13:11 EDT-0400

No real set budget. But I'm just building a PC that I don't really intend others to look at or care what it looks like so it doesn't need to be fancy. Just the right size to fit everything and without airflow issues. So I'm up for suggestions but I'd prefer to not pay extra purely for aesthetics.

Cases I'd recommend on a budget would be the Corsair 200R or 300R, the NZXT Source 210 Elite, and maybe some others depending on how far you'd justify paying for.
 

REMAINSILLY

Member
The manual says it just comes with a (standard?) mini-USB cable. There's no charger. What cable or charger are you using? Try plugging it into your PC to charge?

I've used two standard mini USB charging cables. I've connected them to my PC, a wall outlet, and even an external battery. It just charges for a few seconds then stops. I don't know, dude. It's frustrating.
 

kennah

Member
Heh, whoops. Broke my windows 10 install, and since my developer preview expires tomorrow anyway, I decided to just go back to windows 7.

Seems I deleted the text file that had my windows key in it, so now I have no OS (have a windows 8 key that I'm saving for my other computer)
 
Just thought I would throw this out there for people in the UK. If you are looking to buy some new PC parts or whatever you can use a thing called Bespoke offers. It is from Barclays and operates essentially like Flubit if you know what that is apart from a lot quicker. For example I found an MSI R9 390 for £260 odd then I put it into Bespoke offers and got it for £237. It arrived the next day and I am currently using it in this PC as I type this.

Essentially they give you exclusive prices on items that are usually quite a bit cheaper, sourced from their own merchants.

At the moment Quidco is doing a special 18% cashback on bespoke purchases so you stand to save quite a bit of cash. I bought a Phanteks heatsink the other day for essentially £47 whereas usually it is £70+.

Not all retailers are supported but some big ones are, Amazon for example and for more PC related stuff you can use eBuyer or Novatech.

Links for your own exploration:
Bespoke offers
Quidco cashback

It is worth noting though, whilst I haven't had problems with any items I have ordered (so far), it is possible you may get the wrong item or something, in this case before buying anything make sure to read how returns work before parting with your cash. Obviously that sort of warning may put many off but it seems to work rather well.
 

pax217

Member
Hi guys, a bit off from what we normally talk about, but my company is looking to build a PC for an interactive display in our office space.

Main Purpose
Run Google Earth at a 4K resolution on a 58in touchscreen (Planar EP 4K series).

Three questions
One, is an i5 4690K (3.5ghz), a GTX960 (2GB) and 8GB of DDR3 going to suffice to do this? I know 4K can be an intense resolution to run stuff at.

Two, the video connection needs to go through a wall. I wanted to do DisplayPort, but the 30ft cable required is probably too long for DisplayPort. Should I be considering an HDBaseT setup? Are there better options?

Three, the touch connection needs to go through the same wall. Is 30ft too long for USB to run w/o degradation?

As far as budget goes, nothing's set in stone, but I don't want to stray too far away from the price range I'm currently at with the i5 and GTX960...?

Thanks in advance for the insight and help.
 

ruttyboy

Member
Just thought I would throw this out there for people in the UK. If you are looking to buy some new PC parts or whatever you can use a thing called Bespoke offers. It is from Barclays and operates essentially like Flubit if you know what that is apart from a lot quicker. For example I found an MSI R9 390 for £260 odd then I put it into Bespoke offers and got it for £237. It arrived the next day and I am currently using it in this PC as I type this.

Essentially they give you exclusive prices on items that are usually quite a bit cheaper, sourced from their own merchants.

At the moment Quidco is doing a special 18% cashback on bespoke purchases so you stand to save quite a bit of cash. I bought a Phanteks heatsink the other day for essentially £47 whereas usually it is £70+.

Not all retailers are supported but some big ones are, Amazon for example and for more PC related stuff you can use eBuyer or Novatech.

Links for your own exploration:
Bespoke offers
Quidco cashback

It is worth noting though, whilst I haven't had problems with any items I have ordered (so far), it is possible you may get the wrong item or something, in this case before buying anything make sure to read how returns work before parting with your cash. Obviously that sort of warning may put many off but it seems to work rather well.

Thanks for this, how soon do they come back with an offer? It seems there's only 4 days left on the Quidco thing.

EDIT: I'm blind, it says on the same page, "usually within 24 hours, but it may take up to 48 hours"
 
Any of those three seem fine to me. I'll order the case a little later today. Any last suggestions or one you want to push above the others? I really have no preference otherwise.

Just head up that the NZXT is more about 7 and something inches wide than 8, and if you are planing on having a big heatsink with a 140mm fan like a Macho Rev. B or CRYORIG R1, it wont fit. (don't know about the other 2)
 

Ledsen

Member
I actually still have a i5-2500k clocked at 4,5GHz... how does it fare these days? Haven't used it for gaming since 2013. My graphics card is a 560Ti though, which I assume is trash nowadays?
 

Phatcorns

Member
Hey everyone, I'm curious, what's the consensus on the Good - Very Capable build in the OP as far as Virtual Reality capability? My brother wants a computer specifically for VR, and he wants a good one, but no need to go overboard. Just something that will handle VR is good enough for him.
 

kennah

Member
Hey everyone, I'm curious, what's the consensus on the Good - Very Capable build in the OP as far as Virtual Reality capability? My brother wants a computer specifically for VR, and he wants a good one, but no need to go overboard. Just something that will handle VR is good enough for him.
There's is no possible way of knowing for sure.
 
Thanks for this, how soon do they come back with an offer? It seems there's only 4 days left on the Quidco thing.

EDIT: I'm blind, it says on the same page, "usually within 24 hours, but it may take up to 48 hours"

Every time I have had one in a few hours at most so you should be fine. I thought it would take forever as I have used similar services before but was impressed when in under 5 hours I usually was given a quote.

EDIT: Looking at my emails I am getting a price after about 3 hours on average.
 

ruttyboy

Member
Every time I have had one in a few hours at most so you should be fine. I thought it would take forever as I have used similar services before but was impressed when in under 5 hours I usually was given a quote.

EDIT: Looking at my emails I am getting a price after about 3 hours on average.

Thanks. I've submitted a price search for my CPU, motherboard, RAM, SSD and PSU so we'll see :D

Slightly annoyed that the 6700k has jumped up by £20 since this morning and they don't accept links from Aria or Novatech, but hey if it works it will save me going on £180!
 

RGM79

Member
Any of those three seem fine to me. I'll order the case a little later today. Any last suggestions or one you want to push above the others? I really have no preference otherwise.

If you didn't have an optical drive, I'd recommend the Fractal Design Define S. There's the Define R4 for a bit more money, which is not as modular but does have optical drive bays. There's not a lot else that I'd recommend that isn't more expensive.

I've used two standard mini USB charging cables. I've connected them to my PC, a wall outlet, and even an external battery. It just charges for a few seconds then stops. I don't know, dude. It's frustrating.

Might be a bad battery then. That sucks.

Hi guys, a bit off from what we normally talk about, but my company is looking to build a PC for an interactive display in our office space.

Main Purpose
Run Google Earth at a 4K resolution on a 58in touchscreen (Planar EP 4K series).

Three questions
One, is an i5 4690K (3.5ghz), a GTX960 (2GB) and 8GB of DDR3 going to suffice to do this? I know 4K can be an intense resolution to run stuff at.

Two, the video connection needs to go through a wall. I wanted to do DisplayPort, but the 30ft cable required is probably too long for DisplayPort. Should I be considering an HDBaseT setup? Are there better options?

Three, the touch connection needs to go through the same wall. Is 30ft too long for USB to run w/o degradation?

As far as budget goes, nothing's set in stone, but I don't want to stray too far away from the price range I'm currently at with the i5 and GTX960...?

Thanks in advance for the insight and help.

Those specs should be more than good enough. However.. Is there a reason why the PC needs to be located 30 feet away?

Active USB extenders seem quite reliable and good going from Amazon reviews, like this 32 foot active USB cable ($14) with 4.4/5 stars after about 300 reviews.

The biggest issue I can see here is that the Planar display you plan to use will pretty much require displayport for 4K and 60Hz. You can use HDMI, but the 58" touchscreen Planar display only supports HDMI 1.4 according to the official spec sheet and that will only allow for either 4K @ 24Hz or 30Hz, I'm not sure which.

The thing is that most HDBaseT active display cable extenders out there seem to be for HDMI, not displayport. The few solutions for displayport are probably going to be quite costly, like this Extron model.

If there was some way to place the PC closer, that would be a lot less trouble in terms of cost and setup. Or you could opt for HDMI instead.

Just head up that the NZXT is more about 7 and something inches wide than 8, and if you are planing on having a big heatsink with a 140mm fan like a Macho Rev. B or CRYORIG R1 it may to fit. (don't know about the other 2)

I think his parts list had a CM 212 Evo on it. Not sure, though.

I actually still have a i5-2500k clocked at 4,5GHz... how does it fare these days? Haven't used it for gaming since 2013. My graphics card is a 560Ti though, which I assume is trash nowadays?

The 2500K is still decent especially when overclocked. You'll be able to hit 60FPS in most games easily at 1080p and probably even 1440p as long as you're not being held back by the GPU.

The 560 Ti is still midrange for now, but you could do with a graphics card upgrade if you wanted to play at higher settings. I actually just installed a 560 Ti in my work PC and I am able to play MGSV Phantom Pain nearly maxed out on high settings at 60FPS, but at 1280x1024.

Your setup isn't that bad at all, it'll just depend on what sort of games you want to play and at what settings.
 
Thanks. I've submitted a price search for my CPU, motherboard, RAM, SSD and PSU so we'll see :D

Slightly annoyed that the 6700k has jumped up by £20 since this morning and they don't accept links from Aria or Novatech, but hey if it works it will save me going on £180!

Oh sorry I thought Novatech worked. Good luck!
 

pax217

Member
Those specs should be more than good enough. However.. Is there a reason why the PC needs to be located 30 feet away?

Active USB extenders seem quite reliable and good going from Amazon reviews, like this 32 foot active USB cable ($14) with 4.4/5 stars after about 300 reviews.

The biggest issue I can see here is that the Planar display you plan to use will pretty much require displayport for 4K and 60Hz. You can use HDMI, but the 58" touchscreen Planar display only supports HDMI 1.4 according to the official spec sheet and that will only allow for either 4K @ 24Hz or 30Hz, I'm not sure which.

The thing is that most HDBaseT active display cable extenders out there seem to be for HDMI, not displayport. The few solutions for displayport are probably going to be quite costly, like this Extron model.

If there was some way to place the PC closer, that would be a lot less trouble in terms of cost and setup. Or you could opt for HDMI instead.

Hi RGM, thanks for the reply. Yeah, I looked at HDBaseT for DisplayPort and they were all pretty expensive. The computer is technically about 10 feet away, but in another room, and the cable needs to go up and over the 12ft wall and then back down to about 5ft above the floor (plus the straightline distance between the monitor and the computer).

I feel good about the bus-powered USB extender. Thanks for that.

I was really hoping to get the 60hz out of the DisplayPort, but if having a DP cable that long isn't an option, is 30hz from HDMI going to look bad on it? I plan on removing all the UI from the Google Earth interface, so won't have a ton of text on screen, but there will still be some.
 

Shawn128

Member
Any good, quiet 120mm fans anyone would recommend? I'm looking for fans for my two radiators. This will be a case with a window on the side, so I prefer decent looking ones as well. I was thinking of those quiet Corsair ones vs the EKWB Vardar fans unless someone has any strong opinions.
 

dickroach

Member
Substantially cheaper if you build it yourself. This parts list hits all the requirements for Dolphin while costing less, although I should note that it doesn't include Windows ($20 or $80 depending on whether you get a license from reddit or a retail copy) and no free keyboard and mouse.

word. thanks. I think I'll go this route. I've never built a pc, or even used one in a bunch of years, but this sounds like the way to go.
is it worth it to drop a few more bucks get a low-storage SSD instead of a 1TB 7200internal, and get an external?
 

The Boat

Member
How does this look? It's almost the exact same as your list except it is better suited for low noise, while only being a few Euros more. I think the MSI motherboard is somewhat better, as it includes USB 3.1 which the Asus model does not. It looks like the Asus has USB type C, though.
Fantastic, thank you very much!
One thing though, aren't 3000 MHz memories worth it?
EDIT: Also, is that 970 overclockable?
 
word. thanks. I think I'll go this route. I've never built a pc, or even used one in a bunch of years, but this sounds like the way to go.
is it worth it to drop a few more bucks get a low-storage SSD instead of a 1TB 7200internal, and get an external?

Even if you don't install games in it, you want your OS running on an ssd. A 256 GB and a regular 7200 1TB is a sweet spot. Also if you are having a small factor build that you want to have it external, remember that there are also 2.5" 7200rpm hard drives (basically laptop hard drives)
 

An1malhouse365

Neo Member
Finally ordered the last of my parts. Should be here tomorrow and I'll build my rig by this weekend. Super excited!!!
I want to thank all those who helped pick parts along the way and answered my many questions. This thread is a godsend. Went from never opening up a computer to now 3 separate builds in the pipeline.

So here's the situation. Have to put my htpc on hold for now. My sister needs a pc for school and using my new enthusiasm, I've convinced to let me build it instead of buying one of those all in one computers.

Trying to keep the budget as low possible. She only needs the basics for now. Surfing the web, Microsoft word etc. but I want to leave room to upgrade in the future when more cash frees up.
Also, I'd be ordering from Amazon as we have prime and need it before the weekend.
I have access to an I7 920 used from a local parts store for $60 and a G3258 new for $50. Worth it?? Also a 400w evga non modular power supply for $25.
If anyone can provide a parts list I can follow that'd be great. I can figure out the monitor/ accessories. And as per her request, "a really nice case. Not those dell looking ones." Lol
 

Shenmue

Banned
Need some advice.

I know the 750ti is super old now, but Fry's has it for $90 today. I think this card used to be considered fairly ok right?

What are some examples of what this would let me play? I have 32gb ram and a i7-4790k right now.

Or am I better off just saving up and buying one of the newer cards?
 
Was just experiencing coil whine from my PSU, then it stopped after plugging the PC directly into a wall socket instead of an extension socket. I'm guessing this likely means that the extension socket needs replacing. Is this a common occurrence?
 

RGM79

Member
Hi RGM, thanks for the reply. Yeah, I looked at HDBaseT for DisplayPort and they were all pretty expensive. The computer is technically about 10 feet away, but in another room, and the cable needs to go up and over the 12ft wall and then back down to about 5ft above the floor (plus the straightline distance between the monitor and the computer).

I feel good about the bus-powered USB extender. Thanks for that.

I was really hoping to get the 60hz out of the DisplayPort, but if having a DP cable that long isn't an option, is 30hz from HDMI going to look bad on it? I plan on removing all the UI from the Google Earth interface, so won't have a ton of text on screen, but there will still be some.

Framerate and refresh rate is more important for motion on screen than (static?) text. You can see examples here:

www.testufo.com/framerates
http://www.blurbusters.com/motion-tests/tools/

Honestly, I don't know how bad it'll look. It'll be somewhat choppier than a 60Hz display, but whether that's acceptable or not for Google Earth I wouldn't really know.

You can go with cheaper parts, but I don't know if that lowers the cost enough for you to include one of those displayport active extenders into your budget, but maybe it'd help.

How much do these displayport extenders cost? That example I looked at wouldn't tell me unless I registered and logged in. To be frank, you don't really need an i5 processor and a GTX 960. Google Earth has extremely light requirements and running a static 4K display isn't much of a problem even for say, an Pentium processor and onboard graphics. Running google Earth and its 3D effects is harder to say, though. The effects aren't that fancy, but the challenge of 4K is something that I honestly don't know much about.

Would you have a h100i over an h80i for any particular reason like OCing/multi GPUs etc?

The H100i is a bit more capable than the H80i at cooling, which is good for overclocking. I'm not sure what they would have to do with multiple GPUs, though. Unless you were thinking of using it with a bracket to cool the graphics card?

word. thanks. I think I'll go this route. I've never built a pc, or even used one in a bunch of years, but this sounds like the way to go.
is it worth it to drop a few more bucks get a low-storage SSD instead of a 1TB 7200internal, and get an external?

A SSD will make things load very quickly and Windows will feel very snappy, but it won't have much of an affect on gaming performance like framerate and graphics quality. It's strictly just for faster storage. If you can get one, it would be very nice to have, but it's optional as a better quality of life thing.

You can have an SSD and internal hard drive in the PC alongside each other. They'll just show up separately in Windows. A good SSD would be the Crucial BX100 250GB model for $79.

Fantastic, thank you very much!
One thing though, aren't 3000 MHz memories worth it?
EDIT: Also, is that 970 overclockable?

The 2666MHz RAM is a bit of a cost-saving move, tests with DDR4 RAM have not really shown it to be a bottleneck for gaming but there are a few benefits elsewhere. Games don't rely too much on system RAM speed anyway, as graphics RAM matters more. Yes, the GTX 970 is overclockable.

Finally ordered the last of my parts. Should be here tomorrow and I'll build my rig by this weekend. Super excited!!!
I want to thank all those who helped pick parts along the way and answered my many questions. This thread is a godsend. Went from never opening up a computer to now 3 separate builds in the pipeline.

So here's the situation. Have to put my htpc on hold for now. My sister needs a pc for school and using my new enthusiasm, I've convinced to let me build it instead of buying one of those all in one computers.

Trying to keep the budget as low possible. She only needs the basics for now. Surfing the web, Microsoft word etc. but I want to leave room to upgrade in the future when more cash frees up.
Also, I'd be ordering from Amazon as we have prime and need it before the weekend.
I have access to an I7 920 used from a local parts store for $60 and a G3258 new for $50. Worth it?? Also a 400w evga non modular power supply for $25.
If anyone can provide a parts list I can follow that'd be great. I can figure out the monitor/ accessories. And as per her request, "a really nice case. Not those dell looking ones." Lol

Does the i7 920 come with a motherboard? While the i7 920 is a more capable than the Pentium G3258, it's also older and won't take any newer upgrades. Any motherboard it'd come with now would probably be used as well, and given how old those are, there's bound to be some wear and an increasing chance of failure as time goes on.

If you don't mind mail in rebates, there are higher wattage and better power supplies for just a few dollars more that will better support future upgrades since 400 watts isn't a lot. For example, there's this XFX 550 watt PSU for $27 after rebate which received a very high score from Jonny Guru's PSU review website. There's also this EVGA 500 watt PSU for $30 after rebate. Here's my recommendation:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($44.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Dark 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy M Midnight MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($26.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $279.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-30 16:39 EDT-0400

In the future you will be able to drop a decent processor like an i5 or i7 and it'll work just swimmingly. I don't know about what sort of case she might want, so I just picked the Bitfenix Prodigy M. Of course if a different case is preferred, we can work with that.

Need some advice.

I know the 750ti is super old now, but Fry's has it for $90 today. I think this card used to be considered fairly ok right?

What are some examples of what this would let me play? I have 32gb ram and a i7-4790k right now.

Or am I better off just saving up and buying one of the newer cards?

It's still good. I don't know what sort of games you want to play and at what resolution and setting, but with a 750 Ti, you might just want to lower settings if you want to hit 60FPS. Otherwise if you're fine with 30FPS, keep the graphics settings a little higher.

Eurogamer has some handy benchmarks for the Witcher 3 and GTAV that include the GTX 750 Ti and i7 4790K. The results are actually very good. Eurogamer doesn't specifically target medium or high or ultra preset graphics quality settings when they do these tests, they aim for "console quality" and show how well PC hardware can do at roughly equivalent quality settings.

Optionally, look for some used graphics cards if your budget is low. Or just save up and wait if you want higher quality settings and/or better framerate.
 

Alexm92

Member
Fantastic, thank you very much!
One thing though, aren't 3000 MHz memories worth it?
EDIT: Also, is that 970 overclockable?

I dont know about the memory (I have 1866mhz and it seems fine). That 970 is overclockable. I have that exact one and have it overclocked by 120mhz on the core clock and 200mhz on the memory clock, I'v heard of people going higher though.

Edit: Beaten
 
If you didn't have an optical drive, I'd recommend the Fractal Design Define S. There's the Define R4 for a bit more money, which is not as modular but does have optical drive bays. There's not a lot else that I'd recommend that isn't more expensive.
Went with the Define R4 since you're recommending it and you've looked at what I have going on so I'll trust its a good case that everything will fit finally.

Thanks for all the replies. Now it's just the waiting game for the new case to arrive.
 

RGM79

Member
Went with the Define R4 since you're recommending it and you've looked at what I have going on so I'll trust its a good case that everything will fit finally.

Thanks for all the replies. Now it's just the waiting game for the new case to arrive.

The Define series are nice minimal-looking cases with an emphasis on noise absorption and decent airflow, and the reviews are good. They're quite roomy, so you should have no problem. Good luck.
 
Just picked up a EVGA 970 (of the daftly named "Super Superclocked" variety) on a payday induced compulsive frenzy.

Have I made a poor decision?

it is a good card (better if it is the second model they released with the newer longer heatsink and more display ports instead of 2 DVI). The thing that you have to keep an eye open when buying EVGA 970s is that not all SLI with each other. If this this is your first evga 970 then you are fine, but if you buying a second one you have to make sure they are compatible as show in here:

http://www.evga.com/support/faq/afmmain.aspx?faqid=59534
 

kennah

Member
Not only did I hilariously lose my old Windows 7 Key. Turns out I installed 32bit Windows, not 64bit. Maybe I'll just Hackintosh now instead of later.
 
What are the best 120mm power to noise rad fans?

The default i100gtx ones are waaaaaay too loud for me to use at any decent speed comfortably.
 
Ok GAF. Was asking for advice the other day and what do you know, my PC dies. Pretty sure it's either the mobo PSU or CPU. So two questions. Firstly, what's the best site for pc parts in the UK? I used overclockers once but it wasn't exactly cheap so would love it if anyone knows a better site.

Secondly, what's the best bundle I can hope to pick up on a mobo/cpu roughly for £350? I was eyeing a 4790k with msi z95 gaming 5 mobo. Can I do better for that money and will it be much of an upgrade from my old, possibly dead 2600k?
 
Someone has to explain Gaming Evolved to me. How much do replays or whatever they are called impact gameplay? If its a lot I will turn it off and keep on highlights.

Really not impressed so far.
 

Flandy

Member
Anyone here have a BD drive?
Am tempted to get one so I can burn my BD + play and DVD and CDs I have. I currently don't have any sort of optical drive.

Would be cool if I could directly play my BD on my PC too but from what I've heard that isn't practical?
 
Anyone here have a BD drive?
Am tempted to get one so I can burn my BD + play and DVD and CDs I have. I currently don't have any sort of optical drive.

Would be cool if I could directly play my BD on my PC too but from what I've heard that isn't practical?

For me it was a huge pain. I was having to use Cyberlink player for it to work and it was a crash happy mess. I heard of a plugin of sorts for VLC but I could never get it to work.

It's definitely not on the level of DVD playback I'll put it that way. I haven't checked recently maybe the situation has gotten better.
 

EatChildren

Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Shit internet speeds halp.

I live in an apartment, DSL line, AustraliaTM internet speeds which means an average of about 550 KBs. Yes, I'm aware how fucking awful that is, but I'm apparently a fair way from the exchange and the lines here suck.

I've noticed on some occasions, in particular this morning, speeds can drop to as low as ~140 KBs without budging. It's really fucking bad. Yesterday when I got home it was like this, and rebooting my router seemed to bring me back up to the aforementioned speeds. Today, all morning in fact, so for the last ~3+ hours, no rebooting or tweaking has moved speeds away from 140 KBs.

So I guess the question is: is this most likely a seriously fucking huge speed hit during peak? an issue with lines in my apartment? modem? or what?
 
Quick question, is the Logitech G502 Proteus Core really as good as everyone and the reviews say? I heard sporadic comments and reviews complaining about the build-quality :/

I'm in dire need of a mouse replacement as my current one has a ominous double-click on single-click issue and after three months it drives me nuts. I currently use the Roccat Kone XTD and love it for the precision, size and customization and I would happily buy a second XTD but I fear the buttons will develop the same issue sooner than later again.
 

knitoe

Member
Shit internet speeds halp.

I live in an apartment, DSL line, AustraliaTM internet speeds which means an average of about 550 KBs. Yes, I'm aware how fucking awful that is, but I'm apparently a fair way from the exchange and the lines here suck.

I've noticed on some occasions, in particular this morning, speeds can drop to as low as ~140 KBs without budging. It's really fucking bad. Yesterday when I got home it was like this, and rebooting my router seemed to bring me back up to the aforementioned speeds. Today, all morning in fact, so for the last ~3+ hours, no rebooting or tweaking has moved speeds away from 140 KBs.

So I guess the question is: is this most likely a seriously fucking huge speed hit during peak? an issue with lines in my apartment? modem? or what?
First thing, connect your PC directly to the modem. If your speeds still sucks, contact your ISP because there really is nothing else you can do. If speeds are faster, time to get a better router.
 
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