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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Kezen

Banned
My Windows 10 is installed on my HDD (C drive).
It's slow (5900RPM), I'd like to clean install W10 on one of my SSD, is it possible ?
 

bidaum

Member
My Windows 10 is installed on my HDD (C drive).
It's slow (5900RPM), I'd like to clean install W10 on one of my SSD, is it possible ?
Of course, but you need to get your key if you don't have it (like if you just upgraded from within 7 to 10) which you can find with this tool, and you need to make a Windows 10 installer which you can do with this thing here. You may also want to make sure you've got at least your network adapter drivers handy just in case.
 

Rufus

Member
You don't need the key to clean install an upgraded copy of W10, provided it's not the first thing you do. Just ignore the prompts for a key (it asks twice iirc) during the install, once you're connected to the net it should activate on its own. You can check in Settings > Updates and Security > Activation.
 
Ok so...i'm planning on ordering my PC next weekend, barring anything unforseen. I have to go prebuilt etc not quite wholly for financial reasons but sorta but whatever. Anyhoo.

If anyone could cast their more-knowledgeable than mine eye over it and see if anything sticks out. It'll be used for gaming (duh), but also UE4/Maya/Unity etc and that sort of thing. It'd also be with some 1440p monitors that I'm not set on buying with or separately yet (I use both but game on one etc).


Fractal Define R5 Black
i7 5820k OC'd up to 4.4ghz
Asus X99-S ATX
16gb Kingston Hyper x Fury DDR4 2666MHz (2x8gb)
NVIDIA GeForce 980Ti 6gb (it's a reference card but I can't remember what they use)
250gb Samsung 850 EVO SSD (boot and the odd game. I'm thinking Fallout 4 etc)
2TB WD Black 7200rpm
Corsair 850w RM Series 80 Plus Gold Ultra Quiet etc etc
Corsair H100i GTX

I'd probably also get a Corsair k70 but that's by the by. Obvs there'd be non-stock thermal paste and fans but this is...more of a spec thing.

Anyhow if anything jumps out at people as "could be better" etc please mention. Don't have a whole lot of wiggleroom but if something is particularly better etc...but not in the way that a 5960x is better but also about £500 more :p

Thanks
 

Oxn

Member
Wow, check out this beast of a case. Only $150

a1_092915.jpg


11-133-283-01.jpg
 

RGM79

Member
Hey, thanks RGM79 - It comes to $2,640 according to PCPartPicker. Expensive, but this will be my primary workstation as well as gaming system, so still just within budget. Are there any components that you feel look particularly bad from a price/performance standpoint? My life will kind of revolve around this thing for a while so I guess I don't mind a little extravagance :)

I honestly didn't know DDR4 went that high. I searched for DDR4 3000 on Amazon, and the 32GB configuration costs more than twice my current RAM (which actually would put me over budget). I had read that ddr4 speed has diminishing returns after about 2400, but I have no idea how accurate that is. I'll do some more research on it - thanks for pointing it out! Can never research enough it seems.

Sure, there are a few places where you can save costs and keep the same performance. Extravagance is fine, you have a top tier processor and graphics card. But some items don't really offer much extra that will make a difference or will be noticeable for their premium cost.

Here's what I recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($364.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($229.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($314.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX100 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($314.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($71.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($654.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($87.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($93.89 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $2483.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-01 18:12 EDT-0400

The Noctua L12 cooler you listed is not so great, it doesn't have a lot of cooling performance. The Corsair H100i GTX will do a better job and allow for overclocking, if you like. Also the water cooler allows you to get the cheaper and slightly larger G.Skill RAM.

I changed the Corsair 2x16GB RAM for a set of G.Skill 4x8GB instead as it was cheaper. If you feel that you will need more than 32GB of RAM in the future and need to keep slots open for future upgrades, then feel free to go with the 2x16GB Corsair RAM instead. The G.Skill RAM is also rated for a higher speed.

It was cheaper to go with two Crucial BX100 1TB drives rather than get smaller capacity drives. You can always partition the drives yourselves to split one of the 1TB drives into two 500GB halves to better compartmentalize your stuff. Also, I switched the WD Black drive for a Toshiba model, it is cheaper yet has similar specs (7200RPM and 64MB cache). With the difference in cost, you could opt for a larger hard drive or even a second 2TB drive.

I switched the EVGA G2 PSU for the cheaper yet still excellent B2 model at 750 watts. The B2 while cheaper is no slouch when it comes to quality and 750 watts is still more than you'll need even if you were to overclock the PC.

The retail copy of Windows I put in my list is $20 cheaper, it's just the version that comes on disc instead of USB. If you have a spare USB drive you can make your own USB installation drive, it's very easy and free to do (scroll down).

Lastly the Gigabyte wifi adaptor I feel is somewhat better, it features an external antenna for easier/better reception as well as AC and bluetooth connectivity that the TP-Link model on your list lacks. It is slightly slower though, but not by a lot.
 

AndreH121

Neo Member
Anyone here using one of the newer NVMe Drives? I know they are a lot faster in synthetic benchmarks but was wondering how much faster they feel in everyday real-world use compared to a typical SATA III RAID-0 setup.
 

knitoe

Member
Anyone here using one of the newer NVMe Drives? I know they are a lot faster in synthetic benchmarks but was wondering how much faster they feel in everyday real-world use compared to a typical SATA III RAID-0 setup.

I don't have a NVMe, but I am running Samsung SM951 256GB m.2. Unless I am benchmarking and/or doing large writes, I don't notice any daily difference compare to my raid 0 Samsung 850 Pro 256GB setup. In fact, I keep on upgrading to faster SSDs, but i haven't notice much differences each time. Software doesn't load that much data at a time so going faster aren't really taken advantage of. And, the big difference, going from HDD to SSD, is the almost zero seek times. Going to faster SSDs doesn't improve on that number.
 

The Boat

Member
It makes cable management better and I guess it makes ventilation better as well due to less clutter inside the case.

I see that makes sense. Thanks.
EDIT:
So, this case is the only one that "my store" carries around my price range with a 200mm fan. It's not bad, but there are prettier ones around, namely the one RGM79 suggested. Is the 200 mm fan a big plus?
 
So I've been having trouble with my new PC. I finished building it, but when I turn it on, the monitor won't recognize the connection, much less boot up. This is despite the cpu cooler and gpu fans starting. I also see a light on clear CMOS and BIOS1 light up. I'm on an x99 mobo. I'm afraid that my mobo or cpu is fried, so I guess how do I check this?

Edit: Noticed that the gpu fans will stop and start again immediately when power was on.
 

knitoe

Member
Where do I buy this?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133283&Tpk=11-133-283

The sides looks like the are totally covered. Seems, it's just a piece of clear plastic or glass on top.

So I've been having trouble with my new PC. I finished building it, but when I turn it on, the monitor won't recognize the connection, much less boot up. This is despite the cpu cooler and gpu fans starting. I also see a light on clear CMOS and BIOS1 light up. I'm on an x99 mobo. I'm afraid that my mobo or cpu is fried, so I guess how do I check this?

Clear and reset the CMOS. Try by rotating with only 1 stick of ram. If the cpu and/or MB are bad, the only way to check is to switch them out for workings extra ones which most people won't have.
 
Clear and reset the CMOS. Try by rotating with only 1 stick of ram. If the cpu and/or MB are bad, the only way to check is to switch them out for workings extra ones which most people won't have.

Well that's frustrating. Ugh. Okay, well did so, and nothing so I'm pretty sure I'm gonna need to have one and/or the other replaced. I guess my next question is what is that process. Will I be able to use the warranty on this?
 
Well that's frustrating. Ugh. Okay, well did so, and nothing so I'm pretty sure I'm gonna need to have one and/or the other replaced. I guess my next question is what is that process. Will I be able to use the warranty on this?

- are you sure you plugged the cable from your gpu to the monitor? if so, what kind of cable? try e.g. dvi if you just tried hdmi.
- did you include the PCIE cables for the video card?

Check the OP for a troubleshooting guide and go from there. But yeah, you can definitely warranty parts if that is what it comes down to. I think it's probably something simple though... (though I'm not familiar with the lights on your motherboard -- check the manual for more details on what they mean.)
 
- are you sure you plugged the cable from your gpu to the monitor? if so, what kind of cable? try e.g. dvi if you just tried hdmi.
- did you include the PCIE cables for the video card?

Check the OP for a troubleshooting guide and go from there. But yeah, you can definitely warranty parts if that is what it comes down to. I think it's probably something simple though... (though I'm not familiar with the lights on your motherboard -- check the manual for more details on what they mean.)

Yep to both questions. Tried both HDMI and DisplayPort cables. And PCIE cables were plugged in.

Although I did notice something else. The gpu fans spun and then stopped and immediately restarted. Dunno if that would help anyone help me identify the problem.

Anyone dealt with MSI for warranties? Just to figure out how smooth/rough this process will be if it comes to that.
 
Yep to both questions. Tried both HDMI and DisplayPort cables. And PCIE cables were plugged in.

Although I did notice something else. The gpu fans spun and then stopped and immediately restarted. Dunno if that would help anyone help me identify the problem.

Anyone dealt with MSI for warranties? Just to figure out how smooth/rough this process will be if it comes to that.

Have you tried removing the gpu and using the onboard graphics? Also, if you end up needing to get a part replaced, I would go through the retailer if possible, is usually easier that way.
 
Have you tried removing the gpu and using the onboard graphics? Also, if you end up needing to get a part replaced, I would go through the retailer if possible, is usually easier that way.

X99s don't have on-board graphics

but i agree that you should try with another graphics card (if you have anything lying around) if you are sure you are connecting the one you have right.
 

windfish

Member
Hey guys,

after 7 years of good use, my old rig gets slower and slower with every day, I don't even dare to boot steam anymore, looking for something new and shiny!

My main use is drawing and photo/video editing with the occasional game thrown in the mix, I would love to be somewhat future proof and be able to play vr and upcoming games on high settings.
I won't overclock or customize stuff, pc should be as silent as possible..

I have never ever build a pc on my own and I am somewhat scared to do so, on my way to find a complete build I found the following Setup for little below ~1.200,- €

(http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Xk6cD3) / (http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Xk6cD3/by_merchant/)
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80662i56500)
**CPU Cooler** | [Scythe Mugen 4 79.0 CFM CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/scythe-cpu-cooler-scmg4000)
**Motherboard** | [Asus H170-PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-h170pro)
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cmk8gx4m2a2400c14r)
**Storage** | [Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct250bx100ssd1)
**Storage** | [Western Digital WD Blue 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10jpvx)
**Video Card** | [Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-video-card-strixgtx970dc2oc4gd5)
**Case** | [Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-case-200r)
**Power Supply** | [Corsair VS 550W ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-cp9020050ww) |-
**Optical Drive** | [LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/lg-optical-drive-wh16ns40)
**Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-kw900140)
**Wireless Network Adapter** | [Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-wireless-network-card-gcwb867di)
| Total | **$1121.69**

I guess there is room for improvements (more ram, better parts..?!)
Really considering to pull the trigger on the whole package but if I can save me some cash and get a little more out of it (was hoping for ~ 1.000,- €) I would try to build the thing on my own!

Would really appreciate a little help! :)
 
So I am eyeing up the Acer Predator 1440p freesync monitor but I have a couple of questions.

Would a 390 be good enough at 1440p, 144hz and freesync? I kind of feel like it isn't.

Also I have a 1440p IPS panel right now, is TN a big downgrade?
 

Sevenfold

Member
High end motherboards with PLX chips do that. If you really don't want to have that 1~2% overhead in latency, then go with a lower end motherboard that doesn't have PLX. No lower end motherboards have a PLX chip in the first place as those opting for three or four graphics cards usually have enough money to spend on higher end motherboards for Haswell-E that can natively support more PCI-E lanes.

Yeah not bothered about SLI at the moment so found a happy medium: Asus z710 Deluxe with a 6700k/Corsair H110i and 16GB DDR4. Parts arrive in the morning and I've just been introduced to Microsoft's ridiculous Windows 10 licencing.
 
edit: scrapped my post. pcspecialist emailed me back saying they will stock the new rog swifts and they should be offering them day 1 and on pre-order within 2 weeks or so. holding off on the new pc then..
 

RGM79

Member
Hey guys,

after 7 years of good use, my old rig gets slower and slower with every day, I don't even dare to boot steam anymore, looking for something new and shiny!

My main use is drawing and photo/video editing with the occasional game thrown in the mix, I would love to be somewhat future proof and be able to play vr and upcoming games on high settings.
I won't overclock or customize stuff, pc should be as silent as possible..

I have never ever build a pc on my own and I am somewhat scared to do so, on my way to find a complete build I found the following Setup for little below ~1.200,- €

(http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Xk6cD3) / (http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Xk6cD3/by_merchant/)
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80662i56500)
**CPU Cooler** | [Scythe Mugen 4 79.0 CFM CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/scythe-cpu-cooler-scmg4000)
**Motherboard** | [Asus H170-PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-h170pro)
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cmk8gx4m2a2400c14r)
**Storage** | [Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct250bx100ssd1)
**Storage** | [Western Digital WD Blue 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10jpvx)
**Video Card** | [Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-video-card-strixgtx970dc2oc4gd5)
**Case** | [Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-case-200r)
**Power Supply** | [Corsair VS 550W ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-cp9020050ww) |-
**Optical Drive** | [LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/lg-optical-drive-wh16ns40)
**Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-kw900140)
**Wireless Network Adapter** | [Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-wireless-network-card-gcwb867di)
| Total | **$1121.69**

I guess there is room for improvements (more ram, better parts..?!)
Really considering to pull the trigger on the whole package but if I can save me some cash and get a little more out of it (was hoping for ~ 1.000,- €) I would try to build the thing on my own!

Would really appreciate a little help! :)

What country are you in, and what retailers are you looking at (links would be handy)?

Yeah not bothered about SLI at the moment so found a happy medium: Asus z710 Deluxe with a 6700k/Corsair H110i and 16GB DDR4. Parts arrive in the morning and I've just been introduced to Microsoft's ridiculous Windows 10 licencing.

What problems are you having with activating Windows 10?
 
I built my new PC on Wednesday. I'll post some pics later after I have done some cable management. I really love the Define R5. So sleek, east to work with, and lives up to being pretty silent. The Noctua NH-D15 was pretty easy to install as well, as long as you install it outside the case. I'm also in love with the Corsair LPX Ram I got. I can't believe I got low profile 3200mhz ram at 1.35v. Incredible. Asus has made some improvements on the UEFI bios interface going from my old P8P67 Pro to the Z170 Deluxe. I think all my USB ports are now 3.0/3.1 except for two USB 2.0 ports on the Define R5, and I believe all my SATA ports are now SATA 3. Totally worth the upgrade for the chip set upgrade alone. I figure I'll over clock next week, after I have had time to do a little cable management, and some testing for stability at stock settings. I'll be happy with 4.5 Ghz if decent temps and voltage.
 

Sevenfold

Member
What problems are you having with activating Windows 10?
I have an existing build with W10 on it. The new mobo ram cpu is going in it. I don't have the key for my old windows 7 installation written down just the receipt from the MS store. No Windows.old folder left on my W10 installation.
 

RGM79

Member
I have an existing build with W10 on it. The new mobo ram cpu is going in it. I don't have the key for my old windows 7 installation written down just the receipt from the MS store. No Windows.old folder left on my W10 installation.

How long has it been since you upgraded from Windows 7? It sounds like you did a clean installation.

Why do you need the Windows 7 serial again?
 

windfish

Member
What country are you in, and what retailers are you looking at (links would be handy)?

Oh sure :) I am from germany, first place I looked was www.hardwareversand.de since it is mentioned in the OP, tried to make a similar setup and it turned out like that:


  • Intel Core I5-6500 Box, Sockel 1151 204,99 €
  • ASUS Z170 PRO Gaming (1151, ATX, DDR4) 152,99 €
  • be quiet! Dark Rock 3 66,99 €
  • 8GB-Kit Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4-3333, CL16-18-18-36, 1,35V (2 x 4GB) 110,99 €
  • Corsair Carbide Series 200R, ATX, ohne Netzteil 59,99 €
  • RaidSonic ICY BOX IB-864-B Kartenleser 21,99 €
  • Corsair VS Serie VS550, Non-Modular, 80+ 50,99 €
  • ASUS STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5, GeForce GTX 970, 4GB GDDR5, 2x DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort 375,99 €
  • Seagate Barracuda 7200 2000GB, SATA 6Gb/s 70,99 €
  • Crucial SSD 250GB BX100 83,99 €
  • Asus DRW-24F1ST Retail Silent 17,99 €
  • TP-Link TL-WDN3800 27,99 €
  • OEM Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit inkl. Vorinstallation 89,90 €
= 1.335,78 Euro (150,- more than the deal I was looking at)



my knowledge about pc retailers is rather limited so other placed would be amazon.de or alternate.de! This is the site where they are offering the setup i was referring to
(Intel Core i5-6500, Asus Strix GTX 970, Asus H170 Pro, 250 GB SSD BX 100, 1 GB WD Blue, 8 GByte DDR4-2400 Ram, Corsair VS550, Scythe Mugen 4, Corsair Carbide 200R two fans, dvd drive, w-lan card and Win10 ... 1180,-€)

judging by the numbers the deal seems to be pretty good but I don't know if I am missing something or simply don't see the difference in the parts...
 

RGM79

Member
Oh sure :) I am from germany, first place I looked was www.hardwareversand.de since it is mentioned in the OP, tried to make a similar setup and it turned out like that:
  • Intel Core I5-6500 Box, Sockel 1151 204,99 €
  • ASUS Z170 PRO Gaming (1151, ATX, DDR4) 152,99 €
  • be quiet! Dark Rock 3 66,99 €
  • 8GB-Kit Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4-3333, CL16-18-18-36, 1,35V (2 x 4GB) 110,99 €
  • Corsair Carbide Series 200R, ATX, ohne Netzteil 59,99 €
  • RaidSonic ICY BOX IB-864-B Kartenleser 21,99 €
  • Corsair VS Serie VS550, Non-Modular, 80+ 50,99 €
  • ASUS STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5, GeForce GTX 970, 4GB GDDR5, 2x DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort 375,99 €
  • Seagate Barracuda 7200 2000GB, SATA 6Gb/s 70,99 €
  • Crucial SSD 250GB BX100 83,99 €
  • Asus DRW-24F1ST Retail Silent 17,99 €
  • TP-Link TL-WDN3800 27,99 €
  • OEM Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit inkl. Vorinstallation 89,90 €
= 1.335,78 Euro (150,- more than the deal I was looking at)

my knowledge about pc retailers is rather limited so other placed would be amazon.de or alternate.de! This is the site where they are offering the setup i was referring to
(Intel Core i5-6500, Asus Strix GTX 970, Asus H170 Pro, 250 GB SSD BX 100, 1 GB WD Blue, 8 GByte DDR4-2400 Ram, Corsair VS550, Scythe Mugen 4, Corsair Carbide 200R two fans, dvd drive, w-lan card and Win10 ... 1180,-€)

judging by the numbers the deal seems to be pretty good but I don't know if I am missing something or simply don't see the difference in the parts...

In Germany, geizhals.de is a great website for comparison shopping. I do have some suggestions for some different parts for better quality and to maximize what you get for your money. I am more than willing to help you with a parts list, but I'd like to ask more questions to figure out exactly what you need so I can determine where to cut costs.

For example, you mentioned it needs to be as silent as possible, that is definitely possible. The computer from alternate.de has extras such as the WLAN card, DVD drive, do you need those?

I see in your list that you have selected a 2TB hard drive, is that what you prefer instead of the 1TB WD Blue?
 
HTPC processor question.

I'm parting out a SFF itx build and my only hurdle is the processor. I'm torn between getting the g3258 and an i3 processor. I'd like to stick to Intel for the upgrade path. The only thing I'm going to be using this pc for is video content streaming and steam in-home streaming. My host PC is a beast so I'd like this pc to transcode 1440/60 video without too much of a hassle. My gut tells me the g3258 will be more than enough but I'd like some second opinions.
 

kennah

Member
HTPC processor question.

I'm parting out a SFF itx build and my only hurdle is the processor. I'm torn between getting the g3258 and an i3 processor. I'd like to stick to Intel for the upgrade path. The only thing I'm going to be using this pc for is video content streaming and steam in-home streaming. My host PC is a beast so I'd like this pc to transcode 1440/60 video without too much of a hassle. My gut tells me the g3258 will be more than enough but I'd like some second opinions.
I've looked into this and they perform almost identically. The i3 would be more expensive, but not require an overclock. I bet you would be fine with the Pentium though.
 

LilJoka

Member
I've looked into this and they perform almost identically. The i3 would be more expensive, but not require an overclock. I bet you would be fine with the Pentium though.

1440p transcoding at 60fps might just warrant the i3, again that's my gut instinct, not based on data.
 

Jag

Member
Audio issue here. I recently built a new Skylake PC with an Asus-Z170-A mobo using Logitech 5.1 z506 speakers. When gaming, I'm getting an interference or static noise from the speakers. It's not all the time and it's not consistent.

I don't have any issues with headphones and used these speakers on my older PC without having the sound.

I'm guessing it is some kind of shielding or interference issue with the new PC or mobo? Anyone know how to fix it?
 
Audio issue here. I recently built a new Skylake PC with an Asus-Z170-A mobo using Logitech 5.1 z506 speakers. When gaming, I'm getting an interference or static noise from the speakers. It's not all the time and it's not consistent.

I don't have any issues with headphones and used these speakers on my older PC without having the sound.

I'm guessing it is some kind of shielding or interference issue with the new PC or mobo? Anyone know how to fix it?

This is a dumb question, but how close do you have your cell phone or Ipad to your computer?

That was it for rme.
 

Haribi

Why isn't there a Star Wars RPG? And wouldn't James Bond make for a pretty good FPS?
Oh sure :) I am from germany, first place I looked was www.hardwareversand.de since it is mentioned in the OP, tried to make a similar setup and it turned out like that:


  • Intel Core I5-6500 Box, Sockel 1151 204,99 €
  • ASUS Z170 PRO Gaming (1151, ATX, DDR4) 152,99 €
  • be quiet! Dark Rock 3 66,99 €
  • 8GB-Kit Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4-3333, CL16-18-18-36, 1,35V (2 x 4GB) 110,99 €
  • Corsair Carbide Series 200R, ATX, ohne Netzteil 59,99 €
  • RaidSonic ICY BOX IB-864-B Kartenleser 21,99 €
  • Corsair VS Serie VS550, Non-Modular, 80+ 50,99 €
  • ASUS STRIX-GTX970-DC2OC-4GD5, GeForce GTX 970, 4GB GDDR5, 2x DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort 375,99 €
  • Seagate Barracuda 7200 2000GB, SATA 6Gb/s 70,99 €
  • Crucial SSD 250GB BX100 83,99 €
  • Asus DRW-24F1ST Retail Silent 17,99 €
  • TP-Link TL-WDN3800 27,99 €
  • OEM Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit inkl. Vorinstallation 89,90 €
= 1.335,78 Euro (150,- more than the deal I was looking at)



my knowledge about pc retailers is rather limited so other placed would be amazon.de or alternate.de! This is the site where they are offering the setup i was referring to
(Intel Core i5-6500, Asus Strix GTX 970, Asus H170 Pro, 250 GB SSD BX 100, 1 GB WD Blue, 8 GByte DDR4-2400 Ram, Corsair VS550, Scythe Mugen 4, Corsair Carbide 200R two fans, dvd drive, w-lan card and Win10 ... 1180,-€)

judging by the numbers the deal seems to be pretty good but I don't know if I am missing something or simply don't see the difference in the parts...


Don't buy on Hardwarversand! They're going insolvent and users have expressed negative reviews about them lately like canceled orders and such.

Compare prices on Geizhals.de.
The cheapest and best website in most cases is Mindfactory.de

As for the parts:
I would recommend this r9 390 over the GTX 970.
The CPU cooler is kind of overkill for an unclockable cpu. This is perfectly fine for a non-oc CPU
Alpenföhn Ben Nevis
Also get this SSD which is quite a bit faster and costs only 6€ more
 
Hey all, popping back in to ask a question. Had a scare today with a brownout so I'm considering getting a UPS. Not sure how much VA I need. Looking at this one. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842101343 My PC has a 650W PSU.

PC Specs
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI
CPU: Intel i7 4790k (overclocked)
GPU: Gigabyte GV-N970G1 GAMING-4GD GeForce GTX 970
RAM: G.SKILL Ares 8GB 2133mhz
PSU: SeaSonic X650 Gold
Monitor: ASUS VS239H-P (uses a max of 40W if I understand the specs right)

Edit: Trying to look into things and read that PSUs with PFC (like mine) won't work well with a budget UPS. :\ http://superuser.com/a/238198
 
12V line peaking at 13.56V....I have this feeling that something bad is going to happen to my poor, brand new PC. How worried should I be PC GAF?

The reading is via HWMonitor, so I don't know if the reading is fully legit
 

windfish

Member
In Germany, geizhals.de is a great website for comparison shopping. I do have some suggestions for some different parts for better quality and to maximize what you get for your money. I am more than willing to help you with a parts list, but I'd like to ask more questions to figure out exactly what you need so I can determine where to cut costs.

For example, you mentioned it needs to be as silent as possible, that is definitely possible. The computer from alternate.de has extras such as the WLAN card, DVD drive, do you need those?

I see in your list that you have selected a 2TB hard drive, is that what you prefer instead of the 1TB WD Blue?

Well I don't really need a Wlan Card, I am using a usb dongle right now which works too, a dvd drive would be nice, since I still use mine from time to time, even more important would be a card reader, forgot to include one in my setup earlier! Being silent and power efficient is always a plus.

The 2TB is actually not really needed, for some reason i thought it was faster, used a pre-set build and didn't changed that part, so yeah the 1TB WD Blue would be sufficient!

Thanks so much for your help and time! :)

Don't buy on Hardwarversand! They're going insolvent and users have expressed negative reviews about them lately like canceled orders and such.

Compare prices on Geizhals.de.
The cheapest and best website in most cases is Mindfactory.de

As for the parts:
I would recommend this r9 390 over the GTX 970.
The CPU cooler is kind of overkill for an unclockable cpu. This is perfectly fine for a non-oc CPU
Alpenföhn Ben Nevis
Also get this SSD which is quite a bit faster and costs only 6€ more

Oh thanks for the heads-up! Now that you mention it, I think i heared about them going insolvent a few month ago... phew! Thanks for the other suggestions too!

mindfacory.de looks much better indeed! the r9 390 nitro seems to edge out the 970 performance quite a bit, will definetly consider it now! :)
 

Palom

Member
I built my computer about a year-and-a-half ago, and my CPU cooler just failed. My CPU is instantly overheating, and the CPU fan speed shows up as 0 RPM. I had a Corsair H60. Is there another relatively small water-cooling solution I should try instead, or just replace it with the same thing? I have a Corsair 250D mini ITX case, so space is somewhat of an issue. I have an i5-4670k, but it doesn't overclock very well and I only run it at 4.0GHz. I'm also not in a very good financial position at the moment, so this unexpected cost is not particularly welcome and something relatively low cost would be preferable. I use my PC for work, so I need to order something ASAP.
 
I built my computer about a year-and-a-half ago, and my CPU cooler just failed. My CPU is instantly overheating, and the CPU fan speed shows up as 0 RPM. I had a Corsair H60. Is there another relatively small water-cooling solution I should try instead, or just replace it with the same thing? I have a Corsair 250D mini ITX case, so space is somewhat of an issue. I have an i5-4670k, but it doesn't overclock very well and I only run it at 4.0GHz. I'm also not in a very good financial position at the moment, so this unexpected cost is not particularly welcome and something relatively low cost would be preferable. I use my PC for work, so I need to order something ASAP.
Just replace the fan if the pump and radiator are fine.
http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/case-fan/#s=120&p=1&R=5,4


I personally like CM Jetflos now that Gentle Typhoons are gone.
 
My Windows 10 is installed on my HDD (C drive).
It's slow (5900RPM), I'd like to clean install W10 on one of my SSD, is it possible ?

I did a clean install to Windows 10 with the preview. What I did was upgrade a clean install on my HDD then used the Samsung Migration tool for my SSD.
 

Palom

Member
Just replace the fan if the pump and radiator are fine.
http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/case-fan/#s=120&p=1&R=5,4

The fan is spinning fine. I'm not too well-versed in the mechanics of these, but the block that sits on the CPU is plugged into the CPUFAN slot on the motherboard, and that's what's not registering in my BIOS (though I don't honestly remember if it ever did; I'm just assuming it did). The fan that the radiator sits against seems to be spinning fine, and that is plugged into SYSFAN1, which registers okay.

I tried replacing the thermal paste first, but that didn't seem to help any. When I was checking things with RealTemp, it showed the CPU usage at 100% load; I'm not sure if that could indicate a problem with the CPU instead. I don't think it has anything to do with Windows, because even in the BIOS the temperature quickly jumps to 90°C+
 
Oh, bad luck. Sounds like your pump died. Even at 100% load your CPU shouldn't be that hot.

What case did you build in? Never mind, just saw that you already post. Let me check it's clearances. Could be better to go with an air cooling solution if a good one can fit.
 
why is DDR2 memory so expensive? anyone know where I can get a decent price for 4GB (DDR2 PC2-5300,ECC) from? has to be 2 sticks totaling 4GB for an older dell.
 

quesalupa

Member
My Windows 10 is installed on my HDD (C drive).
It's slow (5900RPM), I'd like to clean install W10 on one of my SSD, is it possible ?

If you haven't done it yet, here's what you do.

Upgrade to 10, make sure it's activated->download the media tool and create a bootable USB that matches the specs your PC has->boot from the USB->format the SSD->install Windows 10 on it (you'll now have two Windows 10's; you could go ahead and format the HDD, but I would reccomend making sure it works ok on the SSD first)->skip when it asks you for a key, you'll already be activated->format the HDD
 
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