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[jarosh]

I'm putting together a new build and I want to go as high end as possible (without going completely overboard) except for the GPU. This is not going to be a gaming PC. Mostly heavy audio work and other CPU intensive stuff.

I have this so far (mostly by going off what's in the OP):

I'll be using the GPU and DVD drive from my old system.

There seems to be a nation wide shortage of the 6700K though. They are out of stock in all of Switzerland and there's no estimate anywhere on when new stock will arrive. Should I go with a Haswell? The 5820 or even the 5930? Are these potentially faster then the Skylake anyway? (Of course I'd have to change the board too etc.)

My other big concern here is quietness. I've read through everything in the OP and the recent posts here, but I would still appreciate some input from people who have experience with quieter builds. Some PSUs I've used in the past have turned out to be surprisingly noisy, even though it had not been mentioned anywhere online. How is the CM V750? Could I go with something quieter? Same with the CPU heatsink. I just wanna go as quiet as possible here. I picked the Fractal case based on user reviews and on what's in the OP. But again, if anyone has a better pick, I'm all ears.

Quoting this once, hoping to get some more input.

It looks like I won't be getting the 6700K. I need a new system asap and I can't seem to be getting my hands on one anytime soon her in Switzerland. They are just out of stock everywhere and it sounds like they will be for a while. Is the 5820K my best alternative? There's also the 5930, but I don't know if that one's worth it at almost 200 bucks more!

 

[knitoe]

Quoting this once, hoping to get some more input.

It looks like I won't be getting the 6700K. I need a new system asap and I can't seem to be getting my hands on one anytime soon her in Switzerland. They are just out of stock everywhere and it sounds like they will be for a while. Is the 5820K my best alternative? There's also the 5930, but I don't know if that one's worth it at almost 200 bucks more!

I would go with the 5820K even if both were in stock. Having 6 core could be better with DX12. If going this route, you should get a better cpu cooler. Has well-E CPUs uses more wattage, and thus, produces more heat. Only get the 5930K if you need the extra PCIE bandwidth, for like 2/3 video cards while also running M.2 SSD(s).

 

[Nemaides]

Your build isn't bad, but there are some things to tweak about it to make for a stronger PC and better use of your money.

I made the following changes:

• cheaper motherboard model that is still adequate for your needs
• cheaper RAM that is rated for the same speed
• stronger graphics card to more comfortably meet your gaming requirements
• higher wattage power supply to better support any future upgrades you may make
• removed the DVD drive, as it's generally not required any more for computers, but you can add it back to the parts list if you like

The N300 is a good budget case, going by most reviews. The H97 Anniversary motherboard is OK, but I just wanted to suggest a cheaper model.

I was also considering that graphics card, with a cheaper motherboard and RAM I can fit it in my budget. Thanks! As for the drive, I want to use some DVDs I have, but a relative has offered one to me for free so I have it covered.

 

[j0hnny_385]

Can't believe it's been a year already since I bought my Gigabyte G1 970.
This GPU is a beast. Eating through MGS V, Witcher 3, Dying Light, ... everything I throw at it. Really, really happy with the choice. I think it'll be good for 1080p for the next couple of years easily.

Spoiler

Please be OK for 1080p for the next couple of years... ;_;

 

[jarosh]

I would go with the 5820K even if both were in stock. Having 6 core could be better with DX12. If going this route, you should get a better cpu cooler. Has well-E CPUs uses more wattage, and thus, produces more heat. Only get the 5930K if you need the extra PCIE bandwidth, for like 2/3 video cards while also running M.2 SSD(s).

Thanks! I think I will go with the 5820K, yes. I'm gonna have to revise the build then anyway, new board and so on.

You mean better than the stock cooler or better than the CM 212? You think I literally need more cooling power for the 5820? Does it run hotter than the Skylakes? Based on MisterNoisy's recommendation I was looking at the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 anyway (mostly for how quiet it's supposed to be though).

 

[Foxyone]

Out of morbid curiosity, is it ever ok to buy a refurbished PC and turn it into a lower-end gaming one? For instance, one of those ~$230 refurbished ones on Newegg that have a Sandy bridge i5 (2400/2500) and pretty much everything else besides a GPU, like this one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...8&cm_re=i5_desktop-_-9SIA7RB3DC3518-_-Product

Would it likely be a bad idea to buy one with the intent to stick a 750 ti inside and upgrade to W10 (it has a 320W PSU btw)?

 

[kennah]

Thanks! I think I will go with the 5820K, yes. I'm gonna have to revise the build then anyway, new board and so on.

You mean better than the stock cooler or better than the CM 212? You think I literally need more cooling power for the 5820? Does it run hotter than the Skylakes? Based on MisterNoisy's recommendation I was looking at the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 anyway (mostly for how quiet it's supposed to be though).

5820k doesnt come with a stock cooler

 

[jarosh]

5820k doesnt come with a stock cooler

Gotcha. But why would I need a "better" cooler than I would for the 6700 or a better one than the CM 212 (which was the one on my list)?

 

[Tangoownage]

Gotcha. But why would I need a "better" cooler than I would for the 6700 or a better one than the CM 212 (which was the one on my list)?

Posted on previous page, but I've found corsair gt h100i to be brilliant. I've got the corsair 540 case and under full load it's maxs out in mid 40s.

 

[comrade]

You are completely wrong. There's no difference between the two in gaming under normal circumstances yet the 5820K is notably faster in applications and games that make use of more cores. Once overclocked to an average achievable overclock (4.5ghz 5820K v 4.7Ghz 6700K) the gap is even bigger in favour of the 6-core.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHzg3YeE28A

The 5820k is 1% faster in some apps while getting beaten in every game performance wise.

 

[jarosh]

Posted on previous page, but I've found corsair gt h100i to be brilliant. I've got the corsair 540 case and under full load it's maxs out in mid 40s.

I believe the H100i might be too loud because of the pump...? I'm looking for something extremely quiet. I would rather not or only marginally overclock my 5820 and have quieter cooling instead. That's why I was looking at the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3.

 

[Armadilo]

Guys can you look at this and see if it's good,

https://www.digitalstorm.com/configurator.asp?id=1279521

 

[Kezen]

Guys can you look at this and see if it's good,

https://www.digitalstorm.com/configurator.asp?id=1279521

It's overpriced and the PSU does not seem very good.

 

[kennah]

Gotcha. But why would I need a "better" cooler than I would for the 6700 or a better one than the CM 212 (which was the one on my list)?

It generates 125w of heat. The 6700k generates 85w. But most coolers can handle it fine. Mostly comes to personal preference of size and noise

 

[Armadilo]

Is their such thing as an amazing not overpriced Pre-built gaming pc ?

 

[Kezen]

Is their such thing as an amazing not overpriced Pre-built gaming pc ?

Nope. You want the best perf/dollar ? Build one yourself.
You want pre-built ? Accept to pay much more for much less.

 

[Hasphat'sAnts]

Hey guys. Finally pulling the trigger on my upgrade:

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
MOBO: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler

Came out at around $660. Excited!

 

[Woorloog]

Is their such thing as an amazing not overpriced Pre-built gaming pc ?

Nope. You want the best perf/dollar ? Build one yourself.
You want pre-built ? Accept to pay much more for much less.

If you don't want to build the computer by yourself for any reason, i'd recommend finding a store that offers building service, something that allows you to pick and choose the parts and they'll build it. It will cost extra but you'll most likely get something better than a pre-built package.
Of course, this depends on the prices the store has, if parts cost above average this probably won't be a good idea.

 

[jarosh]

It generates 125w of heat. The 6700k generates 85w. But most coolers can handle it fine. Mostly comes to personal preference of size and noise

Ah yes, that makes sense.

Honestly, I think I will end up importing a 6700K and just eat the import fees. I discovered that the thing is pretty much out of stock and incredibly hard to get all over Europe, not just in Switzerland, so I'll have to order one from Amazon.com. I don't care at this point. I just want to have the newest generation chip and not be stuck with a 2011 board. The lower heat output is another added benefit, since it will potentially require less cooling power and produce less noise at full load.

 

[Rootbeer]

Ah yes, that makes sense.

Honestly, I think I will end up importing a 6700K and just eat the import fees. I discovered that the thing is pretty much out of stock and incredibly hard to get all over Europe, not just in Switzerland, so I'll have to order one from Amazon.com. I don't care at this point. I just want to have the newest generation chip and not be stuck with a 2011 board. The lower heat output is another added benefit, since it will potentially require less cooling power and produce less noise at full load.

If the extra cost isn't outrageous I would do the same. Better to build on a board that has a bit of future to it. by going with a LGA 1151 board you have better expansion options. 2016 chips should work in it, and if you are lucky maybe even ones beyond that. So you have some upgradability.

 

[knitoe]

Ah yes, that makes sense.

Honestly, I think I will end up importing a 6700K and just eat the import fees. I discovered that the thing is pretty much out of stock and incredibly hard to get all over Europe, not just in Switzerland, so I'll have to order one from Amazon.com. I don't care at this point. I just want to have the newest generation chip and not be stuck with a 2011 board. The lower heat output is another added benefit, since it will potentially require less cooling power and produce less noise at full load.

No. Get the 5820K. The MB are 2011-3 which only come out last year with the 5820k, 5930k and 5960x. It still going to be the lead platform for 6-8 core CPUs for a few years. It has every feature the Skylake MBs have. The chart below shows a 5930K, but a 5820K performs the same. Also, take not that they can easily overclock to 4.4-4.5GHz so performance would be faster than what's shown in the chart. Just need a good cooler.

 

[wowzors]

Is anyone really good at OCing? I have had my 2500k at 4.5ghz but the vcore numbers and what HWmonitor shows have always bugged me, my numbers seem really high, and i have had freezing in Heroes of the Storm, nothing else really.

I recently tried to IBT on high for 20 cycles and only got about 15 done before a crash.

here is a screen cap of my HWmonitor:

 

[KoolKing]

Newbie to PC building and I need a little advice here. I've been thinking about a new PC build (currently have a 2009 Dell Outlet Inspiron chugging along with 2GB Ram) and with Fallout 4 coming up, I finally have to start the ball rolling. I'm no stranger to messing around inside PCs and upgrading parts, but this would be my first actual build from scratch. I'm following the "Enthusiast" layout in the OP and am basing things around a 980Ti GPU and a Skylake processor. I'll be hooking this PC up to my TV so 1080p would be my max resolution for now. I was originally planning to spend around $1300 - $1400 so this current build is a little more than I was expecting but I'd rather pay more up front as I'm not planning on doing too many upgrades to it over the next few years. Any advice on where to cut corners (if any) or if there are any compatibility issues would be greatly appreciated.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($364.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($154.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($659.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1742.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-24 20:47 EDT-0400

 

[knitoe]

Is anyone really good at OCing? I have had my 2500k at 4.5ghz but the vcore numbers and what HWmonitor shows have always bugged me, my numbers seem really high, and i have had freezing in Heroes of the Storm, nothing else really.

I recently tried to IBT on high for 20 cycles and only got about 15 done before a crash.

here is a screen cap of my HWmonitor:

What does HWinfo say? If it's the same, the VCore is way too high. Max recommend for 24/7 overclock should be 1.35V. For 4.5GHz, most people can get it <1.30V. Are you manually OC or using auto settings? Auto will usually select more than needed. If you haven't already, try do manual with 45 multiplier, set 1.35V and test. If it passes, lower voltages and retest. If it continue to pass, keep on lowering. Once you find the right voltages, use OFFSET, test and make the VCore same as what amount you found. As for why using OFFSET, the allows the cpu to use less voltages while idling.

 

[Renekton]

I believe the H100i might be too loud because of the pump...? I'm looking for something extremely quiet. I would rather not or only marginally overclock my 5820 and have quieter cooling instead. That's why I was looking at the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3.

H100i has settings you can tune between performance and noise. Even at discreet settings it cools well.

For air, the noctua 14 is pretty quiet.

 

[Darknight]

Anyone know if the R9 295x2 is comparable to GTX 980ti? Or just buy a G1 980ti? I dont want to shell over $600 for a GPU but I want one lol. Found a 295x2 on CL for a decent price but not sure if its worth it either.

 

[opticalmace]

Is anyone really good at OCing? I have had my 2500k at 4.5ghz but the vcore numbers and what HWmonitor shows have always bugged me, my numbers seem really high, and i have had freezing in Heroes of the Storm, nothing else really.

I recently tried to IBT on high for 20 cycles and only got about 15 done before a crash.

here is a screen cap of my HWmonitor:

Try it on CPU-Z and see what you get. How did you OC it anyway? Manually? Offset or fixed vcore?

Anyone know if the R9 295x2 is comparable to GTX 980ti? Or just buy a G1 980ti? I dont want to shell over $600 for a GPU but I want one lol. Found a 295x2 on CL for a decent price but not sure if its worth it either.

I would go for the 980 Ti, avoid the hassles of crossfire. Also way more efficient.

 

[jarosh]

If the extra cost isn't outrageous I would do the same. Better to build on a board that has a bit of future to it. by going with a LGA 1151 board you have better expansion options. 2016 chips should work in it, and if you are lucky maybe even ones beyond that. So you have some upgradability.

No. Get the 5820K. The MB are 2011-3 which only come out last year with the 5820k, 5930k and 5960x. It still going to be the lead platform for 6-8 core CPUs for a few years. It has every feature the Skylake MBs have. The chart below shows a 5930K, but a 5820K performs the same. Also, take not that they can easily overclock to 4.4-4.5GHz so performance would be faster than what's shown in the chart. Just need a good cooler.

Haha, you guys are not making this easy!

Damnit, I really AM worried about the necessary cooling to get the 5820K to that level of performance though. Noise is by far my biggest concern. And it seems pretty clear to me that I would have to put up with a faster and potentially louder fan.

:/

 

[Ashtrax]

So I picked up a CM Nepton 240m CPU water cooler, and have noticed that it has a slight ticking sound which I assume is air bubbles?

I was just wondering if any GAFers have had this issue before and know how to go about getting rid of them. The cooler itself is working well, but that slight ticking sound is annoying me.

 

[ndawgdrake]

Is anyone really good at OCing? I have had my 2500k at 4.5ghz but the vcore numbers and what HWmonitor shows have always bugged me, my numbers seem really high, and i have had freezing in Heroes of the Storm, nothing else really.

I recently tried to IBT on high for 20 cycles and only got about 15 done before a crash.

here is a screen cap of my HWmonitor:

Jesus Christmas, that's some high VCore. Mine OC's the same at 1.285 with a .04 Delta on P95. I'd get nervous going near 1.4 VCore.

I'd say disable some Power Saving features in the BIOS (sorry it's been awhile since I touched my OC settings, and I don't recall exactly which ones.). Or drop it down to 4.4 or 4.3 Ghz (you might have a below average silicon).

 

[knitoe]

Haha, you guys are not making this easy!

Damnit, I really AM worried about the necessary cooling to get the 5820K to that level of performance though. Noise is by far my biggest concern. And it seems pretty clear to me that I would have to put up with a faster and potentially louder fan.

:/

You just need a huge air cooler or a good All In One water cooler. With those, they will be fairly quiet while gaming. You would be more likely be hearing the noise from the video card.

 

[spaceball_213]

Hey guys I got 1000$ AUD to spend on a monitor to go with my 980ti and was wondering what you guys could recommend me?

 

[Ashtrax]

Hey guys I got 1000$ AUD to spend on a monitor to go with my 980ti and was wondering what you guys could recommend me?

ASUS ROG G-Sync 27" 1440p. You won't regret it.

http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Monitors/25+_inch/55626-PG278Q

 

[opticalmace]

Hey guys I got 1000$ AUD to spend on a monitor to go with my 980ti and was wondering what you guys could recommend me?

ASUS ROG G-Sync 27" 1440p. You won't regret it.

http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Monitors/25+_inch/55626-PG278Q

There's also a newer version (of that Asus) coming out very soon (or at least reviews are now out), the PG279Q I believe. And there's an Acer XB270HU which is worth considering, though be aware it has had some quality assurance issues.

edit: The PG278Q is TN, the PG279Q and Acer are IPS.

 

[spaceball_213]

ASUS ROG G-Sync 27" 1440p. You won't regret it.

http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Monitors/25+_inch/55626-PG278Q

This looks awesome, Ill take a look at it now

edit: I might aswell wait for the new version. Ill check the reviews out for it.

 

[Ashtrax]

There's also a newer version (of that Asus) coming out very soon (or at least reviews are now out), the PG279Q I believe.

Ah, yes! I completely forgot about the new models. I'm considering upgrading mine to the 4K model ASUS has.

 

[EatChildren]

Somewhat off topic question, but does anybody know if NVIDIA GPU driver level SSAO in certain games, like those on UE3, ever had a solution for flickering and rendering through transparency layers (like smoke)?

 

[Haloid1177]

Newbie to PC building and I need a little advice here. I've been thinking about a new PC build (currently have a 2009 Dell Outlet Inspiron chugging along with 2GB Ram) and with Fallout 4 coming up, I finally have to start the ball rolling. I'm no stranger to messing around inside PCs and upgrading parts, but this would be my first actual build from scratch. I'm following the "Enthusiast" layout in the OP and am basing things around a 980Ti GPU and a Skylake processor. I'll be hooking this PC up to my TV so 1080p would be my max resolution for now. I was originally planning to spend around $1300 - $1400 so this current build is a little more than I was expecting but I'd rather pay more up front as I'm not planning on doing too many upgrades to it over the next few years. Any advice on where to cut corners (if any) or if there are any compatibility issues would be greatly appreciated.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($364.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($154.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($659.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1742.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-24 20:47 EDT-0400

Look into 3000+ RAM. The new chip and board actually take advantage of the extra memory they give you. Worth it. If you're worried about price aim for just the 3000 but I think 3200 is the sweet spot right now.

 

[ThoseDeafMutes]

Speaking of monitors, am I correct in assuming that a 60hz 4K monitor cannot do, say, 120hz if it's only displaying 1440p or 1080p? This assumption is why I'm holding off on doing anything monitor related until I can get a 4K IPS / "Better than TN" display with G-sync and high refresh rates. But I thought I better actually check that assumption. If they could go higher with lower res images somehow, that would suit me fine since there aren't many games I'd be breaking 60fps @ 4k on - I want the option merely to have the flexibility when running at 1080p.

 

[opticalmace]

Speaking of monitors, am I correct in assuming that a 60hz 4K monitor cannot do, say, 120hz if it's only displaying 1440p or 1080p? This assumption is why I'm holding off on doing anything monitor related until I can get a 4K IPS / "Better than TN" display with G-sync and high refresh rates. But I thought I better actually check that assumption. If they could go higher with lower res images somehow, that would suit me fine since there aren't many games I'd be breaking 60fps @ 4k on - I want the option merely to have the flexibility when running at 1080p.

Would have to check the specs, but yeah, don't expect too much. They might do maybe 75Hz or a bit more at lower resolutions, but probably nothing significant. Probably varies from monitor to monitor, I haven't checked myself.

 

[BolognaOni]

Speaking of monitors, am I correct in assuming that a 60hz 4K monitor cannot do, say, 120hz if it's only displaying 1440p or 1080p? This assumption is why I'm holding off on doing anything monitor related until I can get a 4K IPS / "Better than TN" display with G-sync and high refresh rates. But I thought I better actually check that assumption. If they could go higher with lower res images somehow, that would suit me fine since there aren't many games I'd be breaking 60fps @ 4k on - I want the option merely to have the flexibility when running at 1080p.

I suppose its possible, since the 60Hz 4k limit is due to port bandwidth AFAIK, but I don't really see this monitor getting made. Higher refresh rates alone adds cost to the monitor/panel, and this would probably require cost add/ development in accessory hardware as well. The market for a 4k screen with higher refresh at lower frequencies would be a niche within a niche.

For probably the next generation of cards, high refresh is likely going to be limited to 1440p.

 

[RGM79]

So I picked up a CM Nepton 240m CPU water cooler, and have noticed that it has a slight ticking sound which I assume is air bubbles?

I was just wondering if any GAFers have had this issue before and know how to go about getting rid of them. The cooler itself is working well, but that slight ticking sound is annoying me.

There's nothing you can do yourself, those prebuilt water cooling kits are sealed and never designed to be opened. You can contact the retailer you bought it from and arrange for an exchange or refund if it's still within the return period, contact Cooler Master to get a replacement unit if it's still under warranty, or try playing around with the fan speed settings. My friend had a Corsair H55 water cooler that had a constant bubbling/ticking noise not unlike a fish tank's air pump. After a bunch of trial and error, I was able to figure out that the noise was lessened or even sometimes gone if the fan speed for the header that the pump was plugged into was set low enough.

I have no idea if setting that has any affect on cooling or long term usage, my friend replaced the Corsair H55 before long.

Anyone know if the R9 295x2 is comparable to GTX 980ti? Or just buy a G1 980ti? I dont want to shell over $600 for a GPU but I want one lol. Found a 295x2 on CL for a decent price but not sure if its worth it either.

The R9 295X2 has more raw power than a single GTX 980 Ti, but the 980 Ti is preferable for better overall experience. Lower power consumption, heat generation, and no crossfire issues (sometimes lack of support or poor game optimization). Also, I think it's probably the Nvidia drivers, but the 980 Ti offers more consistent and higher minimum framerates, meaning framerate drops aren't as bad or as often.

 

[wowzors]

Try it on CPU-Z and see what you get. How did you OC it anyway? Manually? Offset or fixed vcore?


I would go for the 980 Ti, avoid the hassles of crossfire. Also way more efficient.

Here is what CPUZ shows.

Here are all of my Bios settings:
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc0052069kwm.jpg
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc0051982kc1.jpg
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc00518i5jlr.jpg
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc00517mgj0u.jpg
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc00516vxj2x.jpg
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc005157rklh.jpg

 

[opticalmace]

Here is what CPUZ shows.

Here are all of my Bios settings:
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc0052069kwm.jpg
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc0051982kc1.jpg
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc00518i5jlr.jpg
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc00517mgj0u.jpg
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc00516vxj2x.jpg
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=dsc005157rklh.jpg

I would be concerned, looks like it might really be at 1.45V.

What I would do is:
- go back to defaults, check motherboard manual, and figure out why when you've requested 1.365V it is giving you over 1.4V (assuming the programs are reading it correctly). For instance, what vcore will you get at stock speeds, or a mild overclock? Make sure it's responding as you'd expect in terms of vcore (some things will affect this, like LLC, IIRC).
- see if you can use an offset vcore, instead of fixed voltage (which I assume that to be).
- I don't know if you can save profiles in your bios, but if so you could save this OC profile before doing the above.

What motherboard is it, by the way?

You can also google your motherboard + sandy bridge overclock to make sure there's not a setting that is set incorrectly for what you're trying to do. I'm sure someone else out there has the same setup as you.

 

[wowzors]

I would be concerned, looks like it might really be at 1.45V.

What I would do is:
- go back to defaults, check motherboard manual, and figure out why when you've requested 1.365V it is giving you over 1.4V (assuming the programs are reading it correctly). For instance, what vcore will you get at stock speeds, or a mild overclock? Make sure it's responding as you'd expect in terms of vcore (some things will affect this, like LLC, IIRC).
- see if you can use an offset vcore, instead of fixed voltage (which I assume that to be).
- I don't know if you can save profiles in your bios, but if so you could save this OC profile before doing the above.

What motherboard is it, by the way?

You can also google your motherboard + sandy bridge overclock to make sure there's not a setting that is set incorrectly for what you're trying to do. I'm sure someone else out there has the same setup as you.

I have looked up my motherboard and overclocks before and i get BSOD and crashes every time i try the settings. I have had this current overclock for like 4 years. I have it set to LLC level 5, only line level that works.

its a Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128498

 

[Ashtrax]

After a bunch of trial and error, I was able to figure out that the noise was lessened or even sometimes gone if the fan speed for the header that the pump was plugged into was set low enough.

I have no idea if setting that has any affect on cooling or long term usage, my friend replaced the Corsair H55 before long.

Cheers. Its my first crack at water cooling / overclocking and I wanted to trial an AIO before I went full custom kits. I've heard the AIOs do suffer from the air bubble issues and some say it eventually sorts itself out.

Will post back when I have some results!

 

[opticalmace]

I have looked up my motherboard and overclocks before and i get BSOD and crashes every time i try the settings. I have had this current overclock for like 4 years. I have it set to LLC level 5, only line level that works.

its a Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128498

How hot does it get at 100% load?

 

[Tangoownage]

H100i has settings you can tune between performance and noise. Even at discreet settings it cools well.

For air, the noctua 14 is pretty quiet.

What he said. It's the fans that are noise but can put into quiet mode, still have an audible hum thoighthough. I've read that the stock fans can be switched out for some better noctura ones to reduce the noise.

 

[Durante]

Regarding the CPU talk further up, I rarely say this when it comes to PC components, but in this case it's clear that the 5820k is the far more "future-proof" choice.

 

[jarosh]

You just need a huge air cooler or a good All In One water cooler. With those, they will be fairly quiet while gaming. You would be more likely be hearing the noise from the video card.

Not gonna be a gaming machine, GPU fan won't ever kick into high gear. Mainly CPU heavy work on it, like audio etc.

Regarding the CPU talk further up, I rarely say this when it comes to PC components, but in this case it's clear that the 5820k is the far more "future-proof" choice.

Really? Surprised to hear this. You think 2011 v3 is gonna be around for longer? Like I said, this won't be a gaming machine, so I mostly care about a high end CPU (and fast SSD + RAM). I'd actually be paying almost exactly the same importing a 6700K or buying a 5820K locally, since the latter is already quite a bit more expensive here.