Celcius
°Temp. member
Same here, and I run it for 24 hours before calling it "fully stable"
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
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Same here, and I run it for 24 hours before calling it "fully stable"
Do you have v-sync turned on? Turning that on should eliminate the tearing.
I used realbench.
Did they fix Prime 95 so it doesn't overwork CPUs beyond the safe threshold?
Linus says in this video not to use Prime 95.
https://youtu.be/FjIweExETlI
My buddy at work didn't believe me but found others saying goes the same thing on reddit.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Anyone know wtf Futuremark Systeminfo is, and if it's safe to uninstall from my computer or not? Thanks.
GetDigitized
Member
Alright so I was going to side grade from a 390x to 480 since low power+cooler+new warranty... But the 1060 looks good as well. I didn't know the rivalry was this bad until I went into each thread and saw both sides saying bad things about the other. Amd drivers are apparently bad initially, but apparently nvidia nerfs their cards or doesn't care about them after the new ones release.
I've always gotten and cards since I don't go into high end (got the 390x for 370-380 prices) and I don't really need to game on max settings (I play on both console and pc) but need 60fps, the rest of my rig is good... So what would you guys recommend, from what I can see it's only a small performance drop and I'd rather have new warranty and a cooler running build. I can get the cost of the cards for my 390x so I'm not losing money on this either (actually making money on selling the 390x).
I've always gotten and cards since I don't go into high end (got the 390x for 370-380 prices) and I don't really need to game on max settings (I play on both console and pc) but need 60fps, the rest of my rig is good... So what would you guys recommend, from what I can see it's only a small performance drop and I'd rather have new warranty and a cooler running build. I can get the cost of the cards for my 390x so I'm not losing money on this either (actually making money on selling the 390x).
Reposting for new page...
Anyone have recommendations for a PSU that's good for OC? I thoughts watts count was the most important but I'm reading that I shouldn't be doing any OC with my PSU linked below.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/457306/CX_Series_CX750M_750_Watt_ATX_Modular_Power_Supply
I'm thinking of getting this one linked below but was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions or comments on this PSU?
http://www.microcenter.com/product/457301/RM_Series_RM850_850_Watt_ATX_Modular_Power_Supply
For those wondering this guide at Tom's Hardware states my PSU is not adequate for overclocking. There is a PSU tier list included and my PSU is tier 4.
http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2749337/safe-gpu-overclocking-guide-2016.html
Anyone have recommendations for a PSU that's good for OC? I thoughts watts count was the most important but I'm reading that I shouldn't be doing any OC with my PSU linked below.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/457306/CX_Series_CX750M_750_Watt_ATX_Modular_Power_Supply
I'm thinking of getting this one linked below but was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions or comments on this PSU?
http://www.microcenter.com/product/457301/RM_Series_RM850_850_Watt_ATX_Modular_Power_Supply
For those wondering this guide at Tom's Hardware states my PSU is not adequate for overclocking. There is a PSU tier list included and my PSU is tier 4.
http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2749337/safe-gpu-overclocking-guide-2016.html
It's background service of 3DMark. Wouldn't suggest uninstalling it, unless you want to uninstall 3DMark also.
Need to use an old version, 27.9.
Check the stress testing section.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics
For what it's worth, nvidia cards tend to run cooler than AMD. If cost isn't an issue, I'd go for the 1060.
What is the rest of your system? I would look at the EVGA G2 or P2 power supplies. Or Corsair RMx series.
Metalingus5150
Member
Is there a site out there or something that shows the settings that are used on console vs the settings on pc?
Like for example, it'll say the PS4 is running the equivalent to the medium settings on PC.
Like for example, it'll say the PS4 is running the equivalent to the medium settings on PC.
Never will be since a single setting can have multiple component presets, all of which would be custom to each console. We can get close, but no site that I know of documents it.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Trying to install GTAV, but my PC won't read the discs. I put them in and nothing. Just a few days ago I installed 360 controller drivers from a Microsoft disc without problems, and I've burned music to several discs recently as well, so I don't understand why it's not reading these DVDs at all. I've restarted my computer to no avail. There isn't even an hourglass icon to indicate anything is happening.
EDIT: Well, tried a CD and nothing happened. Seems that the issue is with the hardware itself. I still see it listed in Device Manager, though. Any ideas what may have went wrong? Laser?
EDIT: Well, tried a CD and nothing happened. Seems that the issue is with the hardware itself. I still see it listed in Device Manager, though. Any ideas what may have went wrong? Laser?
SpiritSlayer
Member
Update for the PC: I was able to test the PSU with the test adapter included in the box and it and doesn't cycle. However when I hook up the PSU to Mobo it does cycle. I've removed the RAM and graphics card and it continues to cycles, this is after I've reseated the CPU. The only things attached to the Mobo are the CPU and CPU cooler. Is it possible that my Mobo is dead? Should I hear a beeping sound when I turn on the PC because there isn't one.
You'll only hear a beep if the Mobo has a speaker built in or attached to the speaker header.
Stop testing without RAM. Use atleast 1 stick.
Either the Mobo socket is damaged or CPU is dead.
Well that sucks. Thanks for the heads up.
Below is my rig. I was looking at the RMx series but I'm trying to keep as close to the guide I linked to above.
CPU: Core i7-6700K
http://www.microcenter.com/product/451883/Core_i7-6700K_40GHz_LGA_1151_Boxed_Processor
GPU: Gigabyte LogoGigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1
http://www.microcenter.com/product/466605/GeForce_GTX_1070_G1_Gaming_8GB_PCIe_Video_Card
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 LGA 1151 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.microcenter.com/product/452541/GA-Z170-HD3_LGA_1151_ATX_Intel_Motherboard
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Universal CPU Cooler
http://www.microcenter.com/product/373900/Hyper_212_EVO_Universal_CPU_Cooler
Memory: 16GB Corsair DDR4-3000
http://www.microcenter.com/product/458668/16GB_2_x_8GB_DDR4-3000_PC4-24000_Desktop_Memory_Module
HDD: WD Blue 1TB
http://www.microcenter.com/product/..._35_Internal_Hard_Drive_WD10EZEX_-_Bare_Drive
SDD: PNY 240GB
http://www.microcenter.com/product/...nternal_Solid_State_Drive_-_SSD7CS1211-240-RB
Audio: Asus Xonar DSX 7.1
http://www.microcenter.com/product/397403/Xonar_DSX_PCIe_71_Audio_Card
Fans: 2 Cougar Vortex Hydro fans
http://www.microcenter.com/product/...ydro_Dynamic_Bearing_140mm_Silent_Cooling_Fan
Power Supply: Corsair CX Series CX750M 750 Watt
http://www.microcenter.com/product/457306/CX_Series_CX750M_750_Watt_ATX_Modular_Power_Supply
OS: Windows 10 home edition 64-bit
http://www.microcenter.com/product/452239/Windows_10_Home_32-bit-64-bit_-_USB_Drive
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 200R
http://www.microcenter.com/product/438345/Carbide_Series_200R_Windowed_Compact_ATX_Case
RMx PSUs are some of the best units made. Much better than RM or lower ranges.
It would fit somewhere in the tier 1 chart from toms, if you compare it's results with competitors here:
http://www.hardwareinsights.com/wp/corsair-rm550x-review/7/#Conclusion-and-evaluation
Nope, no reason at all.
Okay. yes you have some nice components there, I would want a quality PSU to go with all that. Take your pick at any of these will be plenty.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qYTrxr/evga-power-supply-220g20550y1
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9q4NnQ/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6p8H99/evga-power-supply-220p20650x1
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3zNypg/corsair-power-supply-cp9020090na
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Rp8H99/corsair-power-supply-cp9020091na
Any of those are high quality and will serve you well. Go with whatever one you want or has the best price. I ordered the EVGA 650 P2 today myself for a similar build as yours.
Finally got my build set. Everything is either on the way or already here. The build date is this Friday. Can't wait! Spent less than $2,800 total, which is pretty good considering how much I was originally planning on spending. I'll be burying my Geforce 960 and 2008 Dell monitor this weekend (may they rest in peace) .
GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW (Finally got this shit ordered today)
Processor - i7 6800K (Yeah yeah, it's no 6700k, but I do a lot of app-heavy stuff also)
CPU Cooler - ARCTIC COOLING Liquid Freezer 120 (Only planning on modest overclock)
Motherboard - MSI X99A GAMING PRO CARBON
RAM - G.SKILL TridentZ Series 32GB (14-14-14-34 timings and might overclock)
Monitor - Acer Predator XB271HU (Decided against the X34 since 21:9 gaming is too spotty)
Hard Drive - Samsung 950 PRO 512 GB
PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2
Case - Fractal Design Define R5 (Silent) Blackout Edition (w/ window)
OS: Windows 10 Professional
I also have about 22 TB worth of storage across 5 current drives that I'll be bringing over.
GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW (Finally got this shit ordered today)
Processor - i7 6800K (Yeah yeah, it's no 6700k, but I do a lot of app-heavy stuff also)
CPU Cooler - ARCTIC COOLING Liquid Freezer 120 (Only planning on modest overclock)
Motherboard - MSI X99A GAMING PRO CARBON
RAM - G.SKILL TridentZ Series 32GB (14-14-14-34 timings and might overclock)
Monitor - Acer Predator XB271HU (Decided against the X34 since 21:9 gaming is too spotty)
Hard Drive - Samsung 950 PRO 512 GB
PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2
Case - Fractal Design Define R5 (Silent) Blackout Edition (w/ window)
OS: Windows 10 Professional
I also have about 22 TB worth of storage across 5 current drives that I'll be bringing over.
Awesome, thanks a lot!
Edit:
Cool thanks. Guess I'll be swapping it out soon.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Prime 95 seems to over around 75, Intel Burn Test has gone past 100. I just applied new TIM (Arctic Silver 5) and reseated the heatsink.
Just opened my box from Amazon to find a nice Asus wifi router inside instead of the Asus motherboard I ordered. Cool. It had been on sale for $105, now it's back up to $136... the cynical part of me wonders if that wasn't a fuck up. The items and their model #'s aren't even vaguely confusable with one another. There's no option to replace, so I'm pretty much screwed out of that sale price unless customer service fixes it. Back to the waiting game, hooray...
IMO the dot about the size of an uncooked rice. At least from everything I've looked up.
Customer Service will fix it and you won't need to pay more due to their mistake. Amazon has been good about it when they send the wrong item.
flipswitch
Member
I have my games on my 3TB HDD. I'm thinking of buying a Samsung 500gb SSD. Do I just copy and past my games ( steam folder) to the ssd in order to play them?
I'll be using this for games, but I've been speaking with someone and they said it won't make much difference with loading in games. Is this correct?
I'll be using this for games, but I've been speaking with someone and they said it won't make much difference with loading in games. Is this correct?
You can use something like SteamMover to move games you want to play to the SSD and back to HDD when done. It will make some in games that barely load, but a huge difference in ones that are constantly loading, like in open world games.
lostsupper
Banned
The conventional wisdom is that it really doesn't matter. But if the extra degree or two is worth it to you, spreading the paste works best, followed by the "x" method.
I've just built my PC (baring the graphics card which is on order).
But I've noticed that the fans (2* 120mm Corsair SP120L) in my Corsair H100i V2 AIO CPU cooler can get a bit loud when they spin up.
Would replacing them with 2 NF-F12 industrialPPC help? I want the Industrial range to match the colours of my PC and already have 2 140mm Noctua Industrial fans in my PC.
Also the Corsair fans are rated at 2700 RPM but the Noctua fans are rated at 2000 RPM (unless I get the 3000 RPM ones), would that make cooling worse? If I go for the 3000 RPM Noctua fans would they be even louder than the Corsair SP120L fans I have in my case already?
But I've noticed that the fans (2* 120mm Corsair SP120L) in my Corsair H100i V2 AIO CPU cooler can get a bit loud when they spin up.
Would replacing them with 2 NF-F12 industrialPPC help? I want the Industrial range to match the colours of my PC and already have 2 140mm Noctua Industrial fans in my PC.
Also the Corsair fans are rated at 2700 RPM but the Noctua fans are rated at 2000 RPM (unless I get the 3000 RPM ones), would that make cooling worse? If I go for the 3000 RPM Noctua fans would they be even louder than the Corsair SP120L fans I have in my case already?
Finally got my 1070!
But my tech support woes won't go away
After I put the new card inside, one of my hard drives started seeking all the time without any load. Is it dying?
Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43m3ib6NKWg
Also, is it normal for my card to sag quite a bit (like a centimeter or so)?
Extremely silents, And I get around 2 to 3 more times performance than before.
But my tech support woes won't go away
After I put the new card inside, one of my hard drives started seeking all the time without any load. Is it dying?
Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43m3ib6NKWg
Also, is it normal for my card to sag quite a bit (like a centimeter or so)?
Bloodember
Member
RPM isn't what you should be looking it, you want the air flow rating and for sound you want Dba.
Thanks. Looks like the current Corsair fan that came with the unit might be better for cooling.
The Corsair SP120L is 74.42CFM according to their site and the Noctua fan is 121.8mh/r which is 71.69CFM.
Although the Noctua fan is quieter 29.7Dba vs 37.68 Dba.
I can hear the Corsair fans would a drop 7-8Dba drop be noticeable or would it be better for to have 2-4CFM (the CPU isn't overclocked yet but I plan to overclock my i7 6700K from 4GHz to hopefully 4.5/4.6GHz).
flipswitch
Member
Once I move my files to another drive using steam mover, do I delete the original files and just leave the files on my new HDD?
Nevermind. It moved them.
Nevermind. It moved them.
No. After using Steam Mover, the files aren't on your old HDD. They are just shortcuts to the files on the new drive when you moved them. If you pay attention, you will notice the old drive space increase while your steam mover drive decreases.
RamaTheVoice
Member
Apparently it kind of depends on the CPU. Arctic Silver for example suggests a line down the middle of a Skylake chip.
You would be insane to run either fan at 2000, 2700 or even 3000rpm. Unless you want a PS4-level jet engine in your room
I'm not sure if the Corsair fans from your AIO are PWM so you can comfortably regulate them and set up a fan curve without hassle (Edit: They apparently are, try to toy around with the fancurve then). Definitely go for the PWM model of the Noctuas if you decide to pick them up and make sure you have two free PWM fan headers on your Mobo (or preferably, pick up a Y-splitter - Noctua sells them too - so you can regulate both fans on one header which makes sense since both go onto your rad anyway).
flipswitch
Member
Yep. So if I download a game from steam, it will go to my steam directory on my old HDD, I just use steam mover and move it to the new HDD?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Why the hassle? Just specify Steam to download it to the directory on the new drive.
Yeah. Or just copy the manifest and game folder to the steam library on the target drive if it's already downloaded.
I never understood why people bothered with using Steam Mover when you can perform a much cleaner approach by simply cut-pasting...
Yes. That's what I do.
I keep all my Steam games, currently over 3TB. Yes, I can download and install to my SSD, but once I am done, I still have to move them HDD. Comes out being the same.
Sure, you can do that, but Steam Mover is just 1 click. Makes it so much more simple to handle.
flipswitch
Member
One more question, should I enable rapid mode in my SSD? It's said to improve performance by using your system memory as cache.
Not from what I last read on Anandtech IIRC, might be outdated though
You would be insane to run either fan at 2000, 2700 or even 3000rpm. Unless you want a PS4-level jet engine in your room
I'm not sure if the Corsair fans from your AIO are PWM so you can comfortably regulate them and set up a fan curve without hassle (Edit: They apparently are, try to toy around with the fancurve then). Definitely go for the PWM model of the Noctuas if you decide to pick them up and make sure you have two free PWM fan headers on your Mobo (or preferably, pick up a Y-splitter - Noctua sells them too - so you can regulate both fans on one header which makes sense since both go onto your rad anyway).
Thanks.
The Corsair SP120L that came with my AIO cooler are PWM fans and connect to the CPU cooler but the CPU cooler which connects to my motherbord is only a 3pin connection. Is something strange going on there?
Should I connect the fans directly into the motherboard (can use a splitter or use both CPU fan connections) instead?
Jezbollah
Member
The Corsair fans that come with the H100i is controlled by the Corsair Link software and not via PWM. So that's the reason why you only have three pins connecting into the fan header.
The SP120L fans that come with the H series AIOs are notoriously loud. I replaced my H100i fans with Noctua NF F12 fans and even when under load I cannot hear them (then again, I have the Corsair 400Q case that has sound insulation..
EDIT: Dont buy a Noctua Y splitter as advised - they come with the fans as well as a low noise adapter.
The pump has its own PWM fan controller.
The pump uses a 3 pin connector to simply report the pump speed to the motherboard header.
Yautja_Warrior
Member
I've nearly done my Skylake build now, just need LED lighting and a few white braided PSU extension cables to tidy up the look a bit, I'm also using my GTX 760 as a stand in, until I get my GTX 1070.
All working fine apart from when I turn on XMP for the RAM, which causes the PC to not boot, heard a few people have problems with 3000MHz RAM, any advice would be great on that with voltages or any tweaks, if anyone else had the same issue ?
Edit - Scratch that question, bumped the RAM voltage up a little higher than 1.35 and its running at 3000MHz now, happy days.
Phanteks Enthoo Primo White
i7 6700k
Corsair H115i AiO Watercooler
GTX 760 (Temporary)
MSI Xpower Titanium Gaming Motherboard
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB 3000MHz
Samsung 128GB SSD
2TB Samsung Spinpoint HDD
2TB WD Green HDD
Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050W PSU
NZXT Sentry LX LCD Fan Controller
LG DVD Drive
LG Blu-ray Drive
All working fine apart from when I turn on XMP for the RAM, which causes the PC to not boot, heard a few people have problems with 3000MHz RAM, any advice would be great on that with voltages or any tweaks, if anyone else had the same issue ?
Edit - Scratch that question, bumped the RAM voltage up a little higher than 1.35 and its running at 3000MHz now, happy days.
Phanteks Enthoo Primo White
i7 6700k
Corsair H115i AiO Watercooler
GTX 760 (Temporary)
MSI Xpower Titanium Gaming Motherboard
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB 3000MHz
Samsung 128GB SSD
2TB Samsung Spinpoint HDD
2TB WD Green HDD
Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050W PSU
NZXT Sentry LX LCD Fan Controller
LG DVD Drive
LG Blu-ray Drive
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