You probably need that bios update to us XMP. Otherwise, try entering manually ram spec settings.
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You probably need that bios update to us XMP. Otherwise, try entering manually ram spec settings.
cebri.one
Member
Can't seem to change the voltage. I've tried putting everything on manual and nothing.
Also, getting a weird message when i exit the BIOS without saving. :S
edit: i've got DualBios so updating the bios should be a safe process right??
Yautja_Warrior
Member
Might want to look at the instruction manual for the bios stuff, or go to the manufactures website / forums for support, as I'm no expert on bios really.
But you should be able to change voltage settings normally, so that is strange, could be bios related, if a newer bios unlocks / adds features to it maybe but not sure about that to be honest
You can't change the ram voltage since XMP is selected.
cebri.one
Member
Even when the XMP is not selected i can't change the voltage.
Ok, thanks¡
Edit: I'm going to try updating the BIOS to the lastest version and see what happens.
Yautja_Warrior
Member
Ok, good luck.
Bjern Fita
Member
just did a first OC a few days ago and one thing that took me a while to sort when working in the bios is that sometimes (at least on Asus) you'll have to use the +/- buttons to adjust settings.
Give that a try if you cant seem to adjust any voltages etc. after changing to manual mode.
Likely you are looking in the wrong area, the voltages are all in one section.
In CPUz the ram freq should be 1500mhz.
Yautja_Warrior
Member
Good stuff, yeah it should be fine.
On CPU-Z, under the Memory Tab, DRAM Frequency should read around 1500MHz, as its dual channel, 1500MHz X2 = 3000MHz but if the bios is saying 3000 it should be running fine.
Lockjaw333
Member
I'm looking for a new mouse. I currently have a Logitech G400 that I quite like, but am looking for a replacement that will lift my wrist off my desk. Something with a larger backside so to speak so that my wrist is raised. I'm getting discomfort with my wrist contacting the desk.
I use a palm grip if that matters. I was looking at the Corsair M65 Pro RGB, it has what looks like a larger back end.
Any other suggestions?
I use a palm grip if that matters. I was looking at the Corsair M65 Pro RGB, it has what looks like a larger back end.
Any other suggestions?
Zowie EC1 or Razer Deathadder have a nice raised backside.
someone give this man a god damn cookie for everyone can do everything exactly the same!
if you read my post....they weren't color coded and even the markers were incorrectly set, meaning it wasn't showing you the correct places to put the wires.....but you know....
I finished building my new PC yesterday. Installed Windows 7 then started the update to Windows 10. Wake up this morning and Windows 10 is installed.
The problem now is that the computer refuses to shut down. It was shutting down fine with Windows 7, but now, The computer shuts down and automatically restarts after a few seconds. Anyone know how to fix this problem? I have googled and am finding people with similar issues but there doesn't seem to be a clear cut solution. I've tried a few of the things mentioned but can't get it to stop restarting after shutting down.
Motherboard is an Gigabyte H110M-A, if that matters.
The problem now is that the computer refuses to shut down. It was shutting down fine with Windows 7, but now, The computer shuts down and automatically restarts after a few seconds. Anyone know how to fix this problem? I have googled and am finding people with similar issues but there doesn't seem to be a clear cut solution. I've tried a few of the things mentioned but can't get it to stop restarting after shutting down.
Motherboard is an Gigabyte H110M-A, if that matters.
opticalmace
Member
Simple question. I have a Gigabyte GTX 960, and this is the back of the card.
Having 3 DisplayPorts, and 1 HDMI, could I in sense hook up 4 monitors at once if I wanted to?
Check the manual. I think you're normally limited to 3 displays at once.
So I'm building a PC for my sister and I'm looking for advice on possibly getting the price down. She's mainly going to be using it for video editing (nothing professional, just dabbling with it at the moment), light gaming and general web browsing.
Your Current Specs: None
Budget: Hoping to keep the price at around $1200 (Australian)
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming (3), Gaming(1), Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U) (1), Video Editing (2), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (5).
Monitor Resolution: 1080/60, will be buying a new monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 144? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? She's mostly interested in indies and other smaller stuff, so not a huge deal here.
Looking to reuse any parts?: I'll be donating my old GTX 760 which should be fine for her purposes for the time being.
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? ASAP
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.
Here's what I'm looking at atm:
http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/36VBZ8
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($332.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($208.00 @ IJK)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($86.90 @ Newegg Australia)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-EW MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($115.00 @ Umart)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($79.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($19.00 @ IJK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($137.00 @ Umart)
Total: $1163.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-28 02:41 AEST+1000
I don't have a monitor decided yet, so any advice on getting costs down would be greatly appreciated.
Your Current Specs: None
Budget: Hoping to keep the price at around $1200 (Australian)
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming (3), Gaming(1), Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U) (1), Video Editing (2), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (5).
Monitor Resolution: 1080/60, will be buying a new monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 144? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? She's mostly interested in indies and other smaller stuff, so not a huge deal here.
Looking to reuse any parts?: I'll be donating my old GTX 760 which should be fine for her purposes for the time being.
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? ASAP
Will you be overclocking?: Yes.
Here's what I'm looking at atm:
http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/36VBZ8
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($332.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($208.00 @ IJK)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($86.90 @ Newegg Australia)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-EW MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($115.00 @ Umart)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($79.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($19.00 @ IJK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($137.00 @ Umart)
Total: $1163.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-28 02:41 AEST+1000
I don't have a monitor decided yet, so any advice on getting costs down would be greatly appreciated.
I got a used i5 2500k and a 212 evo cooler to compliment my new GTX 1060.
I didn't want to mess with taking out the entire mobo so i installed both my new CPU and that f#*king fan while everything was still in the case. The tl;dr version is I did an absolute shit job and had a tough time getting that cooler installed properly; the screws just wouldn't line up and, as a result, I ended up smearing my thermal paste all over the damn place as the cooler slid around, got lifted up and placed back down multiple times. It was awful, and my wife got to see me lose my temper and cuss like a kid throwing a fit.
Anyway, my dignity went out the window and I realized I'm a total noob, but I really just need to know that everything is going to be okay. Everything booted up fine, the fan is working, I set the CPU multiplier to 40 and then played some Star Wars Battlefront with everything maxed out. Everything seems stable, but is there any chance that the thermal paste could screw me over? It kind of got everywhere, including the little door and hinge that close on top of the CPU. Could any of that goop drip down, or does it dry pretty quickly? I only did about a pea-sized glob in the middle of the CPU so there wasn't a lot of excess.
I didn't want to mess with taking out the entire mobo so i installed both my new CPU and that f#*king fan while everything was still in the case. The tl;dr version is I did an absolute shit job and had a tough time getting that cooler installed properly; the screws just wouldn't line up and, as a result, I ended up smearing my thermal paste all over the damn place as the cooler slid around, got lifted up and placed back down multiple times. It was awful, and my wife got to see me lose my temper and cuss like a kid throwing a fit.
Anyway, my dignity went out the window and I realized I'm a total noob, but I really just need to know that everything is going to be okay. Everything booted up fine, the fan is working, I set the CPU multiplier to 40 and then played some Star Wars Battlefront with everything maxed out. Everything seems stable, but is there any chance that the thermal paste could screw me over? It kind of got everywhere, including the little door and hinge that close on top of the CPU. Could any of that goop drip down, or does it dry pretty quickly? I only did about a pea-sized glob in the middle of the CPU so there wasn't a lot of excess.
Its working, which means nothing to worry about.
Use a program like coretemp or hwmonitor to verify the CPU temps.
If she doesn't have to have WIFI then go with this mobo, added a cooler with the price included.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($332.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($49.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($185.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($86.90 @ Newegg Australia)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Silverstone TJ08B-EW MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($115.00 @ Umart)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($79.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($19.00 @ IJK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($137.00 @ Umart)
Total: $1189.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-28 03:41 AEST+1000
I ordered a Noctua NH-D14 from Amazon over the weekend, and it hasn't shipped yet. I'm wondering if I should go with liquid cooling though? Looking for opinions.
System:
CPU: i7 6700k
GPU: Gigabyte 1070 Windforce
RAM: G Skill DDR4 16GB 3000 MHz
Case: NZXT 340
I think I'm fine with the real estate the D14 will take up, but should I just go liquid anyway? I'd want something that's fairly easy to install. My aim is to get the 6700k running at 4.5 GHz, but I would go higher if I could.
Thoughts?
System:
CPU: i7 6700k
GPU: Gigabyte 1070 Windforce
RAM: G Skill DDR4 16GB 3000 MHz
Case: NZXT 340
I think I'm fine with the real estate the D14 will take up, but should I just go liquid anyway? I'd want something that's fairly easy to install. My aim is to get the 6700k running at 4.5 GHz, but I would go higher if I could.
Thoughts?
Jezbollah
Member
If you are wanting to overclock then you really should consider a AIO watercooler. Your case will give you ample room for it.
If you want to go liquid, go with a custom loop or a high quality AIO like EK Predator or Swiftech H-series. Don't waste money on Corsair etc stuff, your NH-D14 will perform equally or even better while producing less noise in idle (given a proper fan curve) and is cheaper to begin with.
I'm running a 4790k overclocked to 4,5GHz with a D14 and it barely scratched 70°C under 100% rendering load during the hottest summer day so far. And that is with the fans at like 40~50%.
As far as installation goes, it's useful to have a helping hand but I've re-installed the heatpipe twice alone so far and it worked fine.
You might want to consider the newer D15 model though I don't know how much of a difference in cooling performance it offers.
And the cheapest 240mm Corsair AIO is 50 bucks more expensive than the D14 (atleast over here). If that difference is worth the slightly less complicated installation and 'cleaner' look to the poster is up to them. Just providing my input.
I don't get posts like these a custom loop is way more expensive then an AIO and the D14 is not as easy to install as one of the AIO. AIO generally look more appealing or cleaner also.
Thanks for all your input! I considered the D15 but from what I've read, it will not fit in the NZXT 340.
Hey guys i need a bit of help to choose a RX 480 for my current pc. My current case is a Bitfenix Phenom m so its a Matx build. I was set on getting the Sapphire RX 480 Nitro OC+ but i dont know if the Blowerfan on the stock card would be preferred because of the lower airflow in my smaller case? I value a card with good Performance and low fan noise as i play mostly with Speakers. Also here in Denmark the price difference between the stock card and the Nitro is 60$ so i dont know if an undervolted and overclocked stock card is a better choice? I also looked at the Powercolor Devil but sadly i think the card is too long. The case can take 320mm/12.6inch cards but the problem is my AX850 PSU that i think is too big because of the detachable cables taking up some space. It was a tight fit with my old Powercolor R9 290 PCS+ and that was a shorter card :/
super-famicom
Member
Just a few more things and I can start building. The problem with PC building(this is my first) is that I see more stuff everyday that I want or want to change..Like now I need another monitor and maybe a new desk as well.
Hey, I have the same case! It's a beauty.
Broadbandito
Member
Does anyone have a phanteks case with the pre-installed mobo stand-offs? If you do, do you know if they are replaceable? My pci cards don't fit and I think it's due to this. Haven't had a chance to take everything apart and check yet.
GAF please help me I'm ignorant as hell about PC's and mine got stolen a few weeks ago. I'm gonna have to get a laptop for the last semester at college and for the future so I was thinking of getting something relatively nice.
Since I like games I'd figure I could get something that would let me run current gen indie games, not interested in getting something that can match the PS4 for the high end games.
I took some pictures from a webpage that got recommended for me and my budget is between $350-500 CLP which is roughly between 500 and 800 dollars.
PLEASE SOMEBODY SKIM THROUGH THE ALBUM and tell me of any that seems good enough. Quality build, medium size are all that matters to me.
https://imgur.com/a/YgVvK
Since I like games I'd figure I could get something that would let me run current gen indie games, not interested in getting something that can match the PS4 for the high end games.
I took some pictures from a webpage that got recommended for me and my budget is between $350-500 CLP which is roughly between 500 and 800 dollars.
PLEASE SOMEBODY SKIM THROUGH THE ALBUM and tell me of any that seems good enough. Quality build, medium size are all that matters to me.
https://imgur.com/a/YgVvK
1100 is plenty. Recent graphics card releases (AMD 480/Nvidia 1060) will handle 1080p60 pretty easily for ~250USD (higher in Europe, I know). Are you looking at a console form factor, or a classic tower?
Something like this: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/bCrYHN
would do very well at 1080p60 and in VR. The case is similar in size to the original Xbox One.
Here is a standard desktop with more storage, better airflow, and a faster CPU + memory: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/HsmFGf
If the IO shield fits then it isnt the standoffs. Use some force if its a couple of mm.
Apologies for the silly question but I can't find a definitive answer online!
I have used EVGA Precision X to OC my GPU. I have applied my desired clock speeds and it has been successful, and I am happy. If I close the program, do the clock speeds stay applied? Or do I need to have the program running at all times/at start up for the changes to stay implemented?
Thanks.
I have used EVGA Precision X to OC my GPU. I have applied my desired clock speeds and it has been successful, and I am happy. If I close the program, do the clock speeds stay applied? Or do I need to have the program running at all times/at start up for the changes to stay implemented?
Thanks.
Just a few more things and I can start building. The problem with PC building(this is my first) is that I see more stuff everyday that I want or want to change..Like now I need another monitor and maybe a new desk as well.
If you plan to OC, you may want to consider a different PSU. I have the exact same PSU and read that these are "not for gaming rigs or overclocking systems of any kind".
Hey again all.
I'm having some case second thoughts.I purchased a Core V51 from Thermaltake but I wonder if it might be a bit too big for my needs. However I really liked that it had removable filters and 3 fans, which was a big selling point for me.
ON the other hand, I was looking further into the V31 and really like the options it has for SSDs on the back behind the MoBo. But I don't think it has as nice dust filters and I have heard the build quality isn't that great.
Originally, I wanted a Corsair R100 due to it's simple looks but something swayed me away from it. Does anyone know if it has dust filters?
My case requirements are:
Front panel audio and USB 3.0.
Simple design like the R100
Cable Management
Dust filters.
Price around $50-$70.
Anyone have any thoughts. For those who have the ones about, what do you think? How is the R100?
Im still waiting for my parts but hope to have them all to build by this weekend.
I'm having some case second thoughts.I purchased a Core V51 from Thermaltake but I wonder if it might be a bit too big for my needs. However I really liked that it had removable filters and 3 fans, which was a big selling point for me.
ON the other hand, I was looking further into the V31 and really like the options it has for SSDs on the back behind the MoBo. But I don't think it has as nice dust filters and I have heard the build quality isn't that great.
Originally, I wanted a Corsair R100 due to it's simple looks but something swayed me away from it. Does anyone know if it has dust filters?
My case requirements are:
Front panel audio and USB 3.0.
Simple design like the R100
Cable Management
Dust filters.
Price around $50-$70.
Anyone have any thoughts. For those who have the ones about, what do you think? How is the R100?
Im still waiting for my parts but hope to have them all to build by this weekend.
My RAM won't allow my computer to post in dual channel, only single.
Is there any way I can find out if it's the motherboard or the RAM that's the problem? I only have these two sticks, and a pair of DDR3 RAM but that's not compatible with this motherboard anyway, so can't test that. Would prefer not buying a new pair without knowing.
Is there any way I can find out if it's the motherboard or the RAM that's the problem? I only have these two sticks, and a pair of DDR3 RAM but that's not compatible with this motherboard anyway, so can't test that. Would prefer not buying a new pair without knowing.
Yeah, I'm about to switch my air cooler (D15) out for a water cooler (Kraken X61). This is my situation:
The motherboard only has x16 on the top and third slots. The top slot has maybe 2mm clearance from the cooler and the fan clips would touch the GPU, so I have a little non-conductive silicone rubber mat in there in the mean time to avoid any accidental damage. Looking forward to a cleaner look!
You don't think it would be ok for a 6700k and 1070 setup? I'm not going SLI or anything. Probably some VR down the road.
Those are the same chips I have but plan to swap out my PSU this weekend.
That bit I quoted earlier is from the link found below. It was linked from an overclocking guide at Toms Hardware
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html
NZXT S340 hand down. I love mine. Room for two 140mm fans up front, dust filter, Front 2x USB 3.0 and audio. $70.
Potato Pic:
Good Pic:
super-famicom
Member
NZXT S340 hand down. I love mine. Room for two 140mm fans up front, dust filter, Front 2x USB 3.0 and audio. $70.
Potato Pic:
Good Pic:
+1 for the S340. Really nice case, though I can't get the front panel audio to work for some reason. It doesn't really matter, since I use a USB DAC/Amp combo anyways.
Just test each stick in each slot on its own. If it fails then it's one of the ram modules. If not then it's probably the board.
Ive built in the TJ08E, nice case but awful HDD placement.
My recommendations
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($332.00 @ Centre Com)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($86.90 @ Newegg Australia)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.00 @ IJK)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($135.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($79.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($19.00 @ IJK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($137.00 @ Umart)
Total: $1107.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-28 08:29 AEST+1000
It's fine but not highly rated or viewed upon well from the community. That goes for all the CX range and below really. Not the best quality capacitors like only rated to 35c (iirc) which means more likely to go pop. Plus not the best ripple suppression which means a CPU OC will be hampered on the bleeding edge. There's lots of alternatives in the same price range that didn't "cheap" out. It'll probably never effect you though, but the thoughts are there.
I use MSI afterburner, it needs to be on startup and the option "enable OC on startup" to be ticked. Probably similar in EVGA Precision X. If this is a GTX 9 series card you can do a bios mod to get around this.
NZXT S340 hand down. I love mine. Room for two 140mm fans up front, dust filter, Front 2x USB 3.0 and audio. $70.
Potato Pic:
Good Pic:
I saw that case and actually really liked it. But! It doesn't seem to take a cd drive on the front (unless I am mistaken?) and I actually have a a Plextor Burner I use.
Lately I've had the urge to upgrade some parts of my PC or just go full blast and get into Skylake territory with board/CPU/memory replacement.
However each time I go on the market and check about all available options I become alienated. I don't know why. It seems to me that PC tech has stagnated in recent years.
I currently have the legendary i5 2500k with an AMD 7950 boost.
At 1080p, there is very little I can't run at satisfactory FPS. Hence there is very little drive to update for reasons of poor performances.
Then I tell myself maybe it is time to upgrade to 4k/1440p. But then I read that the current midrange graphic card aren't really comfortable yet at those resolutions. Then there is the tie in stupidity of gsync vs free sync. Whoever thought it was a great idea to make monitors be only compatible with a company needs to get slapped. Let alone the prices of these monitors is ridiculous.
I just feels it is not yet (this feels like a decade since I have built) wort it to upgrade. Or that there is no compelling technology advance that justifies an upgrade. Oh, and I wasn't impressed at all by virtual reality. I don't think it is ready.
However each time I go on the market and check about all available options I become alienated. I don't know why. It seems to me that PC tech has stagnated in recent years.
I currently have the legendary i5 2500k with an AMD 7950 boost.
At 1080p, there is very little I can't run at satisfactory FPS. Hence there is very little drive to update for reasons of poor performances.
Then I tell myself maybe it is time to upgrade to 4k/1440p. But then I read that the current midrange graphic card aren't really comfortable yet at those resolutions. Then there is the tie in stupidity of gsync vs free sync. Whoever thought it was a great idea to make monitors be only compatible with a company needs to get slapped. Let alone the prices of these monitors is ridiculous.
I just feels it is not yet (this feels like a decade since I have built) wort it to upgrade. Or that there is no compelling technology advance that justifies an upgrade. Oh, and I wasn't impressed at all by virtual reality. I don't think it is ready.
Do not buy anything until you yourself see value in it. From your concerns, stay put. You might consider a newer GPU and overclock the 2500k or jump to a 2600k/3770k since the freesync/Gsync train will take many years to clear up.
So I replaced my g3220 with a i3-4160. When I first turned the computer on, it went to boot for a few seconds, restarted, then shut down again when it started loading Windows. When I tried turning it on again, it booted up normally, and a few days later it seems to be working fine.
Anyone know why it seemed to have some trouble the first time running?
Also, is it normal for the CPU fan to rev up so high on boot before settling down again? I didn't even notice with the previous processor, but it stands out with the new one using the stock fan.
Anyone know why it seemed to have some trouble the first time running?
Also, is it normal for the CPU fan to rev up so high on boot before settling down again? I didn't even notice with the previous processor, but it stands out with the new one using the stock fan.
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