Ones in the OP
Like do you NEED any of the extra features or not?
If no, get a less expensive board.
No reason to go Broadwell at that price imo. Here is Skylake build with nearly the same components http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/g6xK4C
You can swap the motherboard for an ATX one, as your case does seem to support them too. The selection of mATX motherboards isn't that great. Just make sure it is Z170 if you want to overclock.
I have a ATX form motherboard, may be buying an air cooler that's somewhat excessive in clearance requirements (roughly 170mm I think) I also didn't I don't want to do any water cooling-- in that case, should I be looking at cases that don't have compatibility with water cooling? Is that a way to save money on the case purchase? Don't mind Newegg's price on the case, but if I am spending money on a case where I don't plan on watercooling, just wonder if I should be looking at cases without that feature, or maybe they're all built for watercooling, I don't know.It's one of the more feature packed full tower cases. Great for the money. What are your specs? I'd say get a case around your needs and what you plan on having in the rest of your rig.
Thanks!
I'll have a look at this after work and see what things I can order. I'll might err and remove the cooler and tone down the RAM and pick-up the cost of a win10 OEM.
You have to get a cpu cooler, the K processors don't come with one. I'd also stick with at least 16GB of RAM.
Goddamn; I just upgraded from an i5-3570K to an i7-6700K this weekend.
I can watch a Twitch stream and play a game at the same time; it's using less than 10% of my CPU o_o With my 3570K I would have been using 100% for sure. My temps aren't going past 60 degrees as well since I switched out my 212 EVO to a Noctua NH-U12S. Life is good 8)
I've attempted to slightly overclock my CPU (Intel Core i7 6700K with a Corsair Hydro H100i V2 CPU AIO cooler). I've set it to 4.6GHz from 4GHz. I didn't want to push it too far or increase noise.
I ran a few stress tests (Cinebench and some CPU-Z load tests) and so far it seems OK. The highest temps my CPU got to under load was 75c (core #1 and the package overall) and 74c (core #0) the others stayed under 68c max but those were only for very brief seconds. I also didn't really hear my fans kick in.
I got a Cinebench score of 993 and my PC has been on for a few hours since and I've been doing some light tasks such as running Chrome with about 5-10 tabs, downloading some games through Steam and Battle Net and had Outlook and Skype running with my temps around 35c to 45c.
Is this OK?
I'm currently using a geforce 670 but I' ve been looking to upgrade to a radeon 480 AIB. The thing is that they seem to fetch quite a high price here in Sweden (3200SEK for saphire Nitro OC version) so I started looking at other solutions. I found a deal on a saphire 390x nitro for 2690SEK. i.e ~20% cheaper and from what I understand a better performer
I currenlty use a 550W power supply so I guess I have to upgrade that one if I'm to buy the 390x. What do you say? Is it worth it?
Hey guys! Could need some help here.
As I stopped PC gaming 3 years ago, and my old build (Dec. 2009) finally bit the dust part after part, I'm in for a new machine. Sadly I don't know anything about hardware newer than ~2012/13.
- NEEDS TO BE AS SILENT AS POSSIBLE
- Building everything from scratch (besides OS)
- Budget up to 600
- Won't do anything besides netflixin 10hrs a day, listening to music & a little working with light programs which don't requiere GPU power nor more than 8gig of ram and a dual core CPU
What would be a good, silent always on machine?
I'm thinking about something like a intelNUC / zotacbox or something in that size, but how silent are these things when i turn down the fanspeed to 1%?
Or is it cheaper/better to get a small itx rig? I don't want to overheat stuff & I can't stand loud fans, so i always turn them down as low as possible.
Would it be cleverer to go the AMD-route with int. GPU? I believe the most expensive AMD CPU with int. GPU should be powerful enough & cheaper than a lowbudget intel & a GPU? Or how good are those GPUs built in in the cheapest i3 series?
Also, will want a SSD as main drive for OS and programs (250GB should do the trick) and a second one which doesn't need to be plugged in all the time (maybe even a external one) for movies/pictures/documents.
Thanks in advance guys!
I've attempted to slightly overclock my CPU (Intel Core i7 6700K with a Corsair Hydro H100i V2 CPU AIO cooler). I've set it to 4.6GHz from 4GHz. I didn't want to push it too far or increase noise.
I ran a few stress tests (Cinebench and some CPU-Z load tests) and so far it seems OK. The highest temps my CPU got to under load was 75c (core #1 and the package overall) and 74c (core #0) the others stayed under 68c max but those were only for very brief seconds. I also didn't really hear my fans kick in.
I got a Cinebench score of 993 and my PC has been on for a few hours since and I've been doing some light tasks such as running Chrome with about 5-10 tabs, downloading some games through Steam and Battle Net and had Outlook and Skype running with my temps around 35c to 45c.
Is this OK?
It should also give you better performance in certain games. Way better performance.
i7 Skylakes tend to get very hot when overclocking. Up to 80°C is still sort of fine while under heavy (and long) load but going cooler is always preferable. In general: Clock speed isn't your enemy when overclocking, only temperature and voltage is. And I'm guessing the second one could be the problem for you here (Voltage translates into heat).
In general you shouldn't overclock with vcore settings set to auto. Because your mainboard will apply significantly more voltage to your cpu than necessary to guarantee stability. Take note of your voltage levels during high load scenarios and try to lower them step by step (-10mv/step) and check again for stability. That will obviously take some time and a lot of work but it's worth it in the end. For example I was able to lower voltage on my 6700k (4.5 ghz) down to 1.265v and temperature down to 65°C (from 69°C) because of this (and that_s with air cooling, btw). When tweaking your processor near it's highest overclock, keep in mind that for an increase of 100 MHz, a corresponding increase of approximately 40 to 50 millivolts is required. So my guess is that you should be able to lower your core voltage down to 1.320v. But of course every processor is unique so there is no guarantee for that. No matter what you do, you shouldn't go above 1.35v.
Also keep overclocking in perspective: The difference between 4.5 and 4.6 ghz is ~2% and it's not worth it to apply a significant higher amount of voltage (and to increase temperature) because of it, at least imo.
Its ok, maybe a little hotter than some when running a H100i V2 but its withing safe temps. What voltage do you have your CPU at for the overclock ? High voltage will cause more heat.
Stress testing will generally cause more heat too, so temps shouldn't go too high with normal usage. Other things to help bring the temps down a little is change settings in Corsair Link to set a custom fan curve for the H100i, so it stays cool enough but fans will speed up a little if temps rise.
Also if your overclock is 100% stable, you could set Windows Power mode to balanced and in the Bios set the CPU voltage to adaptive, so the CPU down clocks / down volts when not in heavy use, no real need to have it running at 4.6GHz at full voltage all the time, it will just speed up as needed.
I have the H115i, so a slightly bigger radiator than the H100i V2 and on my 6700k I get idle temps of around 19c - 20c and when stress testing I got around 61c - 62c with a CPU voltage of 1.350v
Hey guys! Could need some help here.
As I stopped PC gaming 3 years ago, and my old build (Dec. 2009) finally bit the dust part after part, I'm in for a new machine. Sadly I don't know anything about hardware newer than ~2012/13.
- NEEDS TO BE AS SILENT AS POSSIBLE
- Building everything from scratch (besides OS)
- Budget up to 600€
- Won't do anything besides netflixin 10hrs a day, listening to music & a little working with light programs which don't requiere GPU power nor more than 8gig of ram and a dual core CPU
What would be a good, silent always on machine?
I'm thinking about something like a intelNUC / zotacbox or something in that size, but how silent are these things when i turn down the fanspeed to 1%?
Or is it cheaper/better to get a small itx rig? I don't want to overheat stuff & I can't stand loud fans, so i always turn them down as low as possible.
Would it be cleverer to go the AMD-route with int. GPU? I believe the most expensive AMD CPU with int. GPU should be powerful enough & cheaper than a lowbudget intel & a GPU? Or how good are those GPUs built in in the cheapest i3 series?
Also, will want a SSD as main drive for OS and programs (250GB should do the trick) and a second one which doesn't need to be plugged in all the time (maybe even a external one) for movies/pictures/documents.
Thanks in advance guys!
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/63LgJV
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/63LgJV/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i 57.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.88 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($113.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($34.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case w/450W Power Supply ($129.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $519.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-02 05:13 EDT-0400
Yeah. I would say a miniPC is the best suit here for you. You want to connect it to your TV or an extra monitor?
Low power consumption, WiFi, about as big as the xobx one, silent and definitely strong enough for streaming, basic work and light gaming at 720p. If you want to you could get the pentium g4500 instead of the i3, but if you ever decide to get a gpu the i3 will be the better match and the price difference isn't huge.
Thanks for the help, I was slightly worried to attempt an overclock but I'm glad people here can advise me
The voltage is set to 1.31. I used this YouTube video and copied the setting exactly as the person in the video has the exact same CPU and motherboard as I do (although I think they have a better CPU cooler).
I am running with the stock SP12 fans and when I tested them to run at full speed they sounded really noisy. When I ran the basic stress tests (going to run Aida64 and some others over the weekend if this settings seem OK) I couldn't hear them spinning. I'd like a small bump but nothing that would cause long term damage or cause the fans to kick in really loud when gaming.
Also the spikes to 70C and over were only for very short periods and lasted less than a second each time.
At first it'll be connected to my current 23" PC monitor, but will buy a TV around christmas as I can't stand gaming on that small screen from the couch with the PS4.
I'll for 100% sure not decide to ever play any games on this rig.
If I ever switch back to the pc masterrace I won't mind spending 1-2k on a gaming rig again which suits me for years, but this machine isn't more than a always-on streaming/music device
At first it'll be connected to my current 23" PC monitor, but will buy a TV around christmas as I can't stand gaming on that small screen from the couch with the PS4.
I'll for 100% sure not decide to ever play any games on this rig.
If I ever switch back to the pc masterrace I won't mind spending 1-2k on a gaming rig again which suits me for years, but this machine isn't more than a always-on streaming/music device
Than you could get the Pentium instead of the i3, but it's not that huge of a difference and you're anyway way below your $600 limit.
Yup, have thought about that too. But I'd miss the option to use Office & Firefox, backup my iPhone & save my photos & videos like I did on my PC.Have you thought about a media box that plays netflix and external movies/music? Maybe this is better suited. Something like the Amazon Fire TV or something more open.
My setup
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770, Socket 1155 LGA
RAM: 12,0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24) (1 Kingston DDR3 8GB + 1 Kingston DDR3 4GB)
Motherboard: Intel Corporation DH61BF (AAG81311-101)
GPU (Graphics): ZOTAC GTX 660 (Using HDMI and DVI outputs)
PSU (Power Supply): 750W Thermaltake. I don't remember the model.
Case: I don't remember.
HDD (Hard Drive): 931GB (1TB) Seagate ST1000DM003-9YN162 (SATA)
I have 4 fans of 220mm with 4 leds each.
Saying that, I'm looking to upgrade to an GTX 980 TI SC.
My PC is fully compatible, or do I need to do some changes? What changes?
Looking at some mid sized PC's like the alienware Aurora and the origin chronos. Heard the chronos runs hot because it's so small. Any impressions in here? I don't want to build a PC
It's just an example of a game mistakenly adding the pools of VRAM together when it should know better.
Not in terms of raw processing power, no. If presently you're happy with 4GB VRAM and the current state of SLI support, then I'd wait a while longer and see how the 1080 Ti fares (it should hit before the end of the year).
Yeah, you'd need a new motherboard. 1155 has well and truly been phased out (Intel's Ivy Bridge/3000-series processors were its swan song).
If someone could help me id be grateful ,I ordered this component Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply from mindfactory Germany but their outtastock and have to use site credit on something else
Heres the pc Im building
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (238.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (36.40 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-XP SLI Motherboard (106.80 @ Mindfactory)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (86.34 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Sandisk Z400s 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (62.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card (268.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (77.40 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (92.42 @ Mindfactory)
Website I have to use with site credit
http://www.mindfactory.de
ANY HELP Appreciated
I alologize for repeating a question but I'm still trying to figure this out:
I have a Gigabyte Ga-z170xp-sli mother board and I got my GTX 1070 in the first PCI Express x16 slot and a Sound Blaster ZX in PCI E Slot 3. Is the sound card taking part of the video card band width or am I still getting 16x for my video card?
My best guess is the answer is no but I want to be sure.
I need a new power supplyfrom web site listed I explained it at start of postThis looks exactly like my build, except I used the Samsung Evo 850 250GB SSD, and an EVGA GTX 1060 SC. everything runs well for me, what did you need help with?
It's compatible.
But I'd still change the ram setup. Uneven modules aren't optimal for ddr ram. Try getting 2x8 ddr3 prepacked modules. The faster the better.
Would this suffice for my buildThis looks exactly like my build, except I used the Samsung Evo 850 250GB SSD, and an EVGA GTX 1060 SC. everything runs well for me, what did you need help with?
Yes, that will work.Would this suffice for my build
http://www.mindfactory.de/product_i...SuperNOVA-650GQ-Modular-80--Gold_1061356.html
Sound card is probably using 1 lane at most. Your graphics card is still getting 16.
EDIT: You can confirm what the bus is running at with like GPU-Z.
Thanks. I haven't had a chance to download much in the way of monitoring software yet.
What's a good one for CPUs? (I can't get CoreTemp to load.)
ThanksYes, that will work.
Is it too soon to ask about builds that I possibly may not be able to build until mid 2017 or very early 2018?
I just would like a ballpark price that I would be spending. I'm going to keep my current monitor so 4k gaming won't be necessary to me.
I can post my current PC's specs when I'm home.
Definitely too soon, as parts can change weekly. You want to start thinking about the exact build around 2 weeks before pulling the trigger. Keep an eye on this forum for changes in hardware once you get closer. You'll be able to put together a great computer around that time with all the new tech coming out next year.