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[Kudo]

Yeah, I know. The tech guy who helped me building it (super smart with computers) said I needed a connector with tinier "center pin" or something. Like the biggest of the "pins", the sharp things that stick out needs to be smaaler/tinier.

Picture:

The stick/pin thing that is circled with red is too big on the VGA connector, so I need one connector with a smaller/tinier one.

I don't think the removing any of the pins will make a difference here, and VGA is completely different connector from DVI. Cards before accepted analog through DVI which is digital interface, the new cards now don't do that.
Honestly I'd recommend looking into monitor that has DP/DVI/HDMI cause all kinds of converters decrease the image quality and VGA isn't that great to begin with, but this doesn't really help your problem.

I did some quick googling and GTX 1080 should be able to run VGA signal through Displayport:
http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answ...geforce-gtx-1080/1070/1060-since-i-only-see-a

So you will need something like:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K49SZTK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012QOQU3I/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Be aware that these limit the monitor running into Full HD resolution or lower, and their quality probably isn't the best.

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

Trying to figure out why when I'm running Prime95, my voltage settings don't match what I have set in bios. I have 1.33 set, but it always sits around 1.31. I have an i7 6700k with a Gigabyte motherboard (GA-Z170XP-SLI), and the only settings I've changed are setting multiplier to 45, vcore to 1.33, LLC to high, disabled turboboost, disabled all c states except for C1E, enabled speedstep (EIST)....yeah, I think that's it.

I'm trying to get a higher overclock than 4.5 actually, but it seems my voltages are holding me back. I did notice they max out at around 1.4, but those seem to just be spikes.

vdroop

just make sure you have the LLC to the right setting. Sometimes motherboards are weird.

 

[fantomena]

I don't think the removing any of the pins will make a difference here, and VGA is completely different connector from DVI. Cards before accepted analog through DVI which is digital interface, the new cards now don't do that.
Honestly I'd recommend looking into monitor that has DP/DVI/HDMI cause all kinds of converters decrease the image quality and VGA isn't that great to begin with, but this doesn't really help your problem.

I did some quick googling and GTX 1080 should be able to run VGA signal through Displayport:
http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answ...geforce-gtx-1080/1070/1060-since-i-only-see-a

So you will need something like:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K49SZTK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012QOQU3I/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Be aware that these limit the monitor running into Full HD resolution or lower, and their quality probably isn't the best.

Thank you very much for the help. I'll see tommorrow what I do.

 

[Kudo]

Thank you very much for the help. I'll see tommorrow what I do.

Not a problem, I'm not an expert so it's probably good idea to run it through the tech guy before buying anything expensive.

 

[Ampersands]

Planning on doing a build next year. Is there anything in the pipeline to expect like a new CPU architecture or something like that?

 

[TheSeks]

You could go this route:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($62.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($289.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $442.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-08 12:47 EDT-0400

Or for around $700 resusing your CPU cooler, PSU, Case and HDD. This will run High-Ultra at 1080 easily.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($198.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($114.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($43.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GAMING Video Card ($284.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $732.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-08 13:00 EDT-0400

My i5 currently wouldn't cut the mustard unless I overclock extensively? I mean I can do that, but if your second option is basically a "complete" rebuild, that'd be fine as well. Though I'm not sure if my CPU and my GTX 760 is worth anything in getting the money back at this point. *laugh*

The first option works in terms of cheapness.

My major worry is getting the damn heatsink back on. I had two others help me build this three years ago and it took BOTH of them together to get the fucking heatsink onto the motherboard and screwed in. I can't imagine having to redo that by replacing the CPU. :|

 

[vector824]

My i5 currently wouldn't cut the mustard unless I overclock extensively? I mean I can do that, but if your second option is basically a "complete" rebuild, that'd be fine as well. Though I'm not sure if my CPU and my GTX 760 is worth anything in getting the money back at this point. *laugh*

The first option works in terms of cheapness.

My major worry is getting the damn heatsink back on. I had two others help me build this three years ago and it took BOTH of them together to get the fucking heatsink onto the motherboard and screwed in. I can't imagine having to redo that by replacing the CPU. :|

It should still be "fine" for the next year or so. You can always go for the 1060 now, if the current i5 doesn't cut it to your liking then upgrade. I would definitely get the faster ram also, maybe leave out the SSD for now.

Yeah heatsinks are a PIA.

It's a $290 difference though... I'd just upgrade.

 

[opticalmace]

So, I know I got two replies when I posted this but I got the actual stuff (outside of RAM but the general) now:



I don't care about VR and so long as I'm able to run the "next-gen"/PS4 requirements that want more than 6Gig RAM stuff at 60FPS 1080P, I'm cool.

Like someone said: I could probably overclock my CPU and just upgrade the RAM and GPU (which I planned to do), but if you guys recommend completely overhauling I guess I could do that... though if I could save money and have this hardware last another 2-3 years, that'd be good for me. I'm not sure of the state of DX12/Vulkan and GPU's which is why I've been waiting until now about upgrading parts or doing a total rebuild.

Halp?

Overclock your cpu and just get a new video card. Maybe a 1060 or 1070.

 

[leng jai]

Last decision before I order my new PC:

Fractal Design R5 vs Design S vs Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Tempered Glass ATX

My current PC is using a R3 so a change would be nice even though it was a great case. The Evolv looks good but costs $100 more and looks slightly less practical. The price doesn't concern me that much.

I can't decide. Anyone had a similar dilemma?

 

[Swig_]

Has anyone built a decent Plex server recently? I'm using an old Dell Optiplex with a Core2 Duo. I'm considering build a new one, depending on the costs, but I'm not sure what would be ideal as far as costs, as I've only really built top of the line gaming PCs.

I'm thinking something like an i5 with 8gb ram, but I'm not even sure which i5. I'd like it to be in as small of a case as possible, so fan space, etc would be important. I also have a spare 750TI that I can put in it (it has a low profile bracket), but I'm thinking integrated video would be fine.

 

[Elitist1945]

Guys how to I stop my PC from making me sign in with my Microsoft account password when I boot it up from shut down or sleep? I turned that option off in settings a while ago but it persists and now that I've changed my password to a long ass combo of letters and numbers I really don't want to have to keep doing this.

 

[TheSeks]

Overclock your cpu and just get a new video card. Maybe a 1060 or 1070.

It should still be "fine" for the next year or so. You can always go for the 1060 now, if the current i5 doesn't cut it to your liking then upgrade. I would definitely get the faster ram also, maybe leave out the SSD for now.

Yeah heatsinks are a PIA.

It's a $290 difference though... I'd just upgrade.

Well, that's the thing: If I could upgrade for cheaper and have it last 2-3 years, that'd be great. But if you're telling me it's gonna last only for a while and the total rebuild with a few parts I can use to save cash will last me 3-5 years for a bit more, I might as well just spend the cash and hassle with the heatsink instead of overclocking.

But I'm not sure if any of my parts (especially the 760) is worth anything back in regards to investment at this point for lower-spec/MOBA people.

Guys how to I stop my PC from making me sign in with my Microsoft account password when I boot it up from shut down or sleep? I turned that option off in settings a while ago but it persists and now that I've changed my password to a long ass combo of letters and numbers I really don't want to have to keep doing this.

Local account. Never a MS account. Unless you're already a local account in which case: Uh... panic, because I haven't had it force that ever.

 

[Elitist1945]

Local account. Never a MS account. Unless you're already a local account in which case: Uh... panic, because I haven't had it force that ever.

Ah, didn't even know this was a thing. Thanks!

 

[TheSeks]

Ah, didn't even know this was a thing. Thanks!

Even since... I want to say 7(?), on install: MS tries to get you to make a MS/X-box Live (whatever they call it) account to sign into your PC so they can tie your stuff to it. But if you look around in the options you can just tell them to piss off and make a local.

The only benefit to that MS account (IMO) is the "Find My Device" if you have a tablet and don't care about their invasion in privacy.

But, anyway: AFAIK they'll ask you for a password even on local but you should be able to turn that option off if you only want the "click to sign in" login screen. My Surface (which I should change the option for) never asks for a password, just a "click this to sign in" past the stupid image lock-screen on Windows 10. *shrug*

 

[mere_immortal]

Are there any default choices for 1440p monitors around 24/25"? I'm looking at a 1080 so figure I may as well go 1440p otherwise 1080p seems like a waste.

 

[Iced]

vdroop

just make sure you have the LLC to the right setting. Sometimes motherboards are weird.

My options for LLC are auto, standard and high. If I use anything other than high, Prime95 freezes instantly.

Also, my voltage it spiking up to 1.438. Is that normal? Here is a pic from HWiNFO:

Edit: I played The Witcher 3 for a bit and voltage was staying around 1.4 the whole time. Bit worrying.

Edit: In fact even Rocket League was showing voltage hovering closely around 1.4. That just seems to high...right?

 

[Iced]

System:

i7 6700k
Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI motherboard
16GB G Skill DDR4 3000 MHz ram
Gigabyte GTX 1070 Windforce
NZXT S340 case
Fiio E10 USB DAC
Modmic 4.0

My front panel mic input is not working with my Modmic 4.0. When it's plugged in I can hear interference noises. Initially I did not have the Realtek Audio Manager installed, but even when I did, I get the same result. Rear port works fine though, and the front headphone input works fine as well.

Any idea how I can get it working?

 

[lostsupper]

My i5 currently wouldn't cut the mustard unless I overclock extensively? I mean I can do that, but if your second option is basically a "complete" rebuild, that'd be fine as well. Though I'm not sure if my CPU and my GTX 760 is worth anything in getting the money back at this point. *laugh*

The first option works in terms of cheapness.

My major worry is getting the damn heatsink back on. I had two others help me build this three years ago and it took BOTH of them together to get the fucking heatsink onto the motherboard and screwed in. I can't imagine having to redo that by replacing the CPU. :|

Ask a grownup for help.

 

[Iced]

Sorry to keep posting in this thread, but:

i7 6700k 4.5 GHz VID running prime95:

i7 6700k 4.5 GHz watching a 1080p Youtube video:

I get similar high voltages while playing games (any game). Why would this be? I'm on a Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI.

 

[opticalmace]

Sorry to keep posting in this thread, but:

i7 6700k 4.5 GHz VID running prime95:

i7 6700k 4.5 GHz watching a 1080p Youtube video:

I get similar high voltages while playing games (any game). Why would this be? I'm on a Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI.

How did you do your overclocking?

 

[Iced]

How did you do your overclocking?

Through bios. Multiplier to 45, vcore to 1.33, LLC to high, disabled turboboost, disabled all c states except for C1E and speedstep (EIST).

I've run Prime95 for 13 and a half hours using this OC and got no errors. I only recently noticed how high the VID is when gaming, and how low it is when using Prime95.

I should note that when I am not overclocking the cpu and running bios at default settings, I get ridiculously low cpu temps (about 10 degrees cooler than my ambient temps), so I suspect something might be up in general, either HWINFO (and also HWMonitor) not reading sensors properly, or something wrong with the board itself.

 

[megarockexe]

Are there any default choices for 1440p monitors around 24/25"? I'm looking at a 1080 so figure I may as well go 1440p otherwise 1080p seems like a waste.

Dell U2515H?
I have it and it's great. My desk isn't big enough for a 27-inch monitor and I wanted to keep my 21-inch 1080p monitor. Slightly higher DPI than the average 1440p monitor, but it's worth it.

 

[opticalmace]

Through bios. Multiplier to 45, vcore to 1.33, LLC to high, disabled turboboost, disabled all c states except for C1E and speedstep (EIST).

I've run Prime95 for 13 and a half hours using this OC and got no errors. I only recently noticed how high the VID is when gaming, and how low it is when using Prime95.

I should note that when I am not overclocking the cpu and running bios at default settings, I get ridiculously low cpu temps (about 10 degrees cooler than my ambient temps), so I suspect something might be up in general, either HWINFO (and also HWMonitor) not reading sensors properly, or something wrong with the board itself.

Same vcore in cpuz?

 

[Iced]

Same vcore in cpuz?

Here's what it says in CPU-Z when I fired up Witcher 3 just now:

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

Sorry to keep posting in this thread, but:

i7 6700k 4.5 GHz VID running prime95:

i7 6700k 4.5 GHz watching a 1080p Youtube video:

I get similar high voltages while playing games (any game). Why would this be? I'm on a Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI.

stop looking at those settings and look for vcore, it is farther down.

VID is the voltage that the CPU requests from voltage regulator and which it "thinks" it is getting. Vcore on the other hand is the real monitored CPU voltage value that the CPU is getting. If the mainboard implements additional Vcore "offsetting" then the CPU doesn't know about this and so the difference between VID and Vcore can be explained.

Your settings still seem really high though, they shouldn't spike like that unless you have some insane offset in your overclocking type setting.

 

[Iced]

stop looking at those settings and look for vcore, it is farther down.



Your settings still seem really high though, they shouldn't spike like that unless you have some insane offset in your overclocking type setting.

Gah. I feel like such a goof. Vcore is listed under my mobo, not cpu. Min 1.320, Max 1.332.

Okay, so that's a relief! I kept thinking I was running games at 1.42, which I've read is a big no-no for Skylake. 1.332 is acceptable, yeah?

Your settings still seem really high though, they shouldn't spike like that unless you have some insane offset in your overclocking type setting.

Nope, not using offset actually. I've just set the value to 1.33.

 

[Lord Griegous]

So I really can't decide whether to upgrade my CPU/MB/RAM or not.

Context:
I have an OCed i7-2700k, 16GB 1600MHz RAM and a 980ti.
I have a VIVE
I play a lot of CPU-intensive games like ArmA3 and DCS

Question:
Do I make the jump to a 6700k and faster RAM? Anything extremely revolutionary expected in the next 6 months?

I could also just get faster RAM and wait for later, but I don't really know if it is worth it.

Any suggestions?

 

[CazTGG]

So I really can't decide whether to upgrade my CPU/MB/RAM or not.

Context:
I have an OCed i7-2700k, 16GB 1600MHz RAM and a 980ti.
I have a VIVE
I play a lot of CPU-intensive games like ArmA3 and DCS

Question:
Do I make the jump to a 6700k and faster RAM? Anything extremely revolutionary expected in the next 6 months?

I could also just get faster RAM and wait for later, but I don't really know if it is worth it.

Any suggestions?

The Kaby Lake may lead to a lower price for the 6700k and other Skylake processors so you might want to hold out on that. It's unlikely the line itself will see much of a boost in performance compared to Skylake, let alone one to justify the launch price.

 

[flipswitch]

In need monitoring software that displays the temps/usage of CPU/GPU on screen while I'm playing. Any recommendations?

 

[opticalmace]

So I really can't decide whether to upgrade my CPU/MB/RAM or not.

Context:
I have an OCed i7-2700k, 16GB 1600MHz RAM and a 980ti.
I have a VIVE
I play a lot of CPU-intensive games like ArmA3 and DCS

Question:
Do I make the jump to a 6700k and faster RAM? Anything extremely revolutionary expected in the next 6 months?

I could also just get faster RAM and wait for later, but I don't really know if it is worth it.

Any suggestions?

Well, why do you want to upgrade? And what resolution/refresh rate is your monitor?

 

[knitoe]

In need monitoring software that displays the temps/usage of CPU/GPU on screen while I'm playing. Any recommendations?

MSI Afterburner.

 

[ncslamm]

I've got my 1080 and Acer XB271HU coming tomorrow (hopefully). The card is going in my build I did earlier this year, which happened to be my very first build. I'm guessing the steps to take for installing it is to delete my NVIDIA drivers, turn PC off, take 970 out, and then put the 1080 in? Do I need to download the drivers ahead of time on a USB?

Also with the XB271 I've heard the colors are off at first. Any calibration settings you guys recommend (out of the hundreds I've seen online)?

 

[Vipu]

I've got my 1080 and Acer XB271HU coming tomorrow (hopefully). The card is going in my build I did earlier this year, which happened to be my very first build. I'm guessing the steps to take for installing it is to delete my NVIDIA drivers, turn PC off, take 970 out, and then put the 1080 in? Do I need to download the drivers ahead of time on a USB?

Also with the XB271 I've heard the colors are off at first. Any calibration settings you guys recommend (out of the hundreds I've seen online)?

Yes, uninstall, turn off, change card, install new drivers
No need for usb your net still works, it might be faster from usb depending from your net speed.

Calibration depends from tons of stuff, you have to try yourself what is best for you.

 

[Lord Griegous]

Well, why do you want to upgrade? And what resolution/refresh rate is your monitor?

Good question. Monitor is 1080p 144Hz. Considering upgrading for DCS in VR, cause I haven't upgraded CPU in a good while, and because I will be changing my case anyway due to noise levels of my old one. So pretty much superficial reasons.

That is why I do not sound extremely convinced or in a great hurry.

 

[JaseC]

I've got my 1080 and Acer XB271HU coming tomorrow (hopefully). The card is going in my build I did earlier this year, which happened to be my very first build. I'm guessing the steps to take for installing it is to delete my NVIDIA drivers, turn PC off, take 970 out, and then put the 1080 in? Do I need to download the drivers ahead of time on a USB?

Yeah, best to uninstall then reinstall, just in case. Windows has a generic display adapter driver that'll allow you to use your PC as normal prior to installing a proper driver.

 

[Filth]

Has anyone had an issue after installing Windows 10 anniversary edition and having the boot time go from my usual 6-10 seconds to an increase of about 4-6 minutes. I've tried to look for the issue and couldn't fix it so I resorted to restoring the system. Now during the installation process the reboots are taking 5 + minutes. This is ever since the update :|


This isn't a clean install. I was using the option in Windows 10. I only have a Windows 7 disk.

 

[ncslamm]

Yeah, best to uninstall then reinstall, just in case. Windows has a generic display adapter driver that'll allow you to use your PC as normal prior to installing a proper driver.

Ok thanks. I was pretty positive that's what I did. I've had a few frankenstein dell PCs where I upgraded the GPU although that doesn't go as smoothly as a PC you build yourself.

Has anyone had an issue after installing Windows 10 anniversary edition and having the boot time go from my usual 6-10 seconds to an increase of about 4-6 minutes. I've tried to look for the issue and couldn't fix it so I resorted to restoring the system. Now during the installation process the reboots are taking 5 + minutes. This is ever since the update :|


This isn't a clean install. I was using the option in Windows 10. I only have a Windows 7 disk.

Do you have an Xbox One controller plugged in? There's some issues going on with that right now.

 

[BraXzy]

Put this build together for a friend, any thoughts? https://www.scan.co.uk/savedbasket/327df661-06da-4b1e-89e6-bff450d01c08

 

[RamaTheVoice]

Looks good, but is the BD drive entirely necessary? You could save on that by getting a DVD drive instead and get faster RAM.

Also, maybe go with Samsung or Sandisk for the SSD? What does everyone else think?

 

[BraXzy]

Looks good, but is the BD drive entirely necessary? You could save on that by getting a DVD drive instead and get faster RAM.

Also, maybe go with Samsung or Sandisk for the SSD? What does everyone else think?

What RAM would you suggest?

 

[RamaTheVoice]

What RAM would you suggest?

I'd spring the extra 4£ for some DDR4-3000, but that's just me

 

[ncslamm]

I'd spring the extra 4£ for some DDR4-3000, but that's just me

Agreed. I have the same RAM. Worth every penny.

 

[BraXzy]

I'd spring the extra 4£ for some DDR4-3000, but that's just me

Thanks, I didn't spot that. Great!

One other thing I'm not 100% on is the graphics card. Need to have a proper look into them but I'm thinking it'd be between the Gigabyte or the EVGA FTW? Is there a preferred card?

 

[RamaTheVoice]

Thanks, I didn't spot that. Great!

One other thing I'm not 100% on is the graphics card. Need to have a proper look into them but I'm thinking it'd be between the Gigabyte or the EVGA FTW? Is there a preferred card?

EVGA, if only for the apparently excellent support/warranty/etc. Would've bought an EVGA 1080 myself if not for massive availability and markup issues.

 

[aravuus]

So is the Asus MG279Q a bad quality monitor or something compared to Asus PB278QR? Both 27" 1440p IPS monitors, the former just has freesync and is 144hz yet it only costs around 70 euros more (in Finland, 520e vs 590e)

Sounds like a

trap

I don't really care about freesync (GTX970 owner here) or 144hz (I play games a lot, but rarely competitively online), I just want a good, reasonably priced 1440p IPS monitor.

 

[Vipu]

So is the Asus MG279Q a bad quality monitor or something compared to Asus PB278QR? Both 27" 1440p IPS monitors, the former just has freesync and is 144hz yet it only costs around 70 euros more (in Finland, 520e vs 590e)

Sounds like a

trap

I don't really care about freesync (GTX970 owner here) or 144hz (I play games a lot, but rarely competitively online), I just want a good, reasonably priced 1440p IPS monitor.

You dont have to be competitive pro to see that massive difference with 60 and 144hz.

 

[aravuus]

You dont have to be competitive pro to see that massive difference with 60 and 144hz.

I know, I've been on a 144hz monitor for a couple of years now. I only meant that currently, all things considered, I don't care about 144hz enough to either pay considerably more or lose on panel quality (someone mentioned the IPS glow is much worse on the 144hz panel) to get it over 60hz.

 

[BraXzy]

EVGA, if only for the apparently excellent support/warranty/etc. Would've bought an EVGA 1080 myself if not for massive availability and markup issues.

Think this is the final build unless anyone else has any suggestions?

EDIT: Now going for the 1070 so changed the build to reflect.

https://www.scan.co.uk/savedbasket/667589f2-520f-46f0-bd72-fa4c8972eb0a

 

[kromeo]

So is the Asus MG279Q a bad quality monitor or something compared to Asus PB278QR? Both 27" 1440p IPS monitors, the former just has freesync and is 144hz yet it only costs around 70 euros more (in Finland, 520e vs 590e)

Sounds like a

trap

I don't really care about freesync (GTX970 owner here) or 144hz (I play games a lot, but rarely competitively online), I just want a good, reasonably priced 1440p IPS monitor.

Thats a lot of money for the PB27, you can get it for under 400e elsewhere in Europe

 

[RamaTheVoice]

Posted this in the B/S/T thread if any EuroGAFers are interested

WTS:

KFA2 Geforce GTX 980 (this one).

Reference edition with blower-style cooling, but still quite OC-friendly: I've been running it at +200Mhz on the core clock and +450Mhz on the RAM, perfectly stable. Quicker than a 1060 in most cases.

Bought it in March of this year, European warranty lasts until March 2018.

250€ + shipping, Europe only. PM me