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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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ehead

Member
ITX board for a first build? Bold move.

Is that Evolv the mATX or the ITX?

I really need to be more active with posting. I got the Evolv ITX. I'm actually really excited with building it. :D

the only thing youll possibly need is the manual for the mobo to know which dimms to use for your ram and maybe for the header pins.

I guess I won't have much problems with the ram as the board only has two slots. The case cables are my concern especially those small ones. I just hope everything has a label.
 

Filth

Member
Ok thanks. I was pretty positive that's what I did. I've had a few frankenstein dell PCs where I upgraded the GPU although that doesn't go as smoothly as a PC you build yourself.



Do you have an Xbox One controller plugged in? There's some issues going on with that right now.

I have nothing plugged in at all. I just woke up and the install finished. I started my PC and it seemed fast. Now it's updating again and it's sitting on a black screen after I pressed restart and update.


Fully updated. It's doing it again. But I forgot that my Astro a50's are plugged into the usb. I doubt that's causing these 5 min startups. Possible I need to update my ssd drivers or something ??
 
You dont have to be competitive pro to see that massive difference with 60 and 144hz.


I can't see the difference. I've been testing with cs:go, doom and dirt rally.

I can see 30 vs 60 instantly but I'm just not seeing 60 vs 144

Yes I've verified my 144hz monitor is set correctly.
 

jiggles

Banned
I think it's time to replace my case.

I have a Corsair Air 540, which I've thought was great. Its main chamber is roomy and cable management (or, more accurately, cable hiding) is a breeze. The issues, however, are thus:

- I have 2 980Tis in there that I (stupidly) didn't get with blower coolers. The short height of the case means they're both pumping out hot air right by the hard drives, which I don't like.
- The airy design means that when it's being pushed, it's really loud. It's all fans and no sound isolation.
- It only has two 3.5" HDD bays.

I've also been looking for a sit/stand desk recently because I spend too much time on my ass and my existing desk is way too big. To avoid cable snagging and for general neatness, I'd ideally be looking to mount the case to the desk, which the quirky 540's cube design doesn't suit.

So, I stumbled across this thing:
maxresdefaultgku4z.jpg


Which would be the case and the desk all in one and super neat with loads of bays and space. But it's £1,299, so it's a not-insignificant purchase decision. I can probably be convinced to drop that on it, but I'd rather explore some less costly alternatives first.

The cases in the OP seem to be skewed towards value for money, but I'm more in a position where... Well, I wouldn't say "money is no object", but I am willing to pay a premium to solve my noise, layout and mount-compatibility issues while still remaining huge and roomy and cool.

Anyone have any suggestions?
 

komplanen

Member
I would love that desk-case-thing but the price is so fucking ridiculous and it still manages to slap me right in the face by including an ODD slot in the front.
 

jiggles

Banned
ODD slot? You mean RETRACTABLE CUP HOLDER

(I don't have an ODD in my machine anymore, so that would only be used for the fan controller if I were to get it)
 
I think it's time to replace my case.

I have a Corsair Air 540, which I've thought was great. Its main chamber is roomy and cable management (or, more accurately, cable hiding) is a breeze. The issues, however, are thus:

- I have 2 980Tis in there that I (stupidly) didn't get with blower coolers. The short height of the case means they're both pumping out hot air right by the hard drives, which I don't like.
- The airy design means that when it's being pushed, it's really loud. It's all fans and no sound isolation.
- It only has two 3.5" HDD bays.

I've also been looking for a sit/stand desk recently because I spend too much time on my ass and my existing desk is way too big. To avoid cable snagging and for general neatness, I'd ideally be looking to mount the case to the desk, which the quirky 540's cube design doesn't suit.

So, I stumbled across this thing:
maxresdefaultgku4z.jpg


Which would be the case and the desk all in one and super neat with loads of bays and space. But it's £1,299, so it's a not-insignificant purchase decision. I can probably be convinced to drop that on it, but I'd rather explore some less costly alternatives first.

The cases in the OP seem to be skewed towards value for money, but I'm more in a position where... Well, I wouldn't say "money is no object", but I am willing to pay a premium to solve my noise, layout and mount-compatibility issues while still remaining huge and roomy and cool.

Anyone have any suggestions?
I would take a different approach. I would probably get a height adjustable desk and a case with sound dampening material. The 2 AIB 980 Tis are probably an issue for noise, so I would consider switching to a single card like a 1080 maybe (get one that is rather quiet, maybe the MSI Gaming X or whatever).
 

jiggles

Banned
I would take a different approach. I would probably get a height adjustable desk and a case with sound dampening material. The 2 AIB 980 Tis are probably an issue for noise, so I would consider switching to a single card like a 1080 maybe (get one that is rather quiet, maybe the MSI Gaming X or whatever).

Well, I'm happy to wait for the next iteration cards to make it more of an upgrade (I buy cards every 2 years on 2 years finance and just class the repayments as a "PC Gaming Subscription"). But I'm not happy to wait another year to swap out a case my build has outgrown today, so I'd like to get something that can handle the two cards (also in case I go SLI again) with more room for hard drives with improved soundproofing and (if possible) better cooling performance.

Also, on the high price for the DK-04, I was in IKEA at the weekend and they had a motorized sit/stand desk for about £480. And that was just for some basic IKEA shite. For a glass-top that's also a metal case with mounts and cooling, £1000 would probably be a solid estimate, and the last 30% is branding. It's not great value for money, sure, but it's not too high that I can't justify it, given it's the only thing like it I can find on the market.
 

AHA-Lambda

Member
Well a few pages back I mentioned I had an issue with my PC where ASUS anti surge protection had tripped for no reason, and so I kinda feared for my PSU

I took it to a good local PC shop I know yesterday, just got it back today and they said they found nothing wrong with it.
That a good enough explanation I guess? I'm pretty hopeless with these kinds of internal technical handlings :/
 

ehead

Member
The cpu cooler is such a challenge. I don't know if I'm doing it properly. Is it supposed to be hard to screw the heatpipe to the nuts?

Edit: Cooler master evo 212 cooler btw. Anyway, I think I made it.
 

Iced

Member
I set Prime95 to run overnight and when I got up this morning, I could hear the fans lowering and revving back up every half minute or so. I checked HWINFO64 and noticed that the multiplier was dropping whenever I heard the fans spin down. No errors were being reported in Prime95, though. Max temp recorded for one of the cores was 83.

Last week I ran Prime95 for 13 and a half hours, and I didn't notice it doing this while I was running the test. I was running my i7 6700k at 4.5 GHz with vcore set to 1.33 and LLC set to high (Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI mobo). The only difference for last night's test is I set an offset voltage value of -0.060. Vcore was still hitting 1.33.

Any idea what could be causing this?
 

gl0w

Member
Hi guys,

quick question:

I have a
i76700 4.0ghz
MSI GTX1070
GIGABYTE GAMING K3
and.. 2 sticks 8GB of Hyperx fury DDR4 2400mhz CL15.

Is the RAM a bottleneck here? Is it a big difference between 2400mhz and 3000mhz in gaming?

Thanks in advance!
 

Bloodember

Member
Hi guys,

quick question:

I have a
i76700 4.0ghz
MSI GTX1070
GIGABYTE GAMING K3
and.. 2 sticks 8GB of Hyperx fury DDR4 2400mhz CL15.

Is the RAM a bottleneck here? Is it a big difference between 2400mhz and 3000mhz in gaming?

Thanks in advance!

No your fine. If you want a few more fps you can switch to 3000mhz. I use 3000mhz G.Skill Trident Z, 32GB.
 

ehead

Member
Stupid question. I am now connecting the cables to my PSU and the strix 1070 requires an 8-pin cable. Now, all my VGA cables are 6+2, is it the same? Should the 6+2 be the one connected to the card or it can be vice-versa?
 

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
Stupid question. I am now connecting the cables to my PSU and the strix 1070 requires an 8-pin cable. Now, all my VGA cables are 6+2, is it the same? Should the 6+2 be the one connected to the card or it can be vice-versa?

It's fine. The 6+2 configuration is just a matter of eliminating the need for separate 6/8-pin cables.
 

ehead

Member
It's fine. The 6+2 configuration is just a matter of eliminating the need for separate 6/8-pin cables.

Thanks JaseC. I had to know for sure, because I need to remove the HDD bracket before installing the PSU. I didn't want to redo it later.
 
Hi guys,

quick question:

I have a
i76700 4.0ghz
MSI GTX1070
GIGABYTE GAMING K3
and.. 2 sticks 8GB of Hyperx fury DDR4 2400mhz CL15.

Is the RAM a bottleneck here? Is it a big difference between 2400mhz and 3000mhz in gaming?

Thanks in advance!

Try setting the ram voltage to 1.35v and see how high your ram can overclock. I'm going to guess you can get around 3000. You might have to change the settings to like 15-16-16-39
 
Is it a good time to jump on a i7 6700K + Mobo and RAM? or are a new generation of procs coming out soon?

I have an i53570k @ 4.4 that honestly is still going strong (I have a GTX 1080 and a g-sync @1080p)
 

vector824

Member
Hi guys,

quick question:

I have a
i76700 4.0ghz
MSI GTX1070
GIGABYTE GAMING K3
and.. 2 sticks 8GB of Hyperx fury DDR4 2400mhz CL15.

Is the RAM a bottleneck here? Is it a big difference between 2400mhz and 3000mhz in gaming?

Thanks in advance!

No your fine. If you want a few more fps you can switch to 3000mhz. I use 3000mhz G.Skill Trident Z, 32GB.

He's right. It's literally 2-4 fps difference. Keep the 2400. Are you experiencing sub-par performance? There shouldn't be a "bottleneck" at all, unless you're using a 5400rpm sata 2 drive or something super old lol.
 
I set Prime95 to run overnight and when I got up this morning, I could hear the fans lowering and revving back up every half minute or so. I checked HWINFO64 and noticed that the multiplier was dropping whenever I heard the fans spin down. No errors were being reported in Prime95, though. Max temp recorded for one of the cores was 83.

Last week I ran Prime95 for 13 and a half hours, and I didn't notice it doing this while I was running the test. I was running my i7 6700k at 4.5 GHz with vcore set to 1.33 and LLC set to high (Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI mobo). The only difference for last night's test is I set an offset voltage value of -0.060. Vcore was still hitting 1.33.

Any idea what could be causing this?

Between tasks your cpu is downclocking. That's how offset/adaptive voltage works. If this thread is your first line of support you need to do more research on what you're actually doing.
 

Iced

Member
Between tasks your cpu is downclocking. That's how offset/adaptive voltage works. If this thread is your first line of support you need to do more research on what you're actually doing.

But it's not between tasks. As I said, I'm stress-testing using Prime95 when this is happening.
 

ehead

Member
Thanks JaseC. I had to know for sure, because I need to remove the HDD bracket before installing the PSU. I didn't want to redo it later.

Spoke too soon. Fck. I chose the wrong cable for the SSD. I just followed the label PERIF. Arg.
 
I set Prime95 to run overnight and when I got up this morning, I could hear the fans lowering and revving back up every half minute or so. I checked HWINFO64 and noticed that the multiplier was dropping whenever I heard the fans spin down. No errors were being reported in Prime95, though. Max temp recorded for one of the cores was 83.

Last week I ran Prime95 for 13 and a half hours, and I didn't notice it doing this while I was running the test. I was running my i7 6700k at 4.5 GHz with vcore set to 1.33 and LLC set to high (Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI mobo). The only difference for last night's test is I set an offset voltage value of -0.060. Vcore was still hitting 1.33.

Any idea what could be causing this?

As a test, what happens if you set Windows power options to "High Performance"?
 

Iced

Member
As a test, what happens if you set Windows power options to "High Performance"?

I have power options set to high performance already.

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20160626143608AAeJ5KM

I'm not sure how much stock to put in this answer, but one of the users here says that at 84 degrees, the 6700k will begin to throttle performance. This would make sense in my scenario, given that I saw a max temp of 83 for one of the cores (and given a margin or error in HWiNFO64).
 

Karish

Member
I am getting the Razer Core to go along w/ my Dell XPS 15. Debating between the GTX 1060 and the RX 480. I have a 4K TV but am honestly quite happy w/ 1440p looks on it and could hardly notice a diff. Want to be VR ready and will probably do a good amount of xbox play anywhere gaming too.

Which should I get?
 
I am getting the Razer Core to go along w/ my Dell XPS 15. Debating between the GTX 1060 and the RX 480. I have a 4K TV but am honestly quite happy w/ 1440p looks on it and could hardly notice a diff. Want to be VR ready and will probably do a good amount of xbox play anywhere gaming too.

Which should I get?

A 1070, or at the very least a 1060. From what I gather a 480 is not gonna last you long at 1440p.
 

ehead

Member
Finally!




But I don't have any keyboard with me at the moment. D'oh. Is it okay to turn the system off manually (hardpress)?

Edit: I just turned it off. I'll just setup the OS tomorrow. It took me almost 4 hours. I feel so satisfied. Time to get some cheap keyboard and mouse.
 

TheJoRu

Member
I'm enjoying my new GTX 1060 PC build a lot, but I did start thinking about my i5 6500 and how I maybe should've bit the bullet and gone for a 6600K. It would've set me back maybe an extra $90 if you add up the extra CPU, CPU fan and mobo costs, but maybe it'd have been worth it in the end. Overclocking is not really my forte, and I'd rather avoid it, but I'd probably have done it to avoid big frame drops.

So how long do you guys think it'll last me before the CPU performance (which is currently great!) starts to seriously limit me in modern games? I don't see a scenario in the coming 3-5 years where the current 1080p 60Hz gameplay my current monitor allows wouldn't be adequate for my gaming needs, but it'd be nice if I could keep that level of performance for a good while.
 

CazTGG

Member
How are EVGA when it comes to PSUs in terms of noise (I've heard Eco Mode turns them off when the PC is idle/until the PC gets warmer)? Newegg Canada currently has one of their 850w PSU on sale for less than $150.
 
Just ordered a MSI GTX 1070 Armor from Amazon (£389) so my Skylake build is coming to an end and I can finally put my trusty old GTX 760 to rest.

So my final Spec will be.

Phanteks Enthoo Primo White case.
i7 6700k.
MSI Xpower Gaming Titanium Motherboard.
MSI GTX 1070 Armor.
Corsair H115i AiO Watercooler.
Corsair Dominator Platinum 3000MHz 16GB DDR4 RAM (running at 3200MHz)
128GB Samsung SSD.
2TB Samsung Spimpoint HDD.
2TB Western Digital Green HDD.
Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w PSU.
Bitfenix White Braided PSU Extension Cables.
LG DVD Reader / Writer.
LG blu-ray Reader / Writer.
NZXT Sentry LX LCD Fan Controller.
NZXT Hue+ RGB Lighting.

Felt good to build a new rig again, after such a long time and will be nice to get the framerates back up, without having to turn down the graphical settings.
 
I'm enjoying my new GTX 1060 PC build a lot, but I did start thinking about my i5 6500 and how I maybe should've bit the bullet and gone for a 6600K. It would've set me back maybe an extra $90 if you add up the extra CPU, CPU fan and mobo costs, but maybe it'd have been worth it in the end. Overclocking is not really my forte, and I'd rather avoid it, but I'd probably have done it to avoid big frame drops.

So how long do you guys think it'll last me before the CPU performance (which is currently great!) starts to seriously limit me in modern games? I don't see a scenario in the coming 3-5 years where the current 1080p 60Hz gameplay my current monitor allows wouldn't be adequate for my gaming needs, but it'd be nice if I could keep that level of performance for a good while.

I'm guessing 3-4 years, depending on what games you play.
 

gl0w

Member
No your fine. If you want a few more fps you can switch to 3000mhz. I use 3000mhz G.Skill Trident Z, 32GB.

Try setting the ram voltage to 1.35v and see how high your ram can overclock. I'm going to guess you can get around 3000. You might have to change the settings to like 15-16-16-39

He's right. It's literally 2-4 fps difference. Keep the 2400. Are you experiencing sub-par performance? There shouldn't be a "bottleneck" at all, unless you're using a 5400rpm sata 2 drive or something super old lol.

Thank you all! No sub-par performance, well, actually just on rust a few fps dips and the screen break for like 1sec, not sure why it happens.
I will give it a try on the overclock, but think for now is all good. I was just thinking further ahead :)
 

Duxxy3

Member
I've got the Asus 239H-P. 23" IPS monitor that does 1080p very well; PS4 and PC games look great on them, and no problems playing online shooters. Only $126 on Amazon.

That's what I ended up going with. I had it on my list and saw it recommended constantly.
 

Iced

Member
Does anyone know if it's possible to disable cpu spread spectrum on Gigabyte motherboards? According to their website, the option should be called "CPU Host Clock Control", but I'm not seeing that anywhere. I'm on a GA-Z170XP-SLI.
 

PFD

Member
Well, I'm happy to wait for the next iteration cards to make it more of an upgrade (I buy cards every 2 years on 2 years finance and just class the repayments as a "PC Gaming Subscription"). But I'm not happy to wait another year to swap out a case my build has outgrown today, so I'd like to get something that can handle the two cards (also in case I go SLI again) with more room for hard drives with improved soundproofing and (if possible) better cooling performance.

Also, on the high price for the DK-04, I was in IKEA at the weekend and they had a motorized sit/stand desk for about £480. And that was just for some basic IKEA shite. For a glass-top that's also a metal case with mounts and cooling, £1000 would probably be a solid estimate, and the last 30% is branding. It's not great value for money, sure, but it's not too high that I can't justify it, given it's the only thing like it I can find on the market.

Dude don't finance a SLI setup, that's just madness
 
My PC parts are coming in tomorrow!

Specs:
CPU: i5 6500 ($205)
CPU Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO: $30
Mobo: MSI Pro Solution Intel Z170A LGA 1151 ($114)
RAM: 8GB Kingston Fury 2133 MHz ($39)
Storage: 240 GB SSD (already had from my laptop)
Case: Corsair Spec Alpha, Red and White ($65)
PSU: EVGA 750w ($75)
OS: Windows 10 Education 24 month ($5)

And the piece de resistánce (which has been in my closet)

GPU: Asus Strix 980ti ($200)

Overall about $738 for something that will last a long time on my 1080p monitor.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
How are EVGA when it comes to PSUs in terms of noise (I've heard Eco Mode turns them off when the PC is idle/until the PC gets warmer)? Newegg Canada currently has one of their 850w PSU on sale for less than $150.

Just fyi there's a gaffer selling a seasonic x-1250 for $60 in the buy/sell thread: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=212978871&postcount=3801
Says its in excellent condition, would be a great deal. I'm currently using a seasonic x750 and it's very silent with its fan that only turns on when the load goes above a certain amount.
 

ekgrey

Member
Work is progressing on my son's first PC. Got a couple of questions though.

How big a jump is an i5 from an i3 for gaming? Modded Minecraft is the big thing, but he'll also be exploring my Steam library (with some restrictions, of course) and medium settings are fine (he's used to a PS3 and Xbox 360, so it's still gonna be a big leap.) Like, being an enthusiast, I get stuck thinking that low-end is completely worthless and I know that's bullshit, I just have no experience with lower-level parts and what to expect performance-wise.

And if we go with the i3, is the stock cooler sufficient for at least a little while? I'd planned on getting a Hyper 212 EVO (of course) but we're trying to shave off every dollar we can to get it done before he goes back to school next month. He's inheriting my old Haswell mobo and it is suitable for OCing, but we'll probably be going with a non-K chip.

This will be paired with either an RX 460 or 470, BTW. Thoughts on those would be appreciated as well. The 460 is obviously preferable due to price, but I don't want to be making so many sacrifices that PC gaming doesn't seem any better than his last-gen systems. Again, though, I don't know how much of this is that "anything less than the best is worthless!" thinking....
 
Hey, just had a question on reading the OP. The note for SSD says:

"Unexpected power loss to your SSD/PC can corrupt ALL your SSD data. HIGHLY suggest a battery backup on a desktop, or have a current backup."

I'm not quite sure what either of those backups is, and is there any compatibility requirements? Like does this fall under these categories?
http://www.newegg.com/UPS/SubCategory/ID-72

-----------------
Edit: Also, what's the better option between these two cards? They're both GTX 1060 6GB, but one has two fans & is called "mini", and the other is 1 fan, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5O5AP2/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...4487261&cm_re=gtx_1060-_-14-487-261-_-Product
 

jiggles

Banned
Dude don't finance a SLI setup, that's just madness

I don't see how it makes a difference if I pay for it with cash or credit. If I'm happy with the interest rate I get on the loan, I'd rather keep my savings intact and guarantee I'll be using the cards for at least two years instead of being tempted to upgrade to the latest and greatest every time a new model comes out.
 

Hawk269

Member
Need some help folks.

I bought a new Titan X Pascal. So today, I decide to plug it in. I had 2 Titan Maxwell GPU's in my rig under water. I drained my loop, removed the 2x Titan Maxwell's and then reconnected my loop and did my leak test etc. Everything seemed fine so far. I plug my Titan X P and plug everything in. I am greeted after the Bios Screen to insert a boot disk or select a boot drive. I am not sure what the hell is going on. I checked all my cables and power cables and everything is hooked up. The only thing I removed was the 2 cards and the power cords for them (left one of the new Titan). The Bios recognizes my 3 SSD drives, but I cannot figure this out. It just boots up and goes to bios splash screen and I get greeted with the same message over and over.

Any help or suggestions on what to look into?

Thanks
 
Need some help folks.

I bought a new Titan X Pascal. So today, I decide to plug it in. I had 2 Titan Maxwell GPU's in my rig under water. I drained my loop, removed the 2x Titan Maxwell's and then reconnected my loop and did my leak test etc. Everything seemed fine so far. I plug my Titan X P and plug everything in. I am greeted after the Bios Screen to insert a boot disk or select a boot drive. I am not sure what the hell is going on. I checked all my cables and power cables and everything is hooked up. The only thing I removed was the 2 cards and the power cords for them (left one of the new Titan). The Bios recognizes my 3 SSD drives, but I cannot figure this out. It just boots up and goes to bios splash screen and I get greeted with the same message over and over.

Any help or suggestions on what to look into?

Thanks

Do you have another PC lying around which you can use to create a bootable Windows flash drive? Maybe you can use it to "repair" your Windows installation. Assuming you're running Windows of course.

What are your boot priority settings in your BIOS?
 

knitoe

Member
Need some help folks.

I bought a new Titan X Pascal. So today, I decide to plug it in. I had 2 Titan Maxwell GPU's in my rig under water. I drained my loop, removed the 2x Titan Maxwell's and then reconnected my loop and did my leak test etc. Everything seemed fine so far. I plug my Titan X P and plug everything in. I am greeted after the Bios Screen to insert a boot disk or select a boot drive. I am not sure what the hell is going on. I checked all my cables and power cables and everything is hooked up. The only thing I removed was the 2 cards and the power cords for them (left one of the new Titan). The Bios recognizes my 3 SSD drives, but I cannot figure this out. It just boots up and goes to bios splash screen and I get greeted with the same message over and over.

Any help or suggestions on what to look into?

Thanks

First, make sure the drive with your boot sector is selected as priority #1 in the bios.

Second, the boot sector could be corrupted. Google for instructions on possibly fixing it.

Lastly, you might have to reinstall Windows.
 
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