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[lostsupper]

How is it poor?

The mounting system is garbage. The fan is junk. The machining is imprecise.

It's cheap--that is its one redeeming quality. But for $10 or $20 more, there are so many better options. This isn't a component that's worth saving such little money on.

 

[Lion Heart]

Weird question for you guys:

I have an SSD I installed fresh, my old HDD I just had it unplugged for ever. I finally plugged my old HDD in for extra space, it still has Windows 7 partition on it and stuff but I want to format it soon.

After that it wont have any program files folders or anything right? If I install a game, I know sometimes they store files in different folders like Documents or what not (save files, progress etc), will this still occur and where do those go now?

 

[chaosblade]

Found that Powercolor dropped a bios update for the 480 Devil. Seems a lot better than the prior one (which was apparently better than the one from the initial release/reviews). For starters, it fixes the power limit and allows the full 50% increase rather than just 5%. So that's nice.

On top of that, it seems to have improved overall performance through higher and more consistent clock speeds. I did some fairly quick and dirty testing.

- At factory settings with the stock bios, I was previously getting core clocks in the 1200 range, with dips into 1100s and a few spikes to 1300. With the updated bios, it now mostly maintains 1330, with occasional dips into the 1320s and a few rare dips into the 1310s.

- With 2250 mhz memory and no power limit increase, my core clocks on the stock bios were around 1000mhz with dips as low as the 800s. With the update, they average around 1200.

- 2250 memory with the maximum 5% power limit on the stock bios didn't improve things much at all. Maybe hit an average of 1050 on the core with some spikes over 1100, still dips as far as low 900s. With the new bios the core averages around 1300. Massive improvement here.

- For my card, 11% power limit on the new bios allows for 2250 memory and a perfectly solid 1330 core with no dips.




tl;dr, if you have a 480 Devil, you should really consider updating the bios even if you plan to run it at factory settings. You will get higher and more consistent clock speeds, which means better overall performance.

Weird question for you guys:

I have an SSD I installed fresh, my old HDD I just had it unplugged for ever. I finally plugged my old HDD in for extra space, it still has Windows 7 partition on it and stuff but I want to format it soon.

After that it wont have any program files folders or anything right? If I install a game, I know sometimes they store files in different folders like Documents or what not (save files, progress etc), will this still occur and where do those go now?

Formatting it will completely erase everything on it. Nothing left behind, completely empty. You want to make sure you don't have anything left on there you may want before you format it, because you realistically aren't getting anything back off of it after that.

Installing games and programs to a second hard drive doesn't really treat them any differently. If they save files to the documents folder, they will still do that the same as they would if they were on the main drive.

 

[Lion Heart]

Formatting it will completely erase everything on it. Nothing left behind, completely empty. You want to make sure you don't have anything left on there you may want before you format it, because you realistically aren't getting anything back off of it after that.

Installing games and programs to a second hard drive doesn't really treat them any differently. If they save files to my documents, they will still do that the same as they would if they were on the main drive.

But do the save files go to the main SSDs "My Documents"? There theoretically wont be a My documents on my second drive.

 

[chaosblade]

But do the save files go to the main SSDs "My Documents"? There theoretically wont be a My documents on my second drive.

Yes, they will still go to the main Windows drive. So your SSD's documents folder.

You could make your own documents folder on the hard drive and change Windows settings to use that instead, but it won't do any of that by default.

Edit: responded with the wrong word even though the description was right.

 

[Lion Heart]

Interesting. Thanks boss.

 

[big fake]

Could any of you guys give this PSU a look and tell me if it's reliable for OCing and my i5 6600k and GTX 1060 setup?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for pestering you all so much, I value a lot if your expertise when it comes to builds.

 

[chaosblade]

Could any of you guys give this PSU a look and tell me if it's reliable for OCing and my i5 6600k and GTX 1060 setup?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for pestering you all so much, I value a lot if your expertise when it comes to builds.

The EVGA you linked before? It would be fine for those at stock, but I don't know about OCing. This would probably be a better and cheaper alternative after rebate, though still not ideal.

Prices in Canada suck. About $15 more gets you a quality Seasonic. All around better PSU, should handle overclocking fine.

 

[big fake]

The EVGA you linked before? It would be fine for those at stock, but I don't know about OCing. This would probably be a better and cheaper alternative after rebate, though still not ideal.

Prices in Canada suck. About $15 more gets you a quality Seasonic. All around better PSU, should handle overclocking fine.

Tell me about it man, this dollar ia absolutely trash, this would be 800 or so in the US, enthusiast are screwed in Canada. oh ya that EVGA one you linked is totally in my budget. The other one isnt sadly, I pushed my budget quite a bit with the Z170 motherboard. So your saying this 80+ Bronze PSU here would be fine with over clocking? I really would only push to like 3.9 GHz at most now.

 

[chaosblade]

Tell me about it man, this dollar ia absolutely trash, this would be 800 or so in the US, enthusiast are screwed in Canada. oh ya that EVGA one you linked is totally in my budget. The other one isnt sadly, I pushed my budget quite a bit with the Z170 motherboard. So your saying this 80+ Bronze PSU here would be fine with over clocking? I really would only push to like 3.9 GHz at most now.

It would most likely be okay for a mild overclock. I mean, comparatively, an 6600k with a mild overclock and the integrated graphics disabled is probably still going to draw less power than quite a few of AMD's higher end offerings at stock. And a 1060 is not exactly a power hungry monster, and should sustain a mild overclock decently.

That's not to say go wild with it, and I'd still recommend trying to stretch your budget for something like the Seasonic if possible. But if that's completely out of the question you could do a lot worse than that EVGA PSU.

 

[big fake]

It would most likely be okay for a mild overclock. I mean, comparatively, an 6600k with a mild overclock and the integrated graphics disabled is probably still going to draw less power than quite a few of AMD's higher end offerings at stock. And a 1060 is not exactly a power hungry monster, and should sustain a mild overclock decently.

That's not to say go wild with it, and I'd still recommend trying to stretch your budget for something like the Seasonic if possible. But if that's completely out of the question you could do a lot worse than that EVGA PSU.

Ya a mild over clock for now would be just fine for me. I really don't think I need the OC anyway, but as I've stretched this budget super thin as of late then I can't spring for a Seasonic. Hoping that the dollar rebound for the next time I go to expand my setup, god knows I'm paying 30-50℅ more than the average American consumer in this climate.

Anyway thanks man, I really appreciate this. You guys have made my build better in less than 24 hours. Glad you guys are around here to help us novice's out.

 

[LilJoka]

Question about CPU fans.

Specs:

i7 6700k
Asus Z170-A
Noctua NH-D14

I have both fans for the cpu cooler plugged into the CPU_FAN header via the splitter that came with it. In bios, I have all my fans set to PWM at standard speed, including the CPU fans. Right now the system is idling, and the RPMs read:

Chassis1 600 RPM (140mm top)
CPU 1355 RPM (2x 140mm via y split from Noctua)
Chassis2 534 RPM (120mm rear)
Chassis3 580 RPM (140mm front)
Chassis4 609 RPM (140mm front)

Not that I necessarily mind the CPU fans running at such a high RPM as they are fairly quiet, but is there any reason why they would? If I run Intel Burn Test, the CPU fans only hit around 1400 RPM, which isn't much higher than idle. Temps for all 4 cores right now are all below 30.

Here's how I do it:
During OC tests: all fans max speed.
Once OC is done: All fans minimum speeds at idle. All fans spin up under load to keep gaming from hitting 75c. Usually that's the 800rpm range.

 

[gotoadgo]

i7 6700k, 4.6ghz/1.31V at 50-60 Celsius at 100% load. Yooooooooo Ima go further.

 

[LilJoka]

i7 6700k, 4.6ghz/1.31V at 50-60 Celsius at 100% load. Yooooooooo Ima go further.

What are you using to stress test as temps seems remarkably good.

 

[gotoadgo]

What are you using to stress test as temps seems remarkably good.

Using aida64 but have moved to Intel burn test at maximum now.
I've also moved it to 1.32 at 4.8ghz and its at max 69C. This was at low fan speeds too, I'm now stress testing with max fan speed to see how it goes.

 

[windfish]

Hey guys, I was already asking for some advice last year (once again thanks at RGM79) but unfortunatly a car accident and a marriage later, I am still without a new piece of hardware.

My current setup is complete trash by now (i5 750 and hd 5800 lol) so nothing to use here. Main use will be gaming and photo/video editing, looking forward
to play upcoming games from MS (Sea of Thieves, Scalebound and the likes) so I can avoid buying a XboxOne and put the money into this PC, VR maybe.

Iam using a Dell 2515h but plan to use my TV (Samsung UE40H6470) for gaming, I just need my comfy couch. 1080p, 60 fps cool by me!
Edit: Forgot to add... not looking to overclocking, don't wanna mess with anything that is not super easy to do and or easy to fix.

Many requests in this thread seem to be pretty similar so I think I've already put together a pretty solid list.
Still - it would be great to get some input if there is something wrong or missing (like more fans?) anything that can be replaced by stuff more efficient/cheaper? (Germany btw)

1 Western Digital WD Blue 1TB, 64MB Cache, SATA 6Gb/s (WD10EZEX) € 46,26
1 SanDisk Extreme PRO 240GB, SATA (SDSSDXPS-240G-G25) € 97,--
1 Intel Core i5-6600K, 4x 3.50GHz, boxed ohne Kühler (BX80662I56600K) € 229,99
1 G.Skill RipJaws V rot DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR4-3000, CL15-16-16-35 (F4-3000C15D-16GVRB) € 76,78
1 Palit GeForce GTX 1070 Gamerock Premium, 8GB GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort (NE51070H15P2G) € 497,98
1 ASUS Z170-A (90MB0LS0-M0EAY0) € 141,90
1 LG Electronics GH24NSB0 schwarz, SATA, bulk (GH24NSB0.AUAA10B) € 14,50
1 Arctic Freezer i32 CO (ACFRE00015A) € 31,69
1 Fractal Design Define R5 Black, schallgedämmt (FD-CA-DEF-R5-BK) € 92,74
1 Cooler Master VS-Series V750SM 750W ATX 2.31 (RS750-AMAAG1) € 139,19
1 Microsoft: Windows 10 Pro 64Bit, DSP/SB (deutsch) (PC) (FQC-08922) € 47,45

Total € 1415,48

Spoiler

https://geizhals.de/?cat=WL-686636

Don't know if I will be confident enough to put it together myself so there will be additional cost for assembling and installation. :/
Was aiming for 1400 total, if there is a chance to safe some cash I would really appreciate the advice. Thanks

 

[Sniffynose]

So the recent voltages weren't sitting right with me on my i7 6700k, with an evo 212 it was runnin stock under prime95 28.9 at 90c so after not being impressed with the Evo I got a Noctua nh-d15 and it dropped max temps under full stress to 75c. I have been watching the voltages and the stupid mobo by default was pushing it to like 1.31v just at stock, so I went and OC'd and noticed the damn thing was running lower voltages at 4.4ghz than stock...

Once I figured out their default profile must be insane I simply added an offset of -10mv and now it's running stable at stock 4.2ghz at 60c!!!

That fucking asrock z170 Pro4 board was pushing 30+ extra watts on the cpu by default... I didn't plan on overclocking for a while, but turns out by doing so I was getting lower temps/volts and wattage /facepalm

TLDR: don't trust motherboard default settings, auto apparently means light shit on fire even at stock speeds lol

On the bright side I can run stable at 4.6ghz using less than the fkn thing was pushing on my poor stock cpu.

Hey guys, I was already asking for some advice last year (once again thanks at RGM79) but unfortunatly a car accident and a marriage later, I am still without a new piece of hardware.

My current setup is complete trash by now (i5 750 and hd 5800 lol) so nothing to use here. Main use will be gaming and photo/video editing, looking forward
to play upcoming games from MS (Sea of Thieves, Scalebound and the likes) so I can avoid buying a XboxOne and put the money into this PC, VR maybe.

Iam using a Dell 2515h but plan to use my TV (Samsung UE40H6470) for gaming, I just need my comfy couch. 1080p, 60 fps cool by me!
Edit: Forgot to add... not looking to overclocking, don't wanna mess with anything that is not super easy to do and or easy to fix.

Many requests in this thread seem to be pretty similar so I think I've already put together a pretty solid list.
Still - it would be great to get some input if there is something wrong or missing (like more fans?) anything that can be replaced by stuff more efficient/cheaper? (Germany btw)

1 Western Digital WD Blue 1TB, 64MB Cache, SATA 6Gb/s (WD10EZEX) € 46,26
1 SanDisk Extreme PRO 240GB, SATA (SDSSDXPS-240G-G25) € 97,--
1 Intel Core i5-6600K, 4x 3.50GHz, boxed ohne Kühler (BX80662I56600K) € 229,99
1 G.Skill RipJaws V rot DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR4-3000, CL15-16-16-35 (F4-3000C15D-16GVRB) € 76,78
1 Palit GeForce GTX 1070 Gamerock Premium, 8GB GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort (NE51070H15P2G) € 497,98
1 ASUS Z170-A (90MB0LS0-M0EAY0) € 141,90
1 LG Electronics GH24NSB0 schwarz, SATA, bulk (GH24NSB0.AUAA10B) € 14,50
1 Arctic Freezer i32 CO (ACFRE00015A) € 31,69
1 Fractal Design Define R5 Black, schallgedämmt (FD-CA-DEF-R5-BK) € 92,74
1 Cooler Master VS-Series V750SM 750W ATX 2.31 (RS750-AMAAG1) € 139,19
1 Microsoft: Windows 10 Pro 64Bit, DSP/SB (deutsch) (PC) (FQC-08922) € 47,45

Total € 1415,48

Spoiler

https://geizhals.de/?cat=WL-686636

Don't know if I will be confident enough to put it together myself so there will be additional cost for assembling and installation. :/
Was aiming for 1400 total, if there is a chance to safe some cash I would really appreciate the advice. Thanks

If you don't need the few extra features in windows 10 pro you can save by just getting 10 home x64 edition.

If you don't plan on overclocking the gpu/cpu you can also bump the power supply down to a 550/650 watt gold. Although like my case the 750 was the same price so figured why not.

I'd also personally go with a Noctua NH-U14S cpu cooler, I know it's more expensive but they are much easier to install, come with a tube of excellent thermal compound and have amazing build quality.

If you switch those three things up a bit you should come out ahead I think.

hope that helps!

 

[Iced]

Here's how I do it:
During OC tests: all fans max speed.
Once OC is done: All fans minimum speeds at idle. All fans spin up under load to keep gaming from hitting 75c. Usually that's the 800rpm range.

I feel like such an idiot for not paying attention to this while installing the fans to begin with, but I figured out the issue: neither fan that comes with the NH-D14 is PWM. I can live with that - I was more worried there was something wrong with them! I've set the fans to DC (from PWM) in Asus bios and they now run at a much lower RPM (but still rev up when needed).

 

[Iced]

I have one final question about my recent build and then I believe I can close the book on it.

I have an Asus Z170-A motherboard. In bios, I like to disable all the boot drive slots save for the actual boot drive I'm using (since none of the others are bootable anyway). So I always have my OS drive listed as #1 and that's it. But when I save and go back into bios, my Crucial MX100 512GB SSD always gets listed as drive 2. If I disable it, it always reappears. I doubt it's actually causing a problem, but I find it curious nonetheless.

Here's a screenshot of Disk Management, if it helps (it's the E: drive):

Any ideas, Gaf?

 

[Sniffynose]

I have one final question about my recent build and then I believe I can close the book on it.

I have an Asus Z170-A motherboard. In bios, I like to disable all the boot drive slots save for the actual boot drive I'm using (since none of the others are bootable anyway). So I always have my OS drive listed as #1 and that's it. But when I save and go back into bios, my Crucial MX100 512GB SSD always gets listed as drive 2. If I disable it, it always reappears. I doubt it's actually causing a problem, but I find it curious nonetheless.

Here's a screenshot of Disk Management, if it helps (it's the E: drive):

Any ideas, Gaf?

Don't worry about it, my bios also constantly shows USB drives even though it's just my empty card reader lol.

As long as your O/S drive is set as your primary boot drive the bios won't be searching the others and wasting time anyways.

 

[LilJoka]

Using aida64 but have moved to Intel burn test at maximum now.
I've also moved it to 1.32 at 4.8ghz and its at max 69C. This was at low fan speeds too, I'm now stress testing with max fan speed to see how it goes.

Pretty good, and very good chip if its doing 4.8Ghz 1.32v with IBT.
What is the cooling and ambient temps?

I feel like such an idiot for not paying attention to this while installing the fans to begin with, but I figured out the issue: neither fan that comes with the NH-D14 is PWM. I can live with that - I was more worried there was something wrong with them! I've set the fans to DC (from PWM) in Asus bios and they now run at a much lower RPM (but still rev up when needed).

Sounds right. I'm just surprised the D14 comes with 3pin fans.
Ive yet to buy a cpu cooler that doesn't come with PWM fans, its kind of the only fan you would want PWM to prevent those low voltage spin up issues.

 

[Iced]

Pretty good, and very good chip if its doing 4.8Ghz 1.32v with IBT.
What is the cooling and ambient temps?



Sounds right. I'm just surprised the D14 comes with 3pin fans.
Ive yet to buy a cpu cooler that doesn't come with PWM fans, its kind of the only fan you would want PWM to prevent those low voltage spin up issues.

Apparently the "SE2011" version came with PWM fans, but it has been discontinued.

 

[Iced]

Don't worry about it, my bios also constantly shows USB drives even though it's just my empty card reader lol.

As long as your O/S drive is set as your primary boot drive the bios won't be searching the others and wasting time anyways.

Thanks! I'm still curious about why it lists them (especially after I've disabled them), but I figured it wasn't anything to be concerned with.

 

[RamaTheVoice]

I'm going to try OCing my 6600K on a Z170-XP-SLI soon, does anyone have any tips? I'm very much a beginner at this and work best with step-by-step instructions.

Cooler is a CM Nepton 140XL btw.

Also, I've always wondered how reliable a motherboard's OC presets were. There's an option in BIOS to just pick a frequency and let the mobo do the rest. Doesn't seem ideal to me but who knows?

 

[danthefan]

So.... something really worrying just happened.

About 4 or 5 days ago I got the RX480 Sapphire Nitro+ 8GB. So far so good up to now, but I was playing TW3 earlier and the whole computer crashed with the screen turning red. Everything was unresponsive so I had to hold down the power button to turn it off, left it a few mins, turned it on again.

Been playing PoE and TW3 since and it hasn't happened again. Google is telling me it can happen if my PSU is overloaded (I have a 750W PSU) or if the temperature on the card goes to high. I've been monitoring my temps when playing and the max I've seen playing TW3 is 78C, with an average of about 74-75C. My understanding for a GPU is these sort of temperatures are fine. Under no load at the moment it's sitting at 39C.

So this red screen, can it just be a one off, what action can I take here to stop it happening again?

 

[data]

So.... something really worrying just happened.

About 4 or 5 days ago I got the RX480 Sapphire Nitro+ 8GB. So far so good up to now, but I was playing TW3 earlier and the whole computer crashed with the screen turning red. Everything was unresponsive so I had to hold down the power button to turn it off, left it a few mins, turned it on again.

Been playing PoE and TW3 since and it hasn't happened again. Google is telling me it can happen if my PSU is overloaded (I have a 750W PSU) or if the temperature on the card goes to high. I've been monitoring my temps when playing and the max I've seen playing TW3 is 78C, with an average of about 74-75C. My understanding for a GPU is these sort of temperatures are fine. Under no load at the moment it's sitting at 39C.

So this red screen, can it just be a one off, what action can I take here to stop it happening again?

RMA it?

 

[Itzcoatl]

So, I've decided to try my hand at my first PC build and could use some help. I started with the "excellent" build in the OP and switched some parts around based on recommendations I saw in the thread.
Link to parts list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bDfqpb
Questionnaire:
Your Current Specs: NA
Budget: $1400ish, US
Main Use:
Light Gaming 4
Gaming 5
Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U) 0
Video Editing 0
Streaming games in HD 0
3D/Model work 0
General Usage 3
Monitor Resolution: will be gaming on my tv from the couch. TV currently 1080p, but would like to accommodate move to 4K eventually.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to srun well: No specifics in mind, but want 60fps with good image quality on the current big releases.
Looking to reuse any parts?: nope
When will you build?: now
Will you be overclocking?: not at first, maybe later when I learn more.

So, how badly have I effed this up? Any obvious mistakes?
One specific question I have is cooling. Do I need to add case fans to the build or is the 1 intake and large grates seem sufficient for what I plan on putting inside?

 

[Accoun]

Anyone?

Actually, I'll probably go with 970, since so far I can't find a rx470 with DVI-I (which is important to me) and I'm not really convinced that things will change.

So, the store has the following cards under the same price. Any specific advices to which to go with?
- MSI GeForce GTX970 4096MB 256bit OC (Armor 2X)
- MSI GeForce GTX970 4096MB 256bit GAMING
- Gigabyte GeForce GTX970 4096MB 256bit WindForce III OC
- ASUS GeForce GTX 970 4096MB 256bit DirectCu II Strix OC
- ASUS GeForce GTX 970 4096MB 256bit DirectCu II Strix
- ASUS GeForce GTX 970 4096MB 256bit DirectCu OC Mini

 

[danthefan]

RMA it?

I guess that's the obvious answer but it's such a pain in the ass to send it back, wait for a new one, etc.

 

[Skyfireblaze]

Anyone?

I can only go from word of mouth but I think either the DirectCu II Strix OC, or the Armor would be fine.

 

[dragn]

Anyone?

would take the msi gaming

heres a video for noise https://www.computerbase.de/videos/2014-10/10-geforce-gtx-970-im-lautstaerke-vergleich/

 

[windfish]

If you don't need the few extra features in windows 10 pro you can save by just getting 10 home x64 edition.

If you don't plan on overclocking the gpu/cpu you can also bump the power supply down to a 550/650 watt gold. Although like my case the 750 was the same price so figured why not.

I'd also personally go with a Noctua NH-U14S cpu cooler, I know it's more expensive but they are much easier to install, come with a tube of excellent thermal compound and have amazing build quality.

If you switch those three things up a bit you should come out ahead I think.

hope that helps!

Thanks for your input, it helped alot! You are right the win10 pro is not needed, I'll get the home version cheaper Checked out the noctua and it seems to be pretty quite with a good performance and very easy install (which, for me, is very important )...
So I changed the fan and went for a EVGA SuperNova 650 G2 saving another 40,- bucks!
Would the 650 still be sufficient when I might overclock the system a little down the road?

New setup would be
1 Western Digital WD Blue 1TB, 64MB Cache, SATA 6Gb/s (WD10EZEX)
1 SanDisk Extreme PRO 240GB, SATA (SDSSDXPS-240G-G25)
1 Intel Core i5-6600K, 4x 3.50GHz, boxed ohne Kühler (BX80662I56600K)
1 G.Skill RipJaws V rot DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR4-3000, CL15-16-16-35 (F4-3000C15D-16GVRB)
1 Palit GeForce GTX 1070 Gamerock Premium, 8GB GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort (NE51070H15P2G)
1 ASUS Z170-A (90MB0LS0-M0EAY0)
1 LG Electronics GH24NSB0 schwarz, SATA, bulk (GH24NSB0.AUAA10B)
1 Noctua NH-U14S
1 Fractal Design Define R5 Black, schallgedämmt (FD-CA-DEF-R5-BK)
1 EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650 650W ATX 2.3 (220-G2-0650-Y3)

with a total of € 1366,86 (+ win10) hurray

If there are no further objections this will be my new baby very soon.. getting really excited!

 

[Sniffynose]

Thanks for your input, it helped alot! You are right the win10 pro is not needed, I'll get the home version cheaper Checked out the noctua and it seems to be pretty quite with a good performance and very easy install (which, for me, is very important )...
So I changed the fan and went for a EVGA SuperNova 650 G2 saving another 40,- bucks!
Would the 650 still be sufficient when I might overclock the system a little down the road?

New setup would be
1 Western Digital WD Blue 1TB, 64MB Cache, SATA 6Gb/s (WD10EZEX)
1 SanDisk Extreme PRO 240GB, SATA (SDSSDXPS-240G-G25)
1 Intel Core i5-6600K, 4x 3.50GHz, boxed ohne Kühler (BX80662I56600K)
1 G.Skill RipJaws V rot DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR4-3000, CL15-16-16-35 (F4-3000C15D-16GVRB)
1 Palit GeForce GTX 1070 Gamerock Premium, 8GB GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort (NE51070H15P2G)
1 ASUS Z170-A (90MB0LS0-M0EAY0)
1 LG Electronics GH24NSB0 schwarz, SATA, bulk (GH24NSB0.AUAA10B)
1 Noctua NH-U14S
1 Fractal Design Define R5 Black, schallgedämmt (FD-CA-DEF-R5-BK)
1 EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650 650W ATX 2.3 (220-G2-0650-Y3)

with a total of € 1366,86 (+ win10) hurray

If there are no further objections this will be my new baby very soon.. getting really excited!

650 would be perfectly fine =)

 

[Sniffynose]

Thanks! I'm still curious about why it lists them (especially after I've disabled them), but I figured it wasn't anything to be concerned with.

I think sometimes it sees usb/ssd drives as hot swappable and ejectable so it refreshes them each boot as being viable to launch from.

 

[The Bad Guy]

Anyone?

- MSI GeForce GTX970 4096MB 256bit GAMING
- Gigabyte GeForce GTX970 4096MB 256bit WindForce III OC
- ASUS GeForce GTX 970 4096MB 256bit DirectCu II Strix OC

Looking at the specs they all seem to have the same base and core clock speeds. I guess it would be down to personally preferences on the look or brand.

Though the Gigabyte has 1 HDMI and 3 Displayports. Where as the other two only have 1 displayport. If output ports are important to you.

I would be interested to know how much you would be getting them for. The 1060's are close in price, with a performance bump.

 

[thelastcrusader]

Anyone know if I can oc my 1080 past 2126 core clock? I pushed the core and memory and the thing is barely hittng 70 degrees after hours of intense gaming.

 

[Accoun]

I would be interested to know how much you would be getting them for. The 1060's are close in price, with a performance bump.

I'm in Poland. Those are around $270, while the 1060 are about $350 at least. And they don't have DVI-I (unless there is passive conversion to VGA for DisplayPort, like for DVI-I).

 

[didamangi]

- MSI GeForce GTX970 4096MB 256bit GAMING
- Gigabyte GeForce GTX970 4096MB 256bit WindForce III OC
- ASUS GeForce GTX 970 4096MB 256bit DirectCu II Strix OC

Looking at the specs they all seem to have the same base and core clock speeds. I guess it would be down to personally preferences on the look or brand.

Though the Gigabyte has 1 HDMI and 3 Displayports. Where as the other two only have 1 displayport. If output ports are important to you.

I would be interested to know how much you would be getting them for. The 1060's are close in price, with a performance bump.

1060 don't have DVI-I i think, which is important to him/her.

Anyone?

I would pick MSI GeForce GTX970 4096MB 256bit GAMING based on the reviews. Lowest temp on all of them and no sound on idle.

 

[super-famicom]

Any recommendations for a good wireless network adapter? I'm moving next month and will be needing one.

 

[The Dear Leader]

Any recommendations for a good wireless network adapter? I'm moving next month and will be needing one.

I've been using a D-Link AC1200 Wireless Adapter for about 6 months with zero problems, it gives me my full internet speed and it's been incredibly reliable.

 

[HarryDemeanor]

So I recently bought a bunch of upgrades for my PC and I just got around to installing them yesterday.

Intel Core i7 6700k
Noctua NH-D15
Asus Z170 Pro Gaming
16 GB G.Skill DDR4 3000 RAM
EVGA GeForce GTX 1080

I've been looking at HWMonitor since I got Windows up and running and I'm noticing something really strange with my temps. They're fluctuating like crazy between 30 degrees and 64 degrees. I've reseated the heatsink twice through the proper way of cleaning thermal paste and all that jazz, yet I'm still seeing this strange activity. Anyone know what could be causing this?

 

[BrokenArrow]

So I recently bought a bunch of upgrades for my PC and I just got around to installing them yesterday.

Intel Core i7 6700k
Noctua NH-D15
Asus Z170 Pro Gaming
16 GB G.Skill DDR4 3000 RAM
EVGA GeForce GTX 1080

I've been looking at HWMonitor since I got Windows up and running and I'm noticing something really strange with my temps. They're fluctuating like crazy between 30 degrees and 64 degrees. I've reseated the heatsink twice through the proper way of cleaning thermal paste and all that jazz, yet I'm still seeing this strange activity. Anyone know what could be causing this?

Have you tried recalibrating the coolers in your UEFI settings? Asus has a one-click-optimizer for coolers built into this motherboard's UEFI, maybe that will fix it.

 

[HarryDemeanor]

Have you tried recalibrating the coolers in your UEFI settings? Asus has a one-click-optimizer for coolers built into this motherboard's UEFI, maybe that will fix it.

I'll take a look at that.

 

[LilJoka]

So I recently bought a bunch of upgrades for my PC and I just got around to installing them yesterday.

Intel Core i7 6700k
Noctua NH-D15
Asus Z170 Pro Gaming
16 GB G.Skill DDR4 3000 RAM
EVGA GeForce GTX 1080

I've been looking at HWMonitor since I got Windows up and running and I'm noticing something really strange with my temps. They're fluctuating like crazy between 30 degrees and 64 degrees. I've reseated the heatsink twice through the proper way of cleaning thermal paste and all that jazz, yet I'm still seeing this strange activity. Anyone know what could be causing this?

What are the gaming temps?
Skylake is prone to temp spikes. It all depends how much headroom was left between the die and IHS. Some get it worse than others causing higher temps.

Also make sure Asus isn't Turbo'ing all cores at max load, as that would feed extra vcore to the chip giving higher than usual temps. I wouldn't expect a VID of 1.37v at stock.

 

[Gritesh]

Overclock that 2500k to hell and back. Even on air (not stock) you can get a pretty significant upgrade.

Oh I've had it stable at good Temps for like 5 years at 4.3 ghz.

Was more or less curious about any new tech/more cores helping in any regard but it appears I'll be holding onto my 2500kids lovingly for a while yet.

 

[StrikeNinja24]

So I jumped at buying a PSU unit yesterday on ebay with the 15 dollars off a purchase of 75 or more. An EVGA 700W was already 15 bucks off down to 50 on newegg, and it was priced the same on their site, so managed to snag that and best buy gamers club card for 20 to push it over 75 with shipping attached. So now my setup looks like this for now.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/StrikeNinja24/saved/#view=JCNbt6

I'm going into October/November to really start bringing these parts together, but I don't really see any flexibility in pricing with any of the remaining pieces as of now. Are there any worthwhile alternatives to look out for? I picked the MSI Motherboard because it had WIFI and Bluetooth built into it, and wonder if it's a better option than to get a regular Motherboard and just get an adapter.

I'm also realizing the struggles of getting a newly released GPU. Are the 1060s and the 480s coming back in stock soon? Are there any good alternatives if they don't?

 

[Elitist1945]

How do I revert to old Nvidia drivers? My GPU has crashed twice today (everyday since updating the drivers) and I'm certain its the new drivers that are doing it.

 

[HarryDemeanor]

What are the gaming temps?
Skylake is prone to temp spikes. It all depends how much headroom was left between the die and IHS. Some get it worse than others causing higher temps.

Also make sure Asus isn't Turbo'ing all cores at max load, as that would feed extra vcore to the chip giving higher than usual temps. I wouldn't expect a VID of 1.37v at stock.

It's looking like the mid 60s.A bit hard to get a good reading as the temperatures are dropping to the 30s one second then to the 50s and then back down to the 40s. It's super weird.

 

[LilJoka]

It's looking like the mid 60s.A bit hard to get a good reading as the temperatures are dropping to the 30s one second then to the 50s and then back down to the 40s. It's super weird.

Well what's running in the background? Something must be using the CPU.

 

[Labadal]

My graphics card died, so I am looking for a new PC. I've had this one for 7 years or close to that. I'm looking at this:
https://www.inet.se/produkt/1517096/taurus-overkill-gtx-1070/#specs

Is this a decent computer that can play most games that are currently out? It would cost me approx. $1900.