Reposting this as it seemed it was lost on the previous page.I apologize if this seems like a repost, don't mean to do that at all, bot trying to spam.
Was wondering the opinions on this build I managed to decide on in a short period of time.
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. ALL TAXES are included.
Could someone give my build a look and tell me their opinion on the previous page. Seems like I'm always at the end of the page when I post the build :/.
PCPartPicker part list: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/7kX68K
Price breakdown by merchant: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/7kX68K/by_merchant/
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.22 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Asus H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($83.91 @ shopRBC)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($50.83 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.21 @ DirectCanada)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1060 6GB Mini Video Card ($372.84 @ Vuugo)
Case: Corsair 100R ATX Mid Tower Case ($50.85)
Power Supply: Thermaltake TR2 600W ATX Power Supply ($66.65 @ Newegg Canada)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN881ND PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($26.20 @ DirectCanada)
CPU" Intel i5 Core 6600k ($305.00 @ NeweggCanada via Ebay.ca)
Total: $1038.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. ALL TAXES are included.
So this is my new build I ordered parts for yesterday. Some of the retailers and prices are not correct here, true total is like $1070. How is this build exactly? I was seriously tight on budget, my previous PC could barely run previous gen games on high. I would think this could play almost all games at 1080p 60 with max settings?
Reposting this as it seemed it was lost on the previous page.I apologize if this seems like a repost, don't mean to do that at all, bot trying to spam.
Was wondering the opinions on this build I managed to decide on in a short period of time.
I totally agree with you on everything but as you said I don't have much room when it comes to budget. I was thinking of going for a Z170-A for the future when I have more money to spray around. And I was thinking of getting this http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_1238_442&item_id=053053CPU: Intel i5 Core 6600k ($305.00 @ NeweggCanada via Ebay.ca)
- Do you do rendering/other CPU-heavy work on your computer? IF yes, invest on i7-6700K. This is optional though and i5 is completely fine for gaming uses.
Motherboard: Asus H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 ($83.91 @ shopRBC)
- Invest on proper motherboard, Asus Z170-A is a popular choice.
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 ($50.83 @ Amazon Canada)
- Invest on 2x 8GB to get all benefits from Dual Channel memory, and maybe look for little faster like 2666MHz.
Storage: A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5 SSD($54.21 @ DirectCanada)
- I'd personally go for Samsung 850 EVO- series SSD but this is optional and anything should work.
Power Supply: Thermaltake TR2 600W ATX Power Supply ($66.65 @ Newegg Canada)
- Invest on more reliable PSU, Seasonic or whatever is the most recommended currently. Do not cheap out on PSU.
These are my tips for your build, feel free to ignore them as it will cost you more but I think all of the changes are for your good.
Go for the Hyper 212 EVO cpu cooler (or a cryorig H7)
You chose an unlocked CPU, but your motherboard doesn't support overclocking. Z170 motherboards are intended for overclocking.
I'm not sure how reliable that particular PSU is
Try going for a Samsung 850 evo instead of adata
as already said, you need to change your motherboard to be compatible with your cpu and maybe change your ssd/psu. for skylake cpu's you'll need a z170 board. for ssd i recommend samsung (i have an 850 evo) and for PSU i would recommend an EVGA gs/g2 model. i have the Evga 750w g2. don't cheap out on your PSU!
also you only have one 8GB stick of RAM. you should get two 4GB's to run it in dual channel mode. 2133mhz speed is perfectly fine but the difference in price between 2133 and 3200mhz is very little (here in the uk it's a difference of ~£10). personally i'd recommend 2400-2666 for gaming and only go above that if you do a lot heavy non gaming tasks such as video editing/encoding or 3d work.
I totally agree with you on everything but as you said I don't have much room when it comes to budget. I was thinking of going for a Z170-A for the future when I have more money to spray around. And I was thinking of getting this http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_1238_442&item_id=053053
I do know I chose an unlocked, deal was better than a i5 6500 or 6600 at base price, had to get it. And again I intend to replace my motherboard in future as well as upgrade my RAM.
Very good way of looking at it, I agree with you but I was intending on this build for gaming in my dorm as I will be leaving all my consoles behind. It was really the only option and I do understand the foolish nature of the motherboard swap out but It's all I can really do at this moment. And my budget wont change soon, if anything It will change in 9 or so months but even that isn't a guarantee.If you're on tight budget now and that will change soon, I'd probably get proper parts and just skip GPU completely, then buy GPU when you have the money to do so.
That way you could use the computer with integrated GPU for browsing internet etc. and attaching GPU to complete build is super easy, so much easier than changing motherboard in future. You can't really play with integrated but depending on your situation, this way you would waste no money on worse parts that you would just replace in future anyway.
I totally agree with you on everything but as you said I don't have much room when it comes to budget. I was thinking of going for a Z170-A for the future when I have more money to spray around. And I was thinking of getting this http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_1238_442&item_id=053053
I do know I chose an unlocked, deal was better than a i5 6500 or 6600 at base price, had to get it. And again I intend to replace my motherboard in future as well as upgrade my RAM.
I don't know what your saying about the CPU not working with Motherboard or RAM, of which is just not true. The motherboard just doesn't have overclocking ability and thats really all thats "incompatible" when it comes to these parts.
yeah that's what i meant. i assume if you are buying a K cpu you plan on overclocking. that motherboard won't overclock. yeah it will work but you can't overclock. i didn't realise that you were planning to upgrade your motherboard in the future. as for the RAM, i admit i made a mistake there. i thought your board was a haswell model but yep that board does support DDR4 which is why i edited my post.
Fair enough. Didn't see the edit :/. Now that I have you attention how is that PSU I linked up there? I've heard that Corsair Builder Series Rails aren't the most mighty and reliable. I was hoping for 600w but I don't intend on SLI anytime (especially as 1060 doesn't support it) so a 500w should do fine.
i think it would be fine but again i wouldn't cheap out on PSU. check out the PSU tier list and get something from Tier 1 or 2. and yeah i think 500W should be fine for an i5-6600K/1060.
http://i.imgur.com/361pNaI.png
Have you guys ever had one part of a monitor be brighter than another? Bought an Asus MG248 and the bottom right section is a brighter than the top left by a noticeable amount.
Could someone give my build a look and tell me their opinion on the previous page. Seems like I'm always at the end of the page when I post the build :/.
Currently rocking an almost 100% Noctua setup. Only exception is the 200mm front intaka as no-one makes those anymore really.What kind of fans do you guys use for your case?
Hm, am I being too nitpicky?
Nop, if I had that screen I would return it and get new.
What is your brightness at? Try something near 30 and check how it looks then if its somewhere 80-100 now.
Yes it will look dark first but when you get used to it after a bit its much better and if that "bleed" is because of too much brightness it will be gone too.
How much potential damage can a power strip tripping do to a PC when it forces a shutdown during use?
Question about CPU fans.
Specs:
i7 6700k
Asus Z170-A
Noctua NH-D14
I have both fans for the cpu cooler plugged into the CPU_FAN header via the splitter that came with it. In bios, I have all my fans set to PWM at standard speed, including the CPU fans. Right now the system is idling, and the RPMs read:
Chassis1 600 RPM (140mm top)
CPU 1355 RPM (2x 140mm via y split from Noctua)
Chassis2 534 RPM (120mm rear)
Chassis3 580 RPM (140mm front)
Chassis4 609 RPM (140mm front)
Not that I necessarily mind the CPU fans running at such a high RPM as they are fairly quiet, but is there any reason why they would? If I run Intel Burn Test, the CPU fans only hit around 1400 RPM, which isn't much higher than idle. Temps for all 4 cores right now are all below 30.
Since games won't use the 3-4x faster read / write speeds, you won't notice any differences.worth it to get a m.2 ssd for games? or will I realistically not be able to tell the difference between the m.2 and a regular 2.5" sata 3 ssd?
I can't decide between a 1440p or 1080p Asus G-Sync monitor. I've got a GTX1080 so it feels like 1080p is wasted power but at twice the price for 1440p it just doesn't seem worth it.
I can't decide between a 1440p or 1080p Asus G-Sync monitor. I've got a GTX1080 so it feels like 1080p is wasted power but at twice the price for 1440p it just doesn't seem worth it.
Hm, am I being too nitpicky?
Get a BB Code PCpartpicker link for this build up and that'll help us help you.
Do they have all same specs but other is 1080p and other 1440p?
Basically. 1080p is 24", 1440P is 27". I think the 1080p version has 1ms vs 4ms on the 1440P. The 1080P actually over clocks to 180hz
Just can't decide if I want to jump up to 1440p. I kinda feel like a high refresh rate is wasted pushing more pixels. I'll have to start turning settings down again.
1080p screen is TN and 1440p IPS?
What specific screens are those?
How is high refresh rate wasted with 1440p + gtx1080? gtx1080 can crunch 1440p easily over 100fps.
Yeah it's TN vs IPS. I thought they were both IPS.
It's the ASUS PG248Q vs PG279Q. I can grab the Dell S2716DGR for a TN 1440p at the same price as the PG248Q
Just got the Dell today from the Best Buy sale. The TN panel isn't as big of a deal as I was afraid. As far as I can tell, this was the best deal to get in on 1440p/G-sync. I'd definitely recommend seriously considering it.
Only note is that you need to adjust the gamma in Windows or Nvidia control panel, as it's way too high out of the box (and you can't adjust via the monitor controls). Once that's taken care of, it looks great.
Yeah it's TN vs IPS. I thought they were both IPS.
It's the ASUS PG248Q vs PG279Q. I can grab the Dell S2716DGR for a TN 1440p at the same price as the PG248Q
Do you find the menus lacking to be an issue? I've read the menus are pretty bare even to some regular monitors let alone the Asus ROG monitors.
Your Current Specs: none
Budget: $800-1000, United States
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming 5, Gaming 3, Emulation (PS2/Wii/Wii U) 0, Video Editing 5, Streaming games in HD 0, 3D/Model work (and what program) 0, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 5.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run: Adobe Premiere, Final Draft, Photoshop, AfterEffects
Looking to reuse any parts?: no
When will you build?: by September 1
Will you be overclocking?: i don't think so.
Thank you!
Hm, am I being too nitpicky?
Is 212 EVO still the top choice for below-topend? Maybe we can re-evaluate its default choice status before it becomes another 2500K/Z-5500.
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/cpu_air_cooler_mega_test/1
The 212 has been a poor choice for a long time now, but people here keep suggesting it.
Stop.
EDIT: No loudness metric in that cooler test? Dumb.
The ARCTIC Freezer i32 seems to be the best for how cheap it is
Seems more expensive in NA. More than a 212, definitely more than a 212 during its frequent discounts.
I don't think it gets recommended because it's an amazing cooler, but because it's not uncommon for it to cost under $20 after rebate. For a better performing cooler you are probably looking at spending at least $30. At regular price? Go for an alternative. But it's hard to justify spending 2x the money for a cooler that might be slightly quieter or get 2C lower temps, especially since the people getting recommendations from this thread are not going to be hardcore enthusiast overclockers chasing every fraction of a degree they can get.
They are both $30 on amazon. At that price, I'm not waiting around for a rebate if I'm building a computer.
I have no idea if the Arctic is ever on sale like the Hyper 212 like you mentioned.
The 212 has been a poor choice for a long time now, but people here keep suggesting it.
Stop.
EDIT: No loudness metric in that cooler test? Dumb.