• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

Status
Not open for further replies.

enewtabie

Member
So apparently i need to upgrade something on my PC, i tried playing Battlefield 1 on Ultra, got 60-70 fps for a few minutes, after it dipped down to about 4 fps, and stayed at 4 fps.
What could be causing this?



I'm planning on buying a new graphics card in a couple of weeks, would that resolve it? Should i get more ram?

Your around the minimum specs for playing BF1. Card would be the biggest benefit. Ram is cheap I'd double up.
 

AndyD

aka andydumi
Which one can you find for a better price? I'd suggest 8GB for the 480 or 6GB for the 1060. Even if there's not a huge difference now with regard to the VRAM, there is in some games and that's likely to increase as time moves forward.

If I go 480 it will be the 8GB for sure. I'm not in a rush, anytime in September October is reasonable. So I am more looking at what's good (out of the million variations out there) then I will watch for a good price on it. I have usually stuck with Sapphire AMD cards, but I don't see a reason not to try something else.
 
I just upgraded from rusty DDR3 1600 RAM to DDR3 2400 and hell this is a much bigger upgrade than I expected, minimum fps in demanding games like The Witcher 3 and Battlefield 1 saw a quite significant increase.
 
Why do you wanna go with an Mini-ITX board in an ATX case? :p
Not that it's impossible but don't expect the Wifi to be anything special and installing the cooler on that small board will also be a bit of a mess (from the looks of it, it will barely fit and maybe even block access to either the PCI-Express or RAM slots) . I would go with an ATX board or mATX. The latter are cheaper. If possible pull a network cable to your PC. Powerline adapters don't have that much throughput. If there is no other way than wifi, you could go with this board but I would suggest a smaller chassis in this case. Your Power Supply is also a bit overkill. 500-600W should sufficient.

I got the 700W on sale for like 35 bucks new, so that's why I went with it. My mindset was to get a bigger case to give me room to move around for a first time build. The issue is my setup is going in the basement, and doesn't have the luxury of running an Ethernet cord downstairs at the moment. I've been trying to find a smaller cooler.
 

levious

That throwing stick stunt of yours has boomeranged on us.
I installed a 980ti on an i5 4670, 8 gig ram (1600) setup.

I cannot get the hitman benchmark to get much better than 30fps average. Whereas my i7 3770, 16 gig ram build with a 1080 gpu has no problem hitting 60fps.

Is the gpu power that much of a difference? Both cpus are not overclocked. Is the ram difference that important?
 

me0wish

Member
What are people's opinions on Fractal Designs Nano 202?

Few other questions:

Would the stock intel cpu fan be enough on a i5 6500 in that small of a case? Also thinking of adding one, maybe two? case fans behind a EVGA 6GB GTX 1060.

This would be my first PC build would like something that could be a desktop computer but also not look weird in the living room connected to a TV. Mostly worried about overheating.

Also is it expected that the price of 1060s will go down in Canada / US over the next few months when stock evens out? Currently $350 + in Canada at the moment.

I just ordered my PC 2 days ago, I was sold on NODE 202, but I kept reading that its not the greatest and it has some heating issues, plus it has no space for 3.5" hard drives, so I went with Thermaltake Core V1.
 

luoapp

Member
I installed a 980ti on an i5 4670, 8 gig ram (1600) setup.

I cannot get the hitman benchmark to get much better than 30fps average. Whereas my i7 3770, 16 gig ram build with a 1080 gpu has no problem hitting 60fps.

Is the gpu power that much of a difference? Both cpus are not overclocked. Is the ram difference that important?

Install afterburner and check out?
 
I have a Sapphire Tri-X R9 390X, a long-ass card. I'm looking to downsize my current PC case from a Corsair 300R to something micro-ATX, if possible.

Any case suggestions? I'm not averse to buying into watercooling for my current CPU, an i5 4690K, if I'm to fit everything altogether (I use a Hyper 212 Evo right now).
 
From my understanding it only gains advantage in recent titles that require a lot of fast data streaming, anything below that or if you are GPU bound, this won't help you that much. I'm playing at 1080p with a 1080 so GPU is never an issue.

Huh. I'm also running a 1080 @1080/144hz.

Time to look into spending more money.
 

Waaghals

Member
I have a rather old Antech (I think 600 series) case and a non-modular 750w corsair PSU.
The antech is big, heavy and has issues with cable management.

Needless to say the inside of my PC is a mess, though temperatures are just fine, even under load.

Still, I want to exchange both the case and the PSU with one that is somewhat more compact and offers better cable management.

I have been looking at the recommendations in the OP, but I would very much like this thread's input on this as you have helped me greatly in the past.

Is there a Case and or PSU that is recommended? Price is not *that* much of a factor.

I have an i5 6600k @ 4,4 ghz and an GTX 970. I use a Hyper EVO 212 cooler, but I'm willing to switch it for a more compact version.
The case should accommodate One single High-end graphics card for future upgrade ability.

Thanks in advance.
 

enewtabie

Member
I have a rather old Antech (I think 600 series) case and a non-modular 750w corsair PSU.
The antech is big, heavy and has issues with cable management.

Needless to say the inside of my PC is a mess, though temperatures are just fine, even under load.

Still, I want to exchange both the case and the PSU with one that is somewhat more compact and offers better cable management.

I have been looking at the recommendations in the OP, but I would very much like this thread's input on this as you have helped me greatly in the past.

Is there a Case and or PSU that is recommended? Price is not *that* much of a factor.

I have an i5 6600k @ 4,4 ghz and an GTX 970. I use a Hyper EVO 212 cooler, but I'm willing to switch it for a more compact version.
The case should accommodate One single High-end graphics card for future upgrade ability.

Thanks in advance.

EVGA G2 650 is all you need. Cases I like are the Corsair Carbide series/Nzxt s340 and 440
 

ISee

Member
I installed a 980ti on an i5 4670, 8 gig ram (1600) setup.

I cannot get the hitman benchmark to get much better than 30fps average. Whereas my i7 3770, 16 gig ram build with a 1080 gpu has no problem hitting 60fps.

Is the gpu power that much of a difference? Both cpus are not overclocked. Is the ram difference that important?

Even my 980(oc) is able to hit ~60fps in Hitman (dx11, 1080p) with some drops here and there. Of course I'm parring the gpu with a 6700k (4.5ghz) but the 4670 should definitely be enough. There must be something else going on.

I should probably do a clean install of Windows when I build my new PC, right?

I changed my mobo, ram and cpu a few months ago and just for fun I booted from my system ssd (win10 pro) before reinstalling everything fresh. And to my very surprise it ran, I was able to install the new mobo drivers (etc.), usb worked, etc.
But of course I still did a new install, just to be safe.
 

levious

That throwing stick stunt of yours has boomeranged on us.
Install afterburner and check out?

Even my 980(oc) is able to hit ~60fps in Hitman (dx11, 1080p) with some drops here and there. Of course I'm parring the gpu with a 6700k (4.5ghz) but the 4670 should definitely be enough. There must be something else going on.


Will do afterburner tonight. Thanks.
 
So this might not be the best thread to ask but would someone have an idea what just happened to my 2015 Macbook Air?

Yesterday I realized I haven't installed the Windows 10 Anniversary Update on it yet so I booted Windows and let it download. While the updates got installed the fans of the Macbook suddenly kicked in despite the CPU utilization was only around 30% which already made me wonder because the fans never kick in unless I run Dolphin for fun but I didn't think much of it and thought it was just the updates installing taxing the hardware. After the updates were installed and Windows rebooted the fans were still kicking in overdrive the entire time, even at the bootscreen and the Macbook was very warm at this point, CPU utilization still was nothing to write home about.

I thought this is odd, pressed reboot and wanted to boot OSX. Now things got really weird, OSX normally doesn't need longer than 5 seconds to boot, now however it sat for around 30 seconds on the loading-bar with the fans still running. Instead of OSX I was present the OSX Recovery Options which scared the hell out of me. I decided to just shut the system down and do a coldboot. Before I started the machine up again I let it sit for a minute and then pressed the power-button.

No fan noise and OSX booted directly to the desktop in the usual 5 second fashion and everything works normally and I can't find any fault, does anyone have an idea what happened here? o.o
 
Hi all, just been installing the secondary SATA HDD into my new build, I've got as far as this but don't know how allocate it to get it to actually be recognised - it's not showing up in My Computer:

QFeGRrZ.png


What am I missing? Thanks.

Edit: Never mind, clicked around until I sorted it out myself :D Feels good! (In case it helps anyone in future, you right-click on the unallocated disk and select 'create new volume', and then it's really straight forward from there.
 
The Node 202 is a great case if you need your build to fit in an entertainment center. If you're not super constrained by case height, a different case will be a lot easier. The Node 804 follows the same design language, but fits a much larger variety of components.

The stock cooler is "enough" in that it will keep your cpu from thermally throttling itself, but you'll have a better experience with an aftermarket cooler. It'll be much quieter and keep your cpu cooler.

Stock is fine, pc's sip power now, same goes for 1060 under load. Just have at least one good intake and exhaust.

Enough? Sure. But it will be very audible in load situations so it depends on how prone you are to fan noise.

I just ordered my PC 2 days ago, I was sold on NODE 202, but I kept reading that its not the greatest and it has some heating issues, plus it has no space for 3.5" hard drives, so I went with Thermaltake Core V1.

Thanks for the input!

Starting to wonder if I shouldn't just go for something like the FD Node 804 or Nano S. Wouldn't have to worry about cooling as much, and I kind of like being able to peer into the insides of the case, not sure if that is something that people usually get over after a couple of weeks.
 
Is there a decent PC parts builder? As a place you can pick parts, or buy the parts and take them to them, and build your pc for you?

I've been building and upgrading PCs since the early 1980s. I know how to do it. However I've developed a slight tremor in my hands over the past year or so. I recently was working on one of my sons' pc (new heat sink and a better video card) and it was really really difficult. The tighter the space I have to work in, the worse my hands started to shake. (that's on top of having my right right hand mostly paralyzed)

I might still build my next computer myself but it might take a couple of days with breaks and all. Also to make it easy, I might get a super large tower or something like it with lots of room to work.
 

kennah

Member
Is there a decent PC parts builder? As a place you can pick parts, or buy the parts and take them to them, and build your pc for you?

I've been building and upgrading PCs since the early 1980s. I know how to do it. However I've developed a slight tremor in my hands over the past year or so. I recently was working on one of my sons' pc (new heat sink and a better video card) and it was really really difficult. The tighter the space I have to work in, the worse my hands started to shake. (that's on top of having my right right hand mostly paralyzed)

I might still build my next computer myself but it might take a couple of days with breaks and all. Also to make it easy, I might get a super large tower or something like it with lots of room to work.

There are some gaffers that do it. NCIX will assemble and instlal windows for $50 if you buy all the parts from them. There are also some luxury builders like 'snef' who will make you a custom artisanal PC if you have the budget for it.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thanks for the input!

Starting to wonder if I shouldn't just go for something like the FD Node 804 or Nano S. Wouldn't have to worry about cooling as much, and I kind of like being able to peer into the insides of the case, not sure if that is something that people usually get over after a couple of weeks.

Nano S ITX
Node 304
Phanteks ITX
Lian Li PC 05S
SIlverstone RVZ02
 

haveheart

Banned
My post got buried... I'll try again and make it short this time.

New build will be a 6600k in a Fractal Nano S.

Which CPU cooler should I take?

Corsair H60, Corsair H45 or a Noctua? I'd like to go with a aio water cooler...
 
Wow, I never knew there was a massive performance bump for Pascal cards. GTX 1060 80% more than GTX 960.

I feel bad for my best friend who spent $3k on a 980m SLI laptop.
 

LilJoka

Member
My post got buried... I'll try again and make it short this time.

New build will be a 6600k in a Fractal Nano S.

Which CPU cooler should I take?

Corsair H60, Corsair H45 or a Noctua? I'd like to go with a aio water cooler...

IMO go with air, pump noise is constant on the AIO watercoolers, but air can be silent.
 
So i have a i5-4440s in my computer atm. I plan on getting a 4k tv and a gtx1080. Would this processor be able to handle 4k resolution for games or should I upgrade to an i7 processor?

Also for ram, do I need to match the ram sticks or can I stick two different brand 8gb sticks in?
 

Exile20

Member
My post got buried... I'll try again and make it short this time.

New build will be a 6600k in a Fractal Nano S.

Which CPU cooler should I take?

Corsair H60, Corsair H45 or a Noctua? I'd like to go with a aio water cooler...

Water coolers are good if you are doing insane overclocking or you are doing an aesthetic build but air coolers are normally quieter and cheaper.
 

Bloodember

Member
IMO go with air, pump noise is constant on the AIO watercoolers, but air can be silent.

My post got buried... I'll try again and make it short this time.

New build will be a 6600k in a Fractal Nano S.

Which CPU cooler should I take?

Corsair H60, Corsair H45 or a Noctua? I'd like to go with a aio water cooler...

Water coolers are good if you are doing insane overclocking or you are doing an aesthetic build but air coolers are normally quieter and cheaper.

I've had a few water coolers over the years and my case fans have always been louder than the pump. Right now I use a NZXT x61 and I don't hear the pump at all, I also use it in silent mode. Only thing I hear are my case fans.
 

joecanada

Member
hey all. Thanks for all the help over the past while. I'm no pro but just thought I would share my latest update:

4nMENb3.jpg



I have a question about the whole power button, face , etc of the pc. I bought it as a cyberpower pc, and it came with a fan controller, front display, etc, its a fairly basic one but I am trying to figure out the fan control (its just two dials).

one dial controls the front fan and another dial says top but there was no top fan. so I installed one but just plugged it into the connector with the back fan which is not controlled (it just seems to stay on).

so should there be a connector that corresponds to that dial? the one that says (top)... and I should just be able to find that connector to control my other fans?

also my fans have the option to connect to mobo but I don't really see the point? I just make sure they are quiet and have them on full blast all the time.

got that 1060 SC up to 75 degrees last night in heaven benchmark and it was humming along at over 2000 MHz which is pretty good.... evga ocx keeps crashing on me though I can't use it. :(

edit - resized huge pic lol.
 

LilJoka

Member
Water coolers are good if you are doing insane overclocking or you are doing an aesthetic build but air coolers are normally quieter and cheaper.

I do insane overclocking but still run air.
For example
i7 3960x 4.6-4.8ghz in an mATX Lian li, i7 6700k 4.5Ghz in a node 304 -> silver arrow extreme cooler. Neither case is even "good" for airflow.
I crank up the fans to 2200rpm when stress testing.
Otherwise the fans are locked to 600rpm.

I had the H80i on the 3960x for a while but it was louder when I wasn't stress testing than air due to pump hum and then it died.
I then had the EK L120 water cooling kit, that pump was also louder than air when not running prime95.

I haven't even used high quality fans like what you find with Noctua.

I guess it depends how you run your fans and how many. I went through the fan game and learnt to minimise the number of fans and rpm for maximum silence with little to none increase in temps. Good cable management, pressure and good airflow go much further.
Most people should only be running 3 fans including the CPU fan, but don't.

hey all. Thanks for all the help over the past while. I'm no pro but just thought I would share my latest update:

4nMNb3.jpg



I have a question about the whole power button, face , etc of the pc. I bought it as a cyberpower pc, and it came with a fan controller, front display, etc, its a fairly basic one but I am trying to figure out the fan control (its just two dials).

one dial controls the front fan and another dial says top but there was no top fan. so I installed one but just plugged it into the connector with the back fan which is not controlled (it just seems to stay on).

so should there be a connector that corresponds to that dial? the one that says (top)... and I should just be able to find that connector to control my other fans?

also my fans have the option to connect to mobo but I don't really see the point? I just make sure they are quiet and have them on full blast all the time.

got that 1060 SC up to 75 degrees last night in heaven benchmark and it was humming along at over 2000 MHz which is pretty good.... evga ocx keeps crashing on me though I can't use it. :(

edit - resized huge pic lol.

Your fan controller should have a 3 pin connector for fans to plug into.

Yes, the point of motherboard fan headers is to eliminate the need for fan controllers, it's excess baggage. Motherboard fan software tends to cover all the bases these days with custom fan curves or rpm fixed modes.
 

joecanada

Member
I do insane overclocking but still run air.
For example
i7 3960x 4.6-4.8ghz in an mATX Lian li, i7 6700k 4.5Ghz in a node 304 -> silver arrow extreme cooler. Neither case is even "good" for airflow.
*snip*

Your fan controller should have a 3 pin connector for fans to plug into.

Yes, the point of motherboard fan headers is to eliminate the need for fan controllers, it's excess baggage. Motherboard fan software tends to cover all the bases these days with custom fan curves or rpm fixed modes.

oh thanks but should there be one connector or two then for the fan controller as there are two dials? Like I said the top fan control dial isn't running anything and the "front" dial is running the front fan only... its kind of weird.

also is there a reason to prefer mobo control of fans? I just run them at 75% at all times and make sure they are quiet ones.... I guess it could prolong their life to run less?
 

LilJoka

Member
oh thanks but should there be one connector or two then for the fan controller as there are two dials? Like I said the top fan control dial isn't running anything and the "front" dial is running the front fan only... its kind of weird.

also is there a reason to prefer mobo control of fans? I just run them at 75% at all times and make sure they are quiet ones.... I guess it could prolong their life to run less?

I prefer the motherboard controls since its nearer cable management.

Your fan controller likely uses Molex for a 12v supply and should have multiple 3 pin headers for fans to be connected to - just take a look at the back of it and it should make sense.

I don't even run any molex connectors so that saves a whole cable run. Running via motherboard allows PWM control which lets you run fans slower without problems of spin up from startup - that is if your fans are PWM and have 4 pin fan connectors rather than 3pin.
 

Rizzi

Member
Even my 980(oc) is able to hit ~60fps in Hitman (dx11, 1080p) with some drops here and there. Of course I'm parring the gpu with a 6700k (4.5ghz) but the 4670 should definitely be enough. There must be something else going on.



I changed my mobo, ram and cpu a few months ago and just for fun I booted from my system ssd (win10 pro) before reinstalling everything fresh. And to my very surprise it ran, I was able to install the new mobo drivers (etc.), usb worked, etc.
But of course I still did a new install, just to be safe.
Hmm. Figured it would freak out if you swapped all the components.
 

LilJoka

Member
Guys, I need a new pc. So I used the OP to help pick some parts. What do you guys think of this:

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/BpyrD8

You want a Z170 board to run ram higher than 2133mhz and would allow overclocking the 6700K.

I think you can get Windows a lot cheaper from Reddit. I removed the DVD drive, not sure why it's needed these days. Windows can be installed via USB stick.

Save a bit on the GPU with the MSI.

Swap the ram for faster low profile modules.

Swap the case for something a bit neater, but your choice there. You want an mATX case for an mATX board.

Picked a motherboard that's a bit more expensive but allows SLI.

I would upgrade the PSU to a corsair RMx650.

Higher quality CPU cooler is justified here.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£293.88 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler (£48.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£143.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£75.99 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£184.50 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Video Card (£599.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£67.82 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£88.59 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £1503.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-01 23:22 BST+0100
 

BosSin

Member
You want a Z170 board to run ram higher than 2133mhz and would allow overclocking the 6700K.

I think you can get Windows a lot cheaper from Reddit. I removed the DVD drive, not sure why it's needed these days. Windows can be installed via USB stick.

Save a bit on the GPU with the MSI.

Swap the ram for faster low profile modules.

Swap the case for something a bit neater, but your choice there. You want an mATX case for an mATX board.

Picked a motherboard that's a bit more expensive but allows SLI.

I would upgrade the PSU to a corsair RMx650.

Higher quality CPU cooler is justified here.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£293.88 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler (£48.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£143.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£75.99 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£184.50 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Video Card (£599.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£67.82 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£88.59 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £1503.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-01 23:22 BST+0100

Cheers dude, I did a real quick build and knew that I was probably overlooking a lot of possible cost-cutting. Thanks for the help
 

me0wish

Member
Thanks for the input!

Starting to wonder if I shouldn't just go for something like the FD Node 804 or Nano S. Wouldn't have to worry about cooling as much, and I kind of like being able to peer into the insides of the case, not sure if that is something that people usually get over after a couple of weeks.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cUlqf_izP94

A decent video showing off the Core V1, it looks pretty good if you ask me :p

I was going to add LED fans but I thought I wouldn't really care about them in a week, plus I love using my computer in the dark so I decided against it and just get Noctua fans 80mm fans plus the stock fans.
 

EdLin

Neo Member
I have a Sapphire Tri-X R9 390X, a long-ass card. I'm looking to downsize my current PC case from a Corsair 300R to something micro-ATX, if possible.

Any case suggestions? I'm not averse to buying into watercooling for my current CPU, an i5 4690K, if I'm to fit everything altogether (I use a Hyper 212 Evo right now).

I had that card (or rather, the Nitro Sapphire 390X) in a Cooler Master n200 MicroATX tower case, it fit fine in it. The only thing I didn't like about the case was it's not tool-free.
 

LilJoka

Member
Wait, doesn't XMP allow higher RAM frequencies? I thought it's available on pretty much all LGA1151 boards.

No, XMP is just a profile to easily overclock your ram. The motherboard needs to allow overclocking to support XMP. When you enable XMP, the ram and the CPU memory controller are overclocked which requires voltage tweaks to the ram and the CPU. You can't do either on a non Z series board.
 
It's about time to order some upgrades, going with an i76700k and a 1080 so should be good for a few years. Couple of things I would appreciate some opinions on though.

Thinking of this motherboard, thoughts?
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/msi-...cket-1151-ddr4-atx-motherboard-mb-317-ms.html

Also figured I'd splurge on a new monitor too if I'm grabbing a 1080 but I have no idea what to go for. I'm limited to 24" because of desk space and assume I'll want a 144hz? Monitors are always something I struggle with finding myself though.
 

Elven_Star

Member
No, XMP is just a profile to easily overclock your ram. The motherboard needs to allow overclocking to support XMP. When you enable XMP, the ram and the CPU memory controller are overclocked which requires voltage tweaks to the ram and the CPU. You can't do either on a non Z series board.
OK, would you please tell me why this motherboard lists XMP as one of its features?
https://ca.msi.com/Motherboard/H110M-PRO-VD.html

I'm absolutely clueless about this stuff, and am just trying to learn. Please don't be angry at me :p
 

Dmax3901

Member
I bought a Freesync monitor a while ago and I can't believe I can play Battlefield One at 1440p and not be bothered by inconsistent framerates. I have a r9 290.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom