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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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d[-_-]b

Banned
Anyone build a decent budge PC recently, the links at the start for the google doc and excel sheet no longer exist, so i'm not too sure, looking at cutting costs, so I saw this website portatech that does barebones, i'm sure that they cut costs on ssd, ram, power supply and case, but those I don't mind, I plan to replace those cheaper parts over time. The computer i'm looking at here, it has a 5820K along with an ASUS X99M, those are the main things, along with a cheap case and power supply came to $634.65, would be better just to buy the parts myself and build it from scratch? I'm sure there is a slight markup on getting these components from their site. I have an ssd lying around and I see that windows keys aren't too expensive at least on reddit lol.
 
I was wondering if someone could help me with this strange problem. Few months ago sometimes when I would wake my PC up from sleep it would stay in a black screen and I'd have to hold the power button to restore it. Computer rebooted and it would be where my last session left off like it "saved" it. Did it again today except I couldn't get my screen back at all. Kept saying no display port. Rebooted, removed power cord, everything and it wouldn't come back. PC came on but the monitor just wouldn't display a picture. So, I pulled out my other monitor and used my HDMI port instead and it worked so I plugged it up into my HDMI port on my GPU and it gave me picture again. I played around with all the Display Ports on my GPU and even used a different Display Port cable to see if it was a bad cable. Couldn't get a picture with any of them. Unfortunately, I couldn't test them on my other monitor since it only has HDMI.

Anyways, common causes? I'm thinking either the Display Port went bad in my monitor or my GPU or could it be something as simple as GPU drivers? Really scary and annoying because I now I have to use 60hz refresh rate on my monitor instead of 144hz which is a huge difference to my eyes. Any thoughts on this? Hope it's not a hardware issue somewhere and just buggy Windows 10. I'm pretty sure it only started doing this after I upgraded to W10 and installed a new driver. Definitely not a PSU issue as my old PSU did it and I replaced it with a new one just about a month ago and it seems to work fine. PC has zero issues other than this so I turned sleep off but I want my Display Port back. :(
 

TheSeks

Blinded by the luminous glory that is David Bowie's physical manifestation.
I don't think this Samsung 850 Evo 250Gig Solid State Hard Drive fits my Corsiar case. I'm not seeing a "drive bay" thing in the installation instructions to remove that my regular Hard Drives that are MUUUUUUUUUUUUCH bigger fit into just fine.

Is there any "regular size" SSD's that don't require a modification?
 

Evo X

Member
Is 3,9 Ghz a good OC on a 5820k? I have 1, 13 volt. I tried 4 ghz with 1,15 volt, but it failed, got way too hot.

What CPU cooler do you have? It should not be getting hot at those volts.

I'm running my 5820k at 4.4ghz both core and cache with 1.2v and the temps are still great. This is on a Kraken X61 cooler.

I don't think this Samsung 850 Evo 250Gig Solid State Hard Drive fits my Corsiar case. I'm not seeing a "drive bay" thing in the installation instructions to remove that my regular Hard Drives that are MUUUUUUUUUUUUCH bigger fit into just fine.

Is there any "regular size" SSD's that don't require a modification?

All SSDs are small. Some cases have 2.5" ssd slots. If yours doesn't, you can get a plastic slide in part called a 3.5" drive to 2.5" bay that lets you use the hdd slot to mount the ssd.
 

LilJoka

Member
I don't think this Samsung 850 Evo 250Gig Solid State Hard Drive fits my Corsiar case. I'm not seeing a "drive bay" thing in the installation instructions to remove that my regular Hard Drives that are MUUUUUUUUUUUUCH bigger fit into just fine.

Is there any "regular size" SSD's that don't require a modification?

Mount the SSD in the side panel behind the motherboard.
It doesn't need to be mounted like a HDD does, it can put anywhere, just strap it with zip ties or Velcro out of sight.

Otherwise if you want to use the drive bays, the case accessories should have come with some adaptor that fits in the current drive bay holders, or could be screwed into the drive bays.

What case is this?
 

liezryou

Member
d[-_-]b;215808013 said:
Anyone build a decent budge PC recently, the links at the start for the google doc and excel sheet no longer exist, so i'm not too sure, looking at cutting costs, so I saw this website portatech that does barebones, i'm sure that they cut costs on ssd, ram, power supply and case, but those I don't mind, I plan to replace those cheaper parts over time. The computer i'm looking at here, it has a 5820K along with an ASUS X99M, those are the main things, along with a cheap case and power supply came to $634.65, would be better just to buy the parts myself and build it from scratch? I'm sure there is a slight markup on getting these components from their site. I have an ssd lying around and I see that windows keys aren't too expensive at least on reddit lol.

That is a horrible price for that computer as it doesn't include RAM, HDD or a GPU. The mobo/CPU is also outdated.

What's your budget? This is a pretty solid 800$ build: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Qms3yf. If you are trying to hit 700$, here is the same thing with a tier lower CPU/GPU: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/xQ4LsJ .

Don't cheap out on the power supply, a shitty one can damage your other parts. If you want to cut more, you can go with a cheaper case.
 

Echoes

Member
Thanks to you (and Praxis). I'm clueless with this stuff. Do you mean that it will have a longer life because it'll be under less duress running games at 1080/60? I'm looking to keep the build x monitor at or under $1k

What I mean by a longer life is that the card will last a long time giving you >60fps @ 1080p with max settings (Doom 4 will give you above 100). The 1060 is a fantastic card, but I recommend the 1070 (if your budget allows it) simply to be ahead of the curve for the foreseeable future.
 

BumRush

Member
What I mean by a longer life is that the card will last a long time giving you >60fps @ 1080p with max settings (Doom 4 will give you above 100). The 1060 is a fantastic card, but I recommend the 1070 (if your budget allows it) simply to be ahead of the curve for the foreseeable future.

Thanks. I'd rather spend the extra money and have it last longer.
 

d[-_-]b

Banned
That is a horrible price for that computer as it doesn't include RAM, HDD or a GPU. The mobo/CPU is also outdated.

What's your budget? This is a pretty solid 800$ build: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Qms3yf. If you are trying to hit 700$, here is the same thing with a tier lower CPU/GPU: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/xQ4LsJ .

Thanks for the heads up. Gonna drop the GPU for now to save some cost, not doing any heavy duty gaming, just play league and using a 750Ti which I picked up from a Gaffer. Is the difference between the i7 6700k and i5 6600k not really worth the upgrade?
 

BumRush

Member
That is a horrible price for that computer as it doesn't include RAM, HDD or a GPU. The mobo/CPU is also outdated.

What's your budget? This is a pretty solid 800$ build: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Qms3yf. If you are trying to hit 700$, here is the same thing with a tier lower CPU/GPU: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/xQ4LsJ .

Don't cheap out on the power supply, a shitty one can damage your other parts. If you want to cut more, you can go with a cheaper case.

That $800 build can play pretty much any game on the market at 1080/60? Also, is there a good site to gauge what kind of performance a build will get you or is it mostly just from experience?

Edit: that 'bench' site in the OP is very helpful. 1070 is a goddamn beast
 

TheChaos0

Member
Thanks for all the replies!

920 might still be ok if not I recommend getting Xeon x5650, you buy off ebay around £45-£55 they are hex core beasts that overclock well.

Didn't think of Xeon. I'll keep a look out for one on eBay.

Any cooler recommendations for over clocking this thing?
 

liezryou

Member
d[-_-]b;215809750 said:
Thanks for the heads up. Gonna drop the GPU for now to save some cost, not doing any heavy duty gaming, just play league and using a 750Ti which I picked up from a Gaffer. Is the difference between the i7 6700k and i5 6600k not really worth the upgrade?
Unless you plan on doing really CPU intensive tasks (compiling programs, 3d rendering, video encoding, data mining, etc.), it's not worth the extra 100$
That $800 build can play pretty much any game on the market at 1080/60? Also, is there a good site to gauge what kind of performance a build will get you or is it mostly just from experience?
For the most part, yeah it can do 1080/60fps on most games high settings. If you have a little bit more room in the budget you can upgrade to a GTX1060 6GB which will run the majority of current games better then the RX480. However, if you are looking for somewhat future-proofing, the RX480 will probably beat the GTX1060 with more DX12 games coming out and driver optimization.
 

BumRush

Member
Unless you plan on doing really CPU intensive tasks (compiling programs, 3d rendering, video encoding, data mining, etc.), it's not worth the extra 100$

For the most part, yeah it can do 1080/60fps on most games high settings. If you have a little bit more room in the budget you can upgrade to a GTX1060 6GB which will run the majority of current games better then the RX480. However, if you are looking for somewhat future-proofing, the RX480 will probably beat the GTX1060 with more DX12 games coming out and driver optimization.

I am looking for future proofing and will be willing to spend up to $1000. Good thing is I have ~6 months before I NEED to do this. Anything coming around then I should possibly wait for?
 

liezryou

Member
I am looking for future proofing and will be willing to spend up to $1000. Good thing is I have ~6 months before I NEED to do this. Anything coming around then I should possibly wait for?

If you can wait 6 months, then i would wait for the new AMD Zen CPUs that are slated to be released early 2017. If what they claim is true and the price to performance is good, they may be superior to intel in sub 1k builds. At the very least they will cause a price drop in intel CPUs.

Also if your budget is up to 1000, I'd shoot for a GTX1070, not a RX480 or GTX1060.
 

Unkle

Member
Hi all,

Don't mean to be a burden in amidst all of the technical speak so I'll keep this brief.

Thinking about building my first PC and was wondering if anyone has any links to a good layman's guide about what it's all composed of and such. I know a little bit about computers but I want to learn more about the enthusiast side, gain some good knowledge, and be able to create my own system, maintain it, and get the best performance possible from its components.


I've bookmarked the videos in the OP about building the actual system but I'm looking for some decent tutorial videos explaining the components from a base level so I can begin the understand the whole rigmarole completely. Plus audio-only versions would be nice, too, so I can listen to them in work and study up!

Any help would be brilliant.
 

BumRush

Member
If you can wait 6 months, then i would wait for the new AMD Zen CPUs that are slated to be released early 2017. If what they claim is true and the price to performance is good, they may be superior to intel in sub 1k builds. At the very least they will cause a price drop in intel CPUs.

Also if your budget is up to 1000, I'd shoot for a GTX1070, not a RX480 or GTX1060.

I'll wait, thanks for your help. After doing a little research, I'll probably go with the 1070 as it would mean little upgrading for a. While (especially if I stay on 1080P)
 

fantomena

Member
It sounds as though your cooler isn't properly seated. 4GHz at 1.15v would only be too much for Intel's stock cooler, and I assume you're not using one as Intel doesn't bundle coolers with its enthusiast line. Most 5820Ks can handle 4.5GHz at 1.2~1.3v just fine, cooling permitting.

Im doing 4 ghz now with 1,13 volt, works fine.

What CPU cooler do you have? It should not be getting hot at those volts.

https://www.komplett.no/product/815...ng/cpu-luftkjoeling/noctua-nh-d15-cpu-kjoeler
 

BumRush

Member
Hi all,

Don't mean to be a burden in amidst all of the technical speak so I'll keep this brief.

Thinking about building my first PC and was wondering if anyone has any links to a good layman's guide about what it's all composed of and such. I know a little bit about computers but I want to learn more about the enthusiast side, gain some good knowledge, and be able to create my own system, maintain it, and get the best performance possible from its components.


I've bookmarked the videos in the OP about building the actual system but I'm looking for some decent tutorial videos explaining the components from a base level so I can begin the understand the whole rigmarole completely. Plus audio-only versions would be nice, too, so I can listen to them in work and study up!

Any help would be brilliant.

Awesome post. I'm in the same situation as you and I want this too lol
 

Remeard

Member
For somebody that's using the PC for light photo editing and not expecting 60fps/ultra gaming, is the i5 worth the extra $100?
 

LilJoka

Member
Looking for a decent MOBO that has 2400 mhz DDR4 slots without OC to go with my RAM. https://pcpartpicker.com/user/StrikeNinja24/saved/#view=JCNbt6

Not looking to overclock, looking for a red one to go with the theme but isn't a necessity.

Any ram over 2133mhz ddr4 is overclocked.
The manufacturer puts these overclock settings in an XMP profile which can be enabled to auto overclock the ram to its defined spec. And you need a Z170 board to do that.
 

TheSeks

Blinded by the luminous glory that is David Bowie's physical manifestation.
All SSDs are small. Some cases have 2.5" ssd slots. If yours doesn't, you can get a plastic slide in part called a 3.5" drive to 2.5" bay that lets you use the hdd slot to mount the ssd.

:/ I guess I could order the part but I figured I'd already return it. I'm not sure I'm comfortable with installing it and having it rattle around someplace in the case while waiting for that. Like putting the cable for the harddrives that are already there (the normal sized ones) is a pain in the ass and I figured I'd break the connector and I don't need that hassle right now.
 

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
:/ I guess I could order the part but I figured I'd already return it. I'm not sure I'm comfortable with installing it and having it rattle around someplace in the case while waiting for that. Like putting the cable for the harddrives that are already there (the normal sized ones) is a pain in the ass and I figured I'd break the connector and I don't need that hassle right now.

Since SSDs have no moving parts, there's nothing wrong with leaving them unsecured. You just don't want them dangling mid-air in case gravity causes a cable to come loose. Prior to buying a new case, I had my SSD sitting in the empty 5.25" drive bay area.
 

TheSeks

Blinded by the luminous glory that is David Bowie's physical manifestation.
Since SSDs have no moving parts, there's nothing wrong with leaving them unsecured. You just don't want them dangling mid-air in case gravity causes a cable comes loose.

Well that's the thing. Cables for the other two are interconnected, so I'd have to pretty much put it in the hard-drive bay and there's nothing there for it to "sit" on currently. I guess I could buy the part for it to sit on, but I've never actually installed these before and don't really feel comfortable with it.

Anyway, is B&H a decent seller? They have the 1060 in and I'm thinking of buying it so I can finally upgrade my GPU from the 760 to a 10XX.
 

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
Well that's the thing. Cables for the other two are interconnected, so I'd have to pretty much put it in the hard-drive bay and there's nothing there for it to "sit" on currently. I guess I could buy the part for it to sit on, but I've never actually installed these before and don't really feel comfortable with it.

Ah, right.

Anyway, is B&H a decent seller? They have the 1060 in and I'm thinking of buying it so I can finally upgrade my GPU from the 760 to a 10XX.

I imported my motherboard from B&H and had no issues.

is a 4790k @ 4.8 feasible for 1080 FTWs in SLI?

Yes.
 

Zoon

Member
I am thinking of getting a gtx 1060 since my 660ti just died.
Mobo: M5A97
CPU: FX-8150
RAM: 8GB
I know my cpu is a bit old but currently I can't afford a full upgrade.
Do you guys have any notes or other suggestions?
 

Karl2177

Member
So I'm looking at this right now. Changed up the memory speed to 3200 from 2400, went with a case that doesn't have 5.25" drives(because I don't need one), and switched up the 1080. I've never ordered from SuperBiiz before, so I'm not sure what to expect from them.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($324.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.49 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING/AURA ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($160.00 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($184.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.50 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($679.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT H440 (Glossy White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($108.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1709.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-03 15:30 EDT-0400
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
Tried google, but Im currently too stupid, so what does RAM mhz do exactly?

It's the frequency your memory works at, controlled independently of the cpu (at least for a while now, makes me miss the old days).

It's also the most motherboard dependent of the things you will overclock, heavily dependent on good traces and good clean energy to see large gains in.

Performance wise it's the last area you'll usually tweak to see gains and the most unstable once you hit its wall.

If you are not going to overclock, just look at your motherboards list of compatabile memory and line up the speed with your CPUs recommended one, all your settings will be default set correctly by the motherboard. If you are overclocking you'll want to spend extra time finding the exact memory your mobo will love.
 

LilJoka

Member
Motherboards will not impact potential ram speeds, unless the speed is over what is supported, unlikely scenario as most will do 3200+.
Even the cheapest z series boards will do 3000mhz with a decent CPU:
It is the CPU that is the limiting factor as when you OC the RAM, the Intel memory controller on board the CPU is also overclocked. The IMC is rated for 2133mhz on Skylake CPUs.
You can't predict how good your IMC will be, but most will run 3000mhz.
 

blanky

Member
Hi y'all

This community has helped me a lot building my first ever desktop and it still runs great to this day. However, it is getting old, having passed 5 years this summer. So with some upcoming games I'm wondering what my options are.

The main components are an i5 - 2500K, standard clock, 8 gb of ram and a 580 GTX. Can I get away with just getting a 1070x or something similar if I want to play say Dishonored 2, Forza Horizon 3 and battlefield 1? I'm playing only at 1080p nor am I looking to push everything to the edge, but it would be nice to get something more than medium.
 
Anybody have any idea if sli 1080 Zotac Amp Extremes is feasible in an NZXT Noctis 450 with an MSI M7 mb?

It's a mid tower case, and those amp extremes are 2.5 drive bays thick.
 

LilJoka

Member
Anybody have any idea if sli 1080 Zotac Amp Extremes is feasible in an NZXT Noctis 450 with an MSI M7 mb?

It's a mid tower case, and those amp extremes are 2.5 drive bays thick.

GPU Clearance with HDD Cage: 294mm
GPU Clearance without HDD Cage: 406.2mm

Zotac Amp Extreme GTX 1080 length: 325mm

It is 2.5 PCIE lanes thick, meaning the PCI slot below the GPU might be obstructed and unable to be used.

Looking at your board, that means one of the PCIE 4x slots will be unusable when the GPU is installed due to its overhang.
 

Black_Red

Member
You're using the wrong MSI Afterburner graphs. Turn off Voltage Limit and Utilization Limit, and instead turn on Power, % and GPU Usage, %. When you go into Settings then Monitoring, they are the first and third option from the top.

So, I just shouldnt care about those 2 graphs? (I was watching the other 2, but those looked normal to me).
 

Harpua

Member
Hi y'all

This community has helped me a lot building my first ever desktop and it still runs great to this day. However, it is getting old, having passed 5 years this summer. So with some upcoming games I'm wondering what my options are.

The main components are an i5 - 2500K, standard clock, 8 gb of ram and a 580 GTX. Can I get away with just getting a 1070x or something similar if I want to play say Dishonored 2, Forza Horizon 3 and battlefield 1? I'm playing only at 1080p nor am I looking to push everything to the edge, but it would be nice to get something more than medium.

I came from the exact same setup, except my 2500k is OC to 4.5 ghz. Overclock it and buy a 1070 and you will be in heaven. I moved up to a 1440p and can max out just about everything so you'll have no trouble with 1080p.
 
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